Walmart has the watt meter with the XT-60s already on it for $11. just put it inline at the battery connection. It is like your car's MPG, it will eventually train you on how to efficiently ride your e-bike, Thanks for the long winded video.
they are useful, i did have some problems with one of them on Amazon, out of the many i have bought, So yeah, after first connecting it to a battery and load, I would make sure it doesnt get hot and start smoking, is what happened with a 72v one that i got on amazon
On the other hand you could install a bluetooth bms on your battery (for examble a jbd) and you can monitor you battery condition on your phone and you can even switch to static balancing if neccesary and you can see if there are any problems with your battery. I'll never use one of those black box bms again that don't tell you anything about the battery.
@@schubi128 I’ve had one of these watt meter smoke 💨 up 🆙 when i plugged it in before, Brand new one. Bms is nice but yeah not as easy of an install and i use multiple batteries so they’d all need that. Not ideal way to measure the consumption but if your battery has it that’s a nice feature. Many ppl don’t want to install a bms just to measure
depends on the gearing of the bike, weight, wheel size, voltage of the battery, etc. With 29er MTB wheels, 42T chainring in the 11T cog, using 48V battery, it can get up to ~30MPH with some pedaling. Downhill or with a tailwind, it tops out at ~ 34MPH. This is with the stock bbs02 controller that is 25 amps. It peaks out at about 1250 watts. If you were to change from 48V to 52V battery it usually goes about 2mph faster
Might be a problem with your battery, you could check the voltage at the battery with a multi meter to see what kind of charge its holding. Id be careful with charging the battery , it may have degraded and charging it could be dangerous. Hopefully there is a loose or corroded connection somewhere between the battery and the controller
@@EBikeBuilder_ so I bought a brand new display and so my old display is accurate. I just put the old one on. I am also beyond super careful with the batteries. When ever I charge them I always always always do it when I have the time to sit there for 3 to 4 hrs which I do. It does have all those protections but I do always sit there when it charges. But I have one more question if it's ok to ask also about battery I just bought.
My display has 6 bars. The problem is, like literally yesterday. I got 30km on 1 bar, then rode 30km more and used up the rest of the bars. Also to bike form same maker. One has 13AH battery. The other rated at 12.8AH. On the first bike I can ride up to 110km. On the other bike same route, same riding style, I get 65km and I am at no bars. My cousin has identical bike as #2, and I also bought another, but a 27.5 wheel, same motor, controller and battery. Same result. I cannot break 70km regardless of how I ride. On the original bike. 70km at full assist was normal. 90-110km. on mid assist was the norm, even with wind or hills. Maybe a watt meter will show if the bikes consume at a different rate, under same riding.
Yeah it would be interesting to measure with a watt meter, its possible one battery’s health is not as good as the other. One battery might have better cells or something. The 27.5” wheel could make a difference, in general a larger wheel is harder to get going and requires more power accelerating and maintaining speed, but larger wheels also can achieve a higher top speed with the same motor/rpm. Now in your case where one battery is working twice as good as the other, my guess is its the batteries, or else, if your weight is different than your cousins weight (different rider weights) then that could be why the results are different. BUT, if you are doing the tests with the same rider, i would say there’s a battery problem. The way that you say you get 30km on 1 battery bar, then another 30KM requires the remainder of the battery, that’s potentially related to the discharge curve of lithium batteries, but id say your battery probably has a problem with some cells in a parallel group. The bms might be able to manage it for a while but eventually the cells go too far out of balance and the bms will probably trip and it’ll just shut off
this is just an understanding issue, you not getting what that meter is actually measuring. It's always going to read different under load than not, once you hit the accelerator that bar will dip. You have to make calculations or guesses on the capacity and once you understand how those bars react you can learn to read it. When pulling 1100 watts the bars will deplete faster vs just 500. If I'm showing 3 bars while not under a load, then I know from experience that my bike will only go 10 more miles at 1100 watts, but I also know if I keep it under 500w it will go 20 more miles. If you can't see watts then you can use your speed as a measurement. You can either do the math, or play with it until you understand like I did. A monitor is really only needed if you're running batteries in parallel and have to match the voltage. Otherwise you're just skipping the math part of this and that's no fun.
I have a 48v motor and battery, max out at 1200 watt. However drawing 1200 watt from a full charged battery is a lot different than drawing 1200 watt from a half charged battery. This is why the bar depletes much faster as it gets lower. It's like drinking from a cone shaped cup, 80% of the capacity is at the top end.
A simple gust of wind is enough to make you go from drawing 500 watts to suddenly drawing 1000 watts despite moving at the same speed, same results with going up a hill. Something as simple as bearing grease can change the results of identical batteries on identical bikes causing one to get less miles.
this question is no good, you are missing some piece of information as this is not how things work. Different motors require different levels of power delivery, so try to make a monster motor that expects 3000w move with only 1000w then you will go slow. If the motor is small and only requires 1500w max then it will run fine on 1000w. Additionally batteries have different outputs, so you need to match it to the motor. You can make most bikes roll with just 50 watts but it won't go fast, unless it is a tiny motor with very little weight mounted to it. More weight needs more watts.
I agree that's more elegant and convenient position for it, but it would not be practical in terms of the electrical wiring. these watt meters need to be wired between the battery and motor controller, using the same gauge wire as the battery, so you would have a long run of wire with 2 wires going up to the bars, and 2 wires coming back from the bars. So the wires wouldn't be elegant. Lol unless you internally routed them or something, which I am not a fan of with bikes.
@@EBikeBuilder_ I shrink wrap 2 12 gauge 2 conductor cables and put XT connectors on each end. This way they appear to be 1 thick'ish cable. I think it's more practical than cabling running everywhere.
i just bought one for my engine x and some 12 awg wires xt60''s etc. going to have it on the handlebars and see how power hungry the bike is with my fat ass sat on it😆👍
true. you can get a better display. But displays are like 50 - 100$. And I don't know of any display (other than cycle analyst) that measures the amp hours or watt hours consumed. These watt meters are like 10 or 15$ its a cheap alternative
To clarify, the WATT METER should be wired between the CONTROLLER and the BATTERY! (the bbs02 motor in this video has an internal controller)
Walmart has the watt meter with the XT-60s already on it for $11. just put it inline at the battery connection.
It is like your car's MPG, it will eventually train you on how to efficiently ride your e-bike,
Thanks for the long winded video.
they are useful, i did have some problems with one of them on Amazon, out of the many i have bought, So yeah, after first connecting it to a battery and load, I would make sure it doesnt get hot and start smoking, is what happened with a 72v one that i got on amazon
This is great. Thanks! I have one of these kickin around. It’s like a poor man’s cycle analyst 😂
Exactly lol - poor man’s cycle analyst 😂 i think it was like 2 for $22! 💵 i love these things for
On the other hand you could install a bluetooth bms on your battery (for examble a jbd) and you can monitor you battery condition on your phone and you can even switch to static balancing if neccesary and you can see if there are any problems with your battery. I'll never use one of those black box bms again that don't tell you anything about the battery.
@@schubi128 I’ve had one of these watt meter smoke 💨 up 🆙 when i plugged it in before, Brand new one. Bms is nice but yeah not as easy of an install and i use multiple batteries so they’d all need that. Not ideal way to measure the consumption but if your battery has it that’s a nice feature. Many ppl don’t want to install a bms just to measure
How fast does the bbs02 go?
depends on the gearing of the bike, weight, wheel size, voltage of the battery, etc. With 29er MTB wheels, 42T chainring in the 11T cog, using 48V battery, it can get up to ~30MPH with some pedaling. Downhill or with a tailwind, it tops out at ~ 34MPH. This is with the stock bbs02 controller that is 25 amps. It peaks out at about 1250 watts. If you were to change from 48V to 52V battery it usually goes about 2mph faster
Y dang battery gauge is always shows no bars when I have it fully charged it is lame help please
Might be a problem with your battery, you could check the voltage at the battery with a multi meter to see what kind of charge its holding. Id be careful with charging the battery , it may have degraded and charging it could be dangerous. Hopefully there is a loose or corroded connection somewhere between the battery and the controller
@@EBikeBuilder_ so I bought a brand new display and so my old display is accurate. I just put the old one on. I am also beyond super careful with the batteries. When ever I charge them I always always always do it when I have the time to sit there for 3 to 4 hrs which I do. It does have all those protections but I do always sit there when it charges. But I have one more question if it's ok to ask also about battery I just bought.
My display has 6 bars. The problem is, like literally yesterday. I got 30km on 1 bar, then rode 30km more and used up the rest of the bars. Also to bike form same maker. One has 13AH battery. The other rated at 12.8AH. On the first bike I can ride up to 110km. On the other bike same route, same riding style, I get 65km and I am at no bars.
My cousin has identical bike as #2, and I also bought another, but a 27.5 wheel, same motor, controller and battery. Same result. I cannot break 70km regardless of how I ride. On the original bike. 70km at full assist was normal. 90-110km. on mid assist was the norm, even with wind or hills. Maybe a watt meter will show if the bikes consume at a different rate, under same riding.
Yeah it would be interesting to measure with a watt meter, its possible one battery’s health is not as good as the other. One battery might have better cells or something. The 27.5” wheel could make a difference, in general a larger wheel is harder to get going and requires more power accelerating and maintaining speed, but larger wheels also can achieve a higher top speed with the same motor/rpm. Now in your case where one battery is working twice as good as the other, my guess is its the batteries, or else, if your weight is different than your cousins weight (different rider weights) then that could be why the results are different. BUT, if you are doing the tests with the same rider, i would say there’s a battery problem. The way that you say you get 30km on 1 battery bar, then another 30KM requires the remainder of the battery, that’s potentially related to the discharge curve of lithium batteries, but id say your battery probably has a problem with some cells in a parallel group. The bms might be able to manage it for a while but eventually the cells go too far out of balance and the bms will probably trip and it’ll just shut off
this is just an understanding issue, you not getting what that meter is actually measuring. It's always going to read different under load than not, once you hit the accelerator that bar will dip. You have to make calculations or guesses on the capacity and once you understand how those bars react you can learn to read it. When pulling 1100 watts the bars will deplete faster vs just 500. If I'm showing 3 bars while not under a load, then I know from experience that my bike will only go 10 more miles at 1100 watts, but I also know if I keep it under 500w it will go 20 more miles. If you can't see watts then you can use your speed as a measurement. You can either do the math, or play with it until you understand like I did. A monitor is really only needed if you're running batteries in parallel and have to match the voltage. Otherwise you're just skipping the math part of this and that's no fun.
I have a 48v motor and battery, max out at 1200 watt. However drawing 1200 watt from a full charged battery is a lot different than drawing 1200 watt from a half charged battery. This is why the bar depletes much faster as it gets lower. It's like drinking from a cone shaped cup, 80% of the capacity is at the top end.
A simple gust of wind is enough to make you go from drawing 500 watts to suddenly drawing 1000 watts despite moving at the same speed, same results with going up a hill. Something as simple as bearing grease can change the results of identical batteries on identical bikes causing one to get less miles.
At what wattage does an ebike slow down or die at?
this question is no good, you are missing some piece of information as this is not how things work. Different motors require different levels of power delivery, so try to make a monster motor that expects 3000w move with only 1000w then you will go slow. If the motor is small and only requires 1500w max then it will run fine on 1000w. Additionally batteries have different outputs, so you need to match it to the motor. You can make most bikes roll with just 50 watts but it won't go fast, unless it is a tiny motor with very little weight mounted to it. More weight needs more watts.
A more elegant way to mount the meter would be to buy a cellphone mount and mount it sideways so it can be on your handlebars.
I agree that's more elegant and convenient position for it, but it would not be practical in terms of the electrical wiring. these watt meters need to be wired between the battery and motor controller, using the same gauge wire as the battery, so you would have a long run of wire with 2 wires going up to the bars, and 2 wires coming back from the bars. So the wires wouldn't be elegant. Lol unless you internally routed them or something, which I am not a fan of with bikes.
@@EBikeBuilder_ I shrink wrap 2 12 gauge 2 conductor cables and put XT connectors on each end. This way they appear to be 1 thick'ish cable. I think it's more practical than cabling running everywhere.
i just bought one for my engine x and some 12 awg wires xt60''s etc. going to have it on the handlebars and see how power hungry the bike is with my fat ass sat on it😆👍
how much KM did u travel with ur 197watts hour consumed? me i do 230watts hour for 16.6km (max power of legal ebike no pedaling, around 14wh km
Maybe just put a display that shows watt and voltage...?
true. you can get a better display. But displays are like 50 - 100$. And I don't know of any display (other than cycle analyst) that measures the amp hours or watt hours consumed. These watt meters are like 10 or 15$ its a cheap alternative