Would you be able to post the link of the terminal cable and the Bluetooth monitor that you used in this video? I would rather purchase using your link from Amazon. Thanks for all you do for the Fisker community.
1. do i need to get the cable extender with the battery tender? 2. also i think your was a 4 amp, but there is a 5 amp and 4 amp on amazon 3. what make of bluetooth monitor did you buy? don
@@donshaffer7346 You can use a 4/5/6 Amp tender with this setup. I have an update video coming out with a slightly different higher amp (7-30 Amp) installation. I would hold off for a few days. The monitor is listed in the video description.
With regard to? If you mean the settings like doggie windows, yes removing the negative terminal will require them to be calibrated with a FAST. If you are having issues where you need to do a complete reset by removing the negative terminal, that may help. Is there a problem with the car?
@@MTNRanger the side mirror LCA lights won’t come on or the blinker light. One mirror also won’t fold . And ground light doesn’t come on for one of the mirrors
I don't know of many 12V chargers that show that information. Mine doesn't. Also, the monitor stores two weeks of data that is helpful to determine when problems are occurring.
No, it's always good to monitor the 12V battery. The tender is also good for when you are away for the car for a week or more - less vampire drain and less wear-and-tear on the high voltage battery pack.
Since I took delivery of my Ultra I went away three times for a week to 10 days without any issues. Minimal vampire drain. Left the car charged at 80%. @@MTNRanger
Thanks Matt. I successfully completed this today, but I had a problem that I'm hoping is not catastrophic. When screwing in the nut on the positive (red) terminal, the bolt became very hard to turn, but it wasn't tight. The battery monitor lead and the battery tender lead were very loose. I tried untightening and again, it was very hard to turn until the entire bolt snapped in half (i'm not that strong). I have a short video of this if you'd like to see it. I used the other positive terminal successfully, and the monitor and tender are both working as intended. I'm worried about that part that broke though ... seemed important. Any thoughts? thanks so much.
@@vmb5588 Wow, I’ve never seen or heard of that. Was the nut totally removed? If so, maybe it was threaded incorrectly. If you know a good mechanic, they should be able to fix this. I doubt the terminal bolt components are unique. Sorry to hear, I hope you get it fixed soon.
2 quick notes: 1. I added a little piece of velcro to the tender extender that comes out from the engine compartment & the matching piece is low on the windshield itself. Not sure if the tender cable would flop around without velcro, but now I donʻt have to dig around to find it. 2. The alligator clips that are removed from the battery tender make great chip clips!
I am NOT mechanically inclined at ALL. I've had my Ultra since December and I have not opened the hood even once. I wish I was mechanically inclined but I'm not. What advice, if any, can you give me to remain an Ocean owner WITHOUT having to do things like this? Thank you in advance.
@@robinpetersson3081 There are different cables but they all should be compatible. You may need to use a polarity adapter to make sure the negative and positive sides are correct. The one I used in the video was the six foot version by Battery Tender.
Thank you for your help in so many topics. We went to wedding for two nights. When we returned the car was dead. Not able to use NFT reader to unlock the car. I will call AAA to jumpstart the car. I will be buying battery tender and monitor but until then what do you suggest to do?
Dale Bugno After AAA jumped the car, I was able to unlock and start the car. I thought, doggy windows will not work but to my surprise California mode worked. I asked the AAA to check battery after jump start and it showed 13.1 volt. Before leaving for my trip I charged car to 80% and left charger connected so that it remains at 80% but it seems it did not help charge 12 volt battery. In the future I will connect the battery tender before leaving and also turn off auto mode for the headlights and also turn off Bluetooth.
@@MTNRangerDale Bugno After AAA jumped the car, I was able to unlock and start the car. I thought, doggy windows will not work but to my surprise California mode worked. I asked the AAA to check battery after jump start and it showed 13.1 volt. Before leaving for my trip I charged car to 80% and left charger connected so that it remains at 80% but it seems it did not help charge 12 volt battery. In the future I will connect the battery tender before leaving and also turn off auto mode for the headlights and also turn off Bluetooth.
@@СтанМах If you disconnect the 12V battery, you will lose the ability to do California mode with the doggie windows. If that's is okay with you, then go ahead.
I ended up filing a small notch in the front of the cover, allowing just enough room for the two cables to exit. I also used 3M double-sided tape to secure the BM2 to the cover. I’m seeing me 12-volt drain from 14 volts to 12.34 volts over the period of four hours. The vehicle then charges it back to 14 volts and the cycle repeats. Is there a non FAST Tool way to recalibrate the 12-volt system in the FO? I would think that the battery should never drain below 12.5 volts. Test Time: Aug 14/2024 11:10:16 56% 12.35V ) Low power
I think all Oceans on update 2.0 and 2.1 have a range of 12.3 to 12.8 and then it charges back up. Previous updates had the voltage dip below 12.0 often. I'm not aware of any calibration for the 12V charging from the HV pack.
Thank you very much for the educational videos. My understanding once it's installed, It takes power to run. The point is to not take power from the 12v when the vehicle is not operational. Pls correct me if I am wrong.
Outstanding video… a question and then a mod I did to help with the battery cover. Question - what is the range of 12V battery montoring levels I want to see? Mine has been around 14.12 but the tender still seems to charge, when will that be “topped off” Also, inside of the zip ties, I cut two small holes on the sides of the battery cover to run the tender and monitor cables- seemed much easier than trying to get the zip ties around the battery. Thanks for all you do Matt Nelson!
Thanks! If you look through my previous videos, I have done a few on the monitor. The tender seems to top off around 13.8 or so. Yes, I've though about cutting the cover, but it wasn't my car! But yes, that would work.
I fed the positive connections for the monitor and tender through the positive slot on top of the case. This way the case still snaps on top and you don't need to zip tie the 12v case one.
Thank you for excellent video. I install both monitor and tender today. I made small cut out in the box and in the cover to pass both wires so that I can close the battery cover and not have to use zip ties.
Hi Matt I have another question regarding recalibration. The Autoglass refuse to replace the windshield without completing the recalibration. So do you have any idea. I can your manual say " using Fisker after sale service tool. " 🤔😓. Thank you
That is the FAST that is mentioned that the service techs use. FOA is trying to get access to this. Right now it's extremely limited. If you haven't joined FOA, I would recommend it. Then you could post this on their forum and see if anyone can help.
Hi, thanks for posting. I know this video is a few weeks old but I have couple of questions (two related to the 12v, one not). Hoping you could help with answering them: 1. Every time I start up my Ocean One I get a notification of a low 12v. This has been happening for months. At the time the tech told me not to worry and that it would be corrected with the next update. It shows that I'm still on v2.0 (1/2), the version he updated me to. However, he assured me it's actually v2.0 (2/2). Have you been seeing this low 12v alert appear on startup? 2. Battery tender vs. Trickle charger? Is one preferred over the other? Would adding a trickle charger also work as a substitute? 3. My app no longer connects with the vehicle. Instead the app shows my order details. The only way I can get it to connect is to pair it every time I'm with the vehicle. Even then it only shows the lock / unlock feature and nothing else like state of charge level. Scrolling the tab below shows limited information with several lines showing "--------." The next time I open the app it goes back to showing order details. Is your app showing the same thing? Thanks.
Thanks, I'll be happy to answer. 1. I haven't received a low battery message when starting. Your 12V battery may be weakened. I would suggest installing a battery monitor (direct connection like in my videos, or one that plugs into a 12V outlet in the trunk. Check over time to see what the voltage is. 2. battery tender and trickle charger are interchangeable. Usually around 3-6 amps is good for charging the 12V. For jumping or a nearly dead battery, you need a higher amp charger, say, 20-35 amps. There are some models that do both. 3. Currently the Fisker-to-car cloud is down for the last two weeks. It is supposed to come back online, but we don't know when. Planning for the bankruptcy, the FOA is working on making a replacement cloud for when it goes down permanently.
Update: I used a Noco Genius 5 amp trickle charger. It didn't seem to do anything, it only shows it's in "standby mode." I also tried jumping the vehicle with my ICE vehicle. But upon restart it still shows the Low 12v message. I switched over to the Battery Tender to see if that does anything different. Currently the left side (LED 5) is flashing Green: indicating that the battery is greater than 80% charged. The right side (LED 1) is solid Amber: indicating a proper connection. I will wait to see if LED 5 ever turns solid green indicating a full charge, then compare to see what my vehicle shows on startup. I will also order the battery monitor. Good idea. Also, a few follow up questions: 1. Does the fact that the trickle charger shows "standby mode" mean my battery is compromised? I understand if you don't know the answer to this since you use the Battery Tender. 2. Is the Ocean's 12v battery Lithium or AGM/Standard (asking for the Battery Tender)? I wasn't able to find this information online. 3. After jumpstarting with my ICE vehicle I immediately drove the Ocean for another 20 - 25 minutes. Then I restarted with the same Low 12v message. In general, should a jumpstart help in a way the trickle charger / battery tender cannot? Or should the trickle charger / battery tender be more effective? 4. Upon starting I also receive alerts that other features will be turned off due to the low 12v. Sometimes they are in fact, off (ex. A/C is off), other times they are on (ex. A/C is on). Typically, none of the previous settings stay consistent upon restart. For example, if the A/C was set to 4 it might be at 1 upon restart - if at all. I know you don't have the low 12v issue(s) but do you find that the previous settings are irrelevant/changed each time you start up? 5. What version of software is your vehicle on? Mine has been stuck on v2.0 (1/2) since March, although the tech assured me I'm on 2.0 (2/2) and that everything would be fixed with the next OTA update. Just not sure how, where and when these updates are being pushed out. Thanks again.
@@mschruntek 1. Sorry not familiar with Noco products. 2. It's a 12V AGM battery. 3. A jump start is only good for starting up the car. It will need a constant charging - either with a battery charger or while the car is driving. It's sounding like the battery may need to be replaced. 4. The inconsistent AC settings has been an issue for some time. I think it's something that will require a software update to fix. I rarely see it on my car, it usually starts up with the previous setting. 5. I'm on 2.0 and waiting for 2.1. It is said that the techs updating the cars remotely will be checking on the modules. If needed they will send out a 2.0 update if required. That will be needed if any module is not up to date before 2.1 can be sent. That is why it's taking so long sending it out to all the 8000+ Oceans.
@@MTNRangerThanks so much for all your help. Latest Update: Believe it or not the 4A 11:12 Battery Tender did what the 5A Noco Trickle Charger could not. I have to admit, I was skeptical since it was a last resort but… it fully charged the 12v battery. Hooray. Now I no longer see the low 12v alert appear upon startup or any of the other messages that added to my Fisker anxiety. Maybe consider doing a video that compares both a trickle charger and Battery Tender, with the Battery Tender being the winner. At least it was in my case. Again, thank you.
Would you be able to post the link of the terminal cable and the Bluetooth monitor that you used in this video? I would rather purchase using your link from Amazon. Thanks for all you do for the Fisker community.
@@aakashpatel-dw5oi Yes, I meant to add the links to the video description. It’s updated now. amzn.to/46gJvGC
1. do i need to get the cable extender with the battery tender?
2. also i think your was a 4 amp, but there is a 5 amp and 4 amp on amazon
3. what make of bluetooth monitor did you buy?
don
@@donshaffer7346 You can use a 4/5/6 Amp tender with this setup. I have an update video coming out with a slightly different higher amp (7-30 Amp) installation. I would hold off for a few days. The monitor is listed in the video description.
Does it matter if I removed the negative connection completely to force a reset?
With regard to? If you mean the settings like doggie windows, yes removing the negative terminal will require them to be calibrated with a FAST. If you are having issues where you need to do a complete reset by removing the negative terminal, that may help. Is there a problem with the car?
@@MTNRanger the side mirror LCA lights won’t come on or the blinker light. One mirror also won’t fold . And ground light doesn’t come on for one of the mirrors
@@Sploitheworld Sound like a problem with the mirror module. All of those items are on one wiring harness.
Why bother with the BT monitor? The charger should provide the charge state information?
I don't know of many 12V chargers that show that information. Mine doesn't. Also, the monitor stores two weeks of data that is helpful to determine when problems are occurring.
Once you get software 2.1 will you be removing everything you just installed?
No, it's always good to monitor the 12V battery. The tender is also good for when you are away for the car for a week or more - less vampire drain and less wear-and-tear on the high voltage battery pack.
Since I took delivery of my Ultra I went away three times for a week to 10 days without any issues. Minimal vampire drain. Left the car charged at 80%. @@MTNRanger
@@jeffreymills4307 Yes, there appears to be great variation in vampire losses. Mine has about 1% a day on update 2.0.
Do you plug and leave the battery tender at night assuming 2.1 will install any day ?
@@sskv100 Yes.
Thanks Matt. I successfully completed this today, but I had a problem that I'm hoping is not catastrophic. When screwing in the nut on the positive (red) terminal, the bolt became very hard to turn, but it wasn't tight. The battery monitor lead and the battery tender lead were very loose. I tried untightening and again, it was very hard to turn until the entire bolt snapped in half (i'm not that strong). I have a short video of this if you'd like to see it. I used the other positive terminal successfully, and the monitor and tender are both working as intended. I'm worried about that part that broke though ... seemed important. Any thoughts? thanks so much.
@@vmb5588 Wow, I’ve never seen or heard of that. Was the nut totally removed? If so, maybe it was threaded incorrectly. If you know a good mechanic, they should be able to fix this. I doubt the terminal bolt components are unique. Sorry to hear, I hope you get it fixed soon.
2 quick notes:
1. I added a little piece of velcro to the tender extender that comes out from the engine compartment & the matching piece is low on the windshield itself. Not sure if the tender cable would flop around without velcro, but now I donʻt have to dig around to find it.
2. The alligator clips that are removed from the battery tender make great chip clips!
Good ideas!
I am NOT mechanically inclined at ALL. I've had my Ultra since December and I have not opened the hood even once. I wish I was mechanically inclined but I'm not. What advice, if any, can you give me to remain an Ocean owner WITHOUT having to do things like this? Thank you in advance.
Try to find someone that could do it for you - friend, auto repair shop, car audio installer, etc.
I ordered the 3ft cable from your links, but that's not the cable you use in the video.
@@robinpetersson3081 There are different cables but they all should be compatible. You may need to use a polarity adapter to make sure the negative and positive sides are correct. The one I used in the video was the six foot version by Battery Tender.
As always, thanks Matt. Did this today and works great. Question: what type of battery do we have - regular lead-acid or AGM?
It is a 12V AGM battery.
It is a 12V AGM battery.
Thank you for your help in so many topics.
We went to wedding for two nights. When we returned the car was dead. Not able to use NFT reader to unlock the car. I will call AAA to jumpstart the car. I will be buying battery tender and monitor but until then what do you suggest to do?
I wish you luck. There is a good video by Mike that may help you: ruclips.net/video/ur8d8e7LgDg/видео.html
@@MTNRangerThank you Matt.
Dale Bugno After AAA jumped the car, I was able to unlock and start the car. I thought, doggy windows will not work but to my surprise California mode worked. I asked the AAA to check battery after jump start and it showed 13.1 volt.
Before leaving for my trip I charged car to 80% and left charger connected so that it remains at 80% but it seems it did not help charge 12 volt battery.
In the future I will connect the battery tender before leaving and also turn off auto mode for the headlights and also turn off Bluetooth.
@@MTNRangerDale Bugno After AAA jumped the car, I was able to unlock and start the car. I thought, doggy windows will not work but to my surprise California mode worked. I asked the AAA to check battery after jump start and it showed 13.1 volt.
Before leaving for my trip I charged car to 80% and left charger connected so that it remains at 80% but it seems it did not help charge 12 volt battery.
In the future I will connect the battery tender before leaving and also turn off auto mode for the headlights and also turn off Bluetooth.
@@jatinshah1257 Very interesting. I would keep an eye on the voltage over time when you install a battery monitor. Hopefully it was a one time thing.
Hi, did you change the factory 12v battery to a new one?
@@СтанМах No, I haven’t. I’m still on the original.
I want to unplug to reboot the system. Do you think that's a good idea? The air conditioner does not work, and air does not blow
@@СтанМах If you disconnect the 12V battery, you will lose the ability to do California mode with the doggie windows. If that's is okay with you, then go ahead.
Thanks!
@@donshaffer7346 Thanks very much!
I ended up filing a small notch in the front of the cover, allowing just enough room for the two cables to exit. I also used 3M double-sided tape to secure the BM2 to the cover.
I’m seeing me 12-volt drain from 14 volts to 12.34 volts over the period of four hours. The vehicle then charges it back to 14 volts and the cycle repeats.
Is there a non FAST Tool way to recalibrate the 12-volt system in the FO?
I would think that the battery should never drain below 12.5 volts.
Test Time: Aug 14/2024 11:10:16
56%
12.35V
) Low power
I think all Oceans on update 2.0 and 2.1 have a range of 12.3 to 12.8 and then it charges back up. Previous updates had the voltage dip below 12.0 often. I'm not aware of any calibration for the 12V charging from the HV pack.
Thank you very much for the educational videos. My understanding once it's installed, It takes power to run. The point is to not take power from the 12v when the vehicle is not operational. Pls correct me if I am wrong.
The Bluetooth monitor uses a tiny amount of power - 0.0015 Amps.
Outstanding video… a question and then a mod I did to help with the battery cover.
Question - what is the range of 12V battery montoring levels I want to see? Mine has been around 14.12 but the tender still seems to charge, when will that be “topped off”
Also, inside of the zip ties, I cut two small holes on the sides of the battery cover to run the tender and monitor cables- seemed much easier than trying to get the zip ties around the battery.
Thanks for all you do Matt Nelson!
Thanks! If you look through my previous videos, I have done a few on the monitor. The tender seems to top off around 13.8 or so. Yes, I've though about cutting the cover, but it wasn't my car! But yes, that would work.
I fed the positive connections for the monitor and tender through the positive slot on top of the case. This way the case still snaps on top and you don't need to zip tie the 12v case one.
Good idea. There are several ways to work on this. Another is to cut a small hole near the positive terminal so the leads can go through.
Thank you! will be doing this today!
Will 750mA Charger and Maintainer work as well or I need to buy the 4 Amp?
I really wouldn't go below a 3 to 4 Amp unit. You could try it and see, but I think it would run a long time trying to charge it up.
Thank you for excellent video. I install both monitor and tender today. I made small cut out in the box and in the cover to pass both wires so that I can close the battery cover and not have to use zip ties.
Yes, modify the cover is definitely an alternative. Since it wasn't my car I wanted to keep it intact.
We did it Matt!!! Thanks
Hi Matt thanks for sharing. Is Ocean 12 voltage battery lead acid or lithium ?
@@chealay7251 It is an AGM lead acid 12V battery.
Hi Matt
I have another question regarding recalibration. The Autoglass refuse to replace the windshield without completing the recalibration. So do you have any idea. I can your manual say " using Fisker after sale service tool. " 🤔😓. Thank you
That is the FAST that is mentioned that the service techs use. FOA is trying to get access to this. Right now it's extremely limited. If you haven't joined FOA, I would recommend it. Then you could post this on their forum and see if anyone can help.
@@MTNRanger I have joint already
Do you have a link for the battery tender and extension cable?
@@mikeg3055 Yes, they are listed in the video description.
Any specific battery tender recommendation?
Yes, the one in the video description.
How often do you plug in the battery tender?
I try to plug in every night. Once the 2.1 update installs (maybe even 2.2), then I will probably only use it when I'm away for several days to weeks.
Hi, thanks for posting. I know this video is a few weeks old but I have couple of questions (two related to the 12v, one not). Hoping you could help with answering them:
1. Every time I start up my Ocean One I get a notification of a low 12v. This has been happening for months. At the time the tech told me not to worry and that it would be corrected with the next update. It shows that I'm still on v2.0 (1/2), the version he updated me to. However, he assured me it's actually v2.0 (2/2). Have you been seeing this low 12v alert appear on startup?
2. Battery tender vs. Trickle charger? Is one preferred over the other? Would adding a trickle charger also work as a substitute?
3. My app no longer connects with the vehicle. Instead the app shows my order details. The only way I can get it to connect is to pair it every time I'm with the vehicle. Even then it only shows the lock / unlock feature and nothing else like state of charge level. Scrolling the tab below shows limited information with several lines showing "--------." The next time I open the app it goes back to showing order details. Is your app showing the same thing?
Thanks.
Thanks, I'll be happy to answer. 1. I haven't received a low battery message when starting. Your 12V battery may be weakened. I would suggest installing a battery monitor (direct connection like in my videos, or one that plugs into a 12V outlet in the trunk. Check over time to see what the voltage is. 2. battery tender and trickle charger are interchangeable. Usually around 3-6 amps is good for charging the 12V. For jumping or a nearly dead battery, you need a higher amp charger, say, 20-35 amps. There are some models that do both. 3. Currently the Fisker-to-car cloud is down for the last two weeks. It is supposed to come back online, but we don't know when. Planning for the bankruptcy, the FOA is working on making a replacement cloud for when it goes down permanently.
@@MTNRanger Thanks so much.
Update: I used a Noco Genius 5 amp trickle charger. It didn't seem to do anything, it only shows it's in "standby mode."
I also tried jumping the vehicle with my ICE vehicle. But upon restart it still shows the Low 12v message.
I switched over to the Battery Tender to see if that does anything different. Currently the left side (LED 5) is flashing Green: indicating that the battery is greater than 80% charged. The right side (LED 1) is solid Amber: indicating a proper connection. I will wait to see if LED 5 ever turns solid green indicating a full charge, then compare to see what my vehicle shows on startup.
I will also order the battery monitor. Good idea.
Also, a few follow up questions:
1. Does the fact that the trickle charger shows "standby mode" mean my battery is compromised? I understand if you don't know the answer to this since you use the Battery Tender.
2. Is the Ocean's 12v battery Lithium or AGM/Standard (asking for the Battery Tender)? I wasn't able to find this information online.
3. After jumpstarting with my ICE vehicle I immediately drove the Ocean for another 20 - 25 minutes. Then I restarted with the same Low 12v message. In general, should a jumpstart help in a way the trickle charger / battery tender cannot? Or should the trickle charger / battery tender be more effective?
4. Upon starting I also receive alerts that other features will be turned off due to the low 12v. Sometimes they are in fact, off (ex. A/C is off), other times they are on (ex. A/C is on). Typically, none of the previous settings stay consistent upon restart. For example, if the A/C was set to 4 it might be at 1 upon restart - if at all. I know you don't have the low 12v issue(s) but do you find that the previous settings are irrelevant/changed each time you start up?
5. What version of software is your vehicle on? Mine has been stuck on v2.0 (1/2) since March, although the tech assured me I'm on 2.0 (2/2) and that everything would be fixed with the next OTA update. Just not sure how, where and when these updates are being pushed out.
Thanks again.
@@mschruntek 1. Sorry not familiar with Noco products. 2. It's a 12V AGM battery. 3. A jump start is only good for starting up the car. It will need a constant charging - either with a battery charger or while the car is driving. It's sounding like the battery may need to be replaced. 4. The inconsistent AC settings has been an issue for some time. I think it's something that will require a software update to fix. I rarely see it on my car, it usually starts up with the previous setting. 5. I'm on 2.0 and waiting for 2.1. It is said that the techs updating the cars remotely will be checking on the modules. If needed they will send out a 2.0 update if required. That will be needed if any module is not up to date before 2.1 can be sent. That is why it's taking so long sending it out to all the 8000+ Oceans.
@@MTNRangerThanks so much for all your help.
Latest Update:
Believe it or not the 4A 11:12 Battery Tender did what the 5A Noco Trickle Charger could not. I have to admit, I was skeptical since it was a last resort but… it fully charged the 12v battery. Hooray. Now I no longer see the low 12v alert appear upon startup or any of the other messages that added to my Fisker anxiety.
Maybe consider doing a video that compares both a trickle charger and Battery Tender, with the Battery Tender being the winner. At least it was in my case.
Again, thank you.