Clogged HVAC condensate drain line. Installing a Rectorseal Model SS2 overflow shut-off switch.
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- Опубликовано: 7 июл 2022
- We had a clogged HVAC condensate drain line. We heard the overflowing condensation dripping onto our main floor ceiling. I installed a Rectorseal Model SS2 condensate overflow shut-off switch.
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Am I the only one who screamed "Nooo!!!" at the computer screen when he said he was going to cut out the tab on the secondary outlet? Came here for the comments and didn't see any about it. Glad you left it alone. 😂
Haha! I almost cut it out but decided against it at the last minute.
I wanted to scream too. Fortunately he figured it out logically. I was impressed with that.
Yep......me too. If he had knocked out that little baffle/restrictor the safety switch would have prematurely broken the circuit.
I started laughing my ass off when he said he was going to do that x'DDD
This is the only video that really show how to connect this SS2, thanks.
I liked the way you explain every single thing and the way you films and do the job , because I am immigrants to US and my English is not perfect,, But your way of explaining I'd excellent .. Thank you
Excellent explanation! I've been curious for a while about how to wire one of these OF switches on my Goodman unit and now I know. Thank you!
Hope things are operating properly for you. Just came across your video and would suggest you replace your 90 degree elbow above the trap where the humidifier drain goes down to your a/c drain with a T-fitting and have an 8 inch stand pipe installed and left open so you allow air flow for the drain to run freely. If there is no air gap left then the water draining could and probably will always backup and continue giving you problems. With the open pipe you can always pour some white vinegar into the pipe to help keep the mold from building up. Take care.
Thanks for your help!
The AC drain line SHOULD BE easy to Clean Out when Properly installed 👍😅. When NOT installed Correctly then it's a Mess 😕😔
Good job!
I think everyone will agree that having an access panel to the evaporator is a really nice feature. This should be standard on furnace/ac combos where oftentimes the only way to see/clean the ac evap is through a whole-house humidifier (remove filter) or to cut a hole in the ductwork. 😢
Your right pw, it does your customer a good service. A clean well maintained unit last longer and consumes less energy.
GREAT Video.
I'm also in Georgia and having Drain Line issues This Year.
After viewing a few videos, I can share that Your Video is exactly what I needed to see.
Thanks again for all that you do.
You need a inlet that allows you to pour white vinegar into this drain line a couple of times a year. That will keep mold from building up in your lines.
I also have a spray foamed home and live in Alabama.
Had my issues with moisture.
Installed a whole house dehumidifier about 7 years ago.
It helps tremendously during the winter!
I use my upstairs HVAC as a dehumidifier in the summer time. Since it's a 1.5 ton unit.
I allow it to do most of the work during summer months.
It keeps the house comfortable during the day.
If the temp is set right on your upstairs unit. The dehumidifier will be unnecessary during the hotter months of the year.
I also have those Goodman units. 😂
Definitely had problems over the years. Most HVAC professionals will tell you, they are fairly simple to replace parts on and overall cheaper to repair than the more complex systems.
Ive had my dehumidifier turned off for a few weeks this summer. With the air conditioner and and dehumidifier going, my house was actually getting too dry. That was causing us a few problems like dry skin and dry sinuses. I turned it back on about a week ago. We’ve had a lot of rain lately in Georgia so the humidity in the house was getting too high again.
@@BrantleyBlended What size tonnage are your HVAC units?
I find during the shelf seasons of the year. That's fall to winter and spring to summer changeovers. I use the dehumidifier the most. Since those are the times when the AC cooling is unnecessary.
Pulling air from above at the humidifier.
It's the 2ndary over flow drain , code requires. The secondary to run out over a widow to alert owner that main drain is clogged. A flag for the inspector. Better safe than sorry. Mechanical contractor since 1980. A proper drain means a lot u don't want the water to overflow into the ahu then to the emergency drain pan.u wNt the overflow to come out the factory secondary drain then to the em drain out out over window.
That is your secondary drain ,which the plastic is part of the pan to put the water level higher which makes it the secondary
BTW 78° isn't hot .. but, I'm sure it's hotter in the attic..
You don't want to tighten it too much because it can cause the pan to crack. You should have kept the SS2 a little loose to the point where you can actually turn in slightly. The tape will make sure it doesn't leak. Plus if water does get into the switch; to avoid vacuuming it you can just twist is down and empty it. Certified
I think my favorite idea from RUclips is put a cutoff valve above your u trap and install a Waterhose connector befor the u with a cutoff valve so you can just connect a water hose and send it
I don't know if it was said or now. But instead of taking anything apart, and you knew where the drain exited the house, You should of gone there, rapped a wet drag around the pipe to get max suction from your shop-vac, and sucked the clog out there. Heck of a lot faster, easier, and cleaner, since I bet you'll be doing this quite a bit until everything's tunes in.
Do you think you would've had all the ventilation issues with the spray foam if you only used foam in the attic and basement then used regular fiberglass insulation on ext walls?
Another thing I forgot to say was i would go with closed cell foam instead of open cell. Open cell foam does not have a vapor barrier closed cell does
Is teflon tape really needed on plastic fittings?
Also u must have enough fall to supercede the water column of the return . In layman terms the ahu has a negative pressure, if u have 2 inches of negative pressure w.c. u must have that much fall before the p trap. It's not all cut and dry .I've seen contractors make the same mistakes. If they only would not he proud and read the Manuel and code book they would be ahead of future problems. I'm not a Eisenstein, just a old mechanical contractor that god has lead through the years of a fantastic trade.
Do not knock that out you will be in trouble
By putting the switch in the R wire you will kill both cooling and heating, In the heating mode you are not going condensate, but I can't tell you if there is a better place to put on a heat pump. I'd have to look at the wiring diagram to figure it out.
You know, I was gonna start this out by saying some derogatory comments regarding your meandering about spray foam. But, then I guess you're pretty smart for using the internet to fix your home on the cheap. Good job. I'm sure that you've convinced some manufacturers to hook you up or monetize this video.
Btw, what is your average power bill? Did you G.C. your own home?
Power bill is $175 - $250 depending on time of year. I used a GC to build my house. I did some of the work myself. No manufacturers care about a tiny channel like mine. I pay for everything.
went to my attic and i see bats
Noooooo don’t knock off that eyebrow on inside the secondary !
Did the compressor stop running when you lifted up the float?????
Yes, the whole HVAC system shuts down
Leave it in there
I want a filter door like he has can I get it aftermarket for a Goodman
You had your tool up there. use tape and vacuum it out. No need for water unless youre cleaning the coil. LEAVE THAT THERE. It's the secondary hence why its blocked off a bit.
If you remove that piece of plastic that shut off would constantly fill and your unit would not run
Should be a running trap. Just call the installer boss and send him a bill of $8000.00 and he will fix the situation immediately.
Interesting … you’d think (or, I’d think … ) a float switch would be part of the system already.
I’m learning that’s not the case. My attic unit leaks, and the pan beneath it overflows.
Now I’m considering a 2nd float switch, that kind you have in the line and and a pan switch at the bottom … because water coming downstairs is a really bad day.
Maybe just wire the pan switch to an alarm that says, “Hey moron, turn off the A/C now!!”
Why is there no condensate pump?
Gravity does the work of draining the water from that attic location.
Do you have open or closed cell sprayfoam in your home? I seen your other video about your opinion on sprayfoam I disagree. Look up build tight ventilate right if you having problems with being uncomfortable in your home it should be the hvac guys fault for not ventilating your home properly
Open cell foam
Put bleach in the pipe monthly bud!
Dude. Leave you air handler alone and call a professional. You will be doing yourself a big favor.
A “professional” installed my hvac units and did a terrible job. I don’t think too highly of most “professionals”.
The so called "pros" hate to see DIY homeowners keeping that money instead of putting it into their
'professional" pockets! That air handler belongs to you and you can do whatever you want with it!@@BrantleyBlended Very good video.