I did a CCV reroute on my Mega cab. Previous owner deleted the truck but didn’t put anything where the CCV line came out of the valve cover so there was oil everywhere inside the motor bay lol. Long story short took a long time to clean but definitely worth the time to put on. Needing to replace my inter cooler tomorrow so this video definitely helped out 👌🏻
hogie1685 So my truck has a banks exhaust break system and it has a vacuum pump to make it work. That called for a new bigger belt. Who ever installed the system had it where the belt was hitting the crank shaft positioning sensor. Over time the belt eat that sensor up bad and caused the issue.
I cracked my original radiator on my 2014 5500 at around 60,000 miles. I put a Mishimoto radiator in it and was all good until I had a water pump failure and it put a hole in it the size of a softball. I put another Mishimoto radiator in it and in a few weeks it developed a leak. They replaced it under warranty and I put another Mishimoto radiator in it. That one instantly leaked so I recently replaced it again under their warranty. The current one has not leaked yet so I’m hoping I’m done replacing radiators in that truck. 4 radiators in 95,000 miles and 4.5 years is a little bit annoying
Nothing wrong with my Mishimoto but I’m swapping mine out with a aftermarket 4 core radiator. It’s twice as thick as the Mishimoto and should help cooling a little better!
@@robertthibodeaux4435 since I posted that response I ended up replacing about 5 Mishimoto radiators under their warranty. I put a factory OEM one back in it and that one has been perfect.
I have an 05 dodge 2500 with the 5.9. Other night my check engine light come on and within 2 mins of that happening my truck just shut off. I pulled over and the code was P0088 and that is high rail pressure. So I changed the fuel filter and got it home. Next day the truck shut off on me again so I changed the FCA/ fuel regulator. That didn’t fix it so I got on amazon and order a 30 dollar fuel sensor and that seem to fix it but then a day later it shut off again on me. Do you think it could be a cheap sensor where I paid 30 bucks and at part stores they are at least 400. Do you have any ideals? The old sensor will shut the truck off in no time and it will even sputter in rpms when driving. New sensor will run great but will shut off at random times.
It could be the rail sensor on the fuel rail. The sensor is expensive enough that it may be better to get the whole fuel rail which comes with the sensor. But before that I would check to see if you have any kind of module hooked up to the wiring harnesses because I had my '03 truck shut down like yours when I first got it and I found that there was this module hooked up to it to trick the truck into accepting high rail pressure. It's called a pressure box or something like that. Gives 30 hp or so of extra power but when it went bad it caused rough idle, occasional truck shutdown, and high rail pressure code.
Trenton Cunagin my 07 5.9L died on me. No rough idle or any indication. Ended up being my CP3 grenaded $$$$$ mechanic said it was most likely caused be not enough fuel/ pressure getting to the CP3 ie the lift pump was weak. Those CP3s need 15-17psi for cooling and lubrication. I had 8 when the truck wasn’t even running. Now I have a 100gph lift pump and a fuel pressure gauge to keep an eye on her!!!! That was my story.
Outpost CTD see what’s weird is right before it would shut off or just at random times the rpms would sputter. Once I changed the sensor the rpms are fine even when it shut off again. It’s like I’m running out of fuel. Once I turn the key off it starts right back up no problems. My truck is completely stock. I’m thinking it’s something to do with sensor or wiring at this point. I’m getting it looked at Monday. Hopefully nothing is to bad wrong with it. When it’s idling it runs smooth like a champ
That oil residue is coming from your gaskets of your oil cooler you're going to have to replace your oil cooler and that is attached from your oil filter
Авто/Мото
I did a CCV reroute on my Mega cab. Previous owner deleted the truck but didn’t put anything where the CCV line came out of the valve cover so there was oil everywhere inside the motor bay lol. Long story short took a long time to clean but definitely worth the time to put on. Needing to replace my inter cooler tomorrow so this video definitely helped out 👌🏻
My radiator is apparently cracked in the same place on my 07 5.9...thanks for this video, now I know what im in store for lol
CCV. Crank case vent. I believe mine just vents out a house to the bottom of my truck. A lot of vehicles is re routes it back into the intake.
hogie1685 So my truck has a banks exhaust break system and it has a vacuum pump to make it work. That called for a new bigger belt. Who ever installed the system had it where the belt was hitting the crank shaft positioning sensor. Over time the belt eat that sensor up bad and caused the issue.
I cracked my original radiator on my 2014 5500 at around 60,000 miles. I put a Mishimoto radiator in it and was all good until I had a water pump failure and it put a hole in it the size of a softball. I put another Mishimoto radiator in it and in a few weeks it developed a leak. They replaced it under warranty and I put another Mishimoto radiator in it. That one instantly leaked so I recently replaced it again under their warranty. The current one has not leaked yet so I’m hoping I’m done replacing radiators in that truck. 4 radiators in 95,000 miles and 4.5 years is a little bit annoying
Nothing wrong with my Mishimoto but I’m swapping mine out with a aftermarket 4 core radiator. It’s twice as thick as the Mishimoto and should help cooling a little better!
@@robertthibodeaux4435 since I posted that response I ended up replacing about 5 Mishimoto radiators under their warranty. I put a factory OEM one back in it and that one has been perfect.
@@TermiteBennythx for this information
Mine cracked in the same exact spot
Have you had to replace your 5.9 radiator????? If so after how many miles .....
The 5.9's is still original!
I have an 05 dodge 2500 with the 5.9. Other night my check engine light come on and within 2 mins of that happening my truck just shut off. I pulled over and the code was P0088 and that is high rail pressure. So I changed the fuel filter and got it home. Next day the truck shut off on me again so I changed the FCA/ fuel regulator. That didn’t fix it so I got on amazon and order a 30 dollar fuel sensor and that seem to fix it but then a day later it shut off again on me. Do you think it could be a cheap sensor where I paid 30 bucks and at part stores they are at least 400. Do you have any ideals? The old sensor will shut the truck off in no time and it will even sputter in rpms when driving. New sensor will run great but will shut off at random times.
It could be the rail sensor on the fuel rail. The sensor is expensive enough that it may be better to get the whole fuel rail which comes with the sensor. But before that I would check to see if you have any kind of module hooked up to the wiring harnesses because I had my '03 truck shut down like yours when I first got it and I found that there was this module hooked up to it to trick the truck into accepting high rail pressure. It's called a pressure box or something like that. Gives 30 hp or so of extra power but when it went bad it caused rough idle, occasional truck shutdown, and high rail pressure code.
Also my truck only has 107,000 miles
Trenton Cunagin my 07 5.9L died on me. No rough idle or any indication. Ended up being my CP3 grenaded $$$$$ mechanic said it was most likely caused be not enough fuel/ pressure getting to the CP3 ie the lift pump was weak. Those CP3s need 15-17psi for cooling and lubrication. I had 8 when the truck wasn’t even running. Now I have a 100gph lift pump and a fuel pressure gauge to keep an eye on her!!!! That was my story.
Outpost CTD see what’s weird is right before it would shut off or just at random times the rpms would sputter. Once I changed the sensor the rpms are fine even when it shut off again. It’s like I’m running out of fuel. Once I turn the key off it starts right back up no problems. My truck is completely stock. I’m thinking it’s something to do with sensor or wiring at this point. I’m getting it looked at Monday. Hopefully nothing is to bad wrong with it. When it’s idling it runs smooth like a champ
Trenton Cunagin if you remember keep me posted after you find out what’s wrong. I’m really curious!!!!
That oil residue is coming from your gaskets of your oil cooler you're going to have to replace your oil cooler and that is attached from your oil filter
The fastest way is to simply remove the fan clutch. Could of elimated tons of work
3y late but I was gonna a say the same thing.
no mention of power steering cooler and transmission cooler ????
I did mention power steering. It is the small one at the bottom. Also this was a manual trans truck. No trans cooler.
Need to check the Turbo oil seal, should not have any engine oil in the pre- cooler.
It is a bad turbo
Ya egr sucks now im afraid to look in to mine .looks like this is a normal fail point on ram rads
Tight squeeze for the bottoms. Lol
That's plastic for ya.
Don’t like the pause that you have
I thought my wifi went out lol