This is a godsend. I just the other day broke my nozzle in the hot end and ended up not being able to get it out at all. I have a new part arriving in a few hours and I thought I'd have to do a bunch of rewiring which I've never done. But now I know I can just change over the heater and thermostat thingi and not have to worry about figuring out how motherboards work lol. Thank you once again for eliminating alot of stress
When fitting Bowden tubing I use a wrap of rough sandpaper to grip the tube and get some purchase on it, that PTFE is slick so having a good grip on it helps to make sure you have a good union between the tube and the heat break or if you have a standard hot end the nozzle.
you explain everything very well! but it's going very quick. I had to remove some of the filament blob that cumulated on my heat block before I could remove the heater and the thermometer. I broke the thermometer sadly so I just replaced all wiring all together. and i'm gonna try out some 0.25 mm nozzles that I bought for the first time! this seems like the perfect time to test that
Sorry about the speed. Unfortunately, as RUclips creators, we are punished by the algorithm (that dictates who gets shown our videos) if we leave gaps or have longer videos. This means everything tends to get a little condensed to try and keep people's attention. Hopefully all of the information is here and you are able to pause in places of re-watch sections to not miss parts. Using a smaller nozzle can really help with getting higher details on prints just don't forget to change your slicer settings so that it knows what nozzle size you are using.
I pulled the thermistor wires while cold. They'both insulated in the loom but is it possible to re install them tied together in the new hot end without that insulation? My real question is are they supposed to be tied together? I'm trained in electronics but don't know how this stuff really works. TIA!
I recently had a blob, and the wires to my hotend broke. i was going to replace it, but i found out that the screws to the hot end were jammed with plastic. should i just replace my extruder?
PSA... my brand new hotend started smoking when i preheated it. It stopped after a few minutes; sounds like this is fairly common and its the manufacturing oils left over being burnt off.
There is no quick simple solution unfortunately. Carefully drilling or using something like an easy-out tool is an option but it's very likely you'll damage the thermistor unfortunately. Did you heat the whole thing up first? They shouldn't be anywhere near tight enough to round off.
Yeah heated up but I'll see how I go, I'll pick up some extractor screw bits and take it from there. Worst case I replace the cables and learn a bit more about the assembly of my machine in the process 🤷♂️ cheers for the response and informative videos 🤙
@@RickyImpeyI have this exact problem, but on my new out-the-box hot end. From the manufacturer, the black screw on the thermistor is so tight in, I can’t unscrew it without stripping it.
Hello! I have the ender 3 v2. Having issues with it... it stops extruding after about 40 minutes, seeming to be at a certain z height.... I cleaned the nozzle and tried a different print to no avail....help! No idea what to do :( I just finished printing a lot of pieces too that turned out fine and all of a sudden it just stopped working like usual.
@@RickyImpey hi! No errors. It will get super sparse and then will have some good solid layers, then will get sparse again until it stops. It will keep moving as if it's printing. I got 8 hours in on a print and noticed it was still "printing" but many layers above the print, not extruding anything. I've put a new nozzle on and trammed the bed. Got the Capricorn tube and a cr touch(used your videos to get it right). I'm using ender pla+, temp at 205 and bed at 60. I've played around with the temps at 200 and 210, bed temp at 50. I calibrated the e steps(it was only extruding 85mm, now it's at 100mm) but nothing is seeming to work. Before the above mentioned print, I printed both a CHEP cube and a CaliCat...both turned out perfect. I'm almost thinking my printing doesnt do well with prints that have supports?
@@thealterrazero It sounds like you either have a clog (which it sounds like you may have ruled out) or perhaps your extruder has an issue. Is there anything restricting the filament at the height when it starts to under-extrude?
@@RickyImpey not that I'm noticing. The filament is on a rack just above and feeds into the whole system. I'm thinking it's just clogging every so often and resolving and re clogging? Is there something that could be causing a clog on larger prints but not something small as a calibration cube and cat? Could it be a setting in cura that I need to fix up?
@@thealterrazero clogging is just unmelted filament somewhere causing a blockage. The most likely causes is low temperatures at some point, remnants of a higher temperature filament that hasn't been fully cleaned out or filament melting and then cooling somewhere it shouldn't. Checking your PID tune and cleaning everything out should cure any clogging. Could you have a cracked extruder lever?
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This is a godsend. I just the other day broke my nozzle in the hot end and ended up not being able to get it out at all. I have a new part arriving in a few hours and I thought I'd have to do a bunch of rewiring which I've never done. But now I know I can just change over the heater and thermostat thingi and not have to worry about figuring out how motherboards work lol.
Thank you once again for eliminating alot of stress
Glad to help👍
hands down the best 3d printing channel around
Thanks for making this. I just got a new spider hotend for my Ender 3 v2. Planning on putting it on this weekend.
Great video. Short and to the point and informative
Wow, thanks Ricky! This was really straightforward and got me to do what I needed to do quickly. Definitely subbing.
When fitting Bowden tubing I use a wrap of rough sandpaper to grip the tube and get some purchase on it, that PTFE is slick so having a good grip on it helps to make sure you have a good union between the tube and the heat break or if you have a standard hot end the nozzle.
Thanks mam helped me figure out a good way to do it without damaging anything
He ran through that like he was double parked.
I meaning feel like he was incredibly thorough
you explain everything very well! but it's going very quick. I had to remove some of the filament blob that cumulated on my heat block before I could remove the heater and the thermometer.
I broke the thermometer sadly so I just replaced all wiring all together.
and i'm gonna try out some 0.25 mm nozzles that I bought for the first time! this seems like the perfect time to test that
Sorry about the speed. Unfortunately, as RUclips creators, we are punished by the algorithm (that dictates who gets shown our videos) if we leave gaps or have longer videos. This means everything tends to get a little condensed to try and keep people's attention. Hopefully all of the information is here and you are able to pause in places of re-watch sections to not miss parts. Using a smaller nozzle can really help with getting higher details on prints just don't forget to change your slicer settings so that it knows what nozzle size you are using.
Thanks
You’re the goat bro thank you
Been looking for this exact video. Instant like and sub.
This would be the perfect opportunity for installing Luke Hatfields hotend fix!
I actually don't use that mod any longer. I did and it worked but now I use this method and find it's no longer necessary for me.
THANK YOU
I pulled the thermistor wires while cold. They'both insulated in the loom but is it possible to re install them tied together in the new hot end without that insulation? My real question is are they supposed to be tied together? I'm trained in electronics but don't know how this stuff really works. TIA!
Collar thing is stuck. Any tips how to get it off without damaging anything?
I recently had a blob, and the wires to my hotend broke. i was going to replace it, but i found out that the screws to the hot end were jammed with plastic. should i just replace my extruder?
Im getting heat creep where the prints are very weak and Im getting under extrusion, should I replace the thermistor as well as the hot end?
wow evry day you are upgrading you videos can you start uploding videos about klipper i started using if from a week now and it's relly usfel tool
Sounds awesome! I'm still on the fence about whether I need one or not.
I do plan to do a series of Klipper videos soon, stay tuned.
@@RickyImpey i think that you forget to menshen that changin all hot end to some ting else requari a new pid tune righ
@@HumamZaki Sure, if you change to a different type then you'll need to do a new PID tune but if it's the same then it might not need doing.
PSA... my brand new hotend started smoking when i preheated it. It stopped after a few minutes; sounds like this is fairly common and its the manufacturing oils left over being burnt off.
My printer has no screws to remove the wire easily 💀 looks like i need to figure out how to unplug the wired from the mother board witjout damaging it
do i need to have it heated when i replace it?
My Ender NEO doesn't have the screws at the right place you haven't shown anything
What do you do if the little black hex screw for the cords just strips itself when you try to undo it? 😅 Will I need to try and drill it out?
There is no quick simple solution unfortunately. Carefully drilling or using something like an easy-out tool is an option but it's very likely you'll damage the thermistor unfortunately. Did you heat the whole thing up first? They shouldn't be anywhere near tight enough to round off.
Yeah heated up but I'll see how I go, I'll pick up some extractor screw bits and take it from there. Worst case I replace the cables and learn a bit more about the assembly of my machine in the process 🤷♂️ cheers for the response and informative videos 🤙
@@RickyImpeyI have this exact problem, but on my new out-the-box hot end. From the manufacturer, the black screw on the thermistor is so tight in, I can’t unscrew it without stripping it.
@camb06 return it if you can, it has been assembled wrong and will likely either not work or fail early because of the incorrect assembly.
Hello! I have the ender 3 v2. Having issues with it... it stops extruding after about 40 minutes, seeming to be at a certain z height.... I cleaned the nozzle and tried a different print to no avail....help! No idea what to do :( I just finished printing a lot of pieces too that turned out fine and all of a sudden it just stopped working like usual.
When it stops, do you get any errors or does it just act like it's finished correctly? Does the nozzle finish in the same location for instance?
@@RickyImpey hi! No errors. It will get super sparse and then will have some good solid layers, then will get sparse again until it stops. It will keep moving as if it's printing. I got 8 hours in on a print and noticed it was still "printing" but many layers above the print, not extruding anything. I've put a new nozzle on and trammed the bed. Got the Capricorn tube and a cr touch(used your videos to get it right). I'm using ender pla+, temp at 205 and bed at 60. I've played around with the temps at 200 and 210, bed temp at 50. I calibrated the e steps(it was only extruding 85mm, now it's at 100mm) but nothing is seeming to work. Before the above mentioned print, I printed both a CHEP cube and a CaliCat...both turned out perfect. I'm almost thinking my printing doesnt do well with prints that have supports?
@@thealterrazero It sounds like you either have a clog (which it sounds like you may have ruled out) or perhaps your extruder has an issue. Is there anything restricting the filament at the height when it starts to under-extrude?
@@RickyImpey not that I'm noticing. The filament is on a rack just above and feeds into the whole system. I'm thinking it's just clogging every so often and resolving and re clogging? Is there something that could be causing a clog on larger prints but not something small as a calibration cube and cat? Could it be a setting in cura that I need to fix up?
@@thealterrazero clogging is just unmelted filament somewhere causing a blockage. The most likely causes is low temperatures at some point, remnants of a higher temperature filament that hasn't been fully cleaned out or filament melting and then cooling somewhere it shouldn't. Checking your PID tune and cleaning everything out should cure any clogging. Could you have a cracked extruder lever?
i am physically unable to remove my nozzle
...and do a nozzle heater PID autotune afterwords.
Terrible