Hi Chuck. You missed an important step: Reset your Z-offset (Nozzle offset from probe). Since nozzles will not always end up in the exact same position, it is a very important to prevent damage and have an accurate offset. Great video! Much more help than the Slice Engineering Q-code
Let me start by saying I have been running straight Capricorn tubing and have never had a failed print due to a clogged nozzle. I thought I needed this so I bought the Slice heat break and installed it yesterday. Used my standard slicer settings in Cura and the print failed due to a clogged nozzle in about an hour. Today I changed the retraction distance and minimum extrusion distance window to 3mm. Default is 5mm. The print made it several hours but failed again due to a clogged nozzle. The Slice heat break was removed and I am back to printing with the original set up. Wished I would have read more of the reviews before I bought this. Can't wait for my Prusa MK3S+ to get here.
@@FilamentFriday Yes. I heated the hot end up, cleaned out the threads by threading the nozzle and head break in and out. I made sure that the nozzle and the end of heat break had solid contact. Thanks for all of your content CHEP.
I made the mistake of buying the mellow bi-metal heatbreak, their design is not great because they don't have it setup so you can easily slot your filament down into the tip of it, so it winds up jamming up whenever I try to swap out my filament on my Ender 3. The only solution that even remotely has worked for me was to take the ptfe tube out of the coupler going down into the hot end, feeding the filament through and then hitting it with a lighter to soften up the tip so I could stretch it to a fine point, which I am then able to fit down into the tube inside the heatbreak. I'm tired of following this process so I just ordered the copperhead c-e bimetal heat break based on your recommendation Chuck. Thanks for posting great informative videos to help folks out.
Great to see this reviewed. I liked it a lot after installation, it really improved experience with PETG, Colorfabb NGEN etc, but I struggled to get the ideal retraction. In the end e3d were doing a sale on Titan extruders, so I turned my ender max into direct drive, and changed retraction to 1mm and tuned the esteps manually. This seems to have improved things a lot - literally zero stringing, no artefacts on Benchys etc. And PETG still printing great.
Hi Chuck, thanks for making this video, after watching this I concluded the heat break was a better option for me than going with an all-metal hot end. I did run into a few issues with the installation on my Ender 3 Pro, related to the heat break being longer than the stock one and pushing the nozzle lower; sharing in case others are in the same position: - The M3x16 bolts that go through the bottom of the hot block and into the heat sink are now too short - I asked Slice about this and they recommend just using the grub screw to attach the hot block to the rest of the assembly - I had to shim my CR Touch with a few washers between it and the bracket, because the nozzle was now below the probe - The part fan is now blocked by the hot block, so I quickly remixed a longer shroud to account for it; it's part - 369993 on Printables
I see no mention of retraction distance or speed with adding this new heat break. Can you please update with info on if the standard retraction 6.5mm is too much or not. Or if it need to be reduced.
Works great. Just don't forget to adjust your retraction!!!! I was banging my head trying to figure out why I was getting stringing, clogs, and binding,. Duhhhhhh the filament is not as deep inside hot end anymore. I had to drop my retraction down to 3 from 5.5 to get it to start acting right to be able to do a heat tower then retraction tower.
i've had some frustration with this heatbreak clogging on my ender3. it works awesome if you make no mistakes and operate your printer flawlessly. but certain common mistakes seem to easily clog it - filament runout, or leaving the heat on for awhile after swapping filament, or leaving the heat on if you left it for a second to warm up while you do another task, or even if you leave the heat on for a bit to re-level. even with good thermal pasting and the heatbreak fan running the whole time. these are all things that happen to me at least once in awhile, and recovery is fairly laborious... a complete hotend disassembly, and possibly a ruined heatbreak. i tried clearing the clog by heating to 260 for awhile and trying to push the clog out with a 1.5mm allen key, or an accupuncture needle from the nozzle side, and it just wouldn't budge. as a last ditch i disassembled, removed the heat break, and torched it and then finally was able to remove the pla clog. heh the bimetal kinda works TOO good. i may have ruined it by torching... but so far it seems to be printing ok again. i've read about others having clogging issues with this heatbreak also. i wonder if this is what inspired your recent heat creep video. i know you have had a lot of issues with the design with ptfe down to the nozzle, but frankly so far this bimetal thing has caused more show-stopping issues for me than ptfe-to-nozzle ever did, and i'll probably go back to that (or upgrade to a v6 hotend). it might be that the printer i use this in is kinda full time pla, i don't really do petg or abs on it... perhaps those are not as finicky with this heatbreak, which is kinda counter-intuitive.
@@losangelesrccrawlers3738 it hasn’t happened in awhile. maybe i’ve not made any mistakes in months (seems unlikely). i think i heard heatbreaks can be take some run-in to season like some people say with their build plate (i’ve never really studied but i’ve heard some build surfaces work better after some use)
I ordered one yesterday before watching this video. I noticed some strange stringing I never had in my past prints. I removed the fan cover and a big petg blob was all over the hotend! After removing the goo and disassembling the complete hotend, I found that the original heatbreak was cracked. Ordered a new hotend and a bi-metal heatbreak. Didn't want to go for an all metal hotend from micro swiss. The original fullfills all my needs and I think it will not give me more benefits.
I did this and am having endless heat creep jams where the filament slows down but doesn't stop all the way leading to underextrusion. I've done everything I can think of and research about to stop this from happening.
@@FilamentFriday I had replaced the fan with a new one from creality (24V) as the old one had developed bad bearings. I have replaced my part cooling solution with the thingiverse thing# 3468243 sans fan guard but the problem persisted before changing the cooling. I also have the dual gear extruder (tuned e-steps), new ptfe tubing, and a hardened nozzle for abrasives. Hotend temperatures remain steady so it's not a PID issue and I used thermal paste between the heatsink and the cold end of the heatbreak. I have also tried setting retractions to 1mm without improvement. I am able to manually push filament out past the section where it swells up in the heatsink so I know i'm not dealing with swollen and stuck filament at the beginning of a print. No swarf clogs either. I have tried PLA and PETG from different brands. When I start the printer after a failed print and manually extrude it takes a 20-30 seconds of extrusion and stepper slip (not extruder slip) to clear the swollen section of filament from the cold section before the filament flows smoothly again. Yes I am using the slice engineering heatbreak you link to.
@@frits183 I just gave up on that solution and upgraded to a Hemera Revo. It is by nature all metal and they will soon be releasing hardened nozzles for abrasives too.
Thank you for this! I just installed one last night and this video helped sell me on it. Your instructions helped because I couldn't find any on Slice's website, LOL I just found your video on the ABS corners. I'm about to try printing that for the first time.
Hello Everyone Great Video CHEP I just did this upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro run my first print with the upgrade and it looking great NOTE BLTOUCH USERS RESET AND ADJUSTS YOUR Z-OFFSET that is all thanks again for the great video I will be doing with to my NON PRO Ender 3 tomorrow.
Another mod for my Ender 3s thanks to CHEP. I added this on my Ender 3 with the BGM style direct drive and so far so good. I’ll be ordering a second one for other Ender 3, and probably convert that one to direct drive as well (I had the parts for nearly a year but have been too busy printing to stop and upgrade it). Thanks for all your great videos and profiles!
Chuck, love all your Friday episodes. After watching this one, I went ahead with a hot end upgrade. Now a couple of frustrating weeks later, I think I am about the same print quality I had with a PTFE tube to the nozzle. I've watched other all metal hot end upgrade videos. It'd be nice if anyone mentioned potential issues with all metal hot end. Like stringing, blobs, and clogs. Cause it's been a pain. My 2 cents. You can leave them on the Take a penny, Leave a penny jar.
Two weeks with a filament oiler installed and you will never have a problem again,I almost bought the internet BS till I tried it and was blown away. I went from constant jams,and failed prints to never having a malfunction since. Just try it and thank me later
I put one on yesterday and it does seem to help a whole lot. One thing I noticed was blobs of what kind of looks like burned oil and plastic on the print. It didn't seem to really hurt the quality at all, it just looks unclean. Possibly I put a little too much oil on the sponge, or maybe I need to run it hotter until the tube is fully cured? If you have a tip on that I would be grateful. I'm already much more happy with it than I was 2 days ago when I almost switched back to the stock tube, before I saw your tip.
3 года назад+1
@CHEP, why do you install the nozzle first??? This is not how the manufacturer's (Slice Engineering) instruction describe and this is also error prone. The proper way is to screw in the heatbreak first, until the top of the lower thread of the heatbreak are flush with the top of the heatblock. This ensures that the heatbreak is screwed-in deep enough that the MK8 nozzle *will* bump into it prior the MK8 nozzle shoulder bumps to the bottom of the heatblock...
I bought the Slice Engineering heat break after seeing this video. I tried it right away and my print quality dropped considerably. I went back to stock Creality setup and the print quality was back up to the quality I expected. Yesterday, I had to replace me fan motor so I decided to try it again while I had it apart. I put the Slice heat break in with a brand new Microswiss M2 nozzle that I bought at MRRF this year and reassembled it and again it prints like crap. I had re-leveled the bed. Tried slicing a quick print in the latest Cura and Simplify 3D and 2 different rolls of PLA filament. For some reason, whenever I stray away from the stock Creality setup, print quality goes down the toilet. Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Printed PETG at 230°C for a few hours daily for a week and noticed the extruder starting to skip steps, the infamous clicking issue on Ender 3 style printers. I pulled out the PTFE liner and it was burned severly and obviously was on the best way to clog up completely. Now I ordered the Bi-Metal heatbrake from Slice Engineering to cheaply convert to an all metal hotend and I will see if this eliminates this problem.
I just installed this upgrade last night. With the stock heat break I was able to peak at 9.62 mm³/s flow rate and now I'm reliably at 16.84 mm³/s. The main mod I did was mounting the stock Ender 3 extruder with the SpeedDrive direct drive mount on thingiverse.
I'm running a titanium version of the heat break on mine. I took a chance on it and it works great. One of the draw backs is I have to do a cold pull after every print otherwise it will jam the next print if it cools down
This is why you want to avoid buying cheap heat breaks. It's one of the most critical parts of the machine, and it has to be machined really well and be designed properly. Either that or hotend cooling situation is not very good. Having to do a cold pull every print isn't a sign of a properly working hotend.
I just did this mod to me Ender 3 V2 and let me tell you it was not easy to unscrew the stock heat break from the hot end. I had the hot end set up like you in vice grips, but even when heated to 240C I couldn't budge it with needle nose pliers. The stock heat break seems like hardened steel. Finally was able to remove it with a small pipe wrench lol.
This was possibly the single best upgrade I made to my Ender 3s. I absolutely hate the design having the ptfe tube butt up to the nozzle, it caused so many issues. As soon as I swapped to these those issues have completely disappeared.
That was probably a different problem. Since most people are printing with Bowden tubes perfectly fine. I've had zero issues with my Bowden tube. Even before I upgraded it to a Capricorn tube. Only reason I'm getting the all metal hot end is to print at higher temps.
@@dangerous8333 I wouldn't say that's the only reason. Changing nozzles is easier too since you don't have to go through extra steps to ensure the PTFE tube is butted up against the nozzle.
Can you do a video on putting a ender 3 v2 in a encloser? I’m worried about the power supply getting to hot. I have no idea how to relocate it outside of the encloser
Man I've been having a lot of problems with this thing. I I just can't get through a full PLA print without a clunking extruder and clogged nozzle. I'm pretty confident I installed it correctly but I think my base model ender 3 fan setup just isn't cutting it. I set my nozzle to 210C and used a meat thermometer (not sure how accurate this is in a hot end) and measured 52C where the Bowden tube ends and over 60C in the narrow tube going to the heat block. Manually pointing a 5015 fan at the hot end lowered these temps 15-17C. I'm also aware that retraction tuning is pretty important in metal hot ends, but my benchy with only 1.5mm of retraction started clunking an hour in. This was at only 185C. If anyone has suggestions or a similar experience with the base model Ender 3 and this part I'd love to hear about it. I have a supposedly better hot end fan coming tomorrow. I do believe this is a well engineered, well built component but I'm about ready to ditch it for the stock setup with a capricorn tube. I'll edit this comment if I can get it working. EDIT: Well, I hit a major SNAFU. The new fan performed the same as stock so I decided to rebuild the hot end and make sure I used enough thermal paste around the heat break. I managed to break the nozzle with the copperhead still attached, leaving my $30 heat break fixed to a useless heat block. I might try to extract the nozzle but I'm leaning toward just throwing my Ender into the nearest river.
Hello Everyone Great Video CHEP I did this upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro running prints with the upgrade and they looking great NOTE BLTOUCH USERS RESET AND ADJUSTS YOUR Z-OFFSET I personally also readjusted my E-Step also again great video CHEP
@@AkiraFurball Wow. lol Well first off I said I personally readjusted my E-Step I didn't say that it was 100% needed. I am glad that you seem to be able to use the defaults on your creality printers but with the changes I have personally made to include the one in the video I personally decided to run some calibration test after making this upgrade and came the personally decision that I needed to adjust my E-Step because I personally saw a change in how much easier and smoother the extruder was able to push the filament through after this upgrade. I would be very interested in CHEP thoughts on this.
Chuck, After installing this heat break, did you have to adjust your retraction settings? Some have recommended reducing to 1mm to avoid clogging. I currently use 6-6½mm on my E3Pro with the stock hot end depending on filament.
Hi Chuck, I really enjoyed your videos, i purchased the HB from Slice however I noticed that the nozzle goes in 21/2 turns. Should i relevel and change Z offset?
The heating block for this has dimensions that I can't match to any silicone socks in the marketplace. Why didn't they use the standard heating block? Seems the only way to get a silicone sock for this is to buy another hotend kit.
Hey Chep. New to 3d printing and new to the channel which is fantastic I must add. Your descriptions and walkthroughs are perfect. I've just purchased one of these for my newly acquired CR10s pro v2, and, just now have purchased a micro Swiss nozzle to accompany it. I hope it'll be a good combo which will minimise clogs amd the such. Keep up the good work 👏
If you screw it on just right you can use it with bl touch. I screwed the heatbreak so it was flush with the heatblock but I would recommend going 1/2 or 1/4 turns back from it to make more room. I was left with .5mm z offset. As long as you put the bed clips in strategic spots (if you have the low profile ones to go with the creality glass bed). If you don't check the bed clips you can have the print hit them causing G112 error.
I used the bi metal heat break from TH3D and hate it. It was shorter than the original ender 3 and cause my parts cooling fan to hand below the nozzle even though that was the one for the ender 3. I ended up going back to stock. I may give this slice engineering one a try.
I got extremely worried for a minute after i installed the heat break. I also noticed it is to tall for the cr touch. I did the auto level and adjust my z off set. Then i had to go to work. Guess just have to keep on it when i print just in case if i have to change the z offset. That would have been a nice tidbit of info to have. Very glad after came back to read the comments to see if i was the only one having that issue. Do they make some kind of back plate or something to make it higher up?
Great video, I just bought this for my Ender 3 Max. Question I have, do you need to do a PID autotune after installing this? How is that done on an Ender? Thanks much.
Chuck, thank you for all your videos. I installed this upgrade. The printer printed fine once. I tried the 2nd print and it was plugged . The extruded was tapping. I could not clear the plug until I pulled the hot end apart an used a small drill to clear the plastic in the heat breaker. After I got it clear I tried again and the printer plugged again after on successful print. I am printing pre foamed Lw pla to print airplanes. This material is a little coarse. Just wondering if you have any idea how I can fix this. You’re a busy man so I understand if you don’t get time to respond. You have really helped my 3d printing with your videos
I order one 2 days ago for my Ender Max as soon it get here i'll change the tubing for capricorn and i'm going to install belt tension upgrade after i'm thinking about the dual z upgrade, have you find something for using a touch screen on the max ? 😉 great videos and thank you
I installed this heat break on my Ender 3. In order to print high temp materials like PC or Nylon, do you think it's necessary to upgrade my heater block, thermistor, or heater cartridge? So far I've been printing ASA successfully but I'm curious about printing PC.
I'm considering between this and the V6 hotend. However, this one doesn't provide an extra thermistor or heating cartridge, so could I ask if the stock one can withstand up to around 285-300 degree celsius for high temperature printing (safely)? Thanks :)
If the slice engineering is too expensive a all metal throat can be had from the usual Chinese supplier for maybe 8 bucks a piece. I deal with clogging by burning cooking oil inside the filament path before installing it.
I am thinking about upgrading the stock hot end on my Ender 3 v2 to be able to print with higher temperatures (for ASA). But I have heard that the heating cartridge and thermistor wires are also insulated with PTFE. Should I worry that gassing will occur on those parts or should it be safe?
it's a shame not to take advantage of this modification to try to raise the temperature and print nylon at 300 ° by modifying the ender. Is it possible ? could you make a video on it? it would be great to print nylon carbon on an ender
Hello, Mr. Chep. After watching this video, I bought the Slice Engineering Copperhead Heat-break model C-E for the Ender 3, I got the same problem as Bek. After about 2 prints, it jammed on me. I had not changed any settings yet from when I was using the Luke Hatfield modified fix, that had been working great for about 20 prints, and only stopped when I switched to the Copperhead heat-break. My guess is that the settings in Cura need some tweaking, and not skilled enough yet in Cura to know what they are. (There are a lot of them.) What settings do you use for the Copperhead and why? I am currently testing settings out myself, and would like to trade results.
The only two settings that have had an effect on clogs for me with the Copperhead C-E are changing the retraction distance from 5mm to 2-3mm, and retractions speed from 45mm/s to 25-35mm/s. I am still getting clogs and jams, but at least not nearly as often with these settings. So, at least I can do small prints, and clear the jams on the fails. I have recently dropped the settings from 3mm, 35mm/s to the new settings of 2mm, 25mm/s, and have not had a jam since the 2mm, 25mm/s changes, about 1 day so far.
The purpose of the heat sink is to draw heat away from the heat break top section so filament won’t preheat and expand. Thermal paste helps that process.
Thank you for this addition, for my adventure into using PETG. And, who knows, I might get brave and try ABS. I have functional parts tgat I made in PLA, and they did not 'weather well'; so I am hoping a material change will improve those.
FYI. The link lands on a page WITHOUTH just the heatbreak. I think they are trying to upsell through confusion. Might be a conversation you want to have with them ;)
I upgraded to a better hotend only to have the heatbreak disconnect from the heater block and leak without noticing I wish they would have kept the screws from heat block to heat sink
Just bought this heat break and installed it last night. Although I print primarily PLA, I thought this would be handy if I chose to print with other materials. However, after installed this my print quality went way South. I've re-leveled the bed, tried different temps and retraction settings. Pretty disappointing for printing PLA. I'll be switching back to my original setup.
I think i have the same problem. The quality is not so good. I have stringing issues and i can't adjust the retraction distance because at more than 3.5mm the hot end gets clogged. So i'll try to use the oil dispenser trick. If it doesn't work, i'll be switching back to the original setup too.
@@facundogomez4892 Did you ever get it working right? I'm having similar issues with under extrusion (possibly because of clogging) when doing a lot of retraction after the upgrade.
@@AndyDillbeck Yes, i managed to make it work reducing the retration distance at 1.6, retraction speed at 40 and increasing noozle's temperature at 215°C. I reinstalled the bi-metal and the noozle tighter, so i't doesn't loose material, and i installed a new aluminum extrusor, wich took me some time to adjust it right. The problem is that there is stringing (looks like you have to accept it for pla and bi-metal), but there is no clogging and It worked continuously since then.
I just got a cheap one off ebay which looks like brass with a stainless threaded part down the bottom. It has only about 5mm space for the PTFE tube to go into it, which is much much less than the Slice Engineering model you've got here. I wonder if that's a good thing....
Chep thank you!! I have a question, will it work with nylon and or the carbon fiber nylon, and is the part as good as the all metal micro Swiss hot end ? Thank you again for all your videos and your time and knowledge!! Hope today finds you smiling!!
I bought one of these from your link to Slice, and it seemed to work really well for printing ABS, but I'm having a heck of a time getting the PLA to print, with lots of under extrusion and the extruder gears doing some kind of backlash. I suspect it might have to do with retraction, but I'm just having issues with it. Any videos or suggestions as to how to get it dialed in correctly? I'm hoping I don't have to switch back to the old one. Before the switch on the stock ender 3 I was had the hot end at 200c, 5mm retraction, basically all the stock settings. Now I've upped the temperature to 210, which does seem to have helped, but not solved all the issues.
100% the best first upgrade you could do to these printers. Probably the most common issue new users have is clogs because the PTFE isn't sealed well against the nozzle, an all metal heatbreak solves this issue.
Great video! I already ordered mine for an upgrade. I have a question. I plan on buying a new stock hot end for this. Should I heat up the heater block to install it or can I do it cold? Thanks!
Hi Chuck I have been running my Slice engineering Heartbreak for about five months now with Pla/Petg. I want to print Asa next but I have been warned that the thermistor is PTFE lined , should I replace it or is that not the case ? If so, is there a thermistor without a PTFE isolator ?
@@FilamentFriday From what I can tell, the small glass-bead style thermistors do have ptfe liners the first 1inch or so. In this case, without also upgrading the thermistor, we haven't completely solved the pesky ptfe problem. Let us know why you think otherwise.
I mis-understood the question. If you are concerned about the insulation on the thermistor, then upgrading to the slice engineering heat block and sensor is an option. A lot depends on what temp you are running your ASA.
Hi Chuck, while watching your video to install my new heat sink, i noticed you don't have the rubber shroud around the heat block. Is it necessary to have that on, I trimmed the pointy part off to make easer to change the nozzle.
Hi Chuck, I purchased the Bi-metal heat break for my Ender 3 v2 Neo. After I started putting together everything (based off your video) I found that the heat break does not fit into my heatsink. Do you have a recommendation on a new heatsink that will work with my Ender 3 V2 Neo?
The PTFE went all the way thru to the nozzle on the first heat break so the temp was whatever the nozzle temp was. So at 250° C the temp on the end of the PTFE was 250°C.
Mr.Chep after this video I actually bought bi-metal hot end. but it keeps clogging i don't know why. I use your cura 4.11 profile i have tried different temperature and retractions but the it didn't work well and also messed up the prints. Could you give some advice what to do? My bi-metal hotend is not the same brand but the size and everything is the same
As I described in the video, the clones are not the same. They aren’t built the same or polished the same. It’s defective. It’s why I recommended the Slice Engineering Heat Break.
@@FilamentFriday sadly i am having constant clogging and subsequent under extrusion, I’ve been in contact with Slice this morning and according to the gentleman I spoke with I’m Having a known common issue. Right now they aren’t recommending printing with pla while using the C-E heat break. Pretty bummed.
Sorry if this has already been asked but quick question. Does this mod work on an older Ender 3 pro as well? I presume that it still uses the same Creality hot end so yes but want to double check before ordering. I have PTEG and upgraded Bowden tubing but this sounds like it would be great to have to ensure PTEG comes out looking great. Thoughts? Thank you in advance
Hi, I need help. I bought 2 Copperhead Heat Break from Slice Engineering for my Ender 3 and Ender 3 pro. After installation on both machines. The PLA does not come out? I put both machines at Temperature of 205 and I even increase to 220. On one machine a little bit of the PLA was coming out. What am I doing wrong?
Hello CHEP what tool did you use to measure the tubing? And if you have a link that would be great! I want to make sure I have all the right tools to work on my 3D Printer so any others you want to throw at me would also be great. Thank you for the videos and the help!!!
I just ordered this parts from Slice Engineering, but I forgot to add the thermal paste and I don’t want to repay the shipping costs for a 2nd order. Can I get away with using a computer thermal paste instead? I’m only going to be printing in PLA+ and maybe PETG.
I hv trouble dismantling the original heat break the printer comes with and when I finally managed to take it off, the new bi metal heat break I put in got stuck half-way in and I am not able to turn it by hand. There were black burnt residue inside on the threads of the heat block and I couldn't take them off completely before I screw in the new heat break. Any help as to how to continue tighten or remove the new heat break? I havent try turning it using hand tools to avoid damaging the bi-metal heat break
I reddit for some suggestions as well and finally managed to removed the stuck heat break while heating the heat block at 245C and twist the heat break abit with a plier and finishing the rest twisting by hand with a leather glove. Got a bit of a scratch on the surface of the heat break hopefully no further damage done. The heat block I wasnt able to remove most of the residue on the threads, so I ended up ordering a new heat block. Should make installation easier.
Have you noticed any problems with this when trying to re-advance PLA to the nozzle after a retraction of a few cm? I had some issues with that (causing under-extrusion) when trying out a prototype metal/ceramic hybrid heatbreak which was designed to do the same thing (although it worked just fine otherwise). This is because the PLA is a bit malleable when it leaves the hot area and can distort so, when you re-advance it, it gets stuck on the rigid metal lumen (whereas the PTFE has some 'give' in it). Probably won't be an issue with ABS.
this will come down to machining tolerances of that bore in the heat break and what ptfe tubing your using. if there is a substantial difference in diameter you might have an issue. slice is pretty good with that though I doubt you will have an issue with them. well polished and machined tight. A lesser copycat might give you some grief.
Love chep, but can’t support Slice Engineering as a company. They didn’t deserve their patent on the mosquito and they have gone after small companies (like so small that they are operating out of their garage) for selling similar products.
I see mixed comments about using this with PLA. Have you used it with more than the CHEP cubes, and what was your experience? I really want to do this as it seems like a great design, but I don't want to end up with jams like some have said they get.
Hi Chuck. You missed an important step: Reset your Z-offset (Nozzle offset from probe). Since nozzles will not always end up in the exact same position, it is a very important to prevent damage and have an accurate offset. Great video! Much more help than the Slice Engineering Q-code
Also run pid
I’ve heard you should season this. What say ye?
What about e steps?
@@andycrighto3740 Well theoretically possible the change in E steps shouldn't be that high so there's a good change you wouldn't notice it.
You are a life saver chep. On this summer i started printing since then you have been great tutor. Thank you so much Mr.Chep
I have this one on my printer for about 200 hours, and its great so far. Nice to see you recommending it.
Let me start by saying I have been running straight Capricorn tubing and have never had a failed print due to a clogged nozzle. I thought I needed this so I bought the Slice heat break and installed it yesterday. Used my standard slicer settings in Cura and the print failed due to a clogged nozzle in about an hour. Today I changed the retraction distance and minimum extrusion distance window to 3mm. Default is 5mm. The print made it several hours but failed again due to a clogged nozzle. The Slice heat break was removed and I am back to printing with the original set up. Wished I would have read more of the reviews before I bought this. Can't wait for my Prusa MK3S+ to get here.
Did you verify the nozzle and heat break had no gap between them?
That’s usually the issue.
@@FilamentFriday Yes. I heated the hot end up, cleaned out the threads by threading the nozzle and head break in and out. I made sure that the nozzle and the end of heat break had solid contact. Thanks for all of your content CHEP.
@@FilamentFriday Bi metal do not work ok with PLA and bowden setups.
I've bought an Ender a year ago. Just few months ago I learned differences between shape, walls, density etc... You're my new Guru!
I made the mistake of buying the mellow bi-metal heatbreak, their design is not great because they don't have it setup so you can easily slot your filament down into the tip of it, so it winds up jamming up whenever I try to swap out my filament on my Ender 3. The only solution that even remotely has worked for me was to take the ptfe tube out of the coupler going down into the hot end, feeding the filament through and then hitting it with a lighter to soften up the tip so I could stretch it to a fine point, which I am then able to fit down into the tube inside the heatbreak. I'm tired of following this process so I just ordered the copperhead c-e bimetal heat break based on your recommendation Chuck. Thanks for posting great informative videos to help folks out.
Great to see this reviewed. I liked it a lot after installation, it really improved experience with PETG, Colorfabb NGEN etc, but I struggled to get the ideal retraction. In the end e3d were doing a sale on Titan extruders, so I turned my ender max into direct drive, and changed retraction to 1mm and tuned the esteps manually. This seems to have improved things a lot - literally zero stringing, no artefacts on Benchys etc. And PETG still printing great.
Hi Chuck, thanks for making this video, after watching this I concluded the heat break was a better option for me than going with an all-metal hot end. I did run into a few issues with the installation on my Ender 3 Pro, related to the heat break being longer than the stock one and pushing the nozzle lower; sharing in case others are in the same position:
- The M3x16 bolts that go through the bottom of the hot block and into the heat sink are now too short - I asked Slice about this and they recommend just using the grub screw to attach the hot block to the rest of the assembly
- I had to shim my CR Touch with a few washers between it and the bracket, because the nozzle was now below the probe
- The part fan is now blocked by the hot block, so I quickly remixed a longer shroud to account for it; it's part - 369993 on Printables
What kind of washers did you use and how many? I am running into that issue now.
I see no mention of retraction distance or speed with adding this new heat break. Can you please update with info on if the standard retraction 6.5mm is too much or not. Or if it need to be reduced.
Works great. Just don't forget to adjust your retraction!!!! I was banging my head trying to figure out why I was getting stringing, clogs, and binding,. Duhhhhhh the filament is not as deep inside hot end anymore.
I had to drop my retraction down to 3 from 5.5 to get it to start acting right to be able to do a heat tower then retraction tower.
i've had some frustration with this heatbreak clogging on my ender3. it works awesome if you make no mistakes and operate your printer flawlessly. but certain common mistakes seem to easily clog it - filament runout, or leaving the heat on for awhile after swapping filament, or leaving the heat on if you left it for a second to warm up while you do another task, or even if you leave the heat on for a bit to re-level. even with good thermal pasting and the heatbreak fan running the whole time. these are all things that happen to me at least once in awhile, and recovery is fairly laborious... a complete hotend disassembly, and possibly a ruined heatbreak. i tried clearing the clog by heating to 260 for awhile and trying to push the clog out with a 1.5mm allen key, or an accupuncture needle from the nozzle side, and it just wouldn't budge. as a last ditch i disassembled, removed the heat break, and torched it and then finally was able to remove the pla clog. heh the bimetal kinda works TOO good. i may have ruined it by torching... but so far it seems to be printing ok again. i've read about others having clogging issues with this heatbreak also. i wonder if this is what inspired your recent heat creep video. i know you have had a lot of issues with the design with ptfe down to the nozzle, but frankly so far this bimetal thing has caused more show-stopping issues for me than ptfe-to-nozzle ever did, and i'll probably go back to that (or upgrade to a v6 hotend). it might be that the printer i use this in is kinda full time pla, i don't really do petg or abs on it... perhaps those are not as finicky with this heatbreak, which is kinda counter-intuitive.
Same, more issues after installation then before with stock setup
@@losangelesrccrawlers3738 it hasn’t happened in awhile. maybe i’ve not made any mistakes in months (seems unlikely). i think i heard heatbreaks can be take some run-in to season like some people say with their build plate (i’ve never really studied but i’ve heard some build surfaces work better after some use)
Shipping to Aus was far too expensive, 👎but Slice helped me find a local retailer. Good service 👍
I ordered one yesterday before watching this video.
I noticed some strange stringing I never had in my past prints.
I removed the fan cover and a big petg blob was all over the hotend!
After removing the goo and disassembling the complete hotend, I found that the original heatbreak was cracked.
Ordered a new hotend and a bi-metal heatbreak. Didn't want to go for an all metal hotend from micro swiss. The original fullfills all my needs and I think it will not give me more benefits.
I did this and am having endless heat creep jams where the filament slows down but doesn't stop all the way leading to underextrusion. I've done everything I can think of and research about to stop this from happening.
Check your fan for failure( spinning too slow)
@@FilamentFriday I had replaced the fan with a new one from creality (24V) as the old one had developed bad bearings. I have replaced my part cooling solution with the thingiverse thing# 3468243 sans fan guard but the problem persisted before changing the cooling. I also have the dual gear extruder (tuned e-steps), new ptfe tubing, and a hardened nozzle for abrasives. Hotend temperatures remain steady so it's not a PID issue and I used thermal paste between the heatsink and the cold end of the heatbreak. I have also tried setting retractions to 1mm without improvement. I am able to manually push filament out past the section where it swells up in the heatsink so I know i'm not dealing with swollen and stuck filament at the beginning of a print. No swarf clogs either. I have tried PLA and PETG from different brands. When I start the printer after a failed print and manually extrude it takes a 20-30 seconds of extrusion and stepper slip (not extruder slip) to clear the swollen section of filament from the cold section before the filament flows smoothly again. Yes I am using the slice engineering heatbreak you link to.
Do you have a solution 🤔 i have the same problem 😟
@@frits183 I just gave up on that solution and upgraded to a Hemera Revo. It is by nature all metal and they will soon be releasing hardened nozzles for abrasives too.
Thank you for this! I just installed one last night and this video helped sell me on it. Your instructions helped because I couldn't find any on Slice's website, LOL I just found your video on the ABS corners. I'm about to try printing that for the first time.
I can't use capricorn. Filament always seems to not go through it well. Ends up clogging at the end of PTFE
Hello Everyone Great Video CHEP I just did this upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro run my first print with the upgrade and it looking great NOTE BLTOUCH USERS RESET AND ADJUSTS YOUR Z-OFFSET that is all thanks again for the great video I will be doing with to my NON PRO Ender 3 tomorrow.
Another mod for my Ender 3s thanks to CHEP. I added this on my Ender 3 with the BGM style direct drive and so far so good. I’ll be ordering a second one for other Ender 3, and probably convert that one to direct drive as well (I had the parts for nearly a year but have been too busy printing to stop and upgrade it). Thanks for all your great videos and profiles!
Chuck, love all your Friday episodes.
After watching this one, I went ahead with a hot end upgrade. Now a couple of frustrating weeks later, I think I am about the same print quality I had with a PTFE tube to the nozzle. I've watched other all metal hot end upgrade videos. It'd be nice if anyone mentioned potential issues with all metal hot end.
Like stringing, blobs, and clogs. Cause it's been a pain.
My 2 cents. You can leave them on the Take a penny, Leave a penny jar.
I’ve had none of those issues. Mine printed better right from the start. Same profile.
I have the same problem! Do you have a solution 🤔
Two weeks with a filament oiler installed and you will never have a problem again,I almost bought the internet BS till I tried it and was blown away. I went from constant jams,and failed prints to never having a malfunction since. Just try it and thank me later
Already showed that: ruclips.net/video/OG7We83M5gc/видео.html
I put one on yesterday and it does seem to help a whole lot.
One thing I noticed was blobs of what kind of looks like burned oil and plastic on the print. It didn't seem to really hurt the quality at all, it just looks unclean. Possibly I put a little too much oil on the sponge, or maybe I need to run it hotter until the tube is fully cured? If you have a tip on that I would be grateful.
I'm already much more happy with it than I was 2 days ago when I almost switched back to the stock tube, before I saw your tip.
@CHEP, why do you install the nozzle first??? This is not how the manufacturer's (Slice Engineering) instruction describe and this is also error prone. The proper way is to screw in the heatbreak first, until the top of the lower thread of the heatbreak are flush with the top of the heatblock. This ensures that the heatbreak is screwed-in deep enough that the MK8 nozzle *will* bump into it prior the MK8 nozzle shoulder bumps to the bottom of the heatblock...
I bought the Slice Engineering heat break after seeing this video. I tried it right away and my print quality dropped considerably. I went back to stock Creality setup and the print quality was back up to the quality I expected.
Yesterday, I had to replace me fan motor so I decided to try it again while I had it apart. I put the Slice heat break in with a brand new Microswiss M2 nozzle that I bought at MRRF this year and reassembled it and again it prints like crap. I had re-leveled the bed. Tried slicing a quick print in the latest Cura and Simplify 3D and 2 different rolls of PLA filament. For some reason, whenever I stray away from the stock Creality setup, print quality goes down the toilet.
Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Will this work with the Creality Spider 3.0 Pro All Metal Hotend
Printed PETG at 230°C for a few hours daily for a week and noticed the extruder starting to skip steps, the infamous clicking issue on Ender 3 style printers. I pulled out the PTFE liner and it was burned severly and obviously was on the best way to clog up completely. Now I ordered the Bi-Metal heatbrake from Slice Engineering to cheaply convert to an all metal hotend and I will see if this eliminates this problem.
It will
Thank you very much for more tips they are genuinely appreciated a fan from the UK
I just installed this upgrade last night. With the stock heat break I was able to peak at 9.62 mm³/s flow rate and now I'm reliably at 16.84 mm³/s. The main mod I did was mounting the stock Ender 3 extruder with the SpeedDrive direct drive mount on thingiverse.
How did you increase the max temp? I assume it is capable of higher temps now?
I'm running a titanium version of the heat break on mine. I took a chance on it and it works great. One of the draw backs is I have to do a cold pull after every print otherwise it will jam the next print if it cools down
That means ur heat break ain't working very well lol
This is why you want to avoid buying cheap heat breaks. It's one of the most critical parts of the machine, and it has to be machined really well and be designed properly. Either that or hotend cooling situation is not very good. Having to do a cold pull every print isn't a sign of a properly working hotend.
Couldn't you just modify your gcode so at the end of each print it retracts a lot, and at the start of a print it advances an equal amount?
I just did this mod to me Ender 3 V2 and let me tell you it was not easy to unscrew the stock heat break from the hot end. I had the hot end set up like you in vice grips, but even when heated to 240C I couldn't budge it with needle nose pliers. The stock heat break seems like hardened steel. Finally was able to remove it with a small pipe wrench lol.
ahh good so its not just me. who cant undo it
This was possibly the single best upgrade I made to my Ender 3s. I absolutely hate the design having the ptfe tube butt up to the nozzle, it caused so many issues. As soon as I swapped to these those issues have completely disappeared.
That was probably a different problem. Since most people are printing with Bowden tubes perfectly fine. I've had zero issues with my Bowden tube. Even before I upgraded it to a Capricorn tube.
Only reason I'm getting the all metal hot end is to print at higher temps.
Do you find that it helps prevent the gap clogs? Or does it still need to be super flush?
What issues did ir solve?
@@dangerous8333 I wouldn't say that's the only reason. Changing nozzles is easier too since you don't have to go through extra steps to ensure the PTFE tube is butted up against the nozzle.
what retraction settings do you use now?
Can you do a video on putting a ender 3 v2 in a encloser? I’m worried about the power supply getting to hot. I have no idea how to relocate it outside of the encloser
Man I've been having a lot of problems with this thing. I I just can't get through a full PLA print without a clunking extruder and clogged nozzle. I'm pretty confident I installed it correctly but I think my base model ender 3 fan setup just isn't cutting it. I set my nozzle to 210C and used a meat thermometer (not sure how accurate this is in a hot end) and measured 52C where the Bowden tube ends and over 60C in the narrow tube going to the heat block. Manually pointing a 5015 fan at the hot end lowered these temps 15-17C. I'm also aware that retraction tuning is pretty important in metal hot ends, but my benchy with only 1.5mm of retraction started clunking an hour in. This was at only 185C.
If anyone has suggestions or a similar experience with the base model Ender 3 and this part I'd love to hear about it. I have a supposedly better hot end fan coming tomorrow. I do believe this is a well engineered, well built component but I'm about ready to ditch it for the stock setup with a capricorn tube. I'll edit this comment if I can get it working.
EDIT: Well, I hit a major SNAFU. The new fan performed the same as stock so I decided to rebuild the hot end and make sure I used enough thermal paste around the heat break. I managed to break the nozzle with the copperhead still attached, leaving my $30 heat break fixed to a useless heat block. I might try to extract the nozzle but I'm leaning toward just throwing my Ender into the nearest river.
Sounds like a bad fan. It should get that hot. The 5015 fan kinda proved your theory.
Hello Everyone Great Video CHEP I did this upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro running prints with the upgrade and they looking great NOTE BLTOUCH USERS RESET AND ADJUSTS YOUR Z-OFFSET I personally also readjusted my E-Step also again great video CHEP
@@AkiraFurball Wow. lol Well first off I said I personally readjusted my E-Step I didn't say that it was 100% needed. I am glad that you seem to be able to use the defaults on your creality printers but with the changes I have personally made to include the one in the video I personally decided to run some calibration test after making this upgrade and came the personally decision that I needed to adjust my E-Step because I personally saw a change in how much easier and smoother the extruder was able to push the filament through after this upgrade. I would be very interested in CHEP thoughts on this.
Chuck, After installing this heat break, did you have to adjust your retraction settings? Some have recommended reducing to 1mm to avoid clogging. I currently use 6-6½mm on my E3Pro with the stock hot end depending on filament.
No, it’s still a bowden so it needs higher value. I use 5-6 depending on the filament brand.
Is this a replacement for an all metal hotend to do nylon?
Hi Chuck, I really enjoyed your videos, i purchased the HB from Slice however I noticed that the nozzle goes in 21/2 turns. Should i relevel and change Z offset?
I use the same finger ratchet you use. Good info and this will also work for ender 3 v3 se.
The heating block for this has dimensions that I can't match to any silicone socks in the marketplace. Why didn't they use the standard heating block? Seems the only way to get a silicone sock for this is to buy another hotend kit.
Hey Chep. New to 3d printing and new to the channel which is fantastic I must add. Your descriptions and walkthroughs are perfect.
I've just purchased one of these for my newly acquired CR10s pro v2, and, just now have purchased a micro Swiss nozzle to accompany it.
I hope it'll be a good combo which will minimise clogs amd the such. Keep up the good work 👏
I think you’ll like the heat break. As far as the nozzle, I’m not sold on it. And I suspect you’ll have to run it hotter than brass.
If you screw it on just right you can use it with bl touch. I screwed the heatbreak so it was flush with the heatblock but I would recommend going 1/2 or 1/4 turns back from it to make more room. I was left with .5mm z offset. As long as you put the bed clips in strategic spots (if you have the low profile ones to go with the creality glass bed). If you don't check the bed clips you can have the print hit them causing G112 error.
I used the bi metal heat break from TH3D and hate it. It was shorter than the original ender 3 and cause my parts cooling fan to hand below the nozzle even though that was the one for the ender 3. I ended up going back to stock.
I may give this slice engineering one a try.
I got extremely worried for a minute after i installed the heat break. I also noticed it is to tall for the cr touch. I did the auto level and adjust my z off set. Then i had to go to work. Guess just have to keep on it when i print just in case if i have to change the z offset. That would have been a nice tidbit of info to have. Very glad after came back to read the comments to see if i was the only one having that issue. Do they make some kind of back plate or something to make it higher up?
What about trianglelab one?
Thanks Chuck, just ordered one today from Slice Engineering
How to change the printers max-out temperature after installing this heartbreak? In the firmware?
Great video, I just bought this for my Ender 3 Max. Question I have, do you need to do a PID autotune after installing this? How is that done on an Ender? Thanks much.
You shouldn’t need to. I didn’t.
Chuck, thank you for all your videos. I installed this upgrade. The printer printed fine once. I tried the 2nd print and it was plugged . The extruded was tapping. I could not clear the plug until I pulled the hot end apart an used a small drill to clear the plastic in the heat breaker. After I got it clear I tried again and the printer plugged again after on successful print. I am printing pre foamed Lw pla to print airplanes. This material is a little coarse. Just wondering if you have any idea how I can fix this. You’re a busy man so I understand if you don’t get time to respond. You have really helped my 3d printing with your videos
I’d contact them to see if there is an issue. It shouldn’t do that.
My ptfe tube was shot too so change it to capricorn tubing and install my bltouch to 🙂
I order one 2 days ago for my Ender Max as soon it get here i'll change the tubing for capricorn and i'm going to install belt tension upgrade after i'm thinking about the dual z upgrade, have you find something for using a touch screen on the max ? 😉 great videos and thank you
Would there be an advantage or disadvantage if you installed this upgrade and did the hot end fix from another one of your videos?
I installed this heat break on my Ender 3. In order to print high temp materials like PC or Nylon, do you think it's necessary to upgrade my heater block, thermistor, or heater cartridge? So far I've been printing ASA successfully but I'm curious about printing PC.
I'm considering between this and the V6 hotend. However, this one doesn't provide an extra thermistor or heating cartridge, so could I ask if the stock one can withstand up to around 285-300 degree celsius for high temperature printing (safely)? Thanks :)
Do you have to change your retraction when using these?
0.5 - 2mm Retract MAX
Perhaps you'll need to print 5-10°C hotter, not necessarily though.
If the slice engineering is too expensive a all metal throat can be had from the usual Chinese supplier for maybe 8 bucks a piece.
I deal with clogging by burning cooking oil inside the filament path before installing it.
I am thinking about upgrading the stock hot end on my Ender 3 v2 to be able to print with higher temperatures (for ASA). But I have heard that the heating cartridge and thermistor wires are also insulated with PTFE. Should I worry that gassing will occur on those parts or should it be safe?
it's a shame not to take advantage of this modification to try to raise the temperature and print nylon at 300 ° by modifying the ender. Is it possible ? could you make a video on it? it would be great to print nylon carbon on an ender
Hello, Mr. Chep. After watching this video, I bought the Slice Engineering Copperhead Heat-break model C-E for the Ender 3, I got the same problem as Bek. After about 2 prints, it jammed on me. I had not changed any settings yet from when I was using the Luke Hatfield modified fix, that had been working great for about 20 prints, and only stopped when I switched to the Copperhead heat-break. My guess is that the settings in Cura need some tweaking, and not skilled enough yet in Cura to know what they are. (There are a lot of them.) What settings do you use for the Copperhead and why? I am currently testing settings out myself, and would like to trade results.
I use my profiles linked in every video
The only two settings that have had an effect on clogs for me with the Copperhead C-E are changing the retraction distance from 5mm to 2-3mm, and retractions speed from 45mm/s to 25-35mm/s. I am still getting clogs and jams, but at least not nearly as often with these settings. So, at least I can do small prints, and clear the jams on the fails. I have recently dropped the settings from 3mm, 35mm/s to the new settings of 2mm, 25mm/s, and have not had a jam since the 2mm, 25mm/s changes, about 1 day so far.
Bummer I have the same issues
Why add the thermal paste between the heat sink and the break? Isn't the function of the break to NOT transfer heat to the heat sink?
In my case, I got a lot of clogs because of heat creep. The thermal paste between the heat brake and the heat sink helps with cooling the heatbrake
The purpose of the heat sink is to draw heat away from the heat break top section so filament won’t preheat and expand. Thermal paste helps that process.
Thank you for this addition, for my adventure into using PETG. And, who knows, I might get brave and try ABS. I have functional parts tgat I made in PLA, and they did not 'weather well'; so I am hoping a material change will improve those.
FYI. The link lands on a page WITHOUTH just the heatbreak. I think they are trying to upsell through confusion. Might be a conversation you want to have with them ;)
Which link did you choose?
There is one for the heatbreak alone and another for all products.
Makes me want to pull the trigger on the Aguila. I currently have an Anet AM8 with a genuine E3DV6.
Aquila with the new Alex jyers firmware is amazing.
I upgraded to a better hotend only to have the heatbreak disconnect from the heater block and leak without noticing I wish they would have kept the screws from heat block to heat sink
Why did you remove them?
ruclips.net/video/eM-rJWBuWhw/видео.html
They eliminated the screws on the microswiss hotend from heat sink to heater block
Just bought this heat break and installed it last night. Although I print primarily PLA, I thought this would be handy if I chose to print with other materials. However, after installed this my print quality went way South. I've re-leveled the bed, tried different temps and retraction settings. Pretty disappointing for printing PLA.
I'll be switching back to my original setup.
I think i have the same problem. The quality is not so good. I have stringing issues and i can't adjust the retraction distance because at more than 3.5mm the hot end gets clogged. So i'll try to use the oil dispenser trick. If it doesn't work, i'll be switching back to the original setup too.
I'm talking about PLA, didn't try other materials yet.
@@facundogomez4892 Did you ever get it working right? I'm having similar issues with under extrusion (possibly because of clogging) when doing a lot of retraction after the upgrade.
getting a lot of stringing also been trying all speeds and retractions. nothing works yet. spent a lot of time.
@@AndyDillbeck Yes, i managed to make it work reducing the retration distance at 1.6, retraction speed at 40 and increasing noozle's temperature at 215°C. I reinstalled the bi-metal and the noozle tighter, so i't doesn't loose material, and i installed a new aluminum extrusor, wich took me some time to adjust it right. The problem is that there is stringing (looks like you have to accept it for pla and bi-metal), but there is no clogging and It worked continuously since then.
Did your E3V2 not come with a silicone sock on the heater block, or did you intentionally remove it?
I removed it.
Great video...
Would you recommend after doing this, wouldn't a PID autotune be a good idea?
100% definitely. Any changes at all to the hot end, even a fan replacement, it's worth doing. If you've never changed your machine, it's worth doing!
I just got a cheap one off ebay which looks like brass with a stainless threaded part down the bottom. It has only about 5mm space for the PTFE tube to go into it, which is much much less than the Slice Engineering model you've got here. I wonder if that's a good thing....
I talked about those in the video. I don’t recommend them.
Chep thank you!! I have a question, will it work with nylon and or the carbon fiber nylon, and is the part as good as the all metal micro Swiss hot end ? Thank you again for all your videos and your time and knowledge!! Hope today finds you smiling!!
If you modify the firmware to go above 260°C
I bought one of these from your link to Slice, and it seemed to work really well for printing ABS, but I'm having a heck of a time getting the PLA to print, with lots of under extrusion and the extruder gears doing some kind of backlash. I suspect it might have to do with retraction, but I'm just having issues with it.
Any videos or suggestions as to how to get it dialed in correctly? I'm hoping I don't have to switch back to the old one.
Before the switch on the stock ender 3 I was had the hot end at 200c, 5mm retraction, basically all the stock settings.
Now I've upped the temperature to 210, which does seem to have helped, but not solved all the issues.
I’ve not had any issues like that with PLA so not sure what to suggest. Maybe your cooling fan is failing and your getting heat creep in heat sink.
Same problem here, simple objects like cubes are easy, but with more complex figures that requires a lot of retraction you will get clogs or stringing
I use same 6 mm retraction as before without issues in all my prints. It’s been a great improvement on my V2
Awesome tutorial! I just changed mine. Thanks.
100% the best first upgrade you could do to these printers. Probably the most common issue new users have is clogs because the PTFE isn't sealed well against the nozzle, an all metal heatbreak solves this issue.
Great video! I already ordered mine for an upgrade. I have a question. I plan on buying a new stock hot end for this. Should I heat up the heater block to install it or can I do it cold? Thanks!
Heating it up makes it easier.
How the hell did you have the hand strength to screw that new heat break in by hand?!?!!
Does the Ender CR10S use the same hot end? Could this improve the performance of the printer?
Can you show us, the same change on the Ender 3 S1?
Are you recommending the Slicer engineering Heat Break over just getting a new All Metal Swiss Hotend?
Yes.
WHAT WOULD YOU SET YOU RETRACTIONS TO
Hi Chuck I have been running my Slice engineering Heartbreak for about five months now with Pla/Petg.
I want to print Asa next but I have been warned that the thermistor is PTFE lined , should I replace it or is that not the case ?
If so, is there a thermistor without a PTFE isolator ?
That’s not true. Run your ASA.
@@FilamentFriday From what I can tell, the small glass-bead style thermistors do have ptfe liners the first 1inch or so. In this case, without also upgrading the thermistor, we haven't completely solved the pesky ptfe problem. Let us know why you think otherwise.
I mis-understood the question. If you are concerned about the insulation on the thermistor, then upgrading to the slice engineering heat block and sensor is an option. A lot depends on what temp you are running your ASA.
Hi Chuck, while watching your video to install my new heat sink, i noticed you don't have the rubber shroud around the heat block. Is it necessary to have that on, I trimmed the pointy part off to make easer to change the nozzle.
It helps clean it when filament ends up there and also helps a little with temp stability but it’s so minor. But for videos I just take it off.
Hi Chuck, I purchased the Bi-metal heat break for my Ender 3 v2 Neo. After I started putting together everything (based off your video) I found that the heat break does not fit into my heatsink. Do you have a recommendation on a new heatsink that will work with my Ender 3 V2 Neo?
do you think the capricorn with washer fix is good enough and does the same thing without having to buy a new heatbreak part?
No, this is better.
what was the temp in the heat break prior to upgrading to the new one? that would've been nice to show as before and after.
Came to the comments to makes this very point.
@@ethzero hopefully he can make a quick follow up
The PTFE went all the way thru to the nozzle on the first heat break so the temp was whatever the nozzle temp was. So at 250° C the temp on the end of the PTFE was 250°C.
Did your retraction settings change?
Oh... Pretty impressive indeed, Chuck! 😃
Thanks a lot!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Mr.Chep after this video I actually bought bi-metal hot end. but it keeps clogging i don't know why. I use your cura 4.11 profile i have tried different temperature and retractions but the it didn't work well and also messed up the prints. Could you give some advice what to do? My bi-metal hotend is not the same brand but the size and everything is the same
As I described in the video, the clones are not the same. They aren’t built the same or polished the same. It’s defective.
It’s why I recommended the Slice Engineering Heat Break.
@@FilamentFriday I see. thank you so much Sir.
I’ve had nothing but trouble with my slice copperhead sadly :( seems like alotttt of people are having issues with these on the ender 3s using PLA
I have had most people report no issues. What troubles are you having?
@@FilamentFriday sadly i am having constant clogging and subsequent under extrusion, I’ve been in contact with Slice this morning and according to the gentleman I spoke with I’m
Having a known common issue. Right now they aren’t recommending printing with pla while using the C-E heat break. Pretty bummed.
Interesting. I print everyday with in on a V2 using PLA without a single issue.
I have the same problem! Do you have a solution 🤔
@@frits183 sadly I just returned it for a refund as per slice engineering recommendation. Nothing I tried helped.
Great review, I do have a question, did you have to reduce your retraction distance when using the bi-metal hotend.
No, didn’t change it at all.
Just what I need for my Ender-5 Pro. Which one would be the correct one for a Ender 5 Pro ?
The same one he used. All Creality Ender machines use the same hotend.
What heat sink is that because the one I have doesn’t fit the heat break
Sorry if this has already been asked but quick question. Does this mod work on an older Ender 3 pro as well? I presume that it still uses the same Creality hot end so yes but want to double check before ordering. I have PTEG and upgraded Bowden tubing but this sounds like it would be great to have to ensure PTEG comes out looking great. Thoughts? Thank you in advance
Yes, it’s the same hotend.
Hi, I need help.
I bought 2 Copperhead Heat Break from Slice Engineering for my Ender 3 and Ender 3 pro. After installation on both machines. The PLA does not come out? I put both machines at Temperature of 205 and I even increase to 220. On one machine a little bit of the PLA was coming out. What am I doing wrong?
Make sure your fan is working and the nozzle isn’t blocked.
Hi CHEP, How do you feel this compares to the "hotend fix" with the spacer?
This is better
@@FilamentFriday thanks so much for the quick reply! Glad to hear, just installed this in one of my printers over this past weekend
Hello CHEP what tool did you use to measure the tubing? And if you have a link that would be great! I want to make sure I have all the right tools to work on my 3D Printer so any others you want to throw at me would also be great. Thank you for the videos and the help!!!
Did you need to do a PID tune after install or is it recommended ?
It’s probably a good idea
I'm trying to upgrade my anycubic neo hot end full metal one is there any advice what copper heatbreak I can use
I just ordered this parts from Slice Engineering, but I forgot to add the thermal paste and I don’t want to repay the shipping costs for a 2nd order.
Can I get away with using a computer thermal paste instead? I’m only going to be printing in PLA+ and maybe PETG.
Yes. It’s probably the same.
I hv trouble dismantling the original heat break the printer comes with and when I finally managed to take it off, the new bi metal heat break I put in got stuck half-way in and I am not able to turn it by hand. There were black burnt residue inside on the threads of the heat block and I couldn't take them off completely before I screw in the new heat break. Any help as to how to continue tighten or remove the new heat break? I havent try turning it using hand tools to avoid damaging the bi-metal heat break
Heat it up with a heat gun first.
I reddit for some suggestions as well and finally managed to removed the stuck heat break while heating the heat block at 245C and twist the heat break abit with a plier and finishing the rest twisting by hand with a leather glove. Got a bit of a scratch on the surface of the heat break hopefully no further damage done.
The heat block I wasnt able to remove most of the residue on the threads, so I ended up ordering a new heat block. Should make installation easier.
Have you noticed any problems with this when trying to re-advance PLA to the nozzle after a retraction of a few cm? I had some issues with that (causing under-extrusion) when trying out a prototype metal/ceramic hybrid heatbreak which was designed to do the same thing (although it worked just fine otherwise). This is because the PLA is a bit malleable when it leaves the hot area and can distort so, when you re-advance it, it gets stuck on the rigid metal lumen (whereas the PTFE has some 'give' in it). Probably won't be an issue with ABS.
So far, no.
this will come down to machining tolerances of that bore in the heat break and what ptfe tubing your using. if there is a substantial difference in diameter you might have an issue. slice is pretty good with that though I doubt you will have an issue with them. well polished and machined tight.
A lesser copycat might give you some grief.
Love chep, but can’t support Slice Engineering as a company. They didn’t deserve their patent on the mosquito and they have gone after small companies (like so small that they are operating out of their garage) for selling similar products.
I see mixed comments about using this with PLA. Have you used it with more than the CHEP cubes, and what was your experience? I really want to do this as it seems like a great design, but I don't want to end up with jams like some have said they get.
I’ve had zero jams on many prints, large and small. The jams are typically from clones not the actual slice engineering version I used.
@@FilamentFriday - OK, thanks. I did buy the original from Slice .. next time I need to fix my hot end, I'll give it a try !