Sir, thank you so much for sharing your talent and thoughts regarding the shower pan . I’m 70 , and all my life I’ve been a DIY . The past 10 years however have taken quite a bit away from me . Body breaking down and such.. Having watched your video several times and taking notes , I’m prepared to redo the shower in our home by removing the tub and just having the shower. You have helped us tremendously. Thank you , once it’s completed. , I’ll send you before and after photos . Thanks again , you have been more than helpful, you have been very inspiring . Bless you and have a great day.. George
@@SgtDonovan did he ever send before and afters ?? This inspired me along with your video to build the shower I was contemplating on paying someone to build just because I was scared to mess it up but I guess I won’t learn if I never try
I've just spent the last 4 hours racking my brain on how to do my first tile project in a basement, with the client willing to pay to let me learn, I said no 3 times to them, said to hire a professional tile person, because it would be $$$ to pay me to learn. I just finished much of the framing and drywall around the bathroom, and now to the curbless shower pan, you just explained to me WHY things are done, so that I can figure out the appropriate HOW for this situation. I just stopped myself from installing the backerboard prior to the shower pan pre slope on the concrete, im glad I did
Great video. Proper installation video on shower pans is rare. So few installers do the initial mud job. It is critical to pitch the pan. So many failures are due to water sitting in the pan causing mold/mildew growth in grout joints. A thumbs up to you.
From a lot of research I have done, I have seen tilers doing duroc after the shower pan is done and not to install duroc within the pan but about a 1/4 to 1/2” above the pan
This guys a hack that did many wrong steps. He didn't level his parameters in order to screed (1/4 inch drop per square foot) off the drain which should be done during both mud steps in order to create the proper slope. He never did a 24 hour water test for his membrane install before he did his pan.The shower pan membrane he used was to short, it's supposed to wrap the curb completely and go up the walls roughly 6-9 inches past the pan. You're also required to use prefabricated corners where the membrane wraps the curb and wall which you chemical weld together to ensure full water resistance. You don't put any sort of backer board directly in the pan because it will wick water even with slope, should be at least an inch away and often times much higher if the walls will be floated. Didn't see any sort of red guard or other form of liquid based waterproofing, etc. It's like he made every error on purpose to make a "What not to do" video. Oh, and measuring off the ceiling to set a line for his pan in order to "correct" any slanting from tiles is literally is one of the most cringe worthy things I've ever see in a trades video. NO tile setter would alter his pan based of the ceiling because the pan slope is infinity more important that a few angled cuts close to the ceiling.
Wow. What an excellent, informative, straightforward, video. No wasting time, great explanations, answered questions, explained exactly what was going on, including any "tips, tricks, or shortcuts" I've watched a lot of remodel videos during the two years I've owned a fixer-upper. And this. This is the kind of content I really want to see.
Finally. An instructional video that won't cause you to replace your shower a year later. That's the way a shower pan should be done! One installer to another, I tip my hat to you. I like to do do these same simple tricks...they make life easier.
As a handyman I like to polish up the skill sets I already have. I love how simple this was and I know I can definitely achieve this now. Thanks for keeping it simple.
Best video ever on RUclips. Didn’t missed a step. None of the other videos shows installing tar paper on plywood. The instructions on the mortar says not to place mortar directly on top of plywood . I’ve seen installers ignore this step.
I really have to Sincerely Thank You for this excellent video. Being neither a plumber or mason, I learned a whole lot and now know how to approach a project I'm working on. Converting what was a storage space to a bathroom. The narration was to the point and covered the critical steps without unnecessary commentary. Really appreciate your great craftsmanship. Continued success and Blessings!👍🏻
@@MrDusty66 The strength of the concrete varies with the amount of water in the mix. You need some water to get the concrete to an activated form so that all of it has some water to achieve close to maximum strength. As you add more water so that the concrete becomes sloppy or soupy, the finished strength drops off significantly.
Good video I screwed up and put in tile shower without a pan so I had to rip floor up and picked your video to do this project yours was the best explained thank you
Best video out there on this topic. I’ve watched a ton and most want you to watch individual videos on every little part of the job where the guy spends 45 minutes explaining the specific job he is on which means nothing to us. Great job! Keep it up!
Currently in the process of redoing our shower and I have watched and rewatched this so many times. It has made this process so much easier to do!! Thank you for the quality content!
Very good instructional tutorial 👌. We will be doing a custom shower in our shabin (shed to cabin) and this video got me over the "where to start" hump. Thank you.
Thank you, SgtDonovan - Your video was the one I kept coming back to, to build my first shower. I just finished grouting the whole thing yesterday. Really appreciate your help. :)
Looks good. Only things that I do different is in the corners where you fold the liner when you don't have that gap to tuck it into the wall I just chisel a notch to recess it enough to where it wont affect the durock
I went to like this video and saw it was already liked! Didn't realize I saw it before even after watching the whole video again. Thank you for what you shared.
Thanks for the great video! Would love to see how you would do this for a walk in shower floor!!! I have a 115 year old house and I’m making a huge bathroom with a walk-in. Terrible and few contractors in my area so decided to do it myself! 😁
Thank you so much....I will watch this many times...I am no longer afraid of the pan....very well done and very well explained. The ONLY thing that bothered me is that you were not wearing a mask when you mixed the mud base....you only have one set of lungs and I am sure I speak for all of use...we need you man.. Thank you again for taking the time to do this....what an amazing talent you are...
I second the previous comment. Notch all the corner 2x6 before their installed. Hey Sarge, this is the first I've seen of your work and it is really well done. I hope there is more.
Great and proper way to build a shower pan base. Drypacking underneath the liner with tar paper is a good step to move the water to the weep holes. The small rocks around the weeping holes is another fantastic idea. Lastly, 2 coats of redguard would make this shower last 25+ years with porcelain mosaic tiles at the sides and base. Not the garbage marble stuff.
Very true! Marble is very porous and high maintenance. Porcelain is the complete opposite. I love porcelain in water area applications! And true on that Redguard as well! 👍
I love just listening and watching you work. Very relaxing! Another video recommends placing the cement board up so it does not touch the final mortar bed, paint everything with waterproof membrane, then do the floor tile. This way the floor does not touch the cement board on the wall at all. I am redoing an old 1950's tile shower floor pan. I am trying to save all but the bottom 6 inches of the old tile.
I watched that same video yesterday and then used it as a reference while watching this one to compare the different methods. Was wondering if that guy was going to chime in the comment section with some critiques.
@@TheBvirgilio86 I don't see any disadvantage of raising the cement board an inch or so off the pan, and a lot of potential advantages. I think modern code does not require waterproofing of the shower walls if you use cement board, but many people seem to recommend it. Maybe it is to make up for poor tiling technique that leaves voids behind the tiles? Old school, it was just really thick mortar and lathe, double the thickness of modern cement board, it did not extend into the pan, and it lasted 65 years and counting. Nowadays, people tear out perfectly good showers because they look "dated" after 20 years. No need to make them last longer than necessary!
One trick I’ve learned when using a square drain....screw in an old round drain with the top of the drain being the top of the mortar bed. Pack tight flush with the top of the drain. Then take a piece of wood with two screws a couple inches apart or a pair of needle nose, etc, to help unscrew the drain about a 1/8 or 1/4” higher than pan, smooth around drain using the edge of the rim as a guide against trowel. Once smooth, continue to totally unscrew round drain and then install square drain down to accommodate tile thickness/mortar. This can always be adjusted up/down.
I thought that I learned really good info on your approach to laying a bed layer over tar paper and the water proofing membrain over the first layer and corner tucking. Border layer to level 3-4 inch wide, slooping to the pebbles to allow wipe holes to be open for the moisture to flow out and away to prevent any possible failure. I'll be researching the drain system that have the wipe holes. So, the part about leaving a gap for the backing board over the membrane seems feasible, I'll check on it, too. Over all, great presentation, thanks.
Hot damn! This is the first video I've seen the setter beat and pack his mud bed, and not use hardy crapper board.. meshed all his seams and corners... skimmed them with thinset. You got skills bud! I'll give credit, when it's due
I now use a spiral shaft tool to mix my mortar. Just pour water and a bag of mortar in a 7gallon plastic bucket. Attach spiral to a 1/2hp drill and in 3 easy minutes it is mixed up. Very easy on the back.
By far the best video I've found on this subject! Thanks for the step by step and narration. After watching this I have much more confidence going into this!
Thanks, Sarge! I've got to say I struggled to get my mortar consistency anywhere near yours. Always thought it was dry in the hopper and started smoothing it into soup. D'oh! I got it nailed down though after a little time to dry and will be tiling soon I hope. I sure appreciate your insight and happy belated Veterans Day!
Thank you very much for sharing this video. I am currently renovating my bathroom and I am worried I won't waterproof it enough and turn my house into a mush. I watched the Kerdi system over and over, including so many fails that I thought there must be a better way.
Great to see young craftsman like you. Very inspiring, our Grandchildren have mastered video games but wouldn't know a coping saw from a hamburger or a spark plug from a mouse. Good luck with the house and God Bless.
Hey thank you for an awesome video. I've watched hundreds literally and this is one of the best demo with details that I've seen. I'm a 20 year home remodeling guy so I've seen lots and done lots of projects. You are the man!!!
Good job! There's more than one way to it, but I like to see how other professionals do it their way. One thing that I could suggest after the liner is installed, I add a 1/4" wood shim from the top of the liner to the ceiling on each stud. You can buy them premade or rip some from a 2"x4"x8' board. This will eliminate the kick out at the bottom giving you a straight wall from floor to ceiling. (Do not place a screw below the shim when installing your concrete board.) I hope that this was helpful. Keep up the good work!
Hi, I was reading your comment and as a lifelong carpenter im,always looking for better ways to,do things but i dis not understand your explanation of the whole 1/4 shim idea Could you clarify Thank you
@@vincent7543 The shim keeps your cement board from kicking out at the bottom where you have the liner .It makes the walls more plum for your tile work
Sarge, thank you, ive been asked to be the in house tile guy, which i really appreciate, your knowledge and videos are going to help me so much , thank u
Love the video. The only advice I would give is to not put your backer inside the pan. If water gets to the edges of the backer it will wick up into the wall and rot out your framing
That shouldn't happen once you waterproof it. I COMPLETELY disagree that the concrete board shouldn't be in the pan. Inside the pan is exactly where it should be done. With that and then waterproofing, you have a failproof shower.
Durning demos it wickes up the walls I’ve noticed Newer and better waterproofing makes it not as important but I make level line at 371/2 and level durock out bed.
T A question, I’ve seen this a bit now, a lot of people are saying you shouldn’t put the cement backer board until you’ve finished your 2nd pitch mortar floor, and keep the cement board 1/8-1/4 above the mortar line, apps your 2 coats of water proof paint and then go back and tile as normal. Supposedly this method prevents water buildup because eventually cement board embedded into the pan itself deteriorates creating a small irrigation like system on all edges of the pan because it was cement board and not mortar So this is one example |_ And this is the method I’m bringing up I_ but the bottom mortar bed would be flush against the liner? Enlighten me
@@imchaotix5450 I was thinking the same thing. I am doing a shower right now and yesterday I found this style that I have never seen before, after removing the backer board i now have a moat all around the pan that has 2 8ths inch of water on all sides. Can I fill in the gap and continue if the water drains out or should I do a whole new pan from scratch? I don't realy want to add 3 days work ( tight schedule) or added cost to the client unless absolutely necessary. When I do a pan, its complete before any backerboard is installed.
IdemRedd I’m no professional but I imagine if you let it completely dry out and add in the mortar to fill the gap and smooth it out let it dry as normal, they should bond normally since they are the same material, then go from there with the backer board etc
Thank you for a great video. I'm preparing to build a shower pan in a 100 year old outbuilding and this is on my short list of reference resources. I'll be joining your Patreon network. With an 80 year old farm house I have lots of projects ahead. :-)
@@damionmarkham9835 I live so far out in the country I can't get anyone to even bid a job, much less show up and do the work. The job turned out great though, thanks for your concern.
@@daleedwards7940 soory Dale , I wasn't thinking when I commented. I'm watching videos on tiling garage floors to see if its different then a standard floor and came across this vidio. I got stupid and commented because the tile pan is one thing I actually make money off from my knowledge with little physical work . As you probably found out tile work is very labor intensive. I'm talking about the actual vinyl pan install is relatively easy . The ridge and floating require knowledge and effort aswell as the mixing and carrying. Anyway hope your project turned out great and fantastic new year . Sorry I get a little pissy when people give away my trade secrets, I like to eat food and sleep inside houses too
@@damionmarkham9835 No worries at all Damion. Happy New Year to you as well ! PS. I've laid a lot of tile, but never a garage floor...wish I could help you out.
Here in Florida we put a shower liner up 6' all around and sandwiched between the floor drain then do the mud cause with time water filters through the mortar.
Sgt Donovan, First off Thank You for your service! Secondly thank you for your video it was pretty much what I had in mind to do but it was very reaffirming! Best video I've watched on shower pans!SSgt Pennock
YES. you are the man. all the other videos I watched assumed I knew a whole bunch of stuff that I certainly did not and left my head spinning. I am going to embark upon a shower building adventure very soon thanks to your video - you cleared up a lot of things for me - subscribed!
Wow! Great video...after watching I've decided to buy a cast iron porcelain shower pan for our remodel job. My old Medicare knees can't do this. Now I understand the attention to detail to do the job right.
Great video, quality and sound. Thanks for posting this! I use to do tile work through college, but its been a while and I'm going to re-do our master shower soon so I needed a re-fresher, this was perfect!
Some installers don't hang the board until the mortar bed is complete and floor tile set. Then they leave a 1/2" or so gap between the wallboard and the top of the floor tile reducing the potential for water to wick up the cement board. The only thing touching the floor is waterproofing membrane and tile/grout
It’s been a year since you did your own shower. How is it working out? Have you found any leaking? I’m just curious. Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Watching this video. Your skill seems like u got taught by someone OLD SCHOOL. YOUR SKILL IS AWESOME. THANK YOU VERY MUCH WHO CAN'T AFFORD TO HIRE SOMEONE. ANGIE-OHIO
I'm remodeling my bathroom I'm 63 year old female and after this video I feel like I can do it. I was going to give up I just put preformed in there but this gives me hope you are so good at explaining this. Thanks🙂
It is my experience that you should leave a 1/2" to 3/4" gap between the wall backer and the finish layer of concrete floor. Otherwise you will get seeping. You may do some research on this. Great video though. Nice work man!
@@mikhailsookoor9702 No unless you use a different fabric membrane but his liner should be much higher on perimieter and better to redguard hardiebacker first then build pan that way water doesnt travel up hardie over the liner. This solves the water seeping up problem, as Redguard waterproofing membrane overlaps the oatey pan liner under the mortar bed.
@@mikhailsookoor9702 you want any moisture that seeps thru the wall tiles to drain into the floor drain. Into the shower pan not behind it. Because even small amounts of moisture can cause rot,mold,and other damages. The pvc shower pan will last decades unless improperly installed. And if draining properly no issues with mold, mildew or rotting boards.
yes especially explaining how to keep water from makeing it's way threw the durorock on the inside 2 in edge the way I've done them before is only put 3 screws and before you leave them for good pull them back out and pump as much silcon in the hole as you can then I go to church and pray it doesn't leak !
Good video, if you are not confident with sloping the area free hand you can rip some tapered timber x 4 pieces (like a long wedge) at the required degree of slope, place the high end in each corner with the pointy end at the shower drain, then cement in place, when you have laid cement mix remove the timber and fill the void left with cement...
Aug 2023, I decided to do my first DIY bathroom renovation and now I am watching videos in RUclips. I have a better idea of what to do now in my project. From one Sgt devil dog to another one, thank you and OoRah.
Great job, if you are going todo this for a living try the mixing bucket, it will save you time in mixing mud. And also take wire mesh and nail only on the outside of curve . An hand fold it over curve. And let the second mud bed hold it down, and hand float the curve. Now you will not have nails in your shower pan. Then you can waterproof it
SgtDonovan Nice job. I like to use the pitch perfect curb forms. They’re not cheap but worth the money to get a perfect curb. They snap together and you screw them to the outside of the curb so you have no penetrations in the curb liner. You fill the plastic cage with mortar and strike it off. I have a lot of respect for the old timers who can hand float a curb over mesh. I tried it once and made a bit of a mess I had to grind and patch with thin set. I like to use redgard over the durarock Wall board. It’s not cheap but it makes for a dry shower. Instead of the durarock drying to the moisture barrier behind the durarock the moisture stays on the inside. This could be beneficial in a higher use shower in a family bath. The extra added benefit is the redgard keeps the durarock from sucking your thinset dry. You get more working time on the walls. I always redgard the curb too - most failures happen at the curb. If I’m framing the walls I always leave a gap in the corners to tuck the liner in like you did. I’ll even sneak a sawzall blade in between the studs and cut a notch in existing corner studs if they are tight.
Today was a first. I have done many pans in my time. Never have i had one fail...not even the first i did which probably werent as good as they should be. I just did one ..and the next day it was cracked and lifting. I tore it out...flipped it over and most of it was portland cement gray...but 1/4 of it was brown... completely dry underneath...it was a completely different product. All had the same moisture content when mixed. It was solid brown all the way thru...like it was sand,silica, and lime. I think i got a bag that was missing the portland !! Was all custom float bed mortar.
Jan Romanosky can you explain me please? I had my total master bath remodeled and now, after 2 years my shower had a pretty bad leaking and damage all my bedroom laminate floor. I'm very disappointed with the waste money. Can you help please?
seemed to have skip the part i was looking for and that was how to put the cement board on the sill. Did you nail the cement board through the liner and siliconed over the nails?
Good video. I have tiled bath and shower surrounds, but never a pan. One thought - maybe cover the walls with plastic before the cement board. This adds cheap water-proofing.
Never bring down concrete board all the way down to liner. Leave 2 1/2 inches higher than liner and by the time you pour your mortar you end up with at least 1/2 inch gap. This gap will prevent water from concrete floor to jump into the concrete concrete board and then into wood studs. Always leave a gap between concrete floor and concrete board.
Do you really have to slope it then put the liner in and slope it again and then you can use mortar? Can’t you just slope it once put the liner in a then start tiling
@@Xprototype12x dad and I used to remove shower floors and we would discover water in the concrete and there was no preslope some tile guys would put lead shower pans and because quemicals in the mortar plus water the lead would corrode so that meant that there was always water in the shower floor. Sometimes water had a terrible odor . So you can do it anyway you want to but as for me a 5000 shower I prefer to be in the safe side
@joshthull4154 thank you that their purpose I couldn't figure out so water that gets past the top tile n morter will run down to the weep holes in Theory right ? But how would water get past the motrer/thinset is it permeable? I thought It was waterproof like well concrete please add anything 🙏
This is the exact way to do it. Not a flat liner that causes problems down the road when the installer has long gone. I've personally have had to re and re 35 townhome showers with flat liners. Separated tiles from the floor flexing, missing grout and major mold and mildew infiltration causing many of the owners to get sick.
Yeah so far you've got the best video I've seen yet because I know nothing about tile but I've talked to a lot of my friends in the construction trade I used to be the construction trade myself I was a framer that I came out a cabinet guy for a few years and then I went into electrical now on the second air electrician apprentice. But yeah thank you so much for the video I went ahead and subscribed and I showed one of my videos off to you so one of my buddies and he was like yeah this dude's freaking right on top of what you need to do in your house . That's what he told me.
The silicone under the pan is there to form a gasket. Nothing more. It will rarely be exposed to water. It is there just incase the drain backs up. If the drain is working properly it should not get wet.
Man thanks to this video specifically my pan came out way nicer than expected. Thank you so much for the thourough and entertaining video.
I have an
Your a former devil dog? Semper Fi tufelhunden
Best common sense pan video I've seen yet
@@LALeggs l88l
I see you Lil cuz
Ive been building pans,for yrs. I learned a few more tricks from you. You really made an exceptional how-too. Thank you.
Sir, thank you so much for sharing your talent and thoughts regarding the shower pan . I’m 70 , and all my life I’ve been a DIY . The past 10 years however have taken quite a bit away from me . Body breaking down and such.. Having watched your video several times and taking notes , I’m prepared to redo the shower in our home by removing the tub and just having the shower. You have helped us tremendously. Thank you , once it’s completed. , I’ll send you before and after photos . Thanks again , you have been more than helpful, you have been very inspiring . Bless you and have a great day.. George
Thank you so much for that. That made my day! Please keep me updated.. I look forward to seeing the results!
Me too
@@SgtDonovan did he ever send before and afters ?? This inspired me along with your video to build the shower I was contemplating on paying someone to build just because I was scared to mess it up but I guess I won’t learn if I never try
I followed you instructions 2 years ago and the shower pan on a custom shower is still holding up! No callbacks or complaints from customer
I've just spent the last 4 hours racking my brain on how to do my first tile project in a basement, with the client willing to pay to let me learn, I said no 3 times to them, said to hire a professional tile person, because it would be $$$ to pay me to learn. I just finished much of the framing and drywall around the bathroom, and now to the curbless shower pan, you just explained to me WHY things are done, so that I can figure out the appropriate HOW for this situation. I just stopped myself from installing the backerboard prior to the shower pan pre slope on the concrete, im glad I did
Finally a video of the correct way to install the shower pan! And thanks for not forgetting the gravel for the drain weep holes!
Co-worker shared this link with me and so glad she did. Appreciate you time in putting this together.
Great video. Proper installation video on shower pans is rare. So few installers do the initial mud job. It is critical to pitch the pan. So many failures are due to water sitting in the pan causing mold/mildew growth in grout joints. A thumbs up to you.
Why you did not use chicken wire?
@@fidelperez1203You cray cray 😜
From a lot of research I have done, I have seen tilers doing duroc after the shower pan is done and not to install duroc within the pan but about a 1/4 to 1/2” above the pan
This guys a hack that did many wrong steps. He didn't level his parameters in order to screed (1/4 inch drop per square foot) off the drain which should be done during both mud steps in order to create the proper slope. He never did a 24 hour water test for his membrane install before he did his pan.The shower pan membrane he used was to short, it's supposed to wrap the curb completely and go up the walls roughly 6-9 inches past the pan. You're also required to use prefabricated corners where the membrane wraps the curb and wall which you chemical weld together to ensure full water resistance. You don't put any sort of backer board directly in the pan because it will wick water even with slope, should be at least an inch away and often times much higher if the walls will be floated. Didn't see any sort of red guard or other form of liquid based waterproofing, etc. It's like he made every error on purpose to make a "What not to do" video. Oh, and measuring off the ceiling to set a line for his pan in order to "correct" any slanting from tiles is literally is one of the most cringe worthy things I've ever see in a trades video. NO tile setter would alter his pan based of the ceiling because the pan slope is infinity more important that a few angled cuts close to the ceiling.
Wow. What an excellent, informative, straightforward, video. No wasting time, great explanations, answered questions, explained exactly what was going on, including any "tips, tricks, or shortcuts"
I've watched a lot of remodel videos during the two years I've owned a fixer-upper. And this. This is the kind of content I really want to see.
He's military. I would expect no less. Don't dawdle... I hate that. Just cut to it. This is an A+ video.
Finally. An instructional video that won't cause you to replace your shower a year later. That's the way a shower pan should be done! One installer to another, I tip my hat to you. I like to do do these same simple tricks...they make life easier.
Andrey Sheyfer j)
As a handyman I like to polish up the skill sets I already have. I love how simple this was and I know I can definitely achieve this now. Thanks for keeping it simple.
I appreciate it!
Best video I've seen. Here in South Africa we don't generally build this way, so finding this kind of information is so difficult. Thank you.
Probably your best video yet. Showing each step was great stuff. Never enough of this information available. Looks good.
Best video ever on RUclips. Didn’t missed a step.
None of the other videos shows installing tar paper on plywood.
The instructions on the mortar says not to place mortar directly on top of plywood . I’ve seen installers ignore this step.
Best/easiest to follow shower pan video on RUclips by far!! Thank you!!
I really have to Sincerely Thank You for this excellent video. Being neither a plumber or mason, I learned a whole lot and now know how to approach a project I'm working on. Converting what was a storage space to a bathroom.
The narration was to the point and covered the critical steps without unnecessary commentary.
Really appreciate your great craftsmanship.
Continued success and Blessings!👍🏻
Pro-tip: Keep back a gallon or so of the dry mix so that if you do accidentally over-water it, then you've got a bit of extra dry to work with.
I used this pro-tip last night and can confirm it saved my butt! Thanks!
Good one. Also read the bag. It will.tell you how much water. Pour 3/4 of.that right away(makes mixing easier)
Exactly
Question from a newbie, why do you need the mix to be so dry?
@@MrDusty66 The strength of the concrete varies with the amount of water in the mix. You need some water to get the concrete to an activated form so that all of it has some water to achieve close to maximum strength. As you add more water so that the concrete becomes sloppy or soupy, the finished strength drops off significantly.
Good video I screwed up and put in tile shower without a pan so I had to rip floor up and picked your video to do this project yours was the best explained thank you
Best video out there on this topic. I’ve watched a ton and most want you to watch individual videos on every little part of the job where the guy spends 45 minutes explaining the specific job he is on which means nothing to us. Great job! Keep it up!
Alex Sutherland I appreciate the kind words.
This is the best instructional video on how to install a mortar pan. Thank you
Currently in the process of redoing our shower and I have watched and rewatched this so many times. It has made this process so much easier to do!! Thank you for the quality content!
Very thorough explanations, good pace for viewing and allowing time to understand the steps involved. Thanks.
I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to record this video and share your skills n tricks. The finished product looks perfect :)
Very good instructional tutorial 👌. We will be doing a custom shower in our shabin (shed to cabin) and this video got me over the "where to start" hump. Thank you.
Thank you, SgtDonovan - Your video was the one I kept coming back to, to build my first shower. I just finished grouting the whole thing yesterday. Really appreciate your help. :)
Great video, thanks! I love the simple, "to the point" presentation without unnecessary talking.
Looks good. Only things that I do different is in the corners where you fold the liner when you don't have that gap to tuck it into the wall I just chisel a notch to recess it enough to where it wont affect the durock
Yep notch them studs 10inches 1/4
I went to like this video and saw it was already liked! Didn't realize I saw it before even after watching the whole video again. Thank you for what you shared.
Excellent delivery. Calm and instructional. Building a shower pan I find very intimidating but this helps a lot. Thank you
Couldn’t agree more with this comment. Nicely done Sgt Donovan!
¹¹
Installed many pans and I never used rocks for weep holes. That makes sense. Thanks, you made a good video.
Beautifully done!!! Great process and best way to tackle a shower floor and protect the subfloor! 🙏
You are a G. One of the best how tos I have seen! Love how consistent and thorough you are. Thank You!
Thanks for the great video! Would love to see how you would do this for a walk in shower floor!!! I have a 115 year old house and I’m making a huge bathroom with a walk-in. Terrible and few contractors in my area so decided to do it myself! 😁
Thank you so much....I will watch this many times...I am no longer afraid of the pan....very well done and very well explained.
The ONLY thing that bothered me is that you were not wearing a mask when you mixed the mud base....you only have one set of lungs and I am sure I speak for all of use...we need you man..
Thank you again for taking the time to do this....what an amazing talent you are...
I second the previous comment. Notch all the corner 2x6 before their installed.
Hey Sarge, this is the first I've seen of your work and it is really well done. I hope there is more.
By the far the most simple and concise video out there.
Great and proper way to build a shower pan base. Drypacking underneath the liner with tar paper is a good step to move the water to the weep holes. The small rocks around the weeping holes is another fantastic idea. Lastly, 2 coats of redguard would make this shower last 25+ years with porcelain mosaic tiles at the sides and base. Not the garbage marble stuff.
Very true! Marble is very porous and high maintenance. Porcelain is the complete opposite. I love porcelain in water area applications! And true on that Redguard as well! 👍
Do you need the tar paper if the house is single level on a concrete foundation?
Well this old tecknik is shit to much work use ditra membrane faster easer to
I love just listening and watching you work. Very relaxing! Another video recommends placing the cement board up so it does not touch the final mortar bed, paint everything with waterproof membrane, then do the floor tile. This way the floor does not touch the cement board on the wall at all. I am redoing an old 1950's tile shower floor pan. I am trying to save all but the bottom 6 inches of the old tile.
I watched that same video yesterday and then used it as a reference while watching this one to compare the different methods. Was wondering if that guy was going to chime in the comment section with some critiques.
@@TheBvirgilio86 I don't see any disadvantage of raising the cement board an inch or so off the pan, and a lot of potential advantages. I think modern code does not require waterproofing of the shower walls if you use cement board, but many people seem to recommend it. Maybe it is to make up for poor tiling technique that leaves voids behind the tiles? Old school, it was just really thick mortar and lathe, double the thickness of modern cement board, it did not extend into the pan, and it lasted 65 years and counting. Nowadays, people tear out perfectly good showers because they look "dated" after 20 years. No need to make them last longer than necessary!
One trick I’ve learned when using a square drain....screw in an old round drain with the top of the drain being the top of the mortar bed. Pack tight flush with the top of the drain. Then take a piece of wood with two screws a couple inches apart or a pair of needle nose, etc, to help unscrew the drain about a 1/8 or 1/4” higher than pan, smooth around drain using the edge of the rim as a guide against trowel. Once smooth, continue to totally unscrew round drain and then install square drain down to accommodate tile thickness/mortar. This can always be adjusted up/down.
Wow your comment helped me out... I did it and it worked... Thanks you!!
Damn, wish I had seen that before I threw my old one away. Will a 2” pvc male adapter work? I could make a top.
I thought that I learned really good info on your approach to laying a bed layer over tar paper and the water proofing membrain over the first layer and corner tucking. Border layer to level 3-4 inch wide, slooping to the pebbles to allow wipe holes to be open for the moisture to flow out and away to prevent any possible failure. I'll be researching the drain system that have the wipe holes. So, the part about leaving a gap for the backing board over the membrane seems feasible, I'll check on it, too. Over all, great presentation, thanks.
This is exactly what I needed. Best pan installation video I've seen so far and I have seen a lot. Now I feel confident to do my shower floor
I agree! Thanks SgtDonovan for this very helpful video!
How did it go? Were you successful?
Coming from a master plumber…Great display of how it’s done!!
Hot damn! This is the first video I've seen the setter beat and pack his mud bed, and not use hardy crapper board.. meshed all his seams and corners... skimmed them with thinset. You got skills bud! I'll give credit, when it's due
What's the problem with hardi?
Bro what a exceptional step by step, I tip my hat to you
I now use a spiral shaft tool to mix my mortar. Just pour water and a bag of mortar in a 7gallon plastic bucket. Attach spiral to a 1/2hp drill and in 3 easy minutes it is mixed up. Very easy on the back.
T potier I’ve been wanting to try that for awhile. May do it like that on the next one to save my back.
Be careful not to get some plastic from sidewall of pail while mixing it's a pain in the arse getting them out.
Hi just came across this video. Thank you so much for making it. A lot of good details and commentary. Thanks again.
By far the best video I've found on this subject! Thanks for the step by step and narration. After watching this I have much more confidence going into this!
Thank you a ton for taking the time to break this down and explain all the steps! Awesome video
Thanks, Sarge! I've got to say I struggled to get my mortar consistency anywhere near yours. Always thought it was dry in the hopper and started smoothing it into soup. D'oh! I got it nailed down though after a little time to dry and will be tiling soon I hope. I sure appreciate your insight and happy belated Veterans Day!
I literally referred to this video like 10 times. Thank you. Best video on RUclips for this
Thank you very much for sharing this video. I am currently renovating my bathroom and I am worried I won't waterproof it enough and turn my house into a mush. I watched the Kerdi system over and over, including so many fails that I thought there must be a better way.
Best video I’ve seen about a this particular subject….by far. Good job, bro.
Great to see young craftsman like you. Very inspiring, our Grandchildren have mastered video games but wouldn't know a coping saw from a hamburger or a spark plug from a mouse. Good luck with the house and God Bless.
Hey thank you for an awesome video. I've watched hundreds literally and this is one of the best demo with details that I've seen. I'm a 20 year home remodeling guy so I've seen lots and done lots of projects. You are the man!!!
Good job! There's more than one way to it, but I like to see how other professionals do it their way. One thing that I could suggest after the liner is installed, I add a 1/4" wood shim from the top of the liner to the ceiling on each stud. You can buy them premade or rip some from a 2"x4"x8' board. This will eliminate the kick out at the bottom giving you a straight wall from floor to ceiling. (Do not place a screw below the shim when installing your concrete board.) I hope that this was helpful. Keep up the good work!
Hi,
I was reading your comment and as a lifelong carpenter im,always looking for better ways to,do things but i dis not understand your explanation of the whole 1/4 shim idea
Could you clarify
Thank you
@@vincent7543 The shim keeps your cement board from kicking out at the bottom where you have the liner .It makes the walls more plum for your tile work
@@myronsmith2114 especially in the corners where liner is folded , "Great idea" !
Great instructional video. Well done. I've used this to put in 2 shower pans.
Sarge, thank you, ive been asked to be the in house tile guy, which i really appreciate, your knowledge and videos are going to help me so much , thank u
Thanks for the kind words. I’m sure you’ll be a great tile guy! Good luck!
Love the video. The only advice I would give is to not put your backer inside the pan. If water gets to the edges of the backer it will wick up into the wall and rot out your framing
That shouldn't happen once you waterproof it. I COMPLETELY disagree that the concrete board shouldn't be in the pan. Inside the pan is exactly where it should be done. With that and then waterproofing, you have a failproof shower.
Durning demos it wickes up the walls I’ve noticed Newer and better waterproofing makes it not as important but I make level line at 371/2 and level durock out bed.
Good start for a 15k shower. I was a remodeling contractor 40 yrs. Not many of the setters do this type of good job.
T A question, I’ve seen this a bit now, a lot of people are saying you shouldn’t put the cement backer board until you’ve finished your 2nd pitch mortar floor, and keep the cement board 1/8-1/4 above the mortar line, apps your 2 coats of water proof paint and then go back and tile as normal. Supposedly this method prevents water buildup because eventually cement board embedded into the pan itself deteriorates creating a small irrigation like system on all edges of the pan because it was cement board and not mortar
So this is one example |_
And this is the method I’m bringing up I_ but the bottom mortar bed would be flush against the liner? Enlighten me
@@imchaotix5450
I was thinking the same thing.
I am doing a shower right now and yesterday I found this style that I have never seen before, after removing the backer board i now have a moat all around the pan that has 2 8ths inch of water on all sides. Can I fill in the gap and continue if the water drains out or should I do a whole new pan from scratch? I don't realy want to add 3 days work ( tight schedule) or added cost to the client unless absolutely necessary.
When I do a pan, its complete before any backerboard is installed.
IdemRedd I’m no professional but I imagine if you let it completely dry out and add in the mortar to fill the gap and smooth it out let it dry as normal, they should bond normally since they are the same material, then go from there with the backer board etc
Great instructional video! Best I've found on the shower pan process. Thanks!
Best tutorial ever on how to do the shower! Thanks! New subscriber!
Thank you for a great video. I'm preparing to build a shower pan in a 100 year old outbuilding and this is on my short list of reference resources. I'll be joining your Patreon network. With an 80 year old farm house I have lots of projects ahead. :-)
wrong way to do this..
You'll pay this guys patrion but cant pay a tile guy . Dont see me makings vidios on your job
@@damionmarkham9835 I live so far out in the country I can't get anyone to even bid a job, much less show up and do the work. The job turned out great though, thanks for your concern.
@@daleedwards7940 soory Dale , I wasn't thinking when I commented. I'm watching videos on tiling garage floors to see if its different then a standard floor and came across this vidio.
I got stupid and commented because the tile pan is one thing I actually make money off from my knowledge with little physical work . As you probably found out tile work is very labor intensive.
I'm talking about the actual vinyl pan install is relatively easy . The ridge and floating require knowledge and effort aswell as the mixing and carrying.
Anyway hope your project turned out great and fantastic new year .
Sorry I get a little pissy when people give away my trade secrets, I like to eat food and sleep inside houses too
@@damionmarkham9835 No worries at all Damion. Happy New Year to you as well !
PS. I've laid a lot of tile, but never a garage floor...wish I could help you out.
Here in Florida we put a shower liner up 6' all around and sandwiched between the floor drain then do the mud cause with time water filters through the mortar.
Sgt Donovan, First off Thank You for your service! Secondly thank you for your video it was pretty much what I had in mind to do but it was very reaffirming! Best video I've watched on shower pans!SSgt Pennock
Thank you!
YES. you are the man. all the other videos I watched assumed I knew a whole bunch of stuff that I certainly did not and left my head spinning. I am going to embark upon a shower building adventure very soon thanks to your video - you cleared up a lot of things for me - subscribed!
Thanks so much! Good luck on your project and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions.
Great Video, Semper Fi, plan on watching it till I memorize!
Nice job Sgt, I will start my shower pan today and I will do it right thanks to you, Nice video, Thanks again.
i like using a ball as i go along making sure my slope is right
excellent idea!
Wow! Great video...after watching I've decided to buy a cast iron porcelain shower pan for our remodel job. My old Medicare knees can't do this. Now I understand the attention to detail to do the job right.
Great video, quality and sound. Thanks for posting this! I use to do tile work through college, but its been a while and I'm going to re-do our master shower soon so I needed a re-fresher, this was perfect!
Some installers don't hang the board until the mortar bed is complete and floor tile set. Then they leave a 1/2" or so gap between the wallboard and the top of the floor tile reducing the potential for water to wick up the cement board. The only thing touching the floor is waterproofing membrane and tile/grout
This is correct
About to start this project myself - excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to make it. Very well done!
It’s been a year since you did your own shower. How is it working out? Have you found any leaking? I’m just curious. Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Watching this video. Your skill seems like u got taught by someone OLD SCHOOL. YOUR SKILL IS AWESOME. THANK YOU VERY MUCH WHO CAN'T AFFORD TO HIRE SOMEONE. ANGIE-OHIO
You did great on this video thanks buddy
I'm remodeling my bathroom I'm 63 year old female and after this video I feel like I can do it. I was going to give up I just put preformed in there but this gives me hope you are so good at explaining this. Thanks🙂
It is my experience that you should leave a 1/2" to 3/4" gap between the wall backer and the finish layer of concrete floor. Otherwise you will get seeping. You may do some research on this. Great video though. Nice work man!
can you locate the shower pan liner on the inside face of the wall backer instead of behind it (where water can seep up)?
@@mikhailsookoor9702 No unless you use a different fabric membrane but his liner should be much higher on perimieter and better to redguard hardiebacker first then build pan that way water doesnt travel up hardie over the liner. This solves the water seeping up problem, as Redguard waterproofing membrane overlaps the oatey pan liner under the mortar bed.
@@mikhailsookoor9702 you want any moisture that seeps thru the wall tiles to drain into the floor drain. Into the shower pan not behind it. Because even small amounts of moisture can cause rot,mold,and other damages. The pvc shower pan will last decades unless improperly installed. And if draining properly no issues with mold, mildew or rotting boards.
My thoughts exactly.
Exactly
I will try your method to make me a shower pan, I like the way you explained the process.thank you
Nice vid. Do you have one showing how you finished off the curb?
yes especially explaining how to keep water from makeing it's way threw the durorock on the inside 2 in edge the way I've done them before is only put 3 screws and before you leave them for good pull them back out and pump as much silcon in the hole as you can then I go to church and pray it doesn't leak !
Good video, if you are not confident with sloping the area free hand you can rip some tapered timber x 4 pieces (like a long wedge) at the required degree of slope, place the high end in each corner with the pointy end at the shower drain, then cement in place, when you have laid cement mix remove the timber and fill the void left with cement...
What kind of concrete did you use for the top layer? Thanks, this is the best video on this subject!
Same stuff. Deck mud.
Do you follow the same mixture instructions for the top slab that you did for the bottom slab?
@@kenyonsutton9453 Yes. Same thing.
@@kylewinterstein208 I'm guessing it hardens up? Looks soft an to dry. Thanks for your help
Type-S 80-lb blue bags from Home Depot. The green bags good too but I prefer the blue.
Best explanation on RUclips..
Thanks from Volunteer State😄
Excellent video, sir. Clear shots of what matters and good step-by-step installation. Keep up the good work!
thank you so much for this video! i’ve watched it about 100 times while building one! you’ve been a lifesaver.
Glad it helped!
I love the video too, it also helped me out thanks so much
1 Portland cement to 5 parts sand and 1 part water is what I use.
Aug 2023, I decided to do my first DIY bathroom renovation and now I am watching videos in RUclips. I have a better idea of what to do now in my project. From one Sgt devil dog to another one, thank you and OoRah.
Great job, if you are going todo this for a living try the mixing bucket, it will save you time in mixing mud. And also take wire mesh and nail only on the outside of curve . An hand fold it over curve. And let the second mud bed hold it down, and hand float the curve. Now you will not have nails in your shower pan. Then you can waterproof it
Ask This Old Tile Man thanks for the tips!
SgtDonovan
Nice job.
I like to use the pitch perfect curb forms. They’re not cheap but worth the money to get a perfect curb. They snap together and you screw them to the outside of the curb so you have no penetrations in the curb liner. You fill the plastic cage with mortar and strike it off.
I have a lot of respect for the old timers who can hand float a curb over mesh. I tried it once and made a bit of a mess I had to grind and patch with thin set.
I like to use redgard over the durarock Wall board. It’s not cheap but it makes for a dry shower. Instead of the durarock drying to the moisture barrier behind the durarock the moisture stays on the inside. This could be beneficial in a higher use shower in a family bath. The extra added benefit is the redgard keeps the durarock from sucking your thinset dry. You get more working time on the walls. I always redgard the curb too - most failures happen at the curb.
If I’m framing the walls I always leave a gap in the corners to tuck the liner in like you did. I’ll even sneak a sawzall blade in between the studs and cut a notch in existing corner studs if they are tight.
Today was a first. I have done many pans in my time. Never have i had one fail...not even the first i did which probably werent as good as they should be. I just did one ..and the next day it was cracked and lifting. I tore it out...flipped it over and most of it was portland cement gray...but 1/4 of it was brown... completely dry underneath...it was a completely different product. All had the same moisture content when mixed. It was solid brown all the way thru...like it was sand,silica, and lime. I think i got a bag that was missing the portland !! Was all custom float bed mortar.
What determines the height of the drain for your second coat? Is there a minimum thickness for the base when it meets the drain?
Best video I've seen so far. Thank you!
This is the most legit shower pan. 100%
jimjd1969 can you explain how?
Jan Romanosky can you explain me please? I had my total master bath remodeled and now, after 2 years my shower had a pretty bad leaking and damage all my bedroom laminate floor. I'm very disappointed with the waste money. Can you help please?
Don't know if it's the camera or not but that is a shower for the whole neighborhood! Awesome!
M Ladd it was a big shower!
@@SgtDonovan lol! I'll say! How many different shower heads in all?
I’m pretty sure it just had one normal one and a rain head from the ceiling.
seemed to have skip the part i was looking for and that was how to put the cement board on the sill. Did you nail the cement board through the liner and siliconed over the nails?
I’d use wire mesh and cement over the curb liner that way you don’t drill holes through the liner.
@@matthewcarlson9886 …"
Good video. I have tiled bath and shower surrounds, but never a pan. One thought - maybe cover the walls with plastic before the cement board. This adds cheap water-proofing.
Never bring down concrete board all the way down to liner. Leave 2 1/2 inches higher than liner and by the time you pour your mortar you end up with at least 1/2 inch gap. This gap will prevent water from concrete floor to jump into the concrete concrete board and then into wood studs. Always leave a gap between concrete floor and concrete board.
Do you really have to slope it then put the liner in and slope it again and then you can use mortar? Can’t you just slope it once put the liner in a then start tiling
@@Xprototype12x dad and I used to remove shower floors and we would discover water in the concrete and there was no preslope some tile guys would put lead shower pans and because quemicals in the mortar plus water the lead would corrode so that meant that there was always water in the shower floor. Sometimes water had a terrible odor . So you can do it anyway you want to but as for me a 5000 shower I prefer to be in the safe side
@@Xprototype12x the substrate the liner sits on needs to be pitched in order to run to the weepholes
Don't you use some form of membrane, either roll on or sheet, to avoid water wicking through?
@joshthull4154 thank you that their purpose I couldn't figure out so water that gets past the top tile n morter will run down to the weep holes in Theory right ? But how would water get past the motrer/thinset is it permeable? I thought It was waterproof like well concrete please add anything 🙏
This is the exact way to do it. Not a flat liner that causes problems down the road when the installer has long gone. I've personally have had to re and re 35 townhome showers with flat liners. Separated tiles from the floor flexing, missing grout and major mold and mildew infiltration causing many of the owners to get sick.
Great video man! Bet you've never been told you freakishly sound like Matthew Mcconauhey!
Yeah so far you've got the best video I've seen yet because I know nothing about tile but I've talked to a lot of my friends in the construction trade I used to be the construction trade myself I was a framer that I came out a cabinet guy for a few years and then I went into electrical now on the second air electrician apprentice. But yeah thank you so much for the video I went ahead and subscribed and I showed one of my videos off to you so one of my buddies and he was like yeah this dude's freaking right on top of what you need to do in your house . That's what he told me.
Just a thought: saw some silicone at home depot that was made for below the waterline on boats. Might last longer. love the vids.
The silicone under the pan is there to form a gasket. Nothing more. It will rarely be exposed to water. It is there just incase the drain backs up. If the drain is working properly it should not get wet.
Made me really believe I can do this myself thank you!