Pro tip: for dusting off kits like that RG Zeta before doing the panel lines, get a cheap synthetic shaving brush. They're super soft so they don't damage decals or parts but still get into all the cracks and crevices. Takes about a minute to dust off a kit to like-new condition. Make sure it's listed as synthetic and not boar or badger hair. Should be ~ 10 USD or less for a decent one.
@@petermgruhn I have one I use for cleaning my keyboard and one for other stuff, plus I take my keycaps off every so often and clean them, they're due for another one.
Beginner tip: If you are scared of not doing it well on first try you could do some Gundam marker tests on spare parts (each Gunpla kit usually has some spare/unused parts you can use, these parts are marked on the build manual as "not used"), I did this and got to understand how to use the marker before doing so in the actual Gundam model
Some tips... When using any of these panel liners markers or like the Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color, if you're not sure do a test on the actual runner and not the parts just in case it's not compatible with the type of plastic. The last thing you would want to experience is ruining a finished kit while panel lining. Generally, it's good to use a grey panel line for white & light grey parts, black panel line for blue & dark grey parts, and brown panel line for red & orange & yellow parts. But ultimately you should choose what looks good to you.
cant wait to get into this hobby. found some really old cheap kits i made as a kid a couple decades ago that i'll be able to salvage parts from for custom builds. it all looks like so much fun now
I heavily recommend anyone starting out use this particular tutorial. As someone who's now a year into building gunpla, I still use a lot of these techniques here when it comes to my kits. When doing lots and lots of HGs or RGs, this is a perfect way to really quickly get what you want. I do recommend that you get a fine-liner type marker set for doing MGs, as they require a lot more smaller more detailed segments, but otherwise I stick by this method!
So weird. I followed your original tutorial from years ago, and then just refined that until I got it how I wanted. What's hilarious, is that I landed EXACTLY with what you went over in this video, sans the white balancer bit for stains. That's a genius solution that I'm glad you mentioned. I have quite a few standard gundam's with that LITTTTTTLE bit of smear that always bugs me on a random part. I tested it out after pausing the video, and it cleaned it right up in a jiff.
As someone that just started his gunpla collection this year, and not one for painting kits, I ended up going for the micron style pens, staedtler brand. They have turned out to work well enough for a novice like me so far. As I have focused on zeon hg models so far, I have definitely felt the contrast in panel line quality between kits, and even on individual armor segments. Some pieces have a shallow line that just fills back up into a smooth surface instead of being a completed line segment. Others just go back and forth for no apparent reason. Its all been rather fascinating to see. I find on some models the faded ink from smudges on sections my hands/towels cannot get to properly creates a sort of used look to the suit (not sure if I could properly call it weathering) that I have ended up keeping on some of them. It is definitely a much slower process, but as someone who likes to spend time even with my novice scratch build style (nub marks ahoy!), it adds to the experience. Got my first MG (zaku j) on the way to see how the pens fare with it at some point.
It makes sense that you'd demonstrate how on a Perfect Grade Strike. The Strike is just my personal favourite Lead Gundam in the main franchise. I even backordered the Master Grade.
Glad you updated this since the last video I’ve learned how to panel line and have actually learned from your lazy arse methods. Thanks for the quality videos! Thanks for the inspiration to build too!
Dont really do gundam models, but i do a lot of touch ups on several other kinds of models. My go to if i need a black? Sharpie. Before you go crazy on me, sharpie can be easily removed with rubbing alcohol and a q tip, can color any plastic, comes in ultra fine tip, and can mark anything. It leaves marks as a coating on top, so its not going to bleed into your project, and if you give it sufficient dry time it can be clear coated without causing further bleed. My go to for model paints? Nail polish. It has a built in self finishing, comes in several colors, and creates a very durable paint coat, so it is significantly harder to wreck your paint job. The one thing i will definitely not use it on is any piece with fine details built in, but for smooth panels, like the cars i typically do, its quite useful.
Top coating is pretty simple and easy without having to airbrush it on, you can pick up a couple of cans of Mr Super Clear Spray from a local hobby shop (I find them at Hobby Lobby personally, but not everywhere has one, so hobby shops). Personal preference on gloss and matte/flat, but it's best because it's designed for plastic and dries super fast (15-20 minutes).
@@catex5452 I panel line first and then topcoat to protect my work. It's best to do all your other work first (like removing seam lines, weathering, ect) before you do your final topcoat. At least, that's the way I do it since I use matte topcoat.
For any smudges/stains you can also use magic eraser sponges (Melamine sponges) to remove them. The eraser pen dabbed onto a cotton bud works well, I've also put a bit of it onto a toothpick to remove particularly stubborn staining in hard to reach spots.
Oh, FYI, make sure to shake the Tamiya panel liner fluid until the sediment at the bottom is gone and well mixed into the solution before applying it onto kits. You can also just spray a kit entirely with Mr surfacer black and sand it down or remove it with the usual solutions
Been using the same panel line markers.. Grey, black and brown as i love red kits. Doin fine. I find it much more convenient. I used to use tamiya but when it cracked my kit, its been sitting on the corner of my aux table. Nice update mechagaikotsu
for me a simple "ultra fine" sharpie works good (only $1 unlike official gundam markers), and unless your actively storing or using it next to an open flame rubbing alcohol is not a fire hazard, it evaporates far to quickly to be dangerous (just don't drink it) and for anyone not doing several hundred kits there is no need to get such a large bottle, you can just get a 16 ounce bottle for $2 at a store and it will last quite some time.
It's frustrating how videos like these never just have a product list at the bottom for ease of reference instead of having to scrub back an forth. Honestly would be a good edition to have at the bottom of all these videos lol 😅 But owell luckily mecha gai tends to show the products for a long enough time on screen to easily find them when scrubbing the video
I love the CGI Creos pour type markers but I basically only use the black and brown liners; black for white, grey, and blue parts, and brown for red and yellow parts and I get great results. I feel like the orange panel liner on yellow or blue liner on blue parts just don't look good, and I've just not had any green parts to try the olive one. Another tip is when you are wiping away excess panel line, if you use your fingers like I do, try to rub in a way that you are pushing the liner into the crevasse as opposed to pulling away from or along the crevasse.
I use pour type for panel lines and standard ones on some deeper details. Just shake them before use and the ink will run through the panel lines better
Maybe new but we found for cleaning up panel lines using Magic Eraser Sheets have made clean up so much more satisfying and quicker. Hoping to let more people know about this game changer. Awesome to hear these pens where as good as some others claimed!
@@majesticwolfyguy6629 haha yea, I will admit that I enjoy buying new tools rather than focus on my backlog! Out off all the way I tried panel lining, the fountain pen gives the bets result with minimal clean up!
if you use that you should also buy tamiya x-20 enamel thinner help clean off pannel lines that has come out of the line ive used it and it very good and all you gotta do is rub a q tip around the bottle glass you don't even have to get it wet
Panel lining RG models is quite a pain but very rewarding in the end as these line of models is screaming with details and linings while staying 144 scale.
I'm using G Markers from now on. I got a pot of Tamiya Liner for Requiem of Vengeance kits, and it definitely made the EX brittle. The tiny parts on the backpack weapons just split off. Another piece on the back of the leg too. Never had problems with the pens and rubbing alcohol. Hell, you can just rub the Fine Liners clean with your finger. Lesson learn.
My felt-type Gundam liners lasted all of 2 HG kits before I switched to the Tamiya Panel Liner. I've recently also bought the Dspiae panel lining pen but it has something of a learning curve to it.
This was a great guide. Personally I suggest you give the Tamiya panel line accent color a try -HOWEVER - instead of using a brush use a Comic pen ex: A Tachikawa Comic pen. The replaceable nibs can be cleaned and reused and because they are so thin they can really get into the panel lines without leave a the dots the pour style panel lining markers do.
Tamiya panel line is engineered for painted kits. the enamel thinning solutions inside it will attack bare plastics. But yeah I'd like to see him try it and tell us his further findings.
What's the percentage on the isopropyl? I use ~70% and ~90% alternating, depending on how harsh I need it to be. And it's not _that_ bad for your skin. It'll dry it right out, removes dirt and oil, and it's actually pretty handy for disinfecting cuts and scrapes. (Though it stings like a mobilefighter if you're not used to it.) It's a first aid staple.
I recommend only the 70% although 90% is totally fine (its isopropyl alcohol, the disinfectant), never encountered a problem until I changed methods. Top coat and tamiya accent, although yes if you're careful it "Is" possible to use tamiya accent on bare gunpla bandai plastic, only had one gundam out of 3 explode (corrode for free battle damage, burned through the layer and hit the abs plastic), just means somehow it pooled up, just avoid pooling it.
Generally 90% is best for solvent jobs (like this) while 70% is better for disinfection. Though as a warning isopropyl alcohol can have some negative effects on wounds. It's way better than _no_ antiseptic, but you'll heal up better using proper antibiotic ointments. Alcohol's rough on damaged tissue.
Awesome video bro! I just started getting into collecting Gundams and the panel lining part was stressing me out because I didn't know how to do it without taking 15yrs. Lol especially on my RG and MG 144s.
To me... Those "divots" in the armor, as you call them. I feel like those are for the fasteners for the armor onto the frame? Thats just what I imagine them as in my head anyway. Love the vids and you are and have been my favorite gunpla reviewer. Keep up the great content!
Personally, those divots and rivets are really bad design. In real life. Tanks with riveted armor are inferior to welded armor, which is inferior to fully casted armor. If a projectile hits riveted armor and fails to penetrate, the forces will simply transfer to the much weaker rivets and shear itself off. Breaking the seal. I'd much rather keep the look of armor panels on gunpla as whole as possible.
I didn't read which marker I was getting and got the brush type marker by accident so I'm glad this video exists so I don't have to get a fine tip marker for panel lining
I've been wanting to forego the stickers on the v-wings of the gunpla head (they dont stay on very well.) Would be hoping you could teach us how to paint over them with the gundam markers and a couple of paint brushes. I know there's a few alrdy out in the wild but I like the way you explain it.
Mr.Hobby is more friendly for clean build users, though it doesn’t come with a brush, you can just use a panel lining pen, which looks similar to fountain pens. You just have to dip the ink storage into the panel liner, and use the pen like those markers, but a more precise version
I use a sakura erase, it removes the excess paint of the pen and has no smell. Just be careful not to leave it touching the plastic for a long period of time since it also melts it over time.
Probably me being silly, but hopefully you fully did the RG Zeta and the PG Strike as well. Not sure what only parts of them panel lined would look like when other parts aren't.
Once I started using the tamiya bottle, I almost use that exclusively. I paint it on directly on the runners before I build anything so that I don't need to worry about hard to reach areas. Use a Q-tip with some lighter fluid and bam. It's honestly faster than any method I've tried but like you said, hard to do if you wanna chill on a couch :3
I was thinking about doing the same thing... Did you have any problem of plastic that became too brittle ? For now, I use the technique consisting to apply a clear coat before panel lining to protect the plastic...
@@LelianWeatherwax As long as you take care to panel line parts completely before assembly, you'll be fine using the Tamiya Panel Line accent on bare plastic. It's a 5 step process: 1) Fill the panels, 2) Let it dry, 3) Clean up panels (prefer using lighter fluid), 4) Let it dry, 5) Assemble. When people run into parts becoming brittle and breaking, it's because the thinner in the paint pools in between the parts and can't evaporate, so it eats away at the plastic instead.
I'm thinking I might give this a shot after I'm done with my RG tallgeese. I'm using the pour type markers like shown here but I'm not the biggest fan. I've had tamiya accent sitting on my desk for months because I've been scared to crack my kits. Sound's like as long as everything is done on the runner I should be in the clear. I'll give it a shot I guess
I use molotol black liner and love them. Only downside is you can have any color you want as long as its black. But they come in tip sizes as small as 0.05mm(the one i use the most) bur it works wonderful
One advice, don't mix gundam marker fine tips and pour type at same panel line, or your fine tips will don't work anymore. I learned it hard way by sacrificing two brand new gundam marker black, lol
Say I got into gunpla before I knew about panel lining, and didn't keep the runners once I finished building everything abd kept the spare parts in separated containers that only had the grade and model labeled on said containers. Should I just bite the bullet and donit yhe hard way, or should I play it safe and use the method from the original tutorial?
I've never done any panel line before and I wanna ask some questions about this method: 1. Is it ok to do this without any top coating before hand? 2. What is the concentration of isopropyl alcohol you were using in this video? Thanks to anyone who answer my questions
I'm planning to give panel lining a go for the first time soon and while it seems I need a couple other things, namely an erasing method as well as blue and green for my RX078 and my Zakus, this guide has been really helpful. Any good color to use on the lines for red or is brown good enough?
I use that same set but sometimes use blue or orange on white. Another option I've been using chrome in the panel lines on darker plastics. It's a great way to bring out that detail since black doesn't really show well on dark navy or blacks.
What’s your take on applying lines BEFORE or AFTER spraying a Matte Clear coat (rattle can). Also does the Balancer remove the clear off the armor if you happen to apply lines AFTER spraying clear coat?
Any tips on getting these damn things to keep working? I can buy 10 Gundammarker pens and only one will work and for a very short time. Tried the 'toilet paper test' to draw ink out, used thinners, stored them upside down, the right way up, tried water, screaming at them etc... I live in Wales which is wet and cold most of the time but not that cold so should be a perfect for pens.. Cheers!
Welp, i always use the grey pour type marker on white and wipe off the excess with fingers, and i can do anything while doing so! I don't have the patience using the pen type, i always let it flow automatically 😂
Love your tips and tutorials but question about ABS plastic. What kind of marker do you recommend? I got the Wing Zero ver ka for Christmas and I'm extremely scared to do panel lining since I've never done it before.
I do alot of my panel lining with a thin point liquid chrome pen. It looks sharp as Fuk! I also do most of my panel lining while the sheets are all fully intact, before cutting out anything. I gotta say this to, you should have done a video like this using ..MG or RG. Anyone can do it on a Perfect Grade i'm pretty sure.
@@paulheap1982 he used the PG Strike Gundam, or did you miss that? 3:34 into the video bro. As for why I mentioned using MG or RG is because the details are smaller and need a little more precision. As for the RG Zeta, I didn't watch that far into to the video. I left my comment about 4 mins in and then went to a different video.
What would be the best course for panel lining transparent parts? I got a gundam base 00 trans am raiser during expo last year and I've been hesitant on whether or not to do so.
I just bought my first pens, they are Gundam Marker "Extra Fine" but the tips look much finer than the tips Mecha Gaikotsu is using here. Are the pens shown here not felt-tipped? He keeps comparing them to felt-tipped. I'm confused. My pens don't seem that great to take advantage of the capillary action... they are so fine, like fine drafting pens with a short fine tip. Did I mess up and should have gotten "Fine" (vs. my "Extra Fine")? Thank you comment section! *Edit I should say my pens are all blue on the pen body, with the color the pen actually puts out marked on each end, not black like these. Hmm.
when using the rubbing alcohol to remove the mess, do you have to be super careful of stickers if they are down already? have a bunch of older kits that have the decals already and wouldnt want to brush them off
Thanks to MANSCAPED for sponsoring today’s video! Get 20% OFF + Free International Shipping with my promo code “MECHA” at mnscpd.com/MechaGaikotsu
Love your videos and I’m glad Spooky is okay. I just have 1 question. Panel lines before or after top coat?
@@dawanlloyd9791 always do it before top coat.
@@danteericdraven Thanks
My lazier way is just to leave it be and let the dust creeps into the panel lines, creating brown-ish panel lining.
does it really work?
@@exiagn0012 Weirdly enough, yes.
Real time weathering!
Lol mine too, looks like a crypt full of timelost mobil suits.
@@LostnFound1026 lol just put ur hand under your bed. Or the fridge
Pro tip: for dusting off kits like that RG Zeta before doing the panel lines, get a cheap synthetic shaving brush. They're super soft so they don't damage decals or parts but still get into all the cracks and crevices. Takes about a minute to dust off a kit to like-new condition. Make sure it's listed as synthetic and not boar or badger hair. Should be ~ 10 USD or less for a decent one.
In my experience and electronics cleaning brush works too. I use the same one I use for my keyboard.
@@kurisu7885 How do you keep your keyboard brush from getting greasy and messing up your model?
@@petermgruhn
I have one I use for cleaning my keyboard and one for other stuff, plus I take my keycaps off every so often and clean them, they're due for another one.
Beginner tip: If you are scared of not doing it well on first try you could do some Gundam marker tests on spare parts (each Gunpla kit usually has some spare/unused parts you can use, these parts are marked on the build manual as "not used"), I did this and got to understand how to use the marker before doing so in the actual Gundam model
Some tips...
When using any of these panel liners markers or like the Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color, if you're not sure do a test on the actual runner and not the parts just in case it's not compatible with the type of plastic. The last thing you would want to experience is ruining a finished kit while panel lining.
Generally, it's good to use a grey panel line for white & light grey parts, black panel line for blue & dark grey parts, and brown panel line for red & orange & yellow parts. But ultimately you should choose what looks good to you.
@xxnike629xx Did you actually do those tips?
@xxnike629xx Or just another copy paste from other source...
@xxnike629xx Without giving them credit, so that you can pretend that you're a Gunpla genius LUL
@xxnike0629xx in other news, I heard you talking against "canceling" ....
@xxnike0629xx funny that you have done that years ago on at least 2 Gunpla RUclipsrs LUL
cant wait to get into this hobby. found some really old cheap kits i made as a kid a couple decades ago that i'll be able to salvage parts from for custom builds. it all looks like so much fun now
I heavily recommend anyone starting out use this particular tutorial. As someone who's now a year into building gunpla, I still use a lot of these techniques here when it comes to my kits. When doing lots and lots of HGs or RGs, this is a perfect way to really quickly get what you want. I do recommend that you get a fine-liner type marker set for doing MGs, as they require a lot more smaller more detailed segments, but otherwise I stick by this method!
So weird. I followed your original tutorial from years ago, and then just refined that until I got it how I wanted. What's hilarious, is that I landed EXACTLY with what you went over in this video, sans the white balancer bit for stains. That's a genius solution that I'm glad you mentioned. I have quite a few standard gundam's with that LITTTTTTLE bit of smear that always bugs me on a random part. I tested it out after pausing the video, and it cleaned it right up in a jiff.
That's awesome! I actually figured out the balancer thing by accident! Does a great job
As someone that just started his gunpla collection this year, and not one for painting kits, I ended up going for the micron style pens, staedtler brand. They have turned out to work well enough for a novice like me so far. As I have focused on zeon hg models so far, I have definitely felt the contrast in panel line quality between kits, and even on individual armor segments. Some pieces have a shallow line that just fills back up into a smooth surface instead of being a completed line segment. Others just go back and forth for no apparent reason. Its all been rather fascinating to see.
I find on some models the faded ink from smudges on sections my hands/towels cannot get to properly creates a sort of used look to the suit (not sure if I could properly call it weathering) that I have ended up keeping on some of them.
It is definitely a much slower process, but as someone who likes to spend time even with my novice scratch build style (nub marks ahoy!), it adds to the experience. Got my first MG (zaku j) on the way to see how the pens fare with it at some point.
Me building Char kits, Gouf Custom all in HG and panel lining tf outta them.
I just got my first gunpla too it’s a epyon mg and boy is it nub city lmao I could def be better but I’ll use this one to better my craft
It makes sense that you'd demonstrate how on a Perfect Grade Strike.
The Strike is just my personal favourite Lead Gundam in the main franchise. I even backordered the Master Grade.
Nice deus ex pfp
This video couldnt have come at a better moment, i just received my first rg( the nu to be specific) and im so excited to build it :)
Glad you updated this since the last video I’ve learned how to panel line and have actually learned from your lazy arse methods. Thanks for the quality videos! Thanks for the inspiration to build too!
Dont really do gundam models, but i do a lot of touch ups on several other kinds of models. My go to if i need a black? Sharpie. Before you go crazy on me, sharpie can be easily removed with rubbing alcohol and a q tip, can color any plastic, comes in ultra fine tip, and can mark anything. It leaves marks as a coating on top, so its not going to bleed into your project, and if you give it sufficient dry time it can be clear coated without causing further bleed. My go to for model paints? Nail polish. It has a built in self finishing, comes in several colors, and creates a very durable paint coat, so it is significantly harder to wreck your paint job. The one thing i will definitely not use it on is any piece with fine details built in, but for smooth panels, like the cars i typically do, its quite useful.
Nice to see an updated guide. I'd really like to see a topcoat tutorial like this :)
Top coating is pretty simple and easy without having to airbrush it on, you can pick up a couple of cans of Mr Super Clear Spray from a local hobby shop (I find them at Hobby Lobby personally, but not everywhere has one, so hobby shops). Personal preference on gloss and matte/flat, but it's best because it's designed for plastic and dries super fast (15-20 minutes).
@@kopo7466 do you panel line and top coat after building or before building (on the runner / as seperate pieces)?
@@catex5452 I panel line first and then topcoat to protect my work. It's best to do all your other work first (like removing seam lines, weathering, ect) before you do your final topcoat. At least, that's the way I do it since I use matte topcoat.
For any smudges/stains you can also use magic eraser sponges (Melamine sponges) to remove them. The eraser pen dabbed onto a cotton bud works well, I've also put a bit of it onto a toothpick to remove particularly stubborn staining in hard to reach spots.
Oh, FYI, make sure to shake the Tamiya panel liner fluid until the sediment at the bottom is gone and well mixed into the solution before applying it onto kits. You can also just spray a kit entirely with Mr surfacer black and sand it down or remove it with the usual solutions
I bought one of these sets along with my very first gunpla thinking I was getting regular marker type pens. Best mistake I ever made.
Been using the same panel line markers.. Grey, black and brown as i love red kits. Doin fine. I find it much more convenient. I used to use tamiya but when it cracked my kit, its been sitting on the corner of my aux table. Nice update mechagaikotsu
As someone who is just getting into gundam, this will be useful
for me a simple "ultra fine" sharpie works good (only $1 unlike official gundam markers), and unless your actively storing or using it next to an open flame rubbing alcohol is not a fire hazard, it evaporates far to quickly to be dangerous (just don't drink it) and for anyone not doing several hundred kits there is no need to get such a large bottle, you can just get a 16 ounce bottle for $2 at a store and it will last quite some time.
It's frustrating how videos like these never just have a product list at the bottom for ease of reference instead of having to scrub back an forth.
Honestly would be a good edition to have at the bottom of all these videos lol 😅
But owell luckily mecha gai tends to show the products for a long enough time on screen to easily find them when scrubbing the video
"wear gloves" me who has always just used them bare handed and sometimes used my fingers to rub it off: UH OH
I just use a fine tip sharpie and my finger to wipe off the excess
Is it workin
@@hikigayamurakamo9340 It worked, even if its messy at first
I used tissue first, then fingertip
I hope you mean ultrafine tip. I think fine point is the normal markers.
@@hikigayamurakamo9340 yes
I love the CGI Creos pour type markers but I basically only use the black and brown liners; black for white, grey, and blue parts, and brown for red and yellow parts and I get great results. I feel like the orange panel liner on yellow or blue liner on blue parts just don't look good, and I've just not had any green parts to try the olive one. Another tip is when you are wiping away excess panel line, if you use your fingers like I do, try to rub in a way that you are pushing the liner into the crevasse as opposed to pulling away from or along the crevasse.
Using a grey liner pen will look amazing on white parts, try it out sometime.
i love the Tamia panel liner the Dark Grey, Dark Brown, and Black are really really good
I use pour type for panel lines and standard ones on some deeper details. Just shake them before use and the ink will run through the panel lines better
Maybe new but we found for cleaning up panel lines using Magic Eraser Sheets have made clean up so much more satisfying and quicker. Hoping to let more people know about this game changer.
Awesome to hear these pens where as good as some others claimed!
I've been using a fountain pen with the Tamiya panel lining enamal paint. You have so much control with minimal clean up
Damn dude a fountain pen? You're one classy as hell modeller
Might wanna go back and edit that "enema" out. PS : enamel
@@Sazabi4prez just fixed it, thanks!
@@majesticwolfyguy6629 haha yea, I will admit that I enjoy buying new tools rather than focus on my backlog! Out off all the way I tried panel lining, the fountain pen gives the bets result with minimal clean up!
ok this is genius actually
if you use that you should also buy tamiya x-20 enamel thinner help clean off pannel lines that has come out of the line ive used it and it very good and all you gotta do is rub a q tip around the bottle glass you don't even have to get it wet
I prefer the Pigma Micron pens for some panel lining. I love using the .003 for tiny lines.
Panel lining RG models is quite a pain but very rewarding in the end as these line of models is screaming with details and linings while staying 144 scale.
I'm using G Markers from now on.
I got a pot of Tamiya Liner for Requiem of Vengeance kits, and it definitely made the EX brittle. The tiny parts on the backpack weapons just split off. Another piece on the back of the leg too. Never had problems with the pens and rubbing alcohol. Hell, you can just rub the Fine Liners clean with your finger.
Lesson learn.
I'm new to Gunpla and just wanted to say your content is a Godsend! Can't wait to get these pens and make things pop, thanks so much!
My felt-type Gundam liners lasted all of 2 HG kits before I switched to the Tamiya Panel Liner. I've recently also bought the Dspiae panel lining pen but it has something of a learning curve to it.
This was a great guide. Personally I suggest you give the Tamiya panel line accent color a try -HOWEVER - instead of using a brush use a Comic pen ex: A Tachikawa Comic pen. The replaceable nibs can be cleaned and reused and because they are so thin they can really get into the panel lines without leave a the dots the pour style panel lining markers do.
Tamiya panel line is engineered for painted kits. the enamel thinning solutions inside it will attack bare plastics.
But yeah I'd like to see him try it and tell us his further findings.
The label on tamiya accent clearly mention that it can make plastic becomes brittle. Do not use it unless for painted parts
I'm going to try your grey versus black panel lines next time. Great idea,
I like Nuln Oil myself. Great for lines and weathering.
What's the percentage on the isopropyl? I use ~70% and ~90% alternating, depending on how harsh I need it to be. And it's not _that_ bad for your skin. It'll dry it right out, removes dirt and oil, and it's actually pretty handy for disinfecting cuts and scrapes. (Though it stings like a mobilefighter if you're not used to it.) It's a first aid staple.
I recommend only the 70% although 90% is totally fine (its isopropyl alcohol, the disinfectant), never encountered a problem until I changed methods. Top coat and tamiya accent, although yes if you're careful it "Is" possible to use tamiya accent on bare gunpla bandai plastic, only had one gundam out of 3 explode (corrode for free battle damage, burned through the layer and hit the abs plastic), just means somehow it pooled up, just avoid pooling it.
Generally 90% is best for solvent jobs (like this) while 70% is better for disinfection.
Though as a warning isopropyl alcohol can have some negative effects on wounds. It's way better than _no_ antiseptic, but you'll heal up better using proper antibiotic ointments. Alcohol's rough on damaged tissue.
Can I use ethyl alcohol?
Awesome video bro! I just started getting into collecting Gundams and the panel lining part was stressing me out because I didn't know how to do it without taking 15yrs. Lol especially on my RG and MG 144s.
To me... Those "divots" in the armor, as you call them. I feel like those are for the fasteners for the armor onto the frame? Thats just what I imagine them as in my head anyway. Love the vids and you are and have been my favorite gunpla reviewer. Keep up the great content!
You mean like where the rivets or something are?
@@mattr.1804 Something like that. Only i imagine huge bolts opposed to rivets.
Personally, those divots and rivets are really bad design.
In real life. Tanks with riveted armor are inferior to welded armor, which is inferior to fully casted armor.
If a projectile hits riveted armor and fails to penetrate, the forces will simply transfer to the much weaker rivets and shear itself off. Breaking the seal.
I'd much rather keep the look of armor panels on gunpla as whole as possible.
Woah, I never expected another video like this
Dude your videos have helped me out so much with my entry into Gunpla. Thank you 👍🏻
The reason the ink flows is because of "Capillary action" , which is also how trees transport water from its stem to its leaves.
Yup correct! Which is also stated by mecha gaikotsu.
Let’s goooo updated panel line video just when I ordered my pour type markers
Thank you for updating this since I just watched your previous panel lining video yesterday to learn how to do panel lining
I didn't read which marker I was getting and got the brush type marker by accident so I'm glad this video exists so I don't have to get a fine tip marker for panel lining
Also, mark setter and softer will also wash away the Gundam marker from panel lines. I had to redo my Aegis because of it.
I've been wanting to forego the stickers on the v-wings of the gunpla head (they dont stay on very well.) Would be hoping you could teach us how to paint over them with the gundam markers and a couple of paint brushes.
I know there's a few alrdy out in the wild but I like the way you explain it.
Am extremely excited for Siegrune/Gikurune, I really fell in love with the desin.
Does anyone have an alternative for the markers that work on ABS?
Mr.Hobby is more friendly for clean build users, though it doesn’t come with a brush, you can just use a panel lining pen, which looks similar to fountain pens.
You just have to dip the ink storage into the panel liner, and use the pen like those markers, but a more precise version
Dry erase white board makers still my favorite.
I've been using the pour type for years and haven't had any parts break, maybe I'm just lucky
I use a sakura erase, it removes the excess paint of the pen and has no smell. Just be careful not to leave it touching the plastic for a long period of time since it also melts it over time.
there is also the Gundam Marker branded mechanical pencils for panel lining which I am still not sure how effective those things are.
Now I haven’t watched the video, but I guarantee you that “the lazy way” still requires more effort than I’m willing to put in.
Another upload! I love your videos and im always exited when you upload.
I just use pour type marker and clean it up with a q tip dipped in a bit of lighter feul
Probably me being silly, but hopefully you fully did the RG Zeta and the PG Strike as well. Not sure what only parts of them panel lined would look like when other parts aren't.
Once I started using the tamiya bottle, I almost use that exclusively. I paint it on directly on the runners before I build anything so that I don't need to worry about hard to reach areas. Use a Q-tip with some lighter fluid and bam. It's honestly faster than any method I've tried but like you said, hard to do if you wanna chill on a couch :3
I was thinking about doing the same thing... Did you have any problem of plastic that became too brittle ? For now, I use the technique consisting to apply a clear coat before panel lining to protect the plastic...
@@LelianWeatherwax As long as you take care to panel line parts completely before assembly, you'll be fine using the Tamiya Panel Line accent on bare plastic. It's a 5 step process: 1) Fill the panels, 2) Let it dry, 3) Clean up panels (prefer using lighter fluid), 4) Let it dry, 5) Assemble.
When people run into parts becoming brittle and breaking, it's because the thinner in the paint pools in between the parts and can't evaporate, so it eats away at the plastic instead.
Yup I always make sure everything is dry and clean. I've never had any breakages using it without top coat.
I'm thinking I might give this a shot after I'm done with my RG tallgeese. I'm using the pour type markers like shown here but I'm not the biggest fan. I've had tamiya accent sitting on my desk for months because I've been scared to crack my kits. Sound's like as long as everything is done on the runner I should be in the clear. I'll give it a shot I guess
I find that even the basic gunpla marker set works similarly to the pour type just gotta be careful
I like using Tamiya panel liner , works great 👍. Great vid
I’m currently in the middle of buying some type of liner but does tamiya crack the plastic?
@@2way93 not as far as I know lol
I think Tamiya just cracked small parts of my RoV EX.
Edit, it definitely did...
I use molotol black liner and love them. Only downside is you can have any color you want as long as its black. But they come in tip sizes as small as 0.05mm(the one i use the most) bur it works wonderful
Have built 10 kits as of now haven’t even gone near a panel liner 🤣 going for the MGEX next so I’ll try it then i think
Holy crap has it really been 5 years since you left Japan? Time flies.
One advice, don't mix gundam marker fine tips and pour type at same panel line, or your fine tips will don't work anymore. I learned it hard way by sacrificing two brand new gundam marker black, lol
Ergonomics and Gundams. Gundams is a secret way to say ergonomics. Gon, gun, goin, jin, gen, etc. Jain...
Say I got into gunpla before I knew about panel lining, and didn't keep the runners once I finished building everything abd kept the spare parts in separated containers that only had the grade and model labeled on said containers.
Should I just bite the bullet and donit yhe hard way, or should I play it safe and use the method from the original tutorial?
I've never done any panel line before and I wanna ask some questions about this method:
1. Is it ok to do this without any top coating before hand?
2. What is the concentration of isopropyl alcohol you were using in this video?
Thanks to anyone who answer my questions
I typically don't panel line my kits cos it makes them look too visually busy.
Sometimes there's washed out details i could panel line but meh.
Should I panel line then apply water slides and after that put my Matt top coat?
1:57
'In a pen there is no mess"
I have had a pen explode in my hand; my hand was a black inky mess for a week.
lots of fun...
it still works though.
And then there's me, who just use every marker that mankind always use, and my greasy, oily thumb, it works extremely well
I'm planning to give panel lining a go for the first time soon and while it seems I need a couple other things, namely an erasing method as well as blue and green for my RX078 and my Zakus, this guide has been really helpful.
Any good color to use on the lines for red or is brown good enough?
Will Q-Tips work as well too ?
Very nice video as always 🔥🔥🔥
Can I do panel lining and apply decals after the robot is all built ? I’d like to see the robot as a whole while doing them
I use that same set but sometimes use blue or orange on white. Another option I've been using chrome in the panel lines on darker plastics. It's a great way to bring out that detail since black doesn't really show well on dark navy or blacks.
awesome video! If my gundam is painted and I use this method, will the rubbing alcohol remove/damage the paint coat?
Thanks
Finally, a video that can help me
What’s your take on applying lines BEFORE or AFTER spraying a Matte Clear coat (rattle can). Also does the Balancer remove the clear off the armor if you happen to apply lines AFTER spraying clear coat?
Any tips on getting these damn things to keep working? I can buy 10 Gundammarker pens and only one will work and for a very short time. Tried the 'toilet paper test' to draw ink out, used thinners, stored them upside down, the right way up, tried water, screaming at them etc... I live in Wales which is wet and cold most of the time but not that cold so should be a perfect for pens.. Cheers!
Welp, i always use the grey pour type marker on white and wipe off the excess with fingers, and i can do anything while doing so!
I don't have the patience using the pen type, i always let it flow automatically 😂
Is there a specific brand/dilution percentage that you use or just use any generic isopropyl alcohol off Amazon?
Interested to know the alcohol % too 😊
I can't find that pen set anywhere where I'm from :S
Is it the GMS122 set?
you use any alcohol or isopropyl alcohol
So can you make Battle damaged with these markers not like actual cutting or heating up a weird thingy to make a arm ripped off
Should i use Tamiya thinner to clean it ? Some people said is will destroy the gundam 😢
Love your tips and tutorials but question about ABS plastic. What kind of marker do you recommend? I got the Wing Zero ver ka for Christmas and I'm extremely scared to do panel lining since I've never done it before.
Hi! I tried to panel line a black painted gunpla with tamiya panel line grey, but the color cannot be seen at all. Could you please help me?
Is there any other methods to get rid of the dots if I don’t have rubbing alcohol ?
I do alot of my panel lining with a thin point liquid chrome pen. It looks sharp as Fuk! I also do most of my panel lining while the sheets are all fully intact, before cutting out anything. I gotta say this to, you should have done a video like this using ..MG or RG. Anyone can do it on a Perfect Grade i'm pretty sure.
He used the RG zeta, or did you miss that? Also, the principles are the same.
@@paulheap1982 he used the PG Strike Gundam, or did you miss that? 3:34 into the video bro. As for why I mentioned using MG or RG is because the details are smaller and need a little more precision. As for the RG Zeta, I didn't watch that far into to the video. I left my comment about 4 mins in and then went to a different video.
My lazy way: Don’t
Even sloppy lining adds SOOO much to a kit, especially when seeing it from far away on a desk
JUST DO IT.
Lmfao
What would be the best course for panel lining transparent parts? I got a gundam base 00 trans am raiser during expo last year and I've been hesitant on whether or not to do so.
I used black for transparent pieces.
I just bought my first pens, they are Gundam Marker "Extra Fine" but the tips look much finer than the tips Mecha Gaikotsu is using here. Are the pens shown here not felt-tipped? He keeps comparing them to felt-tipped. I'm confused. My pens don't seem that great to take advantage of the capillary action... they are so fine, like fine drafting pens with a short fine tip. Did I mess up and should have gotten "Fine" (vs. my "Extra Fine")? Thank you comment section!
*Edit I should say my pens are all blue on the pen body, with the color the pen actually puts out marked on each end, not black like these. Hmm.
Do you think they would be good for fixing small paint errors on regular action figures
when using the rubbing alcohol to remove the mess, do you have to be super careful of stickers if they are down already? have a bunch of older kits that have the decals already and wouldnt want to brush them off
In your opinion, do I still need to panel line my PG strike freedom?
How do you know if its abs plastic pls answer
Okay, i swear I've seen the other video like 1 day ago and i though that I was dumb because this video came out now