Toyota Sienna 3MZFE AC Compressor Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 14 июн 2018
- This DIY involves the replacement of a 2004 Toyota Sienna AC Compressor. In order to perform this task, the Alternator must be removed to gain access to the old compressor pressure lines and mounting bolts; however, the compressor can be accessed from the bottom of the car if working under the car is preferred. The compressor replacement steps can also be applied to other Lexus and Toyota vehicles that have the 3MZFE V6 engine. Highly recommend replacing the a/c condenser to eliminate the possibility of any clogged passages in the condenser tubes.
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Parts and Specialty Tools:
OEM Denso A/C Compressor:
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OEM Denso A/C Condenser:
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A/C O Ring Kit:
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Schrader Valve Replacement Kit:
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Mountain RM6 Chrome Metric Box Wrench Set
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Mountain MTNRM1214 Ratcheting Double Box Flex Wrench, 12x14mm
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4CFM Air Vacuum Pump HVAC A/C Refrigeration Kit AC Manifold Gauge Set w/Leak Detector:
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DuPont 3 Cans R-134a Suva A/C Automotive Refrigerant/Freon:
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102 Pcs Air Conditioning Valve Core Accessories A/C R12 R134a Refrigeration Tire Valve Stem Cores Remover Tool Assortment:
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KUDOS to the camera person with the steady hands. The good quality video made your wisdom easier to understand. Nicely done. And THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Thanks for your critique and support!
nice to see mechanic videos where the mechanic actually knows what he's doing. Thanks for the help!
You bet!
Recently started this job and began doing it like the other ac compressors I've done and tackle it through the bottom, only to find it didn't fit at all even after moving the fan shroud, safe to say I learned something new about siennas and minivans in general
Since I don't have a lift, I generally avoid working from the bottom if possible. Also, by removing the alternator, it opens everything up.
I will be replacing the compressor , Denso 471- 1010 10s20c application on my 2006 Sienna LE . The ac stopped working and after testing the many variables I narrowed the problem down to the clutch coil in the clutch assembly. Using my electronics digital multimeter I did not get a resistance reading ( typically 2-5 ohms) nor did I get a continuity reading suggesting that the coil was open somewhere. I could replace the clutch alone but I am ok with changing the compressor that gave me 17 years of service. Thanks for the steps in removing the compressor in this video.
Thanks for sharing your story. The clutch friction material is the wear item with these generations old electromagnetic ac clutches. Most newer compressor designs are now clutch free with internal dynamically controlled suction and pressure thereby reducing hp robbing load on the engine.
Thank you thank you and thank you! It would take a lot of effort to record in such a narrow space.
You're very welcome!
“All Data” suggests removing the electrical fan assembly. The alternator looks like the better way to be able to see what your doing. Nice video, nice tip on the alt bushing too.
Thanks. Always wonder if better to remove from the top or bottom. Since I don't have a lift, I favor removing from the top.
Indeed I & my wife love the way you do & show any jobs .U are awesome ❤ 👌 🙏 🤩✌
Thank you so much 😀
I see myself working here. Good job 👏👌
Thanks!
I'm about to attempt this job soon. This video is great! Thank you!
Ok...good luck and have fun.
Thanks for the video and the tips.
You bet!
Excelente job señor es ust un buen profesor
Thanks!
Thank you
Excellent video
You bet!
Good video. Thank you.
Thanks Nam!
It is a good idea to replace the AC dryer or filter each time that you open the system.
Yes ... I'd agree. I usually recommend to my customers needing a new compressor to replace both the condenser and accumulator ... that I cannot warranty the longevity of the repair without their replacement. But if they insist on just a compressor replacement, that's what I'll do.
Where is that located in this sienna?
Thank you so much
You bet!
Thank you for taking the time to do these 3 videos.
Only thing I didn't see was filling the compressor with it's oil. Did the denso replacement state it was already pre filled with the specified amount of oil?
Yes ... Denso compressors come prefilled.
Thank you excellent
You are welcome!
When I pulled the lines off the compressor air and white fluid sprayed everywhere including on me. Didnt see that happen in your video.
That's refrigerant / freon being released. There should be no pressure in the lines before you detach them.
Thank you
You bet!
Great video! Can I ask what prompted the compressor replacement? On my van, I noticed when the compressor is on, its causing a lot of drag to the engine and the compressor might be tight meaning causing belt squeal with new belt and tension as you've shown in your video. Is this a sign the compressor is on it's way out? AC temp is still cold. Your thoughts? Thanks!
We replaced the compressor because the clutch would not engage. We checked the fuses, relays, thermister, pressure, etc. Figured the compressor was just worn out. If the compressor is "tight", yes, it's a sign the compressor is on its way out. I'm replacing a compressor acting the same way on a Kia. I had replaced the evaporator a month back and everything was working fine. Then the customer complained about the compressor putting a drag on the engine. I'm guessing the cause of the problem was too much of the compressor oil leaked out and whatever amount I put in wasn't enough after the evaporator was replaced. You can try adding some oil see if that fixes it.
HardlyMoving Productions Thanks for the response! Is adding compressor oil on the compressor itself?
A new compressor should come pre-loaded with oil. Add around 1 to 1.5 oz of extra oil into your condenser or hose leading into the condenser.
@@kenleung1124 I hope thid turned out ok for you. Mine just siezed after having the same issue for two weeks. I can't justify paying for a whole new system myself so I just got a new compressor done and didn't have it recharged. Gonna try to flush the condenser myself and maybe if no metal shavings come out I'll try recharging it myself. No idea if the expansion valve and evaporator are ok or not.
Hi thanks for the video súper I have a problem I just changed the compressor it the car in parking the ac clutch start disconnects and connect o check and the relay under the car hood click I put a new the same problems ☹️. Any idea thanks is only in parking when I driven the ac work fine
Looks like you need to add more refrigerant. Rent gauges at AutoZone, OReilley's, etc for free and measure your high pressure reading. Should be at or above 200 psi.
When I did mine autozone gave me a bad compressor because it kept shutting off and on so I had to do the job twice made them give me 2 free cans of Freon I had to waste 🤬🤬 your video came in handy
I don't buy alternators, starters, water pumps, etc from Autozone if I can help it. Got burned too many times with failed parts and have to provide free labor to replace. If the customer wants it, I make them buy it. Then if it fails, I can't take the blame and not provide free labor with the re-install.
@@hardlymovingpro mine was a Lexus Es330 but it’s got the same engine I couldn’t find a good instructional video
Hey there, nice video. Which one is the hot side or cold side? Thanks
Hot side is the pipe/hose leading to the condenser.
Is this a 3.6 like the engine in a 2007 Lexus Rx 350?
RX350 is a different engine. 3.5L timing chain vs 3.3 timing belt in the video.
do you have a tools list? thanks I want to do this myself, but Need to head to the Pick a parts spot to get the Part
Yes ... they're in the text description of this video.
@@hardlymovingpro what is the Normal time for this type of Job?
thanks for the thorough demonstration! my question is: did you release the system pressure or you didnt have to? if you did, how? can I just release the compressor bolts and open the system? Thank you
If you want, you can attached a service valve to either the high or low pressure service port to control the release of any remaining residual gas in the lines.
@@hardlymovingpro great! what really confuses me is the Pag oil. should I just pour inside the new compressor (it is used and came filled with test oil, so it needs oil, and how much?!) or should I use a pressurized can and add it just like the freon gas? im really confused about this issue and cant find enough information. I would appreciate if you tell me.
The provider of the new or rebuilt compressor should have documentation on how much oil to pour into the compressor after removing the packing oil. They sometimes recommend you pour out and measure the oil from your old compressor as the amount to pour into the new compressor. That does not work very well if the system was suffering from a leak. All of the replacement compressors I’ve purchased came pre filled with the correct amount of oil. I add around a extra 2 to 3 ounces if I’m replacing the condenser.
Hardly Moving Productions thank you sir for your prompt response, it really helps! Can I depict from what you have said that if I changed only the compressor then there will be like 2 oz residual oil inside the system, so I subtract this amount from the recommended amount for the compressor?
There is no residual oil. There's total system amount and compressor amount. Generally speaking, with larger systems, the compressor cannot hold the total system amount. No need to reduce the compressor fill amount.
I just did the job, I replaced the compressor and condenser with the appropriate Denso parts. Replaced the o rings and vacuumed the system for an hour and a half. Before I put the compressor in I emptied it and added pag46 on top of the oil that I poured out to come to around 8oz. When I recharged the system and the clutch engaged it made a weird smell. Is it common for there to be an odd smell coming from the clutch when it engages? It only smells when it engages, after it’s engaged the smell goes away.
I'm guessing you might have gotten some of the pag oil onto the clutch friction plate. Over time, the oil should wear off.
Hardly Moving Productions I didn’t even think of that but that is highly likely what it is. Thank you very much for a quick response.
Hello 05NorfolkPolice. What years is your Sienna? What part number Denso Compressor and Condenser did you use? My Sienna is an 06LE . Cheers
@@abyssalsoul6216 Hello, the Denso compressor part number was 471-1010. The Denso condenser was part number was 477-0574. The compressor will fit model years 2004-2007. The condenser will fit 2004-2010. I have a 2004 sienna XLE
@@05NorfolkPolice Thank you. Recently did this job and I must say the system is super cold now!
Did u have to put oil in the new compressor?
New ones usually come pre-oiled.
Did you add oil to the compressor?
Nope. New compressor came pre-oiled with PAG46. Added a couple of ounces oil to the drier to compensate for the replacement of the condenser.
@@hardlymovingpro I have to replace the condenser and I'm not sure how to add oil in to the system, I have Sienna 2012. Remove cap from the drier and pour 2 oz of PAG46 oil in to the drier?
Yes ... that's one way of doing it.
Is there enough room to change the clutch/pulley without pulling the compressor?
Never tried ... but generally speaking, I'd say it would be very difficult
@@hardlymovingpro Yes i would agree, i ordered the compressor and will change it out this week, pull vacuum on it, put the gauges on it and charge it. (chg the orifice too)
I put a new compressor in it, works fine.. @@hardlymovingpro
Hey ... that's great news ... congratulations!
I had changed one out on a Astro Van, a used one and the front seal leaked, ugh. For people that are reading this, get a new one if you can afford it! @@hardlymovingpro
You don’t have to drain both compressors of oil n put the correct amount in ?
I don't.
May I ask how long it took you to do the job?. I'm attempting to fix my brother's 2005 Sienna AC compressor very soon. Thanks so much.
Around 2.5 - 3.0 including the recharge.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks so much for your quick reply. By the way, did you have to remove the excess oil from the new compressor at all? I'm replacing the exact DENSO compressor as yours. Thanks again
No oil removal required.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks again. It took me a while but I finally did it. The AC system was charged to specification and blew cold air as expected. The only problem I got is as soon as I turned the AC switch on, the car made a loud screeching noise. I put a brand new serpentine belt on and the pulley from alternator worked fine. Could this be a defected AC compressor with bad clutch ? Your thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thanks
Is it necessary to flush the system prior to evacuation and recharging?
Haven't done a flush on any of my ac jobs. If the compressor imploded and sent debris downstream to the condenser, the condenser will trap it. Which is why I always replace the condenser and accumulator with every compressor replacement. After the replacement and during the re-charge, the compressor is putting out good pressure (i.e. 200 psi +). If I just replace the compressor, the high pressure can be spotty (under 170 psi) indicating a possible clog in the lines.
@@hardlymovingpro Awesome, thank you. If the AC is still putting out nice cold air, but noise is coming from the pulley when AC on and belt slips for a minute or two on start (again only if AC is on), does this indicate a compressor going south or should I just be looking at replacing the compressor pulley bearing?
That sounds like a compressor clutch going bad. Most shops won't bother just replacing the clutch because they don't want to see you coming back if the compressor goes bad a short time later. They figure you'd be PO'd so it safer for them to recommend replacing the compressor. I, on the other hand, will make an attempt to replace the clutch ... if the clutch is available at a reasonable price. If the clutch is half the price of a new compressor, then I'd recommend replacing the whole compressor. If it's just the clutch, no need to replace the condenser and accumulator. Just do a good job with the evacuation and re-charge.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the advise. I'm assuming from your response that there is not a way to replace the clutch without breaking the lines requiring evacuation and re-charge? I really appreciate your input, and the video's you've made!
Most compressors are generally in too tight of an area to accommodate a clutch replacement service. So yes, you'll need to detach the high and low pressure lines from the ac manifold then unbolt the compressor from the engine block. So the mindset of most repair shops is to replace the compressor for all the work involved in getting out and installing the compressor.
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Important question: what would be a fair price for replacing the compressor, the Condenser, and the accumulator ? Also, where would you suggest I buy the replacement parts ?
A shop doing the work or you doing the work? A shop doing the work, I figure, would charge between $1,200 to $1,500. Get Denso OEM replacement parts. Their prices are competitive and parts are high quality. Parts links to Amazon are provided in the "Show More" text description of this video.
What do you charge for a job like this? How long does it take
I'd charge under $600 ... parts and labor. Full service repair shops from $800 to $1200 ... my guess.
I assume you cant pull the compressor through the bottom?
You could but found it easier for me to get it from the top.
I have a few questions since I'm going to need to do this job soon. What was the stuff you added to the ends of the bolts before installing the new compressor, and is it needed? Also, it appears that you replaced the o rings on the ac lines. Can you confirm if that's the case and are the o rings vehicle specific or universal? Thank you.
I wire brushed any corrosion on the bolt threads and applied anti-seize lubricate This should prevent or retard future corrosion as well as ease future bolt removal. You can purchase an O ring kit for under $10 that covers a range of different sizes. Very easy to match the o ring you're replacing with the new one.
Can you it again
Hello friend
I am lucky , anytime I want to replace a part , I search till I find you , indeed you are the only one you show the best without any waste of time . Question - please sir👌🙏🙌 ? Does that compressor come with the oil or if not how much oil should go in it? Which side does the oil go in ? The succession side or both sides. we do thank you for your response . My LORD be with you ❤ blessings. Thank you 🫵 🫶
👌 🙏 👏👏👏 . you are number 1 in all U T .For real .👍👍👍 🫵🫶🦅🦅🦅
Should come pre-oiled.
@@hardlymovingpro 👌 🙏 🙌 🫵 🫶
Thank you Sir 🙏
any tips for diagnosing that the compressor is the problem?
The electronic clutch friction plate wears out (which means the pulley won't engage to turn the pump), the pump no longer generates adequate pressure (180 psi minimum) on the high pressure side and lastly, the pump seizes up (usually your 10 amp ac fuse blows out).
How much oil did you add to the compressor? My instructions say to drain the old one and add the same amount into the new one. But my old compressor locked up and no oil came out when I tried to drain it.
I installed a new OEM Denso compressor which came pre-oiled so I didn't have to add any oil. I would guess you need to add approximately 3 oz. At the dealership, we would add 1 extra oz into the AC system for either a compressor or condenser replacement. If no oil came out of your old compressor, I'm going to guess that the oil leaked out with the freon ... if your repair involved a leak. Your instructions should state the total oil capacity of the system ... if not, add oil to the compressor while rotating the compressor shaft. If you overfill compressor, the excess amount will circulate in the system and should do no harm.
HardlyMoving Productions I have the same OEM Denso. Just plan on installing it with the oil it came with, but the instructions said to drain both compressors and only add back the amount that came out of the old one. I guess that works if your compressor had oil to begin with, but mine had about 12 drops. No refrigerant loss, just seized up the compressor. Suspecting defective compressor.
I'm guessing residual oil is stuck between the condenser and accumulator. You are replacing the condenser as well? If the compressor seized and sent any compressor metal fragments downstream, the stuff is going to get stuck in the tubes of the condenser. It's always good to replace the condenser with a new compressor to be on the safe side.
@@hardlymovingpro Mine siezed, and I was able to pay for a new compressor to get it running, but I'm on my own for the rest of it. Will the condenser and/or drier trap the shavings, or could they have gotten to the evaporator and expansion valve?
If there is any debris, it will probably get caught in the condenser and/or the accumulator. You can tell if the pressure reading on the high side gauge is low. The high side pressure should have been observed during the refrigerant recharge. Should be above 170 psi.
How is that 10 seconds into the video and a couple of commercials/ads pop up. What is going on with RUclips?
Guess they're taking advantage of more people working from home.
I hate it for people who aren't mechanically inclined, and have to go to a shop and pay $700 for this easy job...
I hear you but it is what it is.
700? I was given a quote of 1500 for an AC Compressor change a month ago
Auto repair is getting expensive. And there's few high school grads who want a career twisting a 🔧 wrench for a low paying shop.