Installing Pergo Outlast ( Time Lapse With Detailed Instructions)
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- Опубликовано: 19 дек 2020
- This video is a basic tutorial installation for installing Pergo Outlast laminate flooring. Some of the video is time lapsed for convenience but the important things are covered in detail. Pergo Outlast is different than older style laminates. It has been specially designed to take spills so that any liquid does not penetrate the seams the way ordinary laminate does. It is a great alternative to tile or LVP if you’re looking for something a little thicker. Be sure to leave any questions in the comments and any video ideas you may have for future videos.
Thank you to all the subscribers and supporters of this channel!
Pergo Outlast Installation Instructions:
2020_06_OP Uniclic install web english only.indd (homedepot-static.com)
Tools You May Need: (affiliate links below)
Laminate Cutter
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Dewalt Jig Saw
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Dewalt Circular Saw
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Dewalt Table Saw
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Angle Finder
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
CA Glue
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Speed Square
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Pry Bar
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Tape Measure
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
White Putty
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Dark Walnut Putty
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Other Colors of Putty (in case you do a different color)
Ebony Putty
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Cherry Putty
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Light Birch Putty
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Honey Oak Putty
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Briarwood Putty
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Walnut Putty
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Light Oak
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
16 Color Putty Kit
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I will receive a small commission (at no extra cost to you of course). This helps support the channel and allows me to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for your support!
Dude you're good at this. You got great carpet removal technique. Love the way you tie up the carpet strips and how you held onto a piece of padding to wrap up all those tack strips. Very nice.
Peace to you and your wife. Thanks for your posts. Very informative 👏
Thank you
You’ve some of the most helpful, insightful, and detail oriented video’s yet, on multiple levels...thank you!
Thank you so much.
Excellent demo. You are very detailed and thorough. Great tips
Great tips and tricks. This video saved our project and my sanity. Can not thank you enough!!
Glad we could help. I knew you could do it. Thanks for the comment
You and you wife make a great team and did a great job!
I appreciate that. People say all the time... I don't know how you do it, but honestly, I don't know how I would do it without her. Thanks for the comment
Great video! I use the pull bar that comes in the installation kits to install the last row. Works great!
Right on. I use them to but the prybar is my go to tool to tighten it all up. Thanks for the tip. And the comm6
Everything you talk about in this video is dead on. Some i learn the hard way. Haha this video was very helpful. I used you tips and did my entire second floor. One of the best on youtube!! Thank you 🙏🏼
Thank you
Thanks man for your work. The first one who had an answer to my struggles of fitting a laminate board between two previously laid ones. Your carpet rolling is classy. I also like the that fact you’re a team with your Mrs, kudos to both of you. I respect that.
Right on. I appreciate that. Thanks for the veiw and taking time for a comment. See ya on the next one
I've watched dozens of these videos and this is the best as far as dealing with those pesky corners and how to cut the end pieces when you get close to the wall. Super install!
Thank you. And thanks for the comment
Great video--clear and innovative!
Thank so much 👍👊
Thank you so much for sharing this video. It's detailed and very helpful.
You got it Mary. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR I’m trying my best to install the floor now, but it keeps rising up. What’s the best way to make it lay flat
Very good for remove carpet and wrap it. Very good ideas.
Thank you
That scrap piece tip is one of my favorites.
Pull bars have their place depending what product you're using.
My man. We think the same. Hey I had an idea for a pull bar. Then after browsing the internet I found this thing called laminate hammer. OH NO ITS MY IDEA.!!!! Check it out on Home depot website. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR the Lam-Hammer?
I designed that. jk lol
Great video and install job! Many great tips, thank you for sharing your expertise!
No problem. Thanks for the comment. See ya on the next one
Thank you for this video. I have installed this flooring a few times and I still learned so much from you. My knees hurt just watching you work without knee pads though. I am going to be 72 soon and I wish I had used knee pads more as a young man. Not preaching just suggesting. Thanks again, great informative videos.
Lol. Oh I use them. Just not as often as I should . You're right. Only get one set of knees. It will catch up to me when I'm older. Thanks for the comment.
That last row is a bear, thanks so much for this video it helped a lot. Just installed my first Pergo Outlast floor. Just need to apply the seal over the foam and add the base boards back.
Right on brother. Glad to hear it worked out. You're almost there. Good luck. You got this! THANKS FOR THE COMMENT
most helpful video I have seen. The pattern layout was my main concern and you didn't wait until an hour into video like some of these videos. I appreciate that. But I did watch the entire video. I will be coming back to this one I begin my project!
Awesome. Good to hear. Hope your project is a smash hit. Good luck. See ya on the next one
I am just about to take this project on myself, I found your video extremely helpful. Thank you!
Glad to hear. Good luck on your project
Until you try to pop in the second board at 45 degrees the first one pops out
Love this video I always come back to it!!!!
That's awesome. Glad to hear this. Thank you so much
Good instructions on the details on what to do, thanks!
Lol. It's funny how people's comments are completely opposite sometimes. One guy was at his wit's end with this stuff other catch on immediately 😂 Anyway thanks for the comment. See ya on the next one
thanks for the tips! i was on the fence whether i was going to attempt this or not, you made it look real easy so im going for it!
Awesome!! You got this. Good luck with your project. Thanks for the comment
@george koopman if you want to take some before and after pics and email them to me that would be great! If I can get enough pics from viewers I can put a video together with all of y’all’s projects! Let me know if you have any questions while doing the project.
YouFloor.net@gmail.com
Did you ever try installing this? Curious how it turned out!
@@kelliehunt58 long story short, no, i let the guys doing the rest of the remodel do it. they knocked it out really fast
I now know how I'm going to install my laminate tomorrow, thx!
Right on
Best video for newbies! Thanks
You got it. Thanks for the comment
It actually says it’s waterproof not water resistant. Best tutorial I’ve ever seen on RUclips. Hopefully my builder does as good as you did
Thank you. Hard to fi d anything water proof. Good eye
Thanks to this video I just laid my very own floor for the first time and it’s beautiful! Thank you!
@Michelle Freligh That is AWESOME! Glad to hear the video helped with your project. I would love to see pics of the floor you installed! If you don't mind sending some pics, please email them to youfloor.net@gmail.com
Look forward to seeing them!
Awesome demo technique!
Thanks Perry. Appreciate the comment
nice.. and quarter rounds are an installer's best friend.
You know it brotha. Thanks for the comment
You and your wife are a great team, my husband and I would be so frustrated and probably get divorced on this project.. it looks beautiful and thanks for the tips.
Ha ha. Don't think we don't have our moments. Wish I could get some of those moments on video. But she's a good teammate. Thanks for the positivity and the comment
This made me LOL! Ditto for me and my wife. (We tried, and we MAY be getting divorced over it!)
THANK YOU for this video. My husband and I were just about to pack up all of the boxes of flooring and return them. We were stuck on the 2nd board in the 2nd row. It did take us about an hour to get to the 3rd board of the 2nd row. But, we did it!
Awesome! Looks like you're on your way. Thanks for the comment
Great videos…we are replacing old carpet, I was thinking about leaving the carpet padding to bring the Outlast even with my bathroom floor I just did, do you see any issues with that?
Thanks for your help!@@YOUFLOOR
You will for sure have issues. The padding is not strong enough to support any flooring. It will make every step squishy and eventually the seams will start breaking over some time. If you want to bring up the floor you'll need to cap it with luan or 1/2 inch plywood. Or what ever will match your floors to bring it up. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
You are the man…have a blessed weekend
I’ve used and I love it.
That's awesome 👌. Good to hear. Thanks for the comment
Great video!
Thank a lot
I’ve installed many vinyl floors. From cheap internet stores ($2.10 SF) to nice higher end floor (Mohawk $5-$6 SF). By far the most difficult to install was the LifeProof.
Really? I don't really have a problem with the viynl planks. But if you go into the lifeproof bamboo thinking it installs anything like normal lvp you are in for a self taught clinic. I bout lost my mind trying to connect 2 pieces together and under the door jamb too.. and it is so hard to cut both in difficulty and in hardness of the wood. Thanks for the comment. Peace
Great tips.
Hey I have a question about tiling the metal front of a fireplace with slate stone. I plan on attaching it to cement board and then placing it over the metal front but I am looking for a high heat adhesive that will work for this do you have any suggestions on a brand that might work
Whaow what a smart tucked in😎
Thank you😁
@@YOUFLOOR No, pleasure is all mine. I've learnt something wicked 👌♥️ thank you!
Thank you!
No problem. Thanks for the comment
Thanks for this helpful video! My question is about switching plank direction in a doorway. We’ll be installing Pergo Elements Preferred in a long dining room, through a regular width doorway and then on into a long kitchen that sits perpendicular to the dining room. We want to run the planks parallel to the length of the rooms. What would you advise as the best way to transition the planks at that one doorway?
Well if the subfloor is same height and you're using same flooring in both rooms, then you should be able to use a t mold to join the rooms together. Even if you tried to turn the laminate and lock an end to a long run. The planks would have to be random lengths in order to continue flooring in that room. So yeah I would use a t mold. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Good job
Thank you
If you have an open room like this and a helper it is so much faster and easier to connect the whole row and the entire row into the already completed row.
I totally agree 👍. Maybe because all put together, it makes on big heavy plank and gravity assist. That is just my guess. But it is much easier. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR
No, thank you for the video. You've made alot of people's lives easier. You have great energy! Take care
Great video! What's your opinion on the Mannington Waterproof Restoration laminate from the Anthology collection? Our favourite colour is Parchment...it looks so authentic and is absolutely gorgeous! Just wondering if it might truly be suitable for kitchens and bathrooms, as well as entrances. I love the look of having the same, consistent flooring throughout a home. Is it truly waterproof if you silicone the expansion gap? Do you know how truly scratch resistant it is? Does it have any issues with chipping on the edges, etc. if a plate is dropped on it? Please tell me what your opinion and experience is of this particular flooring. Thanks a bunch! :-)
Thanks for the comment. I will check into it for you and let you know!
When starting the job if you measure the total floor you can split the first and last piece so that you don’t have a slender strip to squeeze in at the end.
Thanks for the tip
Also, great ninja hop 😂
What are you using to cut the last row's pieces lengthwise? We don't have a table saw, just a jigsaw, and we're wondering if there's a good way to make a long square cut with those... We tried a utility knife too and got nowhere... Is there a better way to cut them?
Sure. When I first started installing floors I was a Framer with mad circular saw skills. I couldn't afford a table saw. So I got pretty good at cutting the laminate with a circular saw. Even today On small jobs when I pulled the carpet out I take it peace and throw it outside on the ground and then I just throw the laminate on top of that and set the depth on my saw so it doesn't go too deep and then I just cut on the ground. The saw goes through no problem and the carpet underneath get lightly scored. It make trips super fast. Make sure To wear safety glasses cause that laminate can fly in your eyes and it is not a good time. Also you can do cuts around corners that have long rips and angles just use a jigsaw to finish off small parts I hope that helps thanks for the question
Great video! We just bought pergo outlast and a bunch of our boards have a white paint fingerprint on them and some have bubbles in the flooring. Have you ever seen this? I'm worried that the white paint ones were marked as being imperfect but we're accidentally mixed in with our boxes. We bought a pallet. Thanks so much for any insight!
I have seen bubbles in my floor before. And I may have even seen white stuff. Try some acetone on the white prints and maybe it will come off. But as for the bubbles I usually just cut around them and use the sides that don't have bubbles for starters and finishers. Hope that helps thanks for the question
You can measure out the room first thing to make sure the end piece is not tiny and super hard to install. I try to make first row near equal to the end piece by cutting the first board in a certain width.
Thanks for a great tutorial. I’m looking to run the same pergo upstairs in my house. It’s a hallway with 4 bedrooms. Do you recommend breaking it up or doing it all as one big floor? About 800 sqft total.
If it were me , I would do it all as one big floor. Just be sure to leave a sufficient expansion gap around the door jambs and you should be good to go. Also make sure the temperature stays pretty close between rooms. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I don't know if you will see this or not but your video was really helpful. We're currently installing Pergo outlast floors, but having a specific issue we can't seem to find a solution to. The first row won't stay locked in. The rest of the rows are fine, locked, beautiful. BUT the first row just will not stay locked in place. Do you have any tips that might help?
If you are able to move them. I would make sure the cracks are all clean. Squirt some wood glue in the crack. Squeeze back together and then tape it until it dries. Wood glues water base so you can wipe with a damp paper towel to clean up. If you have a hard time closing gaps you may have to pull some 1/4 round and pry boards closed from one end. Hope that helps. Fill free to ask any more questions. It's what I'm here for. Thanks for the question
Thank you
No problem. Thanks for the comment
GREAT VIDEO! QUESTION: ALthough it would cause more work, couldn't you remove the wooden base trim from the last edge in the room, lay the last piece, and re-install the base trim?
That is definitely another option. But like you said it would cause a little more work. But the end result ight make it worth it.
Really wish I found this before I started my Pergo project. The Home Depot Pergo video is garbage compared to this. So many great tips
Well, thank you, Dominic. I'm glad you found some value in it
The carpet removal technique was awesome! Thanks for the informative video! Just wondering, what factors helped you decide to not use the Pergo underpayment and/or does this style already come with an attached underlayment? How have the floors held up since install, have you noticed any pieces coming unlocked or “spongy soft” when you walk in certain areas? Sorry for all the questions, we recently had some LVP (with underlayment attached) put down improperly in our home 3 weeks ago, some boards are already starting to unlock in the middle of the room and along some of the edges near the closets. We’re in the process of working to replace them now and my husband is nervous about going with LVP again 😟
Welll I am an installer for Home Depot as well as my own jobs. They provide me a lot of work so I am able to install many brands, styles, Materials, thickness, ect. So I can't tell you about this particular job as it's a customers. But I have been installing pergo outlast for about 5 years and I have NEVER had a call back do to product defects. And I have been back to repeat customers and if taken care of it looked just as good as the day installed, years later. Btw the pad is attache to the bottom on most pergo laminateflooring. You will need to use a moisture barrier if you are going on top of concrete. As far as lvp. If you have the kind that just presses down it may not be locked in all the way. Or there is a considerable dip that is allowing one side to go down when stepped on. Or the tab that locks them in has broke. If it's not locked in. You can try taking a rubber mallet and striking the plank that lays on top about 3 inches from the end at angle coming down to try to move it into the proper locking spot sometimes we think they are tight together and it's that little bump that locks it in. FyI they do make lvp that's waterproof and locks in like laminate so you don't have to worry about it coming loose. Let me know if your ever interested. Sorry for the long answer. Hope that helped
@@YOUFLOOR Thank you for the details and suggestions for the rubber mallet! That was very helpful. I'm glad a lot of customers have loved their Pergo LVP flooring, I've heard good things about it.
Great vid! What did you use to cut the flooring to fit up against the wall and around the corner? The skinny piece… Thanks!
I mostly use my table saw or a jig saw. Thanks for the question
I didn’t look through comments so I apologize in advance if you’ve already answered this question. I’m doing a floor in my enclosed patio with a cement floor. The room is waterproof. What do I need to do to the cement floor before I start? Thanks!
1st I would take a straight edge and check for dips and humps. I would address those 1st. Then If you are installing laminate then you will need to put a plastic vapor barrier minimum 3mil. If you are doing lvp you can go strait on the concrete also as long the pad is attached to the bottom Such as lifeproof
I love this video, I’m dry ocd, and need the h pattern.I have people telling that will cause buckling.. does the pattern make a integral difference? Or is it all based on looks and preference with taste?
I;m no expert but I read that the staggering of the panels increases the integrity of the whole floor because the H pattern causes more weaknesses in spots. Remember this is a floating floor so the whole
thing has to stay together and move as one solid piece. You can satisfy your OCD like I did by designing the whole floor on paper including every cut and the length of every starting piece for your whole house. Trust me it will satisfy your OCD. In fact you may find out you don't really have OCD when you try to stick with it. Haha.
🤣🤣🤣🤣Now you sound like mr. Rodriguez from @buildthisfixthat. He does that too. Its great!
Thank you. I thought I replied to this already. I would have said the same thing. Perfect explanation
Can you lay Pergo Outlast parallel to joint with a 3/4 plywood subfloor? Great video BTW!
All floating floors can be lay parallel or perpendicular . When you nailing or attaching a floor to the subfloor it it better to go perpendicular so that any dips can be slightly hidden from spanning joist to joist. Going parallel will make the wood follow the curves and be real noticable on humps and dips. Because the floor is floating it basically become one big sheet to cover the floor so it wont show dips. However if they are to bad will will have a lot of bounce. Best to level it out first. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
The scribing method for last row is great idea.
question 1: You dont show it, but what are using to rip those long stretches. Table saw? Circular saw? jigsaw with a fence/guide?
question 2: outlast+ has the padding attached. I've been reading more about the pergo floormate to help give the floor a more natural sound. Have you used it much, does putting that down first introduce any any technique changes to putting the outlast+ down after?
fwiw I'm installing initially in a bathroom (thus I need the silicone filled gaps, and I need to fit the corner shower, and around the toilet flange. later I have more simple square rooms
thanks
Do you recall the color of this flooring? It’s the perfect gray!!! This video helped a lot, I was afraid to buy pergo because the reviews said it was a nightmare to put together. It looks similar to the traffic master I did years back with a couple tweaks. Also, I plan to remove my baseboards for install, are the spacers & foam still needed since it won’t be up against the baseboard?
Okay lots of great questions. 1st I believe the color is called vintage pewter. I've included a link. Also on that page s roll down and take a look at the home decorators collection. Its lighter in color but very diy friendly. Now with the perimeter seal you dont even neccesarily need the foam rope for 1/4 installation if you are meticulous about your cuts. See typically floating floors will need a quarter of an inch for expansion all the way around. You're goal is to seal off any chance of liquid getting to the underside of your flooring. If your cut are all almost perfectto the wall you should be able to silicone the edge of the floor and a small bead behind the base board. And even with the baseboard method only (no 1/4 round) the liquid would have to be 4 inches deep to climb over the baseboard. Some time the end boards can be cut a little shorter that others. This doesn't leave much room for the silicone. So instead of filling the crack up. The foam will take up the space and you will only use what you need. Hope I answered your question. In summary, no you dont NEED the rope foam but I would grab a package just for those bigger gaps. Place silicone on edge creating a barrier. Set your baseboard in. And clean up with 100% acetone or denatured alcohol. Good luck. Thanks for the questionwww.homedepot.com/p/Pergo-Outlast-7-48-in-W-Vintage-Pewter-Oak-Waterproof-Laminate-Wood-Flooring-19-63-sq-ft-case-LF000848/206860377?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D23-Multi-PERGO-NA-Feed-SMART-2081362-WF-MK461823323_9016229526_FY21_2328_PERGO_OUTLAST&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D23-Multi-PERGO-NA-Feed-SMART-2081362-WF-MK461823323_9016229526_FY21_2328_PERGO_OUTLAST-71700000085764827-58700007295799681-92700065505447088&gclid=Cj0KCQiAweaNBhDEARIsAJ5hwbeDHeqoi8MqOzcVRgicvCOPPcl4tvHCkIHONkc_qA5ALXG33aS9HvEaAtL8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I plan to install this in a lake cottage bedroom. The bedroom is on a slab and the house is not heated in the winter nor a/c in the summer. It’s in MI so weather can be both extremes. Any tips for a good install?
Just make sure you leave good expansion gaps. It's pretty standard laminate, but I will say this... This year was a pretty rough winter. Sometimes the extreme temperature change can cause laminate to separate it its not free to expand. We had to go back to two jobs this winter to close up gaps and we actually left expansion gaps. I'm telling you this because both jobs were pergo outlast. We glued them after closing sing them up. But it could happen again if the weather gets extreme change in temperature. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
Do you ever have issues with chipping edges when cutting with a circular or jig saw using standard wood blades? Looks like Diablo makes a “Pergo blade” but is it really necessary?
Not so much a circular saw as the jig saw. But yeah I know what you're talking about. Usually any end I'm cutting n g gets covered. Now if I have a new blade. My table saw does a lot of work and usually no chipping out as it cut from the bottom. Hope that helps. I'll have to check out that blade. Thanks for the comment
Pergo should be paying you for this.
Appreciate it! Thanks for the view and the comment.
Omg finally a video that helps.
can i run it under the baseboard and silicone that? I am not a fan of the quarter round
@pondereef you can pull the baseboard and then install your floor. Once floor is installed you can silicone under the baseboard before you reinstall it. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
You can lay the pergo floor first and then do your base mouldings on top of it correct?
That is correct. If you don't have baseboard installed already, you can install the flooring 1st and then set the baseboard on top. And if you have baseboard installed already. You can cut the caulk line and remove it and then reinstall it after the floor is installed. Some people prefer this look. It does look great. 1/4 round was made to cover the 1/4 inch expansion gap if you are installing floating floors and not removing the baseboard. But the expansion gap can be left under the base boards. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Great video no one ever mention the sealing and foam. My baseboards or what ever the quarter round nails too go all the way to the subfloor. Should I remove the baseboards and put them on top the laminate or does it matter really?
@Matt Haze If you are going to have quarter round you can leave them!Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
Where did you get the edge blocks I have the wedges and like you said they slide under or keep falling ..Great video
You can find them at home depot back in the flooring section. Lowes does not have them. Thanks for the question
@YOUFLOOR How often do you need to change the blades on the cutter? Will i need more than one blade for a 10'x20' room?
No sir. I have installed at least 50 floors with the same blade. Should come with a honing stone. If not you can order one but I use it to sharpen the blade about every 3 or 4 installs. Hope that helps. Good question
Could you help clarify whether it's necessary to leave the expansion space between the laminate and the baseboard? In the instruction Pergo mentioned about 3/8" minimum expansion space to the wall..but seems like you didn't measure that space? (Around minute 13) thank you..
@Lynn Tiasa you do need to leave room for expansion. On this particular job it looks like the baseboard is a little high so if I did get close to baseboard, when the floor expands it would go under the baseboard.
Also, when using a piece of flooring to scribe the last row, the tongue of the flooring makes the expansion gap bigger than it should be, sometimes the gap can be too big. Hope that helps!
So, if you pull off the baseboards (like I've done before), I'm assuming that you can still used the foam roll and sealant as shown, and the warranty will be preserved the same as using the method shown with quarter-rounds in this video?
That is correct your baseboard acts as the 1/4 round in that situation. Thanks for the question
Cool vid man do you guys caulk the quarter rd on top and bottom or just top
If it's white 1/4 round on white baseboard we will caulk only the top. Thanks for the question
Is there a major difference with silicon 1 vs 2 when using with laminate floor?
You're a good teacher. I am just having trouble knowing how to get started because I have a very wonky outside wall that is bowed in the center and slightly bowed in the other direction in the corner. I found that out after lining up the first row of planks. I'll have to scribe it just like you did your last row, but I'm struggling to know how to get the row straight with the room, so that the rest of the floor will also look straight. The opposite wall isn't exactly straight either and has a protruding closet, so can't start there either. Ugh.
Well if it were me I would put 2 whole rows together end to end the bump both ends off the wall the same distance. 1/4 inch for example If the wall is bowed out. Then you can use the last row trick to fill in the middle. But if the wall is bowed in put your 1/4 inch spacers in the middle. The end may have 3/4 gap but you would do the last row trick to do the last row trick to fill in the ends. Also once you get the 1st two rows in and situated you can pull a tape measure to the opposite wall and get both ends close as possible to matching . Splitting the difference. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Makes sense. I appreciate the advice! You've helped me greatly along the way throughout my project.
Very good video details for laminate installation. How much labor you do for one room 200 square foot?
The price a depends on the factors of the job. Such as am I pulling and hauling off the old flooring( different floors have different prices. Cost more to tear out tile as opposed to carpet or laminate. Then are we removing base boards and reinstalling or just running 1/4 round. Generally if all those are part of the job we offer an all inclusive price of 3.00 a sq ft up to 3.75 for tile tear out and maybe more if subfloor repair is required. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Great video! Do you think a plastic vapor barrier would be required for concrete with Pergo Outlast?
I'm pretty positive you will want
to put a vapor barrier if you are installing on concrete. Thanks for the question
Hey man how would you connect a room that was carpeted with an existing laminate floor with matching laminate, without a transition? The connection point is at an angle as well.
The only way to really doe it right is to put the flooring back until you can stair step It back where it start going g through the door. I have a video on matching up flooring going into another room but it involves a transition. So pulling back is the only way. If you have laminate like pergo , sometimes you can weeve the new boards in. But if it's a drop and lock , that's almost impossible. It really doesn't take long to pull the 1/4 round and a few rows to get the new stuff in. Hope that helps
back with more specific question, hoping for advice
also About to install some pergo outlast+ in a bathroom. I watched numerous vidoes about install around toilet flange. Seems like you only need standard expansion gap around the flange. Do you agree? pergo outlast says to use 100% silicone in the areas of the expansion gaps in rooms with water. Do you have Ideas about if silicon would also should go next to the plank in the gap around the flange?
Absolutely want to seal around the flange. But more importantly is to make sure the flange is sitting above the finished floor. Not level with floor. If you are going around a flange instead of under it. Then you may need to add a short flange extention. I have had toilets leak into the subfloor when the flange is too low. If there is any play in the flange and you can slide the flooring under it,I would suggest that. Your probably worried about expansion. Believe me I have been doing it this way for years and have never had any issues. Hope that helps. Feel free to ask any other questions. Have a great day
Tip for last row. Cut first row after measuring the room and splitting the difference like instructions state. Then you don’t end up with a sliver
Directions what are those. J/k I get this a lot. In this case ther were 2 walls to choose from. How do you deal with this situation. Would lo e to hear so.e feedback. This doesn't always happen but when it does , this is how I deal with it. Thanks for the comment
That’s only if you’re installing at your own home 😂
Do you need the pergo gold underlayment ? Is it necessary?
If you are installing laminate. And it has the white foam on the bottom. You do not need to put an underlayment. How ever. If you are installing on concrete, you will need to put a moisture barrier down 1st( big roll of 6 mil pastic). And if your laminate does not have the foam on the bottom then you will need an underlayment. Lowes pergo products from what I remember doesn't have the pad attached. If you don't have the pad attached and you are on concrete you can buy the red 2 in 1 foam underlayment from home depot. With this no plastic is needed. The pergo gold is not necessary. Plus it is a little pricey. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Hi. Thank you for all the videos. They are super helpful! I do have two questions. Is there a difference between GE white and clear 100% silicone? Also, leaving the expansion gap along a shower or tub, is there away to attach a quarter round without nailing it? Obviously, I cannot nail it to the tub or laminate. Do you think using the same silicone would hold it in place? Thanks
The silicone will hold it, ⁸but you will need something to hold it while it dries. I usually squirt I all the way across with small little gaps I use hot glue on the gaps. This will hold the 1/4 round while the silicone dries. I also use white silicone on top crack. This will add more holding power and make it Waterproof. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR thank you!
I am trying to figure out what tool to use to cut the tiles. I have a Pergo 10mm waterproof laminate. The material is almost like a hard clay, I can't figure it out. I see in this video you used, at least partially, a cutter and not a saw. What saw should I use?
Well if you don't have a cutter I would just use a miter saw or a speed square and a circular saw. You can also use a jig saw. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
At 11:42 in the video I see the 3rd(?) row has about a 3" piece needed to finish it. Is it wise to have such a small piece?
Busted! Yeah not my favorite situation. It doesn't affect it structurally, but it is not exactly Esthetically pleasing to the eye. We never start with a plank smaller than 6 inches. And when we get to the end and have a small piece. It's then that we create a dead zone. I made a video about it, but it didn't get a lot of love. So if you want to avoid this issue altogether, You must create the dead zone 1st. There's a faster way to get there, but I wanted to simplify the explanation with a visual. If interested I left a link for that video. Great question. Thanks for the veiw.ruclips.net/video/rkjpa7In4nc/видео.html
What color of Pergo Outlast is this?
What tool do you use to cut the oddball laminate shapes to accommodate the stairs etc?
I usually use my table saw and a jig saw on laminate. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Good vid, you have good skill,....I would like to see you remove base boards , and reinstall, for a nice finish.
@Smiley Camel Maybe next time!
Having a hard time finding the 3/8 inch foam roll at Lowe’s or Home Depot. I live in AK, so options are limited. Can you share a link or details that can help me search for this product online?
Should be in the caulk section but here is a link. Thanks for the question. www.homedepot.com/s/caulk%20saver?searchtype=text&NCNI-5
amazon.
They are the EVERYTHING STORE
Excellent video. I bought some used Pergo & am going in the morning (15Oct22) to remove it. Praying that it comes up easy. It’s not glued or nailed. Any tips for pulling it up w/o damage? Thanks!!
Well if there is 1/4 round, start by pulling that. Generally there is a 1/4 inch gap under that and that will help with pulling it out on the sides. If there is only baseboard on top of the flooring, you may have to pull the baseboard. If it's in some ones house and they don't want you to remove the baseboard then you can cut down the side with a oscillating tool or a Sawzall. A circular saw set at the depth of the laminate would be faster but really dusty. Once you figure out a what side the floor started go to the finish wall and pull the 1st row. Keep in mind the 1st board or even the last row could be damaged but once it out its easy peasy. Have some one help you pull the whole row out of the locking system by tipping it up and pulling it out. Then do the same end to end tip it up at around a 30° angle and it should slip right out as you pull. This will help you keep the locking system in tack. If you do damage a small piece of the locking system but most of it is there just put a drop of wood glue In. That spot during the new installation. I know that was long but I hope it makes sense. Great question. And an excellent idea for a video.
Wow! Thanks for the help! The oscillating saw will be a great tool to have on standby. I wish I could take my entire tool arsenal w/ me.
I’m driving from Raleigh to (near) Pinehurst.
Thanks again brother
I noticed you didn’t use an underlayment. The pre installed backing pad is good enough for sound dampening? Would you recommend a moisture barrier if installing on a concrete slab or does the backing act as one as well?
Oh . For sure you need a moisure barrier if installing on concrete. On wood, it is not needed and also can possibly trap moisturez between the subfloor and plastic, which can cause mold. But that is not the case on concrete. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR that helps a lot. Thank you. Great video. I liked and subscribed!!
Awesome thanks!
Im curious about the need for an underlayment (floormate) as well.
Look at the specifications (specs) on your flooring. It should tell you if you need it or not
So is it a 1/4 in or 3/8 pergo directions say 3/8 on pergo outlast plus
Always go with what the directions say.
Try the McDavid knee pads from Amazon, saves your knees
When making your scrap piece for marking your cut line on the last piece, do you cut off the groove or the tongue? Or does it make any difference?
Does it make a big difference in the direction of the install. I started a project in a bedroom and now I'm adding more to a family room but it is causing me to start with the taller edge at the beginning and I'm having a hard time getting it to set down on the floor? I've watched your video twice. I lock in the left side and tilt up a little and push forward but it wants to sit off the floor at an angle after that. I've resort to using boxes to keep it flat....My first install wasn't half this hard but I started with the short side again the wall.
Now I have ran into thit's been my experience. That with purgo, it will sit up at a slide angle after it is fully locked in. Check and see if that's the case, if so carry on, thanks for the question, see you on the next one.
Do you have the link to the silicone you Like to use for this flooring?
@Joanna Chavez
Silicone
amzn.to/3HURueJ
Thanks for the question!
Normajean
Maybe I missed it but what are the spacers for????
The spacers are for keeping the flooring a quarter of an inch off the wall for expansion. Thanks for the question
Best hack i have for you is to remove the base molding [gently] run the edge at 1/4" from the wall, then once its in// rest the base molding on top of the flooring, ease back into the wall and re-nail it. it is a bit more work before and after but the finished product is great and it minimizes the edge game struggle in exchange for the basemolding work// up to you if its worth it or not- have a nice day
A lot of peeps do it that way. Some folk prefer 1/4 round some people absolutely hate it. Thanks for the tip. See ya on the next one
Fantastic video.
Are you by chance related to Tom Barton of Wall Builders?
Glad you enjoyed it! I am not related to Tom. Thanks for the comment.
Great video - question that I have not seen asked here. How do you choose which direction to put the flooring down? I have read parallel with the longest wall, parallel to the windows with the most light, or running the length from the main entry way?
We usually let the customer pick, but we do give them all of the points you mentioned. Find the biggest light source and run across joist, etc. But I'd I'm choosing, I make it easy on me. If there is a hallway involved, I go the direction of long ways through the hall. Sideways tend to look plankish like a board walk. If no hallway, I usually start against the longest wall to keep down on the getting up and cutting ends so often. Hop that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR great thank you, makes a lot of sense to go with the hallway.
Good luck buddy let me know how it goes
I am doing my whole 2nd floor starting in my master bedroom. Would you recommend starting in a closet and working my way out or find the middle of the room and start there?
If it were me, I would find the straightest wall to start on. If you are installing Pergo Outlast, it is quite easy to install backwards. Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work through your project. Tks for the question.
This video has helped me so much. My back is in agony but turned out well 😅 Did to remove the tongue on the edge pieces like it says in the pergo instructions? Or doesn't that matter?
If I am starting with a full plank I do not cut the tongue off. If anyone could tell me the point in doing this, maybe I would consider it but in my opinion it’s just a time waister. If I need to center the planks to the room I may have to cut some of the plank so it will be the correct size, but that has nothing to do with the tongue. Thanks for the question!
@@YOUFLOOR Yeah I found it weird too like even with expansion it's not gonna effect it. I did it anyway so nice to know was a waste of time for when I do the bigger room. Your videos are amazing mate.
Glad I could help! Let me know if you have any other questions!
we're replacing carpet with pergo in a closet. the oak trim is low enough the pergo won't slide under the trim, i assume i should pull the trim up and reinstall it about 1/8 or so higher so the pergo can slip / expand under the oak trim?
You have 2 choices. You can either pull the baseboard and install your floor, then put it back. And it doesn't need to have a gap under the trim. It will still expand and contract with the trim straight on the floor. 2nd choice is to leave the baseboard. Then, when you install flooring, you can leave a small gap around the perimeter for expansion. Then you can install 1/4 round like I did in the video. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
First of all, I'm not a professional carpenter or floor installer. However, I've just finished installing around 800 feet of Pergo (have about 100 more to go plus two closets). For the last row, I've clicked the narrow board in and used a pull bar and tapping block just as I did on the rest of the floor. When you allow for expansion--and on new construction without baseboards---the pull bar worked well. A bought a tapping block. I found that using a piece of flooring, the flooring "tapping block" smashed quickly and left a mess.
I did not see you measure the room and divide the width of the room by the width of the board. I was hoping to see that. I'm starting a new room and wanted to do it correctly, instead the way I did the rest---fitting in a narrow board along the last wall. I'm very poor at math. My plan is to just cut the boards down the center.
Yeah. I tell you what. A guy I watch does great videos and he does a great job of explaining that divided the room thing. He does it on his computer and it comes out perfect. I usually use a calculator when I'm in a square room and in rooms with multiple adjacent walls or multiple rooms I go with it. But his program allows him to move the floor around for perfect trips on every wall. Check him out. His channel is
RUclips/build this fix that. Thanks again. Hope that helps
No moisture barrier needed? Is it recommended if using this on bare concrete?
Any kind of laminate will require a plastic vapor barrier when installing on concrete. It is not necessary with lvp. And you would not want to use a plastic vapor barrier on wood subfloor as that can trap moisture and cause mold. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question