The pro installers say to tip the end of the big transducer down a bit and it will allow it to read at higher speeds. Also you have to lower the whole thing down a bit under the hull. So it is in full contract on plane or higher speeds. You always run a risk of hitting it on something. Great video & info about the pod boats like yours and mine. 👍
I want super clear and accurate images at scanning speeds so being perfectly level is what I'm looking for as that provides the best return. As far as lowering it, if the transducer shoots a rooster tail it's too low. Having the transducer too low will impact the speed of the boat and also cause the boat to list so it's best to keep it at or just above the bottom of the transom.
@@Catfishedge Just reading the comments after the video, but picking up lots of useful info from comments as well as videos. hanks again for the video and all that commented!
Yup I did the same. About 6-12inches below the haul line. I ended up getting some c133 stainless steal bar. 1/4 inch thickness. It is more clear than when the boat was in park.
My Garmin GT54 transducer still tracks cleanly at 45+ mph on my Tracker Pro Team 190 Mod V. Mounted roughly an inch further inboard than the factory mounting location (lower transom step) of the Lowrance system. Bottom of hull flush with the top 1/3 of the transducer. Hope this helps someone.
I fought this for months speed up no bottom depth moved and adjusted transducer every way I could finally learned about through hull transducer in fiberglass boat easy to install and works perfect never loose bottom depth any speed using hds 12 live
So with a through hull transducer, you need a Y cable adapter, so your Humminbird can have both transducer feeds I to the back of your unit. Do you find this gives you less clear 2D scan results when you are feeding your unit 2 simultaneous sonar feeds at the same time?
Other than Ranger most manufacturers/dealers install a "shoot through" transducer. Ranger from the factory installs a true thru-hull transducer which is installed in a hole "through" the hull of the boat.
What about losing depth once you start to get on plane and moving forward. I have a lowrance hook reveal it loses depth reading once I pick up speed comes back when I stop .
20' Seaark VFXCat with pods, one of my Lowrance units will maintain bottom and correct depth for the most part at 40, they side scan Lowrance does not like anything over 6 to 10 MPH and it goes crazy. Biggest mistake I have done was getting a Hook2 Triple Shot to get side scan. The transducer is so long they do not work. On my second unit now and out of warranty and it keeps screwing up and locking up. I think it is something in the Transducer now. All these monster units just don't work good on Aluminum boats.
I opted for the triple shot also. I had good imaging to 15mph, but didn't hold. Constantly fussing with angles rather than fishing. Would gladly sacrifice side scan for the smaller transducer and reliable results
Im not so sure they work so good on fiberglass either. I have been fighting the bottom image all season this year on a new Garmin. I have spoken to Garmin many times via chat and gotten much advice. But the first guy said to me was to lower the transducer in the water. I did that and it made things better but I still get funky readings at different times, different water conditions such as weather, speed, etc. Everyone says the transducer is supossed to "skim" the water and I always went by that rule and dismissed the guy in the chat at Garmin about lowering the transducer. I am beginning to think he is right. I have the transducer as low as it can go for the moment. I either have to pull the boat and drill new holes to get the transducer lower or get the boat to a beach where there is very little traffic and drill new holes and lower it then. And just in case your wondering, I am using a Stern Saver for the transducer mount so I am not worried about water breaching the tansom. Either way, I am not too crazy about these new transducers or the "over bearing" amount of settings for it. I can go on and on, but I dont want to get off topic. Im beginning to think that the old school stuff may still have its merits.
I have a Ranger Aluminum RT 178. So no thru hull on an aluminum? I have floatation material in my hull, but it does not look like I have same material in the stern near the transom. Anything over 10 MPH, my depth numbers blink true depth, then just blink inaccurate depths throughout run time. By the time i get to my fishing spot, I have to turn off the meter and power it back up. Most times, but not all the time, the meter will “catch up” to true bottom reading and depth. Very inconvenient! I have a Lowrance Hook7 on my console. I’m sorry, I don’t know which transducer it is, but it is not a high speed transducer. Help!
Does anyone know if there is any truth to turning the transducer around as the sonar component in the transducer is at the front where the cable enters and turning it around helps to eliminate some noise.
I turned my 3 in 1 around and hey presto! Problem solved 🤷🏻♂️ Some say with that particular ducer it works better backwards due to the material used being more concentrated on the end where the cable enters the transducer.
I'd like to see Hummingbird, or any Sonar manufacturer, incorporate an auto feature where screen speed on the unit increases automatically with the increase in boat speed.
Mine loses depth and imaging readings at just under 6 miles an hour… I’m new to all this, but I did follow the manual. I’m running the Helix 5 DI GPS G2 unit with the standard transducer that came with it. I get awesome readings when going under 6 miles an hour. It would be really nice to at least get depth readings at higher speeds. My next move is the lower the angle of the transducer by one notch. Any suggestions ?
I'm assuming its the same on a pontoon, probably compounded by the turbulence around the logs. My question is this. When I first installed the graph and transducer, it worked perfectly, even at 23-24mph. All of a sudden it started losing the depth and the mapping (garmin striker 4 plus with quick draw contour) i figured i had hit some floating wood and knocked the transducer off or broken the mount. Checked it out yesterday and everything was still tight. Any other suggestions? I dont know why it worked perfectly for 2-3 trips, then all of a sudden I'm having problems, even at 6-8 mph. It will randomly start reading right while underway, then will cut out again. Idk if I need to pull it out of the water and try to remount it, but I have limited options on where to mount it. Any advice would be helpful.
I am experiencing the exact same thing on my pontoon. Worked fine, even at higher speeds. Now it loses depth at about 6mph. We have a Hummingbird Helix 7 with a Chirp transducer. Any suggestions would be great!
Pretty sad, my old lowrance di 5 could handle top speed at around 37mph no issues... my new 1k humminbird 7si can't handle 8mph. Looks like the old lowrance isn't leaving the helm quite yet lol I run rivers all the time, it just feels wrong not having graphs while zipping around
We have a new pontoon and pissed away many hours last summer trying to make our Lowrance Hook2 7X depth finder work. By lowering it just below the pontoon we got a slight improvement, but the reading would still disappear at about 5pmh. And often it would not return after slowing down so we repeatedly have to reboot it. After seeing all these videos and user group postings, I am astounded that boat and fish finder manufacturers are indifferent to this frequent customer frustration. And we all shell out hundreds of dollars for crappy technology that offers all kinds of flashy things we don't need, yet won't easily and reliably tell us depth and the location of a few fish. Is that really too much to ask?
If you lose 2D sonar you will lose DI just after that as... 2D sonar is what we use to "range' the DI display. DI does not provide depth. The range is set off of the digital depth from 2D sonar.
I’ve got a Helix 9 G2N. Mine shows double depth 60-70% of the time. Can’t make an accurate autochart map because of it. Anyone know what I need to do? I’ve tried adjusting sensitivity in all directions and that doesn’t help. Thanks.
Catfish Edge I’m still tweaking it a lot. I have a excel catfish pro. The whole transom is gliding on the water when I’m on plane. Your videos been a lot of help. Thanks for your time.
Samething, i loose it at about 4 or 5 miles with fiberglass boat, and i got nothing to interfear with it, and its properly mounted. I cant ever see my conon balls, i gota put te boat in nutrel, (in and outa gear) in order to see my rig's, very anoying. I watched an other video, the guy was running around tge lake at 18- 19 mh, and still marking fish, now maybe he had a diffrent transducer, But i deffinitly cant do tgat with the XM 9 HW MSI T
I get clear images up to my pontoons top speed of 20 mph with 2d. The side and down not so much but i getthem up to about 12 mph. It looks like you could put a high speed ducer on your port side pod. The water looked pretty clean there.
What speed do you lose images?
Catfish Edge I lose it at 8mph but it freezes up at well I’ve heard low voltage I bought new batteries still doing it I have a Lawrence 7TI
Check your wiring
Catfish Edge sounds good I’ll do that as soon as this rain Stops Ca is getting some good rain THANKS FOR YOUR-HELP SIR
@@stevebugmanduncan4145 Check my video on power cycle issues.
Catfish Edge I’ll check it out I was on the back waters this weekend here in Ca and it’s still doing thanks Oh also hooked a 20lb flat 🤙🏻
The pro installers say to tip the end of the big transducer down a bit and it will allow it to read at higher speeds. Also you have to lower the whole thing down a bit under the hull. So it is in full contract on plane or higher speeds. You always run a risk of hitting it on something. Great video & info about the pod boats like yours and mine. 👍
I want super clear and accurate images at scanning speeds so being perfectly level is what I'm looking for as that provides the best return. As far as lowering it, if the transducer shoots a rooster tail it's too low. Having the transducer too low will impact the speed of the boat and also cause the boat to list so it's best to keep it at or just above the bottom of the transom.
@@Catfishedge Just reading the comments after the video, but picking up lots of useful info from comments as well as videos. hanks again for the video and all that commented!
Yup I did the same. About 6-12inches below the haul line. I ended up getting some c133 stainless steal bar. 1/4 inch thickness. It is more clear than when the boat was in park.
My Garmin GT54 transducer still tracks cleanly at 45+ mph on my Tracker Pro Team 190 Mod V. Mounted roughly an inch further inboard than the factory mounting location (lower transom step) of the Lowrance system. Bottom of hull flush with the top 1/3 of the transducer. Hope this helps someone.
Very useful info for a guy like me who's new to boat fishing. Thanks Chad.
Thanks
I fought this for months speed up no bottom depth moved and adjusted transducer every way I could finally learned about through hull transducer in fiberglass boat easy to install and works perfect never loose bottom depth any speed using hds 12 live
Awesome! Glad you got it worked out!
It can be done with a large transducer. Placement is everything.
I have Helix 7 and loose depth at around 20 kmh, I'm in Australia so there for the kmh. 😉
So with a through hull transducer, you need a Y cable adapter, so your Humminbird can have both transducer feeds I to the back of your unit. Do you find this gives you less clear 2D scan results when you are feeding your unit 2 simultaneous sonar feeds at the same time?
I have a Lowrance hook2 5 splitshot. Everything works great till about 15 mph. The boat is a 2019 G3 20 center console
I have a 2020 g3 1710 with the same problem. What do I do about it?
@@jimmycraddock2726 I have no clue, even had the dealer look at it. Maybe get a through hall.
My garmin really never looses bottom even at high speeds and it’s on a baymaster with side scan and down scan transducer
Other than Ranger most manufacturers/dealers install a "shoot through" transducer. Ranger from the factory installs a true thru-hull transducer which is installed in a hole "through" the hull of the boat.
Yes but you can't use a through hull on a tin boat
What about losing depth once you start to get on plane and moving forward. I have a lowrance hook reveal it loses depth reading once I pick up speed comes back when I stop .
Video on my channel explains it
Lowrance hds gen 3 can still read down scan at 56mph
Good install!
I want to be able to read at 20MPH speeds. Can't mount through hull, however.
If you change you chart speed to 2/3 mph faster then your driving that should help also !
Solid 12, lose depth at 8 mph. Installed 2d transducer using Y cable but still no improvement. Will try inhull transducer next. What a pain!
Have fun!
I’ve been searching for a compatible high speed transducer for the Helix 7 MSI 3G
The one I mentioned will work with a splitter added.
What about a pontoon? It only has 2 places to put transducer.
I can still reliably get depth readings at 25 mph, but I loose all side and down imaging at around 7 mph.
Hummingbird Helix12 SI DI Mega.
Not made to work at those speeds
20' Seaark VFXCat with pods, one of my Lowrance units will maintain bottom and correct depth for the most part at 40, they side scan Lowrance does not like anything over 6 to 10 MPH and it goes crazy. Biggest mistake I have done was getting a Hook2 Triple Shot to get side scan. The transducer is so long they do not work. On my second unit now and out of warranty and it keeps screwing up and locking up. I think it is something in the Transducer now. All these monster units just don't work good on Aluminum boats.
It's the transducer size.
I opted for the triple shot also. I had good imaging to 15mph, but didn't hold. Constantly fussing with angles rather than fishing. Would gladly sacrifice side scan for the smaller transducer and reliable results
Im not so sure they work so good on fiberglass either. I have been fighting the bottom image all season this year on a new Garmin. I have spoken to Garmin many times via chat and gotten much advice. But the first guy said to me was to lower the transducer in the water. I did that and it made things better but I still get funky readings at different times, different water conditions such as weather, speed, etc. Everyone says the transducer is supossed to "skim" the water and I always went by that rule and dismissed the guy in the chat at Garmin about lowering the transducer. I am beginning to think he is right. I have the transducer as low as it can go for the moment. I either have to pull the boat and drill new holes to get the transducer lower or get the boat to a beach where there is very little traffic and drill new holes and lower it then. And just in case your wondering, I am using a Stern Saver for the transducer mount so I am not worried about water breaching the tansom. Either way, I am not too crazy about these new transducers or the "over bearing" amount of settings for it. I can go on and on, but I dont want to get off topic. Im beginning to think that the old school stuff may still have its merits.
I have a Ranger Aluminum RT 178. So no thru hull on an aluminum? I have floatation material in my hull, but it does not look like I have same material in the stern near the transom. Anything over 10 MPH, my depth numbers blink true depth, then just blink inaccurate depths throughout run time. By the time i get to my fishing spot, I have to turn off the meter and power it back up. Most times, but not all the time, the meter will “catch up” to true bottom reading and depth. Very inconvenient! I have a Lowrance Hook7 on my console. I’m sorry, I don’t know which transducer it is, but it is not a high speed transducer. Help!
About 7 to 8 with the Humminbird Helix DI
That's about normal. Have you looked at the high speed transducer?
@@Catfishedge Didn't even think about it till I watched your video but I will be looking into it. Thanks for your advice and another great video.
Great video
How do you like your new boat ?
I love my EasyCat
Love it!
Does anyone know if there is any truth to turning the transducer around as the sonar component in the transducer is at the front where the cable enters and turning it around helps to eliminate some noise.
Zero truth
I turned my 3 in 1 around and hey presto! Problem solved 🤷🏻♂️
Some say with that particular ducer it works better backwards due to the material used being more concentrated on the end where the cable enters the transducer.
I'd like to see Hummingbird, or any Sonar manufacturer, incorporate an auto feature where screen speed on the unit increases automatically with the increase in boat speed.
That would be counterproductive to finding fish and getting good images
@@Catfishedge yeah I see your point... thanks for the info. Hopefully Texas has recovered from the winter storm.
Mine loses depth and imaging readings at just under 6 miles an hour… I’m new to all this, but I did follow the manual. I’m running the Helix 5 DI GPS G2 unit with the standard transducer that came with it. I get awesome readings when going under 6 miles an hour. It would be really nice to at least get depth readings at higher speeds. My next move is the lower the angle of the transducer by one notch. Any suggestions ?
Yes, all covered in the video.
ok. good explanation
Thanks
I'm assuming its the same on a pontoon, probably compounded by the turbulence around the logs. My question is this. When I first installed the graph and transducer, it worked perfectly, even at 23-24mph. All of a sudden it started losing the depth and the mapping (garmin striker 4 plus with quick draw contour) i figured i had hit some floating wood and knocked the transducer off or broken the mount. Checked it out yesterday and everything was still tight. Any other suggestions? I dont know why it worked perfectly for 2-3 trips, then all of a sudden I'm having problems, even at 6-8 mph. It will randomly start reading right while underway, then will cut out again. Idk if I need to pull it out of the water and try to remount it, but I have limited options on where to mount it. Any advice would be helpful.
I am experiencing the exact same thing on my pontoon. Worked fine, even at higher speeds. Now it loses depth at about 6mph. We have a Hummingbird Helix 7 with a Chirp transducer.
Any suggestions would be great!
Pretty sad, my old lowrance di 5 could handle top speed at around 37mph no issues... my new 1k humminbird 7si can't handle 8mph. Looks like the old lowrance isn't leaving the helm quite yet lol I run rivers all the time, it just feels wrong not having graphs while zipping around
We have a new pontoon and pissed away many hours last summer trying to make our Lowrance Hook2 7X depth finder work. By lowering it just below the pontoon we got a slight improvement, but the reading would still disappear at about 5pmh. And often it would not return after slowing down so we repeatedly have to reboot it. After seeing all these videos and user group postings, I am astounded that boat and fish finder manufacturers are indifferent to this frequent customer frustration. And we all shell out hundreds of dollars for crappy technology that offers all kinds of flashy things we don't need, yet won't easily and reliably tell us depth and the location of a few fish. Is that really too much to ask?
If you lose 2D sonar you will lose DI just after that as... 2D sonar is what we use to "range' the DI display. DI does not provide depth. The range is set off of the digital depth from 2D sonar.
I’ve got a Helix 9 G2N. Mine shows double depth 60-70% of the time. Can’t make an accurate autochart map because of it. Anyone know what I need to do? I’ve tried adjusting sensitivity in all directions and that doesn’t help. Thanks.
I’m running the stock transducer.
Run the update. It will fix the double bottom issue.
@@Catfishedge Thanks. I’ll do that!
I lose everything at 10 mph. Doesn't bother me much unless I get on an unfamiliar lake.
6-7mph. Hummingbird helix 12.
That's about normal for most people!
Catfish Edge I’m still tweaking it a lot. I have a excel catfish pro. The whole transom is gliding on the water when I’m on plane. Your videos been a lot of help. Thanks for your time.
@@bobbyfinley4600 Thanks!
Samething, i loose it at about 4 or 5 miles with fiberglass boat, and i got nothing to interfear with it, and its properly mounted.
I cant ever see my conon balls, i gota put te boat in nutrel,
(in and outa gear) in order to see my rig's, very anoying.
I watched an other video, the guy was running around tge lake at 18- 19 mh, and still marking fish, now maybe he had a diffrent transducer,
But i deffinitly cant do tgat with the XM 9 HW MSI T
Through hull
High speed transducer and I’m still losing it at 8mph.
I’m going to put the transducer lower in the water and see how it performsz
Location!
I get clear images up to my pontoons top speed of 20 mph with 2d. The side and down not so much but i getthem up to about 12 mph. It looks like you could put a high speed ducer on your port side pod. The water looked pretty clean there.
That's good!
This whole video just to be told I need a smaller transducer
This whole comment just to complain.