To add a few small things... A good alternative for the art store Water Based Acrylics, for anybody worried about getting proper ratios: Citadel (Famous for the Warhammer 40k table top miniatures game) and Vallejo make Inks/Washes that do the same thing. They come already mixed, and in *dozens* of colours! Simple cleanup too, being water based. They also have a great 'Technical' line that are *awesome* for doing weathering (rust, verdigris, dust, soot), textures (like built up mud or grease, or other fluids), and I find Citadel's "Waystone Green"/"Soulstone Blue"/Spiritstone Red" are great for doing lenses on guns/heads! The top coat isn't really all that necessary for protection w/Tamiya (but it does help for the capillary action, and is more of a grantee). The carrier solvent in it just needs proper time to evaporate. The majority of the time I find people that have problems with breaking either slather it on and leave it to dry before cleaning, or they put it onto assembled parts, and it ends up seeping in between them where it cannot evaporate properly. Both leave the solvent in contact with the plastic longer than it needs to be and that will start eating away at the plastic. (That said, If Tamiya is the only option, I would absolutely seal ABS plastics first. Folks can check the runner info tab for that. But I'd rather use the alternates mentioned at the beginning) And thinner isn't really the best cleaner to use, as the thinner can also cause fracturing over time. Light fluid or 91% isopropyl alcohol are safer for the plastics Bandai use in these kits. All in all, good, informative video for pretty much all levels! ^_^
"The majority of the time I find people that have problems with breaking either slather it on and leave it to dry before cleaning" I dont get it. Isn't that the proper way to do it? Leaving it to dry before cleaning it up. Or do you mean leaving it to dry for far too long?
@@ryo5210 Using too much. It's not a wash (look to Citadel or Vallejo paints for that). Tamiya Panel liner is meant to be applied to just the lines. Shake the *ish out of it to make sure the pigment is properly distributed throughout the solvent, then dab the tip to one panel line (as G does in the video), and let it do it's magic. Ideally the only cleanup you should ever really have with it is of any spots from where you touched it to the part.
@@dust_bin_gaming7319 gracias por el tip amigo me sirve mucho lo que dices ya que acabó de adquirir el panel line tamiya,solo tengo una pregunta como cuanto tiempo debo dejar que el panel line deje reposar en le plástico?
@@josephhernandez5586 So long as you don't put to much on, just let it dry. If you follow the instructions, and vids like G's here, and use it correctly, all should be fine.
Thanks for the video! There's one thing I would add about the Tamya accent: must wait at least 24 hours after top coating because when the varnish is not well cured it can still absorb the ink. Then when you do the cleaning it will get removed, together with your panel lines and the coloring underneath, if you did any. I use the airbrush, so anyone can imagine my pain after all the work, seeing everything I've done getting removed...
So thankful that you are coming back to this channel I know you have probably a bunch of people asking for videos I think an in-depth scribing video would be helpful thanks 🙏🏾👍🏾
@@dust_bin_gaming7319 I tried doing a top coat on the weapons for my MG QAN[T] Full Saber, but it made the decals smear, the panel lining run, and to top it off it looks super frosted and nasty.
Rather than acrylic paint you can use something like an opaque acrylic ink product. Generally speaking it's already at the consistency you want and it will flow in the panel lines.
Citadel and Vallejo make these types. ^_^ But, I think the use of the big thing of paint is more for cost effectiveness. Can make a whole lot more, for less, doing it this way, than buying an equivalent amount of pre-mixed inks, usually.
I haven't tried it, but I think if you have an airbrush you can add some flow aid to the acrylic wash and it will behave much more like the tamiya panel liner. It works by lowering the surface tension of the liquid, so it will flow through the cracks much more smoothly.
Careful with the brushes dude! if you get any paint/ink/liner inside the ferrule (the metal piece that the bristles are crimped into), it can dry inside the ferrule and cause the bristles to splay out/spread, ruining the brush tip. Rule of thumb, never dip your brush more than 50%, maximum 75% into the paint/ink/liner. Vajello & Citadel inks/contrast/technical paints I have loads of, I haven't tried them but will definitely give them a go!
One additional suggestion is if you like acrylic paint: acrylic ink like liquitex. It's like acrylic paint but already at the thinness you want and it's much denser in pigment. It's also exceptionally cheap, particularly for common colors like black and browns used in calligraphy (which is actually why I had it around in the first place). I apply it with a narrow brush and let it sit for 20 minutes or so and the excess usually comes off easy with a paper towel (or under more extreme cases, a tiny amount of solvent on a small brush first). Because it comes in a dropper bottle it's easy to avoid wasting it. A lot of times I can go over most of an entire kit with just like 2-3 drops in a plastic pan and I feel like I've never actually run a pot dry.
A very good vid. I picked up a pot of Tamiya panel liner yesterday and am about to give it a go (just finished gloss varnishing the model now) so thought I’d check some vids on it first👍 Here we go… 😬
I've been on the fence between choosing pour type gundam markers or the Tamiya for a few weeks now. How'd it go? Any problems like cracking or breaking? Did you add another layer of topcoat after panel lining?
What about cleaning up the panel lining after painting? Wouldn’t thinners or water ruin the paint coat underneath. Or is there a better order of operations to paint the models?
Apply the panel liner after the base paint is completely cured -- overnight is best. Let it dry a bit, then use thinner or mineral spirits on a cotton ball or bud to wipe off the excess. Some people use lighter fluid, but the other stuff is cheaper, and less flammable. Here's a good video: ruclips.net/video/pRBUQBrsO0Y/видео.html
How common is cracking with Tamiya panel liner fluid? Is it more common with the polystyrene plastic vs stuff made from ABS? I've used it on several kits without any top coating, and have been fortunate enough to not experience any weakness, or cracks...
I experienced cracking recently, even using the top coating. However, I think this happened for two reasons: I wasn't good enough to do proper panel scribing, so my lines were really deep into the plastic. Second is that I was trying to panel lining pieces painted in black with a white paint for the lines and to do that, I poured a lot of the panel line accent color, so I think this excess together with the deep scribing I did was the cause of the cracking.
@@douglasrodrigues5878 It would be the excess use. The solvent doesn't have proper time to evaporate if it pools in large amounts or gets between parts. That's the main reasons damage happens, if found from all accounts of it i've read.
If used properly (not in excess like a wash, or letting it pool up. And applying to individual parts so it doesn't get trapped between them), it has near 0 risk. I've the same experience, and everyone i've read of having no problems, adhere to that same general principal. I.E. 'use in moderation'. ABS though, I would probably still seal, unless you can find the ABS specific Liner (I've only seen online). For completely 0 risk, I just use stuff like Citadel or Vallejo washes, thinned down just a tiny bit more to help flow. All water based, so no risk of cracking. And super easy cleanup, too!
After experiencing the cracking where parts form a natural seamline (poor poor feet :< ), I came to use the tamiya while it is still on the runner. You could do a combination where you look through the kit and mark the runner parts that would make a seam, do those first and leave the face parts for after. Though not much difference doing them first.
@@OvAeons This is another good method to help prevent damaging parts. Pretty much guaranteed to not get 'between parts'(and take longer for the solvent to evaporate)! ^_^
Why do you need to Top Coat the pieces when using the Tamiya Panel Line? Is there something in the panel line that weakens the plastic? I just didn't know i would have to disassemble completed models to do the panel lining. I only got interested in panel lining after completing the model build.
Ayyy, glad to see you posting again on this channel. Would absolutely love to see you do a tutorial on how you do LED work specially when you would make your own battery boxes that fit into the gundam kits. Great work.
I really appreciate these videos. I've been building for a long time but was too scared to paint hoping I wouldnt ruin an expensive kit. I think I'll give it a shot now. Just one question, will you be going over resin kits and how to prep them? Paint them? Where to get them? I'd like to push the kits as far as I can. Thank you for these videos!
I am using Tamiya panel liner and testors enamel thinner I let the panel liner dry over night but it still washes away my panels when I go to clean up. I'm drying my cotton swab and brushing vary lightly but they still wash away.
I painted a Stuka with Vallejo acrylic and used a gloss varnish. I didn't like the shine, so I wet sanded and recoated with a matte varnish. I then used Tamiya black liner and waited about 30 mins. It stained the paint and would not come off. I used a wet paper towel to remove but no avail. At this point, would thinner still work??
So I use Vallejo acrylics and top coat with Vallejo varnish. I’ve attempted using tamiya and using enamel thinner to clean up but it’s easily removed my base coat before? Any suggestions?
Hi! Thank you for this tutorial. I'd like to ask: should I use the pencil, could a layer of top coat help drawing the lines (because of its "grip")? And, could a second layer be useful to protect panel lining (pencil or ink or whatever)?
There are areas on the pieces where a raised part bumps out from the plate underneath, but there are no grooves in the plastic. I have tried using the Tamiya Panel liner inks here, but they don't really work. My friend has started adding his own very light/small grooves into these areas with a chisel, but I would love to know what all the options are. I don't have a chisel set yet, and ordered some type of pens that were recommended on the subreddit - Copic maybe? Coptic? Something like that. Anyways, I'd love to see the different options here, explained in the sweet, dulcet tones of your voice. :P
I have used the Tamiya on my Warhammer Tau miniatures after priming them with white spray. The black first ran through the lines as intended, but then somehow dissipated in the plastic or surface of the model, leaving everything very stained and the lines were not black anymore. Do you have to apply varnish before using it?
I have a question for using the Tamiya panel line black do you need to spray that coat on all the time before using it on a blank piece or did you just spray that for extra precautions?
never tested it, but acrylic seems the safest option. I've been using the Tamiya one on plain parts and it brittled a couple of pieces on two kits (Gundam Virtue and Zaku Lunamaria), one piece on the Zaku actually broke (I understand it is because of the plastic and the manufacturing process and molding and the plastic having micro breakings that are normally not easily visible and the enamel breaks in and could break the pieces.. but nevertheless, it's a bum)
Will I be fine buying MG kits without panel lining? I just started and bought two RG kits. I am planning to buy MG nexts and do the panel lining later when I know better. 🤣
Im new to the hobby. Im lovin it. Your videos have been such a big help. Hopefully one day i can afford stuff like mgex. Ty for your tutorials! The decal one helped so much!
Built 2 kits so far. Panel lined both with the pour type gundam markers and flat top coated with Tamiya afterwards. In both cases the panel lines seemed to get smudged after applying the top coat. I waited about 24h between the steps so I figured it must have cured by that time. Is there anything I do wrong or would the tamiya panel line accent be resistant to the solvent in the top coat? Should I switch to a different top coat? 🤔
I would like to know this as well. Anecdotally I have heard that it doesn't because it was specifically made for Gunpla as opposed to Tamiya liner which is general purpose
How many gloss coats do you recommend before panel lining? 😇 and is another coat of gloss after panel lining necessary before putting on decals? Thanks!
Love this very educational video. Loved every minute. Definitely helpful in my Gunpla journey. Keep up the good work, and successful Gundam experiences. 🙏 😁 👍 🤖 👾
Should I coat with gloss or semi gloss for tamiya accents and then use matte Can someone explain the step by step for airbrushing to panel lining please? Thank you
HI! noob here lol, i already painted (hand brush btw) my SD barbatos using mr aqueoueous i tried using gundam panel line marker and cleaned it up using qtip and the aqueous thinner and ended up ruining the paint. There are many types of panel liner out there and i 'm wondering which to use so it wont ruin the base paint. Any suggestions please and thankyou!
Doesnt the enamel thinner remove some of the lacquer or enamel paint if you painted the kits before panel lining? I messed up a painted kit using the enamel thinner on the panel lines which is why i am asking. Love the tutorials and all the content. Thank you!
In one of his old videos on StudioG he said to always use a different paint for your panel lining to your base paint. For example if you're using an acrylic or lacquer as a base paint them for your panel line you can go for enamel or any kind of paint as long as they are not acrylic or lacquer and vice versa. If you're using enamel for your base paint then go for acrylic or lacquer paint as your panel lining this will help you a lot because when you do the cleanup then you won't accidentally clean up your base paint as well
Where did he use this? If you mean in general, from other people.. It's not any 'liner' that I've seen, but more like the black acrylic paint he used with thinner. There are numerous brands that make fluorescent paints (only glows under UV light, like a black light), and Glow In The Dark (charged by any light source, and fades over time).
To add a few small things...
A good alternative for the art store Water Based Acrylics, for anybody worried about getting proper ratios: Citadel (Famous for the Warhammer 40k table top miniatures game) and Vallejo make Inks/Washes that do the same thing. They come already mixed, and in *dozens* of colours! Simple cleanup too, being water based. They also have a great 'Technical' line that are *awesome* for doing weathering (rust, verdigris, dust, soot), textures (like built up mud or grease, or other fluids), and I find Citadel's "Waystone Green"/"Soulstone Blue"/Spiritstone Red" are great for doing lenses on guns/heads!
The top coat isn't really all that necessary for protection w/Tamiya (but it does help for the capillary action, and is more of a grantee). The carrier solvent in it just needs proper time to evaporate. The majority of the time I find people that have problems with breaking either slather it on and leave it to dry before cleaning, or they put it onto assembled parts, and it ends up seeping in between them where it cannot evaporate properly. Both leave the solvent in contact with the plastic longer than it needs to be and that will start eating away at the plastic. (That said, If Tamiya is the only option, I would absolutely seal ABS plastics first. Folks can check the runner info tab for that. But I'd rather use the alternates mentioned at the beginning)
And thinner isn't really the best cleaner to use, as the thinner can also cause fracturing over time. Light fluid or 91% isopropyl alcohol are safer for the plastics Bandai use in these kits.
All in all, good, informative video for pretty much all levels! ^_^
I personally use artisan grade mineral spirits to clean up Tamiya liner and haven't had issues with it. I also don't leave it on too long.
"The majority of the time I find people that have problems with breaking either slather it on and leave it to dry before cleaning"
I dont get it. Isn't that the proper way to do it? Leaving it to dry before cleaning it up. Or do you mean leaving it to dry for far too long?
@@ryo5210 Using too much.
It's not a wash (look to Citadel or Vallejo paints for that). Tamiya Panel liner is meant to be applied to just the lines. Shake the *ish out of it to make sure the pigment is properly distributed throughout the solvent, then dab the tip to one panel line (as G does in the video), and let it do it's magic. Ideally the only cleanup you should ever really have with it is of any spots from where you touched it to the part.
@@dust_bin_gaming7319 gracias por el tip amigo me sirve mucho lo que dices ya que acabó de adquirir el panel line tamiya,solo tengo una pregunta como cuanto tiempo debo dejar que el panel line deje reposar en le plástico?
@@josephhernandez5586 So long as you don't put to much on, just let it dry. If you follow the instructions, and vids like G's here, and use it correctly, all should be fine.
Thanks for the video! There's one thing I would add about the Tamya accent: must wait at least 24 hours after top coating because when the varnish is not well cured it can still absorb the ink. Then when you do the cleaning it will get removed, together with your panel lines and the coloring underneath, if you did any.
I use the airbrush, so anyone can imagine my pain after all the work, seeing everything I've done getting removed...
Thanks for the tips!
I have heard that before applying the top coat, you need to use a scribing too on the panel lines, is that true?
So thankful that you are coming back to this channel I know you have probably a bunch of people asking for videos I think an in-depth scribing video would be helpful thanks 🙏🏾👍🏾
Do you plan to make a tutorial on topcoats? I figured out the panel lining and decals, but I can't seem to get the top coat right.
What sort of difficulties are you running into with them?
@@dust_bin_gaming7319 I tried doing a top coat on the weapons for my MG QAN[T] Full Saber, but it made the decals smear, the panel lining run, and to top it off it looks super frosted and nasty.
If it helps, I used Tamiya Matte top coat, I couldn't find any Mr. Hobby matte top coat at the store I was shopping at
@@dust_bin_gaming7319 i suppose you applied top coat at a humid weather?
@@dust_bin_gaming7319 Can I apply gloss top coat while the parts are still on the runners?
Rather than acrylic paint you can use something like an opaque acrylic ink product. Generally speaking it's already at the consistency you want and it will flow in the panel lines.
Citadel and Vallejo make these types. ^_^ But, I think the use of the big thing of paint is more for cost effectiveness. Can make a whole lot more, for less, doing it this way, than buying an equivalent amount of pre-mixed inks, usually.
I haven't tried it, but I think if you have an airbrush you can add some flow aid to the acrylic wash and it will behave much more like the tamiya panel liner. It works by lowering the surface tension of the liquid, so it will flow through the cracks much more smoothly.
Can you make a tutorial on how you make your water fall spray booth please 🌟
Careful with the brushes dude! if you get any paint/ink/liner inside the ferrule (the metal piece that the bristles are crimped into), it can dry inside the ferrule and cause the bristles to splay out/spread, ruining the brush tip.
Rule of thumb, never dip your brush more than 50%, maximum 75% into the paint/ink/liner.
Vajello & Citadel inks/contrast/technical paints I have loads of, I haven't tried them but will definitely give them a go!
One additional suggestion is if you like acrylic paint: acrylic ink like liquitex. It's like acrylic paint but already at the thinness you want and it's much denser in pigment. It's also exceptionally cheap, particularly for common colors like black and browns used in calligraphy (which is actually why I had it around in the first place). I apply it with a narrow brush and let it sit for 20 minutes or so and the excess usually comes off easy with a paper towel (or under more extreme cases, a tiny amount of solvent on a small brush first). Because it comes in a dropper bottle it's easy to avoid wasting it. A lot of times I can go over most of an entire kit with just like 2-3 drops in a plastic pan and I feel like I've never actually run a pot dry.
Oil paint + white spirit works wonderfully, you just have to wait a real long time for it to fully dry.
The residue of the pencil makes great weathering for cannons
Love these G Academy videos! Keep up the good work.
A very good vid. I picked up a pot of Tamiya panel liner yesterday and am about to give it a go (just finished gloss varnishing the model now) so thought I’d check some vids on it first👍
Here we go… 😬
I've been on the fence between choosing pour type gundam markers or the Tamiya for a few weeks now. How'd it go? Any problems like cracking or breaking? Did you add another layer of topcoat after panel lining?
What is your preference to do first, to apply water slides first or panel line first?
Thank you for making more tutorial videos!
What would be your choice of color to panel line for black plastic
What about cleaning up the panel lining after painting? Wouldn’t thinners or water ruin the paint coat underneath. Or is there a better order of operations to paint the models?
Apply the panel liner after the base paint is completely cured -- overnight is best. Let it dry a bit, then use thinner or mineral spirits on a cotton ball or bud to wipe off the excess. Some people use lighter fluid, but the other stuff is cheaper, and less flammable. Here's a good video: ruclips.net/video/pRBUQBrsO0Y/видео.html
How common is cracking with Tamiya panel liner fluid? Is it more common with the polystyrene plastic vs stuff made from ABS? I've used it on several kits without any top coating, and have been fortunate enough to not experience any weakness, or cracks...
I experienced cracking recently, even using the top coating. However, I think this happened for two reasons: I wasn't good enough to do proper panel scribing, so my lines were really deep into the plastic. Second is that I was trying to panel lining pieces painted in black with a white paint for the lines and to do that, I poured a lot of the panel line accent color, so I think this excess together with the deep scribing I did was the cause of the cracking.
@@douglasrodrigues5878 It would be the excess use. The solvent doesn't have proper time to evaporate if it pools in large amounts or gets between parts. That's the main reasons damage happens, if found from all accounts of it i've read.
If used properly (not in excess like a wash, or letting it pool up. And applying to individual parts so it doesn't get trapped between them), it has near 0 risk. I've the same experience, and everyone i've read of having no problems, adhere to that same general principal. I.E. 'use in moderation'.
ABS though, I would probably still seal, unless you can find the ABS specific Liner (I've only seen online).
For completely 0 risk, I just use stuff like Citadel or Vallejo washes, thinned down just a tiny bit more to help flow. All water based, so no risk of cracking. And super easy cleanup, too!
After experiencing the cracking where parts form a natural seamline (poor poor feet :< ), I came to use the tamiya while it is still on the runner. You could do a combination where you look through the kit and mark the runner parts that would make a seam, do those first and leave the face parts for after. Though not much difference doing them first.
@@OvAeons This is another good method to help prevent damaging parts. Pretty much guaranteed to not get 'between parts'(and take longer for the solvent to evaporate)! ^_^
When you put Tamiya spray paint on the parts and you do panel lining, will the paint disappear when you put enamel paint thinner?
I use melamine sponge when cleaning panelines it doesn't clean the panelines but also give a matte look to my kits
Thanks for the tips! I have heard that before applying the top coat, you need to use a scribing too on the panel lines, is that true?
Why do you need to Top Coat the pieces when using the Tamiya Panel Line? Is there something in the panel line that weakens the plastic? I just didn't know i would have to disassemble completed models to do the panel lining. I only got interested in panel lining after completing the model build.
Ayyy, glad to see you posting again on this channel. Would absolutely love to see you do a tutorial on how you do LED work specially when you would make your own battery boxes that fit into the gundam kits. Great work.
Excellent video, I’m just barely thinking about starting a build and this gave a lot of confidence
I really appreciate these videos. I've been building for a long time but was too scared to paint hoping I wouldnt ruin an expensive kit. I think I'll give it a shot now.
Just one question, will you be going over resin kits and how to prep them? Paint them? Where to get them? I'd like to push the kits as far as I can. Thank you for these videos!
I use SD grade kits to explore my panel lining skills 😃😃
I am using Tamiya panel liner and testors enamel thinner I let the panel liner dry over night but it still washes away my panels when I go to clean up. I'm drying my cotton swab and brushing vary lightly but they still wash away.
Subscribed! Wish I saw this earlier... put Tamiya liner on a bare HG Aerial and a piece cracked.
I use Vallejo air paints, and shine with gazuzy gloss, can I use this tamiya accent over the gazuzy gloss without eating my paints?
I find citadel contrast paints pretty good for panel lining
Just a question, is the fine tip marker the same as ultra thin tip?
I painted a Stuka with Vallejo acrylic and used a gloss varnish. I didn't like the shine, so I wet sanded and recoated with a matte varnish. I then used Tamiya black liner and waited about 30 mins. It stained the paint and would not come off. I used a wet paper towel to remove but no avail. At this point, would thinner still work??
So I use Vallejo acrylics and top coat with Vallejo varnish. I’ve attempted using tamiya and using enamel thinner to clean up but it’s easily removed my base coat before? Any suggestions?
Hey! How do you panel line and clean up over a custom paint job you just did???
How did you miss inks and oil paints? They work like the tamiya one. Loved your style and video editing. Gl.
My MGSD Freedom had several white piece cracks on the forearm T.T using tamaiya panel liner and enamal thinner. Soo devastated…
Hi!
Thank you for this tutorial. I'd like to ask: should I use the pencil, could a layer of top coat help drawing the lines (because of its "grip")?
And, could a second layer be useful to protect panel lining (pencil or ink or whatever)?
Very informative. Thank you for sharing 👍 😊
There are areas on the pieces where a raised part bumps out from the plate underneath, but there are no grooves in the plastic. I have tried using the Tamiya Panel liner inks here, but they don't really work. My friend has started adding his own very light/small grooves into these areas with a chisel, but I would love to know what all the options are. I don't have a chisel set yet, and ordered some type of pens that were recommended on the subreddit - Copic maybe? Coptic? Something like that.
Anyways, I'd love to see the different options here, explained in the sweet, dulcet tones of your voice. :P
Has anyone used trad artists oil paints for Gunpla panel lining? What kind of results did you get?
If I am using Tamiya panel lining, should I wait for 1 hour to ensure it has dried and start to clean up the intended section?
Great video again! Keep it up
Do you wear mask when using Tamiya Accent Panel? Are fumes safe to inhale?
I have used the Tamiya on my Warhammer Tau miniatures after priming them with white spray. The black first ran through the lines as intended, but then somehow dissipated in the plastic or surface of the model, leaving everything very stained and the lines were not black anymore. Do you have to apply varnish before using it?
I have a question for using the Tamiya panel line black do you need to spray that coat on all the time before using it on a blank piece or did you just spray that for extra precautions?
Can i use lacquer thinner instead of the enamel thinner? Fyi i used lacquer paint on the kit.
Excellent vid. Thank you.
Interesting tips, very useful, Thanks, love your stuff
what about red what panel liner colour should i use
never tested it, but acrylic seems the safest option.
I've been using the Tamiya one on plain parts and it brittled a couple of pieces on two kits (Gundam Virtue and Zaku Lunamaria), one piece on the Zaku actually broke (I understand it is because of the plastic and the manufacturing process and molding and the plastic having micro breakings that are normally not easily visible and the enamel breaks in and could break the pieces.. but nevertheless, it's a bum)
Did u use it with a thinner to clean up or was it just tamiya liner?
Will I be fine buying MG kits without panel lining? I just started and bought two RG kits. I am planning to buy MG nexts and do the panel lining later when I know better. 🤣
Im new to the hobby. Im lovin it. Your videos have been such a big help. Hopefully one day i can afford stuff like mgex. Ty for your tutorials! The decal one helped so much!
If you're using the Tamiya panel liner, can you just clear coat the parts while they are still on the runner?
Does it matter if you panel line or put on water stickers first?
when cleaning the artline marker can i use alcohol?
Built 2 kits so far. Panel lined both with the pour type gundam markers and flat top coated with Tamiya afterwards.
In both cases the panel lines seemed to get smudged after applying the top coat. I waited about 24h between the steps so I figured it must have cured by that time.
Is there anything I do wrong or would the tamiya panel line accent be resistant to the solvent in the top coat? Should I switch to a different top coat? 🤔
Can i use panel line after finish build?
What about gundam marker pour type, does it make the plastic crack?
I would like to know this as well. Anecdotally I have heard that it doesn't because it was specifically made for Gunpla as opposed to Tamiya liner which is general purpose
@@KyralRetsam both types of markers are apparently horrendous for abs plastic.
I have a question on color pairing. I have a kit that's turquoise/green so what would be a good color to panel line it with?
I would lean towards black or dark brown
How many gloss coats do you recommend before panel lining? 😇 and is another coat of gloss after panel lining necessary before putting on decals? Thanks!
is nail polish thinner basically the same as x20?
Love this very educational video. Loved every minute. Definitely helpful in my Gunpla journey. Keep up the good work, and successful Gundam experiences. 🙏 😁 👍 🤖 👾
Is it mandatory to apply topcoat first before applying Tamiya accent panel liner?
Will paint work the same as top coats against brittleness, when using Tamiya linners?
What top coat did you use for the Tamiya panel liner?
is the gundam marker safe for breakage ?
Cool bro! Thanks!
If you have to go through thr extra step of topcoating before panel lining with tamiya why does anyone use it?
This is exactly what i need
Should I coat with gloss or semi gloss for tamiya accents and then use matte
Can someone explain the step by step for airbrushing to panel lining please?
Thank you
HI! noob here lol, i already painted (hand brush btw) my SD barbatos using mr aqueoueous i tried using gundam panel line marker and cleaned it up using qtip and the aqueous thinner and ended up ruining the paint. There are many types of panel liner out there and i 'm wondering which to use so it wont ruin the base paint. Any suggestions please and thankyou!
Doesnt the enamel thinner remove some of the lacquer or enamel paint if you painted the kits before panel lining? I messed up a painted kit using the enamel thinner on the panel lines which is why i am asking. Love the tutorials and all the content. Thank you!
As far as I know, enamel thinner cannot remove lacquer paints. If I remember, the order of strength for thinners is lacquer > enamel > acrylic
What kind of product of enamel thinner did you use?
In one of his old videos on StudioG he said to always use a different paint for your panel lining to your base paint.
For example if you're using an acrylic or lacquer as a base paint them for your panel line you can go for enamel or any kind of paint as long as they are not acrylic or lacquer and vice versa.
If you're using enamel for your base paint then go for acrylic or lacquer paint as your panel lining this will help you a lot because when you do the cleanup then you won't accidentally clean up your base paint as well
Can you explain how to panel line over paint? I seem to always remove my paint when cleaning panel lines!
I think you top coat it with a clear spray before panel lining and removing leftovers.
What is that water noise in the background when you airbrush ?
There's this expensive back drop piece that let's you airbrush indoors. You use it as like a backdrop and your overspray goes into the water
hello guys i just starded building my gundam sandrock(first build). i wanted to do the panel lining but i already put the sticker? t-t
I do think that u should top coat after panel lining
Why not? It works for me
@@Dr.Alligator They said *do*, not 'not do'. xD
And yes, seal after lining (and dry rub/waterslides), to.. seal it all in. ^_^
Normally I top coat after painting, then add panel lines and decals and then another top coat. Worked for me so far =)
@@douglasrodrigues5878 oh ic ic
Thanks bro 🫡
In this video, what composition of gloss and flat coat did you use in the example at for Step 2 Top Coat? enamel, acrylic or lacquer?
Subbed. Keep it up with the jokes :D
I bought the same thinner from Amazon and is just not working 😕, it doesn’t clean nothing. I ruined my gundam 😕
Are you sure you got the X20 and not the X20A which is a lacquer thinner?
Hmm just curious,Can i use the water for the cleanup?
What do u use as a top coat before panel lining, can u recomment some pls. Thankz,
hi im new to this and i just want to know what brand of primer do you recommend thanks
So you don't really need to topcoat after panel lining?
Can you do a review with Dspiae soft tipped markers? I'm trying to use it but I want to make that I use it correctly
whats the name of the brand for the neon and glow in the dark panel liner called?
Where did he use this?
If you mean in general, from other people.. It's not any 'liner' that I've seen, but more like the black acrylic paint he used with thinner. There are numerous brands that make fluorescent paints (only glows under UV light, like a black light), and Glow In The Dark (charged by any light source, and fades over time).
damn. make a mistake , ended up buying tamiya x-20a
13:10
No mention of oil wash, cheap as hell, lasts forever, and zero chance of fucking up a paint job or plastic.