Hi, I started the process but dang that 3rd bolt holding the bracket to the battery simply won't come off. I saw other comments on the 1st bolt but mine is the last one near the pump reservoir. Any hints or ideas how I can get it taken off? I'm at a standstill. I've tried a lot of different things (hammering from the bottom, wd-40, holding the underneath near the bracket, etc.)...nothing seems to work. Since you saw everything up close I wondered if you have insight. Your video is excellent and I'm confident I can change my 12v with your video...thanks for all the videos you publish. You are my 'go-to' for help! :)
@@Cindy-hw3re I have yet to try mine. But some suggestions are to take a part flat head screwdriver or wedge under the loose retaining nut lip under the bolt and above the bracket. These may give enough friction to loosen the bolt. Another is to use a long nose vise grip pliers to hold on the retaining nut. I have also heard it may help to heat up the bolt head with a heat gun. Worst case I have heard is to cut off the bolt head and replace with a new bolt.
@@MTNRangerthank you for the response. I didn’t realize there is a type of nut underneath the bracket so I did use a locking plier to hold it and was able to get the bolt out. 🎉 now I’ll get battery and viruses looks fairly straightforward from your video 💕 I was curious if getting a diehard battery or another brand is worth considering. I’m in new territory here. I saw Vince Tran recommend a few batteries from Amazon but I’m going to buy one from either batteries plus or an auto parts store. I want to get this done today. Thanks again for all you do for our FOO community and the wonderful videos you post!! 😊. Sorry one more question. Did you use picture when you reinstalled the bolts? Thanks so much!!
darn auto correct; my last question was did you use Loctite when installing the screws? I actually forgot and didn't. I did break the clip on the other side of the battery bracket (back side); oh well...I'm sure it'll be ok.
@@rogerrice678 Great, sounds like a lot of people are using the Diehard. I thinks it’s the most accessible one to purchase. I do have another brand in house for testing.
that battery is a 50ah lead acid agm, so, that equates to about a 100ah sodium, or, in reverse, the sodium 50ah equates to a 25ah lead agm. If the voltage ever drops too low/discharged excessively from the updates in an agm, its toast.
Great video very helpful from MTN, thanks a lot! I have a question about the HT connector. If you disconnect the HT while keeping the 12V battery with a charger, will you keep all connections active and avoid a calibration with FAST (Ocean One)? I didn't find any information in tutos or on FOA discourse about this point.
@@MTNRanger Sorry, yes this is the HV (High Voltage) connector over the 12 V battery. My car should go in a garage and they plan to disconnect the HV battery. I understand that is through this connector, but I am not sure I will keep doggy windows . What do you think? Is there some tips ? Thank you for your Help.
@@boldair63 I kept the service power disconnect as is. I didn't want to possibly turn off power to the car. If they are disconnecting the HV pack, they will also disconnect the 12V battery. So you will lose settings in any case.
MTN Ranger please forgive me if this a duplication. when i commented earlier i had some other things to say, but i can't find them 1. thanks to your videos, s friend and I attempted to replace the battery. we hit a snag and could not remove the front 13mm bolt on the battery bar. so we were unsuccessful 2. however we were able to hook up the battery monitor and 32A tender. a curious event occurred. the tender gave an error code that suggested we had hook up the leads wrong (we didn't). test on our unused new battery showed the cables were opposite color, i.e., black positive , etc. 3. in the extension packet i bought there was an an adapter and when we attached it reversed the connection. i am at s loss to explain but was curious about your thoughts thank you
1. Yes, earlier production has battery bar bolts that are on too tight and rip off the lock nut underneath the bar. Extremely hard to fix. Some people have use needle nose lock pliers to get it free. I'm going to have to replace mine eventually and I'm not sure what I'm going to find! 2/3. Yes, that can happen, you have to make sure that when you hook the tender up, the polarity is correct for the tender side and the battery side. They include the adapter just in case they don't match.
Hello again. I am going to be swapping my 12v and I have already grabbed the tools needed to do so. Excellent video on the hod opening and this one on the donor battery inline to keep the Ocean powered. Any advice on the specific Ocean replacement battery needed? I'll be searching around but I bet Autozone will not have reference to the battery needed. Thanks for any advice here. I will also be connecting a tender, will also watch your video on that as well. Cheers.
I still need to do a video on battery options. Here are some that work: Super Start Platinum 140RPLT 12V AGM battery www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/platinum/super-start-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-140r/ssbq/140rplt DieHard H4-XEV shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-ev-battery-h4-group-size-570-cca-710-ca-80-minute-reserve-capacity-h4-xev/50001093-P UPLUS BCI Group 140R Car Battery, AGM-L50-UP amzn.to/3YUtGUi Interstate MTX-H4 www.interstatebatteries.com/products/mtx-h4
It is possible to replace the AGM 12V battery with a LiFePO4 12V battery. It's not certain how the car's IBS will treat it. Some have their own BMS and I don't know at this point.
Yep. The doggie windows, if power is lost, will need to be recalibrated using the FAST tool. So they will no longer function. Worse would be if you did this with the doggie windows down. So you want to maintain power.
Curious if it gets hot in the compartment there? Wondering if you'd be able to use a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery as a replacement over the lead acid that you put in there, especially since it's not a starter battery. Prices have come way down, they're a lot lighter, and they get significantly more charge cycles.
@@ericjansen9042 Some people are experimenting with LiFePo and also LiNa batteries. I’m still waiting to hear the results. If those batteries have a built-in BMS then they work fine. Otherwise I worry that the car will not charge them correctly.
Matt, I’ve had my FOO since 10/13/23, I keep my SOC at 80-90% and travel mostly locally.My question is, I haven’t had any 12V battery issues, I monitor the voltage and it stays at 14V or so. With all the talk about 12V failures what should I be considering given my 12V is now 13 months old? Once changed, should the 12V be changed every year? Cheers!
If your 12V is doing fine, there is nothing to be worried about. I just suggest checking with the monitoring app every few weeks to see how it's going.
I recently purchased a 100 Ah LiFePo battery but it measures about 4.5" too long to fit. It's possible if the battery shape more closely matches 7.5" H x 7" W x 8" L
I did the same but brought out the cables to the access panel area mounted them there onto the black plastic permanently so in the future if needed to jump or trickle charge the 12v battery without opening the hood and removing any bolts. Saving that step and making it quick to charge the battery.
Oh yes, there are a bunch of ways of doing this. Today I upgraded the tender cables on my car to accept higher amp capability than the originals provided. Now I can attach a donor battery to it without having to do the temporary setup in this video.
@@christianhinkel9251 Yes, the original Battery Tender brand ones were 16 AWG (6’ and 18”) with 7.5 A fuse. The new one I got is 3’ 10 AWG with 30 A fuse. I also avoided having to use two connected cables to get it outside the car. amzn.to/3Tkqvlc I have seen a couple 8 AWG but only in very short lengths (1ft).
Good question. If you have a battery charger that can go into power supply mode, that would be best. Otherwise, I think the tender will turn off when the battery is disconnected. Also, I think it would have to be a fairly high amp charger, say 20 amps or so. I went with the simplest solution and most fault tolerant!
Ohhh there were a couple of cringy moments there. Loved the two camera angles. Very helpful. I hope I never have to do this. But very much appreciated as always.
@@MTNRanger No, no. What I meant was that I was anxious for you that something was going to break (pulling the two plastic holders 🫣) or working around the battery in such a tight space. Thanks for checking.
Thank you very much for the tutorial - very helpful. 2 questions... How long should I expect this process to take, start to finish? Also, is it mandatory to have a donor battery or can this be performed without one and what would the downsides be if I did not have a donor? Thanks again for all the great content!!
There are many factors that could affect time to install. I would give yourself a solid two hours just to be safe. The donor battery is so you don’t lose settings like doggie windows. You will need an in person tech to configure those windows - otherwise they will not work.
Hey there. I got a comment, since I mentioned this video, and the comment said that he wasn't sure of the status of the doggie windows after following your keeping power to the Ocean during this battery swap. I'm pretty sure the doggie windows do not need recalibration after doing it this way, correct? I'm pretty sure that keeping the Ocean powered that there would be no issue with the doggie windows. Correct?
Yes, by keeping the car powered, you will not cause the doggie windows to lose their connection and need to be reset. I'll be doing it again when I replace my 12V battery at some point.
Success! We had installed the Battery Tender a week ago per your video and used that as a the donor battery for the 12v Battery replacement completed yesterday. (Ended up using the Super Start Platinum.) Thanks again MTN!
I'm planning on doing a 12V battery video going over the options that will work. The two easiest to find are the DieHard H4-XEV (used in this video) and the Super Start Platinum 140RPLT.
Can someone please explain why my interior light ICONS are staying on when I lock the doors? I’m running software version 2.0. Also my 12 volt battery will drop voltage and sometimes when I first use the car I would get a 12 volt battery warning. The rest of the time that day I receive no more 12 volt warning. Also when I charge my High Voltage battery to 80% state of charge overnight it only charges up to 79%. It use to charge up to 80% overnight. Because of the 12 volt battery warning I keep the 12 volt battery on a battery tender. ANY IDEA WHATS WRONG OR GOING ON ? Best Regards,
You are most likely getting vampire drain over night. That's why there is a missing 1%. The drain seems to vary between updates. But it generally gets less. The interior lights turn on from time to time when the high voltage battery pack is charging the 12V battery. It's kind of a Sisyphean Loop here since it's adding to the drain. I think it will improve once you get to version 2.2.
@@MTNRanger Thanks, BUT it is not the interior lights that stay on but the Overhead ICONS, like for the cabin light or the reading light icon. I think this could be causing 12volt draining.
Thanks. Also I noticed after I charged up to 100% it went out. Also on my trip this weekend Electrify America charges only gave me a max output of 34kw. Is this a Fisker bug. I use to get 121kw
@@MTNRanger Thanks Matt I sent an email to Fisker FOA about a CRITICAL ISSUES. And that is. this weekend my wife and I almost got KILLED when driving back to Atlanta at 75 miles all of a Sutton my car LOST POWER which all the small display sensors going off until the car slowed down to 4 miles and then just shut off. Thanks God I was able to drive off the road. Once I did that I Waited about two minutes and restarted the car and drove on. -- Do you have any idea what happened. I told my wife if it was the water pump then the car would nolonger drive about 30 miles/hour, but this did not happen. We were able to drive once again back up to 75 miles/hours. I currently still have S/W version 2.0. BTW I was driving back from New Orleans to Atlanta.
Nice.. Thanks, had bewn wondering about this, it must be possible to change the battery without loosing functionality. At this point, if Fisker can come up with an OTA, they should just remove the internet dependency for california mode.
In good old Fisker style, the UK RHD battery is on the other side and buried under quite a lot more of the cars structure. You cant even get the top plastic cover off of the battery bus bar without removing several metal brackets - its a nightmare. LHD version is much easier.
I am a huge fan of your videos. However, this one gave me some serious angina! DO NOT use metal tools right next to the connected positive terminal with the protective cover removed. You should use standard plastic trim removal tools (like $5 at harbor freight) and you can't arc if you accidentally touch terminal and the connectors will come off easier.
Sorry, I replied before watching all the way through. If you disconnect the negative terminal and lift it up, battery hold down bar will rotate out under the negative cable and under fender. It rotates on the coolant resevoir and will spin outward easily. It will then be completely out of the way and will not interfere with either the battery or the positive cable/bus assembly. The positive bus assembly can then be rotated where you have the amazon bag/battery hold down bar. The same coolant resevoir can be used to tuck the bus bar against (is plastic, won't arc) and it's pretty easy to get get battery out without things in the way.
@@esrandl Thanks, it was a learning experience since the Ocean design doesn't make things easy. Nobody has posted instructions with this specific info, so it was all new to me.
Thanks!
@@donshaffer7346 Thank you, I appreciate it!
Hi, I started the process but dang that 3rd bolt holding the bracket to the battery simply won't come off. I saw other comments on the 1st bolt but mine is the last one near the pump reservoir. Any hints or ideas how I can get it taken off? I'm at a standstill. I've tried a lot of different things (hammering from the bottom, wd-40, holding the underneath near the bracket, etc.)...nothing seems to work. Since you saw everything up close I wondered if you have insight. Your video is excellent and I'm confident I can change my 12v with your video...thanks for all the videos you publish. You are my 'go-to' for help! :)
@@Cindy-hw3re I have yet to try mine. But some suggestions are to take a part flat head screwdriver or wedge under the loose retaining nut lip under the bolt and above the bracket. These may give enough friction to loosen the bolt. Another is to use a long nose vise grip pliers to hold on the retaining nut. I have also heard it may help to heat up the bolt head with a heat gun. Worst case I have heard is to cut off the bolt head and replace with a new bolt.
@@MTNRangerthank you for the response. I didn’t realize there is a type of nut underneath the bracket so I did use a locking plier to hold it and was able to get the bolt out. 🎉 now I’ll get battery and viruses looks fairly straightforward from your video 💕 I was curious if getting a diehard battery or another brand is worth considering. I’m in new territory here. I saw Vince Tran recommend a few batteries from Amazon but I’m going to buy one from either batteries plus or an auto parts store. I want to get this done today. Thanks again for all you do for our FOO community and the wonderful videos you post!! 😊. Sorry one more question. Did you use picture when you reinstalled the bolts? Thanks so much!!
darn auto correct; my last question was did you use Loctite when installing the screws? I actually forgot and didn't. I did break the clip on the other side of the battery bracket (back side); oh well...I'm sure it'll be ok.
@ Any of the H4 batteries should work. I purchased the U-plus from Amazon.
@ No, I don’t think Lock-tite is appropriate for the battery bracket.
Great Video! Thanks, Matt. Changed my 12v to a Die Hard EV yesterday and it worked perfectly! Much appreciation.
@@rogerrice678 Great, sounds like a lot of people are using the Diehard. I thinks it’s the most accessible one to purchase. I do have another brand in house for testing.
that battery is a 50ah lead acid agm, so, that equates to about a 100ah sodium, or, in reverse, the sodium 50ah equates to a 25ah lead agm. If the voltage ever drops too low/discharged excessively from the updates in an agm, its toast.
What’s best battery brand/model to replace with?
I'm working on that. I just purchased one recently.
Great video very helpful from MTN, thanks a lot! I have a question about the HT connector. If you disconnect the HT while keeping the 12V battery with a charger, will you keep all connections active and avoid a calibration with FAST (Ocean One)? I didn't find any information in tutos or on FOA discourse about this point.
Sorry, what's the HT connector? Are you taking about the service power disconnect that located on the fender bracket?
@@MTNRanger Sorry, yes this is the HV (High Voltage) connector over the 12 V battery. My car should go in a garage and they plan to disconnect the HV battery. I understand that is through this connector, but I am not sure I will keep doggy windows . What do you think? Is there some tips ? Thank you for your Help.
@@boldair63 I kept the service power disconnect as is. I didn't want to possibly turn off power to the car. If they are disconnecting the HV pack, they will also disconnect the 12V battery. So you will lose settings in any case.
MTN Ranger
please forgive me if this a duplication. when i commented earlier i had some other things to say, but i can't find them
1. thanks to your videos, s friend and I attempted to replace the battery. we hit a snag and could not remove the front 13mm bolt on the battery bar. so we were unsuccessful
2. however we were able to hook up the battery monitor and 32A tender. a curious event occurred. the tender gave an error code that suggested we had hook up the leads wrong (we didn't). test on our unused new battery showed the cables were opposite color, i.e., black positive , etc.
3. in the extension packet i bought there was an an adapter and when we attached it reversed the connection. i am at s loss to explain but was curious about your thoughts
thank you
1. Yes, earlier production has battery bar bolts that are on too tight and rip off the lock nut underneath the bar. Extremely hard to fix. Some people have use needle nose lock pliers to get it free. I'm going to have to replace mine eventually and I'm not sure what I'm going to find!
2/3. Yes, that can happen, you have to make sure that when you hook the tender up, the polarity is correct for the tender side and the battery side. They include the adapter just in case they don't match.
Hello again. I am going to be swapping my 12v and I have already grabbed the tools needed to do so. Excellent video on the hod opening and this one on the donor battery inline to keep the Ocean powered. Any advice on the specific Ocean replacement battery needed? I'll be searching around but I bet Autozone will not have reference to the battery needed. Thanks for any advice here. I will also be connecting a tender, will also watch your video on that as well. Cheers.
I still need to do a video on battery options. Here are some that work:
Super Start Platinum 140RPLT 12V AGM battery
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/platinum/super-start-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-140r/ssbq/140rplt
DieHard H4-XEV
shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-ev-battery-h4-group-size-570-cca-710-ca-80-minute-reserve-capacity-h4-xev/50001093-P
UPLUS BCI Group 140R Car Battery, AGM-L50-UP
amzn.to/3YUtGUi
Interstate MTX-H4
www.interstatebatteries.com/products/mtx-h4
Hi matt can you replace with lithium battery instead Acid battery?
It is possible to replace the AGM 12V battery with a LiFePO4 12V battery. It's not certain how the car's IBS will treat it. Some have their own BMS and I don't know at this point.
Can you explain why you went though the trouble of making sure the car didnt loose power? Does that mess up the car in some way?
Yep. The doggie windows, if power is lost, will need to be recalibrated using the FAST tool. So they will no longer function. Worse would be if you did this with the doggie windows down. So you want to maintain power.
Curious if it gets hot in the compartment there? Wondering if you'd be able to use a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery as a replacement over the lead acid that you put in there, especially since it's not a starter battery. Prices have come way down, they're a lot lighter, and they get significantly more charge cycles.
@@ericjansen9042 Some people are experimenting with LiFePo and also LiNa batteries. I’m still waiting to hear the results. If those batteries have a built-in BMS then they work fine. Otherwise I worry that the car will not charge them correctly.
Matt, I’ve had my FOO since 10/13/23, I keep my SOC at 80-90% and travel mostly locally.My question is, I haven’t had any 12V battery issues, I monitor the voltage and it stays at 14V or so. With all the talk about 12V failures what should I be considering given my 12V is now 13 months old? Once changed, should the 12V be changed every year? Cheers!
If your 12V is doing fine, there is nothing to be worried about. I just suggest checking with the monitoring app every few weeks to see how it's going.
Thank you for educational video as always. This will be most valuable to the owners.
If I don't have a 12V donor battery, can I hook it to a 12V battery in my friend's car?
I haven't tested, but that will probably work.
Will it need calibration after changing 12v battery?
@@Sploitheworld As long as you don’t lose power, there should not be a need for calibration (as far as I am aware).
awesome job as always
Can I put lifepo4 batt? How about 100 ah?
I recently purchased a 100 Ah LiFePo battery but it measures about 4.5" too long to fit. It's possible if the battery shape more closely matches 7.5" H x 7" W x 8" L
Thanks! You also need to make sure that both the donor and new 12 V batteries are charged before starting this procedure.
@@movingforward20 Yes, good point. I didn’t mention that in the video.
As Always, a great Video by MTN!!! Thank you!!
I did the same but brought out the cables to the access panel area mounted them there onto the black plastic permanently so in the future if needed to jump or trickle charge the 12v battery without opening the hood and removing any bolts. Saving that step and making it quick to charge the battery.
Oh yes, there are a bunch of ways of doing this. Today I upgraded the tender cables on my car to accept higher amp capability than the originals provided. Now I can attach a donor battery to it without having to do the temporary setup in this video.
@@MTNRanger Did you use lower gauge SAE cables for that upgrade? I've been thinking about doing the same but haven't found any sufficiently thicc yet.
@@christianhinkel9251 Yes, the original Battery Tender brand ones were 16 AWG (6’ and 18”) with 7.5 A fuse. The new one I got is 3’ 10 AWG with 30 A fuse. I also avoided having to use two connected cables to get it outside the car. amzn.to/3Tkqvlc I have seen a couple 8 AWG but only in very short lengths (1ft).
Great video. Can you use a battery tender in place of the donor battery???
Good question. If you have a battery charger that can go into power supply mode, that would be best. Otherwise, I think the tender will turn off when the battery is disconnected. Also, I think it would have to be a fairly high amp charger, say 20 amps or so. I went with the simplest solution and most fault tolerant!
Ohhh there were a couple of cringy moments there. Loved the two camera angles. Very helpful. I hope I never have to do this. But very much appreciated as always.
By cringy, are there any suggestions or questions?
@@MTNRanger No, no. What I meant was that I was anxious for you that something was going to break (pulling the two plastic holders 🫣) or working around the battery in such a tight space. Thanks for checking.
Thank you very much for the tutorial - very helpful. 2 questions... How long should I expect this process to take, start to finish? Also, is it mandatory to have a donor battery or can this be performed without one and what would the downsides be if I did not have a donor? Thanks again for all the great content!!
There are many factors that could affect time to install. I would give yourself a solid two hours just to be safe. The donor battery is so you don’t lose settings like doggie windows. You will need an in person tech to configure those windows - otherwise they will not work.
Is it possible to do this using an ODB2 tender? it would be so much easier.
Unfortunately the OBD2 power adapter does not have enough amps to use as a donor. Someone I know tried and it blew the fuse.
Hey there. I got a comment, since I mentioned this video, and the comment said that he wasn't sure of the status of the doggie windows after following your keeping power to the Ocean during this battery swap. I'm pretty sure the doggie windows do not need recalibration after doing it this way, correct? I'm pretty sure that keeping the Ocean powered that there would be no issue with the doggie windows. Correct?
Yes, by keeping the car powered, you will not cause the doggie windows to lose their connection and need to be reset. I'll be doing it again when I replace my 12V battery at some point.
Great Video! I just gat a Low 12v Battery warning on my FOO, so I will be using this for reference when I go to replace it. Thank You MTN!
Good luck, let me know how it turns out.
Success! We had installed the Battery Tender a week ago per your video and used that as a the donor battery for the 12v Battery replacement completed yesterday. (Ended up using the Super Start Platinum.) Thanks again MTN!
@@ETrakker Glad it worked out.
where do i get the battery need to replace mine?
Advance auto parts
I'm planning on doing a 12V battery video going over the options that will work. The two easiest to find are the DieHard H4-XEV (used in this video) and the Super Start Platinum 140RPLT.
Can someone please explain why my interior light ICONS are staying on when I lock the doors? I’m running software version 2.0. Also my 12 volt battery will drop voltage and sometimes when I first use the car I would get a 12 volt battery warning. The rest of the time that day I receive no more 12 volt warning. Also when I charge my High Voltage battery to 80% state of charge overnight it only charges up to 79%. It use to charge up to 80% overnight. Because of the 12 volt battery warning I keep the 12 volt battery on a battery tender.
ANY IDEA WHATS WRONG OR GOING ON ?
Best Regards,
You are most likely getting vampire drain over night. That's why there is a missing 1%. The drain seems to vary between updates. But it generally gets less. The interior lights turn on from time to time when the high voltage battery pack is charging the 12V battery. It's kind of a Sisyphean Loop here since it's adding to the drain. I think it will improve once you get to version 2.2.
@@MTNRanger Thanks, BUT it is not the interior lights that stay on but the Overhead ICONS, like for the cabin light or the reading light icon. I think this could be causing 12volt draining.
@@120Loop I sometimes get random lights turn on light the overhead buttons and or the ambient lights (even when turned off). It seems like a bug.
Thanks. Also I noticed after I charged up to 100% it went out. Also on my trip this weekend Electrify America charges only gave me a max output of 34kw. Is this a Fisker bug. I use to get 121kw
@@MTNRanger Thanks Matt I sent an email to Fisker FOA about a CRITICAL ISSUES. And that is. this weekend my wife and I almost got KILLED when driving back to Atlanta at 75 miles all of a Sutton my car LOST POWER which all the small display sensors going off until the car slowed down to 4 miles and then just shut off. Thanks God I was able to drive off the road. Once I did that I Waited about two minutes and restarted the car and drove on. -- Do you have any idea what happened. I told my wife if it was the water pump then the car would nolonger drive about 30 miles/hour, but this did not happen. We were able to drive once again back up to 75 miles/hours. I currently still have S/W version 2.0. BTW I was driving back from New Orleans to Atlanta.
Is it mandatory to remove the fuse to avoid alarm ? (I mean I don’t care about doggy window settings and I all care about replacing battery.).
It's not mandatory. But there is a good chance the alarm will siren if you remove the battery leads unless you are using a donor battery like I did.
Nice.. Thanks, had bewn wondering about this, it must be possible to change the battery without loosing functionality. At this point, if Fisker can come up with an OTA, they should just remove the internet dependency for california mode.
In good old Fisker style, the UK RHD battery is on the other side and buried under quite a lot more of the cars structure. You cant even get the top plastic cover off of the battery bus bar without removing several metal brackets - its a nightmare. LHD version is much easier.
@@ColinSnell-k5r Wow, I didn’t think it could get worse!
I am a huge fan of your videos. However, this one gave me some serious angina! DO NOT use metal tools right next to the connected positive terminal with the protective cover removed. You should use standard plastic trim removal tools (like $5 at harbor freight) and you can't arc if you accidentally touch terminal and the connectors will come off easier.
Sorry, I replied before watching all the way through. If you disconnect the negative terminal and lift it up, battery hold down bar will rotate out under the negative cable and under fender. It rotates on the coolant resevoir and will spin outward easily. It will then be completely out of the way and will not interfere with either the battery or the positive cable/bus assembly. The positive bus assembly can then be rotated where you have the amazon bag/battery hold down bar. The same coolant resevoir can be used to tuck the bus bar against (is plastic, won't arc) and it's pretty easy to get get battery out without things in the way.
Yes, I did have the plastic trim tools with me. Thanks for reminding me!
@@esrandl Thanks, it was a learning experience since the Ocean design doesn't make things easy. Nobody has posted instructions with this specific info, so it was all new to me.
Curious if you verified the doggie windows didn’t need to be recalibrated after this exercise?
@@derrickconnor940 Unfortunately we did not. There are other issues we were dealing with (the HV battery pack would not charge from the J1772 port).
Good work . A lot of moving parts. Just replaced 12 v battery. Not very good design.
Yes, it's the most difficult 12V replacement I have ever done.