I went to an antique car show today and got into a long conversation with a fellow show participant who was a machinist. Thanks to years of watching Abom79 videos I was able to carry on an intelligent conversation with the man. Not only did I possibly find a local guy to do any machining I might need, I could tell he enjoyed talking with someone who appreciates what he does. Thanks for the education Adam!
Loved today’s master class in restoring old parts for continued use. Thanks for the expert commentary as you progress through all of the steps and the rationale for each operation. You are indeed an excellent teacher of your craft. Thanks from an old hobbyist still learning the craft since acquiring small machine tools more than 30 years ago. 😉
Hey Adam, very nice mix of content, i like how you get comfortable with cnc and also show things like this repair. What i sometimes miss, is just you sitting in your old shop and talking about stuff, like tools or just what you are up to. Maybe throw that in once in a while if you like, like your Tool Tuesdays or so. I enjoy wathing you for more than 6 years now i think and i like your progress and all, keep it up man 😎👍 greetings from Germany, Chris
CNC is cool and all, but I much more enjoy the manual machining content. Love hearing those old girls spool up get it done. Heck, I'm such a nerd that I even watch your shaper vids from end to end! Lol!
Thank you! I love these manual machining videos. The CNC is fine as well but I really love the way you explain the thought process that goes into the manual work.
This is a fine example of precision machine repair. Very nice work. If I owned the drill press I would have looked up the matching pulleys in a Grainger CatLog and made a phone call. The original pulleys were worn out anyway.
Adam making a nicer mandrill than any south bend drill press has ever had for the pulley. To fix a pulley. Love it. Adam you should send that off with the pulley so they can put a bearing on it and replace the pulley shaft with that piece of art.
This job is a nice example where a manual machine is just the right tool. Also with these jobs it often is not about the exact dimension but more that it looks and feels right.
I'm a hobby machinist, not anywhere as good as Mr. Abom of course but anyway I was fixing up my old Craftsman drill press and noticed that the v grooves were In horrible shape. I used some used steel blocks and cut new pulleys on my old Craftsman lathe. They aren't perfect but get the job done.
For casting repairs like that where there will inevitably be porosity and undercuts at the weld edges I like to use repair comopunds as filler. For this one I would use Loctite PC 725, since it is aluminium. Get it roughly macined to expose the pores and voids, then fill them with the repair putty. Once it hardens it is machineable. Keeps from having to remove too much material to clean them up, and where they can;t be cleaned up, it works great to mitigate the effects of the voids in contact surfaces like the pully sheaves.
You do some really nice work. Love the machine shop and tooling. I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos and for that I am very grateful. Thank you 🙏
Some folks would think, just order a new pulley. Well that is if they are even available. I had a motor rebuilt for a DoALL band saw years back. Problem was some knucklehead stuck the pulley on backwards and it was jammed on the shank. The motor shop ended up breaking part of the pulley so they did the rebuild for free. I checked with DoALL in which they had a NOS pulley but wanted a shade under $800 and that was 20 years ago. The guy at DoALL said the price reflected the 30 years(or more) that part took up space on the shelf(rent). Well, considering the shop guys never changed the speed in 15 years as they couldn't due to pulleys being so similar so all the steps where the same speed. Had to lock out one of the speeds but that saw is still going strong today
Sounding very locked in, switched on in this video Adam, very fast paced and focused. Whatever it is that you're doing that's new, is obviously working for you. 🙌🏻🤝🏻🤝🏻🤝🏻
Worked in a shop back in late 70s early 80s we made aluminum step pulleys on chucker automatic machines by the 1,000s a run every so many months no clue where they went or who for anymore, could buy them or similar in the hardwares back then. Neat to see the repairs done.
It looks to me that the belt was already riding in the bottom of the grove so increasing the width of the grove as you did will aggravate the issue. If the drill press will be used that will be a problem, belt slippage. I believe a thumping belt is preferable to a slipping belt. Cosmetically they look great.
You have different angle in the different grooves, because the smaller the diameter the more the inside part of the V belt gets squished and the more the outside part gets pulled and gets narrower. So. For the same V belt the angle of the grove is dependent on the diameter.
I’ve got that SB drill press. Bought it new in 1965. The problem is that first pulley has bearings in it and they seize over time. If someone attempts to use a bearing puller it is very likely that the pulley flange will crack and break off. Those bearings make a heck of a racket when they are worn, and the power transmitted to the spindle becomes erratic.
Thanks for the heads up. It sure looked like a crack. I just went and looked at it. It was a paint line. I scraped off the paint with my finger nail. No crack. Phew! Certainly thought it was also! Lucky me!
I also like 4140 as well as 1144. I recently gave 1045 a try and I don't care for it, it seems a lot harder to get a decent finish on it compared to the other two unless I go to a file and then there goes my tolerances if I am working on something and trying to hit the mark. 1045 seems to want to leave a rough finish, or fuzz on it as you stated, and seems harder to polish it off for a nice finish. I have tried just about every shape and radius carbide and feed rate with no luck, I will drop the speed down and use a shear blade but even then it's hit or miss. I'm a hobby machinist but my time is worth something and getting something with a decent finish without having to spend a lot of time trying to work 1045 makes it worth the extra cost of the 4140 or 1144 to me.
I've been watching Abom since he had around 10k followers. I was looking forward to that his as one of the biggest attractions to RUclips channels for me is following their Journey and progression. Many channels stagnate and become boring and same old, same old
Now that's what I call a machinist! As a bricklayer I have never seen a machine that would take our p[lace. Same thing when I watch you with those one and out the door. I realize production is more economic but unless you are running a saw mill not quite as interesting to me. I still have not heard what kind of brick for the new house in the woods? Greg
Beware that the V groove angles on a pulley are not always the same because they vary slightly with the diameter. Small diameters ask for wider angles, larger diameters ask for narrower angles. This has to be with the way the V belt profile changes when it wraps around different radii
Some of those cast pulleys are really shockingly bad, and the companies do the absolute minimum of machining on them that they can get away with. The Southbend is better than average. I can see balance holes, but I wouldn't be surprised if that was only a rough balancing and it was still out by many grams.
I believe what he's doing is putting it in crooked, lightly tensioning the lock, and the rocking it out of the hole the opposite direction. With the light tension on the lock, the telescoping gauge with hang up at when it's compressed to it's shortest length which will be when the gauge is perfectly 90° to the bore.
Adam, about setting up the sheave angle by measuring the others - According to the book the groove angle is different depending on the diameter. For instance, for a 4L belt section, the included angle is 32° for diameter 2.65" to 3.24". 34° for dia 3.25" to 5.65" and 38° for dia over 5.65". Might have been able to reduce the amount of material removed if the angle matched better? My reference is 30th edition page 2528 if it matters.
Thank you for the Content. Hyperlapse video speed with normal speed audio is an extra step in video production. So enjoyable to not worry about the frequency of cutting noises going into Dog whistle range for headphone users.
Was the groove tested against a belt? With the wear on the pulleys and the extra cuts there could be a danger that the belts bottom out, which should not happen as V belts drive on the sides of the belt and bottoming out reduces the drive friction and accelerates the belt wear.
I would maybe have removed some material from the bottom of the groove because the belt is going to ride lower in the V since it's wider and you don't want it to reach the bottom or it will slip.
To get optimum drive with the V belt the pulleys have to be machined within tolerance. Machinery's Handbook gives all the specs. If you don't get a good enough contact between the belt sides and the pulley there is a tendency to overtighten the belt that could damage belt/pulley/bearings
Repairs are different than building new. No guarantee the original was built to 'the book', and part of the job of repairs is to take into account actual parts and wear that may be in them.
Pulleys are notorious for having odd belt groove tapers sometimes. If you ever wondered why there are so many different belts for cars, this is part of the reason.
@@firesurfer I have more than 5 decades of big truck and mining equipment mechanic. I've seen pulleys so worn the belts were riding on the bottom and not the sides. Every V belt in the industrial and automotive industries were always 30 degrees included angle no matter the belt width. Just because the pulley is worn, it should be machined to the same angle. Just my opinion and experience. There's a difference between belt grip and pinch.
I went to an antique car show today and got into a long conversation with a fellow show participant who was a machinist. Thanks to years of watching Abom79 videos I was able to carry on an intelligent conversation with the man. Not only did I possibly find a local guy to do any machining I might need, I could tell he enjoyed talking with someone who appreciates what he does. Thanks for the education Adam!
Same here
Thanks for the repair work Adam. The drill press is up and running like butter! 🍻
The perfect scenario: buddies owning a welding shop and a machine shop next door to each other 👍👍
So nice to see some manual machining again!
Oh great a 1 hour long video of awesome metal working from Abom! cant wait!
Loved today’s master class in restoring old parts for continued use. Thanks for the expert commentary as you progress through all of the steps and the rationale for each operation. You are indeed an excellent teacher of your craft. Thanks from an old hobbyist still learning the craft since acquiring small machine tools more than 30 years ago. 😉
Nice, just like the original videos, real manual machine shop repair work!
I don't know why, but I find machining threads always facinating and relaxing. Such a beautiful job done, like always.
It's a good job that he didn't tap the end and use a bolt. Probably too simple.
Hey Adam, very nice mix of content, i like how you get comfortable with cnc and also show things like this repair.
What i sometimes miss, is just you sitting in your old shop and talking about stuff, like tools or just what you are up to. Maybe throw that in once in a while if you like, like your Tool Tuesdays or so. I enjoy wathing you for more than 6 years now i think and i like your progress and all, keep it up man 😎👍 greetings from Germany, Chris
CNC is cool and all, but I much more enjoy the manual machining content. Love hearing those old girls spool up get it done.
Heck, I'm such a nerd that I even watch your shaper vids from end to end! Lol!
Thank you! I love these manual machining videos. The CNC is fine as well but I really love the way you explain the thought process that goes into the manual work.
Great video, Adam. Thanks for sharing. And thanks for helping out Chris. 👍
This is a fine example of precision machine repair. Very nice work.
If I owned the drill press I would have looked up the matching pulleys in a Grainger CatLog and made a phone call. The original pulleys were worn out anyway.
Adam, thank you for sharing all of your thoughts while machining these pulleys. Thumbs up!
My dad would have loved the 21 st century Dykem you used. I remember the smell of the stuff when he was doing layout work on a part.😊
Keith Fenner calls it "Sharpem".
You probably already knew that.
@surlyogre1476 nope, first I heard that one!
I used to make pump and motor bases out of "Ship Channel" Used a LOT of Dykem and Tap Magic. Those are smells that you never forget!
That dial indicator with the pivoting head is slick
Adam making a nicer mandrill than any south bend drill press has ever had for the pulley. To fix a pulley. Love it. Adam you should send that off with the pulley so they can put a bearing on it and replace the pulley shaft with that piece of art.
Interesting, I've not come across that spelling before. At work, we always have known them as mandrels...
@@globalrezzanate9399 You probably aren't going to the same clubs. :)
@@globalrezzanate9399 :) mini lol
This job is a nice example where a manual machine is just the right tool. Also with these jobs it often is not about the exact dimension but more that it looks and feels right.
I'm a hobby machinist, not anywhere as good as Mr. Abom of course but anyway I was fixing up my old Craftsman drill press and noticed that the v grooves were In horrible shape. I used some used steel blocks and cut new pulleys on my old Craftsman lathe. They aren't perfect but get the job done.
For casting repairs like that where there will inevitably be porosity and undercuts at the weld edges I like to use repair comopunds as filler. For this one I would use Loctite PC 725, since it is aluminium. Get it roughly macined to expose the pores and voids, then fill them with the repair putty. Once it hardens it is machineable. Keeps from having to remove too much material to clean them up, and where they can;t be cleaned up, it works great to mitigate the effects of the voids in contact surfaces like the pully sheaves.
perfect content from a seasoned mechanic
That indicator is freaking AWESOME!!! Now I need to go see how much they cost. Thanks for sharing.
You do some really nice work. Love the machine shop and tooling. I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos and for that I am very grateful. Thank you 🙏
Great job Adam.
G'day Adam. This was an excellent restoration with the welded sides, to making mandrels & the final machining. Well done
Ted
good one Adam like watching your videos thanks Rich
Some folks would think, just order a new pulley. Well that is if they are even available. I had a motor rebuilt for a DoALL band saw years back. Problem was some knucklehead stuck the pulley on backwards and it was jammed on the shank. The motor shop ended up breaking part of the pulley so they did the rebuild for free. I checked with DoALL in which they had a NOS pulley but wanted a shade under $800 and that was 20 years ago. The guy at DoALL said the price reflected the 30 years(or more) that part took up space on the shelf(rent). Well, considering the shop guys never changed the speed in 15 years as they couldn't due to pulleys being so similar so all the steps where the same speed. Had to lock out one of the speeds but that saw is still going strong today
After polishing with the scotch bright, your repairs look newer than the other pulleys. Keep up the videos!
Very nice. Thanks for sharing 👍
Great work and excellent tips for new lathe workers. Well done.❤
I love that lathe, what a nice tool. Thanks Adam.
Excellent project. Thanks!
Thank you Adam!
Great job, Adam 👍👍👍
I love those Walter mx22 holders! I use them all the time since we got them.
Very nice work sir
Great video - very educational.
Sounding very locked in, switched on in this video Adam, very fast paced and focused.
Whatever it is that you're doing that's new, is obviously working for you. 🙌🏻🤝🏻🤝🏻🤝🏻
its called adoral
Nice job thanks for sharing Adam
Glad to see a new video
Who is glad???
Great job Adam , lol I've got a set of pullies for a 1978 buffalo drill press that need fixed also
So awesome to watch your videos Adam as always. Cheers!
Worked in a shop back in late 70s early 80s we made aluminum step pulleys on chucker automatic machines by the 1,000s a run every so many months no clue where they went or who for anymore, could buy them or similar in the hardwares back then. Neat to see the repairs done.
I love that you play TOOL on Instagram with your machine work. Pneuma!
Great work Adam.Thank you.
Great work Adam, another old machine returning to duty!
Beautiful work and I love your PM lathe.
Very nice lathe you have.
This kind of work is why I stay subscribed.
It looks to me that the belt was already riding in the bottom of the grove so increasing the width of the grove as you did will aggravate the issue. If the drill press will be used that will be a problem, belt slippage. I believe a thumping belt is preferable to a slipping belt. Cosmetically they look great.
You have different angle in the different grooves, because the smaller the diameter the more the inside part of the V belt gets squished and the more the outside part gets pulled and gets narrower. So. For the same V belt the angle of the grove is dependent on the diameter.
Only the best for Adam's mandrels!
Isn’t the angle of most V-belts the same? Seems you could’ve gotten the angle from the belt specs!
Great job. Thank you 😊
Great Project...Hope you and Abby fair well with impending Hurricane.
Great repair job again.
I think it was way better than the rest of us would have tried to done.
Nice job Adam!!!!
OMG - manual machine work - Yay-!!
Hi Adam . brilliant some Real Machining at last great
18:30 .. I like the blue Sharpie!! .. Looks just like the, "Starrett Blue" ... fast drying, machinist's dye! :)
I’ve got that SB drill press. Bought it new in 1965. The problem is that first pulley has bearings in it and they seize over time. If someone attempts to use a bearing puller it is very likely that the pulley flange will crack and break off. Those bearings make a heck of a racket when they are worn, and the power transmitted to the spindle becomes erratic.
It's more fun to dial-in the cutter on the sheave wall, but if you know the belt size, Machinery's Handbook has detailed dimensions.
Cast is hard to work with but these turned out good. 👌
The other side of the V grove is cracked shown at 40:39
Thanks for the heads up. It sure looked like a crack. I just went and looked at it. It was a paint line. I scraped off the paint with my finger nail. No crack. Phew! Certainly thought it was also! Lucky me!
@@chrispy3866 It's probably a smart move to do a liquid penetrant test on the parts, just in case.
Good job. Rather interesting too.
I also like 4140 as well as 1144. I recently gave 1045 a try and I don't care for it, it seems a lot harder to get a decent finish on it compared to the other two unless I go to a file and then there goes my tolerances if I am working on something and trying to hit the mark. 1045 seems to want to leave a rough finish, or fuzz on it as you stated, and seems harder to polish it off for a nice finish. I have tried just about every shape and radius carbide and feed rate with no luck, I will drop the speed down and use a shear blade but even then it's hit or miss.
I'm a hobby machinist but my time is worth something and getting something with a decent finish without having to spend a lot of time trying to work 1045 makes it worth the extra cost of the 4140 or 1144 to me.
Hey Adam, any progress on the new home pad, and new shop ?? Been with you for a while now.
I've been watching Abom since he had around 10k followers. I was looking forward to that his as one of the biggest attractions to RUclips channels for me is following their Journey and progression. Many channels stagnate and become boring and same old, same old
Now that's what I call a machinist! As a bricklayer I have never seen a machine that would take our p[lace. Same thing when I watch you with those one and out the door. I realize production is more economic but unless you are running a saw mill not quite as interesting to me. I still have not heard what kind of brick for the new house in the woods? Greg
looking good from SC.
Beer and chips ready......lets go..
Yes sir... Thread releaf looks better... And it makes sense...
Professor Adam Booth in the shop today!
Beware that the V groove angles on a pulley are not always the same because they vary slightly with the diameter. Small diameters ask for wider angles, larger diameters ask for narrower angles. This has to be with the way the V belt profile changes when it wraps around different radii
17:26 .. the radius is good for this application too .. as the pulley will be forced against that edge for support while cutting!
Some of those cast pulleys are really shockingly bad, and the companies do the absolute minimum of machining on them that they can get away with. The Southbend is better than average. I can see balance holes, but I wouldn't be surprised if that was only a rough balancing and it was still out by many grams.
It's clear that you didn't do that for money, so you must have done it for love.
Nice work 🔝✅👏
Good stuff
Don't forget to put the set screw back in!
Could have used it to drive the pulley on the Arbor instead of the nut
Nice to see hand lathe work again. Real engineering, I always think it’s superior to cnc
until the break positive point of mass production strategies
I have a 811 indicator and I still don't get the voodoo starrett has done for that swivel head.
how are you getting an accurate bore measurement when your telescoping gauge is not straight up and down in the bore?
I believe what he's doing is putting it in crooked, lightly tensioning the lock, and the rocking it out of the hole the opposite direction. With the light tension on the lock, the telescoping gauge with hang up at when it's compressed to it's shortest length which will be when the gauge is perfectly 90° to the bore.
Do you see the crack in the next ring in line with the weld ???.
Good evening
Adam, about setting up the sheave angle by measuring the others - According to the book the groove angle is different depending on the diameter. For instance, for a 4L belt section, the included angle is 32° for diameter 2.65" to 3.24". 34° for dia 3.25" to 5.65" and 38° for dia over 5.65". Might have been able to reduce the amount of material removed if the angle matched better? My reference is 30th edition page 2528 if it matters.
This was a good episode, MUCH more like you used to do
Thank you for the Content. Hyperlapse video speed with normal speed audio is an extra step in video production. So enjoyable to not worry about the frequency of cutting noises going into Dog whistle range for headphone users.
Your "good enough" is about as good as most people's "precision". Also, Just done? It ain't done until it's D-U-N done.
Was the groove tested against a belt? With the wear on the pulleys and the extra cuts there could be a danger that the belts bottom out, which should not happen as V belts drive on the sides of the belt and bottoming out reduces the drive friction and accelerates the belt wear.
I would maybe have removed some material from the bottom of the groove because the belt is going to ride lower in the V since it's wider and you don't want it to reach the bottom or it will slip.
39:26 crack at the base of the pully to the left of what you are cleaning up.
It was a paint line. I just scraped it off with my finger nail. I was very nervous running to the garage to check though! Thanks for the heads up.
@@chrispy3866 ? That was your pully he was working on?
@@MrWizards1974 yes
@@chrispy3866 Nice. Glad to see you in the comments. How are the pullies working out?
I understand the work done. I hope that for the second pulley that the wall is not too thin. Working with what you have, hopefully that works.
you probably needed to take off the bottom of the grove on the smaller worn grove to stop the belt ridding on the bottom and sliding.
Nice video. Then, it is used with a belt and is doesn’t have to be al that precise.
To get optimum drive with the V belt the pulleys have to be machined within tolerance. Machinery's Handbook gives all the specs. If you don't get a good enough contact between the belt sides and the pulley there is a tendency to overtighten the belt that could damage belt/pulley/bearings
👍🏻
Machinery handbook should have the V groove angle.
Repairs are different than building new. No guarantee the original was built to 'the book', and part of the job of repairs is to take into account actual parts and wear that may be in them.
Pulleys are notorious for having odd belt groove tapers sometimes. If you ever wondered why there are so many different belts for cars, this is part of the reason.
@@firesurfer I have more than 5 decades of big truck and mining equipment mechanic. I've seen pulleys so worn the belts were riding on the bottom and not the sides. Every V belt in the industrial and automotive industries were always 30 degrees included angle no matter the belt width. Just because the pulley is worn, it should be machined to the same angle. Just my opinion and experience. There's a difference between belt grip and pinch.
❤
Surprised abom didn't say something about it... I know he noticed that...
What
What?
JB Weld for pin holes?