@@vancouvercarpenteralot of times you have to buy a bit made by the screw manufacturer, else they just won't fit right in the screw head. Its so annoying
My Dad just turned 82yrs old and i got him his first impact driver. He was using mine when he helped me build a work bench and loved it. Thanks for the tips.
As a 30 yr. contractor I do a lot of exterior jobs requiring color matched screws, and occasionally run into a batch of over sprayed screw heads making it impossible to drive the screw without cleaning the slot. It usually happens with screws that are included with the product. Enjoy your videos I always pick up some good info from them!
@Vancouver Carpenter I remember watching you when you were doing just drywall stuff. Now you got this stuff and your skateboarding stuff. Very impressive man!
7:14 Minor correction: An impact driver applies a rotational impact, not a downward impact like you describe (that's a hammer drill). Thanks for the great content, I watch all your videos!
And the magic of impact drivers is that they stop applying rotational force in between each impact so even if the bit starts to cam out, it falls back into the screw head after each impact.
I'm pretty sure there is a forward vector to the impact as well. Otherwise an impact driver wouldn't do much better than a screwdriver for stupid drives like Phillips.
no an impact driver does not use a forward impact. The extra force of the impact is applied to turning the bit thus turning the screw. The threads on the screw pull it in. A hammer drill provides impact force down through the bit to push it into the material being drilled. Hammer drills are not for driving fasteners. They are for drilling into rock, cement, masonary.
@@454Casull Screws like phillips are purposely designed so that the driver 'cams out' and slips to avoid breaking the head off the screw. If too much slipping occurs, you strip the screw. Impact drivers work exactly the same way as when using a hand screwdriver on a tight screw and only rotating the screw only a fraction of a turn before stopping and making sure the driver is fully seated into the screw head before rotating it another fraction and so forth. All the forward force on an impact driver is provided by the operator just the same way as a hand screwdriver, the only thing the impact driver is doing differently to a drill driver is momentarily stopping applying a rotational force and allowing the bit to fall fully back into the screw head which gives it a better chance of not camming out on the next 'impact'. Also why an impact driver can break the heads off screws more easily - it's defeating the cam system that is designed to prevent screw heads breaking off.
I also find it helps to have pozidriv screws and bits. Also, don't mix those up. Although they're intentionally designed to be as compatible as possible, it's only meant for those unavoidable scenarios where you don't have the right screwdriver at hand.
Good tip video. Always handy to remember the straight line approach. Getting an impact driver is huge too... I finally got my first after far too long of just winging it with a drill. Night and day difference with getting screws in cleaning now.
Yup, whenever I switch to a drill, for whatever reason, its way harder to drive a screw because the torque wants to lift the bit out of the slot. Impact makes life much easier.
Impact drivers are faster, but harder to control, there's no clutch, it just instantly beats to hell whatever you're screwing together. I would say it's great for framing, fences and decks, but not so good for fussy things like door hinges or even fence boards, as unless you have a magic touch, it will overdrive and mangle them.
@@mgjk Interesting, I must have the magic touch. I use the impact every day and only use drills for drilling. The driver is much more easily controlled and precise. I use it for decks and framing, but also for hinges, door handles and cabinetry.
this is an excellent video that apprentices should watch. it sounds so simple, but its great advice. big fan of milwaukee bits and hex screws over philips.
Good info. I'd add that not all bits are equal. Project farm has a good video on it. Also, Phillips screws were developed so that it would cam out. Even with a good bit, the design of them will cause it to cam out if there isn't enough downward pressure for the torque being applied. Get a set of JIS bits to avoid this. They fit in Phillips screws but aren't designed to cam out.
As a maintenance supervisor I have seen the defective screws you’re talking about. As a skater I have never stripped a Phillips screw lol I just like Allen hardware at the moment.
Having worked with beginners I see they are not able to visualize the screw line and always hold the drill off-line. For people more experienced with drivers, using the wrong or worn bit is the issue. I grew up using corded drills. Wow these impact screw drivers are amazing!
BEN! Could you please do video on the reason why we have to trim back the rock about a 1/2” beneath a 3/4” bullnose tape-on corner. I think I just went through 2 extra boxes of mud because the homeowner tried to attempt to tape n’ fill his cottage but the outside bullnose corners were proud because he didn’t set back the rock and it took sooooo much fill to float it out. Keep up the great content! 😁
Quality and brand of screw have a big impact as well. Paulin in my experience are perfect ( Canadian made if you can get them) I’ve found that hardware store brands vary quite a bit. They tend to be from China. Having a good supply of quality ($) bits is the way to go. I test my bits in the screws when I buy them if the yard guy or clerk is helpful. Everything you said I 100% agree with.
I’ve tried torx but because it isn’t common here I could not find bits that fit well. They were all sloppy and were more annoying than a philips or Robertson
@@vancouvercarpenter omg no way 🤯 They are quickly becoming the defacto standard for most applications here in the US but as I stated earlier. A lot of manufacturers are sticking to the old ways. But I would prefer even Robertson bits over Philips. Philips just drive me insane how they cam out so easily.
@@LazyCrazyGuy Torx are definitely the best, but manufacturers use Phillips specifically so their drivers cam out before they overtorque the screws. It's a manufacturing consideration.
something ive also noticed that might be of help to someone is that I've been noticing that a lot of kitchen cabinet hardware has a pozi head on it, this can be a major head ache because eventho it looks like a Philips is actually slightly different. You will actually see an additional lines that a 45 deg offset between. I never noticed them anywhere until i started working with that hardware daily. And these are on blum hardware
Many times coated deck screws have caused problems for me. One batch I bought I’m sure one in ten were crap. Probably wasn’t that many, but it felt like it at the time.
The worst screws are those that come with imported fixtures ,such as curtain rod brackets and many electrical fixtures. They're a soft metal with a slot that doesn't seem to accept any common bit. I quit using them and us better screws. I'd love to see drywall screws go to square drive or torx. I'm so old i remember in highschool woodshop when most screws were still sloted. Even a corded drills were rare to use. We all had the Yankee screwdriver with a sloted bit.
You can find square dimplers for setting screws, etc., but those screws don't work as good with dimplers and are not good at all for drywall. The phillips heads can be flatter, which is perfect for not sinking too deep into drywall.
Are Posidriv screws available in Canada/US? They are the most common in Australia as they cam out less than Phillips due the parallel sides on the cross section of the driver and screws? BTW, most people here still refer to them as Phillips here due to the cross bit appearance.
I also watch the age of my bits, particularly Robertson. When they start to bounce in the screw I toss them and am always pleasantly surprised how will the new bit holds tight. Agree that the angle of the drill must be in line with the screw. In awkward places this can be tough to see. Kids learning how to drive screws have to be taught to visualize screw and drill alignment as it does not seem to be an inherent skill.
Is there a tool (other than needle nosed pliers) that will remove a broken off screw shank in a wood stud? I'm trying to attach a door strike plate to a frame and the crew head broke off and I can't put in another screw because the shank is filling the hole.
I have it happen several times with every box of Robertson deck screws...but I have started using Camo screws and a better quality deck screws which are a torx head
I'm not exactly a seasoned veteran but I have had some poor fitment of bits in screw heads. Seems like a got a bad batch had two or three that had a visible burr or debris in the channels for the Phillips head, so the bit wouldn't even go in the whole way.
Seems like some carpenters are using 3" to 4"screws while reno framing walls instead of nails. With the hammer drill this has become more common. Don't know if this is a good thing but those wall studs look well secured.
I found a brand of galvanised screws that were sloppy and would slip in the last few mm of driving, drove me nuts until I worked it out. I dont use that brand anymore.
ruclips.net/video/AluqSas6eyw/видео.html You described a hammer drill, not an impact driver. The impact driver imparts *rotational* impacts, not forward impacts like a hammer drill. Wikipedia says that it (impact) does both, but I've never seen this or heard of it. If there are ones like this, they aren't typical consumer impact drivers. With that said, you're far more likely to strip or lose contact pressure with an impact driver due to the high burst of torque via the rotational hammering. I still prefer impact drivers for almost everything because of their compact size. I literally only use my drill for well, drilling and when I want to be quieter.
Slightly difficult to do the pressure tip when on a 12 by 12 pitch roof holding onto a rope fastening some roof jacks, to restore a chimney. Haha, still enjoyed the video though. Cheers!
people like to drive screws unnecessarily deep. They'll sink a screw halfway through the 2x4, or almost through a sheet of plywood so you'll never get it back out. Usually, you only need to go a 1/16 below the surface. If your boards don't suck together nicely the first time, back the screw out, and go back in.
in my experience there are actually different types of Robertson's, the ones with a crisp square edge in the bottom and the ones that are rounded over. if you are using a rounded over bit in a crisp edge screw it isn't so bad but the reverse is absolutely infuriating.
I've noticed people without experience also have pressure issues. As they drive the screw, it pulls away from the bit. If they don't learn to keep the pressure on, the head will strip. Same when removing, although it is counter-intuitive to put pressure in the opposite direction of the way you want the screw to move.
One other thing can help drive screws better, especially when you only have one hand for the drill because the other one is hanging onto a ladder or some such. When you grab the drill, choke up on the handle. Put your index finger along the side of the drill motor case, and you can use a little finger strength to help keep the drill straight. Use you _middle_ finger on the trigger, not your index finger. Your index finger is up on the drill motor, pointing at the screw. This gets the center of your arm closer to the straight line thru the screw and screw bit, so you don't need as much wrist strength to keep the drill from flopping all around, and lets you use your whole arm to put some force behind the drill.
yes I have had scews with not to spec, heads, never had a whole box, but many with defects. . Another Important thing is knowing the difference between similar screrw types,. Philips and Posidrive can look the same to the uneducated and they will work with each other under low stress situations, but as soon as you start pushing it, they will slip and chew out with the wrong driver bit. The other thing if the bit does not match, the screw will not stand up on the end of the driver. There are variations on the square and hex bits too. Most people know that there are metric and imperial hex bits, but few know there is an obscure series of imperial hex sizes Then there is the T27, Torks bit trap, lots of chain saws and garden equipment uses T27 screws, but a lot of Torks bit sets do not have a T27 bit, so people go at them with a T25, with unhappy results. . Of course, there are tamperproof versions of all the bit shapes and deliberately obscure manufacturer specific driver shapes. . OH HELL, it's all a trap for young players. . More recently we have an issue with the quality, strength and hardness of the bits. This has been made much worse with the introduction of impact drivers. A lot of the cheap but sets are just too soft and chew out far too easily. Some manufacturers try to harden the tips a little too much, thus they break, especially when used with impact drivers. If you are at all serious or do any qualtity of this work you are best to buy from one of the specific specialist quality bit makers. The power tool branded bits are best considered mid range and a fair thing for moderate use. . Of course if you are using an impact driver especially a powerfull one, you will be wise to buy bits specifically intended for use with impact drivers. . AND finally, always have multiple spare bits, if you don't expect to go home early.
I buy box boxes of drywall screws and you're guaranteed to have at least a few of them where either the hole is not drilled far enough or there's something in there and your bit doesn't go in all the way.
I don't use a drill bit but I knew I noticed a difference in my screwdriver bits when putting on my skateboard hardware the 2 Phillips bit seem to fit it better and now I hear you saying it's actually better for regular construction no wonder my hardware never gets stripped
🤦♂ I cringe when I recall trying to drive straight slotted screws with a corded drill. It was all I had at the time. Praise Torx/ T-Star and impact drivers! For some reason I like to use a longer bit extension. I think it helps me see what I'm doing and doesn't seem to affect the alignment of the bit and screw.
@@Matt-my7pz what do you mean by "Robertson is money"? that they are cheap? All screws here are Torx nowadays. used to be Pozidrive, but Torx is the common thing now.
@@jesperbech8753 I just meant that Robertson is really good for what we have here. Atleast Alberta and BC. Screwdriver sets will come with torx and Robertson Phillips and slot. But Torx isn't that common other than deck screws. It's becoming more and maybe become the standard eventually. Robertson has to really suck for anyone else who doesn't live where it's a thing. You can almost always get your hands on a Torx in a bit set.
Worse in the UK because we have Pozi and Philips to worry about as well as size. Many people think they are more or less interchangeable but there are differences.
I like PZ, prefer them to Philips. I'm not sure there is much of a difference in reality, just a personal thing. We've not quite embraced the Torx and similar in the UK yet.
I was going to mention this myself. That tripped me up once many years ago. Had never heard of Pozi and didn't have any bits for it. I have no idea why they were even available in Canada given the fact pretty much nobody would ever have a bit for it.
So length of bit tool, size and slop while driving will cause a failure? Sound like complaints from my wife...lol 😀. Seriously good topic as sometime we use what we have around and will not change the bit when needed.
Slot is a glorified chisel and Posidrive or Phillips are "meh" in a strong way. Ignore the fact I'm Canadian please, but all about Robertson drive. Being an electrician I so appreciate a good screw 😳. 1) Impacts drivers (Ben is using an impact) also give a handicap or make it less likely for not skipping versus a twist drill (regular drill. Haha Ben just mentioned this. 2) I worked in a fastener store when I was young. When manufactures produce screws, the die can be either really fresh or worn out which affects how well it seats. Sometimes you can't get the screw off of the bit. Other screws are sloppy no matter if you have a brand new bit. On occasion get a batch of screws that are complete shit to fit to a driver bit. Self tapping Robertson screws seem to get this a lot. Then there is the deck screws that get filled with the green or brown coating. You can't even begin to drive it. Grabber brand drywall screws on the other hand, with the bit provided are incredibly good! Ben knows all this I'm just feeling like I'm part of the cool kids group.
I am surprised that few know that there is a Special bit for Coated #2 Robertson (square) Deck Screws (Approved for Pressure Treated wood) ... A Standard #2 "Robbie" will work, but the screw itself, was a #2 Before the coating was applied so the "holding power" from screw to bit is just not there. these bits are not not Typically colour coded (Green Red or Black), but rather just Steel (or Chrome). I know the screw itself is not a "Number 2" but rather a # 8 or 10 etc. the #2 referenced the slot that is used to drive the screw. Thanks for the Videos! I watch nearly all of them... and I Hate Drywall!! lol
@@vancouvercarpenter Don't bother! they will be in your assortment of bits in all the places that you think that makes sense to store Bits... you will NEVER find it, and will choose the #2 Robbie Every time! Ask me how I know!!
Torx is even worse to stripping w/ the wrong size bit. That being said: it's still the best head for wood screws (save for the hex one, driven with a proper socket)
@@stanimir4197 not sure I agree. In my experience a t-20 will work okay on a t-25 head in a pinch. And if you do manage to strip it it'll still be drivable when you get the proper T25 bit. Hex is much less forgiving. If you strip it with an improper bit your SOL. To be fair though I don't have a ton of experience with hex.
Robertson screws are 2-4-6-8 & 10. I have never heard of 1-2-3. If screws and Drivers were made to Robertson's original specifications, there wouldn't be a problem.
2:49 Sloppy screw head tolerances weren't common back in the 80's and 90's but right around the early 2000's I started to notice that Robertson #2 and some #1 and #3 heads were very poorly 'stamped'. Oddly, it was around that time that certain 'brands' decided to stop making their screws in Canada and go off shore. Make what you will of that but the quality of the bits to drive them also went down around the same time. Oddly, right around the time that Robertson's patent expired it got even worse. Lately, it's hit and miss. I may go through several boxes of (100) screws and be fine then hit a batch (lot #) and have to return them all. Sometimes you clearly see the poor production quality so I mention it to the store department manager as a heads up but few give a crap. Not bashing any companies or countries but just stating personal experiences. YMMV.
Though it didn't come up in the video, those Pozi-drive screws are annoying. I find them in cabinets and door hardware. They look almost like Phillips but strip easily with a Phillips bit. Of course you're supposed to use the correct PZ driver but does the average homeowner have PZ bits handy or even know the difference?
We buy them by the box or bulk by the pound in a bag. In the big box stores, they are all now in boxes. Probably more where you tend to shop than a US/Can difference.
A huge problem with Robbie's now a days is they're not all made exactly the same. Bits often times a few microns too large and never fully seat in the screw head. Fucking drives me bananas and you've gotta go through bits to find one that works well enough to go. We used to use 3/4 #10 Robbie pan heads tecks for running conduit, but they're so trash now it's just easier to use a robbie for the fittings and a 5/16 headed Teck screw.
Without even watching the video, I say Dewalt bits are your number one reason for stripping a screw. They suck I bought the new and improved one supposedly around Christmas time 2022 they are the worst bits I’ve ever used i’m guessing they are the same metal they make the Black & Decker ones out of. A long time ago before I owned any tools I bought a Black & Decker bed set and it’s about the same quality as Dewalt .
Instead of using North American Phillips screwdriver bits buy a Japanese Service 1 (JS1) bit. They fit our phillips screws way better then what we commonly use. You cannot use our Phillip bits on a JS1 phillip screws.
Good video. Except for 2 points: (1) Should've done a counter, keeping track of whenever you said "bit" or "bits" -- interesting drinking game for sure. And (2) Everytime you said "drill bit" my OCD made me cringe. You meant to say "driver bit" since a drill bit can only create holes (fluted, spiral, twist, spade, forstner, step for various materials of wood, metal, plastic, ceramic tile, porcelain and concrete/ masonry).
The kisses of death for me are over-reaching so I don't get behind the screw properly, and driving screws where there isn't enough clearance for the driver to attain property alignment... I am the height I am, so using or moving a ladder often solves the first problem. Using long bits and even extensions helps with the clearance problem. There are times, however, when using one of my ratcheting braces with a screwdriver bit comes in handy for driving large straight-slot screws as I can put weight behind it and have lots of leverage if I use a brace with a long throw. Screws have gotten crappier over the years too... something hard to tell from looking at the package and going by price has become meaningless. RE the latter, I try to buy my fasteners at a locally owned hardware store. This as for identical products they are always less expensive than the big box stores, and they are also more likely to have quality fasteners available for prices similar to the big box stores.
This must be the reason why all hinge screws on pre-hang doors are driven at unright angles (like this ruclips.net/video/Jli7JIfg0TA/видео.html). What else could that be? It's not like they don't care, right?
i have had lots of crap screws usually the junk that comes with a cabinet or hinge cheap made in China crap the good quality name brand made in America screws work a lot better and are properly hardened and rustproofed.
Some of the fine Chinese hardware is METRIC Phillips apparently (which some people never even heard of). I threw away the screws for something I bought because no matter what SAE Phillips I used they wouldn't work.
Always grind the point off of #1 philips screwdriver heads. They are TOO pointy to work correctly and it seems like the manufacturers can figure that out.
Or with Robertson deck screws, the coating can be built up in one out of every 40 something screws. Just toss that one right in the can and move one.
I totally forgot to mention coated screws. Some brands of those are so bad.
sometimes i get the ones that have shavings coated right into the screw head
@@vancouvercarpenteralot of times you have to buy a bit made by the screw manufacturer, else they just won't fit right in the screw head. Its so annoying
My Dad just turned 82yrs old and i got him his first impact driver. He was using mine when he helped me build a work bench and loved it.
Thanks for the tips.
As a 30 yr. contractor I do a lot of exterior jobs requiring color matched screws, and occasionally run into a batch of over sprayed screw heads making it impossible to drive the screw without cleaning the slot. It usually happens with screws that are included with the product. Enjoy your videos I always pick up some good info from them!
I watch and comment on this one for the algorithm.
Good call
Thanks🙂
@Vancouver Carpenter I remember watching you when you were doing just drywall stuff. Now you got this stuff and your skateboarding stuff. Very impressive man!
My problem has also been shredding the bit too. I’m full on DIY so just learning all this stuff. This is helpful to know!!
“Visualize straight line”- such a helpful reminder!
Such a simple concept but a very needed video. Thank you
7:14 Minor correction: An impact driver applies a rotational impact, not a downward impact like you describe (that's a hammer drill). Thanks for the great content, I watch all your videos!
And the magic of impact drivers is that they stop applying rotational force in between each impact so even if the bit starts to cam out, it falls back into the screw head after each impact.
I'm pretty sure there is a forward vector to the impact as well. Otherwise an impact driver wouldn't do much better than a screwdriver for stupid drives like Phillips.
no an impact driver does not use a forward impact. The extra force of the impact is applied to turning the bit thus turning the screw. The threads on the screw pull it in. A hammer drill provides impact force down through the bit to push it into the material being drilled. Hammer drills are not for driving fasteners. They are for drilling into rock, cement, masonary.
@@454Casull Screws like phillips are purposely designed so that the driver 'cams out' and slips to avoid breaking the head off the screw. If too much slipping occurs, you strip the screw. Impact drivers work exactly the same way as when using a hand screwdriver on a tight screw and only rotating the screw only a fraction of a turn before stopping and making sure the driver is fully seated into the screw head before rotating it another fraction and so forth. All the forward force on an impact driver is provided by the operator just the same way as a hand screwdriver, the only thing the impact driver is doing differently to a drill driver is momentarily stopping applying a rotational force and allowing the bit to fall fully back into the screw head which gives it a better chance of not camming out on the next 'impact'. Also why an impact driver can break the heads off screws more easily - it's defeating the cam system that is designed to prevent screw heads breaking off.
I also find it helps to have pozidriv screws and bits. Also, don't mix those up.
Although they're intentionally designed to be as compatible as possible, it's only meant for those unavoidable scenarios where you don't have the right screwdriver at hand.
Thank you for covering basics!!
I hope your project's going well, and more importantly, I hope you're doing even better!
I use the impact bits with my impact driver. They seem to make a huge difference. I thought it was a gimmick but I was surprised.
Good tip video. Always handy to remember the straight line approach. Getting an impact driver is huge too... I finally got my first after far too long of just winging it with a drill. Night and day difference with getting screws in cleaning now.
Yup, whenever I switch to a drill, for whatever reason, its way harder to drive a screw because the torque wants to lift the bit out of the slot. Impact makes life much easier.
Impact drivers are faster, but harder to control, there's no clutch, it just instantly beats to hell whatever you're screwing together. I would say it's great for framing, fences and decks, but not so good for fussy things like door hinges or even fence boards, as unless you have a magic touch, it will overdrive and mangle them.
@@mgjk Interesting, I must have the magic touch. I use the impact every day and only use drills for drilling. The driver is much more easily controlled and precise. I use it for decks and framing, but also for hinges, door handles and cabinetry.
@@markoshun Agreed, he just confirmed what all the ladies tell me, my fingers have the magic touch.
Love my picquic had it 20 years. Great video
Great advice, thank you.
this is an excellent video that apprentices should watch. it sounds so simple, but its great advice.
big fan of milwaukee bits and hex screws over philips.
i always thought shorter bits were easier, but when i tried the 6" it actually forced me to straighten the driver and it became a lot easier.
I could see how it could help.
Good info. I'd add that not all bits are equal. Project farm has a good video on it. Also, Phillips screws were developed so that it would cam out. Even with a good bit, the design of them will cause it to cam out if there isn't enough downward pressure for the torque being applied. Get a set of JIS bits to avoid this. They fit in Phillips screws but aren't designed to cam out.
As a maintenance supervisor I have seen the defective screws you’re talking about. As a skater I have never stripped a Phillips screw lol I just like Allen hardware at the moment.
Having worked with beginners I see they are not able to visualize the screw line and always hold the drill off-line. For people more experienced with drivers, using the wrong or worn bit is the issue.
I grew up using corded drills. Wow these impact screw drivers are amazing!
Just having cordless drill/drivers is more than enough for me; no messing with extension cords, especially for quick jobs.
BEN! Could you please do video on the reason why we have to trim back the rock about a 1/2” beneath a 3/4” bullnose tape-on corner. I think I just went through 2 extra boxes of mud because the homeowner tried to attempt to tape n’ fill his cottage but the outside bullnose corners were proud because he didn’t set back the rock and it took sooooo much fill to float it out.
Keep up the great content! 😁
Yep, right bit, correct angle. I personally like sq head screws. Harder to ‘screw’ up.
Quality and brand of screw have a big impact as well. Paulin in my experience are perfect ( Canadian made if you can get them) I’ve found that hardware store brands vary quite a bit. They tend to be from China. Having a good supply of quality ($) bits is the way to go. I test my bits in the screws when I buy them if the yard guy or clerk is helpful. Everything you said I 100% agree with.
This. Company I work for always gets fitsfast or something like that. Complete garbage.
I like your style.
And my favorite screw..GRK t19 washer head..
Phillips heads suck. I've moved on to Torx. Problem solved in my world. Thanks for the videos 🥃🥃
Yes but manufacturers for a lot of different things use Philips still. Drives me insane because as you stated Torx is the best!
@@LazyCrazyGuy Im in the process of remodeling my house. I used Phillips only for the drywall.
I’ve tried torx but because it isn’t common here I could not find bits that fit well. They were all sloppy and were more annoying than a philips or Robertson
@@vancouvercarpenter omg no way 🤯
They are quickly becoming the defacto standard for most applications here in the US but as I stated earlier. A lot of manufacturers are sticking to the old ways. But I would prefer even Robertson bits over Philips. Philips just drive me insane how they cam out so easily.
@@LazyCrazyGuy Torx are definitely the best, but manufacturers use Phillips specifically so their drivers cam out before they overtorque the screws. It's a manufacturing consideration.
something ive also noticed that might be of help to someone is that I've been noticing that a lot of kitchen cabinet hardware has a pozi head on it, this can be a major head ache because eventho it looks like a Philips is actually slightly different.
You will actually see an additional lines that a 45 deg offset between.
I never noticed them anywhere until i started working with that hardware daily.
And these are on blum hardware
Many times coated deck screws have caused problems for me. One batch I bought I’m sure one in ten were crap.
Probably wasn’t that many, but it felt like it at the time.
The worst screws are those that come with imported fixtures ,such as curtain rod brackets and many electrical fixtures. They're a soft metal with a slot that doesn't seem to accept any common bit. I quit using them and us better screws. I'd love to see drywall screws go to square drive or torx. I'm so old i remember in highschool woodshop when most screws were still sloted. Even a corded drills were rare to use. We all had the Yankee screwdriver with a sloted bit.
You can find square dimplers for setting screws, etc., but those screws don't work as good with dimplers and are not good at all for drywall. The phillips heads can be flatter, which is perfect for not sinking too deep into drywall.
That was one of the greatest intros ever. 😂😂
Thanks
Thanks
Are Posidriv screws available in Canada/US? They are the most common in Australia as they cam out less than Phillips due the parallel sides on the cross section of the driver and screws? BTW, most people here still refer to them as Phillips here due to the cross bit appearance.
I also watch the age of my bits, particularly Robertson. When they start to bounce in the screw I toss them and am always pleasantly surprised how will the new bit holds tight. Agree that the angle of the drill must be in line with the screw. In awkward places this can be tough to see.
Kids learning how to drive screws have to be taught to visualize screw and drill alignment as it does not seem to be an inherent skill.
Praise be a upload
Proper bit, angle, and forward pressure. That bump to get it started is a good tip. #commentforthealgorithm #vancouverscrewer #ranoutofvideoideas
Do you ever use adhesive when hanging boards?
I've had dozens of deck screws where there is excess coating in the head that I use another screw to dig out to get the bit to sit properly
Is there a tool (other than needle nosed pliers) that will remove a broken off screw shank in a wood stud? I'm trying to attach a door strike plate to a frame and the crew head broke off and I can't put in another screw because the shank is filling the hole.
Many (many) T20 ceramic coated with casting crud in the screw, preventing bit from sinking correctly
I have it happen several times with every box of Robertson deck screws...but I have started using Camo screws and a better quality deck screws which are a torx head
I'm not exactly a seasoned veteran but I have had some poor fitment of bits in screw heads. Seems like a got a bad batch had two or three that had a visible burr or debris in the channels for the Phillips head, so the bit wouldn't even go in the whole way.
Seems like some carpenters are using 3" to 4"screws while reno framing walls instead of nails. With the hammer drill this has become more common. Don't know if this is a good thing but those wall studs look well secured.
I've noticed issues with big box store screws..t25..wich I use most..(homey depot)..soo I prefer the more pricey GRK..never an issue with these..
I found a brand of galvanised screws that were sloppy and would slip in the last few mm of driving, drove me nuts until I worked it out. I dont use that brand anymore.
Makita. What model is it?
ruclips.net/video/AluqSas6eyw/видео.html You described a hammer drill, not an impact driver. The impact driver imparts *rotational* impacts, not forward impacts like a hammer drill. Wikipedia says that it (impact) does both, but I've never seen this or heard of it. If there are ones like this, they aren't typical consumer impact drivers.
With that said, you're far more likely to strip or lose contact pressure with an impact driver due to the high burst of torque via the rotational hammering. I still prefer impact drivers for almost everything because of their compact size. I literally only use my drill for well, drilling and when I want to be quieter.
Slightly difficult to do the pressure tip when on a 12 by 12 pitch roof holding onto a rope fastening some roof jacks, to restore a chimney. Haha, still enjoyed the video though. Cheers!
people like to drive screws unnecessarily deep. They'll sink a screw halfway through the 2x4, or almost through a sheet of plywood so you'll never get it back out. Usually, you only need to go a 1/16 below the surface. If your boards don't suck together nicely the first time, back the screw out, and go back in.
in my experience there are actually different types of Robertson's, the ones with a crisp square edge in the bottom and the ones that are rounded over. if you are using a rounded over bit in a crisp edge screw it isn't so bad but the reverse is absolutely infuriating.
I've noticed people without experience also have pressure issues. As they drive the screw, it pulls away from the bit. If they don't learn to keep the pressure on, the head will strip. Same when removing, although it is counter-intuitive to put pressure in the opposite direction of the way you want the screw to move.
Any job opportunity in Vancouver for painter ? I want to leave from Australia 😁
For me #1 reason:
I suck at being a handyman and am not worthy to even carry your tool bag.
Is Pickwik a good substitute for the Rollgear?
One other thing can help drive screws better, especially when you only have one hand for the drill because the other one is hanging onto a ladder or some such.
When you grab the drill, choke up on the handle. Put your index finger along the side of the drill motor case, and you can use a little finger strength to help keep the drill straight. Use you _middle_ finger on the trigger, not your index finger. Your index finger is up on the drill motor, pointing at the screw.
This gets the center of your arm closer to the straight line thru the screw and screw bit, so you don't need as much wrist strength to keep the drill from flopping all around, and lets you use your whole arm to put some force behind the drill.
yes I have had scews with not to spec, heads, never had a whole box, but many with defects.
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Another Important thing is knowing the difference between similar screrw types,.
Philips and Posidrive can look the same to the uneducated and they will work with each other under low stress situations, but as soon as you start pushing it, they will slip and chew out with the wrong driver bit. The other thing if the bit does not match, the screw will not stand up on the end of the driver.
There are variations on the square and hex bits too.
Most people know that there are metric and imperial hex bits, but few know there is an obscure series of imperial hex sizes
Then there is the T27, Torks bit trap, lots of chain saws and garden equipment uses T27 screws, but a lot of Torks bit sets do not have a T27 bit, so people go at them with a T25, with unhappy results.
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Of course, there are tamperproof versions of all the bit shapes and deliberately obscure manufacturer specific driver shapes.
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OH HELL, it's all a trap for young players.
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More recently we have an issue with the quality, strength and hardness of the bits. This has been made much worse with the introduction of impact drivers.
A lot of the cheap but sets are just too soft and chew out far too easily. Some manufacturers try to harden the tips a little too much, thus they break, especially when used with impact drivers.
If you are at all serious or do any qualtity of this work you are best to buy from one of the specific specialist quality bit makers.
The power tool branded bits are best considered mid range and a fair thing for moderate use.
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Of course if you are using an impact driver especially a powerfull one, you will be wise to buy bits specifically intended for use with impact drivers.
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AND finally, always have multiple spare bits, if you don't expect to go home early.
I've had plenty of drywall screws where the Philips head wasn't cut out all the way
I buy box boxes of drywall screws and you're guaranteed to have at least a few of them where either the hole is not drilled far enough or there's something in there and your bit doesn't go in all the way.
That really depends on the producer and how cheap (expensive you;d pay for the tolerances.
@@stanimir4197 Just the standard 1 5/8s drywall screws that they sell at lowes.
I don't use a drill bit but I knew I noticed a difference in my screwdriver bits when putting on my skateboard hardware the 2 Phillips bit seem to fit it better and now I hear you saying it's actually better for regular construction no wonder my hardware never gets stripped
🤦♂ I cringe when I recall trying to drive straight slotted screws with a corded drill. It was all I had at the time. Praise Torx/ T-Star and impact drivers!
For some reason I like to use a longer bit extension. I think it helps me see what I'm doing and doesn't seem to affect the alignment of the bit and screw.
What was the name of the Square Bit? Robertson? Have never seen that before.
I know Philips (only used for drywall), Pozidrive and Torx.
Robertson is money! Torx is good but really only used in high quality deck screws or manufacturing oarts
@@Matt-my7pz what do you mean by "Robertson is money"? that they are cheap?
All screws here are Torx nowadays. used to be Pozidrive, but Torx is the common thing now.
@@jesperbech8753 I just meant that Robertson is really good for what we have here. Atleast Alberta and BC. Screwdriver sets will come with torx and Robertson Phillips and slot. But Torx isn't that common other than deck screws. It's becoming more and maybe become the standard eventually. Robertson has to really suck for anyone else who doesn't live where it's a thing. You can almost always get your hands on a Torx in a bit set.
A good Robertson bit versus a bad bit is a world of difference.
True
Worse in the UK because we have Pozi and Philips to worry about as well as size. Many people think they are more or less interchangeable but there are differences.
We have PZ in the US as well and I'm not sure what advantage they're supposed to have
I like PZ, prefer them to Philips. I'm not sure there is much of a difference in reality, just a personal thing. We've not quite embraced the Torx and similar in the UK yet.
I was going to mention this myself. That tripped me up once many years ago. Had never heard of Pozi and didn't have any bits for it. I have no idea why they were even available in Canada given the fact pretty much nobody would ever have a bit for it.
@@markbrownfield437 They don't cam out. A Phillips head is designed for less torque.
@@markbrownfield437 PZ is way better than PH. Way less camming out; harder to strip.
So length of bit tool, size and slop while driving will cause a failure? Sound like complaints from my wife...lol 😀. Seriously good topic as sometime we use what we have around and will not change the bit when needed.
I knew someone would go there soon enough.
@Vancouver Carpenter just doing what I thought I needed to do. CHEERS
Wowsers! All together now: THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!! 😁
Slot is a glorified chisel and Posidrive or Phillips are "meh" in a strong way. Ignore the fact I'm Canadian please, but all about Robertson drive.
Being an electrician I so appreciate a good screw 😳.
1) Impacts drivers (Ben is using an impact) also give a handicap or make it less likely for not skipping versus a twist drill (regular drill. Haha Ben just mentioned this.
2) I worked in a fastener store when I was young. When manufactures produce screws, the die can be either really fresh or worn out which affects how well it seats. Sometimes you can't get the screw off of the bit. Other screws are sloppy no matter if you have a brand new bit. On occasion get a batch of screws that are complete shit to fit to a driver bit. Self tapping Robertson screws seem to get this a lot. Then there is the deck screws that get filled with the green or brown coating. You can't even begin to drive it.
Grabber brand drywall screws on the other hand, with the bit provided are incredibly good!
Ben knows all this I'm just feeling like I'm part of the cool kids group.
I love good comments. Thanks🙂
I always think of Robertsons as #4 yellow, #6 green, #8 red and #10 black.
Not sure if that is just me?
You should start your own company ~ you could call it Hawk & Trowel
Sounds like the name of a British pub.
and then there was pozidriv , I have only seen that on circuit breakers , looks like a phillips but not quite.
I think the main reason is people using Phillips bits, when they should be using Pozi bits. Not sure that was mentioned?
I am surprised that few know that there is a Special bit for Coated #2 Robertson (square) Deck Screws (Approved for Pressure Treated wood) ... A Standard #2 "Robbie" will work, but the screw itself, was a #2 Before the coating was applied so the "holding power" from screw to bit is just not there. these bits are not not Typically colour coded (Green Red or Black), but rather just Steel (or Chrome). I know the screw itself is not a "Number 2" but rather a # 8 or 10 etc. the #2 referenced the slot that is used to drive the screw. Thanks for the Videos! I watch nearly all of them... and I Hate Drywall!! lol
I’ve never heard of bits for coated screws. I might have to look a little closer next time I buy some bits.
@@vancouvercarpenter Don't bother! they will be in your assortment of bits in all the places that you think that makes sense to store Bits... you will NEVER find it, and will choose the #2 Robbie Every time!
Ask me how I know!!
My teacher called it "the sound of an amateur"....😂
Ben is awesome. I wouldn't care if he's really Gary minus the r
Pro tip. Use torx whenever possible.
Torx is even worse to stripping w/ the wrong size bit. That being said: it's still the best head for wood screws (save for the hex one, driven with a proper socket)
@@stanimir4197 not sure I agree. In my experience a t-20 will work okay on a t-25 head in a pinch. And if you do manage to strip it it'll still be drivable when you get the proper T25 bit.
Hex is much less forgiving. If you strip it with an improper bit your SOL. To be fair though I don't have a ton of experience with hex.
Wiha Bits are the best
I thought this was a drywall channel hahah
Robertson screws are 2-4-6-8 & 10. I have never heard of 1-2-3. If screws and Drivers were made to Robertson's original specifications, there wouldn't be a problem.
average guy sending this to his wife
The title kind of sounds like you want to strip the screws. Have a like.
😂 I might change it.
And quickly. Lol. I still left the Like.
2:49 Sloppy screw head tolerances weren't common back in the 80's and 90's but right around the early 2000's I started to notice that Robertson #2 and some #1 and #3 heads were very poorly 'stamped'. Oddly, it was around that time that certain 'brands' decided to stop making their screws in Canada and go off shore. Make what you will of that but the quality of the bits to drive them also went down around the same time.
Oddly, right around the time that Robertson's patent expired it got even worse. Lately, it's hit and miss. I may go through several boxes of (100) screws and be fine then hit a batch (lot #) and have to return them all. Sometimes you clearly see the poor production quality so I mention it to the store department manager as a heads up but few give a crap.
Not bashing any companies or countries but just stating personal experiences. YMMV.
those are driver bits not drill bits :x and that's not a drill, it's an impact driver
Though it didn't come up in the video, those Pozi-drive screws are annoying. I find them in cabinets and door hardware. They look almost like Phillips but strip easily with a Phillips bit. Of course you're supposed to use the correct PZ driver but does the average homeowner have PZ bits handy or even know the difference?
To identify, look for the “X” marks at 45 degrees to the main cross.
I had a few Pozi sizes in a fairly consumer-grade set of bits, but never had to use them yet.
I have the perfect solution for rounded screw heads ... use a round drive bit ...
😂
You say (bags)of screws..in the states is mostly (box) of screws..unless at an independant lumber/hardware store...
We buy them by the box or bulk by the pound in a bag. In the big box stores, they are all now in boxes. Probably more where you tend to shop than a US/Can difference.
👍👍
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...and this year's winner for "most double entendres in under 10 mins" goes to...
Love the content!
Thanks Mike 🙂
A huge problem with Robbie's now a days is they're not all made exactly the same. Bits often times a few microns too large and never fully seat in the screw head. Fucking drives me bananas and you've gotta go through bits to find one that works well enough to go.
We used to use 3/4 #10 Robbie pan heads tecks for running conduit, but they're so trash now it's just easier to use a robbie for the fittings and a 5/16 headed Teck screw.
Ever had a bad batch of screws? Yeah every drywall screw sold at home depot Canada for the last few years
Agreed!!!😂
Without even watching the video, I say Dewalt bits are your number one reason for stripping a screw. They suck I bought the new and improved one supposedly around Christmas time 2022 they are the worst bits I’ve ever used i’m guessing they are the same metal they make the Black & Decker ones out of. A long time ago before I owned any tools
I bought a Black & Decker bed set and it’s about the same quality as Dewalt .
For the life of me, I hate square tipped screws. Especially the coated ones. Prefer torx all day!
Instead of using North American Phillips screwdriver bits buy a Japanese Service 1 (JS1) bit. They fit our phillips screws way better then what we commonly use. You cannot use our Phillip bits on a JS1 phillip screws.
Good video. Except for 2 points:
(1) Should've done a counter, keeping track of whenever you said "bit" or "bits" -- interesting drinking game for sure.
And (2) Everytime you said "drill bit" my OCD made me cringe.
You meant to say "driver bit" since a drill bit can only create holes (fluted, spiral, twist, spade, forstner, step for various materials of wood, metal, plastic, ceramic tile, porcelain and concrete/ masonry).
I hate when apprentices kill my bits and waste screws 🤦♂️
The kisses of death for me are over-reaching so I don't get behind the screw properly, and driving screws where there isn't enough clearance for the driver to attain property alignment... I am the height I am, so using or moving a ladder often solves the first problem. Using long bits and even extensions helps with the clearance problem. There are times, however, when using one of my ratcheting braces with a screwdriver bit comes in handy for driving large straight-slot screws as I can put weight behind it and have lots of leverage if I use a brace with a long throw. Screws have gotten crappier over the years too... something hard to tell from looking at the package and going by price has become meaningless. RE the latter, I try to buy my fasteners at a locally owned hardware store. This as for identical products they are always less expensive than the big box stores, and they are also more likely to have quality fasteners available for prices similar to the big box stores.
I avoid phillips head like the plague..unless hanging sheetrock...and hinges etc....
This must be the reason why all hinge screws on pre-hang doors are driven at unright angles (like this ruclips.net/video/Jli7JIfg0TA/видео.html). What else could that be? It's not like they don't care, right?
i have had lots of crap screws usually the junk that comes with a cabinet or hinge cheap made in China crap the good quality name brand made in America screws work a lot better and are properly hardened and rustproofed.
Some of the fine Chinese hardware is METRIC Phillips apparently (which some people never even heard of). I threw away the screws for something I bought because no matter what SAE Phillips I used they wouldn't work.
😮
Mostly witnessed by folks using “mastercraft” drills
Well, I wont say first or second, dummies.
Thanks for the video, been watching your plastering videos, as I'll be doing it very soon, first time.
Always grind the point off of #1 philips screwdriver heads. They are TOO pointy to work correctly and it seems like the manufacturers can figure that out.
You pay what you get for.