Pros always spray a gloss coat before a flat coat to smooth out the edges. The extra layer of gloss is extremely important because flat coats scratch and chip very easily and can take the paint off with the chipping. Spraying a gloss coat not only smooths out the edges, but insurers the paint won't scratch easily. Gloss is the strongest top coat protection.
Very true. The best way to do it is to apply a gloss clear to your paint job for protection and because decals will adhere perfectly to the glossy finish. At this point you can even polish that coat AND the decals to make them seamless. After that apply your final clear coat (matte, semi gloss, or gloss depending on desired results)
For those of you who think you need a gloss coat first before a decal is false. A smooth surface is what you typically need and the plasric is smooth enough. If applying to a textured or even curved piece, a decal softener is recommended. This info comes from the tank model kit community and works for all model kit decals tjat includes cars, planes, gunpla, ect.
Honestly thank you!! Because I thought I needed to buy another effing can of top coat this time gloss, I have the other 2. Will bare plastic cause silvering?
@@blackjax8824 What you have to do it make sure you gently press the decal down with a cotton swab to prevent silvering. Silvering is only a major issue on larger decals with see-through areas. Also make sure the part is clean of debris or fingerprints. Silvering is caused by small pockets of air under the decal. If you do get silvering just use a fresh hobby blade to poke a hole into the air pocket and then add more decal softener. As for top coating on top of decals always make sure to let the decals dry for about 30 min. the first coat should be a mist no not reactivate the decal. Notes on stuff you can buy. Something like Mark Setter is used as an adhesive promoter to make the decal from lifting and making wrinkles or silvering. High quality decals without it still stick fine though. Mark Softer simply melts the decal to make it thinner. That helps make the decal look painted on rather than simply a high quality sticker (which is what waterslide decals pretty much are). Depending on the brand of decals you have you may not even need softener. Usually decals that come with kits are not great. Depli and G-Rework are high quality brands for decals that I have used and recommend.
A bit off-topic but when it comes to choosing between matte or glossy topcoat, I have learned the hard way that dust clings more to glossy than matte, and I had trouble cleaning up my old kits (I had changed to matte after my first few kits). So if you're like me and live in a dusty place (or just lazy and take ages to clean up lmao) this might be something to consider.
A good way to avoid that is to display your glossy kits in enclosed shelves with glass doors. That eliminates pretty much any chance of dust settling. I have stuff in my glass shelves that I haven't touched in nearly 10 years, and there's basically no dust on them. Just don't leave the shelf doors open for extended periods of time.
@@WilliamChoochootrain yeah glass shelves have been at the very top of my wishlist since my backlog started piling up, unfortunately space is very limited at home. Right now I'm resorting to just keeping the finished kits in their boxes (after taking action shots, of course), which is a damn shame 'cause you're not supposed to "cage the beast," you know what I mean? 😞 But someday soon hopefully! 😊
@@vietnamabc2290 haha true. Right now I have my most recent builds stored in their boxes after their photoshoots. But to me it just feels wrong "caging the beast," you know? Like they're not fulfilling their purpose. 😞
@@infernas is fine, I am mostly a desk figure type, I prefer to touch / posing em a little bits during pc session so basically keep em in mothball then do I feel Exia today or is it Zaku day?
Thank you for these videos. I've been building for years but was always afraid to take the plunge into painting/decals. These will help. I appreciate it
You're the best G. I picked up the Xi and Penelope combo kit with the Funnel Effect parts and it came with the bonus decals and I've been really nervous to work on it since I've never done decals before. This was extremely helpful. Thank you
try using packing tape. stick the decal against the side that doesn't have the surface/ink and tape it against the spot you want it on so it wont move and be perfectly aligned everytime!
Hello i had a question, i was wondering if i hand painted my Gundam and after that apply the decals onto my painted surface, does the set/sol damage my paint? And the softener comes after the setter, rigth?
1. Dee-cal. #2 sounds too much like D*ckle. On Dry Transfers.. That's a really bad idea to take the parchment (not wax) paper off and hand them, put them on skin. Natural oils we secret can ruin then/make them nearly impossible to apply properly. So, please avoid that, unless you're looking to make the kit weathered and have scratched/dinged up markings. xD There's also Metallic Dry Rubs by DelpiDecal, that apply pretty much the same way as normal Dry Rubs, but they have two layers of film protecting them (at least the way they make them). Sam warning about moisture applies. The edge removal of clear stickers takes many layers of clear coating and wet sanding. (JENIC has a nice video you can use for reference here ruclips.net/video/xzEchAxT6-U/видео.html)
no but if you have a spot that is (lower) that the sticker will not touch you put a lil softer on it for 10s them push on it to get it to bend down into the hole/grove. I know this is a old comment but wanted to help other's asmuch as i needed it o7
What if the kit has a special finish? Like say for examples the Rg special coating sazabi is that kit even possible to apply water slides to? It seems so considering i cant top coat it without ruining the finish but maybe theres a top coat that wont ruin the finish and im trying to see if that shit exists fr lol
hello justin.. i adam from malaysia.. i would like ask a question. if i would like to apply hologram water decal on mg sazabi then top coat with matt finish what is the effect of decal? is still holo or different effect? just asking because i dont dare to apply it yet... the decal is from delpi.. can u help me with some advise
Hello people, I need some help... I have one fundamental issue: where the hell do I get water decals from? I swear I'm trying to figure it out by myself but, as a total newbie, I'm not able to do that
FUCKING GREAT VIDEO BROTHER ! GREAT GREAT VIDEO ! goin to do dry and wet just like you said and going to look into setter's/softer's. With me turning these into art and putting a lot og money into them i want them to be as good as i can get them !
Pros always spray a gloss coat before a flat coat to smooth out the edges. The extra layer of gloss is extremely important because flat coats scratch and chip very easily and can take the paint off with the chipping. Spraying a gloss coat not only smooths out the edges, but insurers the paint won't scratch easily. Gloss is the strongest top coat protection.
Very true. The best way to do it is to apply a gloss clear to your paint job for protection and because decals will adhere perfectly to the glossy finish. At this point you can even polish that coat AND the decals to make them seamless. After that apply your final clear coat (matte, semi gloss, or gloss depending on desired results)
So i assume this part is only necessary if you painted your model kit?
For those of you who think you need a gloss coat first before a decal is false. A smooth surface is what you typically need and the plasric is smooth enough.
If applying to a textured or even curved piece, a decal softener is recommended. This info comes from the tank model kit community and works for all model kit decals tjat includes cars, planes, gunpla, ect.
Honestly thank you!! Because I thought I needed to buy another effing can of top coat this time gloss, I have the other 2. Will bare plastic cause silvering?
@@blackjax8824 What you have to do it make sure you gently press the decal down with a cotton swab to prevent silvering. Silvering is only a major issue on larger decals with see-through areas. Also make sure the part is clean of debris or fingerprints. Silvering is caused by small pockets of air under the decal. If you do get silvering just use a fresh hobby blade to poke a hole into the air pocket and then add more decal softener.
As for top coating on top of decals always make sure to let the decals dry for about 30 min. the first coat should be a mist no not reactivate the decal.
Notes on stuff you can buy. Something like Mark Setter is used as an adhesive promoter to make the decal from lifting and making wrinkles or silvering. High quality decals without it still stick fine though. Mark Softer simply melts the decal to make it thinner. That helps make the decal look painted on rather than simply a high quality sticker (which is what waterslide decals pretty much are). Depending on the brand of decals you have you may not even need softener. Usually decals that come with kits are not great. Depli and G-Rework are high quality brands for decals that I have used and recommend.
A bit off-topic but when it comes to choosing between matte or glossy topcoat, I have learned the hard way that dust clings more to glossy than matte, and I had trouble cleaning up my old kits (I had changed to matte after my first few kits). So if you're like me and live in a dusty place (or just lazy and take ages to clean up lmao) this might be something to consider.
A good way to avoid that is to display your glossy kits in enclosed shelves with glass doors. That eliminates pretty much any chance of dust settling. I have stuff in my glass shelves that I haven't touched in nearly 10 years, and there's basically no dust on them. Just don't leave the shelf doors open for extended periods of time.
@@WilliamChoochootrain yeah glass shelves have been at the very top of my wishlist since my backlog started piling up, unfortunately space is very limited at home. Right now I'm resorting to just keeping the finished kits in their boxes (after taking action shots, of course), which is a damn shame 'cause you're not supposed to "cage the beast," you know what I mean? 😞 But someday soon hopefully! 😊
@@infernas if you not need to display em then there is always da wae of Tupperware, air tight container is OP
@@vietnamabc2290 haha true. Right now I have my most recent builds stored in their boxes after their photoshoots. But to me it just feels wrong "caging the beast," you know? Like they're not fulfilling their purpose. 😞
@@infernas is fine, I am mostly a desk figure type, I prefer to touch / posing em a little bits during pc session so basically keep em in mothball then do I feel Exia today or is it Zaku day?
Thank you for these videos. I've been building for years but was always afraid to take the plunge into painting/decals. These will help. I appreciate it
About to dive into water slides. Great video!
This was a really informative and concise rundown. Thanks a ton for the information.
You're the best G. I picked up the Xi and Penelope combo kit with the Funnel Effect parts and it came with the bonus decals and I've been really nervous to work on it since I've never done decals before. This was extremely helpful. Thank you
Thank you sir, because of your content I learned correctly
I have so many decals and didn't really know how to effectively use them. Thank you
Thank you I was wondering how to put on the “non stick” stickers
Hi Justin. Great and extensive video on types of decals/stickers/dry transfer differences bro. 👍
Dry transfer decals are top tier but really hard to apply if its your first time my first time applying them wasnt so great
try using packing tape. stick the decal against the side that doesn't have the surface/ink and tape it against the spot you want it on so it wont move and be perfectly aligned everytime!
@@bendibona5486 You're a genius, thank you!
Is it okay not to use a mark setter for wet decals? Thanks sir! Very helpful vid.
Hello i had a question, i was wondering if i hand painted my Gundam and after that apply the decals onto my painted surface, does the set/sol damage my paint? And the softener comes after the setter, rigth?
Thank you for making more tutorial videos!
thank you mr g, i learned now
Can I do panel lining and apply decals after the robot is all built ? I’d like to see the robot as a whole while doing them
Hey Justin. Thanks for this. Appreciated!
Which order would you do first decals or photo etch?
How are the dry transfers on paint and than also with a top coat applied?
1. Dee-cal. #2 sounds too much like D*ckle.
On Dry Transfers.. That's a really bad idea to take the parchment (not wax) paper off and hand them, put them on skin. Natural oils we secret can ruin then/make them nearly impossible to apply properly. So, please avoid that, unless you're looking to make the kit weathered and have scratched/dinged up markings. xD
There's also Metallic Dry Rubs by DelpiDecal, that apply pretty much the same way as normal Dry Rubs, but they have two layers of film protecting them (at least the way they make them). Sam warning about moisture applies.
The edge removal of clear stickers takes many layers of clear coating and wet sanding. (JENIC has a nice video you can use for reference here ruclips.net/video/xzEchAxT6-U/видео.html)
thanks for sharing!
I couldn't find your g-decals yet, got a url?
Hey mate thanks for the info amazing video and now ready to male some of my MG kits shine a bit more thanks
Something I learned putting water decals, always buy 2 sets, you never know when one long decal migt be split in half
I have a question, do I need a special mask when using topcat spray cans?
thank you for this sir justine! really great help. gain more ideas!
Yo great video, i didn't even know that I was applying waterslide decals the wrong way lol
is it fine apply WSD even without mark setter?
Where can you buy your Decals?
Thank you
Thanks you sir for sharing the knowlegde i really apprieciate that
Do I have to use Mark softer man?(pls answer it ‘cause I’m newbie;D)
no but if you have a spot that is (lower) that the sticker will not touch you put a lil softer on it for 10s them push on it to get it to bend down into the hole/grove. I know this is a old comment but wanted to help other's asmuch as i needed it o7
A lot of decals never made sense to me. Unless the Mobile Suits fresh out the factory doubt the repaint cautions all over them after battle...
What if the kit has a special finish? Like say for examples the Rg special coating sazabi is that kit even possible to apply water slides to? It seems so considering i cant top coat it without ruining the finish but maybe theres a top coat that wont ruin the finish and im trying to see if that shit exists fr lol
Example*
Good vid
1. De cals, i don't know where deckal came from, but I remember decals as a kid and it's been de cals for damn near 40 years.
Cool tutorial.
hello justin.. i adam from malaysia.. i would like ask a question. if i would like to apply hologram water decal on mg sazabi then top coat with matt finish what is the effect of decal? is still holo or different effect? just asking because i dont dare to apply it yet... the decal is from delpi.. can u help me with some advise
Hold them still Jesus
Hello people, I need some help...
I have one fundamental issue: where the hell do I get water decals from? I swear I'm trying to figure it out by myself but, as a total newbie, I'm not able to do that
1. dee-cal
Am I the only one that likes dry over water decals
You say you make decals but you have not had any in your store for quite a while. Please restock
The music is to high in your video it needs turning down a bit
You need to calm down on the music. The music should not be anywhere near the volume of your voice.
Personally I’m a water slide decal guy simply cuz it’s easier
1
bro talks alot
FUCKING GREAT VIDEO BROTHER ! GREAT GREAT VIDEO ! goin to do dry and wet just like you said and going to look into setter's/softer's. With me turning these into art and putting a lot og money into them i want them to be as good as i can get them !
thank you