You should get in touch with Forward Motion performance. In the mid to late 90s I played with an 85 turbo z Daytona and on their recommendations I used one of their cams with mp injectors and computers and a few other items. It would run upper 14s in most air. It was very little work for the return. The mp computer set the boost at around 11psi which the n/a lower end will not survive for long. Great videos!
I have heard of them, I may see if they have some injectors for me. Running any amount of boost on an NA bottom end is sketchy, those connecting rods are twigs
Awww, that's a bummer man...but I have much to say about what I saw! It looks like you're very good about logging. Have you been logging your fuel pressure? Also, are you running the high compression head? If so, you might have been detonating and indeed might have broken a piston. My blue 1991 Shadow was a stock Turbo 1 2.5, and I added an intercooler and raised the boost to 14 PSI. It was regularly lifting tires off in 2nd and 3rd, even though I was still using the stock Mitsubishi turbo. Megasquirt was probably the right answer for converting an NA EFI system to a turbo system, but I fear that it added way too many variables. High flow Mopar injectors should be pretty easy to find, and the upside is that the mixture math has been done to death already. Roughly speaking, a stock intercooled turbocharged 2.5 in the P body should do a quarter in about 14.5. (As in, using the bog-standard intercooler found in these Turbo Dodge's.) Sooo, I think something was wrong. The head gasket looks like the bad-type Fel-Pro. They made one with metal reinforcement around the water jackets. It's like a toggle switch. The ones without the metal reinforcement fail, and the ones with the reinforcement don't. ARP studs are a good option, but the stock bolts are really darn strong. The "Fail-Pro" is the weak point. If you know someone at an AutoZone, ask for them to be ordered and returned until they have the reinforcement. Also, I have THREE 1991 Dodge Spirit R/T's. These cars are supposed to be the shit!! The only one that's actually a solid runner and also a powerful performer had the Turbo-III removed and a standard 8v 2.5 installed in its place. There's a point where these projects get super frustrating. The platform is amazing, even if this one is giving you trouble. Don't be afraid of the TurboDodge.com forums. The veterans there have seen and done stuff I never would have dreamed of doing.
I'm running what I believe is called the 782 swirl head. I lowered the compression of the head a little by grinding out some of the combustion chamber. I'm pretty sure like you said it's a a broken ringland even though it looks OK from the top. I did actually get the improved gasket you mentioned the second time I changed it, but I didn't show it in the video. The Mitsubishi turbo is also pretty laggy, it takes a while between shifts to spin up. Megasquirt does have flat-foot shift support, and I think that will help with the quarter mile time drastically. I'm surprised at the strength of these engines, however I don't particularly enjoy working on them. Being a reverse flow head and having the turbo way down behind the engine along with the intake manifold and axles in the way makes any turbo service a bear. Apart from that and the cooling issues, they're very solid engines indeed. The next step for me is ripping out the whole harness and starting over. I'm going to tuck most of it into the fenders and make it clean. Changing the pistons will be easy, I'm not going to bother with removing the block. I'm definitely going to be upgrading to forged, though. That along with higher quality injectors, ARP studs, a coolant re-route, and a better gasket I should be golden.
@@HatersGarage That exact thing happened to a guy I knew on his turbo LS... big time $$$! I recommed the Cometic Gaskets, search for them, have one running on my 1985 Lebaron 2.5 now... They are a serious gasket, check'em out!
@@djcybercorgi If you're using this for racing, definitely go cometic. Obviously, get your head and block deck planed first. I was just thinking, my LeBaron's cracked pistons also put visible stress on the gasket. Perhaps it was steam expansion or just more boost compensating for less compression...not sure. This video series is exactly what I had hoped to make but never got around to. I wanted to show the whole process, trials and tribuations, of turning a basic New Yorker into a monster sleeper. I lack the discipline for a video project that big. I'll keep watching like a hawk for updates! Oh, and you might consider posting this video in the SDAC group on Facebook if you haven't already. (I don't remember seeing it there.) I don't think I've ever heard anyone describe the Mitsu as "pretty laggy". In fact, "violent" is the term most people use. I'm not sure what could be making it lag. Is your exhaust *too* wide open? I've heard rumors that the turbine doesn't want to spin up if the exhaust gases expand after the exhaust wheel outlet, which causes refrigeration. though I don't know if that's any more than a rumor. These blocks can be coaxed to produce irresponsible levels of power. I look forward to every step you post!
Going to have any updates on this build? I'm going to have 2 turbo mopars from the 90's eventually but right know I have 1 with a built SOHC 2.5l turbo with A413 trans I find parts for it from Cindy @ fwd performance in Texas. I would check the head and do bigger valves port them out with a die grinder.
It was the injectors man, too much fuel, I would of said you needed about 600-750cc injectors at most, I mean that's just my guess but I hope you come back to this car.
You CANNOT turbo a non-turbo engine in these cars. The rods, pistons and bearings in these can't handle much past 150 horsepower. Also the heads are restrictive AF in these and don't flow at all. Find a factory turbo motor from a Shadow, Daytona, Sundance or Omni and drop it in and you'll need the computer too. The turbo motors are capable of 12's for dirt cheap without touching the block. I've been messing with these cars for two decades. You're welcome.
@@HatersGarage Aww damn, were they forged pistons? Do you tune with a wideband A/F? I tuned my car to run safe at around 11.5 at WOT, I popped a follower off one of my valves and was down a cylinder. The old engine builder built a sweet forged motor, but put a SLIDER cam in a roller setup! Love my 2.5! Hope you fix it man!
Well this reminds me of thinking I could make a dodge aries fast when I was 15 out ran my buddies firebird one time and one time only then proceeded to blow up and sprayed his bird my windshield and that was all she wrote 😅but theyre very comfortable while you wait 😂
@@HatersGarage kinda want to find me another one but wagon and kswap or throw a jseries in make it a reliable comfortable old car those K cars are great track cars if they could have only put a better power train in them I feel they be more liked
@@HatersGarage they do make a great lil drag engine but if was to build one again using stock engine I'd throw the cooling system off a Evo or subaru with some modifications I think it be the way to go
@garydryden9574 well the reason they don't cool well is because of the block design. You have to add a coolant hose out of a freeze plug or cylinder #4 cooks alive
It was probably the Subaru flywheel bolts that cursed you lol. In all seriousness tho, I really like your videos! Straight to the point, no bullshit
Thanks, yeah no more Subaru parts, it's bad karma.
fursuit shoes and jeans is a level of yee yee I didn't even know was possible
He's back 🔥🔥🔥
You should get in touch with Forward Motion performance. In the mid to late 90s I played with an 85 turbo z Daytona and on their recommendations I used one of their cams with mp injectors and computers and a few other items. It would run upper 14s in most air. It was very little work for the return. The mp computer set the boost at around 11psi which the n/a lower end will not survive for long. Great videos!
I have heard of them, I may see if they have some injectors for me. Running any amount of boost on an NA bottom end is sketchy, those connecting rods are twigs
dam that sucks! looking forward to the summer!
Awww, that's a bummer man...but I have much to say about what I saw! It looks like you're very good about logging. Have you been logging your fuel pressure? Also, are you running the high compression head? If so, you might have been detonating and indeed might have broken a piston. My blue 1991 Shadow was a stock Turbo 1 2.5, and I added an intercooler and raised the boost to 14 PSI. It was regularly lifting tires off in 2nd and 3rd, even though I was still using the stock Mitsubishi turbo. Megasquirt was probably the right answer for converting an NA EFI system to a turbo system, but I fear that it added way too many variables. High flow Mopar injectors should be pretty easy to find, and the upside is that the mixture math has been done to death already. Roughly speaking, a stock intercooled turbocharged 2.5 in the P body should do a quarter in about 14.5. (As in, using the bog-standard intercooler found in these Turbo Dodge's.) Sooo, I think something was wrong.
The head gasket looks like the bad-type Fel-Pro. They made one with metal reinforcement around the water jackets. It's like a toggle switch. The ones without the metal reinforcement fail, and the ones with the reinforcement don't. ARP studs are a good option, but the stock bolts are really darn strong. The "Fail-Pro" is the weak point. If you know someone at an AutoZone, ask for them to be ordered and returned until they have the reinforcement.
Also, I have THREE 1991 Dodge Spirit R/T's. These cars are supposed to be the shit!! The only one that's actually a solid runner and also a powerful performer had the Turbo-III removed and a standard 8v 2.5 installed in its place. There's a point where these projects get super frustrating. The platform is amazing, even if this one is giving you trouble. Don't be afraid of the TurboDodge.com forums. The veterans there have seen and done stuff I never would have dreamed of doing.
I'm running what I believe is called the 782 swirl head. I lowered the compression of the head a little by grinding out some of the combustion chamber. I'm pretty sure like you said it's a a broken ringland even though it looks OK from the top. I did actually get the improved gasket you mentioned the second time I changed it, but I didn't show it in the video. The Mitsubishi turbo is also pretty laggy, it takes a while between shifts to spin up. Megasquirt does have flat-foot shift support, and I think that will help with the quarter mile time drastically.
I'm surprised at the strength of these engines, however I don't particularly enjoy working on them. Being a reverse flow head and having the turbo way down behind the engine along with the intake manifold and axles in the way makes any turbo service a bear. Apart from that and the cooling issues, they're very solid engines indeed. The next step for me is ripping out the whole harness and starting over. I'm going to tuck most of it into the fenders and make it clean.
Changing the pistons will be easy, I'm not going to bother with removing the block. I'm definitely going to be upgrading to forged, though. That along with higher quality injectors, ARP studs, a coolant re-route, and a better gasket I should be golden.
@@HatersGarage Having a wideband gauge in the car is a must, always start pig rich at like 10.0 AFR and work your way up... Great videos man!
@@djcybercorgi A/F ratio looked good; I think it may have slightly hydro locked with coolant when the gasket went, taking the piston along with it.
@@HatersGarage That exact thing happened to a guy I knew on his turbo LS... big time $$$!
I recommed the Cometic Gaskets, search for them, have one running on my 1985 Lebaron 2.5 now... They are a serious gasket, check'em out!
@@djcybercorgi If you're using this for racing, definitely go cometic. Obviously, get your head and block deck planed first. I was just thinking, my LeBaron's cracked pistons also put visible stress on the gasket. Perhaps it was steam expansion or just more boost compensating for less compression...not sure.
This video series is exactly what I had hoped to make but never got around to. I wanted to show the whole process, trials and tribuations, of turning a basic New Yorker into a monster sleeper. I lack the discipline for a video project that big. I'll keep watching like a hawk for updates! Oh, and you might consider posting this video in the SDAC group on Facebook if you haven't already. (I don't remember seeing it there.)
I don't think I've ever heard anyone describe the Mitsu as "pretty laggy". In fact, "violent" is the term most people use. I'm not sure what could be making it lag. Is your exhaust *too* wide open? I've heard rumors that the turbine doesn't want to spin up if the exhaust gases expand after the exhaust wheel outlet, which causes refrigeration. though I don't know if that's any more than a rumor.
These blocks can be coaxed to produce irresponsible levels of power. I look forward to every step you post!
Try welding the head on the block ?
Make more videos please, keep at it.
It’s HIM!……THE VENGEANCE, THE NIGHT, THE BATMAN!!!!
So those Subaru bolts on the clutch blew the head gasket... lol
Foreshadowing lol
Cometic gasket + head studs = fine
sadness
did you try turning it off and on again
Going to have any updates on this build? I'm going to have 2 turbo mopars from the 90's eventually but right know I have 1 with a built SOHC 2.5l turbo with A413 trans I find parts for it from Cindy @ fwd performance in Texas. I would check the head and do bigger valves port them out with a die grinder.
Yeah I've got it running again, needs a little more work still though
Soooo the Subaru part DID blow your head gasket 😫
Unfortunately, yes. Actually broke 2 pistons as well.
@@HatersGarage damn that's a bummer
now that's an intro
Good vid
Fuckin hell man. I know im late but what a pile of annoyance and frustration on this one.
It was annoying, but I learned a lot from it. I haven't posted anything on the build lately but It's running again now.
I sub i love you
It was the injectors man, too much fuel, I would of said you needed about 600-750cc injectors at most, I mean that's just my guess but I hope you come back to this car.
I knew you shouldn’t have used Subaru parts.
Damn... I'm sorry to see it broke... I hope you can get it working again soon.
It's alive and well once again
@@HatersGarage excellent!!!
You CANNOT turbo a non-turbo engine in these cars. The rods, pistons and bearings in these can't handle much past 150 horsepower. Also the heads are restrictive AF in these and don't flow at all. Find a factory turbo motor from a Shadow, Daytona, Sundance or Omni and drop it in and you'll need the computer too. The turbo motors are capable of 12's for dirt cheap without touching the block. I've been messing with these cars for two decades. You're welcome.
Did you check the valves on cylinder 4 in case either of them are stuck?
Yes. I'm 99.99% sure it's a broken ringland.
@@HatersGarage Aww damn, were they forged pistons? Do you tune with a wideband A/F?
I tuned my car to run safe at around 11.5 at WOT, I popped a follower off one of my valves and was down a cylinder. The old engine builder built a sweet forged motor, but put a SLIDER cam in a roller setup! Love my 2.5! Hope you fix it man!
@@djcybercorgi They were cast t2 pistons. I had my A/F ratio set to 11 - 11.5 and about 17 degrees of timing.
@@HatersGarage What boost again? Damn cast pistons!
@@djcybercorgi 22 PSI
Well this reminds me of thinking I could make a dodge aries fast when I was 15 out ran my buddies firebird one time and one time only then proceeded to blow up and sprayed his bird my windshield and that was all she wrote 😅but theyre very comfortable while you wait 😂
They are very comfortable cars to wait on the tow truck in, good thing too hah
@@HatersGarage kinda want to find me another one but wagon and kswap or throw a jseries in make it a reliable comfortable old car those K cars are great track cars if they could have only put a better power train in them I feel they be more liked
@@garydryden9574 The engines in these make fantastic drag racing engines, but they're not great for circuit racing. Reason being they don't cool well.
@@HatersGarage they do make a great lil drag engine but if was to build one again using stock engine I'd throw the cooling system off a Evo or subaru with some modifications I think it be the way to go
@garydryden9574 well the reason they don't cool well is because of the block design. You have to add a coolant hose out of a freeze plug or cylinder #4 cooks alive
الدعم طايح
Fucking Subaru!