You produce some of the most detailed and professional tech demonstrations and troubleshooting that I have ever seen, complete with excellent photos. I can't believe that someone gave you a thumbs down. Also, I hugely appreciate you didn't resort to adding rock music in the background. There is nothing more irritating than listening to the narration while a screeching guitar ruins the video. Sidebar: By the way, I'm the guy that purchased one of your third brake light flash units for my Chevy SS Sedan. Sadly, I have yet to find somebody I trust to install it, and I wish I took you up on your offer to come down. My multiple sclerosis limits my abilities. Also, I now have to replace the antenna, so the headliner must be pulled down just a tad more to install the new one, together with the flash unit. Perhaps we can make some arrangements. Regards, DanOrtego at 'most common email' service.
Hi Daniel. Thanks for the compliment! I try very hard to make the videos informative. I try to use tasteful background music that doesn't overpower the video scene. I do have another video for my 2014 Caprice where I replace the headliner. The SS and Caprice have almost identical headliners, except the Caprice doesn't have the rear grab handles for the rear seat passengers. In that headliner video, I show where I mounted my third brake like pulser on the third brake light mounting bracket. Here's a link to that video and time offset in the video: ruclips.net/video/6d1oyR0lJWg/видео.html
Hi there! Thanks so much for this video. I followed your every move and am please to have successfully swapped out my fuel pump and redo the wiring harness. She fired right up! Your parts list was a Godsend. For me it was Pin #2 that was burnt out. I've got a 2013 PPV, V8. Thanks so much for making this video, I really appreciate it.
@@RetroCarGuy530 That's great to hear. I'm not the most DIY inclined person, but your instructions were spot on...and I didn't blow up so that's also a plus!
Having the same issue. Replaced the pump and FPCM. Had FPCM programmed. Ran fine on the way home but now having intermittent issue again. Had a friend look at it and sure enough some wires had been nicked previously and taped. He resoldered the wires and car started up no problem. Went to pump gas today and tried to start it no go. Pulled the seat, unplugged the harness replugged it in and gave the pump a little tap with a smaller rubber mallet. Started right up. Next conclusion seems to be the plug on the pump that you replaced. No noticeable damage but need to check it with a meter. Still pulling the 069 and 023 codes when it has the issue. Once started no problems at all. It's been a frustrating process.
Sorry you're having this problem with your Caprice. The P023F DTC implies the ECM and/or FPMC cannot control or power the fuel pump in a manner they expect. That could be the FPCM, fuel pump, the wiring or the connector on FPCM end or the fuel pump end. Since you've already replaced the fuel pump and FPCM, I would assume those a "good". The most common reason for this type of failure is that one or both fuel pump terminal connectors on the car side of the fuel pump connector start to enlarge due to heat generated by a poor connection. Eventually, the connection gets so loose that it stops making a connection and the pump fails to run. You may want to perform a contact retention test like I show at 6:25 in the video. Also check the terminal connectors for any corrosion or discoloration indicating excessive heat from a poor connection. The day my Caprice's fuel pump failed, I was driving the car without any indication of a problem until it wouldn't start in the parking lot of the wrecking yard that I had sourced many of the used parts for my Caprice.
@@RetroCarGuy530 replaced the plug with a new oem one. Car started right up multiple times, took it for a drive. Shut it off and no issue starting. Went out this morning and it started right up. Came back 15min later to leave and no start. Still pulling p023 and p069. Not sure where to go from here.
@HernandezJ35 I just looked at the wiring diagrams for the fuel pump and the only three connectors between the CCM (Chassis Control Module with the L77 engine and Fuel Pump Control Module with the LFX 6 cyl engine) and the fuel pump are at the CCM, the X315 connector (see location below) and the connector at the fuel pump (which is the one that you replaced). When you put the ignition switch in the RUN position (but don't start it), do you hear a 1 to 2 second running of the pump? I'm guessing you don't based on the DTCs. It seems there is still a failed section of the power circuit for the fuel pump. It could be in the fuel pump itself, in the wiring harness between the CCM and the fuel pump or there's a small possibility of the new wiring pigtail having a connectivity problem at the fuel pump or where it was spliced into the harness (not likely but possible). I know it's a pain to get to the CCM under the battery, but it might be worth accessing the CCM connector and testing for continuity in the two wires that run from the CCM, through connector X315 and then to and through the fuel pump. The CCM wiring harness connector pins 13 (GY - Fuel Pump Supply Voltage) and 38 (BK/GN - Fuel Pump Low Reference) should be the ones that run from the CCM to the X315 connector (located just in front of the left / rear tire - on the body adjacent to the fuel tank). The CCM wiring harness connector pins 13 and 38 appear to be on the opposite end of where the wires comes into the CCM connector. The X315 connector is another place that may be part of this issue as far as bad connectivity for this circuit, but usually it's not the problem. From the X315 connector you'll see the pink/gray wires that run up to the top of the tank that connect to the fuel pump or now connect to your recently replaced wiring pigtail. If the wiring continuity check is good, then I suggest testing for power at the fuel pump connector. When you switch the ignition to the RUN position, you should see a 1 to 2 second period of time where power is present at the fuel pump. You should see constant power at the fuel pump when the you try to start the engine. If you don't find power at the fuel pump, but the continuity test was good from the CCM to the fuel pump, you might have a bad CCM or some sort of input signal problem to the CCM which might require another set of tests. I hope that helps.
I ended up replacing the water pump on my 6.0L engine because of it having a lot of slop. My first replacement pump had a wobbling pulley (pressed on unevenly), but it was replaced quickly under the ACDelco warranty. It's not too hard to replace the water pump on the 6.0L engine.
Robert, such a detailed and proper troubleshooting video. As you mentioned this wiring problem seems to be a design deficiency that has to be addressed as these cars age. My 2013 is in the shop now for the same repair. One question about the ACDelco PT2877 pigtail you used: is the wiring in that repair part heavier than that found in the OEM connection? If the wiring is heavier or more stout, one would hope that this will be the last time you are forced to make this repair. I would love to see you working alongside whoever signed off on this type of assembly in the car. Wonder if he would be put off by cutting a hole in the floor above the fuel tank, then working over 6 gallons of fuel in an open tank? Your ability to maintain the same tone of voice is atypical to most of us that are not professionals in the field. Any video I would make would have most of the audio bleeped out, and the subtitles would look like &$@%* of #%&$ ! I will make it a point to view all of your videos on your vehicles. Gordon Bryan
Hi Gordon! The replacement pigtail does have thicker wires for the fuel level sensor only. The pos/neg wires for the fuel pump are the same wire gauge but the wire used in the new pigtail is stiffer than original wire. My belief is the problem is in the connector itself. I'm not sure what starts the problem. If there's normally enough amp draw through the connection that generates a large amount of heat that eventually causes the loosening of the connector tension / melting of the connector plastic or is it a physical vibration/use issue which causes the connection to become loose over time and then a loose connection generates heat which melts the plastic and eventually the connection gets so loose (after it has melted some of the plastic of the connector) that the connection is broken causing the pump to stop working. My decision to cut through the floor was not an easy one, but since I don't have a lift in my garage and I did not have any fuel leaks, I decided to take the cut through the floor approach. Many Pontiac G8 owners have taken that approach to reach the fuel pump. Enough so that a company makes fuel pump access hole cover to cover the hole that was cut to get to the fuel pump. There really should be an access panel that could be opened for the fuel pump and the fuel sender on the other side of the tank as well in case they need to be replaced. There are many times that things do not go quite as planned while filming these repair videos. There's video footage that doesn't make it into the videos due to my "colorful outbursts"! I'm sorry to hear your 2013 Caprice is has the same problem. I hope your car is back on the road soon! Thanks for checking out my videos!
Nice clean job, the mechanic I took my car to, didn’t discuss this idea with me at all. When I had to replace the fuel pump on my caprice 2013 LS (52000 km ~ 32300 mils) last January because of fuel leak from the fuel pump housing O ring seal and a cracked fuel pump housing, he did it as per the GM manual, rear axil was dropped , drive shaft was removed and exhaust was dropped down to drop down the fuel tank and get access to fuel pump, not possible for one person to do.
If there's a fuel leak present at the fuel pump, then this approach is not the best one to attempt the repair. Cutting through the floor has been used by many G8 and Caprice owners to replace their fuel pumps. I just wish that GM had made an access panel in the floor to access the fuel pump and the fuel sender unit on the other side of the tank.
RetroCarGuy530 you 100 percent correct, there was residues of fuel on the top of the tank and I agree with you had GM made an easy access it would of made the job easier for the mechanics and saved me some money , thanks again for the video and sharing the knowledge
اواجه نفس المشكلة حاليًا مع كابرسي ٢٠١٣ ممشى ١٣٠ الف المشكلة من البلاستك الي يتوصل عليه الفيول لاين عند العوامة من فوق ولازم ابدل عوامة كاملة اتوقع انه عيب مصنعي بالكابرس واللومينا هالموديلات اكثر من شخص عنده نفس المشكلة
Yes, I did check to see if the old fuel pump worked and it did seem to work. But with over 111K miles on the car and this fuel pump, I thought it best to replace it since I didn't want to repair the wiring harness and then have the fuel pump fail a short time later. I have about 4.5K miles on the car since I performed this repair and it has been working fine.
When replacing the connector for the fuel pump, how exactly do you crimp the two smaller wires into the larger set on the replacement? I got the same replacement connector for my 14 caprice and I’m not the most electric/wire savvy person. Would you just crimp them normally or is there a specific way to do it? I know you mention something about them in the video but I didn’t quite understand what you meant and the video was sped up a bit when you did it. I’ve got FPCM/FPCM connector/fuel pump replaced and I’m just waiting on the fuel pump connector to come in to go ahead and change that out as well.
I removed a longer section of the wire insulation on the car side of the connection and I inserted the bare wire through the full length of the butt connector so the wire from the car side was present on the pigtail side. That way when I crimped the connector down there would be a physical wire connection on the pigtail side of the butt connector. You could also melt some solder into the crimped butt connector to help promote a good wire-to-wire connection. I did not do that since the power supply wire has less than 10 amps running through it. I see that you mentioned you replaced the FPCM as well. I later found that for the 6.0L the official name is the "K38 Chassis Control Module" when it comes to programming the unit. It is called a "Fuel Pump Flow Control Module" for the 3.6L engine car, while it is called a "Chassis Control Module" for the 6.0L engine car. That module must be programmed to be used with the car it is installed into like the Caprice PPV. Programming that control unit will require the use of the ACDelco Techline Connect SPS2 programming system to install the correct calibration files so it works with your car.
@@RetroCarGuy530 so basically you had the smaller/car side wire all the way through the butt connector that way it would be intact with the larger wire on the replacement end? & yes I’m hoping I can get it to start with the fuel pump/connector and old FPCM that way I can drive it to my shop and then replace the FPCM and have it programmed instead of towing it. I haven’t actually replaced the fuel pump but I plan on cutting it open tomorrow to see if the connector is burnt or not. I had a burnt FPCM connector and rewired it and the car ran for a day and the problem returned so I’m assuming it’s either the FPCM went bad from the connector melting on it or the connector for the fuel pump/fuel pump was bad as well. I just plan on replacing everything to save myself the headache anymore.
Yes, I ran the smaller car side wire through the entire butt connector so it made physical contact with the pigtail wire. I now have about 4K miles on the car since this repair was done and so far it is working well.
@@RetroCarGuy530 that’s good to hear, thanks for the clarification. Hoping I can have everything done tomorrow and then just get the connector on when it comes in. Still have 2 weeks ETA from shipping lol
My 2014 Caprice and another 2014 Caprice both had their fuel pumps fail on the same day. Both had the same problem (burnt connector pin - the other one had pin 2 burnt and mine had pin 1 burnt). It wasn't too bad to correct the problem, but it did mess up my filming schedule for my channel. Thanks for checking out the video and I hope your Caprice does not encounter this issue!
Fabulous video. You did a great job fixing and explaining. Very thorough. I have P069e code and the car is running fabulous. Any idea/input why this code is illuminated ? 2013 Malibu
The P069E DTC is set when the FPCM (Fuel Pump Control Module - sometimes called a FSCM / Fuel System Control Module) has detected something it considers to be wrong with the fuel system. There usually is some other DTC present when this occurs since there is some condition the FPCM has detected as abnormal, so you would hope a second DTC would be set to indicate where it thinks the problem is located. If you're using a scan tool that only gets generic DTCs, that may be why you're only seeing the P069E. If your scan tool can scan all subsystems (FPCM/FSCM included) and there is no additional DTC, it's hard for me to guess where the problem is in your car. Make sure the fuses and relays are fully seated in the engine bay fuse box and make sure the connector to the FPCM/FSCM (I believe located in the trunk - but its location may vary) is on tight (fully seated). I hope that helps in some small way. Good look on finding your issue! Thanks for checking out my video.
@@RetroCarGuy530 Thank you. There is also a P059F, ( grille shutter ), code however, I didn’t think the two could be related. Could they? Your time is appreciated like you’ll never know. I’m actually checking it out for a widowed woman.
I really don't see how the P059F DTC would be related to the P069E DTC. I assume if you clear the P069E DTC it gets set again? If there are no other FPCM/FSCM related, I would check the electrical connector to the FPCM/FSCM and verify it's fully seated/locked into place. I did see one video mentioning that a pink wire on that connector (supplies the 12 volt power) can sometimes get expanded or push out of the connector a bit. My best suggestion is just look for the basics of having a good electrical connection in all of the wires/circuits that interact with the FPCM/FSCM. I wish I could be more helpful.
@@RetroCarGuy530 Okay. So I want to thank you for your input and time. I did as you suggested above and it has been 6 days and no engine light. I pulled the connections to the fpcm module and didn’t really see anything obvious but gave it all a good cleaning and reconnected. So from wherever you are to southern Ca you have helped an elderly widow. I want to thank you again
I'm glad the problem has not reoccurred. I hope it continues to run well for many years to come. I'm in northern CA by Sacramento. I'm glad I was able to help in some small way. Be well and stay safe!
I just started having issues with my ppv. After sitting over night the car will not start first try. Key on a second time it will start no codes. It seems like the fuel system is loosing prime
There's usually a small amount of pressure bleed off with the fuel system with the pump off, so overnight I would expect it to have low or zero pressure. Turning the ignition on should result in a priming run of the fuel pump. If it requires two ignition switch on attempts to build enough pressure, I would say the fuel pump is not providing enough pressure during the few seconds it runs before engine start. I would suggest getting a fuel pressure gauge or a scan tool that can access the fuel pressure reading to see what pressure it is creating during the initial priming run of the fuel pump.
@@RetroCarGuy530 update it is not a prime issue. Tried key on 5x in a row to prime the system with a scanner hooked up had correct fuel pressure even after first prime. And still did the same thing. I'm lost. Ect sensor reads correctly. Iat sensor reads correctly. Had hp tuners running on my laptop to log first start ecu is commanding 1.5 to 4.5 afr on first start when it dies. Second cycle commands 9.0 afr. Looked over all the tables everything matches second start. Can not find any reason why it is trying to command so rich
Being a cold engine, it will be in open loop mode so the oxygen sensors should not be causing a problem. If it can't accurately measure the actual amount of air coming into the intake or the MAF is defective that might be part of this issue. When the engine warms up, is the AFR good?
The fuel filter is integrated into the fuel pump assembly. It's not a separate serviceable unit. The fuel system description lists the following items (including the fuel filter) as part of the "Primary Fuel Tank Module (Pump)" The primary fuel tank module is located inside of the right side of the fuel tank. The primary fuel tank module consists of the following major components: The fuel level sensor The fuel pump and reservoir assembly The fuel filter The pressure relief regulator valve The fuel strainer The primary jet pump The secondary jet pump I hope that helps.
Hey man great video!! I’m having the same p069e issue however I’ve already replaced the pump and wiring. I used a brand new ac delco pump and wiring harness. It worked perfect for about two weeks. Now I’m stuck with the same issue, no pressure at the rail. I figured it was the control module at that point, so I replaced that too and still nothing, I’m cutting the hole on the top of the seat today to check my wiring. Is there any other issues that I’m missing? Thanks!
Sorry you're going through this with your Caprice. You stated that you already replaced the fuel pump control module (FPCM) in an attempt to repair this second zero fuel pressure problem. The FPCM does need to be programmed with the vehicle specific software using the ACDelco / GM SPS system or similar. Did you program the FPCM after installing it? The replacement fuel pump wiring harness pigtail that was installed may have a connectivity problem at the splice point for the wires. It might be as simple as the connector at the fuel pump wasn't fully snapped into place and has come loose. It could also be a new fuel pump that has failed after a short amount of usage. Check for voltage at the fuel pump connector like I did in the video to confirm power is making it from the FPCM to the fuel pump.
@@RetroCarGuy530 okay you confirmed my suspicions on the fpcm needing to be programmed, I’m going to double check my connections at the fuel pump and I’ll ohm the pump. At that point if everything checks out it should point to that module failing? I’ll need to have the new module programmed still. Thank you for all your advice!
The only other obscure thing that comes to mind is on the 2014/2015 Caprice PPV and Chevy SS Sedans there was a customer satisfaction campaign regarding the wiring harnesses that ran near/by the rear suspension and how they could have the tape unravel and get caught in the suspension or drive shaft and rip out a portion of the harness. I had this happen to a 2015 Chevy SS Sedan that I formerly owned. #15803 - Customer Satisfaction - Rear Axle Wiring Harness Damage I don't believe the fuel pump wiring runs through those sections, but I don't know for sure. You may want to take a look (if you have a 2014 or 2015 PPV). If there's no power to the fuel pump and the replacement fuel pump wiring pigtail connections look okay, then there may be a FPCM issue.
It's been just over one year since I replaced the fuel pump. So far, I've not had any problems with the replacement fuel pump or the replacement wiring pigtail. I've put about 3K miles on it since it was replaced.
So my dads caprice I think was having this issue but I think it fixed on its own some how. Whenever he would go to start it, it would act like it would start but it wouldnt so the next day he tried to start it the car took like a good 3 seconds to start but It did start and ever since it's been okay it also used to make this clicking noise when it tried to start it.
The root problem was the overheated electrical connection on pin 1 of the fuel pump connector. That caused the connector to expand and the plastic melted as you saw in the video. If that is starting to get to the point of making only partial contact, it might behave as you mentioned. It works some starts, but it won't on others. Mine worked "well" until the startup attempt where it just didn't. A clicking noise from the pump area might also indicate a problem with the connection or the fuel pump itself, but if it's originating from the engine bay that could be a starter issue or poor connection to the starter.
Given any thought as to why it burned? The Fuel pump module grounds at G401 Wonder if cleaning up that ground would be a good idea? Or maybe the module regulating the ground is what heats it up, sort of a design flaw. I looked at the ground views the manual shows G401 as the battery cable ground but there are no wires grounded there. I bet G401 is the ground on the drivers side far back of the trunk wall. According to the diagram should have 9 wires going to the ground point: www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/GM/3601887.pdf
Just a couple of weeks ago, I was rerouting the power for the backup camera from the aux battery harness connector that you provided to a relay I have over on the driver's side that provides power to my dash camera battery pack. I was getting odd/random (after opening the trunk and closing the trunk) "Trunk Open" messages when I would start the engine. I wanted to fully disable the aux battery in the BCM which would have shutoff the power in the connector the backup camera harness was using. The ground for backup camera was moved to the ground bolt on the passenger side of the rear trunk (G402). Since I moved that power/ground setup for the backup camera and I fully disabled the aux battery in the BCM, there's been no more odd/random "Trunk Open" messages (yes I already replaced the trunk latch as well). I only mention that because I was verifying all of the grounds in the trunk area, G401 (where the battery ground cable attaches to the body) and the two grounds on the rear of the trunk area. They were not loose nor were there any signs of corrosion. The fuel pump control module pins and the plug for that module showed no signs of burnt connectors nor any melted plastic. Without finding evidence of a failure in other locations, I have to say the issue seems to be rooted in the area of the fuel pump. My WAG at this point is that pin 1 (12-volt power supply to the fuel pump) connection had become loose be it due to a fuel pump failure or the size of the connectors used could be a bit too small for higher amp draw power circuits. It looks like the connection became warm, the metal of the female side of the connection started to back away from the pin on the pump side and that in turn caused the heat level to increase. At some point the heat was enough to start melting the surrounding plastic and the female side of the connection continued to back away (get larger) to the point where it just failed to make a connection. After I replaced the fuel pump and the electrical connector using the new pigtail, I touched the fuel pump top and connector area after taking the car for a 15 mile test drive. The temp of those items was only slightly warmer than my fingers. So, there's some amount of heat present during the normal operation of the pump, but not enough to cause the type of failure that was observed with the original pump and electrical connector. There's just too many of these failures starting to take place to call it an isolated incident .
@@RetroCarGuy530 - And in the end GM designed it to last at least 100K. Out of warranty so thats all they cared about. New pump and new connectors you are good for another 100K
My solution to costly repairs: Buy new vehicle and extended warranty. Sell before warranty runs out. Worked for my 2007 ZO6, worked for my 2014 Edge Limited. Now driving my 2019 Edge ST. Yeah, the warranties are expensive, but I don’t worry about expensive repairs. I used to work on my cars but now too old, and cars much more complicated to diagnose and repair, especially without expensive test and diagnostic equipment. Now that I’ve finished watching, I have to say, “Nice repair, well done!” I wonder what the book labor and parts cost would be. Mucho $$
The book stated number of labor hours is 4.6 (not including the draining / filling of the fuel tank) to replace the fuel pump on this car. The parts that were actually used in the repair (not including the fuel pump control module which ended up not being needed) is about $250 + $80 for the used Kent-Moore lock ring tool (purchased a used tool on eBay). The fuel pump was $200 by itself, but the list price on a GM parts website shows it being $413.02 with their discounted amount being $241.62. Most service departments charge the list price. I could easily see this repair going over the $1K level at a GM service department. I was able to keep the cost under the $400 amount. I knew getting into a project car with 111K miles, there were going to be some surprise repairs.
RetroCarGuy530 I hear sheet you’re saying about buying a car with a lot of miles. If you can repair it, that’s good. In the future, If you ever need to drain a fuel tank, here’s an easy way, straight from an official Chevrolet shop manual. www.myruffhouse.com/1969_corvette.htm#FUEL%20TANK%20SAGA
The steps outlined in that website post work for a lot of older cars, but many newer cars either have anti-siphon features in the fuel filler neck or some have a plastic ball in the filler neck to help seal off the filler neck in the case of a vehicle flip over. I'm not saying it's impossible to remove the fuel, but it's certainly not easy.
RetroCarGuy530 You probably didn’t realize that is MY website, and I did the work on that 50 year old Corvette. It runs better than it did new, thanks to my work. I don’t work on new cars, they’re not built for the DIY guy.
BROTHER ,YESTERDAY 1/23/21 I NOTICED THAT WHEN TESTING MY RELAYS ,WHEN I BARELY HAD THE POWER TO MY RELAY ,LIGHTLY TOUCHING ,I WAS ABLED TO MAKE IT CLICK SUPER SUPER FAST ,IT WAS AMAZING ,THE VERY SAME THING ITS BEEN DOING SINCE MY TWO CODES PO100 AND UO23F SET THE DTC ! . IT SHOWS ME ,THAT THIS IS REALLY WHATS GOING ON IN THIS SITUATION ! EUREAKA !!!!!!! :) TODAY I WILL SET OUT WITH MY ,ECT-2000 WHICH CAN BE A PAIN IN DA AZZ TO USE SOMETIMES LOL , AND MY POWERPROBE 3 , AND MY POWERPROBE "THE HOOK" ........ THE HOOK IS REALLY AN AWESOME TOOL DOES MORE THAN I KNOW HOW TO FULLY USE IT LOL ! . THANKS FOR THE ADVICE AND COMMENT ,IT HAS REALLY MOTIVATED ME ,ITS WHAT I BEEN SAYING SINCE MY EARLY SEPTEMBER 2020 NIGHTMARE BEGAN , I THINK ALSO BEING BOMBARD BY 2 HURRICANES WEEKS APART AND DRIVUNG AROUND TOWN GETTING WATER SPLASHED INTO THE ENGINE ,I DISCOVERED RECENTLY ,ONE OF THE TAPED UP PLASTIC CONDUITS THAT HOLDS A BUNCH OF WIRES TO CONNECTION X108 WAS DRIPPING WITH WATER , I SINCED UNTAPED AND DRIED OUT ,I GUESS I NEED TO UNWRAP A LITTLE MORE , HAVING WATER AROUND ALL THESE WIRES AND CONNECTION S DID A NUMBER ON THINGS ! AGAIN THANK YOU KINDLY FOR YOUR HELP ,I WILL HAVE ONE HELL OF AN REPORT TO TELL DIFFERENT SITES AND TCHS ,AND OTHER DYI'S ALL ABOUT MY MOST FRUSTRATING JOB EVER ! LMAO LOL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
WOW , I JUST SUBSCRIBED !!!!! ......BRO ,YOURE A GENIUS MY FRIEND ! AWESOME IDEA , I DEF WANT TO DO THIS ALSO . MY CAR HAS BEEN PARKED 4 MONTHS . I GOT A 2011 BUICK LACROSSE , THE CODES , PO23F AND UO100 HAVE GIVEN ME A NO CRANK,NO START ISSUE STRAIGHT FROM HELL .LOL .DO YOU HAVE ANY TIPS ON HOW I CAN DO THIS ON MINE ? I DOVE SOMEWHERE AND LATER ,3 HRS I NOTICED WHEN I OPENED MY DRIVERS DOOR ,I HEARD A CLICKING FROM ONE OF THE RELAYS ,#7 ,CLICKING RAPIDLY FOR ABOUT 20 TIMES ,GOT IN CAR AND NATA,NOTHING .FUNNY THING WHEN I FIRST HOOK UP BATTERY BACK ,IT WILL DO THIS CLICKING ,ALSO IF I OPEN TRUNK OR MY DOORS .THAT RELAY IS WHAT I SUSPECT RESPONSIBLE FOR MY #10 ECM FUSE THAT KEEPS BURNING ! FUNNY THING ,THIS HAPPENED THE DAY AFTER I DECIDED TO HOOK MY PHONE BY BLUETOOTH TO THE CAR !I I GOT A BLUEDRIVER ,I CANT WAIT TO START CAR AND RUN ALL THE FEATURES ! ...... DID TEST STARTER BY MY POWERPROBE 3 AND THE HOOK ,IT WORKS ,AGAIN ANY ADVICE ,THANK YOU IN ADVANCE ! I GOT THE 3.6 LT ENGINE . I GOT A ECT-2000 ALSO ,BUT THE WIRING IS A NIGHTMARE IN THIS CAR ,HAVING MANY PROBLEMS, I DO HAVE WAY OVER A 1000 PAGES OF CHILTON INFO ,PLUSE 100'S OTHER IN ALL SORTS OF SCHEMATICS AND DIAGRAMS ,SO I ABLE TO FOLLOW WITH YOU IF YOU GOT AN IDEA ! !! ....LOL
Thanks for subscribing! I'm not familiar enough with the 2011 Buick LaCrosse to give any detailed suggestions. The P023F DTC strongly suggests that the engine control module (ECM) or the fuel pump control module (FPCM) has detected a circuit fault of some sort when it attempts to control the fuel pump. The U0100 DTC also suggests that there was a failure to communicate on the CAN data bus with a module or the ECM itself. The no crank / no start situation along with clicking relays also suggests some sort of wiring issue (bad ground(s), a short in the circuits involved with the relay that is clicking). Make sure your car's battery is in good shape with a full charge. Look for bad grounds at the various ground locations around the vehicle. Look for "green crusty" build up and if you find some you may have a compromised wire/ground which needs to be fixed. Look for the "green crusty" build up in the fuse box as well. Make sure all fuses and fuse box relays are fully seated in their sockets in the fuse box. With multiple issues going on at the same time, it's best to start with the basics and check/fix the things you can tell are not working correctly (start with the clicking relays) and then move on to the more general wiring of car. Pay some special attention to the circuits involved with the FPCM and the fuel pump to help to hopefully locate the source of the P023F DTC. I wish I could be more specific, but I just don't have enough info or experience with the 2011 Buick LaCrosse. I hope this helps in some small way!
I need to drain my tank. Im getting codes p0179. Fuel composition sensor. Sensing high voltage to pcm. Im having a misfire code also p0300. I think the misfire is occuring from the fuel sensor issue which is either bad gas, bad fuel sensor, or clogged converters. Please help! Trying to get my caprice running for work Monday
From some quick searching, the P0179 is an electrical circuit issue with the fuel composition sensor. You may want to check all connectors for any burnt pins or green crusties on the connector pins. It could be a bad fuel composition sensor. I did find a service bulletin for 2013 Caprices that covered a replacement fuel composition sensor for 10 years or 150,000 miles. Here's the link to that document. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10093776-0335.pdf
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You are a professional man God bless the man who is good at his job
You produce some of the most detailed and professional tech demonstrations and troubleshooting that I have ever seen, complete with excellent photos. I can't believe that someone gave you a thumbs down. Also, I hugely appreciate you didn't resort to adding rock music in the background. There is nothing more irritating than listening to the narration while a screeching guitar ruins the video.
Sidebar: By the way, I'm the guy that purchased one of your third brake light flash units for my Chevy SS Sedan. Sadly, I have yet to find somebody I trust to install it, and I wish I took you up on your offer to come down. My multiple sclerosis limits my abilities. Also, I now have to replace the antenna, so the headliner must be pulled down just a tad more to install the new one, together with the flash unit. Perhaps we can make some arrangements. Regards, DanOrtego at 'most common email' service.
Hi Daniel. Thanks for the compliment! I try very hard to make the videos informative. I try to use tasteful background music that doesn't overpower the video scene. I do have another video for my 2014 Caprice where I replace the headliner. The SS and Caprice have almost identical headliners, except the Caprice doesn't have the rear grab handles for the rear seat passengers.
In that headliner video, I show where I mounted my third brake like pulser on the third brake light mounting bracket. Here's a link to that video and time offset in the video: ruclips.net/video/6d1oyR0lJWg/видео.html
Hi there! Thanks so much for this video. I followed your every move and am please to have successfully swapped out my fuel pump and redo the wiring harness. She fired right up! Your parts list was a Godsend. For me it was Pin #2 that was burnt out. I've got a 2013 PPV, V8. Thanks so much for making this video, I really appreciate it.
Glad it helped! I've driven my Caprice about 3K miles since I performed this repair last year. So far, it's working well.
@@RetroCarGuy530 That's great to hear. I'm not the most DIY inclined person, but your instructions were spot on...and I didn't blow up so that's also a plus!
Most definitely a plus!
Where is the fuel filter located ?
Excellent video with complete details! 👍
Having the same issue. Replaced the pump and FPCM. Had FPCM programmed. Ran fine on the way home but now having intermittent issue again. Had a friend look at it and sure enough some wires had been nicked previously and taped. He resoldered the wires and car started up no problem. Went to pump gas today and tried to start it no go. Pulled the seat, unplugged the harness replugged it in and gave the pump a little tap with a smaller rubber mallet. Started right up. Next conclusion seems to be the plug on the pump that you replaced. No noticeable damage but need to check it with a meter. Still pulling the 069 and 023 codes when it has the issue. Once started no problems at all. It's been a frustrating process.
Sorry you're having this problem with your Caprice. The P023F DTC implies the ECM and/or FPMC cannot control or power the fuel pump in a manner they expect. That could be the FPCM, fuel pump, the wiring or the connector on FPCM end or the fuel pump end. Since you've already replaced the fuel pump and FPCM, I would assume those a "good".
The most common reason for this type of failure is that one or both fuel pump terminal connectors on the car side of the fuel pump connector start to enlarge due to heat generated by a poor connection. Eventually, the connection gets so loose that it stops making a connection and the pump fails to run.
You may want to perform a contact retention test like I show at 6:25 in the video. Also check the terminal connectors for any corrosion or discoloration indicating excessive heat from a poor connection.
The day my Caprice's fuel pump failed, I was driving the car without any indication of a problem until it wouldn't start in the parking lot of the wrecking yard that I had sourced many of the used parts for my Caprice.
@@RetroCarGuy530 replaced the plug with a new oem one. Car started right up multiple times, took it for a drive. Shut it off and no issue starting. Went out this morning and it started right up. Came back 15min later to leave and no start. Still pulling p023 and p069. Not sure where to go from here.
@HernandezJ35 I just looked at the wiring diagrams for the fuel pump and the only three connectors between the CCM (Chassis Control Module with the L77 engine and Fuel Pump Control Module with the LFX 6 cyl engine) and the fuel pump are at the CCM, the X315 connector (see location below) and the connector at the fuel pump (which is the one that you replaced).
When you put the ignition switch in the RUN position (but don't start it), do you hear a 1 to 2 second running of the pump? I'm guessing you don't based on the DTCs.
It seems there is still a failed section of the power circuit for the fuel pump. It could be in the fuel pump itself, in the wiring harness between the CCM and the fuel pump or there's a small possibility of the new wiring pigtail having a connectivity problem at the fuel pump or where it was spliced into the harness (not likely but possible).
I know it's a pain to get to the CCM under the battery, but it might be worth accessing the CCM connector and testing for continuity in the two wires that run from the CCM, through connector X315 and then to and through the fuel pump.
The CCM wiring harness connector pins 13 (GY - Fuel Pump Supply Voltage) and 38 (BK/GN - Fuel Pump Low Reference) should be the ones that run from the CCM to the X315 connector (located just in front of the left / rear tire - on the body adjacent to the fuel tank). The CCM wiring harness connector pins 13 and 38 appear to be on the opposite end of where the wires comes into the CCM connector. The X315 connector is another place that may be part of this issue as far as bad connectivity for this circuit, but usually it's not the problem. From the X315 connector you'll see the pink/gray wires that run up to the top of the tank that connect to the fuel pump or now connect to your recently replaced wiring pigtail.
If the wiring continuity check is good, then I suggest testing for power at the fuel pump connector. When you switch the ignition to the RUN position, you should see a 1 to 2 second period of time where power is present at the fuel pump. You should see constant power at the fuel pump when the you try to start the engine. If you don't find power at the fuel pump, but the continuity test was good from the CCM to the fuel pump, you might have a bad CCM or some sort of input signal problem to the CCM which might require another set of tests.
I hope that helps.
The water pump on my 3.6 almost shit it on me. Checked for the pulley wobble! Easy to remove.
I ended up replacing the water pump on my 6.0L engine because of it having a lot of slop. My first replacement pump had a wobbling pulley (pressed on unevenly), but it was replaced quickly under the ACDelco warranty. It's not too hard to replace the water pump on the 6.0L engine.
Robert, such a detailed and proper troubleshooting video. As you mentioned this wiring problem seems to be a design deficiency that has to be addressed as these cars age. My 2013 is in the shop now for the same repair. One question about the ACDelco PT2877 pigtail you used: is the wiring in that repair part heavier than that found in the OEM connection? If the wiring is heavier or more stout, one would hope that this will be the last time you are forced to make this repair. I would love to see you working alongside whoever signed off on this type of assembly in the car. Wonder if he would be put off by cutting a hole in the floor above the fuel tank, then working over 6 gallons of fuel in an open tank? Your ability to maintain the same tone of voice is atypical to most of us that are not professionals in the field. Any video I would make would have most of the audio bleeped out, and the subtitles would look like &$@%* of #%&$ ! I will make it a point to view all of your videos on your vehicles. Gordon Bryan
Hi Gordon! The replacement pigtail does have thicker wires for the fuel level sensor only. The pos/neg wires for the fuel pump are the same wire gauge but the wire used in the new pigtail is stiffer than original wire.
My belief is the problem is in the connector itself. I'm not sure what starts the problem. If there's normally enough amp draw through the connection that generates a large amount of heat that eventually causes the loosening of the connector tension / melting of the connector plastic or is it a physical vibration/use issue which causes the connection to become loose over time and then a loose connection generates heat which melts the plastic and eventually the connection gets so loose (after it has melted some of the plastic of the connector) that the connection is broken causing the pump to stop working.
My decision to cut through the floor was not an easy one, but since I don't have a lift in my garage and I did not have any fuel leaks, I decided to take the cut through the floor approach. Many Pontiac G8 owners have taken that approach to reach the fuel pump. Enough so that a company makes fuel pump access hole cover to cover the hole that was cut to get to the fuel pump. There really should be an access panel that could be opened for the fuel pump and the fuel sender on the other side of the tank as well in case they need to be replaced.
There are many times that things do not go quite as planned while filming these repair videos. There's video footage that doesn't make it into the videos due to my "colorful outbursts"!
I'm sorry to hear your 2013 Caprice is has the same problem. I hope your car is back on the road soon!
Thanks for checking out my videos!
Nice clean job, the mechanic I took my car to, didn’t discuss this idea with me at all. When I had to replace the fuel pump on my caprice 2013 LS (52000 km ~ 32300 mils) last January because of fuel leak from the fuel pump housing O ring seal and a cracked fuel pump housing, he did it as per the GM manual, rear axil was dropped , drive shaft was removed and exhaust was dropped down to drop down the fuel tank and get access to fuel pump, not possible for one person to do.
If there's a fuel leak present at the fuel pump, then this approach is not the best one to attempt the repair. Cutting through the floor has been used by many G8 and Caprice owners to replace their fuel pumps. I just wish that GM had made an access panel in the floor to access the fuel pump and the fuel sender unit on the other side of the tank.
RetroCarGuy530 you 100 percent correct, there was residues of fuel on the top of the tank and I agree with you had GM made an easy access it would of made the job easier for the mechanics and saved me some money , thanks again for the video and sharing the knowledge
اواجه نفس المشكلة حاليًا مع كابرسي ٢٠١٣ ممشى ١٣٠ الف المشكلة من البلاستك الي يتوصل عليه الفيول لاين عند العوامة من فوق ولازم ابدل عوامة كاملة اتوقع انه عيب مصنعي بالكابرس واللومينا هالموديلات اكثر من شخص عنده نفس المشكلة
hey mate what is the part number of the acdelco repair harness that you used
I have that info in the video's description section: ACDelco PT2877 / GM 13587174 Fuel Pump Connector (Pigtail)
Great idea, awesome video God bless you.
Thank you! You too!
Hey there did you check your old Fuel pump or not
Yes, I did check to see if the old fuel pump worked and it did seem to work. But with over 111K miles on the car and this fuel pump, I thought it best to replace it since I didn't want to repair the wiring harness and then have the fuel pump fail a short time later. I have about 4.5K miles on the car since I performed this repair and it has been working fine.
When replacing the connector for the fuel pump, how exactly do you crimp the two smaller wires into the larger set on the replacement? I got the same replacement connector for my 14 caprice and I’m not the most electric/wire savvy person. Would you just crimp them normally or is there a specific way to do it? I know you mention something about them in the video but I didn’t quite understand what you meant and the video was sped up a bit when you did it. I’ve got FPCM/FPCM connector/fuel pump replaced and I’m just waiting on the fuel pump connector to come in to go ahead and change that out as well.
I removed a longer section of the wire insulation on the car side of the connection and I inserted the bare wire through the full length of the butt connector so the wire from the car side was present on the pigtail side. That way when I crimped the connector down there would be a physical wire connection on the pigtail side of the butt connector. You could also melt some solder into the crimped butt connector to help promote a good wire-to-wire connection. I did not do that since the power supply wire has less than 10 amps running through it.
I see that you mentioned you replaced the FPCM as well. I later found that for the 6.0L the official name is the "K38 Chassis Control Module" when it comes to programming the unit. It is called a "Fuel Pump Flow Control Module" for the 3.6L engine car, while it is called a "Chassis Control Module" for the 6.0L engine car. That module must be programmed to be used with the car it is installed into like the Caprice PPV. Programming that control unit will require the use of the ACDelco Techline Connect SPS2 programming system to install the correct calibration files so it works with your car.
@@RetroCarGuy530 so basically you had the smaller/car side wire all the way through the butt connector that way it would be intact with the larger wire on the replacement end? & yes I’m hoping I can get it to start with the fuel pump/connector and old FPCM that way I can drive it to my shop and then replace the FPCM and have it programmed instead of towing it. I haven’t actually replaced the fuel pump but I plan on cutting it open tomorrow to see if the connector is burnt or not. I had a burnt FPCM connector and rewired it and the car ran for a day and the problem returned so I’m assuming it’s either the FPCM went bad from the connector melting on it or the connector for the fuel pump/fuel pump was bad as well. I just plan on replacing everything to save myself the headache anymore.
Yes, I ran the smaller car side wire through the entire butt connector so it made physical contact with the pigtail wire. I now have about 4K miles on the car since this repair was done and so far it is working well.
@@RetroCarGuy530 that’s good to hear, thanks for the clarification. Hoping I can have everything done tomorrow and then just get the connector on when it comes in. Still have 2 weeks ETA from shipping lol
Very nice job. I hope i don't have to go through this on my caprice.
My 2014 Caprice and another 2014 Caprice both had their fuel pumps fail on the same day. Both had the same problem (burnt connector pin - the other one had pin 2 burnt and mine had pin 1 burnt). It wasn't too bad to correct the problem, but it did mess up my filming schedule for my channel. Thanks for checking out the video and I hope your Caprice does not encounter this issue!
@@RetroCarGuy530 Great. I have a 2014 also, it's at 108,000. Lol. Keep up the videos. We all enjoy them. Especially us Caprice owners.
Fabulous video. You did a great job fixing and explaining. Very thorough. I have P069e code and the car is running fabulous. Any idea/input why this code is illuminated ? 2013 Malibu
The P069E DTC is set when the FPCM (Fuel Pump Control Module - sometimes called a FSCM / Fuel System Control Module) has detected something it considers to be wrong with the fuel system. There usually is some other DTC present when this occurs since there is some condition the FPCM has detected as abnormal, so you would hope a second DTC would be set to indicate where it thinks the problem is located. If you're using a scan tool that only gets generic DTCs, that may be why you're only seeing the P069E. If your scan tool can scan all subsystems (FPCM/FSCM included) and there is no additional DTC, it's hard for me to guess where the problem is in your car. Make sure the fuses and relays are fully seated in the engine bay fuse box and make sure the connector to the FPCM/FSCM (I believe located in the trunk - but its location may vary) is on tight (fully seated). I hope that helps in some small way. Good look on finding your issue! Thanks for checking out my video.
@@RetroCarGuy530
Thank you. There is also a P059F, ( grille shutter ), code however, I didn’t think the two could be related. Could they? Your time is appreciated like you’ll never know. I’m actually checking it out for a widowed woman.
I really don't see how the P059F DTC would be related to the P069E DTC. I assume if you clear the P069E DTC it gets set again? If there are no other FPCM/FSCM related, I would check the electrical connector to the FPCM/FSCM and verify it's fully seated/locked into place. I did see one video mentioning that a pink wire on that connector (supplies the 12 volt power) can sometimes get expanded or push out of the connector a bit. My best suggestion is just look for the basics of having a good electrical connection in all of the wires/circuits that interact with the FPCM/FSCM. I wish I could be more helpful.
@@RetroCarGuy530
Okay. So I want to thank you for your input and time. I did as you suggested above and it has been 6 days and no engine light. I pulled the connections to the fpcm module and didn’t really see anything obvious but gave it all a good cleaning and reconnected. So from wherever you are to southern Ca you have helped an elderly widow. I want to thank you again
I'm glad the problem has not reoccurred. I hope it continues to run well for many years to come. I'm in northern CA by Sacramento. I'm glad I was able to help in some small way. Be well and stay safe!
I just started having issues with my ppv. After sitting over night the car will not start first try. Key on a second time it will start no codes. It seems like the fuel system is loosing prime
There's usually a small amount of pressure bleed off with the fuel system with the pump off, so overnight I would expect it to have low or zero pressure. Turning the ignition on should result in a priming run of the fuel pump. If it requires two ignition switch on attempts to build enough pressure, I would say the fuel pump is not providing enough pressure during the few seconds it runs before engine start.
I would suggest getting a fuel pressure gauge or a scan tool that can access the fuel pressure reading to see what pressure it is creating during the initial priming run of the fuel pump.
@@RetroCarGuy530 update it is not a prime issue. Tried key on 5x in a row to prime the system with a scanner hooked up had correct fuel pressure even after first prime. And still did the same thing. I'm lost. Ect sensor reads correctly. Iat sensor reads correctly. Had hp tuners running on my laptop to log first start ecu is commanding 1.5 to 4.5 afr on first start when it dies. Second cycle commands 9.0 afr. Looked over all the tables everything matches second start. Can not find any reason why it is trying to command so rich
Being a cold engine, it will be in open loop mode so the oxygen sensors should not be causing a problem. If it can't accurately measure the actual amount of air coming into the intake or the MAF is defective that might be part of this issue. When the engine warms up, is the AFR good?
Great diy video ^^
Thank you! 😊
Hello
I need some help please
Any idea where is the fuel filter?
The fuel filter is integrated into the fuel pump assembly. It's not a separate serviceable unit.
The fuel system description lists the following items (including the fuel filter) as part of the "Primary Fuel Tank Module (Pump)"
The primary fuel tank module is located inside of the right side of the fuel tank. The primary fuel tank module consists of the following major components:
The fuel level sensor
The fuel pump and reservoir assembly
The fuel filter
The pressure relief regulator valve
The fuel strainer
The primary jet pump
The secondary jet pump
I hope that helps.
Hey man great video!! I’m having the same p069e issue however I’ve already replaced the pump and wiring. I used a brand new ac delco pump and wiring harness. It worked perfect for about two weeks. Now I’m stuck with the same issue, no pressure at the rail. I figured it was the control module at that point, so
I replaced that too and still nothing, I’m cutting the hole on the top of the seat today to check my wiring. Is there any other issues that I’m missing? Thanks!
Sorry you're going through this with your Caprice. You stated that you already replaced the fuel pump control module (FPCM) in an attempt to repair this second zero fuel pressure problem. The FPCM does need to be programmed with the vehicle specific software using the ACDelco / GM SPS system or similar. Did you program the FPCM after installing it?
The replacement fuel pump wiring harness pigtail that was installed may have a connectivity problem at the splice point for the wires. It might be as simple as the connector at the fuel pump wasn't fully snapped into place and has come loose.
It could also be a new fuel pump that has failed after a short amount of usage.
Check for voltage at the fuel pump connector like I did in the video to confirm power is making it from the FPCM to the fuel pump.
@@RetroCarGuy530 okay you confirmed my suspicions on the fpcm needing to be programmed, I’m going to double check my connections at the fuel pump and I’ll ohm the pump. At that point if everything checks out it should point to that module failing? I’ll need to have the new module programmed still. Thank you for all your advice!
The only other obscure thing that comes to mind is on the 2014/2015 Caprice PPV and Chevy SS Sedans there was a customer satisfaction campaign regarding the wiring harnesses that ran near/by the rear suspension and how they could have the tape unravel and get caught in the suspension or drive shaft and rip out a portion of the harness. I had this happen to a 2015 Chevy SS Sedan that I formerly owned.
#15803 - Customer Satisfaction - Rear Axle Wiring Harness Damage
I don't believe the fuel pump wiring runs through those sections, but I don't know for sure. You may want to take a look (if you have a 2014 or 2015 PPV).
If there's no power to the fuel pump and the replacement fuel pump wiring pigtail connections look okay, then there may be a FPCM issue.
Have you had any running issues since
It's been just over one year since I replaced the fuel pump. So far, I've not had any problems with the replacement fuel pump or the replacement wiring pigtail. I've put about 3K miles on it since it was replaced.
So my dads caprice I think was having this issue but I think it fixed on its own some how. Whenever he would go to start it, it would act like it would start but it wouldnt so the next day he tried to start it the car took like a good 3 seconds to start but It did start and ever since it's been okay it also used to make this clicking noise when it tried to start it.
The root problem was the overheated electrical connection on pin 1 of the fuel pump connector. That caused the connector to expand and the plastic melted as you saw in the video. If that is starting to get to the point of making only partial contact, it might behave as you mentioned. It works some starts, but it won't on others. Mine worked "well" until the startup attempt where it just didn't.
A clicking noise from the pump area might also indicate a problem with the connection or the fuel pump itself, but if it's originating from the engine bay that could be a starter issue or poor connection to the starter.
Can anyone tell me where the fuel filter would be located on a 2011 caprice ppv
The fuel filter is part of the fuel pump assembly inside of the fuel tank.
@@RetroCarGuy530 that’s what I was afraid of, thanks for the feedback.
Given any thought as to why it burned? The Fuel pump module grounds at G401 Wonder if cleaning up that ground would be a good idea? Or maybe the module regulating the ground is what heats it up, sort of a design flaw. I looked at the ground views the manual shows G401 as the battery cable ground but there are no wires grounded there. I bet G401 is the ground on the drivers side far back of the trunk wall. According to the diagram should have 9 wires going to the ground point: www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/GM/3601887.pdf
Just a couple of weeks ago, I was rerouting the power for the backup camera from the aux battery harness connector that you provided to a relay I have over on the driver's side that provides power to my dash camera battery pack. I was getting odd/random (after opening the trunk and closing the trunk) "Trunk Open" messages when I would start the engine. I wanted to fully disable the aux battery in the BCM which would have shutoff the power in the connector the backup camera harness was using. The ground for backup camera was moved to the ground bolt on the passenger side of the rear trunk (G402). Since I moved that power/ground setup for the backup camera and I fully disabled the aux battery in the BCM, there's been no more odd/random "Trunk Open" messages (yes I already replaced the trunk latch as well).
I only mention that because I was verifying all of the grounds in the trunk area, G401 (where the battery ground cable attaches to the body) and the two grounds on the rear of the trunk area. They were not loose nor were there any signs of corrosion.
The fuel pump control module pins and the plug for that module showed no signs of burnt connectors nor any melted plastic. Without finding evidence of a failure in other locations, I have to say the issue seems to be rooted in the area of the fuel pump.
My WAG at this point is that pin 1 (12-volt power supply to the fuel pump) connection had become loose be it due to a fuel pump failure or the size of the connectors used could be a bit too small for higher amp draw power circuits. It looks like the connection became warm, the metal of the female side of the connection started to back away from the pin on the pump side and that in turn caused the heat level to increase. At some point the heat was enough to start melting the surrounding plastic and the female side of the connection continued to back away (get larger) to the point where it just failed to make a connection.
After I replaced the fuel pump and the electrical connector using the new pigtail, I touched the fuel pump top and connector area after taking the car for a 15 mile test drive. The temp of those items was only slightly warmer than my fingers. So, there's some amount of heat present during the normal operation of the pump, but not enough to cause the type of failure that was observed with the original pump and electrical connector.
There's just too many of these failures starting to take place to call it an isolated incident .
@@RetroCarGuy530 - And in the end GM designed it to last at least 100K. Out of warranty so thats all they cared about. New pump and new connectors you are good for another 100K
Thnks
You're welcome
My solution to costly repairs: Buy new vehicle and extended warranty. Sell before warranty runs out. Worked for my 2007 ZO6, worked for my 2014 Edge Limited. Now driving my 2019 Edge ST. Yeah, the warranties are expensive, but I don’t worry about expensive repairs.
I used to work on my cars but now too old, and cars much more complicated to diagnose and repair, especially without expensive test and diagnostic equipment.
Now that I’ve finished watching, I have to say, “Nice repair, well done!” I wonder what the book labor and parts cost would be. Mucho $$
The book stated number of labor hours is 4.6 (not including the draining / filling of the fuel tank) to replace the fuel pump on this car.
The parts that were actually used in the repair (not including the fuel pump control module which ended up not being needed) is about $250 + $80 for the used Kent-Moore lock ring tool (purchased a used tool on eBay). The fuel pump was $200 by itself, but the list price on a GM parts website shows it being $413.02 with their discounted amount being $241.62. Most service departments charge the list price. I could easily see this repair going over the $1K level at a GM service department.
I was able to keep the cost under the $400 amount. I knew getting into a project car with 111K miles, there were going to be some surprise repairs.
RetroCarGuy530 I hear sheet you’re saying about buying a car with a lot of miles. If you can repair it, that’s good.
In the future, If you ever need to drain a fuel tank, here’s an easy way, straight from an official Chevrolet shop manual. www.myruffhouse.com/1969_corvette.htm#FUEL%20TANK%20SAGA
The steps outlined in that website post work for a lot of older cars, but many newer cars either have anti-siphon features in the fuel filler neck or some have a plastic ball in the filler neck to help seal off the filler neck in the case of a vehicle flip over. I'm not saying it's impossible to remove the fuel, but it's certainly not easy.
RetroCarGuy530 You probably didn’t realize that is MY website, and I did the work on that 50 year old Corvette. It runs better than it did new, thanks to my work. I don’t work on new cars, they’re not built for the DIY guy.
Very nice Corvette!
BROTHER ,YESTERDAY 1/23/21 I NOTICED THAT WHEN TESTING MY RELAYS ,WHEN I BARELY HAD THE POWER TO MY RELAY ,LIGHTLY TOUCHING ,I WAS ABLED TO MAKE IT CLICK SUPER SUPER FAST ,IT WAS AMAZING ,THE VERY SAME THING ITS BEEN DOING SINCE MY TWO CODES PO100 AND UO23F SET THE DTC ! . IT SHOWS ME ,THAT THIS IS REALLY WHATS GOING ON IN THIS SITUATION ! EUREAKA !!!!!!! :)
TODAY I WILL SET OUT WITH MY ,ECT-2000 WHICH CAN BE A PAIN IN DA AZZ TO USE SOMETIMES LOL , AND MY POWERPROBE 3 , AND MY POWERPROBE "THE HOOK" ........
THE HOOK IS REALLY AN AWESOME TOOL DOES MORE THAN I KNOW HOW TO FULLY USE IT LOL ! .
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Thanks for subscribing! I'm not familiar enough with the 2011 Buick LaCrosse to give any detailed suggestions.
The P023F DTC strongly suggests that the engine control module (ECM) or the fuel pump control module (FPCM) has detected a circuit fault of some sort when it attempts to control the fuel pump. The U0100 DTC also suggests that there was a failure to communicate on the CAN data bus with a module or the ECM itself.
The no crank / no start situation along with clicking relays also suggests some sort of wiring issue (bad ground(s), a short in the circuits involved with the relay that is clicking).
Make sure your car's battery is in good shape with a full charge. Look for bad grounds at the various ground locations around the vehicle. Look for "green crusty" build up and if you find some you may have a compromised wire/ground which needs to be fixed. Look for the "green crusty" build up in the fuse box as well. Make sure all fuses and fuse box relays are fully seated in their sockets in the fuse box.
With multiple issues going on at the same time, it's best to start with the basics and check/fix the things you can tell are not working correctly (start with the clicking relays) and then move on to the more general wiring of car. Pay some special attention to the circuits involved with the FPCM and the fuel pump to help to hopefully locate the source of the P023F DTC.
I wish I could be more specific, but I just don't have enough info or experience with the 2011 Buick LaCrosse.
I hope this helps in some small way!
@@RetroCarGuy530 IT DOES MY BROTHER , THANK YOU !
I need to drain my tank. Im getting codes p0179. Fuel composition sensor. Sensing high voltage to pcm. Im having a misfire code also p0300. I think the misfire is occuring from the fuel sensor issue which is either bad gas, bad fuel sensor, or clogged converters. Please help! Trying to get my caprice running for work Monday
From some quick searching, the P0179 is an electrical circuit issue with the fuel composition sensor. You may want to check all connectors for any burnt pins or green crusties on the connector pins. It could be a bad fuel composition sensor. I did find a service bulletin for 2013 Caprices that covered a replacement fuel composition sensor for 10 years or 150,000 miles. Here's the link to that document. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10093776-0335.pdf