📦 PRODUCTS IN THIS VIDEO 📦 • DeWalt Screwdriver 40-Piece Bit Set, Impact Ready (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/LA9a2h • Horusdy 208-Piece Screwdriver Bit Set (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/fjeGe • DAP Tank Bond Liquid Grip: bit.ly/3dHVPWK The Amazon links above are affiliate links, which means you pay the same price as always but we make a small commission, which helps out our channel - so thanks!
That tank bond stuff really saved me on a hard to reach rapidly stripping screw. After several minutes of carefully driving this cabinet screw at an awkward angle, I stopped when I realized it was stripping, watched this video and went out and got this stuff, and finished the screw in about 30 seconds. I could have saved a bunch of time if I had this from the beginning. Thanks! Good stuff.
Probably the most important tip is to make sure your bit isn’t worn. Every time you let it slip you are wearing some of the bit off. Soon even the correct size bit will constantly slip. Replace them often. They are cheap
One of the best things I ever did tool wise is buying a 30 or 50 pack of assorted bits. Always easy to find the right one and no quibbles about tossing a bad one.
Tank Bond is basically engine valve grinding/lapping compound. So, if your local auto parts store is close by, you can get that stuff too and it's identical. Valve lapping compound is used to grind away the valve and seat surface of a valve that is old and either pitted from heat or pitted from rust. It restores the full contact band needed to seal. It's basically liquid sandpaper. 👍
@@harrycaul2494 Sodium Bicarb is quite soft. That doesn't make sense. Fine pumice or some Silicon carbide (SiC) powder/granules does. PS The real problem is extracting 'stuck' screws, in that placement pressure helps drive it in, but fights pulling it out.
@@you2tooyou2too Bicarb just causes the superglue to harden very quickly. Makes sense if you want to glue the screw to your driver, but that's pretty unusual... maybe an option if you need to place a non-magnetic screw (like brass) in a tough-to-reach spot?
Good tips. A few more... Drill the correct size pilot hole, especially in hard woods or when using small screws or soft metal screws like brass. Apply some wax to the threads before inserting, I keep an old candle nearby just for that purpose. Also, watch your speed when driving screws so you have more control when driving.
@@janami-dharmam When I faced extremely hard and viscous wood, I naively sprinkled some WD-40 in predrilled holes, it was the first thing to come to my mind. It helped me. What do you think about it?
I drilled a large hole in the bottom end of my finish hammer handle. I fill this with bee's wax (toilet ring). Note: if you drill a small hole that intersects the end of the handle hole it will allow air to escape as you fill the bee's wax hole easier. This way I had wax at the ready for both nails or screws. In addition, I would melt some was and keep it in a tin in one of my tool boxes for either refilling my hammer handle or for poking screws into when needed.
@@OlTrailDog It's not a good idea to drill or embed anything into a hummer handle, it badly weakens it. This part should be solid and smoothly shaped as much as possible.
Indeed. Also use a counter sink tool to hammer a few hits on it to start a tiny hole. This will guarantee your drill bit doesn't dance around the spot you want it to truly begin a new hole with. 😁
Good info. I took a course in fasteners years ago when I was going to school for manufacturing engineering (never finished that degree, but got 2 in welding). My instructor was adamant that when the screw head was damaged it was “cammed out”, and “stripped out” referred to the threads being damaged.
That's accurate. I thought about using the term "cam out" but opted for "strip" since that's what more people know it by. I usually call it a stripped screw head too - I should probably start using the right term 😂
@@LRN2DIY Haha. I gave up years ago. Same thing with widescreen TVs. People call them 16 X 9, when in fact it’s an aspect ratio of 16 : 9. I just thought I’d throw it out there for the heck of it. 🤣
common language needed in the title to bring people here but agree probably the most obvious learning opportunity that was missed here and a great place to start "youve been saying it wrong the whole time kids!" that will get them to watch the rest of the video
@@LRN2DIYDo not change what you said. This person's instructor was completely incorrect. Both situations are "stripped out". To "cam out" has nothing whatsoever to do with damage to the fastener or material. The short explanation: "Stripping out" material or a fastener is to remove material that engages a tool to the fastener or the fastener to the material. "Cam out" describes two components, intended to solidly move together when force is applied to one of the components, that slip because of an inability to retain proper position and alignment between the two. This can be by design or due to damage, but in the case of damage you haven't "cam'd out" the fastener or tool, you've stripped away material that creates a solid connection between them. In fact, if you completely strip the head of a cheap fastener, your tool won't cam out at all. It will simply spin in the empty space it drill out. The long explanation: By definition, "camming out" is when two objects that are designed to interact with force in one direction separate due to force in an off axis direction. Fasteners such as bolts, screws, etc are typically designed for clockwise force to apply or install the fastener and counterclockwise to loosen or remove the fastener. On a graph this would be equal force in both the x and y axis. Any force in the z-axis will either assist in preventing cam out or cause it. A perfect marriage of tool, fastener, and material can still experience cam out without damage to any of the components. In a ratchet, the operating mechanism is a deliberate cam out of the stationary tooth. It slides over the rotary gear teeth in one direction while catching in the opposite direction. "Stripping out" is absolutely caused by damage either to the fastener, the material, or the tool. To strip is to remove. In the case of materials, soft material or material that has become soft from rot or rust can be damaged by the threads of fastener, rounding out the entire hole to the outer diameter of the threads, thereby preventing them from securing the material. The threads of a fastener can be damaged and, consequently, also not engage the material to hold it in place. Stripping a fastener, as your entire video is about, is usually when a hardened or harder tool removes softer material from the head of the fastener. That isn't camming out! You've stripped The head of the fastener, removing material intended to engage the tool to the fastener. The slip is cam out. The damage that caused it is stripping out.
Depending on the timber, I also drill a pilot hole to the inner diameter of the thread. I also apply beeswax to stop binding. This is a must if you are using brass screws.
Good tips for north American soft wood, but if using Australian hard wood pre-drill. If the wood smokes when drilling add soap to thread. Also avoid cheap screws, like ones that came with hinges,etc. Cheers
I just became a homeowner last July and I’ve started to dabble in DIY. I’ve made the mistake many times of stripping screws. Thanks for the video! You saved me some frustration!!
A wide rubber band works as good as the liquid grip and you can use it over and over again. If you’re driving tons of screws just keep a couple on you wrist. The best part they cost like 2 cents. 😁
Great tips for me: when on a ladder, using all of my 63 year old female upper body strenth, not easy to apply enough pressure! I like using Robertson screws.
For GOD's sake, what are you doing on a ladder? Don't you feel that you are too old to be doing DIY using a ladder? When I was just a young boy, my mother taught me not to climb any higher than I could afford to fall.
@@outlet6989 I'm 69 years old I worked off a ladder (not too high I admit) to remove 60 feet of rotted fascia board as the contractor wanted $1500 to replace it. Five hours to remove gutters and tear down by myself. Six hours the next day for me and a handyman to paint and install new 2x8 fascia. Total cost for materials and paying handyman $425.
Drill- Packedge in typical box, came with a tool bag (added bonus), two batteries, one charger, drill, and driver. Two words "plenty of Torque" ruclips.net/user/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv well I guess that's three. Nice upgrade from current setup. Has belt clips, I don't think I will be using those. Driver and drill were bigger than what I expected but it is an upgrade from the current setup. For the money I would say that this is a great setup for Professionals and DIY/Weekend warriors.
A few tips too... Those black screws are hardened steel. They are really hard to strip, so I use them a lot more, but even the standard screws that do strip, I find using one of those impact driver helps a LOT more than drills. I think the impact action keeps the head seated into the screw and unlike drills won't just back out.
I bought a product like that nearly 20 years ago from Sears, it was a paste with tiny carbide grit in it, and it works well. I also bought screwdrivers that have grit made on the bit, they also work very well.
Great info , thanks for sharing. Right to the point with no BS music or self promotion nonsense. Very informative and I learned a few things I didn’t know. Thanks again liked and sub
A long time ago I switched over to hex head screws because stripped screw heads were too frequent. & used the 1/4 inch nut-setter that usually came with the drill or anything you bought for it.
I am in Canada, where we mostly use the square Robertson. I have never had a problem with those, yet many people refused to use them. What are your thoughts on this?
I thought I bought the wrong kind of drill. I was using the wrong Phillips head, I had a pointy one and didn’t need it. Thank you! Teaching me things I shoulda learned a long time ago.
I would start with the fact that absolutely any drive can cam out, depending on the conditions. Thank you for the liquid grip idea, I did not know such a product.
Hey just an fyi but the first part you may want to ch do out the difference between Philips tip vs Reed Prince. Different tip looks almost the same slight different thickness but also sharp tip vs blunted tip. Also tapping in a tip with a hammer to clean any rust or dirt and fit better helps. I use the replaceable tips for that. Don’t want to hammer on my screwdrivers. Auto Tech.
The great discovery driving long, large, PH2 screws is to use the impact gun. With a conventional driver, you have to push more to keep the bit in when you need more torque. With the impact driver, after each hit, the bit relaxes and bottoms - you have to use a fraction of the push with an impact.
Excellent video. The Tank Bond idea is new to me. However, *torque* is specifically a turning or twisting force, not the downward pressure. Applying the downward pressure might help you to apply more torque, but the downward pressure is not torque.
Maybe I missed it, but pre-drilling the hole is probably the best tip I would give, especially on any sort of hard wood. It has the added bonus of preventing the wood from splitting / cracking.
There are several videos showing the relatively new Makita impact xps bits. They seem to fit insanely well. If you absolutely must use phillips screws, I would recommend giving them a try.
Thank you. i just stripped 3 screws which was incredibly frustrating. I can't get my drill to be at exactly the perfect angle because the Z bracket I'm mounting is in the way. I didn't realize the driver heads have sizes on them or that the place where you buy screws tells the driver size. Our package of driver heads that have been in our drill case for years are all the same size as the one that came attached to the drill (ph2). I didn't realize it until just now. I replaced the old one with one of the ones we've never used. I also dug through our very disorganized shelf of tools and found a set of assorted sizes which has a fatter, better fitting head, an extension to help with the angle problem, and I just ordered some tank bond on amazon. When the tank bond gets here tomorrow, those screws won't stand a chance! Thanks for making this vid.
I've also heard that most of the cheap no-name Philips bits are not designed for impact driving. The Big Name bits with the color tape on the neck are the ones to use. Thanks for the tip on Tank Bond. Ordered sometoday.
Thank you very much for the tip (Tank bond), I've had several TBI's and 3 strokes. Very limited use of my right side body. This is going to be a life changer for me. Thank you again
Man! - That LAST tip... Tank Bond Liquid Grip... I had no idea something like that existed. I subbed just because of that. Was stripping screws all day today it seemed. Up on a ladder, weird angles, sometimes where I had to use the non-dominant hand; and couldn't get my full body weight behind it. Wood felt rock hard. So, here's three tips of mine: 1) Whenever you have to press hard, tuck your elbow into your thigh or stomach; and don't wing out your elbow; but keep it very straight up and down. (This lines up your bones and muscles and everything with the best body mechanics for the best leverage). 2) Drill Pilot Holes, bigger ones for the part of the screw that's passing THROUGH THE OUTER MATERIAL; and smaller ones for the main connective piece. 2a) You can get jigs that keep you absolutely straight (meaning the holes wind being drilled at the exact same angle and the exact same distance from the end of the piece of wood, EVERY TIME, even when drilling at an angle, such as when attaching two pieces of wood that are perpendicular to one another. Good video all around. Thanks. DM
Excellent video. If only people knew eh !! Things like this should be taught in schools so that when they venture out into the real world they'd stand half a chance. I was lucky that my Dad was an aviation prototype designer and engineer. By the age of 12 I was rebuilding old British seized up motorcycles, working on our privately owned biplanes, and I was flying them too. I'm a Husband and Wife team in property renovation. Screws, and nail, and my wife, don't get on well. I've showd her this video, much to her feeling insulted, but, hopefully, something might just 'click'. I'll know soon enough if the rate of problematic screws goes down !!! Videos like this seem ridiculous sometimes, but in reality, they really do have a 'once known - always remembered' . . . hopefully !!!! We need more videos like this type so thanks for that
I find the pozidrive no 2 will fit most pozi screws. However the Dewalt no 2 pozi i find a bit small. Torx are excellent as long as you use the RIGHT SIZE. Obvious i would have thought!
Some advice I learned hard way, I was using wrong size bit thinking it was correct size but just poorly fitting. Example, the T25 and T27 are very close and can think the T25 is proper for the bolt even with a little wiggle room, but putting the next size up [T27] was totally perfect fit and no more slippage or rounding of fitting Tank bond looks awesome
Exactly what i needed THANK YOU! I strip like 90% of the screws i try to use with a drill. Mainly cause i have no idea what I'm doing 😂. Thanks man, ordering myself some of that liquid grip for sure
I was trying to remove a fairly small, but long Philips head screw with my drill. It was in an awkward location and I ended up stripping the head. An experienced carpenter got it out using an impact driver with a square head bit. Pretty amazing.
I have trouble with the pressure. Do you have any suggestions for a tool that will help me apply more pressure because apparently I'm not quite strong enough?
Awesome n informative upload. Ur vid will remind me the 4 tips of proper screw driving. Kudos. New subscriber because of this vid. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
Duuude. I must say I truly love your channel. Especially when you do vids like this one. I'm a maintenance man at an apartment complex so I face little annoying battles like this every day. Wish you were around twenty years ago when I was starting out. I also enjoy the fact that you bring out info such as the laser tv vid. Keep it up. But truly..it's the solutions to the small yet EXTREMELY annoying things those of us who work to maintain things at work or home deal with that give me the most pleasure. As a way too personal aside... If your wife or whatever doesn't appreciate you you could do better...😅
cant believe the quality of fasteners and the metal on metal dynamics between bit and fastener wasnt discussed I cam here hoping to learn a few basic pointers about that, as from experience buying higher quality fasteners and bits has made the biggest difference for me aside from learning how to properly use the torque settings on my drill it's a whole year later I honestly think you could re-release a much updated version of this video with some key basic information thats missing then you can link to your video about how to REMOVE stripped screws lol I am just a hobbyist
Sounds like you already know the basic pointers you "cam" here looking for 😂 Why don't you just enlighten folks in the comments rather than solicit free labor from the content creator you're already gleaning free content from? 🤔💭
One of the best things I ever did regarding DIY projects is switching to square-drive screws. No more slipping out of slotted screws (seriously, why do those still exist? {esp. glaring at the electrical dept.}) or stripping out philips screws.
1:22... ,you can't use Pozidrive No:3 istead of Philips No:4 !!! One tip is that philips screws are like this one,whereas pozidrive screws have lines in between the Cross section pattern..🌟👍
I would suggest using a small ratchet set to ensure you get the best connection as it were. A cordless drill can sometimes be too much and using the correct clutch setting can really help. Never rush or hurry a job you are doing, take time to do it properly as you will get a better result.
This video is awesome thank you so much for this video. I learnt so much from it. I had no idea there is a difference between Philips and the Pozidriv. Blew my mind. Next up - I'll watch your video about the 5 drill features (I don't know that one either).
For the larger Phillips screws, I typically use a small square bit. They fit perfectly into the center of the large Phillips but they don’t slip out at all allowing you to apply even more torque than the Phillips drive.
Small square bit in a Phillips works with Posidrive screws but isn’t guaranteed to work in all Phillips screws. Btw, IKEA fastener kits usually have posidrive screws, even in North America
Start large to small, not small to large to get the best matched hex/torx bit. If the head has a Phillips and a hex head, rather drive it with a nut setter. With slotted heads, use a bit that's the same width as the slot. A Phillips bit will fit in a Pozidriv screw head, but a Pozidriv bit does not properly fit in a Phillips screw head, so rather keep your Phillips bit as your default, unless you make the effort to inspect the head. You get a tighter fit when screwing two pieces of lumber together if you pre-drill the first piece...or use the correct screw with a bare shank below the head. Use washers in high torque situations or fixing thin/soft material. Zig-zag multiple screws in wood to reduce splitting. You can never have enough screwdrivers or bits.
It's the other way around. A pz-bit will do ok on a ph-screw, but a ph-bit should never be used on a pz-screw. The PH is design to not overtorque the screw, and therfore it's easy to strip.
Bro you have a really great channel here. I just found you recently And wow you have so many informative videos. I already follow and watch a lot of tool and DIY related content but you but you have provided education in areas those channels havent. Thank you!
My usual problem is trying to back out stripped screws left by other people. There is a tool (a "screw extractor") for the job; it would be nice to see a video explaining how to use it.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
📦 PRODUCTS IN THIS VIDEO 📦
• DeWalt Screwdriver 40-Piece Bit Set, Impact Ready (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/LA9a2h
• Horusdy 208-Piece Screwdriver Bit Set (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/fjeGe
• DAP Tank Bond Liquid Grip: bit.ly/3dHVPWK
The Amazon links above are affiliate links, which means you pay the same price as always but we make a small commission, which helps out our channel - so thanks!
Amazon links are not working...
It's like liquid sand. Learned something today.
Bad links.
Soap mould
PZ screws have PH obsolete around here.
That tank bond stuff really saved me on a hard to reach rapidly stripping screw. After several minutes of carefully driving this cabinet screw at an awkward angle, I stopped when I realized it was stripping, watched this video and went out and got this stuff, and finished the screw in about 30 seconds. I could have saved a bunch of time if I had this from the beginning. Thanks! Good stuff.
You could of also used dry wax or soap on screws.Helps a lot going in specially on hard woods
@@rubo1964 I assume you mean on the threads?
My number one tip is to not use Philips heads in the first place.
Yea me to i bought the torx screws by accident lol once i tried them i nev buy phillips again
Based comment
Unfortunately most things you buy that contain screws - have Philips screws. I hate them!
@@Q..J.. You can find Torx in the same lengths as phillips.
@@DiligentDave1966 sweet!! Thanks for the info., checking them out now. 😊
Probably the most important tip is to make sure your bit isn’t worn. Every time you let it slip you are wearing some of the bit off. Soon even the correct size bit will constantly slip. Replace them often. They are cheap
One of the best things I ever did tool wise is buying a 30 or 50 pack of assorted bits. Always easy to find the right one and no quibbles about tossing a bad one.
not usually the case in my experience except on the cheapest of bits, usually they are all much harder than a screw
شكرًا
Tank Bond is basically engine valve grinding/lapping compound. So, if your local auto parts store is close by, you can get that stuff too and it's identical. Valve lapping compound is used to grind away the valve and seat surface of a valve that is old and either pitted from heat or pitted from rust. It restores the full contact band needed to seal. It's basically liquid sandpaper. 👍
Thanks, I'm sure lapping compound is cheaper.
Nice tip. Can at a push use superglue and bicarbonate
@@michaelhutin5451 - No its not 🙂
@@harrycaul2494 Sodium Bicarb is quite soft. That doesn't make sense. Fine pumice or some Silicon carbide (SiC) powder/granules does.
PS The real problem is extracting 'stuck' screws, in that placement pressure helps drive it in, but fights pulling it out.
@@you2tooyou2too Bicarb just causes the superglue to harden very quickly. Makes sense if you want to glue the screw to your driver, but that's pretty unusual... maybe an option if you need to place a non-magnetic screw (like brass) in a tough-to-reach spot?
Good tips. A few more... Drill the correct size pilot hole, especially in hard woods or when using small screws or soft metal screws like brass. Apply some wax to the threads before inserting, I keep an old candle nearby just for that purpose. Also, watch your speed when driving screws so you have more control when driving.
Good idea. It does work. Some kinds of wood, for example, give enormous friction.
Instead of wax, a bar of soap or a drop of liquid soap is also useful. soap will not interfere with subsequent painting or other type of finish.
@@janami-dharmam When I faced extremely hard and viscous wood, I naively sprinkled some WD-40 in predrilled holes, it was the first thing to come to my mind. It helped me. What do you think about it?
I drilled a large hole in the bottom end of my finish hammer handle. I fill this with bee's wax (toilet ring). Note: if you drill a small hole that intersects the end of the handle hole it will allow air to escape as you fill the bee's wax hole easier. This way I had wax at the ready for both nails or screws. In addition, I would melt some was and keep it in a tin in one of my tool boxes for either refilling my hammer handle or for poking screws into when needed.
@@OlTrailDog It's not a good idea to drill or embed anything into a hummer handle, it badly weakens it. This part should be solid and smoothly shaped as much as possible.
Thanks!
Pre-drilling is also a good tip.
Great point - I'm a huge fan of pre-drilling in general to avoid splits and cam out.
@@LRN2DIY True. I thought you would start from this tip.
Indeed. Also use a counter sink tool to hammer a few hits on it to start a tiny hole. This will guarantee your drill bit doesn't dance around the spot you want it to truly begin a new hole with. 😁
@@motoryzen "automatic center punch"
@@Mr_Killjoy420 indeed. One name for it is a nail punch or nail setter.
Good info. I took a course in fasteners years ago when I was going to school for manufacturing engineering (never finished that degree, but got 2 in welding). My instructor was adamant that when the screw head was damaged it was “cammed out”, and “stripped out” referred to the threads being damaged.
That's accurate. I thought about using the term "cam out" but opted for "strip" since that's what more people know it by. I usually call it a stripped screw head too - I should probably start using the right term 😂
@@LRN2DIY Haha. I gave up years ago. Same thing with widescreen TVs. People call them 16 X 9, when in fact it’s an aspect ratio of 16 : 9. I just thought I’d throw it out there for the heck of it. 🤣
common language needed in the title to bring people here but agree probably the most obvious learning opportunity that was missed here and a great place to start "youve been saying it wrong the whole time kids!" that will get them to watch the rest of the video
@@LRN2DIY please use your influence to help correct this then. Explain the correct term so people don’t make this mistake forever.
@@LRN2DIYDo not change what you said. This person's instructor was completely incorrect. Both situations are "stripped out". To "cam out" has nothing whatsoever to do with damage to the fastener or material.
The short explanation: "Stripping out" material or a fastener is to remove material that engages a tool to the fastener or the fastener to the material. "Cam out" describes two components, intended to solidly move together when force is applied to one of the components, that slip because of an inability to retain proper position and alignment between the two. This can be by design or due to damage, but in the case of damage you haven't "cam'd out" the fastener or tool, you've stripped away material that creates a solid connection between them. In fact, if you completely strip the head of a cheap fastener, your tool won't cam out at all. It will simply spin in the empty space it drill out.
The long explanation:
By definition, "camming out" is when two objects that are designed to interact with force in one direction separate due to force in an off axis direction.
Fasteners such as bolts, screws, etc are typically designed for clockwise force to apply or install the fastener and counterclockwise to loosen or remove the fastener. On a graph this would be equal force in both the x and y axis. Any force in the z-axis will either assist in preventing cam out or cause it. A perfect marriage of tool, fastener, and material can still experience cam out without damage to any of the components. In a ratchet, the operating mechanism is a deliberate cam out of the stationary tooth. It slides over the rotary gear teeth in one direction while catching in the opposite direction.
"Stripping out" is absolutely caused by damage either to the fastener, the material, or the tool. To strip is to remove. In the case of materials, soft material or material that has become soft from rot or rust can be damaged by the threads of fastener, rounding out the entire hole to the outer diameter of the threads, thereby preventing them from securing the material. The threads of a fastener can be damaged and, consequently, also not engage the material to hold it in place. Stripping a fastener, as your entire video is about, is usually when a hardened or harder tool removes softer material from the head of the fastener. That isn't camming out! You've stripped The head of the fastener, removing material intended to engage the tool to the fastener. The slip is cam out. The damage that caused it is stripping out.
Depending on the timber, I also drill a pilot hole to the inner diameter of the thread. I also apply beeswax to stop binding. This is a must if you are using brass screws.
Can you explain in more detail "drill a pilot hole to the inner diameter of the thread"
@@PR-bd1ky OK, use a drill that is the same size as the screw shank. So if the screw has a 3.00 mm shank then use a 3.00 mm diameter screw.
Good tips for north American soft wood, but if using Australian hard wood pre-drill. If the wood smokes when drilling add soap to thread. Also avoid cheap screws, like ones that came with hinges,etc. Cheers
You nailed it😄👍🏼 at times even drill bit struggles to get through the hard woods.
Don’t use Phillips mate, try the Robertson or Torx, 200mm bugle bolts through treated pine posts in one shot.🦘🇦🇺👍🏼
I just became a homeowner last July and I’ve started to dabble in DIY. I’ve made the mistake many times of stripping screws. Thanks for the video! You saved me some frustration!!
A wide rubber band works as good as the liquid grip and you can use it over and over again. If you’re driving tons of screws just keep a couple on you wrist. The best part they cost like 2 cents. 😁
Solid, thanks!
That was probably the smoothest transition to a sponsor endorsement I've ever seen. Smoooooth.
Rough transitions suck. SNL has a good skit: ruclips.net/video/4YEmeXsknE4/видео.html
Great tips for me: when on a ladder, using all of my 63 year old female upper body strenth, not easy to apply enough pressure! I like using Robertson screws.
Robertson screws are the best by far, but not well known in the states.
Robertson = square head
For GOD's sake, what are you doing on a ladder? Don't you feel that you are too old to be doing DIY using a ladder? When I was just a young boy, my mother taught me not to climb any higher than I could afford to fall.
@@outlet6989 I'm 69 years old I worked off a ladder (not too high I admit) to remove 60 feet of rotted fascia board as the contractor wanted $1500 to replace it. Five hours to remove gutters and tear down by myself. Six hours the next day for me and a handyman to paint and install new 2x8 fascia. Total cost for materials and paying handyman $425.
@@berniehayhurst1811 sure they are! Just called square drive here. Menards sells lots of them. Not Home Depot though. Don't know about Lowes.
Tank bond liquid grip is new to me ... I'm bout to order it
Me too.
It worked for me on 3 screws. They did not want to leave home.
Drill- Packedge in typical box, came with a tool bag (added bonus), two batteries, one charger, drill, and driver. Two words "plenty of Torque" ruclips.net/user/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv well I guess that's three. Nice upgrade from current setup. Has belt clips, I don't think I will be using those. Driver and drill were bigger than what I expected but it is an upgrade from the current setup. For the money I would say that this is a great setup for Professionals and DIY/Weekend warriors.
A few tips too...
Those black screws are hardened steel. They are really hard to strip, so I use them a lot more, but even the standard screws that do strip, I find using one of those impact driver helps a LOT more than drills. I think the impact action keeps the head seated into the screw and unlike drills won't just back out.
I've gone over to star head screws. Wind them in fast with my cordless impact wrench and rarely need pilot holes in soft woods.
I bought a product like that nearly 20 years ago from Sears, it was a paste with tiny carbide grit in it, and it works well. I also bought screwdrivers that have grit made on the bit, they also work very well.
Great info , thanks for sharing. Right to the point with no BS music or self promotion nonsense. Very informative and I learned a few things I didn’t know. Thanks again liked and sub
1:30 merch ad
I would suggest pre-drilling holes, especially in harder woods.
A long time ago I switched over to hex head screws because stripped screw heads were too frequent. & used the 1/4 inch nut-setter that usually came with the drill or anything you bought for it.
I am in Canada, where we mostly use the square Robertson. I have never had a problem with those, yet many people refused to use them. What are your thoughts on this?
Hi Ontario here......yes we have the best,
I'm in USA we call them square drive and i totally agree they're the best.
I thought I bought the wrong kind of drill. I was using the wrong Phillips head, I had a pointy one and didn’t need it. Thank you! Teaching me things I shoulda learned a long time ago.
I would start with the fact that absolutely any drive can cam out, depending on the conditions. Thank you for the liquid grip idea, I did not know such a product.
use a rubber band on top of the screw, or better yet, DITCH the philips
Hey just an fyi but the first part you may want to ch do out the difference between Philips tip vs Reed Prince. Different tip looks almost the same slight different thickness but also sharp tip vs blunted tip. Also tapping in a tip with a hammer to clean any rust or dirt and fit better helps. I use the replaceable tips for that. Don’t want to hammer on my screwdrivers.
Auto Tech.
The great discovery driving long, large, PH2 screws is to use the impact gun. With a conventional driver, you have to push more to keep the bit in when you need more torque. With the impact driver, after each hit, the bit relaxes and bottoms - you have to use a fraction of the push with an impact.
Wow! Never heard of tank bond. Thanks!
Excellent video. The Tank Bond idea is new to me. However, *torque* is specifically a turning or twisting force, not the downward pressure. Applying the downward pressure might help you to apply more torque, but the downward pressure is not torque.
Liquid grip seems to work the same as valve grinding compound. Thanks for the tip.
Maybe I missed it, but pre-drilling the hole is probably the best tip I would give, especially on any sort of hard wood. It has the added bonus of preventing the wood from splitting / cracking.
There are several videos showing the relatively new Makita impact xps bits. They seem to fit insanely well. If you absolutely must use phillips screws, I would recommend giving them a try.
I've watched a lot of RUclips, and I've never instantly wanted the sponsor's product like I did after watching this video! 10/10 product placement 😅
Thank you. i just stripped 3 screws which was incredibly frustrating. I can't get my drill to be at exactly the perfect angle because the Z bracket I'm mounting is in the way.
I didn't realize the driver heads have sizes on them or that the place where you buy screws tells the driver size. Our package of driver heads that have been in our drill case for years are all the same size as the one that came attached to the drill (ph2). I didn't realize it until just now. I replaced the old one with one of the ones we've never used.
I also dug through our very disorganized shelf of tools and found a set of assorted sizes which has a fatter, better fitting head, an extension to help with the angle problem, and I just ordered some tank bond on amazon.
When the tank bond gets here tomorrow, those screws won't stand a chance! Thanks for making this vid.
Thanks for the info on the DAP products, Nils.Very well organized!
I've also heard that most of the cheap no-name Philips bits are not designed for impact driving. The Big Name bits with the color tape on the neck are the ones to use. Thanks for the tip on Tank Bond. Ordered sometoday.
That's why you purchase impact bits for the impact driver. Or regular bits for a non impact tool.
Thank you very much for the tip (Tank bond), I've had several TBI's and 3 strokes. Very limited use of my right side body. This is going to be a life changer for me.
Thank you again
Will the tank bond help to remove stripped screw? Thanks in advance.
Man! - That LAST tip... Tank Bond Liquid Grip... I had no idea something like that existed. I subbed just because of that.
Was stripping screws all day today it seemed. Up on a ladder, weird angles, sometimes where I had to use the non-dominant hand; and couldn't get my full body weight behind it.
Wood felt rock hard. So, here's three tips of mine:
1) Whenever you have to press hard, tuck your elbow into your thigh or stomach; and don't wing out your elbow; but keep it very straight up and down. (This lines up your bones and muscles and everything with the best body mechanics for the best leverage).
2) Drill Pilot Holes, bigger ones for the part of the screw that's passing THROUGH THE OUTER MATERIAL; and smaller ones for the main connective piece.
2a) You can get jigs that keep you absolutely straight (meaning the holes wind being drilled at the exact same angle and the exact same distance from the end of the piece of wood, EVERY TIME, even when drilling at an angle, such as when attaching two pieces of wood that are perpendicular to one another.
Good video all around. Thanks.
DM
All the flat pak furniture I’ve assembled lately- the screws are so soft! They strip so easily! Will try some of these tips though, many thanks!
Excellent tips. Not knowing about Tank Bond Liquid Grip.
What's the best tip for philips #2 tap con?
Excellent video. If only people knew eh !! Things like this should be taught in schools so that when they venture out into the real world they'd stand half a chance. I was lucky that my Dad was an aviation prototype designer and engineer. By the age of 12 I was rebuilding old British seized up motorcycles, working on our privately owned biplanes, and I was flying them too.
I'm a Husband and Wife team in property renovation. Screws, and nail, and my wife, don't get on well. I've showd her this video, much to her feeling insulted, but, hopefully, something might just 'click'. I'll know soon enough if the rate of problematic screws goes down !!!
Videos like this seem ridiculous sometimes, but in reality, they really do have a 'once known - always remembered' . . . hopefully !!!!
We need more videos like this type so thanks for that
1st grader attempt at "Humble Brag" has entered the chat.
It's basically lapping compound, which along with its intended use, I've been using it for this purpose for years.
I find the pozidrive no 2 will fit most pozi screws. However the Dewalt no 2 pozi i find a bit small. Torx are excellent as long as you use the RIGHT SIZE. Obvious i would have thought!
Some advice I learned hard way, I was using wrong size bit thinking it was correct size but just poorly fitting. Example, the T25 and T27 are very close and can think the T25 is proper for the bolt even with a little wiggle room, but putting the next size up [T27] was totally perfect fit and no more slippage or rounding of fitting
Tank bond looks awesome
Exactly what i needed THANK YOU! I strip like 90% of the screws i try to use with a drill. Mainly cause i have no idea what I'm doing 😂. Thanks man, ordering myself some of that liquid grip for sure
I was trying to remove a fairly small, but long Philips head screw with my drill. It was in an awkward location and I ended up stripping the head. An experienced carpenter got it out using an impact driver with a square head bit. Pretty amazing.
The DAP product looks really good. Thanks
Very interesting, I have never heard of liquid grip, will look out for it next time in shop, seems like a handy thing to have.
I've never heard of the tank bond. I'm ordering some right now
I have trouble with the pressure. Do you have any suggestions for a tool that will help me apply more pressure because apparently I'm not quite strong enough?
Have you tried using an impact driver? It produces a hammering effect that is designed to drive screws in with less effort and they work wonders.
Please Use Torx (T25) or Robertsons (Square) which dont need downward pressure like a phillips
From my experience, using a bit holder with a slide over sleeve helps a bunch........
Are you using the impact drivers in this video?
Awesome n informative upload. Ur vid will remind me the 4 tips of proper screw driving. Kudos. New subscriber because of this vid. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
Duuude.
I must say I truly love your channel.
Especially when you do vids like this one.
I'm a maintenance man at an apartment complex so I face little annoying battles like this every day.
Wish you were around twenty years ago when I was starting out.
I also enjoy the fact that you bring out info such as the laser tv vid.
Keep it up.
But truly..it's the solutions to the small yet EXTREMELY annoying things those of us who work to maintain things at work or home
deal with that give me the most pleasure.
As a way too personal aside...
If your wife or whatever doesn't appreciate you you could do better...😅
cant believe the quality of fasteners and the metal on metal dynamics between bit and fastener wasnt discussed
I cam here hoping to learn a few basic pointers about that, as from experience buying higher quality fasteners and bits has made the biggest difference for me
aside from learning how to properly use the torque settings on my drill
it's a whole year later I honestly think you could re-release a much updated version of this video with some key basic information thats missing
then you can link to your video about how to REMOVE stripped screws lol
I am just a hobbyist
Sounds like you already know the basic pointers you "cam" here looking for 😂
Why don't you just enlighten folks in the comments rather than solicit free labor from the content creator you're already gleaning free content from? 🤔💭
THIS! This is the kind of information I've been looking for! Thank you :)
I am Canadian and I use Robertson screws. When I come across a Phillips, Which is often as the US has never heard of a Robertson, I replace it.
It's basic but needed information for new masters))
One of the best things I ever did regarding DIY projects is switching to square-drive screws. No more slipping out of slotted screws (seriously, why do those still exist? {esp. glaring at the electrical dept.}) or stripping out philips screws.
Agreed! Square drive is such a great fastener type, along with Torx.
1:22... ,you can't use Pozidrive No:3 istead of Philips No:4 !!! One tip is that philips screws are like this one,whereas pozidrive screws have lines in between the Cross section pattern..🌟👍
I wanted to see if someone mentioned the third drill bit is PZ3, and had to do quite some scrolling! Americans... 🤭
@@RondeLeeuw In 50 years time, America will 'discover' Pozidrive fasteners, and claim they invented them.
Scratch the screw threads to a candle (or wax). It will help a lot with the friction and making it easy to drive it down.
Doesnt this make the wood joints slippery when the wood gets hot?
I always use an old bar of soap to lubrlcate screw threads.
@@berniehayhurst1811 that's what my grandfather taught me to do. Great tip.
My preference is Torx. The heads have many more points to grab.
Great tips, thanks. Especially the DAP Tank Bond.
Thanks for this never learned this but am finding out where ive made mistakes.
Very useful instructions, thanks.
I’m notorious for stripping out screw heads like that. Thank you for this.
I would suggest using a small ratchet set to ensure you get the best connection as it were. A cordless drill can sometimes be too much and using the correct clutch setting can really help. Never rush or hurry a job you are doing, take time to do it properly as you will get a better result.
what does the yellow or red jackets on drill bits mean?
Never knew liquid grip existed 😮Jolly good video
This video is awesome thank you so much for this video. I learnt so much from it. I had no idea there is a difference between Philips and the Pozidriv. Blew my mind. Next up - I'll watch your video about the 5 drill features (I don't know that one either).
I wished I watched that like 20 years ago, thank you man 👍
Still more: for decorative screws pre-drill and pre-thread the hole (using similar size strong screw).
Thanks for sharing great advices greetings from Maryland USA you're awesome
1:16 - Isn't that a Phillips screw and a Pozi bit?
i was totally unaware of that liquid grip stuff too, good sponsor!
My favorites are torx screws and drovers.
Interestingly the "Canadian" square drive is a very good alternative, but is very rare in my neck of woods.
This is why society won't advance. We still use Phillips head
Still 100x better than slotted screws
Use Robertson. Philips was designed to camout to prevent bolt shear of weak steel screws
Tnx for ur useful guidances.
For the larger Phillips screws, I typically use a small square bit. They fit perfectly into the center of the large Phillips but they don’t slip out at all allowing you to apply even more torque than the Phillips drive.
Small square bit in a Phillips works with Posidrive screws but isn’t guaranteed to work in all Phillips screws. Btw, IKEA fastener kits usually have posidrive screws, even in North America
Great to explanation and fixes😎👍
I use poly grip to get stubborn screws in and out. Can’t figure out why it smokes 😱
Great tips!
Well done!
Start large to small, not small to large to get the best matched hex/torx bit. If the head has a Phillips and a hex head, rather drive it with a nut setter. With slotted heads, use a bit that's the same width as the slot. A Phillips bit will fit in a Pozidriv screw head, but a Pozidriv bit does not properly fit in a Phillips screw head, so rather keep your Phillips bit as your default, unless you make the effort to inspect the head. You get a tighter fit when screwing two pieces of lumber together if you pre-drill the first piece...or use the correct screw with a bare shank below the head. Use washers in high torque situations or fixing thin/soft material. Zig-zag multiple screws in wood to reduce splitting. You can never have enough screwdrivers or bits.
It's the other way around. A pz-bit will do ok on a ph-screw, but a ph-bit should never be used on a pz-screw. The PH is design to not overtorque the screw, and therfore it's easy to strip.
Cool thank you!
Nice. Love that Tank Bond
Wow, I'm glad to know about this too; I'll buy some now if I can find it!
what's the liquid grip called in EU ?
Bro you have a really great channel here. I just found you recently And wow you have so many informative videos. I already follow and watch a lot of tool and DIY related content but you but you have provided education in areas those channels havent. Thank you!
Hello is that liquid grip available in the UK I can’t find any?👍
Wish I had watched this video before damaging a couple of screws. Thanks. 🙏
That Dap product looks great. I'm wondering if one could apply it to the bit and get similar results?
Wow, Tank-Bond? Never heard it before. I am not sure how liquid can behave like solid? Does it have metal shaving in it? Thanks,
I'll have to try out Tank Bond myself.
My usual problem is trying to back out stripped screws left by other people. There is a tool (a "screw extractor") for the job; it would be nice to see a video explaining how to use it.
Does the tank bond dry up and fill the slot making it almost impossible to extract as easily..
Excellent bit of knowledge.