Just found your channel.. Nice videos.. Thanks for doing a lot of short basic videos.. Lots of us didn't go to school for the basics, so, we miss a lot of simple fundamentals to make work easier.. Will be camping out here for a while to catch up to current.. Thanks.. New subscriber #988..
Also helps if your top surface is actually flat. If not, all the c.bores will look different (have different diameters), which is often the case on raw stock.
If on the first countersink you measure how much above the surface the screw head is you can raise the table that amount, or a bit more, and get it right first (second?) time .
The clip on stop is very complicated to adjust. Imaging adjusting the knee! A really big chunk of metal. Your modified spring loaded sliding stop is better.
Nice videos , good sound and clear narration but , sorry, your punchline is already starting to irritate ! it's too long and too pushy (I find myself wanting to reply "#### off")
Raising the knee makes so much sense! Of course that's not what I've been doing, and that's going to change today. Stuart, if I may ask, why did you choose a 90* spot drill and not a 120* to fit a 118* point on the drill?
I like 90 degree spot drills because you can drill deep enough that you leave a nice 45 degree chamfer on the finished hole without going back after the fact.
@@StuartdeHaro If you don't mind, I have another question having watched the video again. When shooting for accuracy and extended drill life, is it better to spot a smaller hole or one that's closer to the size of the drill? For example, with a 17/64 drill I typically spot with a 5/16. Should I be using a 1/4" spot drill instead?
What is bad about it? Not fully formed? Stripped out? Huge bur? Since you're using a form tap, are you drilling the hole larger than the suggested size on the tap drill charts? Let me know what the situation is and I'll try to figure it out.
@@StuartdeHaro M3 tap, hole drilled with a 0.110" drill. The top maybe 3-5 threads are only partially formed or stripped, if I put a screw in I can wiggle it out. Typically the bottom of the hole has good threads.
I love this little tip videos...Keep up the great work.
Just found your channel.. Nice videos.. Thanks for doing a lot of short basic videos.. Lots of us didn't go to school for the basics, so, we miss a lot of simple fundamentals to make work easier.. Will be camping out here for a while to catch up to current.. Thanks.. New subscriber #988..
Also helps if your top surface is actually flat. If not, all the c.bores will look different (have different diameters), which is often the case on raw stock.
Excellent video, very helpful. Techniques like these do not appear in books that I have read. Thanks for passing on your wisdom.
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching!
If on the first countersink you measure how much above the surface the screw head is you can raise the table that amount, or a bit more, and get it right first (second?) time .
The clip on stop is very complicated to adjust. Imaging adjusting the knee! A really big chunk of metal.
Your modified spring loaded sliding stop is better.
Good info, thanks for sharing.
regards
Either of those quick adjust quill stops are difficult to get in the UK
you got a lathe? make one!
Nice videos , good sound and clear narration but , sorry, your punchline is already starting to irritate ! it's too long and too pushy (I find myself wanting to reply "#### off")
Yeah, it's starting to irritate me too. Consider me ####ed off.
Stuart de Haro Not you Stuart , just the punchline .
:-)
Raising the knee makes so much sense! Of course that's not what I've been doing, and that's going to change today. Stuart, if I may ask, why did you choose a 90* spot drill and not a 120* to fit a 118* point on the drill?
I like 90 degree spot drills because you can drill deep enough that you leave a nice 45 degree chamfer on the finished hole without going back after the fact.
@@StuartdeHaro Thank you. Makes sense.
@@StuartdeHaro If you don't mind, I have another question having watched the video again. When shooting for accuracy and extended drill life, is it better to spot a smaller hole or one that's closer to the size of the drill? For example, with a 17/64 drill I typically spot with a 5/16. Should I be using a 1/4" spot drill instead?
@@felixf5211 I can't imagine that it matters much. Now that you ask though, it seems like some science needs to happen to find out!
Excellent tutorial - thank you 👍😎👍
👍
I'm having some trouble with bad threads at the top of a hole using a form / roll tap. Can you cover and advice for these?
What is bad about it? Not fully formed? Stripped out? Huge bur? Since you're using a form tap, are you drilling the hole larger than the suggested size on the tap drill charts? Let me know what the situation is and I'll try to figure it out.
@@StuartdeHaro M3 tap, hole drilled with a 0.110" drill. The top maybe 3-5 threads are only partially formed or stripped, if I put a screw in I can wiggle it out. Typically the bottom of the hole has good threads.