Just replaced my back tank and it ran for a day and now sitting. Just replaced the distributor, ICM and the ignition coil. So I feel your pain! I didn’t have that sputtering you did after my new tank and pump install. I appreciate the video though as it’s hard to find people that know what they’re doing with these old trucks..
Pull the pumps and make sure they have the check valves most of the cheap ones dont , stick walbro pumps in the pump housings it the valves hold pressure there about $100 each and will last years
@@nothanks81 the one I bought does have a check valve, the one the previous owner put on did not. I just posted another video on replacing the pumps too and trying to figure it out!
Check the basics look at the fuse I remember my dad used to have something like this and you just like take off some of the fuses, make sure it's all okay and put a new one.And it works fine, kncok on wood. Hopefully works for you!
I've always had the best luck sticking with motorcraft parts and keeping things like they were designed. But sometimes changes and modifications are either cheaper, better, or the only option. I have a 7.3 powerstroke diesel, so I can't directly help you, but I would suggest searching the forums. There is a ton of great stuff and people on several forums. I don't know if the gas trucks have them, but in the diesel tanks are these 2 screen filters that clog. Restricting flow. They can be easily cleaned. There are efuel systems and sumps for the diesels that pretty much replace the original fuel system design. I don't know if similar stuff is available for gas. Probably. I can tell you it's way faster and not difficult to just drop the tanks. Removing the bed bolts is usually a real big pain in the ass unless you have one of those induction bolt heater tools or plasma cutter. Some bed bolts can be heated w a torch, but the drivers side front can't unless you drop the tank first and protect the brake and fuel lines as well as the wire harness. If you are definitely going to clean up and paint(mastercoat) the frame, then yep, I would remove the bed. Otherwise, you're probably gonna waste a day getting the bed off with hand tools and an angle grinder. On RUclips, there's a great obs channel called "Garrett's garage." He just did a video on removing one of these beds. Removing a bed isn't rocket science, but his video is by far, the best one that I have found. He has many great videos and is extremely knowledgeable on these trucks. Good luck, my friend
@@KyleReese26 My bed bolts didn't look rusty on the parts you could see. My bed has a spray in bed liner that covers the bolt heads. I had a cap on my truck for 95% of it's life so the bed almost never got wet from the top. I used 6 cans of sea foam deep creep penetrating oil several times a week for 6 weeks on the bed bolts and other bolts for other projects before I tried to remove them. The back 4 bolts had to be heated to be removed and the front 2, we cut the heads and put a heavy duty vice grip on and used a heavy duty impact. The bed bolts aren't actually carriage bolts with a square under the head. They have an oval under the head and they spin very easily instead of holding in place. I'm probably gonna put in the bed bolts from a 99-03 superduty. They have cage nuts that clip to the frame and torx head bolts so you can remove the bed from the top in the future. You might have better luck than I did.
@@KyleReese26 I heard they rent those induction bolt heaters but not where I live. If you like tools they are about $200. Probably worth it to buy at your age. I'm 59 and trying to stop buying tools now. Lol
@@RockyRaccoon3281 those super duty bolts are the exact ones I was looking at if I were to remove the bed. I don’t count on my luck being all the best so may I will just drop tanks. Whatever route prevents me from having the most trouble.
@@cookingwithsanjay yeah I am beginning to lean that direction. At the minimum maybe wait to see if there’s anyone selling new old stock for a reasonable price on eBay.
Have you considered going to a wrecking yard, and looking for another truck like yours, and pulling the fuel pumps out? I guarantee it will be a lot cheaper, and it will be or should be O.E.M. Parts. Instead of paying over $ 900.00… just for parts
I have a 1996 F150 XL, with the 4.9 5 speed, 2 wheel drive long bed. I've invested $12,000. into it, keeping it original. Mine is also in mint condition. I'd rather invest in these old Fords than pay 80 to 110K for a truck that will only last 5-7 years. I'll get another 27 years out of this truck. I'm a master mechanic, including airplanes. Try replacing your "TPS" or your fuel regulator. You may also want to replace the fuel filter along the drivers side frame under the truck. It's under the driver side. Good luck. Nice truck.
@@BruceHarris-r7r that’s awesome. Mine definitely is not mint thought, I bet the 5 speed combo with the 4.9 is great. I’m glad you mentioned the TPS, you’ll be interested to seeing the video I’m about to post!
@@KyleReese26 I do recall many years ago when I was a GSE mechanic at Delta and went through Ford EEC V (before OBDII) training for our ground vehicles, the instructor told us, "When all else fails, replace the throttle position sensor." Glad it got resolved!
The front tank is not that hard to drop. I had to take mine out twice troubleshooting a bad float that had a pinhole in it. None of my fuel line disconnect tools worked so I bought a Lisle 39900 set and it had one that worked. That problem cost me a couple of days as I bought and borrowed disconnect tools that would not work before I got the Lisle set.
I’ve owned 19 of these trucks, Mostly diesel but here’s what I’ve seen when this happens with the gassers. Sometimes it’s fuel pumps, but I’ve hardly ever lost a fuel pump in them. When I have , dropping the tanks seems to be the better route than pulling the bed, but either ways acceptable. But for the love of god, anyone that tells you to cut an ole in the bed to access the pump should be immediately deleted from your life, or RUclips feed. That’s 100% the easiest way to clap out that truck….anyways. What I have seen more commonly are the rubber lines on the fuel pump rot or get pin holes in them which cause pressure to bleed of in the tanks. If you’re in a place that runs a lot of ethanol fuel this will accelerate the process. I’ve seen the selector valve become faulty and one tank will fill the other. Usually this won’t cause the issue you have but it’s not impossible. I’ve seen corroded electrical connectors on the top of the pump get hot and open up so you don’t have sufficient voltage to run the pump. I’ve seen inertia switches become intermittent and cause electrical disruptions. Relays that will stick open or closed, leaks plugged filters too. That truck also has a fuel pressure regulator on it which could be faulty as well. Outside of the fuel system, you’ve got a MAF sensor that can cause you some issues, the TPS sensor (seems to be more faulty than fuel pumps to me), vacuum leaks too. Finally, and this isn’t your problem but it will be eventually if you keep that truck are the ignition modules. I always keep a spare in my glove box (and the tiny wrench to change them). Because those are definitely not a question of if but when it will fail. Hopefully you’ve got it fixed
@@jasonmeredith1580 i actually replaced that, I mentioned it in the video after this one. Unfortunately didn’t fix it but I am about to post a video in a couple days on what I THINK may have the issue solved.
@@kevinkobayashi it does it with a full tank as well. The previous owners mechanic told him that was the issue. In the past it had a similar issue that ended up being the ECU, while searching for that problem they ended up replacing injectors, plugs/wires, IAC, fuel pumps. The ECU fixed it however when they replaced the fuel pumps (that didn’t even need replacing) they put on some 75 dollar ECCP brand and immediately the check valve failed and so both tanks cross feed and the test I did at the rail shows that the fuel pumps are only putting out 8 psi KOEO and then 27 while running.
@@KyleReese26 💯 If I had kept the truck longer I planned on going down to 1 tank. I loved that truck & wish I still had it. I just didn't like A. The dual tanks & B. The fuel injection straight 6 had a whine to it at idle that annoyed me. The '77 I had with the same motor was carbureted & at idle you barely knew the truck was running. Super smooth & quiet. I'm on the hunt for one right now. I prefer late 70's, 2wd w/the 300 straight 6. The best trucks ever built. Your truck looks beautiful & I hope you get it straightened out.
@@milemonster9098 I do love the late 70s f100s. They are great, My favorite are the 67-72. I bought an all original 1 family owned ‘68 ranger short bed that I sold earlier this year. I want another one really bad. I wish I recorded videos on it.
Just replaced my back tank and it ran for a day and now sitting. Just replaced the distributor, ICM and the ignition coil. So I feel your pain! I didn’t have that sputtering you did after my new tank and pump install. I appreciate the video though as it’s hard to find people that know what they’re doing with these old trucks..
@@SK-xr1gs thanks for the comment! Yeah in my most recent video I finally fixed it.
Pull the pumps and make sure they have the check valves most of the cheap ones dont , stick walbro pumps in the pump housings it the valves hold pressure there about $100 each and will last years
@@nothanks81 the one I bought does have a check valve, the one the previous owner put on did not. I just posted another video on replacing the pumps too and trying to figure it out!
Check the basics look at the fuse I remember my dad used to have something like this and you just like take off some of the fuses, make sure it's all okay and put a new one.And it works fine, kncok on wood. Hopefully works for you!
@@josemarquez86 unfortunately I’ve already been through all of them with no luck at all.
I've always had the best luck sticking with motorcraft parts and keeping things like they were designed. But sometimes changes and modifications are either cheaper, better, or the only option. I have a 7.3 powerstroke diesel, so I can't directly help you, but I would suggest searching the forums. There is a ton of great stuff and people on several forums.
I don't know if the gas trucks have them, but in the diesel tanks are these 2 screen filters that clog. Restricting flow. They can be easily cleaned.
There are efuel systems and sumps for the diesels that pretty much replace the original fuel system design. I don't know if similar stuff is available for gas. Probably.
I can tell you it's way faster and not difficult to just drop the tanks. Removing the bed bolts is usually a real big pain in the ass unless you have one of those induction bolt heater tools or plasma cutter. Some bed bolts can be heated w a torch, but the drivers side front can't unless you drop the tank first and protect the brake and fuel lines as well as the wire harness. If you are definitely going to clean up and paint(mastercoat) the frame, then yep, I would remove the bed. Otherwise, you're probably gonna waste a day getting the bed off with hand tools and an angle grinder.
On RUclips, there's a great obs channel called "Garrett's garage." He just did a video on removing one of these beds. Removing a bed isn't rocket science, but his video is by far, the best one that I have found. He has many great videos and is extremely knowledgeable on these trucks.
Good luck, my friend
@@RockyRaccoon3281 thanks for the input!! I definitely will reconsider removing bed. I started having the feeling it may be a big pain.
@@KyleReese26
My bed bolts didn't look rusty on the parts you could see. My bed has a spray in bed liner that covers the bolt heads. I had a cap on my truck for 95% of it's life so the bed almost never got wet from the top. I used 6 cans of sea foam deep creep penetrating oil several times a week for 6 weeks on the bed bolts and other bolts for other projects before I tried to remove them. The back 4 bolts had to be heated to be removed and the front 2, we cut the heads and put a heavy duty vice grip on and used a heavy duty impact. The bed bolts aren't actually carriage bolts with a square under the head. They have an oval under the head and they spin very easily instead of holding in place. I'm probably gonna put in the bed bolts from a 99-03 superduty. They have cage nuts that clip to the frame and torx head bolts so you can remove the bed from the top in the future.
You might have better luck than I did.
@@KyleReese26
I heard they rent those induction bolt heaters but not where I live. If you like tools they are about $200.
Probably worth it to buy at your age. I'm 59 and trying to stop buying tools now. Lol
@@RockyRaccoon3281 those super duty bolts are the exact ones I was looking at if I were to remove the bed. I don’t count on my luck being all the best so may I will just drop tanks. Whatever route prevents me from having the most trouble.
When I had my 96 F150 I just took the hit and got the Motorcraft fuel pumps and never had any problems.
@@cookingwithsanjay yeah I am beginning to lean that direction. At the minimum maybe wait to see if there’s anyone selling new old stock for a reasonable price on eBay.
Have you considered going to a wrecking yard, and looking for another truck like yours, and pulling the fuel pumps out? I guarantee it will be a lot cheaper, and it will be or should be O.E.M. Parts. Instead of paying over $ 900.00… just for parts
@@jamesaustin7147 it was a thought, i did fix it in the new video and it didn’t end up being fuel pump.
I have a 1996 F150 XL, with the 4.9 5 speed, 2 wheel drive long bed. I've invested $12,000. into it, keeping it original. Mine is also in mint condition. I'd rather invest in these old Fords than pay 80 to 110K for a truck that will only last 5-7 years. I'll get another 27 years out of this truck.
I'm a master mechanic, including airplanes.
Try replacing your "TPS" or your fuel regulator. You may also want to replace the fuel filter along the drivers side frame under the truck. It's under the driver side. Good luck. Nice truck.
@@BruceHarris-r7r that’s awesome. Mine definitely is not mint thought, I bet the 5 speed combo with the 4.9 is great. I’m glad you mentioned the TPS, you’ll be interested to seeing the video I’m about to post!
Fuel pressure regulator maybe?
@@thejohnboatfaithfishingand8078 problem was solved in my recent video, tried the FPR but that didn’t fix it
@@KyleReese26 I do recall many years ago when I was a GSE mechanic at Delta and went through Ford EEC V (before OBDII) training for our ground vehicles, the instructor told us, "When all else fails, replace the throttle position sensor." Glad it got resolved!
@ wow good info right there. I appreciate that!!
The front tank is not that hard to drop. I had to take mine out twice troubleshooting a bad float that had a pinhole in it. None of my fuel line disconnect tools worked so I bought a Lisle 39900 set and it had one that worked. That problem cost me a couple of days as I bought and borrowed disconnect tools that would not work before I got the Lisle set.
Yeah I’m not sure how your lisle set compared to the one I got but having the right tool got it off super quick
I’ve owned 19 of these trucks, Mostly diesel but here’s what I’ve seen when this happens with the gassers. Sometimes it’s fuel pumps, but I’ve hardly ever lost a fuel pump in them. When I have , dropping the tanks seems to be the better route than pulling the bed, but either ways acceptable. But for the love of god, anyone that tells you to cut an ole in the bed to access the pump should be immediately deleted from your life, or RUclips feed. That’s 100% the easiest way to clap out that truck….anyways. What I have seen more commonly are the rubber lines on the fuel pump rot or get pin holes in them which cause pressure to bleed of in the tanks. If you’re in a place that runs a lot of ethanol fuel this will accelerate the process. I’ve seen the selector valve become faulty and one tank will fill the other. Usually this won’t cause the issue you have but it’s not impossible. I’ve seen corroded electrical connectors on the top of the pump get hot and open up so you don’t have sufficient voltage to run the pump. I’ve seen inertia switches become intermittent and cause electrical disruptions. Relays that will stick open or closed, leaks plugged filters too. That truck also has a fuel pressure regulator on it which could be faulty as well.
Outside of the fuel system, you’ve got a MAF sensor that can cause you some issues, the TPS sensor (seems to be more faulty than fuel pumps to me), vacuum leaks too.
Finally, and this isn’t your problem but it will be eventually if you keep that truck are the ignition modules. I always keep a spare in my glove box (and the tiny wrench to change them). Because those are definitely not a question of if but when it will fail. Hopefully you’ve got it fixed
Try replacing fuel regulator I have exact same truck and color
@@jasonmeredith1580 i actually replaced that, I mentioned it in the video after this one. Unfortunately didn’t fix it but I am about to post a video in a couple days on what I THINK may have the issue solved.
i dont think its a fuel pump issue whatsoever, or the idle, its keeping the tank full. its telling you are going on empty which is dangerous,
@@kevinkobayashi it does it with a full tank as well. The previous owners mechanic told him that was the issue. In the past it had a similar issue that ended up being the ECU, while searching for that problem they ended up replacing injectors, plugs/wires, IAC, fuel pumps. The ECU fixed it however when they replaced the fuel pumps (that didn’t even need replacing) they put on some 75 dollar ECCP brand and immediately the check valve failed and so both tanks cross feed and the test I did at the rail shows that the fuel pumps are only putting out 8 psi KOEO and then 27 while running.
Buy once, cry once. But I get it, $900 is a lot of money!
I’ll tell you this you really need to use motorcraft oem parts for your truck.
@@billcudd7844 I strongly agree, just hoping to get lucky on eBay with someone selling new old stock.
The dual tanks suck. I had them on an '87 & hated it. I'd look into going down to one tank.
@@milemonster9098 I am very tempted.. I hate the setup too. I really don’t get why ford did it for so long
@@KyleReese26 💯 If I had kept the truck longer I planned on going down to 1 tank. I loved that truck & wish I still had it. I just didn't like A. The dual tanks & B. The fuel injection straight 6 had a whine to it at idle that annoyed me. The '77 I had with the same motor was carbureted & at idle you barely knew the truck was running. Super smooth & quiet. I'm on the hunt for one right now. I prefer late 70's, 2wd w/the 300 straight 6. The best trucks ever built.
Your truck looks beautiful & I hope you get it straightened out.
@@milemonster9098 I do love the late 70s f100s. They are great, My favorite are the 67-72. I bought an all original 1 family owned ‘68 ranger short bed that I sold earlier this year. I want another one really bad. I wish I recorded videos on it.
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;@@milemonster9098
Need more videos
@@nolanyanez coming soon!
An old truck with problems... Imagine that.
@@HarrisonFjord-n3v no complaints here I buy old trucks to work on
Newer trucks have more problems than these trucks ever will
i seriously think its telling you that the you are on empty, always keep your tank full. its telling its telling you are going on empty,
It still does it even with a full tank though