Lovely. I have a 2015 Ram Promaster 1500 and the E brake is engaged and will not disengage. Thankful for this YT! If I can use penetrating grease to at least loosen it with a hammer smack, I'll take it up to our friendly folks that usually work on the vehicles. Towing it there is a possibility of course.
Had the same issue, but caught mine just before it started to smoke. I kept smelling that hot brake smell while on the highway. Stopped at a station and literally burned my hand on the rim. Jogged the lever and then the brake fully locked up and could not move the van anywhere. Used a prybar to release the rear cables. That was some predatory repair cost at $2300 for rear brakes? Wow. Thank you for the vid. This will help me do the same procedure.
yes, I had same problem with my 2014. Hard plastic washer between nut and shaft works wonders. road salt is the culprit along with poor design. anti seize grease is a must. next time i maintain it i will put a bronze collar over the shaft to isolate the metal to metal rust contact. Thanks for the great vid.
Ouch. These van brakes are easy to work on and the parts are cheap. I will be helping a friend with his parking brake issues tomorrow. I will be glad I watched this. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I have the same problem. Looks simple to repair. I’ll spray on penetrating fluid till the parts are free and then spray on grease. Disassembly is probably not necessary and it’s freezing outside.
Thanks a lot my friend for posting it Save me a ton of money, I could've fixed my Ram Promaster emergency issues without before looking at this video.I was just 🙏🙏🙏👍
I just wanted to say Thank you for sharing this video.. I have a 2017 bought new and brake not worked for some time now. I followed video and resolved same issue. Works like a charm now
Thank you for this! Ours is in the shop for the third time over brake issues that I believe may have started right here. Fortunately it's still under warranty and there is a dealer three miles from here. I sent them a link to this.
Great video which every Promaster owner should watch. I noticed this issue on mine yrs, ago and now will tackle the rear brakes. Thank you. Not much cussin' for all that fussin'.
Basic recommendation for next time, use penetrating oil. It makes disassembling stuff like this so much easier. Back in the old days, before planned obsolescence, we used to have zerk fittings on everything including tie rod ends, ball joints, drive shafts, etc. and with each oil change, you would grease everything. Not anymore. Also, this is a fleet vehicle that is only intended to last 5 years, enough for a company to fully depreciates and replace the vehicle. Fleet vehicles are built to the lowest quality standards and as cheap as possible. I've worked any many different brands of fleet vehicles over the years and they're all shit. It just depends on what flavor of shit you can tolerate. Unfortunately, for us, we need to be our own expert mechanic to keep these things on the road. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the comments yes I agree penetrating oil is the best way to remove rusty parts. I have restored antique vehicles in the past and fully aware of penetrating oil and even using a torch to remove rusty parts however for this video purposes I wanted to be able to prove that the factory did not put grease in those areas if I was to spray penetrating oil that would’ve skewed my hypothesis.
Thanks for the tip. It would be a lot easier taking the 2 bolts out of the mounting plate, and deal with it on a bench, instead of laying on your back under the van, but you did get it done, and cheers to you for the DIY!
Hi Just seen your post.. would have done exactly the same👍. I would have used my wiper arm puller after using penetrating oil 😎. Great minds and all that😁
Thanks for the comments yes I agree penetrating oil is the best way to remove rusty parts. I have restored antique vehicles in the past and fully aware of penetrating oil and even using a torch to remove rusty parts however for this video purposes I wanted to be able to prove that the factory did not put grease in those areas if I was to spray penetrating oil that would’ve skewed my hypothesis.
I work for the post office doing vehicle operations in Wisconsin. We have our own modification where we drill and tap a grease fitting into the pivot and add it to the periodic maintenance schedule. Any ProMaster that doesn't have it yet always has that pivot seas up and I have to get under there with penetrating oil and a sledgehammer to free up stuck trucks out on the routes.
thank you for this video! i noticed my mpg dropping randomly recently. i kept thinking stupid things like maybe it was a head wind, or uphill etc. then the other day going through a drive through i heard a squeaking noise. i thought it was my brakes dragging. then today i noticed it much louder (probably because the pads are worn) when i got home, the back brakes were hot .. very hot.
Great thing to highlight. I would of removed the linkage itself looks like 2 possibly 3 bolts. Free’d it up with penetrating spray. A cheap windscreen arm puller may have made the job easier. Only just seen this video😎. Always difficult working upside down on your back..
My was jamming occassionally then one of the shoes came apart and destroyed the abs sensor which is part of the stubb axle so I hade replace that as well. A real pain due to a poor design. cost about $375 total and many hours. Love the van but kind of rediculus to have such a poor design on an item I rarely use.
8 hours labor for 2 hours work. JFK people, learn how to fix your own shit. Sorry if this is rude, but I can't stand people whining about the result of their own cluelessness. P.S. parking brake linkage is a part of routine maintenance.
Lovely. I have a 2015 Ram Promaster 1500 and the E brake is engaged and will not disengage. Thankful for this YT! If I can use penetrating grease to at least loosen it with a hammer smack, I'll take it up to our friendly folks that usually work on the vehicles. Towing it there is a possibility of course.
Thanks for this demonstration, our pivot was rusted on so badly I thought it just didn't come off. Your video showed me it was possible!
Thanks so much for posting this. I just checked mine - it was dry as a bone. I cleaned and greased it. An ounce of prevention for sure.
Had the same issue, but caught mine just before it started to smoke. I kept smelling that hot brake smell while on the highway. Stopped at a station and literally burned my hand on the rim. Jogged the lever and then the brake fully locked up and could not move the van anywhere. Used a prybar to release the rear cables. That was some predatory repair cost at $2300 for rear brakes? Wow. Thank you for the vid. This will help me do the same procedure.
I just checked mine. It was dry as a bone. I cleaned it and greased it. Thanks so much for posting this.
You just saved me a fortune. I did your fix in 30 minutes and works perfectly. Thanks!!
yes, I had same problem with my 2014. Hard plastic washer between nut and shaft works wonders. road salt is the culprit along with poor design. anti seize grease is a must. next time i maintain it i will put a bronze collar over the shaft to isolate the metal to metal rust contact.
Thanks for the great vid.
Ouch. These van brakes are easy to work on and the parts are cheap. I will be helping a friend with his parking brake issues tomorrow. I will be glad I watched this. Thanks.
The whole van is cheap.....cheaply made...
Is there an error displayed?
My cab- chassis 2023 ProMaster 3500 has had this problem 3x's in 18 months....not even 45.000 miles on it.
Thanks for the video. I have the same problem. Looks simple to repair. I’ll spray on penetrating fluid till the parts are free and then spray on grease. Disassembly is probably not necessary and it’s freezing outside.
Thanks a lot my friend for posting it Save me a ton of money, I could've fixed my Ram Promaster emergency issues without before looking at this video.I was just 🙏🙏🙏👍
I just wanted to say Thank you for sharing this video.. I have a 2017 bought new and brake not worked for some time now. I followed video and resolved same issue. Works like a charm now
Thank you for this! Ours is in the shop for the third time over brake issues that I believe may have started right here. Fortunately it's still under warranty and there is a dealer three miles from here. I sent them a link to this.
Great video which every Promaster owner should watch. I noticed this issue on mine yrs, ago and now will tackle the rear brakes. Thank you. Not much cussin' for all that fussin'.
Basic recommendation for next time, use penetrating oil. It makes disassembling stuff like this so much easier. Back in the old days, before planned obsolescence, we used to have zerk fittings on everything including tie rod ends, ball joints, drive shafts, etc. and with each oil change, you would grease everything. Not anymore. Also, this is a fleet vehicle that is only intended to last 5 years, enough for a company to fully depreciates and replace the vehicle. Fleet vehicles are built to the lowest quality standards and as cheap as possible. I've worked any many different brands of fleet vehicles over the years and they're all shit. It just depends on what flavor of shit you can tolerate. Unfortunately, for us, we need to be our own expert mechanic to keep these things on the road. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the comments yes I agree penetrating oil is the best way to remove rusty parts. I have restored antique vehicles in the past and fully aware of penetrating oil and even using a torch to remove rusty parts however for this video purposes I wanted to be able to prove that the factory did not put grease in those areas if I was to spray penetrating oil that would’ve skewed my hypothesis.
Thanks for the tip. It would be a lot easier taking the 2 bolts out of the mounting plate, and deal with it on a bench, instead of laying on your back under the van, but you did get it done, and cheers to you for the DIY!
Hi
Just seen your post.. would have done exactly the same👍. I would have used my wiper arm puller after using penetrating oil 😎. Great minds and all that😁
Thanks for the comments yes I agree penetrating oil is the best way to remove rusty parts. I have restored antique vehicles in the past and fully aware of penetrating oil and even using a torch to remove rusty parts however for this video purposes I wanted to be able to prove that the factory did not put grease in those areas if I was to spray penetrating oil that would’ve skewed my hypothesis.
Great video. You should make some more. Helped a bunch of people and save tons of money.
καλησπέρα φίλε εύχομαι να είναι αυτό που κολλάει τις ντίζες αύριο κυριακή πρώτα ο θεός θα το επιχειρήσω να σαι καλά ευχαριστούμε πολύ
I work for the post office doing vehicle operations in Wisconsin. We have our own modification where we drill and tap a grease fitting into the pivot and add it to the periodic maintenance schedule. Any ProMaster that doesn't have it yet always has that pivot seas up and I have to get under there with penetrating oil and a sledgehammer to free up stuck trucks out on the routes.
Glad that works, It's what I will have to do. Sledgehammah! 🎶
thank you for this video! i noticed my mpg dropping randomly recently. i kept thinking stupid things like maybe it was a head wind, or uphill etc. then the other day going through a drive through i heard a squeaking noise. i thought it was my brakes dragging. then today i noticed it much louder (probably because the pads are worn) when i got home, the back brakes were hot .. very hot.
Thank you for this! I'm going to go check mine right now! My mixed is 13.8 and highway around 17.
Great thing to highlight. I would of removed the linkage itself looks like 2 possibly 3 bolts. Free’d it up with penetrating spray. A cheap windscreen arm puller may have made the job easier. Only just seen this video😎. Always difficult working upside down on your back..
I did the same repair to my promaster. The rust still comes back after a winter season. I just refuse to use the park brake now.
Very well put together info. Thanks for the help
I have the same 2016 van same thing happened to it ! Thanks for the tips!
Thank you🎉
My was jamming occassionally then one of the shoes came apart and destroyed the abs sensor which is part of the stubb axle so I hade replace that as well. A real pain due to a poor design. cost about $375 total and many hours. Love the van but kind of rediculus to have such a poor design on an item I rarely use.
Probably get another spring in there to help pull it back.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you.
You have to put penetrating oil on there first.
Ford and Dodge : POJ.
Good but brake not break
Fixed it, thanks not good to misspell the title I would have missed a lot of views.
What a rip off.
8 hours labor for 2 hours work.
JFK people, learn how to fix your own shit.
Sorry if this is rude, but I can't stand people whining about the result of their own cluelessness.
P.S. parking brake linkage is a part of routine maintenance.
Really? I'm glad your doctor doesn't have that viewpoint with you.
Or will you be performing your next surgery.