Two carpenter-y Vancouver Carpenter videos in a row? I'm gonna need to go snort some quickset to get my drywall fix... Also, CA glue and accelerator changed my life when I discovered it!
Here in AU, we have whole houses built on steel studs, frames and trusses. The big advantage here is if it is a steel frame they don't have to poison under the slab, to prevent termite dammage. Termites are a big problem here. If the Architect or builder is fussy, there is no timber used anywhere in the main structure of the house. Often the only obvious timber you will see is the front door. Often metal or plastic skirting system, or no skirting at all, there are all steel prehung door frames, all Aluminium prehung windows and other specific product for a virtually no wood construction. Here pretty much all, plasterboard is fixed with big blobs of stud adhesive and screws. The other thing I notice, we almost always have cornice (usually plain, but sometimes fancy) between the wall and ceiling, it is very unusual to see square set ceiling to wall joints.
I had no idea there were such a thing as steel studs. That seems like they would be nice to use in some applications. Thanks for the informative video!
They are almost universally used in commercial units in NA I think. Non-flammable, and won’t rot or get moldy if exposed to water. Also, can be overlapped and joined together vertically to go as high as you want. As he shows though, they don’t provide as much holding power for screws.
Saw steel studs when working on a college Physical Plant staff as a student worker years ago. They are easier to work with as far as being lighter to handle, having uniform dimensions and straightness and having pre-made cutouts to run wiring through the studs. The college used them for all kinds of partition wall work, since the building load-bearing structure was concrete. But I never did get to see doors being hung.
@@jaireidca they actually do rot (rust) when exposed to water. I've had to rebuild a few walls in commercial spaces where the bottom plate and bottom portion of studs were rusted away to nothing.
ive seen several of your drywall videos and i see you use a light to shine on the walls and was wondering which light it was, ive been using a portable halogen light but not to happy with it so was wondering which light you use. Keep up the videos ive picked up alot of tricks to add to my bag.....
You’re the only person I found on RUclips that talks about attaching wood to metal studs. WHAT SCREWS ARE YOU USING COURSE OR FINE THREAD? Could I use this same concept to mount say a tankless water heater? Thanks
Thanks as always! You are making me better at my job very quickly. Was about to ask you how you like that Milwaukee nail gun as Im in the market for one but then you said it was blowing out the trim ... haha Im gonna need a review on a ridgid, dewalt and makita ...also on Miter saws...Santa is coming
My mom is nagging me about a christmas gift list. How come you have no recommendations or affiliate links in your description?! I'm happy I watched this video but I was coming to click on your links because I love you!
I wish there was a top tools I recommend or something. But thanks for the heads up. I ended up adding a bunch of books to my wish list and a 48inch skimmer; here mom!@@Tekagi
I really appreciate your desire to support my endeavours. I don’t put links in every video. I probably should. I would earn a little more but I don’t like feeling like I’m always grinding subs for a sale. However, if you go through one of the links in any of my videos and make any purchase on Amazon I get the commission. It could be anything in your cart. It only matters that you were directed to Amazon through the link. When I look at my Amazon associate page and look at what I’ve gotten commission for it’s all kinds of things. Underwear, dog food etc. Now you know😂
Hello VC. Nice work as always. The extra touchup by the painter might be caused by holding that nail gun at the angle, so it's not flush to the work and bouncing very slightly. I thought they made those steel studs in two grades: one for partition walls, and one for exterior. If yes, could the heavy-grade ones be used to frame the doorways, since they would hold the hinge screws?
Considering using steel studs, sideways, in one of my shop walls so that I can install a pocket door without too much thickness but also retaining some rigidity in the wall. Like the pocket door concept for some applications just don’t like the flimsy walls.
Great info. as always Ben. I saw this discussion on another channel. You made it nice, simple & easy. Just the way I like it. Getting too damn old to deal with complicated !! lol
Most commercial guys frame their R/O wider and screw a piece of 3/4 plywood from the front, cover with drywall for fire code, from what ive ran into here (fixing their door install issues lol)
Instead of adding the wood to the steel stud - replace it. Do the steel studs on your 45s (or what ever stud gap you got), but at the door openings, frame the studs with 2x4s? Then you dont need to do any extra calculations. I am probably missing smt, but thats how I would do it.
I second the other 2 comments and in addition trying to fasten a 2x anything as a door opening without the steel studs to assist, would be a total PIA.
I would definitely use some PL if I were to screw the wood to the outside of the steel stud. Otherwise you're relying purely on the sheer strength of the screws. Just a little more insurance for your door!
@@Tekagi all he really has to do is demo a wall that's put together with screws. And God help you if you run across any baseboard that is installed with finish screws attached to the studs. Better have a Sawzall hand y.
May sure you your door system doesnt require sheetrock wrap for fire code or you ffffd. I waiting to get paid on a mid rise apartment job and then im going to have my fire marshal tag the building.
Metal jambs fastened to floor with webbed corners and push screws on top, for metal studs. You slipped wallboard behind jambs. No wood allowed for fire codes, exceptions for mechanical blocking and must be fire treated ( pink ). Cove molding ( vinyl glued ) was typical base. If other items was glued and minimal finish head screws to studs or track.
I noticed that, too. The client, I suspected, that real wood cost more & wanted pressed board / cardboard for trim.. I know Ben would use real wood if he had the choice.
This was the second full length video I filmed that day. The first was the door hanging video and it totally drained me. In spite of the imperfections in the video there is still useful info that will help people get their jobs done so it will stay up.
Хобби
We generally run into steel studs on commercial job sites that dont allow you to use wood unless the wood is fire treated wood which is a bit pricey.
Two carpenter-y Vancouver Carpenter videos in a row? I'm gonna need to go snort some quickset to get my drywall fix...
Also, CA glue and accelerator changed my life when I discovered it!
Here in AU, we have whole houses built on steel studs, frames and trusses.
The big advantage here is if it is a steel frame they don't have to poison under the slab, to prevent termite dammage. Termites are a big problem here.
If the Architect or builder is fussy, there is no timber used anywhere in the main structure of the house.
Often the only obvious timber you will see is the front door.
Often metal or plastic skirting system, or no skirting at all, there are all steel prehung door frames, all Aluminium prehung windows and other specific product for a virtually no wood construction.
Here pretty much all, plasterboard is fixed with big blobs of stud adhesive and screws.
The other thing I notice, we almost always have cornice (usually plain, but sometimes fancy) between the wall and ceiling, it is very unusual to see square set ceiling to wall joints.
Its been a long time since I worked with steel studs, but if I recall, 2X3's fit inside perfectly and then you have a decent frame to fasten onto.
They do
I was just gonna say I've done the same thing lol
I had no idea there were such a thing as steel studs. That seems like they would be nice to use in some applications. Thanks for the informative video!
They are almost universally used in commercial units in NA I think. Non-flammable, and won’t rot or get moldy if exposed to water. Also, can be overlapped and joined together vertically to go as high as you want. As he shows though, they don’t provide as much holding power for screws.
Almost all office and commercial buildings are steel studs.
The thicker ones do but they aren’t fun to work with. Can’t nail into them though that’s for sure.
Saw steel studs when working on a college Physical Plant staff as a student worker years ago. They are easier to work with as far as being lighter to handle, having uniform dimensions and straightness and having pre-made cutouts to run wiring through the studs. The college used them for all kinds of partition wall work, since the building load-bearing structure was concrete. But I never did get to see doors being hung.
@@jaireidca they actually do rot (rust) when exposed to water. I've had to rebuild a few walls in commercial spaces where the bottom plate and bottom portion of studs were rusted away to nothing.
To make it simple, you use the steel for the king stud and wood for the jack studs. When you do the header you would account for the difference.
Love the sound of the milwaukee nailer
I wanna see you skate again.
ive seen several of your drywall videos and i see you use a light to shine on the walls and was wondering which light it was, ive been using a portable halogen light but not to happy with it so was wondering which light you use. Keep up the videos ive picked up alot of tricks to add to my bag.....
I use PL Premium for sistering and for any high strength needs. But I have found that PVA is pretty strong too for general purposes
You’re the only person I found on RUclips that talks about attaching wood to metal studs. WHAT SCREWS ARE YOU USING COURSE OR FINE THREAD? Could I use this same concept to mount say a tankless water heater? Thanks
Thank you, you are so passionate / pro
Thanks as always! You are making me better at my job very quickly. Was about to ask you how you like that Milwaukee nail gun as Im in the market for one but then you said it was blowing out the trim ... haha Im gonna need a review on a ridgid, dewalt and makita ...also on Miter saws...Santa is coming
Milwaukee nail gun 18g , i really love Them , i recommend it
My mom is nagging me about a christmas gift list.
How come you have no recommendations or affiliate links in your description?!
I'm happy I watched this video but I was coming to click on your links because I love you!
I wish there was a top tools I recommend or something. But thanks for the heads up. I ended up adding a bunch of books to my wish list and a 48inch skimmer; here mom!@@Tekagi
😂
I really appreciate your desire to support my endeavours. I don’t put links in every video. I probably should. I would earn a little more but I don’t like feeling like I’m always grinding subs for a sale. However, if you go through one of the links in any of my videos and make any purchase on Amazon I get the commission. It could be anything in your cart. It only matters that you were directed to Amazon through the link. When I look at my Amazon associate page and look at what I’ve gotten commission for it’s all kinds of things. Underwear, dog food etc. Now you know😂
Hey Ben, how do you like that Milwaukee trim nailer? Thinking about getting one.
Hello VC. Nice work as always. The extra touchup by the painter might be caused by holding that nail gun at the angle, so it's not flush to the work and bouncing very slightly. I thought they made those steel studs in two grades: one for partition walls, and one for exterior. If yes, could the heavy-grade ones be used to frame the doorways, since they would hold the hinge screws?
You could use the heavy ones but they suck to fasten to. Still easiest to just add the 1x3
@@vancouvercarpenter I see; thanks VC.
Considering using steel studs, sideways, in one of my shop walls so that I can install a pocket door without too much thickness but also retaining some rigidity in the wall. Like the pocket door concept for some applications just don’t like the flimsy walls.
Great info. as always Ben. I saw this discussion on another channel. You made it nice, simple & easy. Just the way I like it. Getting too damn old to deal with complicated !! lol
Could this hold a solid wood door?
That’s the way they do it in the states typically. The second method you showed
I realize Ive watched hours of your videos as I learn how to drywall and Ive never actually seen any carpentry being done 😂
Always called it a butterfly nail.
👍👍
those modern jambs are kinda hot
Why don't you use reinforced steel studs (2mm thick)?
Not necessary for your basic interior wall.
The love of CA glue - the performance or the smell or do I dare say both?
I don’t like the smell at all. I like how easy it is.
Some electrician in the future is gonna try to pull off base boards to run romex and the adhesive is gonna be a struggle.
Most commercial guys frame their R/O wider and screw a piece of 3/4 plywood from the front, cover with drywall for fire code, from what ive ran into here (fixing their door install issues lol)
PL 375 does not expand and push your jam board off whereas 400 does or premium !
Instead of adding the wood to the steel stud - replace it. Do the steel studs on your 45s (or what ever stud gap you got), but at the door openings, frame the studs with 2x4s? Then you dont need to do any extra calculations. I am probably missing smt, but thats how I would do it.
They don’t measure 3.5. They measure 3.625.
The channels are 1/8” larger
I second the other 2 comments and in addition trying to fasten a 2x anything as a door opening without the steel studs to assist, would be a total PIA.
🙏👏👍💪
Glue!
I would definitely use some PL if I were to screw the wood to the outside of the steel stud. Otherwise you're relying purely on the sheer strength of the screws. Just a little more insurance for your door!
@@Tekagi all he really has to do is demo a wall that's put together with screws. And God help you if you run across any baseboard that is installed with finish screws attached to the studs. Better have a Sawzall hand y.
It looks like your nailer lost the nose piece, which is why it was blowing monster holes in the trim.
It was just the angle. My other gun can handle nailing at an angle without the blowouts.
no mud? (just kidding, great tips)
There are doors with flanges specifically for steel stud construction.
not everyone wants knock down commercial doors in their apartments though.
No they are three jambs that you put casing over. Im installing some knock downs
Vancouver carpenter what does a person get paid to.start out in the drywall bussines green guy
Wait a minute... don't you skate?
Ryobi nailer is far superior homie
May sure you your door system doesnt require sheetrock wrap for fire code or you ffffd. I waiting to get paid on a mid rise apartment job and then im going to have my fire marshal tag the building.
Metal jambs fastened to floor with webbed corners and push screws on top, for metal studs. You slipped wallboard behind jambs. No wood allowed for fire codes, exceptions for mechanical blocking and must be fire treated ( pink ). Cove molding ( vinyl glued ) was typical base. If other items was glued and minimal finish head screws to studs or track.
The nail gun is for wood, not cardboard. Or maybe there is a special nail...
I noticed that, too. The client, I suspected, that real wood cost more & wanted pressed board / cardboard for trim.. I know Ben would use real wood if he had the choice.
This is easy, use metal studs only for partition walls, and then you won't need to put a door on them.
You're getting old Ben, them videos are getting sloppier.
This was the second full length video I filmed that day. The first was the door hanging video and it totally drained me. In spite of the imperfections in the video there is still useful info that will help people get their jobs done so it will stay up.