First of all, you're very talented. Thank you for the efforts you're making. Some time ago I think I told you that I took delivery of my Ultra in December with a non working front right turn signal. I was recently told by Ed Rios (recently let go by Fisker) that it may very well be this problem which you highlighted in this video. My particular problem, according to Ed is caused by/or made worse by my windshield washer tank being cracked and getting the area wet. Hopefully one day soon I'll be able to find a qualified mechanic to address my issues because I sure can't. Thanks again for the video.
Your video saved my ocean 👏 My infotainment screen was not booting properly and none of the resets solved it. I cleaned the connector and sealed it as you recommended and that solved my problem 👍🏼 Do you plan on making more videos where you waterproof more connections? I suspect that this is not the only connector with issues 😳
@@jonnoob Wow, I’m surprised it affected the info screen! Yes, there are other connectors behind the front bumper. Im still looking to see if there are any in the rear.
@ I also was very surprised. I was working on the car all day. Attaching a battery tender and removing fuses. In the end of the day I gave up trying to get the screen working again. Afterwards I decided to fix the connection and not thinking it had anything to do with the screen. Next day the screen started working again. I am not 100 percent sure the connector was the problem but I am hoping someone else will try the same thing and report back
Thank you for helping everyone that owns one of these vehicles. If the corrosion is really bad, it may be possible to replace the connector entirely with a Deutsch connector. They are waterproof to 3ft submersion.
Thanks for the advice - will be taking a look at my FOE to see if it has any issues. Do you know if there is a similar connector in the other wheel well?
My fisker tech told me that there are connectors in the rear bumper as well that should be checked. Oddly though he said all on the passenger side, even though the service manual says they are in the left side....
I was getting the occasional warning message regarding right daytime running lights so I went and did this procedure as described in the video. To make more room to work, I took the R front wheel off using the DIY lift pucks on my floor jack. Near the connectors I found a small abandoned wasp nest. I went ahead and pulled apart all 3 that were visible and cleaned them, though they weren't visibly dirty and reassembled them with a nice coating of dialectric grease and then wrapped them with silicon tape. After wrapping them I had to zip tie them back into place as the doo hickies that secure the connectors to the frame got in the way of wrapping them and I took them off. Funny thing is, now my LEFT turn signal flashes twice as fast and I get a malfunction message for that. In simpler cars this meant that one of the bulbs was out but the lights are flashing equally on the L and R, the L is just twice as fast now. Next, I'm going to check for a relay or fuse. Oh, I did have the car radio playing while I did this, which may have been a mistake as these Oceans seem a little ticklish.
Yes, taking off the wheel makes it easier to get to the inner connector. Sorry to hear you are having an issue. Make sure the connectors are fully seated. Let me know how it goes.
@@MTNRanger I double checked the 3 connectors that I opened up and re-did the cleaning, dielectric greasing and left them re-taped and secured to the frame again. I still got a double-time L turn signal. I also checked all the cabin and power unit compartment fuses and they were all OK. Maybe I damaged something in the process. All lights and visual/audio indicators work though. I wonder if a 12-volt disconnect/re-connect would help. The old "on/off" reset. Any thoughts on that idea? I will definately close all the windows first. I think I am willing to temporarily sacrifice doggie windows for a proper L turn signal. BTW, when those connectors are disconnected, the car is dead. Will not respond to key fob or NFC.
@@rodwilliamyoung Yes, maybe not a bad idea to try a disconnect and reset. I haven't heard of anyone having this issue before. I'll need to do some more research on this.
@@rodwilliamyoung From posting on FOA, I am getting reponses that indicate you may need to reopen the connector and find what is most likey one pin that is not connecting. Another said to repeatedly slide the pins in and out. Make sure the dielectric grease is properly applied.
@@MTNRanger That is what I did last night and it did not change the L turn signal speed. I also noticed last night that the L doggie window is not opening anymore. Not totally sure when that happened. Could have also occurred with the connector cleaning/greasing/sealing process. I think I messed up by not having the car in sleep mode when I pulled the connectors apart. Going to go ahead with the 12-volt disconnect/re-connect.
Great information as always I love your videos!. I actually have an issue with my left daytime running light. It doesn’t do the “welcome” light show at night when I unlock the car & It goes out from time to time. My headlights work fine. Would this also help with the daytime running lights or is that something separate? Normally I wouldn’t bother with it but the daytime running lights look awesome on the ocean & I really want it working. Please help if you can.
It's hard to say, but I think some of the lighting is going through that connector. I would look at your connector (might as well check the black one next to it) and see.
Thanks for this video. Will make time to do this fix. Do you know if this connector would cause proximity sensors being "stuck" and keep alarming at low speeds? Or the rear camera intermittently being not available? I thought 2.1 fixed this for me, but cold weather brought both back. I'm thinking it's a physical issue rather than software. Many thanks in advance
I have a follow up video coming out on the 23rd that will show how to waterproof the connectors. I'm not sure if the ultrasonic sensors are in these two connectors. Do you continuously have them alarming or does it come and go?
@MTNRanger not 100 percent but close (I'd say 9 times out of 10). They consistently get stuck sensing whatever was in front of them during parking. If there was nothing. No alarm. But they do not detect new objects. If there was a wall or a pole. Then the alarm is activated. Tried both soft and hard resets.
@@dmitriikoval8734 One time I had the sensors alarming constantly. When I stopped and locked, it reset. I haven't seen a case where they don't respond to the reset. If I see anything online, I'll let you know.
Definitely need a video on cleaning and sealing majority of the connection i no most people who grt faults on screen only grt it when its raining or wet out which tell me to waterproof connectors. I wonder if we can do something to the sensors that get affected aswell to prevent any failures. Wish fisker has made a plastic wheel arch cover rsther than a felt type one
Thanks for the video. I will inspect my own connector but I'd like to find a better way to waterproof/protect the connector. Did you actually end up taping yours up? Is this a low voltage connector? I assume it is and heat dissipation is not a concern (eg. if you totally wrap it or somehow otherwise waterproof it).
Yes, this is a low voltage connector. Yes, I doubt there is any heat issues with this. Someone on Facebook someone wrapped the connector with Teflon tape and water proof electrical tape. Personally, I'm checking some other things before I wrap the connector.
@@jimdonovan2207 The wheel well fabric also lets water in. There are also gaps underneath the car too. I will be doing a video showing how to protect the wheel well area with additional shielding.
Hello, my Fisker actually bricked for the problem here. It stopped accepting charge, windshield wipers gone crazy along with ultrasound sensor faults. When I opened it was dirty. I saw one pin was broke off. When I counted the cables coming from the one side (12 cable) was not corresponding the number of pins in side the connector(9 pins) Therefore I had to by pass the missing pins by soldering a separate 4 cables. As of now car drives, signal and ultrasonic sensor faults are gone.
hmmm i wonder if connector issues are the reason my fisker likes saying the charge door is open when it is not. Im gonna have to go through a lot of connectors and get them clean.
First look at your firmware level. The charge port open message was common prior to OS 2.1, and this update fixed this. As a tech, I always look at the firmware in devices before taking a screwdriver to something.
@@jkaiserling o thank you! ya, my ocean is 2.0. glad to know that's a firmware issue. still hoping ill get the update and not have to go in to do it manually.
No, the charge port door open was a bug introduced in the 2.0 update. It has been fixed with 2.1 and 2.2. I haven't seen the warning since getting 2.2 last month.
You are the best!!! Thanks for all your tips and work!
First of all, you're very talented. Thank you for the efforts you're making. Some time ago I think I told you that I took delivery of my Ultra in December with a non working front right turn signal. I was recently told by Ed Rios (recently let go by Fisker) that it may very well be this problem which you highlighted in this video. My particular problem, according to Ed is caused by/or made worse by my windshield washer tank being cracked and getting the area wet. Hopefully one day soon I'll be able to find a qualified mechanic to address my issues because I sure can't. Thanks again for the video.
Interesting info on the wiper tank. Good to know.
Your video saved my ocean 👏 My infotainment screen was not booting properly and none of the resets solved it. I cleaned the connector and sealed it as you recommended and that solved my problem 👍🏼
Do you plan on making more videos where you waterproof more connections? I suspect that this is not the only connector with issues 😳
@@jonnoob Wow, I’m surprised it affected the info screen! Yes, there are other connectors behind the front bumper. Im still looking to see if there are any in the rear.
@ I also was very surprised. I was working on the car all day. Attaching a battery tender and removing fuses. In the end of the day I gave up trying to get the screen working again. Afterwards I decided to fix the connection and not thinking it had anything to do with the screen. Next day the screen started working again. I am not 100 percent sure the connector was the problem but I am hoping someone else will try the same thing and report back
@ Whatever it takes, right?
Thank you for helping everyone that owns one of these vehicles. If the corrosion is really bad, it may be possible to replace the connector entirely with a Deutsch connector. They are waterproof to 3ft submersion.
@@ryanhoaglin9907 I have been told on Reddit that the connector is very similar to a Mercedes connector. That may be a future solution.
Thanks for the advice - will be taking a look at my FOE to see if it has any issues. Do you know if there is a similar connector in the other wheel well?
Good question. From all I have heard, only on the right side. I may just pop open the left side to look around when I get a chance.
My fisker tech told me that there are connectors in the rear bumper as well that should be checked.
Oddly though he said all on the passenger side, even though the service manual says they are in the left side....
This is a great video! Very spot on
Just did this repair but made it better. I enclosed the connector in waterproof case.
can you link the waterproof case?
@@MichaelKlitgaard 2 Pcs- Outdoor Extension Cord Cover, IP44 Waterproof Cord Safety Cover, Electric Tool Cord Anti Disconnect Protective Case,Ideal to Protect Holiday String Lights & Electrical Tool Cord Connection
Are there similar connections on the drivers side (or rear wheel areas)? Thanks for the tips!
I have been checking with other people. There appears to be none on the left side. As far as the rear of the car, I haven't been able to check yet.
I was getting the occasional warning message regarding right daytime running lights so I went and did this procedure as described in the video. To make more room to work, I took the R front wheel off using the DIY lift pucks on my floor jack. Near the connectors I found a small abandoned wasp nest. I went ahead and pulled apart all 3 that were visible and cleaned them, though they weren't visibly dirty and reassembled them with a nice coating of dialectric grease and then wrapped them with silicon tape. After wrapping them I had to zip tie them back into place as the doo hickies that secure the connectors to the frame got in the way of wrapping them and I took them off.
Funny thing is, now my LEFT turn signal flashes twice as fast and I get a malfunction message for that. In simpler cars this meant that one of the bulbs was out but the lights are flashing equally on the L and R, the L is just twice as fast now. Next, I'm going to check for a relay or fuse. Oh, I did have the car radio playing while I did this, which may have been a mistake as these Oceans seem a little ticklish.
Yes, taking off the wheel makes it easier to get to the inner connector. Sorry to hear you are having an issue. Make sure the connectors are fully seated. Let me know how it goes.
@@MTNRanger I double checked the 3 connectors that I opened up and re-did the cleaning, dielectric greasing and left them re-taped and secured to the frame again. I still got a double-time L turn signal. I also checked all the cabin and power unit compartment fuses and they were all OK.
Maybe I damaged something in the process. All lights and visual/audio indicators work though.
I wonder if a 12-volt disconnect/re-connect would help. The old "on/off" reset. Any thoughts on that idea? I will definately close all the windows first. I think I am willing to temporarily sacrifice doggie windows for a proper L turn signal.
BTW, when those connectors are disconnected, the car is dead. Will not respond to key fob or NFC.
@@rodwilliamyoung Yes, maybe not a bad idea to try a disconnect and reset. I haven't heard of anyone having this issue before. I'll need to do some more research on this.
@@rodwilliamyoung From posting on FOA, I am getting reponses that indicate you may need to reopen the connector and find what is most likey one pin that is not connecting. Another said to repeatedly slide the pins in and out. Make sure the dielectric grease is properly applied.
@@MTNRanger That is what I did last night and it did not change the L turn signal speed. I also noticed last night that the L doggie window is not opening anymore. Not totally sure when that happened. Could have also occurred with the connector cleaning/greasing/sealing process. I think I messed up by not having the car in sleep mode when I pulled the connectors apart.
Going to go ahead with the 12-volt disconnect/re-connect.
Great information as always I love your videos!. I actually have an issue with my left daytime running light. It doesn’t do the “welcome” light show at night when I unlock the car & It goes out from time to time. My headlights work fine. Would this also help with the daytime running lights or is that something separate? Normally I wouldn’t bother with it but the daytime running lights look awesome on the ocean & I really want it working. Please help if you can.
It's hard to say, but I think some of the lighting is going through that connector. I would look at your connector (might as well check the black one next to it) and see.
@@MTNRanger thx
Thanks for this video. Will make time to do this fix.
Do you know if this connector would cause proximity sensors being "stuck" and keep alarming at low speeds? Or the rear camera intermittently being not available?
I thought 2.1 fixed this for me, but cold weather brought both back. I'm thinking it's a physical issue rather than software.
Many thanks in advance
I have a follow up video coming out on the 23rd that will show how to waterproof the connectors. I'm not sure if the ultrasonic sensors are in these two connectors. Do you continuously have them alarming or does it come and go?
@MTNRanger not 100 percent but close (I'd say 9 times out of 10). They consistently get stuck sensing whatever was in front of them during parking.
If there was nothing. No alarm. But they do not detect new objects.
If there was a wall or a pole. Then the alarm is activated.
Tried both soft and hard resets.
@@dmitriikoval8734 One time I had the sensors alarming constantly. When I stopped and locked, it reset. I haven't seen a case where they don't respond to the reset. If I see anything online, I'll let you know.
Definitely need a video on cleaning and sealing majority of the connection i no most people who grt faults on screen only grt it when its raining or wet out which tell me to waterproof connectors.
I wonder if we can do something to the sensors that get affected aswell to prevent any failures.
Wish fisker has made a plastic wheel arch cover rsther than a felt type one
Thanks for the video. I will inspect my own connector but I'd like to find a better way to waterproof/protect the connector. Did you actually end up taping yours up? Is this a low voltage connector? I assume it is and heat dissipation is not a concern (eg. if you totally wrap it or somehow otherwise waterproof it).
Yes, this is a low voltage connector. Yes, I doubt there is any heat issues with this. Someone on Facebook someone wrapped the connector with Teflon tape and water proof electrical tape. Personally, I'm checking some other things before I wrap the connector.
Instead of doing that, could I just put the tape around the outside of the wheel well covering the black felt so that water does not get in?
@@jimdonovan2207 The wheel well fabric also lets water in. There are also gaps underneath the car too. I will be doing a video showing how to protect the wheel well area with additional shielding.
Is that driver side where the speaker is?
Yes, the pedestrian warning speaker is located in front of the right wheel.
@ driver side wheel correct? Thanks as always for your videos
@@Tacocat123 Passenger side for North America.
Hello, my Fisker actually bricked for the problem here. It stopped accepting charge, windshield wipers gone crazy along with ultrasound sensor faults. When I opened it was dirty. I saw one pin was broke off. When I counted the cables coming from the one side (12 cable) was not corresponding the number of pins in side the connector(9 pins) Therefore I had to by pass the missing pins by soldering a separate 4 cables. As of now car drives, signal and ultrasonic sensor faults are gone.
@@palmtek Wow, very impressive. Have you thought about listing what you did on the FOA website? I think that would greatly help others.
hmmm i wonder if connector issues are the reason my fisker likes saying the charge door is open when it is not. Im gonna have to go through a lot of connectors and get them clean.
First look at your firmware level. The charge port open message was common prior to OS 2.1, and this update fixed this. As a tech, I always look at the firmware in devices before taking a screwdriver to something.
@@jkaiserling o thank you! ya, my ocean is 2.0. glad to know that's a firmware issue. still hoping ill get the update and not have to go in to do it manually.
No, the charge port door open was a bug introduced in the 2.0 update. It has been fixed with 2.1 and 2.2. I haven't seen the warning since getting 2.2 last month.
I'm actually surprised Magna's experienced assembly lines didn't do this.
HF probably did not want to pay additional $.02 it would cost
Great video. Actually none of the components in this car is in good quality. All picked from the lowest shelf or even the basement