Project Scale RC Prerunner 2wd Toyota Hard Body Part 4
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Proline Bfgoodrich km3 Amain Hobbies and KC light bar
Just have to add some scale details and metal hop up parts build the shocks
RC4WD 1987 Toyota XtraCab Hard Body
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RC4WD 1987 Toyota XtraCab Hard Body
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RC4WD King Off-Road Scale Piggyback Shocks w/Faux Reservoir (100mm)
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RC4WD Extended Shock Ends for King Off-Road Shocks
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RC4WD 1987 Toyota XtraCab Hard Body Complete Set
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1/10 Scale Hard body RC prerunner build with full interior lights and long travel trailing arm setup Running on 3s with a Hobbywing EZRun MAX10 Sensorless Brushless ESC/3652SL Motor Combo (5400kV) this thing should rip pretty good once we figure out pinion size. I rebuilt the Element RC Stealth X Gearbox with the zero over drive setup and on a 18t stock pinion with this motor setup its spicy, cracking wheelies spicy. Stay tuned as we build this thing and see if it even works.I picked up a Element Enduro Gatekeeper rtr for super cheap with some Amain credits with the idea to build my first ladder frame railed hard body prerunner. I chose the gatekeeper because it comes stock with a true 4 link solid rear axle and has the ability to run the Element RC IFS Conversion Kit and my plan is to not use the front drives and run it 2wd with some custom long travel king shocks. We got a RC4wd 87 Toyota Extra Cab last year for my birthday and its been sitting in the box just waiting to be built. I might even test fit the 1/10 scale ford bronco hard body we have as its close in wheelbase compared to the Losi baja Rey that is a long batch. I got a plug and play brushless system that will be going in the element and I need to do some research and learn more about gearing and spurs and figure out something for the transmission. I reached out to element rc and associated with some info on how to convert this model to rwd and they had frankly shty answers from people clearly not involved in the tech side. I came up with a cool solution that I wanted to share in this video so check out my attempt at building a 1/10 scale electric rc prerunner baja truck.
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The Ford Raptor Losi Baja Rey is prepped with some new Pro-Line 1/10 Dumont Front/Rear 2.2"/3.0" Sand/Snow Short Course Tires
1-10-dumont-front-rear-2.2-3.0-sand-snow-short-course-tires-2/PRO1018500.htmlMounted to some Losi Baja Rey Wheels (4): Baja ReyItem No. LOS43006
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1/10 Enduro Gatekeeper Builder's Kit
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RC4WD 1987 Toyota XtraCab Hard Body Complete Setstore.rc4wd.co...
Hobbywing EZRun MAX10 Sensorless Brushless ESC/3652SL Motor Combo (5400kV)
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Element RC Enduro Gatekeeper 4x4 RTR 1/10 Rock Crawler w/2.4GHz Radio on sale at this time $299.99
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/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1How to film rc how to make mini studio how to build sim racing cockpit scale rc truck scale rc prerunner rc paddle tires rc dune buggy rc buggy rc radio-controlled custom prerunner rc hard body toyota
kpopRC was and is a huge inspiration on why we make videos. Check out kpopRC for some cool builds and RC content. He is the reason I will have a 1/5 scale RC very soon. Check out his youtube channel here ruclips.net/user/kpopRC come hang on a tall can Tuesday and show some love. I am struggling with gluing the plastic dowels and have a epoxy/glue showdown happening as we speak. My other option is to get a cheap welder and do the cage in metal. This idea is appealing and not. The weight of a full metal cage is not my idea of performance, I might just remake it out of the wood dowel and do a smoking paintjob on it because even with just the wood dowel the cage adds so much rigidity its crazy. Hit that like and subscribe for more RC builds and content.
Tall Can Tuesdays!!
@@MK-FreedomUSA Right on
I know it's not your style but could you take that body and put it on a redcat Impala or monte carlo chassis and body drop it and make it lay body and do like a hydro chassis for it
Can't wait to see this thing dance
Me too man, appreciate the support. I will be on tomorrow morning to watch the premier hope you can find the time to watch it live and jump into the chat.
Dude I spend so much time staring at my projects. That's too funny.
Right on man like minds. 🤟
Right on man like minds 🤟
Master Fabricator at work here.!!
Learning as we go. Pretty darn good for my first go. Thanks buddy
I’ll be waiting, I’m so ready to see the YOTA AGAIN
😎
Tip for the lock tight band, try scoring cross hatched lines on both surfaces.
I remember that trick from grade school and forming clay lol. Great tips
Awesome project 👍
Thanks for sharing ✌️
Thanks for watching appreciate your support
I’m so stoked i came across this build. So sick bro.
Thanks for following along 😎🤟
About the staring at the project thing... I'm with you, I obsess over it until it's done, and then obsess again and change it up 😂
Its fun to visualize, thanks for watching
Looking good
Appreciate you following along
Little sneak peek of her running at the end, it’s gonna be sick bro.
Oh yeah, and as you were saying that about staring at projects I was doing that very thing with my Phoenix. It’s all built and running but wheel and tire choices and the color to boot. I’m stuck on stupid right now cause can’t think of anything but doing her some severe weathering is what would make sense. You’re build is sick sumpin fierce. What color are you hittin her up with
shhh don't tell anyone its already a ripper lol
@@kravenkrawlhobby5438 I have always wanted to do some weather would be cool. I am stuck on doing white fiberglass on a primer cab and bed with some bondo or doing a gloss as a mofo paintjob and making it all match, just don't, guess your going to have to stay tuned to find out huh, lol thanks for watching bro, peace.
Awesome project, and great presentation. I had similar frustration trying to bond an ABS kit. Finally gave in and used an ABS specific glue. Problems solved.
Great tips, I just picked up a plastic specific eboxy made for this type of plastic. Great points and a huge oversight on my part not doing my research on such an important part of the build. Thanks for watching.
would say that it might be best to use the same glue specified for plastic models.
@@extec101 I don't think people understand the abuse this truck is going to be put through, in my experience a flexible adhesive is necessary for jumping and high speed crashes, Model glue, CA, epoxy and other plastic/model specific glue simply are not flexible enough to hold up in this application from my experience but we are going to find out. Thanks for watching
Good looking rig, should be a fun one
Thanks, excited to see it ripping. Appreciate the interest 🤟
nice work
Right on, thanks for watching 🤟
Wicked project. Make sure to rough up any smooth plastic with a corse sandpaper. The more gouges you put In it the better.
Great tips
I have to admit I do the same thing bro……. I will find myself starting at mine as well while working 😂😂😂
Ha ha I figured it wasn't just me. 🤟
Nice tires! I love a set of good tires!!
Me too man that fresh rubber smell. Thanks for watching 🤟
Nice rig
Thanks for watching 🤟
Love to see an scx24 build from you , this is amazing
Thanks so much for the support 🤟
Very nice Projekt... I built my self one too... Just the painting was over 18 hours of work! ANd on the second run I broke the body.... hate my life XD
I was so dumm, I said to my self, no running on Pavment, second run I have to get back to my Car, too drive home, a littel road, I just wanne to drain the batterie a littel bit... send it to hard, got grip whit the rear tires on Gras, and then it rolled badly..... man I could cry in that moment, but I think that´s part of it.
Ahh that sucks. It's a lot of work when they break but parts of the fun is how to make them better. Thank you for watching
very cool build
Thanks for watching 🤟
looks killer man, that rear suspension kicks ass! Crash and burn
It's got some droopage. Crash and Burn!
I LIKE This video
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the support
Oh boy oh boy😁😁
🤟
🤟
Man this thing is coming along nice.
I stare at my trucks and cycle the suspension constantly lmao 🤣 now my 7 year old does it too ..
lol I knew I wasn't the only one man, right on, thanks for watching buddy.
Can't wait!! It's the final count down!
Thanks for the support appreciate you
@@DoubleClutchProductions ur welcome brother. God bless. And keep on keepin on
Go to ur auto parts store. Get some JB weld putty for ur doors. U can also use it to form fender flares scoops or whatever. And it sandable. I think u will find it very useful to the hobby. And they have different kinds that will bond to anything.
That is some great stuff, used that exact brand to fix the mold trim on my OG mazda back in the day, legit man thanks
Nice video!
Appreciate the interest and thanks for watching 🤟😎
Release agent from the mold will leave a residue on and in the plastic. Clean with a plastic safe solvent, heat to release from inside plastic and clean again. Then rough up with course paper and apply epoxy. Do this on both parts.
This ^^^ epoxy needs a clean surface and the parts need scuffed to create a mechanical bond.
Great tips
@@MuddysGarage Excellent info thank you
I love my km3's on my 10.3.
This whole build was just awesome.
One day it would be great to do a build based on what you do.
Even work with you to do a build.
Love your style.
Thanks buddy, appreciate the support
Marvellous construction works 😍👏
Thank you my friend, just watched your Tamiya King Hauler videos, great job and thank you for watching.
Wow..bro awesome
Thanks for watching 🤟
I'm so excited to see this beast doing its job outside 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻 I might build one aswell 😍
Hoping to be live today with part 5 😎
@@DoubleClutchProductions I will be present 🤘🏻 notifications are turned on
@@therealHUSA Awesome
This is a pretty high quality build. Very inspiring.
Toyota Tuesday right on bro. Thanks for watching 🤟
On plastic bodies that are ABS I have used abs glue. Sand parts and clean Properly. I have had good results.
For a good joint with the same
prep, and a more flexible result I am all about shoe goo.
Your project is turning out killer!!
👍👍🤙
It was def an oversight on my part. I didnt prep the parts very good and used a cheapo non plastic specific epoxy. Great info and at least we are learning something. Thanks for watching.
I converted one of my rc4wd gelande ii’s to bomber rear trailing arms and 100mm front shocks for a decent amount of travel up front. Things a beast
Sounds,like a cool project would love to check it out
@@DoubleClutchProductions I swapped it back to 4link cause i didnt know what sway bar to go with. Although its not a challenge to go back to trailing arms on e i find one that fits.
ruclips.net/video/LlYoqZEMe5Y/видео.html
Shoe Goo is a friend
Been using it since grade school, some of best adhesives ever made
I feel you about staring at a project on our individual work benches. Great project by the way, I can't wait to see it all come together. :)
I know right, thanks for the support. Banging out part 5 now, my ADD doesn't like watching paint and clear dry 🤨
Awesome video Bro 😎 killer build on the pre runner looks sick.. great job thumbs up 👍
Thanks man appreciate you 😎🤟
I cut up a slash body and did the same over fenders on my SCX10-II and it came out sick like yours
Sounds cool man, got a link to check it out?
You need a solvent based abs style glue!!!!!!! Turns both parts into a liquid as they bond together !!!!
Great tips, noted 😎
@@DoubleClutchProductions been doing rc for 30 plus yrs !!! If type my name into RUclips you can see two of my builds !!!
Use a syringe to be exact with the shoo goo you can use various size needles for different size beads
That's a great tip thanks
i would love to have a pre runner rc
Maybe we should do a giveaway with a custom spec prerunner. What type of build would you like to see next? Happy New Year buddy 🤟
@@DoubleClutchProductions My vote is for a Losi Baja Rey, but done with a more scale body. That way the suspension is already completed for you and parts will be available.
im a sub......... what a project man. so sick much luve from atlantic canada.
Canada wasup bro 🤟 thanks for the support man working on part 5 now
Fantastic build very inspiring!
Thanks for watching.
Great video man...😎👍
Thank you very much
You might want to check out Associated’s brass hexes for the wheels. You’re going to shred the plastic hexes.
Cool build though.
Your so right. It has Samix brass hexes 6mm. I don't know if I mentioned that in part 1?
Had this video recommended to me and binged the whole series from the beginning. Your work is inspiring and I can't wait for the next update and future builds!!
This is why we make vids man, appreciate your support and it's getting close to being done 🤙
Great work and good fun to see. Greetings and Marry Xmas from Denmark
Thanks for following along happy holidays from the USA
Looks incredible! I can’t wait to see an update!
Thanks for watching, coming soon
Polystyrene glue brother , that’s why you might want to try
Learning as we go good tips man thanks
this tires looks much better.
Totally agree 🤟
you will have the same issue with shoe goo. i would use JB weld. my go to for everything. you have to sand the areas. but yes, as soon as you hit and jump they will come off.
Were going to find out
@@DoubleClutchProductions Thats how I do everything. Sometimes it works, sometimes my trip is cut short and its back to the drawing board. Im ready for some running videos my man!
It's good to rough up the spot so it gets a good bond or it will peel off like it did
Great tips.
Cool cage! I think it just needs 4-5 more bars. At the door the bottom bar at the floorboard. Maybe start in the middle and go at an angle up to about where the door lock is at the window and that would allow a person to still step in and set down. And maybe 2 short bars under the back side windows level from front to back. Then on the roof, 1 from front corner on the driver side at an angle to the back corner on the passenger side
Legit. It could use a few extra tubes for sure. Thanks for watching man appreciate the support 🤟
(I read your info) - Easiest way to run 2wd rear is to simply remove the front drive shaft, there ya have it 🤟🏽 Good luck
I did that and more. Did you see the other parts to this series? I go into good detail about we modified the universals and running an empty front diff to keep the sprung weight to a minimum up front. We did a lot more than remove the front drive shaft. Thanks for watching. 🤟
Definitely abs glue, and some scuffing
Great tips, What brand do you recommend?
@@DoubleClutchProductions tamiya, e6000, gorilla glue. There's quite a few choices. Just gotta make sure it's "abs". It'll melt the plastics together
you can make a roll cage for the loading area so that it looks like a tropy truck
We might just do that 🤟
Also doing a prerunner build on my 1:16 wpl, still have a lot of issues though, but watching your progress really inspires me 😁
Sounds like a cool project. Glad you can get some inspiration from our builds, inspiring viewers is what makes creating content fun, thanks for watching
Idea i was thing of was to use tmaxx tierods for the rear arms then mount to to stock rear shock location . For the front end. Use may be 1/16 traxxas cars front arms buck head would have to naroww. Some
Brushless to a transfer case it would go soo fast
Send me a link to the parts your talking about
Sick build. Subscribed and I can't wait to see the rest!
Thanks for the support broskie appreciate it 🤟
Looks great man I admit tho if it were mine first thing I'd drop is that horrendous low sitting IFS, I mean I get it on a fast racing type short course or stadium truck but definitely has no place on a Crawler.. Sweet vid
This isn't a crawler it's a prerunner? Maybe I should go into what prerunners are in the next part? I agree if it was a crawler I would put the solid axle back in it and ditch the trailing arms 🤟 thanks for watching
@@DoubleClutchProductions Oh ok I gotcha Brotha on what a Pre-runner is, (basically a scout vehicle) pre-runs the course before an actual race, I never heard you mention that so my bad, looked like a Gatekeeper (crawler chassis) so I assumed you were going the crawler route!! I gotcha it looks sick Bro & makes sense now!! 🤟🏽
ps
I randomly found this video I didn't realize you had an entire build series going, maybe had I watched them all I would of realized. so my bad
@@ConditionZero76 lol heck yah. It might make more sense seeing the other parts. Just thought the title was enough 2wd prerunner? Appreciate your interest. 🤟
For the kc lightbar you could run it on the back like the old school prerunners
Actually a really good idea, let me peep on this and.......
Epoxy didn’t hold because the surface is too smooth. Surface should’ve been scuffed up for adhesion.
It was scuffed and washed prior to epoxy. I used this same epoxy on a Tamiya body with no issues but still epoxy shouldn't snap clean off of plastic regardless of the prep right?
@@DoubleClutchProductions sounds like you did everything right. Hope you got it sorted out.
Project is Looking good though .
I think I would have used some kind of glue for the fender flares and clamped them down instead of screws to make it look a little more scale. But don't get me wrong this is just suggestions. The builds is cool. I'm just throwing ideas at u.👍 I'm a sub now and look forward to more videos from ur channel
Thanks for the support man, I want these to be replaceable for when I trash em from crashing, roost, sand blast and if glued its a one and done nah im saying, thanks for watching. Close to posting part 5
I haven’t tried it yet but I have plastic epoxy. So maybe there is something about it not liking the plastic.
Just found you “new sub” watched all the yota vids and there great can’t wait to see more.
Thanks for following along. I agree with you that I could have used a more plastic specific epoxy but my thinking on moving to shoe goo is flexibility. I have been showing off a Hard Body Bronco build on my Instagram that is a test mule for this rig, everything from shocks, led lights and used shoe goo entirely as a test. We will find out very shortly if it all works. Thanks for watching 🤟
I’m wondering if you rough up the surface of the body if the epoxy would’ve stuck better. But if I were you I would 3d different brackets to go on that hinge and then just use more hardware to mount it
This is the best solution I have seen besides a more flexible adhesive. Well played bro 😎
Perfect job mate....the car looking ao real😍
Keep going champ👑
Thanks for following along 🤟
Hell yeah bro I look at builds, visualize what I want, and try different stuff. I don't build as much from scratch as you do but hopefully I work my way there, great job on your 3D printed fender that was awesome just out of your head...👍👍
Thanks man appreciate you watching. 🤟
drill 2 holes for swaybar and you can bolt your bed mount
You didn't watch till the end.
@@DoubleClutchProductions ohh my bad actually its better idea
Was the plastic clean and rough before applying the epoxy?
Washed with dish soap and light scuffed with scotch brite prior to epoxy. The epoxy I used showed similar bad results on completely different materials too. Thanks for your interest 😎
😉👍💯
Sup buddy, thanks for the support, appreciate you
What tool are using to cut the plastic tubes? Awesome build!
Multi angle miter shear from Amazon 😎
You didn't use a plastic primer before you put the epoxy on? There's gotta be a better adhesion promoter for epoxy on ABS
No just washed and scotch brite on the door insert. Been working with plastics for a long time outside of RC and this is still a little strange in my opinion. Never had to use a epoxy primer on plastics before but I am learning hopefully lol. Thanks for watching man. 🤟
You have inspired me to build one I have wanted to build one for a long time so thank you also where did you get the bronco body as that's what i would like to build my off
Right on thanks for watching. The bronco was from ebay but was a rc4me 313mm wheelbase 1979 Bronco Hard Body. The traxxas TRX Bronco body is identical but lexan. 🤟 appreciate your support and good luck with your project
I’d do the cage out of brake line and solder it
Break line is a great idea man 🤙😎
Epoxy really is not suitable for almost all plastics. you can make it stick a bit by "keying" (roughing with something like 120p sandpaper) the surface to give it something to hold onto but even then it's a poor bond. CA glue is likely a better adhesive in this instance. Shoe-goo is however possibly the worst thing you could use.
Just following the directions, CA might be the worst to use because it has almost no flexibility and one big crash and it will crack as the body bends and the CA doesnt. I used shoe goo to build an entire hard body prerunners bronco and its holding up great so we will find out. Thanks for watching
What car did you start with?
Part 1 has all the details and links to the vehicle. Gatekeeper
just curious, what happens when you mount the rod ends of the bottom control arm inside/top mount them?
Can you explain a little more I don't know what you mean? Happy new year
@@DoubleClutchProductions for your front lower control arms, reverse how they are mounted to the caster block. Would give you more ground clearance but also look more like a trophy truck. They usually mount the the lower arm at the center of the wheel on the hub. I'm just not sure how it would affect your geometry might have to add washers to extend the length of the arm.
Great looking truck! Any more videos on the Baja Rey coming soon? I am just about to start mine 👍🏻
Ha thanks man. The baja reys are my favorite trucks. I got a new project using a baja Rey that is going to be cool. I have been scouting my local dunes planning to do videos with both of my baja trucks and hope to have a bunch of running videos very soon. This channel is all about the Baja Rey so stay tuned and thanks for the support. 🤟
@@DoubleClutchProductions This enduro is cool too, but I can’t wait to see more on the Rey’s… still waiting 8 months for the dual UDR shock drop tests lol
Just got both Bajas out to the dunes, stay tuned my friend
@@DoubleClutchProductions I can’t wait for some inspiration!! … nprc has been my focus lately.
All I’ve done with the BR is collect the recommended upgrades lol
put bull bar front bumper
Clever 😎
Is the main frame a crawler or something you built
Part 1 has all the info and links. Thanks for watching
Ok thank you
hey, how much uptravel do you want?
yes
Its like Jello, theres always room for more uptravel lol 👍 thanks for watching
What about JBweld?
JB is my preferred but I don't think epoxy is flexible enough for how much this body flexes. I would use JB plastic weld when I build the next one. Thanks for watching
I haven’t tried it. I got three kits to build up maybe I’ll start a channel up. Don’t have anything to loose tbh. Great content by the way.
Used lord fusor
602ez
Thanks for watching
What part of sf are you in?
We moved out of the Bay 😎 check out fog city RC he is local
What's the chassis platform again?
Gatekeeper chassis 🤟 more info in the other parts to this series 🤙Thanks for watching
@@DoubleClutchProductions
Thanks for the reply. Looking forward to some running videos.
@@IllusionSector thanks for the support, got the shocks built and I would say its promising it will rip pretty good. 🤟
use MEK Slurry
Shoegoo and epoxy sucks!
Been using shoo goo and e600 on RC for a long time it's one of the best flexible adhesives ever made.
@@DoubleClutchProductions yep but you don't need this to flex. On Lexan, sure those work great, but you want this part to not fail and shoogoo and e600 are not the best.
MEK will bind the styrene part like an it came out of the mold as a single peice.
Also if ya wanna check out some sick 24 scale tires I got coming in!! And yea I stare at my rc just like that!! Excitement and letting the excitement build up!! The your wheel and tire combo are super sick!! Yo check out my video coming up I think you will like the tires I got and your gonna love the price I got them at!! MTRC CRAWLER that’s me bro!! Thanks
Legit bro let me peep it, thanks for the support
thats not a hard body, they are just toyota pick ups or hilux's man, the nissan trucks like the d20 or d21 are called hard bodys. cant believe you got 4 videos on this and no one has said a word, just really drives the point home that rc/scale guys are NOT car guys
Hard body is a type of RC body and has nothing to do with the era of real world trucks your referencing. You must be a little truck guy 😁