Excellent video Stuart, thank you. Very clear and easy to understand. Saved a lot of us wasting money buying the wrong tools for the job! Just what youtube is for. I'll be checking out your other videos soon.
Thank you so much for posting his video! Very helpful to a guy like me. I think some creators on RUclips think they have to make a complicated video to help people out and keep them interested. But less we forget that the noobs need the basics!
Thanks for confirming my suspicions about the pointed edge finder. No one seems to know how to use it. Not even Starrett. Or, if they do know, they're keeping it a secret. LOL. As for the wiggler, I bought a cheap set from Enco, back in '85 and the pointed attachment was bent in that one right from the factory, too. I later, got a Starrett wiggler because, I liked to springy action of the chuck on one I borrowed from a co-worker. I was disappointed to find that, the one I bought didn't have the spring action and apparently, is no longer, available.
G'day and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 that was very helpful and you covered a lot headache's associated with finding the centre of parts and zeroing in on the DRO. Thank you again and Happy Christmas to you regards John
Awesome Video, very informative use of an edge finder or endmill. I particularly liked the technique for finding the center of a hole using the conical end of the Starrett 827B.
Thanks for very helpful comparisons of edge finders and other techniques - easily to listen to explanations. Same appreciation for your other videos which I am pursuing.
I find a Gladwin indicator works very well for finding the center of a hole. It has readings on both sides, and is much cheaper than a co ax indicator. They are no longer made, but can be found online.
By the way the cone can be used the way you've shown but that's not its purpose it's purpose is to locate on angled surfaces Such as finding the center of a future hole (no center punch) on some location of a rod And I don't mean a hole through the center either it's for very rare scenarios very rarely used
Excuse me for this question, but I am wondering about the accuracy of the edge finder in the bore. could you tell me what happens on say a reamed hole, when you swap to the dial indicator, how accurate is it? great trick dial indicators can be a pain sometimes, this can alleviate some of my pain if i can trust it. forgive me for not trying it myself but I dont have a mill at home and company only cares about production and really does not like me experimenting at work. shame really, but production is all that matters. leaves no room for experimentation. even though experimentation is where true skill comes from great vid BTW
Perhaps you've done one already and I haven't seen it, but a video on appropriate accuracy would be really helpful. You touched on it briefly during the ruler center finding portion about it being good enough for a cotter pin. Some of the content creators make it seem that if you aren't down to a couple of tenths, then you're not accurate enough. But how accurate is accurate enough? Certainly a cotter pin hole doesn't need to be centered to a tenth, and to do so would be a waste of one's time. What other examples are there?
That's on my list of things to do. My pet peeve is people who call out clearance holes for bolts at the nominal size. There's usually no reason a clearance hole can't be at least .015" oversized or more and having them too close in size tends to cause binding.
Fantastically informative video worth every second to help solidify the knowledge many thanks. Been curious how to the the conical edge/center finder when it obviously doesnt kick out whilst trapped in a hole. Quick question. I can use the conical edge finder to center myself over scribe lines without center punching and if so use the same machine not running method I assume?
This video is great, but all your edge finding examples seem built with the manual milling machine in mind (so you have the feel to approach it lightly). Is there an edge finding technique more suited to a CNC mill?
These techniques do work on CNC machines. Just get close and then change the resolution on your jog wheel and watch the edge finder tip. In addition, there are various probes available for CNC machines and a nifty tool called the Haimer 3D taster (yes, that is spelled correctly). The taster has a dial and you just bring it against the work until it reads zero and your spindle centerline is over the edge. It can probe X, Y, and Z. These are quite expensive though and I don't have one to demonstrate for you.
Great video, your method of using the edge finder for centering on a bore at the 24:00 mark, can that method be used with dials and not a DRO? I think it cannot due to the backlash, but maybe I'm wrong.
Use an indicator on the axis your checking. Jig borers while having much better feed screws and nuts did a whole lot of high precision boring and hole locating long before dros were invented and to well under a 10th. And they had worn sloppy screws and nuts as they aged. If the bore is larger than the indicator travel then add a micrometer setting rod to get more distance. Get one axis centered then move to the other. It's not hard and there's lots of methods that will work without having a dro. Just have to think around the problem that's all. :-)
Would you buy the Shars center finder again, or is it worth buying a higher cost one? I just use my edge finders and do OK with them, don't know that I can justify the center finder. That must be a really old DRO. Newer ones have a 1/2 function and many other features well worth having ( "/mm, trig, bolt hole circles, memory for multiple locations,,,,!) Thanks for the video.
I would probably save my shekels and get a Blake. It does the job okay, but the screw that tightens the stylus stripped out pretty much immediately, the fit of the styli is a lot looser than the Blakes we have at work, and the dial says the graduations are .0005" but they're actually .001". That last one isn't that big a deal since you're not really measuring anything when using it as a center finder. You're just looking for relative motion, but it still irks me that the manufacturer messed up that detail. It makes one wonder what else they messed up.
Buying Chinese is often a crap shoot. I'm just a retired guy doing it for the challenge. I have a PM1440 lathe (Chinese) that is mostly OK. The taper attachment is less than ideal but does work. The collet chuck I ordered with the lathe is very nice. The threading gear box leaked, I've (mostly) fixed that. The knobs for operating the threading gear selection were really tight when new but have loosened up now. That system isn't as nice to use as the lever style. But when you consider the cost VS a real machine, I'd never be able to buy a high quality production machine. What you never know buying Chinese is how durable they are.
@@StuartdeHaro how does the quantity of adds work then as other RUclipsrs do not have so many, is anything to do with number of subscribers? I watched another couple of your videos and liked them as well, especially the edge finder, I'm a late starter in hobby engineering workshop and realised I was using one of the edge finders incorrectly. Keep them coming please.
Hi Peter. When you post a video, you have the option of saying whether monetization should be turned on or off. RUclips suggests the types of ads based on the length of the video. I do actually have a bit of control there, but I always go with what they suggest. A longer video has more opportunities for ads which is probably why you saw so many on this one. I believe they only show mid-roll ads on videos longer than 8 minutes for instance. The number of subscribers plays into it a bit, but the algorithm is looking at things like average views per video on the channel, viewer retention (which is hurt by ads), and how many clicks on that video in the last x amount of time. I spend a lot of time watching RUclips, so I actually got Premium. I haven't seen an ad in years. As much as the memes poke fun of it, it's definitely worth it for me. Thanks for watching despite the ads.
@@StuartdeHaro Thanks Stuart, the adds will not stop me watching, I don't think an add, unless for something to do with engineering, has ever persuaded me to buy anything, 99% of them are pure nonsense 😂.
As a retired anesthesia guy now try to do home shop machine shop work I find your RUclips tutorials the best. Thanks, Mike in Lincoln, Nebraska
Thanks for watching, Mike! Happy New Year!
Very well done, sir! I appreciate the time you spent explaining and demonstrating these techniques so clearly.
I found this to be very helpful and the best unified collection of the various techniques. Super useful. Thanks.
Excellent video Stuart, thank you. Very clear and easy to understand. Saved a lot of us wasting money buying the wrong tools for the job! Just what youtube is for. I'll be checking out your other videos soon.
Thank you so much for posting his video! Very helpful to a guy like me. I think some creators on RUclips think they have to make a complicated video to help people out and keep them interested. But less we forget that the noobs need the basics!
Very clear, very educational. Thank you
This was extremely helpful for me, thank you for taking the time to put this together
Very good video. I'm sure it will be useful to many amateurs. Well done.
29:32 Like a TEST indicator. That should be TEST. js LOL I did not know how to use the pointed end of the Starrett edge finder, thanks.
Thanks for confirming my suspicions about the pointed edge finder. No one seems to know how to use it. Not even Starrett. Or, if they do know, they're keeping it a secret. LOL. As for the wiggler, I bought a cheap set from Enco, back in '85 and the pointed attachment was bent in that one right from the factory, too. I later, got a Starrett wiggler because, I liked to springy action of the chuck on one I borrowed from a co-worker. I was disappointed to find that, the one I bought didn't have the spring action and apparently, is no longer, available.
Very informative for me as a rookie machinist. Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate. 👍
You're very welcome. Let me know if you have any questions.
G'day and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 that was very helpful and you covered a lot headache's associated with finding the centre of parts and zeroing in on the DRO. Thank you again and Happy Christmas to you regards John
Thank you, and the same to you!
good job appreciate the in depth explanation of the use of the tools
Awesome Video, very informative use of an edge finder or endmill.
I particularly liked the technique for finding the center of a hole using the conical end of the Starrett 827B.
Thanks for very helpful comparisons of edge finders and other techniques - easily to listen to explanations. Same appreciation for your other videos which I am pursuing.
Thanks for watching, Peter! Enjoy the rest of the videos!
I find a Gladwin indicator works very well for finding the center of a hole. It has readings on both sides, and is much cheaper than a co ax indicator. They are no longer made, but can be found online.
By the way the cone can be used the way you've shown but that's not its purpose it's purpose is to locate on angled surfaces
Such as finding the center of a future hole (no center punch) on some location of a rod
And I don't mean a hole through the center either it's for very rare scenarios very rarely used
Loving the onscreen metric values :)
Gosh I’d like to have a DRO,but at least i have a good mill and edge finder 😊
Very useful information, thank you!
Excuse me for this question, but I am wondering about the accuracy of the edge finder in the bore. could you tell me what happens on say a reamed hole, when you swap to the dial indicator, how accurate is it? great trick dial indicators can be a pain sometimes, this can alleviate some of my pain if i can trust it. forgive me for not trying it myself but I dont have a mill at home and company only cares about production and really does not like me experimenting at work. shame really, but production is all that matters. leaves no room for experimentation. even though experimentation is where true skill comes from great vid BTW
Great video. Love the subtitles too
Good demostration
excellent video thank you
You're very welcome!
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Great video, thanks for sharing
I have a spi brand center finder and the cone wasnt ground correctly...when spinning it shows visible runout...time for a return
Excellent video!
Good informative video. Thanks.
Superb instruction. Thank you so much!
Perhaps you've done one already and I haven't seen it, but a video on appropriate accuracy would be really helpful. You touched on it briefly during the ruler center finding portion about it being good enough for a cotter pin. Some of the content creators make it seem that if you aren't down to a couple of tenths, then you're not accurate enough. But how accurate is accurate enough? Certainly a cotter pin hole doesn't need to be centered to a tenth, and to do so would be a waste of one's time. What other examples are there?
That's on my list of things to do. My pet peeve is people who call out clearance holes for bolts at the nominal size. There's usually no reason a clearance hole can't be at least .015" oversized or more and having them too close in size tends to cause binding.
great video good teaching
really awesome thanks
Fantastically informative video worth every second to help solidify the knowledge many thanks. Been curious how to the the conical edge/center finder when it obviously doesnt kick out whilst trapped in a hole.
Quick question. I can use the conical edge finder to center myself over scribe lines without center punching and if so use the same machine not running method I assume?
I don't see why not although I would probably use a pointed object that doesn't have the ability to move around just to eliminate one possible error.
Nicely done. I subbed and want more.
This video is great, but all your edge finding examples seem built with the manual milling machine in mind (so you have the feel to approach it lightly). Is there an edge finding technique more suited to a CNC mill?
These techniques do work on CNC machines. Just get close and then change the resolution on your jog wheel and watch the edge finder tip. In addition, there are various probes available for CNC machines and a nifty tool called the Haimer 3D taster (yes, that is spelled correctly). The taster has a dial and you just bring it against the work until it reads zero and your spindle centerline is over the edge. It can probe X, Y, and Z. These are quite expensive though and I don't have one to demonstrate for you.
Great video, your method of using the edge finder for centering on a bore at the 24:00 mark, can that method be used with dials and not a DRO? I think it cannot due to the backlash, but maybe I'm wrong.
The backlash will screw you up unfortunately.
Use an indicator on the axis your checking. Jig borers while having much better feed screws and nuts did a whole lot of high precision boring and hole locating long before dros were invented and to well under a 10th. And they had worn sloppy screws and nuts as they aged. If the bore is larger than the indicator travel then add a micrometer setting rod to get more distance. Get one axis centered then move to the other. It's not hard and there's lots of methods that will work without having a dro. Just have to think around the problem that's all. :-)
Great explanation Thx
Would you buy the Shars center finder again, or is it worth buying a higher cost one? I just use my edge finders and do OK with them, don't know that I can justify the center finder.
That must be a really old DRO. Newer ones have a 1/2 function and many other features well worth having ( "/mm, trig, bolt hole circles, memory for multiple locations,,,,!) Thanks for the video.
I would probably save my shekels and get a Blake. It does the job okay, but the screw that tightens the stylus stripped out pretty much immediately, the fit of the styli is a lot looser than the Blakes we have at work, and the dial says the graduations are .0005" but they're actually .001". That last one isn't that big a deal since you're not really measuring anything when using it as a center finder. You're just looking for relative motion, but it still irks me that the manufacturer messed up that detail. It makes one wonder what else they messed up.
Buying Chinese is often a crap shoot. I'm just a retired guy doing it for the challenge. I have a PM1440 lathe (Chinese) that is mostly OK. The taper attachment is less than ideal but does work. The collet chuck I ordered with the lathe is very nice. The threading gear box leaked, I've (mostly) fixed that. The knobs for operating the threading gear selection were really tight when new but have loosened up now. That system isn't as nice to use as the lever style. But when you consider the cost VS a real machine, I'd never be able to buy a high quality production machine. What you never know buying Chinese is how durable they are.
Good but too many adds!
I don't control that, sorry.
@@StuartdeHaro how does the quantity of adds work then as other RUclipsrs do not have so many, is anything to do with number of subscribers?
I watched another couple of your videos and liked them as well, especially the edge finder, I'm a late starter in hobby engineering workshop and realised I was using one of the edge finders incorrectly.
Keep them coming please.
Hi Peter. When you post a video, you have the option of saying whether monetization should be turned on or off. RUclips suggests the types of ads based on the length of the video. I do actually have a bit of control there, but I always go with what they suggest. A longer video has more opportunities for ads which is probably why you saw so many on this one. I believe they only show mid-roll ads on videos longer than 8 minutes for instance. The number of subscribers plays into it a bit, but the algorithm is looking at things like average views per video on the channel, viewer retention (which is hurt by ads), and how many clicks on that video in the last x amount of time. I spend a lot of time watching RUclips, so I actually got Premium. I haven't seen an ad in years. As much as the memes poke fun of it, it's definitely worth it for me. Thanks for watching despite the ads.
@@StuartdeHaro Thanks Stuart, the adds will not stop me watching, I don't think an add, unless for something to do with engineering, has ever persuaded me to buy anything, 99% of them are pure nonsense 😂.
No matter how hard I crank the Jaws or bang the part down the parallels keep moving and ratel out