another tip that isnt really for the framing itself. buy colored sharpies. black ones run out one week after u buy it. had a green one for like half a year and the only reason i chucked it was bc the felt tip was mangled. still worked if u used it at a 90 degree angle tho LOL
Thanks it's been a long time that ice done metal studs 1985 to b exact . Thanks for the glad back I was hearing the plumbers , electricians ,drywallers as I was watching the video. Good memories to cherish of all those hard working people.
Rough opening for knockdown frames are the door size plus 1” on each side. It is for a knockdown frame. I typically have a rough opening at 40 1/4” For a 36” door to get a welded frame .
GREAT JOB BROTHER!!!! 🙌🙌🎉🎉Taking time and teaching apprentices even off the job. Sometimes we don't always have the extra time on the jobsite, thank you brother!!!
Charles Wallin You’re welcome and... Thank you. This was just for an assignment to start with. There are hundreds of lessons like this in carpenters apprenticeship training centers all around the country and Canada! Check one out!
Interesting! I've been seeing them drawn on plans using the top track of the box turned in towards the centre of the box and a third track on top facing upwards to receive the studs above (e.g. you use 3 tracks.) But your method of upturning the top track of the box, actually saves one track (using only 2 tracks) plus a little less labour. That's pretty neat
Good job brother nice to see someone out there that knows what he's doing. Been framing myself for 20 years. I got my Contractors License C9 now .But this brings me back good memories
@@JohnSmendrovac I'm actually getting my General B license now so yeah it is nothing to just have a C9. But that's why you gotta keep feeding your mind. I don't look at the years anymore. I look at all the trades now and you should know it's a whole nother level to be a General B.
These are all non load bearing walls. The header in this video is for the purpose of carrying the weight of the door. And is attached to 2 king studs as opposed to being supported by trimmers in wood framing. Usually you'll have a Hvac return at the top of the door. Depending on your cubic feet of air and square footage of occupation people per room will depend on your BTU cubic feet of air youll have a minimum of 70 square feet per room according to CBC.The Interrior door will have 2 hinges and an 1/2" threshold minimum ADA requirements,weather striping would be for exterior doors with 1/2" threshold for ADA and a fire solid doors 1 3/8" thick solid with 1/2" at the bottom of the the door between the finish floor.The door in this video would be a 3'0 wich is a minimum ADA compliant for someone with a disability and the opening would be 37 1/2" Timely door.This as opposed to a residential Interrior door wich also has 2 hinges. Exterior doors have usually 3 hinges and are considered 20 minute fire doors and usually solid. In wood framing the header would be there to actually hold the weight of the floor or joists, trusses, ect above it. And also in wood the trimmer studs would hold the weight of the header wich for a 3'0 opening would get a double 4x4 header. This type of framing though is considered a finish stick framing made from galvanized steel wich is more expensive and doesn't burn or rot as the wood studs would.Usually you frame these walls standing up as opposed to framing flat on the floor. The down side is it only acts as a partitions and not as strong as a bearing wall and it's used for tenant improvement. Usually 20 guage galvanized steel it can be 16 or 24 on center with drywall pannels 4x8 or higher screwd off at 12 in field and 8 in perimeter depending on the fire rating and if it acts as a fire wall.If it's not fire rated you can go 12" screw offs in perimeter these dry wall panels get 1-1/4" screws. Usually the insulation is R22 for a fire rating hence the R value in it. The Taping usually a level 5 the first being a joint compound with a fire retarder adhesive and tape over joints. Mainly the attachments for these walls are found in your Structural blue prints. And would be 45 degrees angle bracing attached to a metal decking. And the anchor pins would be a minimum of spacing of 16" inches depending on the plans. Anchor bolts in bearing walls are usually a minimum of every 6 inches.These walls are all anchored with a powder actuated tools. But see now giving you too much game bro. I could go on and on schooling you but the game is to be sold not told.Oh but I will just add on more thing you'll have a light switch 48" from the floor right beside the door. Usually the AWG would be a Metallic Tubing or S4 box. Usually 14 guage wire @120 volts and 15 amps. Depending on your outlets in the room you'll they'll be 18" off the floor and a minimum of 12' apart in spacing. With one of the outlets being 24" away from the wall. Usually they are would be @ 8 Ohms for resistance value 120 divided by 15 =8. If it's a bathroom it will have a minimum of 40 lumens of light. And the water closet will have a minimum of 2" vent. For your sinks if it's a handy cap ADA sink it will be 34 " off the floor with lever faucets and wrapped pipes underneath. And the water closet would have a minimum of 48" from toilet to the sink and a minimum of 12" x 18" from a corner wall.. Oh and last but not least your drywall is a Green board in bathrooms. If your going to be installing tile you'll most likely use dureock with a thin set for joints. The tile wich you don't need an inspection unless you have 2500 psi only in concreat and you would need a slump test for slab.Morter has a minimum of 2000 psi. The bathroom also has to have a fart fan to remove condensation and moisture. And it's usually connected to the light switch only in bathrooms were there is a shower.
@@JohnSmendrovac I wrote the following passage for you since you think you need 40 years to do metal framing and drywall. So feel free to tell me your thoughts on what I wrote. And let me know if you think I'm qualified enough after only 20 years and not 40.
Amazing! I learned so much from your thorough instruction. I just completed a small project by using what I watched and I hope you're still in the instruction business, well done. If you can stomach a Lions game in the flesh you've earned some beers on me. S.Rush
Enjoyed the video Jose. I'm just a DIY kinda guy and am in need of exactly this instruction for a pantry door addition in a wall. The flimsy single 2x4 header was concerning me even though this will just be a cheap-o 28x80 door. I like the box header concept for this remodel so thank you for posting.
@@luisechevarria6930 thanks for the warning. I misspoke in my comment when I said 2x4. This is a 100% steel stud configuration I'm working with. I ended up just doing a standard steel header using c channel and I bent a 9in section to screw in vertically. So basically the header looks like a large letter u with nine in legs left and right side screwed into the vertical left and right framing supports.
I found it a lil faster when cutting my studs to place my speed or pocket square where I intend to cut and score it with my razor knife along the edge of my square rather than marking it and cut both sides and a good fold gives you a nice clean straight cut. Nice work good video gotta say I never knew your studs above the header were called cripple studs.thanx for sharing
Thank you very much! This was just an assignment as a new instructor. Please look into getting into one of our carpenter apprenticeship schools in your area.
Starting a metal framing job soon. Every time he threw a trash piece of metal stud on the ground I though “I’m going to be the guy who has to pick that up later.” 😂
I wanted to see you set the cripples in. I have never worked with metal framing but have a small job using metal studs. Are there specific screws to be used for metal framing? Good video. Learned a lot. Do some more vids and teach us the tricks. There are always tricks and tips. I am an old guy and it is nice to learn things from the younger guys in the trades.
Nice job Sanchez, The only thing I would recommend to you is that go to a plastic square you eliminate all the noise. I see you don't have any ear plugs in so safety first
yes you can have the box header facing down. I typically face it down when i have a long run that the studs cannot go from the floor to the ceiling. ie. ductwork
awesome tutorial Jose! The standard method seems weak for a load bearing wall. Your box frame method is much better. I would be incline to get some 8" or 6" studs for the box header. Overkill?
Not sure if you read these @ j sanchez, but I'm a metal framing apprentice and would kill to have a teacher like you. It's a shame you don't have your own channel.
sonic198310 Wow! Thank you! That really means a lot to me! This was just for an assignment I had to do during my first year of instructing. I haven’t found time to be able to do any others. Please look into the United brotherhood of carpenters apprenticeship around your area. There are some great instructors in our organization
Great video . Have you ever tried using the red handle Midwest snips? I as well used to use the yellow snips. Until I tried the Midwest red handle. Truly best snips out for metal stud framing
J Marco Thank you. I haven’t seen metal stud punches in years. Probably because of local codes. If the code around your area says stud punches are ok to use, I would drywall it immediately. If you plan on using screws there would be no reason to use a punch as well. That would be my opinion. Have a nice day
Do yourselves a favor, if you're using a laser, then use it...why mark all the way around the stud...set your laser from the start 1" lower then your desired height, this way the laser won't refract off the header and you can just measure down an inch all around, will help with soffit layout as well going foward...also, yeah always wear gloves when working with metal
I am looking to build a header for a tiled wall that protrudes out from an existing fireplace wall. Do you think a 25 gauge box header with a 3’-6” opening with the rest of the wall above the header being 4’6”. We plan to install 1/2” cement board to the metal framing. Or is there a link of more detailed info that you could send? Thanks!
faster way to cut ur track just take ur speed square on the lip side of the track use ur snips cut. fold over then measure ur number then measure 2 or 3 inches and cut. take ur speed square cut the track then cut ur measurement and fold up faster then marking it with a marker.
Benjamin Mensah usually you tack them down with a powder actuated tool (shotgun)using concrete pins. Sometimes it calls for anchor bolts. Screws used for cramming are either number ten or eight pan heads
Please drill and use Tapcon screws or something similar to this to fasten your door frame. Don't listen to people saying to shoot it down with pins. They are no where near as solid.
Great vid even if it’s not a load would inspector s would like to see the box instead of just a traditional track above door I like the box it looks more professional
Michael Jordan They do make a ring shank nail applied with a gas/spark charged gun. They also make self tapping screws with small wings on them to bore through the plywood
Hey Michael. In normal circumstances you don't use light gauge metal for exterior wall (It's not recommended). If you use heavy gauge studs you can hang plywood in the same way you hang Densglass (Using silver screws). It's not necessary to use washers or any special attachment . Best regards!
Hey José cuál es la manera correcta de hacer un soffit porque muchos fraimeros dejan pasados los studs y después los cortan o es mejor tomar una sólo medida y ir poniendo uno ala mitad y sacar nivel?
Luis. when I build soffits, I cut a common stud length past my rough framing Line. Next, I attach a stiff back (a horizontal stud attached to the back of the soffit) to hold my layout of my vertical studs. After all studs are hanging on layout, I set up a laser to the rough framing line and cut the studs just short of that line.
Hola Luis. No existe un "metodo" correcto como tal. Puedes colocar tu laser a la altura indicada y una vez que hagas tu layout en el track superior vas midiendo con el tape la distancia desde el track hasta la linea del laser y vas cortando tus metales (Recuerda que debes cortarlos 1/8 o 1/4 de pulgada mas pequenos que la distancia que mediste porque al colocar el track inferior la distancia aumenta un poco. Tambien puedes ponerlos todos un poco mas largos que la medida del laser y al final cortas cada uno a la medida deseada. Ambos metodos funcionan. Saludos!
another tip that isnt really for the framing itself. buy colored sharpies. black ones run out one week after u buy it. had a green one for like half a year and the only reason i chucked it was bc the felt tip was mangled. still worked if u used it at a 90 degree angle tho LOL
Derrick Makara
Good point
Thanks it's been a long time that ice done metal studs 1985 to b exact . Thanks for the glad back I was hearing the plumbers , electricians ,drywallers as I was watching the video. Good memories to cherish of all those hard working people.
I've been curious about metal framing for a while, glad I finally thought to look it up on RUclips.
Rough opening for knockdown frames are the door size plus 1” on each side. It is for a knockdown frame. I typically have a rough opening at 40 1/4” For a 36” door to get a welded frame .
Wish you were in London, UK for work! Fast high quality work done to a great standard and no cutting corners! Excellent video thank you!
FiscalWoofer
Thank you!
That is just one of the lessons we offer as union carpenters in the states
Nice Job! we need more videos like this... that shows an explicit way of making a box header.
My watsapp 00966551370576
I would love to see more of these videos - and closeups of how the joists and joins look!
Check this video out ruclips.net/video/s7Fd1zFCjws/видео.html
A good video, wouldn't mind to see the earlier videos when you started the metal stud construction to learn more of your awesome tips.
Get a job and learn. You can't learn a trade on RUclips
Thanks for sharing ! Great review for anyone before getting a project done
Great Job! I’m doing that now at my job site! Also Heavy Gauge Exterior! Finally I feel like a
Journeyman! Lol! Stay safe & good video!
GREAT JOB BROTHER!!!! 🙌🙌🎉🎉Taking time and teaching apprentices even off the job. Sometimes we don't always have the extra time on the jobsite, thank you brother!!!
Glad someone appreciates him selling out our trade. Not really.
Thank you for teaching this. Awesome job.
Charles Wallin
You’re welcome and...
Thank you. This was just for an assignment to start with. There are hundreds of lessons like this in carpenters apprenticeship training centers all around the country and Canada!
Check one out!
Interesting! I've been seeing them drawn on plans using the top track of the box turned in towards the centre of the box and a third track on top facing upwards to receive the studs above (e.g. you use 3 tracks.)
But your method of upturning the top track of the box, actually saves one track (using only 2 tracks) plus a little less labour. That's pretty neat
Both ways are correct 3 tracks is obviously sturdier make sure to check the framing details it will specify whether to use 2 or 3 pieces
Sometimes 3 tracks for structural if it's spec'ed that way but I've done both.
Interior you don't have to really.
Those screws will hold the weight more than the header itself as it has no jack stud supporting the header.
Good job brother nice to see someone out there that knows what he's doing. Been framing myself for 20 years. I got my Contractors License C9 now .But this brings me back good memories
20 years is nothing that's just the beginning u need 45 years before you are really good 👍
@@JohnSmendrovac I'm actually getting my General B license now so yeah it is nothing to just have a C9. But that's why you gotta keep feeding your mind. I don't look at the years anymore. I look at all the trades now and you should know it's a whole nother level to be a General B.
These are all non load bearing walls. The header in this video is for the purpose of carrying the weight of the door. And is attached to 2 king studs as opposed to being supported by trimmers in wood framing. Usually you'll have a Hvac return at the top of the door. Depending on your cubic feet of air and square footage of occupation people per room will depend on your BTU cubic feet of air youll have a minimum of 70 square feet per room according to CBC.The Interrior door will have 2 hinges and an 1/2" threshold minimum ADA requirements,weather striping would be for exterior doors with 1/2" threshold for ADA and a fire solid doors 1 3/8" thick solid with 1/2" at the bottom of the the door between the finish floor.The door in this video would be a 3'0 wich is a minimum ADA compliant for someone with a disability and the opening would be 37 1/2" Timely door.This as opposed to a residential Interrior door wich also has 2 hinges. Exterior doors have usually 3 hinges and are considered 20 minute fire doors and usually solid. In wood framing the header would be there to actually hold the weight of the floor or joists, trusses, ect above it. And also in wood the trimmer studs would hold the weight of the header wich for a 3'0 opening would get a double 4x4 header. This type of framing though is considered a finish stick framing made from galvanized steel wich is more expensive and doesn't burn or rot as the wood studs would.Usually you frame these walls standing up as opposed to framing flat on the floor. The down side is it only acts as a partitions and not as strong as a bearing wall and it's used for tenant improvement. Usually 20 guage galvanized steel it can be 16 or 24 on center with drywall pannels 4x8 or higher screwd off at 12 in field and 8 in perimeter depending on the fire rating and if it acts as a fire wall.If it's not fire rated you can go 12" screw offs in perimeter these dry wall panels get 1-1/4" screws. Usually the insulation is R22 for a fire rating hence the R value in it. The Taping usually a level 5 the first being a joint compound with a fire retarder adhesive and tape over joints. Mainly the attachments for these walls are found in your Structural blue prints. And would be 45 degrees angle bracing attached to a metal decking. And the anchor pins would be a minimum of spacing of 16" inches depending on the plans. Anchor bolts in bearing walls are usually a minimum of every 6 inches.These walls are all anchored with a powder actuated tools. But see now giving you too much game bro. I could go on and on schooling you but the game is to be sold not told.Oh but I will just add on more thing you'll have a light switch 48" from the floor right beside the door. Usually the AWG would be a Metallic Tubing or S4 box. Usually 14 guage wire @120 volts and 15 amps. Depending on your outlets in the room you'll they'll be 18" off the floor and a minimum of 12' apart in spacing. With one of the outlets being 24" away from the wall. Usually they are would be @ 8 Ohms for resistance value 120 divided by 15 =8. If it's a bathroom it will have a minimum of 40 lumens of light. And the water closet will have a minimum of 2" vent. For your sinks if it's a handy cap ADA sink it will be 34 " off the floor with lever faucets and wrapped pipes underneath. And the water closet would have a minimum of 48" from toilet to the sink and a minimum of 12" x 18" from a corner wall.. Oh and last but not least your drywall is a Green board in bathrooms. If your going to be installing tile you'll most likely use dureock with a thin set for joints. The tile wich you don't need an inspection unless you have 2500 psi only in concreat and you would need a slump test for slab.Morter has a minimum of 2000 psi. The bathroom also has to have a fart fan to remove condensation and moisture. And it's usually connected to the light switch only in bathrooms were there is a shower.
@@JohnSmendrovac I wrote the following passage for you since you think you need 40 years to do metal framing and drywall. So feel free to tell me your thoughts on what I wrote. And let me know if you think I'm qualified enough after only 20 years and not 40.
Awesome job, thanks for sharing
Amazing! I learned so much from your thorough instruction. I just completed a small project by using what I watched and I hope you're still in the instruction business, well done. If you can stomach a Lions game in the flesh you've earned some beers on me. S.Rush
Enjoyed the video Jose. I'm just a DIY kinda guy and am in need of exactly this instruction for a pantry door addition in a wall. The flimsy single 2x4 header was concerning me even though this will just be a cheap-o 28x80 door. I like the box header concept for this remodel so thank you for posting.
NO DONT USE BOX HEADER FOR WOOD FRAMING JUST USE 5/8 PLYWOOD AND SANDWICH WITH 2X8
@@luisechevarria6930 thanks for the warning. I misspoke in my comment when I said 2x4. This is a 100% steel stud configuration I'm working with. I ended up just doing a standard steel header using c channel and I bent a 9in section to screw in vertically. So basically the header looks like a large letter u with nine in legs left and right side screwed into the vertical left and right framing supports.
@@AndTodaysProjectIs ohhhh ok brother then u good sounds like a beautiful job thoe 👌
You are the best, no doubt .
I found it a lil faster when cutting my studs to place my speed or pocket square where I intend to cut and score it with my razor knife along the edge of my square rather than marking it and cut both sides and a good fold gives you a nice clean straight cut. Nice work good video gotta say I never knew your studs above the header were called cripple studs.thanx for sharing
No. Dont ever score it first. Just get a better pair of snips or better cutting technique.
That's a technique used for cutting heavier gauge studs if you don't have a saw with you.
Under a window sill are cripples also ...
Great job
Good job
Nicely done. I took classes at the Elk Grove training center. Pro classes taught by the Pro!
Charles Pelton
Thank you! We keep getting better each day brother!
Excellent... thanks for that.
Nice josé we need more videos about layout
thank you, I'll try. Extremely busy with the school. I'll have more in the future though
Good class! Thanks!
Please post more videos, you’re very informative and professional
Thank you very much! This was just an assignment as a new instructor. Please look into getting into one of our carpenter apprenticeship schools in your area.
@@jsanchez3162 are you from new York if so can you message me back thanks buddy
Starting a metal framing job soon. Every time he threw a trash piece of metal stud on the ground I though “I’m going to be the guy who has to pick that up later.” 😂
Lmfao so ur labor?
An outstanding craftsman.
thank you!
I'm union carpenter with 1319. You shud show more videos of metal stud framing. Brotherhood.
Milton Deal
Hopefully others will join apprenticeships all around the country to get hundreds of more lessons like this
Local 1004
Well done
I wanted to see you set the cripples in. I have never worked with metal framing but have a small job using metal studs. Are there specific screws to be used for metal framing? Good video. Learned a lot. Do some more vids and teach us the tricks. There are always tricks and tips. I am an old guy and it is nice to learn things from the younger guys in the trades.
Metal framing screws sir
Use pan or wafer head screws; Self tapping if using 20 gauge metal or thicker.
Sanchez thanks u very much for classes God bless you
Good instructional video. If I was you I’d toss those Wiss snips into the dumpster and get Midwest bullnose Lefts or straights.
Nice job Sanchez,
The only thing I would recommend to you is that go to a plastic square you eliminate all the noise. I see you don't have any ear plugs in so safety first
Thanks great video
thank you!
Good idea
Good video thanks
great video man
Nice job confidence shows in this video!
thank you!
damn you only have the one video : /
i was ready to watch the whole process from the beginning.
Thanks for the tip 👍👍
Great video. I subscribed to your channel. Pls post a video of building a shed floor from using steel instead of wood.
With steel you need a steel frame or plywood over the trusts in order for you to actually do metal floor
Damn good job sir thank you
Great video! Personal technique and craftmanship! Can top track for the boxed header be facing downward?
yes you can have the box header facing down. I typically face it down when i have a long run that the studs cannot go from the floor to the ceiling. ie. ductwork
it has been hard to get into framing class at the hall to learn this stuff, thank you very much and much love from UBC local 50
Cool video bro,
Ray Martinez
Thank you
Niiice 👍
Local 279 apprentice here, dope vid man
Jose Rodriguez
Appreciate the comment brother!
Will you be making more videos?
awesome tutorial Jose! The standard method seems weak for a load bearing wall. Your box frame method is much better. I would be incline to get some 8" or 6" studs for the box header. Overkill?
Michael Walling
I would just use a heavier gauge stud if needed. Usually exterior walls will be heavy gauge 6”
Good job Sir.
Oscar Gonzalez
Thank you
Not sure if you read these @ j sanchez, but I'm a metal framing apprentice and would kill to have a teacher like you. It's a shame you don't have your own channel.
sonic198310
Wow! Thank you! That really means a lot to me! This was just for an assignment I had to do during my first year of instructing. I haven’t found time to be able to do any others.
Please look into the United brotherhood of carpenters apprenticeship around your area. There are some great instructors in our organization
Great video . Have you ever tried using the red handle Midwest snips? I as well used to use the yellow snips. Until I tried the Midwest red handle. Truly best snips out for metal stud framing
Oh 510
I have used different types of snips over the years. Yellow Wiss work the best for me
Midwest snips are like the craftsmen ones, trash
UNION pride NYC District 157.......work proud and safe and learn and master ur trade heavy gauge metal is what I learn and love
You are the king of stud
Excellent video, what is your opinion on metal stud punches? Are screws required when using a stud punch?
J Marco
Thank you. I haven’t seen metal stud punches in years. Probably because of local codes. If the code around your area says stud punches are ok to use, I would drywall it immediately. If you plan on using screws there would be no reason to use a punch as well. That would be my opinion. Have a nice day
thank you and good question
Thanks much 👊
I'll be using metal for my house from now on, all the woods at my local store are crooked, so sick of dealing with bent and twisted lumber.
Ey José wich of sniip cutters SIDE You use the most?
That makes a stout header!!
Hi there brother should continue these videos for reference other installation
You could still have put a shoe on the bottom track to give it a bit more strength.
This is an excellent tutorial.
Lei Chen
Thank you
@@jsanchez3162 it would be great if you can share more metal stud framing videos.
LAKEWOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD !
What type and brand of clamps did you use. Now I know what a box header is. Great video.
Milwaukee is the brand that I like to use for metal framing clamps.
Hey man thanks for vid, Does metal framing not have to span from structure to structure?
Definitely. Everything will span at certain point. Please look up heights limiting for metal studs on google.
Holy swears this vid is useful
thank you, I try
Sir you should post most great vid
Rodrigo Lopez
Thank you. It was originally intended for an assignment that I had.
Thanks, mate
Thanks J
Would like to see how you put your metal roof together
Very informative and please adjust the camera vantage point. Your current video is very difficult to see from here, let the camera man follow you..
Exceptionally well done. Who is a good supplier of metal studs and track in central PA?
Thank you! Any drywall supply yard would work. I am from Michigan though.
@@jsanchez3162 Thank you and keep up the outstanding work.
Do yourselves a favor, if you're using a laser, then use it...why mark all the way around the stud...set your laser from the start 1" lower then your desired height, this way the laser won't refract off the header and you can just measure down an inch all around, will help with soffit layout as well going foward...also, yeah always wear gloves when working with metal
Dude where is the start of the build? Good work.
Chris Smith thank you.
This was just an assignment of mine.
es lo mismo en heavy gauge metal?
hey brother! local 630 here
Just curious was that opening for a welded or a knock down frame?
Nock down
Sir, do you put timber inside those 2 studs door opening or just studs alone? I’ve noticed that u used 2 metal studs, am i right?
joe marie
Just metal if I am using a hollow metal frame. If I were to put a wood frame in, I would line it with 2x material
where did you get those clamps ??????
How big of an opening can you have in a non load bearing partition wall with those metal studs? With 6' of drywall above the opening.
That is why you need the cripples the cripples are so the joint of the drywall don't overlap or look loose so inspection won't fuq
@@luisechevarria6930 @Aaron Singer Did you ever get an answer? It looks like some responses were deleted.
Local 805 gold coast carpenters all day
I am looking to build a header for a tiled wall that protrudes out from an existing fireplace wall. Do you think a 25 gauge box header with a 3’-6” opening with the rest of the wall above the header being 4’6”. We plan to install 1/2” cement board to the metal framing. Or is there a link of more detailed info that you could send? Thanks!
Use 20ga metal stud to be safe.
Are those 20 Gauge studs?
The lack of gloves is troublesome, but great vid
faster way to cut ur track just take ur speed square on the lip side of the track use ur snips cut. fold over then measure ur number then measure 2 or 3 inches and cut. take ur speed square cut the track then cut ur measurement and fold up faster then marking it with a marker.
That doesnt sound that much faster
What do you use to screw metal frame into the concrete floor? and what screw do you use to screw the frames in general?
Benjamin Mensah usually you tack them down with a powder actuated tool (shotgun)using concrete pins. Sometimes it calls for anchor bolts.
Screws used for cramming are either number ten or eight pan heads
U can use mushrooms ..
hilti 351 0r Trac fast
Please drill and use Tapcon screws or something similar to this to fasten your door frame. Don't listen to people saying to shoot it down with pins. They are no where near as solid.
Great vid even if it’s not a load would inspector s would like to see the box instead of just a traditional track above door I like the box it looks more professional
This guy needs a lesson himself
😆
Could this framing hold up a concrete counter top ?
J M
I wouldn’t advise it. If you really want to, I would use heavy gauge studs , (10-14 gauge)
Say brother , Local 424 here
If this was an exterior wall, how do you attach plywood? Use ring shank nails like for wood studs?
Michael Jordan
They do make a ring shank nail applied with a gas/spark charged gun. They also make self tapping screws with small wings on them to bore through the plywood
Hey Michael. In normal circumstances you don't use light gauge metal for exterior wall (It's not recommended). If you use heavy gauge studs you can hang plywood in the same way you hang Densglass (Using silver screws). It's not necessary to use washers or any special attachment . Best regards!
Instead of cutting tongues we use 4 clips to hold up the box header
Hey José cuál es la manera correcta de hacer un soffit porque muchos fraimeros dejan pasados los studs y después los cortan o es mejor tomar una sólo medida y ir poniendo uno ala mitad y sacar nivel?
Luis. when I build soffits, I cut a common stud length past my rough framing Line. Next, I attach a stiff back (a horizontal stud attached to the back of the soffit) to hold my layout of my vertical studs. After all studs are hanging on layout, I set up a laser to the rough framing line and cut the studs just short of that line.
Shuuuuuuu
Hola Luis. No existe un "metodo" correcto como tal. Puedes colocar tu laser a la altura indicada y una vez que hagas tu layout en el track superior vas midiendo con el tape la distancia desde el track hasta la linea del laser y vas cortando tus metales (Recuerda que debes cortarlos 1/8 o 1/4 de pulgada mas pequenos que la distancia que mediste porque al colocar el track inferior la distancia aumenta un poco. Tambien puedes ponerlos todos un poco mas largos que la medida del laser y al final cortas cada uno a la medida deseada. Ambos metodos funcionan. Saludos!
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Hey Jose I have a question what will be the Right. gauge of metal studs To build a small room on residential thanks Great video bro
Hey there my man, check this video out ruclips.net/video/s7Fd1zFCjws/видео.html
So the header doesn't need a level set on top or magnetic torpedo on bottom? Or we are just going with what the laser line?
Go with the laser line
You frame exactly like me but the cripples you follow layout correct?
I do.
Just come across your video. I live in NC where is the closest carpentry union for me
Joshua Bartley
Local 312
Contact: Randy Jenkins
541 Tom Everhart Road
Lexington, NC 27292
Phone: 336-249-2239
Fax: 336-249-6010
Email: local312@triad.twcbc.com
Jurisdiction:
North Carolina: Alamance, Alexander, Alleghany, Anson, Beaufort, Bladen, Brunswick, Buncombe, Burke, Cabarrus, Caldwell, Carteret, Caswell, Catawba, Chatham, Chowan, Clay, Cleveland, Columbus, Craven, Cumberland, Dare, Davidson, Davie, Duplin, Durham, Edgecombe, Forsyth, Franklin, Gaston, Granville, Greene, Guilford, Halifax, Harnett, Henderson, Hoke, Hyde, Iredell, Jackson, Johnston, Jones, Lee, Lenoir, Lincoln, McDowell, Macon, Martin, Mecklenburg, Montgomery, Moore, Nash, New Hanover, Onslow,
Orange, Pamlico, Pender, Person, Pitt, Polk, Randolph, Richmond, Robeson, Rockingham, Rowan, Rutherford, Sampson, Scotland, Stanly, Stokes, Surry, Transylvania, Tyrrell, Union, Vance, Wake, Warren, Washington, Wayne, Wilkes, Wilson, Yadkin counties.
Thanks
It's not easy I been doing this for many years and it's hard job physically and mentally
When and why you used Metal studs over Wood Studs?
Some quick points: it’s faster, more accurate, higher sound rating, fire rating, less mess, no rot, no warping, among other things