You should heat up the block before removing the heat break (so you don't break it) and also tighten the nozzle while it's at the highest temp you print at or you're going to have a leak.
So I took a propane torch to the stock heat block to try and get it off with no luck as well. That being said I know that the thread lock should weaken when hot but I had no luck. As for tightening the nozzle fully when it's up to temp, that is how I normally change out any of my nozzles. I thought that was common knowledge but thinking about that more, I should have talked about that in the video seeing that people new to this wouldn't know that. Anyways thanks for the comment and info. 😁👍
@@randymay Thanks for your update on Mark's first point and while I too only tighten nozzles when hot, your recognition of a novice's knowledge shows you do understand the point and why you should have commented about it. Well done, mate.
@@randymay Don't use a blow torch, just heat the extruder as usual and then wiggle the heat breaker gently and then unscrew it. Run a PID each time you mess around there.
Dude thank you for making a video about this, I've been looking for a teardown / tutorial about how to replace the hot end on this printer for weeks, now I can upgrade my printer without having to worry if elegoo used some non standard parts. I'm also way more confident that ill be able to fix the printer if the nozzel ever gets clogged up. So overall thank you and I hope your channel gets the recognition it deserves in the 3d printer community because this video was very well made and very information.
Well thank you very much and I'm happy to hear that this video has been that helpful for you. 😁👍 If you want to help with growing the channel feel free to share any of my videos if you find them to be useful to others.
I didn't realize that the thermister was PTFE lined... I switched to a metal screw in one for easier maintenance if they go bad but now I'm extra happy I did that!
Hey man, your video was super helpful/insightful. Love how clear sounding your audio is, and your style of delivery is perfect - not draggy and straight to the point. Thanks!
Thanks and that is the goal of this channel for the most part. I've got sick of seeing videos that just waste your time and get to the point after 20 minutes.
I found that removing the 2 screws that hold fan shroud but waiting to disconnect the fan wires and remove the shroud until after you remove the whole assembly from the printer makes removing the fan wires then the fan shroud much easier. But thank you for the tutorial and the links for the parts. Very helpful
Yeah I've seen a lot of talk about it so I just took the plunge bought the stuff and did it. So hopefully this is helpful to a lot of people now and I'm happy that you were able to find the video. 😊👍
Here is the full list of the items that you might need to do this yourself: All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (4 Pack) - amzn.to/3ILv6bP All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (3 Pack) - amzn.to/3HjcPRN All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (2 Pack) - amzn.to/3kxLylX All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (Just 1) - amzn.to/3HjvfSp Copperhead Heat Break C-E (If you are looking for a better quality heat break get this one) - bit.ly/Bimetallic-Heat-Break-Upgrade Aluminum Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CKCIar High Temp Plated Solid Copper Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CQVIUV Stainless Steel M2 Bolts - amzn.to/3XmuRZ2 Stainless Steel Metric Bolt Assortment - amzn.to/3XKsuze Thermistor 100k NTC 3950 M3 Stud - amzn.to/3QQ5M6q Heat Shrink Tubing (If you are just going to just cut the old wire and solder it make sure to use something like this) - amzn.to/3D1mRV7 JST PH2.0 Connector kit ( To replace thermistor plug) - amzn.to/3J5lSan JST PH2.0 Connector kit with Crimping Tool - amzn.to/3XHG1Hx Micro Connector Pin Crimping Tool Only - amzn.to/3weB7pS You might want to use some thermal paste to get better heat transfer but you don't have to: Slice Engineering Boron Nitride Paste - amzn.to/3w15Bvw If you're looking for the latest Elegoo firmware you can find it here - www.elegoo.com/pages/3d-printing-user-support Links to Printers: Elegoo Neptune 3 Max - bit.ly/NeptuneMax Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus - bit.ly/Neptune-3-Plus Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro - bit.ly/ElegooNeptune3Pro Elegoo Neptune 3 Max (Amazon) - Coming Soon Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus (Amazon) - amzn.to/3kbB0IN Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (Amazon) - Coming Soon 3d Printer Filament That I Use: PolyLite ABS - bit.ly/PolyLite-ABS PolyLite ASA - bit.ly/PolyLite-ASA PolyFlex TPU 95 (Flexable) - bit.ly/PolyFlex-TPU-95 PolyLite Silk PLA Blue - bit.ly/PolyLiteSilkPLABlue NylonX Filament - bit.ly/MatterHackersNylonX PolyTerra Marble PLA - bit.ly/PolyTerraMarblePLA TECSONAR Tricolor PLA - amzn.to/3H79d5N Build Series PLA - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeriesPLA Build Series Silky PLA - bit.ly/BuildSeriesSilkyPLAMatterHackers Build Series ABS - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeriesABS Build Series PETG - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeriesPETG PRO Series Filament - bit.ly/MatterHackersPROSeriesFilament Amazon 3D Printing Filament: PLA - amzn.to/3gsLE9Z PETG - amzn.to/3pXjjvu ABS - amzn.to/3wsTRjS ASA - amzn.to/2RX8dtM Polycarbonate - amzn.to/3cLdr38 Nylon - amzn.to/3iNGeI2 Editing & Camera Gear: Canon EOS R - amzn.to/3ULd2AH 77in Tripod - amzn.to/3FICPFw Studio Lights & Stands - amzn.to/3HqSGtv Thermal Camera TOPDON TC001 - amzn.to/3HquffP DJI Pocket 2 4K Handheld 3-Axis Gimbal - amzn.to/3UOqmVc Accessories Kit for DJI Pocket 2 - amzn.to/3Waszeq Video Editing Software - bit.ly/Wondershare-Filmora-Video-Editing ________________________________________________ Note : Most of the links that I use that go to products are affiliate link. This means I make a small commission on anything that you happen buy using them. This is at no extra charge to you and this helps support the work I do on this channel. 😁👍 ________________________________________________
Hi! Yours is the only tear down video i have come across, thanks so much for psoting it. Im having an issue whereby my neptune 3 pro direct drive kind of grinds the pla instead of extruding it. ITll start printing the buddah, but after maybe ten layers, it seems to grind rather than extrude. I had a major fail last night, the type where all the plastic gets up into the whole mechanism, and im wondering if it might have melted the plastic inside. So i'm ordering new pieces through your affiliate links. Do you know how i tear down the gears to clean them? Is that psossible?
At 1:46 , you should apply a lot of thermal paste there. the whole copper(cold side) should be covered in thermal paste. Over time when its cold & heat up repeatedly the surface contact will have a gap. It might have filament heat creep & stringing soon. There is no way they can manufacture(heatbreak & heatsink) it with 0 tolerance. Unless its a 1 piece hotend like bambu. So thermal paste is necessary in modular hotend for heat transfer. DO NOT USE LIQUID METAL as paste. It will put hole in your aluminium heatsink. Use boron nitride for best performance. If it hard to get, you can use thermal grizzly kryonaut from most pc shop. It will help extrusion & retraction become accurate. Meaning your print will become more beautiful just by applying thermal paste.
Yeah it would definitely help with heat transfer and I believe I said that you can add it if you like but I can't remember. I do have links to some in the description of the video.
I too have to go for this modification with all metal filament insertion eliminating that 'obnoxious plastic tube that has caused me considerable problems and not only to me. I have a Kobra first series and I have done several trials installing the Kobra2 extruder but in the end I was not successful. When I first insert the filament it goes through smoothly but at the time of printing it does not come out properly. Solutions? Thank you very much.
You are still going to want to put that tube back in there just to act as a guide it will work without it but it works a lot easier to align your filament down into the hot end after switching it out. You'll need to cut the tube down to about 30 mm
Nice video! I just got the N3pro for Christmas been working awesome but the screen lock up on me and the touch screen doesn’t work now..lot of people said to up the firmware..and thought you might want to make a video on that to help me and others out thanks
Thanks for this. Went with the Copperhead and copper block. Right now I just want the headroom this affords and the ability to print more exotic like material down the road. Appreciate the video. Thank you.
I know it's been ahile but I think I may have finally gotten it working well. I had intially taken it back out because I experienced clogging. Reinstalled it all and PID tuned, then ran an elaborate retraction file. Upped retractions from 2 to 3(.5?) and so far so good. Upped retraction speed as well from 60 to 120 and it works, the test said it would, but I'm still feeling that's high. Anyway, thanks again.
Well I ended up having to try doing this on my printer, as the original had a major clog (Filled up the silicon cover and made that all useless.). Unfortunately, even with the snippet of the tubing, I couldn't get this to reliably feed the nozzle without it jamming up near the motor (Looks like it just binds up and bunches the filament up in the internals).
@@randymay just pla, 210. Its almost like it goes into the feed and scrapes the edges until it sticks and then the motor crumples the filament into itself.
Thank you so much for this. My 3D prints had started having more and more errors, so I took a look at the condition of the nozzle. It was ... unsatisfactory. I have new hot ends, a new heat block, M2 bolts, and different sizes of nozzles on the way, thanks to your advice. :)
My materials arrived today. Printer is happily printing a little happy Buddha (personally I always thought it was Budai since Siddhartha wasn't fat). I don't think I've ever fully disassembled and reassembled anything at this level of complexity before, and it's all thanks to you. Thank you so much.
I don't suppose you would happen to be able to help with this, but for some reason, my heat block is now covered in what looks like caramelized residue, as was the old one. Do you think my silicone heat cover may have partially melted somehow?
This was a lot of help. I recently broke off my nozzle when tightening it. Then I tried to use a screw extractor and cracked the whole block 🤦 This video helped me with the disassembly and it also gave me some tips when I'm gonna buy a new one. Thanks for the great video /Bo Ps. The problem was a bulge in the filament so the extruder couldn't feed it in. I of course realized this efter I broke the nozzle.
@randymay hey man it turns out I accidentally ordered the wrong size of heat pipe thing. But I was able to just use a angle grinder to change the length.
Just stick the heatblock on a gas stove, or heat reaaaly hot with a propane torch to melt up the thread locker...then unscrew so it won't snap off the thin neck of the heatblock
Thanks for the fantastic tutorial! I followed it to a tee, minus replacing the thermistor since once I did, my printer no longer detected one being present. After swapping to an all metal hot end though, filament no longer properly feeds through the printer. The gears grab it and pull it maybe a few centimeters before the filament stops being pulled through, despite the gears still spinning. Anyone have any idea for a fix?
Thanks a bunch dude! Very nicely done tut on how to do it and thank you so much for including a parts list! Saves me a bunch of headache and time, superb!
Every part is as advertised =) forgot to buy the damn screws tho, gotta wait a few more days xD dammit DONT forget to buy the screws...apparently they are super uncommon in shops nowadays (at least where i live).
@randymay Hey I followed the tutorial and got a new heatblock but I am haveing issues with my nozzle pushing into the bed when I try to auto level the printer. Any ideas?
If you can use some digital calipers and measure your heat block and your old heat block and make sure they're the same thickness other than that you need to make sure things are screwed in flush when it comes to the heat break into the heat block.
I made the upgrade (Neptune 3+) with the solid copper heat block, all Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium, and the ptfe tube. Halfway through a next print it blocked up and I had to take it apart again. What might have caused it with Elegoo PLA? Also, I am doing a flat print and the surface is now not as smooth as it was before the upgrade. Any thoughts what I am doing wrong? UPDATE: I cannot get it to print successfully now. A print starts and after a while no more filament comes out. I am so frustrated. @randymay
This was a big help to me. However, when I go to remove the tiny screws from the new heat block to replace them, the screws strip right away and I cannot get them out. Any idea on how to fix that? Thanks!
Added these mods to my Neptune 2s and they work great. Getting ready to do this on my 3 Plus soon. Does the PTFE tube serve any feeding function in the Neptune 3 printers? The upgraded heatbreaks don't have the deep "cutout" for the tubing to be inserted, but there is a little bit. In the video, you seem to leave it out entirely, so I'm guessing you no longer need it at all. Just wondered if it should be cut shorter. When the filament is loaded, it won't bind in the direct drive system?
I've done the upgrade. I manually leveled my bed and hit out level and the printer screen is stuck on booting. any idea what I did wrong? is this why I need to do that PID tune?
Clear and concise. However, have you investigate either the Volcano style hot end or the multi-port nozzles? I am keen to print faster rather than print hotter.
Thanks and I haven't really looked into different hot end setups for this. I know that if your doing to print faster you are going to want more heat to keep up with the flow of the filament.
Are there any upgrade thermistors that come pre-equipped with the proper connector. I'm not the most technical person in the world and while I think I could make it work I'd be willing to pay a few dollars extra for the peace of mind.
Auch ich muss mich für diese Modifikation mit Ganzmetall-Filamenteinführung entscheiden, um das unangenehme kleine Plastikröhrchen zu eliminieren, das mir erhebliche Probleme bereitet hat, und nicht nur mir. Ich habe einen Kobra der ersten Serie und habe verschiedene Tests durchgeführt, indem ich den Kobra2-Extruder installiert habe, aber am Ende war ich nicht erfolgreich. Wenn ich das Filament zum ersten Mal einführe, geht es problemlos durch, aber wenn ich drucke, kommt es nicht richtig heraus. Gibt es Lösungen? Ich danke Ihnen vielmals.
In the video I didn't put it back in and as you saw it worked but I did put it in later. You do need to cut it down to about 30mms due to it no longer going all the way down to the nozzle.
@@randymay thanks so much for the reply. V much appreciated. I’ve just had the Neptune 3 Max for a few weeks and I’m so nervous taking something that big and expensive apart, but your video is so reassuring. Thanks again.
I don't but you can download the Elegoo version of Cura and get all that info if you like. Here is the link drive.google.com/file/d/1fLB4Z-bNiXrswew_Bic5BTAtMd5Ku3U6/view
The 2 bolts (allen head) holding the heater block to the hot end assembly, what size are those? Most of the allen head bolts to remove the fan assembly and the hot end were 2mm, but these two INSIDE the heater block appear to be smaller? Even smaller than the 1.5mm allen I had. Very confused here...
Thanks very much. Well done. Do you have a video that shows how to adjust the Z-offset anywhere? Do you have a video on how to use the Neptune 3 (plu) anywhere for newbies?
Hello my friend. Thanks for your video. I have a little question for you. How can I increase the nozzle max temperature using software? I want to print at 300 degrees with my printer.
I did used a 0.8mm nozzle and all I did was use the default profile and changed the nozzle size in the slicer. I did fine that I needed to mess with the retraction a bit due to it under extruding a lot but that was it.
This video is super well done and perfectly concise, thank you! Quick question, you mentioned using an enclosure, which is what I want to do for my N3 Pro, but I know it’s recommended to move the PSU outside the enclosure for most printers, is that the case here? Or can the stock PSU hold up in the hotter environment? Thank you again!
Yeah it is always best to keep the PSU cooler but you really don't have to worry about it in my experience. Typically the enclosures get to around 100° f .
Yeah that would be cool but also very time consuming. That being said I might need to get it setup to print ASA and Nylon for a large project I'm wanting to do for the channel.
Hello I have aittle question because I'm not 100 percent sure about it. You mentioned using thermal paste on the description. Where to use it if I may ask? Sorry if its obvious I'm new to it and wanna learn as much as possible. Thank you
Hi, when you replace the heat block (high end one) & the All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium, did you also replace or upgrade the Bowden tube?
Thanks for this! Had already ordered the heatbreak and block from your previous video, looking foreword to putting everything in action soon! Based on your measurements from the last video, I've ordered some 2020 extrusion and connectors to build the enclosure frame. I've got a pre-cut 32" x 42" plywood base to build everything on.
hello, so you don't have to put the ptfe tube back with the bi-metal? (i'm french, my english is very not perfect, and the automatic traduction too ;) )
It makes it really hard to load your filament in for one. Some people say that it will cause under extrusion as well not having a smooth clean path but I haven't seen that when printing without it. But if you're doing this you already have the PTFE tube just cut it and put it in and you'll pretty much never have to replace it unless you wear a hole in it
Black & Decker were bought out years back by DeWalt. You could use the same batteries on either brand, thought that was funny. Not sure if it is still this way. It was about 25 yeas back.
Why do you it need the blue tube on the new one? The metal parts are the same length? I just ordered all these pieces, but want to make sure I understand it all. Thanks!
You can use it without the blue tub but it will make it harder to load the filament. I suggest cutting the tube to about 30mm long and put it back in and you will be fine.
Here is the full list of the items that you might need to do this yourself: All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (4 Pack) - amzn.to/3ILv6bP All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (3 Pack) - amzn.to/3HjcPRN All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (2 Pack) - amzn.to/3kxLylX All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (Just 1) - amzn.to/3HjvfSp Copperhead Heat Break C-E (If you are looking for a better quality heat break get this one) - bit.ly/Bimetallic-Heat-Break-Upgrade Aluminum Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CKCIar High Temp Plated Solid Copper Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CQVIUV Stainless Steel M2 Bolts - amzn.to/3XmuRZ2 Stainless Steel Metric Bolt Assortment - amzn.to/3XKsuze Thermistor 100k NTC 3950 M3 Stud - amzn.to/3QQ5M6q Heat Shrink Tubing (If you are just going to just cut the old wire and solder it make sure to use something like this) - amzn.to/3D1mRV7 JST PH2.0 Connector kit ( To replace thermistor plug) - amzn.to/3J5lSan JST PH2.0 Connector kit with Crimping Tool - amzn.to/3XHG1Hx Micro Connector Pin Crimping Tool Only - amzn.to/3weB7pS You might want to use some thermal paste to get better heat transfer but you don't have to: Slice Engineering Boron Nitride Paste - amzn.to/3w15Bvw If you're looking for the latest Elegoo firmware you can find it here - www.elegoo.com/pages/3d-printing-user-support
Great video, I followed along and replace the parts in my N3+ but now, even after leveling the nozzle is pressing on the bed. One attempt after level to print and now there is a nice scratch/groove on the build plate (Ouch) any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong? Leveling completes with the paper test looking ok Z offset is 1.81 which seems high. Thanks in advance
@@calebwaller454 I had the heatbreak screwed in all the way vs 50/50 Heat break and Nozzle. Also I had some PTFE tubing in the heatbreak forgetting that it was all metal. Once that was sorted out I'm back up and running.
Thanks for the video! I would like to know please: will all these changes and parts work in a Neptune 3?…I really want to upgrade one of my N3 to be able to print ASA…thanks in advance if you can answer this question!
By default there a small cut of tube inside the hot end. Do you not need to add that piece with this heat break? Shouldn't there still be a tube pressing against the bottom of the heat break?
The point of this is to remove that tube from the hottest part of the hotend assembly. You can cut the default tubing down to about 30mm in length and put it back in to make it easier for the filament to get to the top of the heat break.
How did you make the bimetal hotend snug on the all copper heat block? There's a lot of play unless if i screw it completely in, but then the heat block is sitting on the extruder.
I can not removed the fans, they are just stuck from the connection area. Is there a tab I’m not holding down I’m using the tweezers and everything like in the video
Hi mate, because the Heat block sits lower as you used m2 x 16mm screws do you have to adjust the z end stop to compensate as I have the N3P printer that has no bed thumb screws to adjust? Thanks
But the thing is it doesn't sit any lower. The block that I used didn't have holes in the block as deep as the original one so I needed longer bolts to make up for that. The new heat block and break are the length in every other way so there should be no problem with bed clearance.
thanks for the vid. i tried this but if i fully insert the heatbreak into the block.. the nozzle wont be able to fully inserted.. and on the otherhand, if i fully insert the nozzle on the black. the heatbreak wont be able to be fully inserted... how did you manage to fix it?
Very interesting video and well presented. I have a few questions, to me it seems that the stock hot end (block and throat) are already metal so why does replacing with mentioned parts matter? Also if one puts back the PFTE does this not run into issues with heat? Or does the PTFE no longer run into the nozzle with new parts? Disclaimer I don’t even have a printer as of yet (on order) so my questions may be off topic.
Yeah the parts on both are metal but the stock parts allow the PTFE tube to go all the way to the nozzle and the after market one stops it at the very top. The top part of the copper part doesn't get up to the temps of the hot end.
@@randymay sorry for the question. How do i know how long the PTFE tubing has to be? And my second question, because i cant find an answer anywhere: do i have to disassambly the whole unit to change the PTFE tubing, because Elegoo recomends to do it monthly? Cant find a replacement one, only the one comes with the printer.
@@Chris0612 If you are upgrading to the all metal you need to cut it to about 30mm long. You don't have to take if fully apart you can just take the wires off the heat block and loosen the 1 grub screw on the back of the hotend to get the heat break out. If you do upgrade the hotend the you would need to change out the PTFE tube due to it not getting that hot any more.
Just verifying, "you would [NOT] need to change out the PTFE? And thanks for these comments, I may not have replaced the PTFE tubing otherwise 😅 since I couldn't see it on the new parts in the video. Btw, is it worth it to replace the tubing with a Capricorn Bowden one (have some extra lying around that I can cut to 30mm)?
@@LeeKenshin7 Also interested in the answer to this. I am assuming the PTFE tube can and probably should be added back in after its cut and yes, if you have Capricorn Bowden stuff then I would use that instead as its meant to be 'better'. @randymay can you confirm please :)
In the process of removing the thermister connector from my old heat block I also damaged the heat cartridge. Do you know where I can get a replacement for it or what the JST size is on that connector?
@@randymay Right, that's the new heat cartridge, that's easy to find. I was asking about the size of the connector that plugs into the hot end. The white connector.
Great Video! Quick question about the PTFE tube, is there a stop for the PTFE tube when I reinstall it? I was running into some issues because I may have cut my PTFE tube too short and it was moving in and out of the heat break. I tried running it without the PTFE all together and its damn near impossible to get the filament loaded.
There is a small lip on the new part to hold the PTFE tube and it's just held in place with pressure from the top of the head brake so if it's too short it will move around in there. You can buy some more PTFE tube and cut a new piece. I cut mine to 30mm but it might be different for you, that being said that would be a good starting point. Here is a link to some new PTFE amzn.to/3nChx5N
With all the items that I use it should be exactly the same but this seems to be a very common problem for a lot of people for some reason. Did you put the PTFE to back in if so did you cut it to the right length?
@Randy May. Reviewing your parts list. I noted that some of them are for Creality printers, perhaps the parts are all the same, it would be handy to be aware of that.. for the novice, details can matter.. Perhaps updating the notes or updating the video to be more specific on what parts maybe needed... Support for many of these printers seems hard to come by... and the clearer the information the better for all. This video is pretty good, but adding a few more details would not hurt either.. it's sort of scary to start repairing one's Elegoo printer.. so far other than some minor printing issues, I don't think I need to start changing parts, but one ever knows when it might be needed.. thanks
Hi there - was wondering how you would suggest proceeding as I have just opened the unit and noticed that a) the PTFE has become exposed slightly away from tubing, b) the whole unit head seems to have been decaying after only a few weeks of use, and c) I cant actually remove the heating rod....
So this will allow you to print using nylon but you are also going to need an enclosure to keep the heat in so the nylon doesn't warp. I have no idea what I meant by the right nozzle due to not having context or a time stamp to what I was saying. 😅👍
Title says $25 upgrade but like the guy I have none of the odd stuff so need to buy a whole pack of stuff 🤣will add everything from the description and do a stupidly large amazon order aha great video :)
How did you level the printer? My print head wants to return to zero and keeps jamming the nozzle into the print bed due to the parts being a different size
Awesome video!!!, just solve me If I do upgrades and print the Polymaker PA6 with the N3MAX that I am about to get. What was your experience with this fillament and the printer at 280°C?
I haven't really used it over 260cafter doing this to be honest. I would need a full enclosure for this full setup so I could print abs/asa and I have other fully enclosed prints that I can do that with right now. 😅👍
@@randymay do i need the thermistor or can i just have the hot end and the heat block thing really my only goal is to print with asa and i know i need the hot end
This may sound kind of weird but it looks like my block is sort-of bent so that the nozzle points forward a little.. is that ok? Also looks like I leaked on the first print :/ Mine also had a plastic tube type thing, should i put that back in? Also, any idea what size grub screws are used? I think i may have lost one.
You should heat up the heatbreak before removal, use a ligther or heatgun, mine becomes so loose you can unscrew it without tools, just don't burn yourself.
First, great tutorial. I'm in the middle of doing the same to my N3 plus. But I've run into an issue - with the new screws for the heater block, I find the block wiggles, because the screw holes are beveled, instead of straight walled like the original. I got the m2×16 screws, but mine are button-head. What kind are you using, and do you have the wiggle in the heater block?
Yeah you might get a little bit of wiggle in the block when trying to tighten down the nozzle due to how the setup is. That being said you can use some adjustable pliers to hold the block in place as you tighten up the nozzle and a little bit of movement that you have won't matter.
So you can technically not put those bolts in at all as long as you tighten down your nozzle snug against the heat break that's inside of the heat block that whole thing isn't going to go anywhere. Another point that you should make sure is nice and tight is the grub screw that holds in the heat break because if that is loose you'll be able to spend the entire thing.
@randymay if you're interested, I came up with a fix, for the wiggle. It's a little low-rent, but it works. All you need is a twist tie (like that comes wrapped around any power cord). Take the twist tie, make one loop around the shaft of the screw, under the head, and screw the screw in place. The twist tie acts as an o-ring, and takes up the space, and removes the wiggle. Now it's nice and tight 😎
Mine was clogged and after taking it apart there seems to be a small bit of filoment stuck farther up the pipe. It is just after the first wheal drawing it in. Do you have any ideas on how to get it out? I can shine a light through the top and see something up there but I have no idea on how to get it out
@@randymay Its working better now. Just trying to eliminate some banding that happens whenever a wall starts after a base or the start of a feature on a wall. Like if a hole or a letter imprint on a wall starts the first layer of it causes a horizontal band.
@@randymay Yeah, I know. But as a rookie solderer I'd prefer to spend a bit more for a ready-made solution. I already had to resolder connectors on the 5015 fans for the Hero Me Gen.7 cooling shroud (it works great btw.), so soldering two wires together also doesn't seem impossible anymore.
I have done this upgrade using all of the listed parts. I had great luck with PETG. When I use PLA/silk, I am getting not a jam perse, but I think my filament is catching in the throat of the heat break? When my print fails at some point and I remove the filament it is "chewed". Any ideas?
@@randymay So I think What I am running into is heat creep. Short prints under 5 hours are great with nearly materials (am still struggling with Silk PLA have tried 205-215 and still clogs or jams in the extruder). Long prints start to split and or clog. I did replace the PTFE @ 30mm. I am curious what you suggest for retraction and heat settings with the all metal hotend?
I'm happy that you liked the video. I know they all work because I bought all of it and tested it all to make sure it would work before I made the video haha.
So I was just trying it without it but found that it makes it a little bit harder to load if it's not in there so I did end up putting it back in. You do have to cut it to about 30 mm to work with the new setup.
@@randymay I would say yes there is significant risk as I'm not the only one impacted. I've tried two lengths of PFTE both within recommended spec and a short standard mk8 stock elegoo nozzle and both impact the bed without the inductive sensor triggering. As in REALLY impact the bed/push it down hard and then produce probing errors. The Z offset doesn't fix this issue i.e. increasing it doesn't stop it from occurring. I'm trying to find a Z endstop solution (not seeing one physically on the machine) or Marlin solution but from what I've read the inductive sensor only has a tolerance of a few mm so increasing the length beyond this means it's just not going to trigger.
@@johnpahos8063 I had the same problem but fixed mine by loosening the nozzle to have a bigger gap between it and the heat block, then screwed the heat brake in deeper.
I made these mods on my Neptune 3 Max and found that the heat break suggested had the thermistor on the opposite side. Now I finally have it all reassembled and I can’t get my filament to feed at all. Any suggestions?
Very nice! The temp range was the only thing that had me hesitatiing. What about temperatures above 280°C? Can you set 300°C as well by gcode on the new firmware?
According to Elegoo you can go up to 300° c on the newest firmware through g code. They did suggest not doing so due to the thermostat not being up to par even the one I show in this video isn't rated for that temperature. I did see some other ones online that are but they didn't have the same numbers as this thermistor so there might be some tweaks you have to do.
Hello my friend, first of all thank you for the great video you shared with us. I would like to ask you few more questions, I just got into 3d printing few months ago and I'm the average noob user so my questions might be silly: - I've read somewhere online that it is recommended to change the PTFE tube every month (i've never done it so far and have consumed 3KG of PLA so far), should I do that? If I upgrade the hotend like you in the video with the all-metal, that does not "burn" the PTFE anymore, so I should not replace that, is that correct? - Can you make also a video on how to dismount all the roller wheels in case they wear out? I was able only to reach and disassembly only the print-plate wheels, but probably the wheels on the print head I can dismount them after dismounting the print head, but what about the Z Axis? There's one wheel per side on the Z Axis I am not able to understand how to disassembly. Thank you so much in advance for your help man
@@johnpahos8063 No problems with ABL on my Neptune 3 PLUS, but I noticed that new hot end is longer than old one. I avoided hitting the bed with a nozzle by sending "M851 Z+3.0" command, so the nozzle would sit really high when leveling menu is accessed. New z-offset is -1.57 mm, old one was -2.33 mm.
My hotend screw is rounded, so I can't unscrew it. This printer is a pain since I am experimenting a lot of clogs, and now I can't even change the teflon tube. Any advice for solving this?
Is this your first printer? Also are you using the supplied Allen keys that came with it because they like to strip out if you can get your hands on some better quality ones you might still be able to get that screw out without having to drill it out. I'm assuming you're printing in pla but what temperatures are you using and how cold is the room that you're printing in.
So it's not absolutely needed I'm using it without but I find it a little harder to get the filament into the hot end. So I'm probably going to just open it up and put the PTFE tube back in there. You're going to want at least 30 mm.
@@randymay Thanks for the video. It's great to see that apparently parts for Creality fit in the Neptune. But if you still have to install the PTFE tube doesn't that contradict the modification as the whole idea was to get rid of the PTFE to run the printer at higher temperatures? Now it's still in there and wouldn't that prevent exactly that?
@@yo.marc.1 You can put the tube back in with no problem. The top of the heat break doesn't get as hot as the part at the nozzle. You will only need 30mm of PTFE tube. All this does now is help you swap out your filament and easily get it down the heat break. So in the end it will be up to you but it won't change how hot you can print at.
You should heat up the block before removing the heat break (so you don't break it) and also tighten the nozzle while it's at the highest temp you print at or you're going to have a leak.
So I took a propane torch to the stock heat block to try and get it off with no luck as well. That being said I know that the thread lock should weaken when hot but I had no luck.
As for tightening the nozzle fully when it's up to temp, that is how I normally change out any of my nozzles. I thought that was common knowledge but thinking about that more, I should have talked about that in the video seeing that people new to this wouldn't know that.
Anyways thanks for the comment and info. 😁👍
@@randymay Thanks for your update on Mark's first point and while I too only tighten nozzles when hot, your recognition of a novice's knowledge shows you do understand the point and why you should have commented about it. Well done, mate.
Thermal block costs 2$, not even 8. It is easyer to buy barrier and block together
@@randymay Don't use a blow torch, just heat the extruder as usual and then wiggle the heat breaker gently and then unscrew it.
Run a PID each time you mess around there.
as a newbie on 3d printers i made this mistake of not tightening it when it was hot, how much should u tighten it when its hot?
Dude thank you for making a video about this, I've been looking for a teardown / tutorial about how to replace the hot end on this printer for weeks, now I can upgrade my printer without having to worry if elegoo used some non standard parts. I'm also way more confident that ill be able to fix the printer if the nozzel ever gets clogged up. So overall thank you and I hope your channel gets the recognition it deserves in the 3d printer community because this video was very well made and very information.
Well thank you very much and I'm happy to hear that this video has been that helpful for you. 😁👍 If you want to help with growing the channel feel free to share any of my videos if you find them to be useful to others.
I didn't realize that the thermister was PTFE lined... I switched to a metal screw in one for easier maintenance if they go bad but now I'm extra happy I did that!
Hey man, your video was super helpful/insightful. Love how clear sounding your audio is, and your style of delivery is perfect - not draggy and straight to the point. Thanks!
Thanks and that is the goal of this channel for the most part. I've got sick of seeing videos that just waste your time and get to the point after 20 minutes.
I found that removing the 2 screws that hold fan shroud but waiting to disconnect the fan wires and remove the shroud until after you remove the whole assembly from the printer makes removing the fan wires then the fan shroud much easier. But thank you for the tutorial and the links for the parts. Very helpful
Legitimately this is what I've been looking for over the course of days. Thank you!
Yeah I've seen a lot of talk about it so I just took the plunge bought the stuff and did it. So hopefully this is helpful to a lot of people now and I'm happy that you were able to find the video. 😊👍
Here is the full list of the items that you might need to do this yourself:
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (4 Pack) - amzn.to/3ILv6bP
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (3 Pack) - amzn.to/3HjcPRN
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (2 Pack) - amzn.to/3kxLylX
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (Just 1) - amzn.to/3HjvfSp
Copperhead Heat Break C-E (If you are looking for a better quality heat break get this one) - bit.ly/Bimetallic-Heat-Break-Upgrade
Aluminum Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CKCIar
High Temp Plated Solid Copper Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CQVIUV
Stainless Steel M2 Bolts - amzn.to/3XmuRZ2
Stainless Steel Metric Bolt Assortment - amzn.to/3XKsuze
Thermistor 100k NTC 3950 M3 Stud - amzn.to/3QQ5M6q
Heat Shrink Tubing (If you are just going to just cut the old wire and solder it make sure to use something like this) - amzn.to/3D1mRV7
JST PH2.0 Connector kit ( To replace thermistor plug) - amzn.to/3J5lSan
JST PH2.0 Connector kit with Crimping Tool - amzn.to/3XHG1Hx
Micro Connector Pin Crimping Tool Only - amzn.to/3weB7pS
You might want to use some thermal paste to get better heat transfer but you don't have to:
Slice Engineering Boron Nitride Paste - amzn.to/3w15Bvw
If you're looking for the latest Elegoo firmware you can find it here - www.elegoo.com/pages/3d-printing-user-support
Links to Printers:
Elegoo Neptune 3 Max - bit.ly/NeptuneMax
Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus - bit.ly/Neptune-3-Plus
Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro - bit.ly/ElegooNeptune3Pro
Elegoo Neptune 3 Max (Amazon) - Coming Soon
Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus (Amazon) - amzn.to/3kbB0IN
Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (Amazon) - Coming Soon
3d Printer Filament That I Use:
PolyLite ABS - bit.ly/PolyLite-ABS
PolyLite ASA - bit.ly/PolyLite-ASA
PolyFlex TPU 95 (Flexable) - bit.ly/PolyFlex-TPU-95
PolyLite Silk PLA Blue - bit.ly/PolyLiteSilkPLABlue
NylonX Filament - bit.ly/MatterHackersNylonX
PolyTerra Marble PLA - bit.ly/PolyTerraMarblePLA
TECSONAR Tricolor PLA - amzn.to/3H79d5N
Build Series PLA - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeriesPLA
Build Series Silky PLA - bit.ly/BuildSeriesSilkyPLAMatterHackers
Build Series ABS - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeriesABS
Build Series PETG - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeriesPETG
PRO Series Filament - bit.ly/MatterHackersPROSeriesFilament
Amazon 3D Printing Filament:
PLA - amzn.to/3gsLE9Z
PETG - amzn.to/3pXjjvu
ABS - amzn.to/3wsTRjS
ASA - amzn.to/2RX8dtM
Polycarbonate - amzn.to/3cLdr38
Nylon - amzn.to/3iNGeI2
Editing & Camera Gear:
Canon EOS R - amzn.to/3ULd2AH
77in Tripod - amzn.to/3FICPFw
Studio Lights & Stands - amzn.to/3HqSGtv
Thermal Camera TOPDON TC001 - amzn.to/3HquffP
DJI Pocket 2 4K Handheld 3-Axis Gimbal - amzn.to/3UOqmVc
Accessories Kit for DJI Pocket 2 - amzn.to/3Waszeq
Video Editing Software - bit.ly/Wondershare-Filmora-Video-Editing
________________________________________________
Note : Most of the links that I use that go to products are affiliate link. This means I make a small commission on anything that you happen buy using them. This is at no extra charge to you and this helps support the work I do on this channel. 😁👍
________________________________________________
Any Canadian link?
Hi! Yours is the only tear down video i have come across, thanks so much for psoting it. Im having an issue whereby my neptune 3 pro direct drive kind of grinds the pla instead of extruding it. ITll start printing the buddah, but after maybe ten layers, it seems to grind rather than extrude. I had a major fail last night, the type where all the plastic gets up into the whole mechanism, and im wondering if it might have melted the plastic inside. So i'm ordering new pieces through your affiliate links. Do you know how i tear down the gears to clean them? Is that psossible?
Great info.
ALWAYS do a PID tune after making changes on the hotend (even just removing the silicone sock).
At 1:46 , you should apply a lot of thermal paste there. the whole copper(cold side) should be covered in thermal paste. Over time when its cold & heat up repeatedly the surface contact will have a gap. It might have filament heat creep & stringing soon. There is no way they can manufacture(heatbreak & heatsink) it with 0 tolerance. Unless its a 1 piece hotend like bambu. So thermal paste is necessary in modular hotend for heat transfer. DO NOT USE LIQUID METAL as paste. It will put hole in your aluminium heatsink. Use boron nitride for best performance. If it hard to get, you can use thermal grizzly kryonaut from most pc shop.
It will help extrusion & retraction become accurate. Meaning your print will become more beautiful just by applying thermal paste.
Yeah it would definitely help with heat transfer and I believe I said that you can add it if you like but I can't remember. I do have links to some in the description of the video.
Sorry dont quite understand where should the thermal paste go ?
I too have to go for this modification with all metal filament insertion eliminating that 'obnoxious plastic tube that has caused me considerable problems and not only to me. I have a Kobra first series and I have done several trials installing the Kobra2 extruder but in the end I was not successful. When I first insert the filament it goes through smoothly but at the time of printing it does not come out properly. Solutions? Thank you very much.
You are still going to want to put that tube back in there just to act as a guide it will work without it but it works a lot easier to align your filament down into the hot end after switching it out. You'll need to cut the tube down to about 30 mm
Nice video! I just got the N3pro for Christmas been working awesome but the screen lock up on me and the touch screen doesn’t work now..lot of people said to up the firmware..and thought you might want to make a video on that to help me and others out thanks
One of the best printer videos I have seen, saved for future use :)
Well I'm happy to hear that 😁👍
Thanks for this. Went with the Copperhead and copper block. Right now I just want the headroom this affords and the ability to print more exotic like material down the road. Appreciate the video. Thank you.
No problem and let me know how that all turns out
I know it's been ahile but I think I may have finally gotten it working well. I had intially taken it back out because I experienced clogging. Reinstalled it all and PID tuned, then ran an elaborate retraction file. Upped retractions from 2 to 3(.5?) and so far so good. Upped retraction speed as well from 60 to 120 and it works, the test said it would, but I'm still feeling that's high. Anyway, thanks again.
@@jayfc3 I noticed retraction issues after this upgrade as well and was able to drastically reduce hot end temperature. Did you see a similar effect?
Well I ended up having to try doing this on my printer, as the original had a major clog (Filled up the silicon cover and made that all useless.). Unfortunately, even with the snippet of the tubing, I couldn't get this to reliably feed the nozzle without it jamming up near the motor (Looks like it just binds up and bunches the filament up in the internals).
What material and temps are you printing at?
@@randymay just pla, 210. Its almost like it goes into the feed and scrapes the edges until it sticks and then the motor crumples the filament into itself.
Did you put the blue filament back in ?
Thank you so much for this. My 3D prints had started having more and more errors, so I took a look at the condition of the nozzle. It was ... unsatisfactory. I have new hot ends, a new heat block, M2 bolts, and different sizes of nozzles on the way, thanks to your advice. :)
My materials arrived today. Printer is happily printing a little happy Buddha (personally I always thought it was Budai since Siddhartha wasn't fat). I don't think I've ever fully disassembled and reassembled anything at this level of complexity before, and it's all thanks to you. Thank you so much.
I don't suppose you would happen to be able to help with this, but for some reason, my heat block is now covered in what looks like caramelized residue, as was the old one. Do you think my silicone heat cover may have partially melted somehow?
This was a lot of help. I recently broke off my nozzle when tightening it. Then I tried to use a screw extractor and cracked the whole block 🤦
This video helped me with the disassembly and it also gave me some tips when I'm gonna buy a new one.
Thanks for the great video
/Bo
Ps. The problem was a bulge in the filament so the extruder couldn't feed it in. I of course realized this efter I broke the nozzle.
@randymay hey man it turns out I accidentally ordered the wrong size of heat pipe thing. But I was able to just use a angle grinder to change the length.
Well I'm happy to hear that you're able to at least get it working and figure out what the problem was
yo you really saved my ass man. i lost a nozzle that broke off in the heat block i was loosing my mind, thank you
I'm happy I was able to help in around about way haha 👍
nozzle keep hitting the bed after this upgrade. ... do we need to adjust ABL sensor as well?
Make sure to measure all of your new parts and make sure that they're the same size as the original ones.
Just stick the heatblock on a gas stove, or heat reaaaly hot with a propane torch to melt up the thread locker...then unscrew so it won't snap off the thin neck of the heatblock
I used a torch and it didn't help and I didn't want to over do it and melt the aluminum
Thanks for the fantastic tutorial! I followed it to a tee, minus replacing the thermistor since once I did, my printer no longer detected one being present. After swapping to an all metal hot end though, filament no longer properly feeds through the printer. The gears grab it and pull it maybe a few centimeters before the filament stops being pulled through, despite the gears still spinning. Anyone have any idea for a fix?
in the same boat. What have you done so far?
That was an excellent video, short but to the point and well put together. Thanks!
Thanks 😁 happy to help
Yeah👌
Thanks a bunch dude! Very nicely done tut on how to do it and thank you so much for including a parts list!
Saves me a bunch of headache and time, superb!
Glad I could help! 😁👍
Every part is as advertised =) forgot to buy the damn screws tho, gotta wait a few more days xD dammit
DONT forget to buy the screws...apparently they are super uncommon in shops nowadays (at least where i live).
Right on point, AMAZING editing and very clear video, kudos to you sir! 🙂
Thanks 😁
@randymay Hey I followed the tutorial and got a new heatblock but I am haveing issues with my nozzle pushing into the bed when I try to auto level the printer. Any ideas?
This happens while it is returning to zero
If you can use some digital calipers and measure your heat block and your old heat block and make sure they're the same thickness other than that you need to make sure things are screwed in flush when it comes to the heat break into the heat block.
Ok thank you, I’ll try it and let you know how it works.
Ok
I made the upgrade (Neptune 3+) with the solid copper heat block, all Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium, and the ptfe tube. Halfway through a next print it blocked up and I had to take it apart again. What might have caused it with Elegoo PLA? Also, I am doing a flat print and the surface is now not as smooth as it was before the upgrade. Any thoughts what I am doing wrong?
UPDATE: I cannot get it to print successfully now. A print starts and after a while no more filament comes out. I am so frustrated. @randymay
This was a big help to me. However, when I go to remove the tiny screws from the new heat block to replace them, the screws strip right away and I cannot get them out. Any idea on how to fix that?
Thanks!
Added these mods to my Neptune 2s and they work great. Getting ready to do this on my 3 Plus soon. Does the PTFE tube serve any feeding function in the Neptune 3 printers? The upgraded heatbreaks don't have the deep "cutout" for the tubing to be inserted, but there is a little bit. In the video, you seem to leave it out entirely, so I'm guessing you no longer need it at all. Just wondered if it should be cut shorter. When the filament is loaded, it won't bind in the direct drive system?
So the PTFE tube does help when loading the filament so if you cut it down to about 30mm it fits back in there and helps.
@@randymay thank you!
I've done the upgrade. I manually leveled my bed and hit out level and the printer screen is stuck on booting. any idea what I did wrong? is this why I need to do that PID tune?
Clear and concise. However, have you investigate either the Volcano style hot end or the multi-port nozzles? I am keen to print faster rather than print hotter.
Thanks and I haven't really looked into different hot end setups for this. I know that if your doing to print faster you are going to want more heat to keep up with the flow of the filament.
Are there any upgrade thermistors that come pre-equipped with the proper connector. I'm not the most technical person in the world and while I think I could make it work I'd be willing to pay a few dollars extra for the peace of mind.
I wasn't able to find any with the proper connector but cutting the original wires and soldering this on was very easy to be honest
Do you have a tutorial for doing the thermistor wire clips?
I don't
Heya, question when reassembleing do you put a ptfe tube in the heatbrake like when before modding? It wasnt shown in the video at 1:46
Auch ich muss mich für diese Modifikation mit Ganzmetall-Filamenteinführung entscheiden, um das unangenehme kleine Plastikröhrchen zu eliminieren, das mir erhebliche Probleme bereitet hat, und nicht nur mir. Ich habe einen Kobra der ersten Serie und habe verschiedene Tests durchgeführt, indem ich den Kobra2-Extruder installiert habe, aber am Ende war ich nicht erfolgreich. Wenn ich das Filament zum ersten Mal einführe, geht es problemlos durch, aber wenn ich drucke, kommt es nicht richtig heraus. Gibt es Lösungen? Ich danke Ihnen vielmals.
Hi. Excellent vid. Just a tad confused when it comes to the ptfe tube, did you or did you not put it back in with the new hot end? Thanks
In the video I didn't put it back in and as you saw it worked but I did put it in later. You do need to cut it down to about 30mms due to it no longer going all the way down to the nozzle.
@@randymay thanks so much for the reply. V much appreciated. I’ve just had the Neptune 3 Max for a few weeks and I’m so nervous taking something that big and expensive apart, but your video is so reassuring.
Thanks again.
Would you have a video on the settings you use for the Max and Plus? I don't see a profile for them in Cura.
I don't but you can download the Elegoo version of Cura and get all that info if you like. Here is the link drive.google.com/file/d/1fLB4Z-bNiXrswew_Bic5BTAtMd5Ku3U6/view
The 2 bolts (allen head) holding the heater block to the hot end assembly, what size are those? Most of the allen head bolts to remove the fan assembly and the hot end were 2mm, but these two INSIDE the heater block appear to be smaller? Even smaller than the 1.5mm allen I had. Very confused here...
I honestly don't remember 😅
Great video. I want that boba fett STL!
Thanks very much. Well done.
Do you have a video that shows how to adjust the Z-offset anywhere?
Do you have a video on how to use the Neptune 3 (plu) anywhere for newbies?
Thanks.
I don't have any videos showing how to use the z-offset but I think it can be found under leveling or tuning when printing.
Hello my friend. Thanks for your video. I have a little question for you. How can I increase the nozzle max temperature using software? I want to print at 300 degrees with my printer.
According to Elegoo if you update the firmware to the newest one you can print at higher temps
I have not found a single person who has successfully got the firmware to go over 260c. I spent a lot of time and money trying.
Have you switched to a larger nozzle? If so, what settings did you change to?
I did used a 0.8mm nozzle and all I did was use the default profile and changed the nozzle size in the slicer. I did fine that I needed to mess with the retraction a bit due to it under extruding a lot but that was it.
This video is super well done and perfectly concise, thank you! Quick question, you mentioned using an enclosure, which is what I want to do for my N3 Pro, but I know it’s recommended to move the PSU outside the enclosure for most printers, is that the case here? Or can the stock PSU hold up in the hotter environment? Thank you again!
Yeah it is always best to keep the PSU cooler but you really don't have to worry about it in my experience. Typically the enclosures get to around 100° f .
@@randymay oh awesome thank you!
It would be so cool if you did a series fully upgrading the Neptune 3 max to the ultimate large high temperature printer 😅
Yeah that would be cool but also very time consuming. That being said I might need to get it setup to print ASA and Nylon for a large project I'm wanting to do for the channel.
Elegoo should just sell the components as an after purchase upgrade.
Hello I have aittle question because I'm not 100 percent sure about it. You mentioned using thermal paste on the description. Where to use it if I may ask? Sorry if its obvious I'm new to it and wanna learn as much as possible. Thank you
Around the copper part that goes into the heat sink
@@randymay thank you very much
Hi, when you replace the heat block (high end one) & the All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium, did you also replace or upgrade the Bowden tube?
You don't have to upgrade it but you do have to cut it down to about 30mm
@@randymay Thank you
Thanks for this! Had already ordered the heatbreak and block from your previous video, looking foreword to putting everything in action soon! Based on your measurements from the last video, I've ordered some 2020 extrusion and connectors to build the enclosure frame. I've got a pre-cut 32" x 42" plywood base to build everything on.
Very nice let me know how all that stuff turns out once everything comes in. 😁👍
hello, so you don't have to put the ptfe tube back with the bi-metal? (i'm french, my english is very not perfect, and the automatic traduction too ;) )
You really should put the PTFE tube back in but you will have to cut it down to about 30mm long in total
@@randymay thanks you
@@randymay will there be problems if you dont?
It makes it really hard to load your filament in for one. Some people say that it will cause under extrusion as well not having a smooth clean path but I haven't seen that when printing without it. But if you're doing this you already have the PTFE tube just cut it and put it in and you'll pretty much never have to replace it unless you wear a hole in it
@@randymay thank for the details ;)
You can use the Ender 3s1 pro 300c thermistor, but it seems to require drilling into the heat block.
Good to know.
Black & Decker were bought out years back by DeWalt. You could use the same batteries on either brand, thought that was funny. Not sure if it is still this way. It was about 25 yeas back.
Why do you it need the blue tube on the new one? The metal parts are the same length? I just ordered all these pieces, but want to make sure I understand it all. Thanks!
You can use it without the blue tub but it will make it harder to load the filament. I suggest cutting the tube to about 30mm long and put it back in and you will be fine.
Where are the parts you mentioned would be in the description down below, particularly the 0.4mm filament heeded name, model#, seller?
Here is the full list of the items that you might need to do this yourself:
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (4 Pack) - amzn.to/3ILv6bP
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (3 Pack) - amzn.to/3HjcPRN
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (2 Pack) - amzn.to/3kxLylX
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (Just 1) - amzn.to/3HjvfSp
Copperhead Heat Break C-E (If you are looking for a better quality heat break get this one) - bit.ly/Bimetallic-Heat-Break-Upgrade
Aluminum Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CKCIar
High Temp Plated Solid Copper Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CQVIUV
Stainless Steel M2 Bolts - amzn.to/3XmuRZ2
Stainless Steel Metric Bolt Assortment - amzn.to/3XKsuze
Thermistor 100k NTC 3950 M3 Stud - amzn.to/3QQ5M6q
Heat Shrink Tubing (If you are just going to just cut the old wire and solder it make sure to use something like this) - amzn.to/3D1mRV7
JST PH2.0 Connector kit ( To replace thermistor plug) - amzn.to/3J5lSan
JST PH2.0 Connector kit with Crimping Tool - amzn.to/3XHG1Hx
Micro Connector Pin Crimping Tool Only - amzn.to/3weB7pS
You might want to use some thermal paste to get better heat transfer but you don't have to:
Slice Engineering Boron Nitride Paste - amzn.to/3w15Bvw
If you're looking for the latest Elegoo firmware you can find it here - www.elegoo.com/pages/3d-printing-user-support
Thank you for the tutorial!
When fusing the thermistor cables, do i have to look after the polarity?
Thanks and it doesn't seem to matter which cable goes to what wire.
With the upgrade are you still using the PTFE tube? It doesn't look like that gets installed on the new copper head.
It makes it a lot easier if you do install it again but you do have to cut it down to be about 30 mm long it pretty much acts as a guide
@@randymay Thank you. Will the base PTFE be enough for the extra heat you would be putting it all through?
It will be fine because it wouldn't be all the way down in the heat block anymore.
Great video, I followed along and replace the parts in my N3+ but now, even after leveling the nozzle is pressing on the bed. One attempt after level to print and now there is a nice scratch/groove on the build plate (Ouch) any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong? Leveling completes with the paper test looking ok Z offset is 1.81 which seems high. Thanks in advance
Nevermind, I think I've got it fixed, at the expense of needing a new textured bed loo Permanent Benchy groove now. :)
@vJoeG-Vids whatd you do to fix it or whatd you do differently than just setting it to auto level?
@@calebwaller454 I had the heatbreak screwed in all the way vs 50/50 Heat break and Nozzle. Also I had some PTFE tubing in the heatbreak forgetting that it was all metal. Once that was sorted out I'm back up and running.
Thanks for the video! I would like to know please: will all these changes and parts work in a Neptune 3?…I really want to upgrade one of my N3 to be able to print ASA…thanks in advance if you can answer this question!
Yeah you should be able to use these on that printer as well.
How long is the PTFE tube?
For my setup I cut it down to 30 mm long.
By default there a small cut of tube inside the hot end. Do you not need to add that piece with this heat break? Shouldn't there still be a tube pressing against the bottom of the heat break?
The point of this is to remove that tube from the hottest part of the hotend assembly. You can cut the default tubing down to about 30mm in length and put it back in to make it easier for the filament to get to the top of the heat break.
Is there a heater block that you know of that'll fit a Neptune 3 pro that can take a V6 nozzle?
No that I know without having to make some custom stuff.
How did you make the bimetal hotend snug on the all copper heat block? There's a lot of play unless if i screw it completely in, but then the heat block is sitting on the extruder.
Another great video. keep up the great work.
Well thank you and that's the plan haha 😁👍
do you think it is possible to mount a volcano V6 system? to increase the volumetric flow
Well technically yeah you could do just about anything to these but it's going to take some retrofitting and design work to make that work. 😅
What about laser heads can this printer do laser cutting and engraving? Thx!
I have seen people put laser heads on 3D printers that being said I have never done it.
I can not removed the fans, they are just stuck from the connection area. Is there a tab I’m not holding down I’m using the tweezers and everything like in the video
Why do you need a replacement thermistor? Can you use the old one if you don't want to print high temp?
Also can you use the old silicone sock on the new block
Yeah you can use the old one if you aren't going to print too hot. You should be able to use the sold silicone sock still
Hi mate, because the Heat block sits lower as you used m2 x 16mm screws do you have to adjust the z end stop to compensate as I have the N3P printer that has no bed thumb screws to adjust? Thanks
But the thing is it doesn't sit any lower. The block that I used didn't have holes in the block as deep as the original one so I needed longer bolts to make up for that. The new heat block and break are the length in every other way so there should be no problem with bed clearance.
@randymay ok thanks for your reply mate
thanks for the vid. i tried this but if i fully insert the heatbreak into the block.. the nozzle wont be able to fully inserted.. and on the otherhand, if i fully insert the nozzle on the black. the heatbreak wont be able to be fully inserted... how did you manage to fix it?
The threads on the heat break are flush with the heat block and the nozzle is just as far as I can get it in and it all just worked
@@randymay you mean the nozzle is not fully inserted and the heatblock is fully inserted?
Yeah I still had a few threads showing.
Very interesting video and well presented.
I have a few questions, to me it seems that the stock hot end (block and throat) are already metal so why does replacing with mentioned parts matter?
Also if one puts back the PFTE does this not run into issues with heat? Or does the PTFE no longer run into the nozzle with new parts?
Disclaimer I don’t even have a printer as of yet (on order) so my questions may be off topic.
Yeah the parts on both are metal but the stock parts allow the PTFE tube to go all the way to the nozzle and the after market one stops it at the very top. The top part of the copper part doesn't get up to the temps of the hot end.
@@randymay sorry for the question. How do i know how long the PTFE tubing has to be?
And my second question, because i cant find an answer anywhere: do i have to disassambly the whole unit to change the PTFE tubing, because Elegoo recomends to do it monthly? Cant find a replacement one, only the one comes with the printer.
@@Chris0612 If you are upgrading to the all metal you need to cut it to about 30mm long. You don't have to take if fully apart you can just take the wires off the heat block and loosen the 1 grub screw on the back of the hotend to get the heat break out.
If you do upgrade the hotend the you would need to change out the PTFE tube due to it not getting that hot any more.
Just verifying, "you would [NOT] need to change out the PTFE?
And thanks for these comments, I may not have replaced the PTFE tubing otherwise 😅 since I couldn't see it on the new parts in the video. Btw, is it worth it to replace the tubing with a Capricorn Bowden one (have some extra lying around that I can cut to 30mm)?
@@LeeKenshin7 Also interested in the answer to this. I am assuming the PTFE tube can and probably should be added back in after its cut and yes, if you have Capricorn Bowden stuff then I would use that instead as its meant to be 'better'. @randymay can you confirm please :)
In the process of removing the thermister connector from my old heat block I also damaged the heat cartridge. Do you know where I can get a replacement for it or what the JST size is on that connector?
amzn.to/3XZYmj3
@@randymay Right, that's the new heat cartridge, that's easy to find. I was asking about the size of the connector that plugs into the hot end. The white connector.
@@Whamola The 2 pin connector is the one in this kit amzn.to/3KLtqzU
Question for ya... Do you still run a shortened PTFE tube?
Yes, cut it down to 30mm
This is so incredibly helpful. Thank you so much for making this video.
No problem and I'm happy to hear that it was helpful. 😁
Great Video! Quick question about the PTFE tube, is there a stop for the PTFE tube when I reinstall it? I was running into some issues because I may have cut my PTFE tube too short and it was moving in and out of the heat break. I tried running it without the PTFE all together and its damn near impossible to get the filament loaded.
There is a small lip on the new part to hold the PTFE tube and it's just held in place with pressure from the top of the head brake so if it's too short it will move around in there. You can buy some more PTFE tube and cut a new piece. I cut mine to 30mm but it might be different for you, that being said that would be a good starting point.
Here is a link to some new PTFE amzn.to/3nChx5N
@@randymay thank you so much! I’ll give it a shot!
The nozzle now being lower than the inductive sensor doesn't cause any trouble?
With all the items that I use it should be exactly the same but this seems to be a very common problem for a lot of people for some reason. Did you put the PTFE to back in if so did you cut it to the right length?
@Randy May yeah I put ptfe back on for a cleaner filament path, but I cut it to fit, it isn't lowering the heat break any.
Send me some pictures of the setup to randymaybusiness@gmail.com I will see if I can help
@Randy May. Reviewing your parts list. I noted that some of them are for Creality printers, perhaps the parts are all the same, it would be handy to be aware of that.. for the novice, details can matter.. Perhaps updating the notes or updating the video to be more specific on what parts maybe needed... Support for many of these printers seems hard to come by... and the clearer the information the better for all.
This video is pretty good, but adding a few more details would not hurt either.. it's sort of scary to start repairing one's Elegoo printer.. so far other than some minor printing issues, I don't think I need to start changing parts, but one ever knows when it might be needed.. thanks
Yeah the Creality parts I listed fit the Elegoo printer in the video
Hi there - was wondering how you would suggest proceeding as I have just opened the unit and noticed that a) the PTFE has become exposed slightly away from tubing, b) the whole unit head seems to have been decaying after only a few weeks of use, and c) I cant actually remove the heating rod....
When you say with the right nozzle, I'm guessing you mean a larger one? Totally new to this 😬 also would this upgrade allow the use of nylon filament?
So this will allow you to print using nylon but you are also going to need an enclosure to keep the heat in so the nylon doesn't warp. I have no idea what I meant by the right nozzle due to not having context or a time stamp to what I was saying. 😅👍
Title says $25 upgrade but like the guy I have none of the odd stuff so need to buy a whole pack of stuff 🤣will add everything from the description and do a stupidly large amazon order aha great video :)
How did you level the printer? My print head wants to return to zero and keeps jamming the nozzle into the print bed due to the parts being a different size
Honestly everything should be around the same size. I guess measure everything you have and see if something's off by a lot.
Awesome video!!!, just solve me If I do upgrades and print the Polymaker PA6 with the N3MAX that I am about to get. What was your experience with this fillament and the printer at 280°C?
I haven't really used it over 260cafter doing this to be honest. I would need a full enclosure for this full setup so I could print abs/asa and I have other fully enclosed prints that I can do that with right now. 😅👍
I have not seen anyone successfully getting this firmware to go over 260c. I don't think it's possible.
@@s0d4c4nI tried everything possible but still not going over 260c
I updated the firmware and still not going over 260
Do you know if this would work the same for the neptune 3 just the regular one???
Yes it does I don't know about the thermistor setup but the hot end part does they are exactly the same parts.
@@randymay do i need the thermistor or can i just have the hot end and the heat block thing really my only goal is to print with asa and i know i need the hot end
You don't need it to do that.
This may sound kind of weird but it looks like my block is sort-of bent so that the nozzle points forward a little.. is that ok? Also looks like I leaked on the first print :/ Mine also had a plastic tube type thing, should i put that back in? Also, any idea what size grub screws are used? I think i may have lost one.
Bent isn't good and it's leaking? That is a really big problem for sure. I think the Grub screws are M2
@@randymay Perhaps the screws are overtightened pulling the block at an angle?
So i wound up dropping the whole end from 6 feet up and smashing it. Elegoo support is really nice though and are sending another.
@@randymay Any idea what size JST connector they use? I bought a set and it doesn't have one that quite matches.
You should heat up the heatbreak before removal, use a ligther or heatgun, mine becomes so loose you can unscrew it without tools, just don't burn yourself.
I don't have the Iwiss IWS-3220M crimper, but I already have the SN-01BM. Does that work?
Honestly I have no idea 😅
I heard if you do this you need to run a PID tune. Is this true? And any video on how to do the PID tune.
Yeah you should do some PID tuning but I don't have a video about it. I'm sure you can find something about this on RUclips.
First, great tutorial. I'm in the middle of doing the same to my N3 plus. But I've run into an issue - with the new screws for the heater block, I find the block wiggles, because the screw holes are beveled, instead of straight walled like the original. I got the m2×16 screws, but mine are button-head. What kind are you using, and do you have the wiggle in the heater block?
Yeah you might get a little bit of wiggle in the block when trying to tighten down the nozzle due to how the setup is. That being said you can use some adjustable pliers to hold the block in place as you tighten up the nozzle and a little bit of movement that you have won't matter.
@randymay ok, cool. How much play in the block is acceptable? I mean, it's not swinging around, but it doesn't take much to wiggle it.
So you can technically not put those bolts in at all as long as you tighten down your nozzle snug against the heat break that's inside of the heat block that whole thing isn't going to go anywhere. Another point that you should make sure is nice and tight is the grub screw that holds in the heat break because if that is loose you'll be able to spend the entire thing.
@randymay if you're interested, I came up with a fix, for the wiggle. It's a little low-rent, but it works. All you need is a twist tie (like that comes wrapped around any power cord). Take the twist tie, make one loop around the shaft of the screw, under the head, and screw the screw in place. The twist tie acts as an o-ring, and takes up the space, and removes the wiggle. Now it's nice and tight 😎
Mine was clogged and after taking it apart there seems to be a small bit of filoment stuck farther up the pipe. It is just after the first wheal drawing it in. Do you have any ideas on how to get it out? I can shine a light through the top and see something up there but I have no idea on how to get it out
Was able to get it out with some finagling. Now just to test the machine to se if I messed anything else up.
How is everything working now?
@@randymay Its working better now. Just trying to eliminate some banding that happens whenever a wall starts after a base or the start of a feature on a wall. Like if a hole or a letter imprint on a wall starts the first layer of it causes a horizontal band.
Is there meanwhile a compatible brass stud thermistor with the right connector?
Nope, but it's not hard to cut your old one and solder it to it like I did.
@@randymay Yeah, I know. But as a rookie solderer I'd prefer to spend a bit more for a ready-made solution. I already had to resolder connectors on the 5015 fans for the Hero Me Gen.7 cooling shroud (it works great btw.), so soldering two wires together also doesn't seem impossible anymore.
I have done this upgrade using all of the listed parts. I had great luck with PETG. When I use PLA/silk, I am getting not a jam perse, but I think my filament is catching in the throat of the heat break? When my print fails at some point and I remove the filament it is "chewed". Any ideas?
Did you put the PTFE tube back in and what temperature are you printing at?
@@randymay I skipped the PTFE tube as you did in the video. 215 for 1st layer and 210 from there on PLA Silk.
Try putting the tube back in. You will have to cut it to fit. It needs to be 30mm long. Let me know if that fixes the problem
@@randymay So I think What I am running into is heat creep. Short prints under 5 hours are great with nearly materials (am still struggling with Silk PLA have tried 205-215 and still clogs or jams in the extruder). Long prints start to split and or clog. I did replace the PTFE @ 30mm. I am curious what you suggest for retraction and heat settings with the all metal hotend?
One question as i finally ordered the parts: How do i know how far i have to screw the heatbreak in?
You just want it flush with the top of the threads
Amazing video dude!! one questiion. how you know what parts fit hot end? i mean how do you know that ender 3 parts fits n3p?
I'm happy that you liked the video. I know they all work because I bought all of it and tested it all to make sure it would work before I made the video haha.
Does thus make it so you don't need the ptfe tube at all now?
You don't need it but it does help a lot to keep it. You do have to cut it down to about 30mm long
@@randymay can I print at the higher temps with it still? I'm aiming for 300 degrees
I have a question do you forget to put the PTFE tube back ?
So I was just trying it without it but found that it makes it a little bit harder to load if it's not in there so I did end up putting it back in. You do have to cut it to about 30 mm to work with the new setup.
Is there any work you need to do with the bed leveling sensor since your nozzle is sticking out so much further?
I didn't have to do anything different after swapping it out.
@@randymay I would say yes there is significant risk as I'm not the only one impacted. I've tried two lengths of PFTE both within recommended spec and a short standard mk8 stock elegoo nozzle and both impact the bed without the inductive sensor triggering. As in REALLY impact the bed/push it down hard and then produce probing errors. The Z offset doesn't fix this issue i.e. increasing it doesn't stop it from occurring. I'm trying to find a Z endstop solution (not seeing one physically on the machine) or Marlin solution but from what I've read the inductive sensor only has a tolerance of a few mm so increasing the length beyond this means it's just not going to trigger.
@@johnpahos8063 I had the same problem but fixed mine by loosening the nozzle to have a bigger gap between it and the heat block, then screwed the heat brake in deeper.
I made these mods on my Neptune 3 Max and found that the heat break suggested had the thermistor on the opposite side. Now I finally have it all reassembled and I can’t get my filament to feed at all. Any suggestions?
Very nice! The temp range was the only thing that had me hesitatiing. What about temperatures above 280°C? Can you set 300°C as well by gcode on the new firmware?
According to Elegoo you can go up to 300° c on the newest firmware through g code. They did suggest not doing so due to the thermostat not being up to par even the one I show in this video isn't rated for that temperature. I did see some other ones online that are but they didn't have the same numbers as this thermistor so there might be some tweaks you have to do.
@@randymay Maybe, Can I use Ender 3 S1 Pro thermistor?
@@priaposcompany9342 idk
I have not found a single person who has been able to successfully set the firmware over 260c. I've wasted a lot of time and money trying.
@@s0d4c4n do you think replacing the motherboard with the new 4 max or using the max4 firmware to update the max3 will work ?
Hello my friend, first of all thank you for the great video you shared with us. I would like to ask you few more questions, I just got into 3d printing few months ago and I'm the average noob user so my questions might be silly:
- I've read somewhere online that it is recommended to change the PTFE tube every month (i've never done it so far and have consumed 3KG of PLA so far), should I do that? If I upgrade the hotend like you in the video with the all-metal, that does not "burn" the PTFE anymore, so I should not replace that, is that correct?
- Can you make also a video on how to dismount all the roller wheels in case they wear out? I was able only to reach and disassembly only the print-plate wheels, but probably the wheels on the print head I can dismount them after dismounting the print head, but what about the Z Axis? There's one wheel per side on the Z Axis I am not able to understand how to disassembly.
Thank you so much in advance for your help man
If you upgrade the hot end to what I did you won't need to change out the tube pretty much ever unless you wear a hole in it.
Do I have to replace the ptfe tubing on the inside or can I just leave that out?
You can leave it out but it making loading filament a lot harder. I did put it back in but you have to cut it down to about 30mm long.
Did you not having any problem with the abl? My nozzle pushes into the bed and after 37 of 49 points (N3+) I get 'Probing failed'...
I don't have any problem with that at all. My setup is the same size as the stock one.
@@randymay I had the same issue with ABL as you did. Very dangerous. See my comment above...still looking for some type of solution.
@@johnpahos8063 No problems with ABL on my Neptune 3 PLUS, but I noticed that new hot end is longer than old one. I avoided hitting the bed with a nozzle by sending "M851 Z+3.0" command, so the nozzle would sit really high when leveling menu is accessed. New z-offset is -1.57 mm, old one was -2.33 mm.
Except the easier load, can you leave the PTFE tube out?
You can if you like
@@randymay would it have any adverse effects? I think about a possible gap between PTFE and the rim, trapping filament? Or is this unfounded?
My hotend screw is rounded, so I can't unscrew it. This printer is a pain since I am experimenting a lot of clogs, and now I can't even change the teflon tube. Any advice for solving this?
Is this your first printer? Also are you using the supplied Allen keys that came with it because they like to strip out if you can get your hands on some better quality ones you might still be able to get that screw out without having to drill it out.
I'm assuming you're printing in pla but what temperatures are you using and how cold is the room that you're printing in.
The PTF tubing is still needed; correct? How much of the PTF tubing are you cutting off?
So it's not absolutely needed I'm using it without but I find it a little harder to get the filament into the hot end. So I'm probably going to just open it up and put the PTFE tube back in there. You're going to want at least 30 mm.
@@randymay Thanks for the video. It's great to see that apparently parts for Creality fit in the Neptune. But if you still have to install the PTFE tube doesn't that contradict the modification as the whole idea was to get rid of the PTFE to run the printer at higher temperatures? Now it's still in there and wouldn't that prevent exactly that?
@@yo.marc.1 You can put the tube back in with no problem. The top of the heat break doesn't get as hot as the part at the nozzle. You will only need 30mm of PTFE tube. All this does now is help you swap out your filament and easily get it down the heat break.
So in the end it will be up to you but it won't change how hot you can print at.