Same thing I thought too. All it takes is getting in a hurry during an install because that attic is hot and you're ready to get out of there before you feel like you're going to have a heatstroke. Take the time it takes to test the float switches!
Two ways to do it and either is correct. 1) kill all power to everything 2) kill power to the outdoor unit only I question your statement about the 1:27 mark about the original wiring no killing the outdoor unit. Why would it not kill power to the condenser? If it does not kill an operation call to the condenser, then break Y. Personally I will NOT kill power to everything. In my area there are freezing temperatures, therefore killing power to everything would eliminate the possibility of the occupant using the aux/emerg heat until someone could get there to determine the issue. I would rather there be use of the aux/emerg heat and no frozen water pipes then there be a major flood issue due to no heat and frozen pipes. If you have no issues with damage caused by not having heat, say Fl or Ca where the probability of freezing temps is highly unlikely, then by all means kill all power. Either way the customer will know there is an issue. Since many thermostats have batteries, then killing power to everything does not necessarily mean the customer will have any quicker knowledge of an issue since the stat will still be on. So breaking the call to the outdoor unit will provide the same no cool/heat and get their attention. Yes, the blower will not be on with only the condenser call cut, but if the coil is freezing up, at least the blower being on my thaw the coil in the mean time. Again, to each their own. I try to think of all the possibilities.
Something you said reminds me of why some people choose to use Rheem products around here. We usually need AC. So. If something happens to reversing valve it should default to cooling.
@@HVACGUY Does NOT matter what equipment is used, the same cut condenser operation exists - Y, R, C. Only issue with cutting R or C would be if there is a defrost/control board that stores faults. This would kill 24V and, unless they are stored in memory, drop the error.
Heat pumps and 90%+ units I always break both hot wires as you did. The only exception is the 80% conventional split system I will just break Y for obvious reasons. Installer probably just read the first set of instructions (I believe the SS2 instructions do state to break “Y” with the float switch). Wouldn’t be the first or last time I was wrong though…..
I have "3 low voltage red wires", one connected with a yellow wire, and the other two red wires are connected each with 2 separate EZTrap Black wires. Can I connect my new "Condensate Pump 2 shut-off wires" with the EZTrap and red wire separate connections?
Fan wasn’t ramping up? Also if you have the access to float switch you have to make sure you run the sensitivity down all the way and if you have a pan switch ss3 in the pan needs to be set very sensitive as well. We also put freeze stats CPS coil lockout.on the units in Florida. This will shut off like a zoning system if it goes to freeze up past 26°. We also install a primary float switch as well SS1. Good job anyways.
There's nothing wrong with your blower still running if the condensation has tripped the safety switch. The switch only needs to kill the condenser from pumping coolant.
Is wrong installed ,but when you stopped condenser unit not water will be produced and customer has air handler blowing into the house , that isn’t really bad.
Breaking Y, or yellow, the outdoor unit/compressor call works for AC units and heat pumps, but if you have a condensing furnace creating condensate, you have to look at which W call controls it. If you use one float switch for all condensate, they you'll likely need to break the R to kill signals to both/all sources.
@@jkbrown5496 a lot Trans /American Standard and ICP that have float switch they use yellow . Rheem and Goodman float switch are on Red from all systems seen . I was always told float switch to yellow .I still learning HVAC
Lesson of the day, run the system and test float switches at installation. Good catch, nice instructional video also.
Same thing I thought too. All it takes is getting in a hurry during an install because that attic is hot and you're ready to get out of there before you feel like you're going to have a heatstroke.
Take the time it takes to test the float switches!
Two ways to do it and either is correct.
1) kill all power to everything
2) kill power to the outdoor unit only
I question your statement about the 1:27 mark about the original wiring no killing the outdoor unit. Why would it not kill power to the condenser?
If it does not kill an operation call to the condenser, then break Y.
Personally I will NOT kill power to everything. In my area there are freezing temperatures, therefore killing power to everything would eliminate the possibility of the occupant using the aux/emerg heat until someone could get there to determine the issue.
I would rather there be use of the aux/emerg heat and no frozen water pipes then there be a major flood issue due to no heat and frozen pipes.
If you have no issues with damage caused by not having heat, say Fl or Ca where the probability of freezing temps is highly unlikely, then by all means kill all power.
Either way the customer will know there is an issue. Since many thermostats have batteries, then killing power to everything does not necessarily mean the customer will have any quicker knowledge of an issue since the stat will still be on. So breaking the call to the outdoor unit will provide the same no cool/heat and get their attention.
Yes, the blower will not be on with only the condenser call cut, but if the coil is freezing up, at least the blower being on my thaw the coil in the mean time.
Again, to each their own.
I try to think of all the possibilities.
Something you said reminds me of why some people choose to use Rheem products around here. We usually need AC. So. If something happens to reversing valve it should default to cooling.
@@HVACGUY
Does NOT matter what equipment is used, the same cut condenser operation exists - Y, R, C. Only issue with cutting R or C would be if there is a defrost/control board that stores faults. This would kill 24V and, unless they are stored in memory, drop the error.
SS2 instruction says. Use either R or Y. I used R on mine. Tested it and shut the whole thing down. Good info thank you.
Good find! Valuable lesson for the new guyz. 😎👍
Heat pumps and 90%+ units I always break both hot wires as you did. The only exception is the 80% conventional split system I will just break Y for obvious reasons. Installer probably just read the first set of instructions (I believe the SS2 instructions do state to break “Y” with the float switch). Wouldn’t be the first or last time I was wrong though…..
the thermostat supplies the condenser with 24 volts so once you kill the red to the thermostat nothing will work
Nice job and video like always
I have "3 low voltage red wires", one connected with a yellow wire, and the other two red wires are connected each with 2 separate EZTrap Black wires. Can I connect my new "Condensate Pump 2 shut-off wires" with the EZTrap and red wire separate connections?
I always broke red at the trans to kill everything display goes blank so the customer knows there is a problem not just intermittent cooling.
Fan wasn’t ramping up? Also if you have the access to float switch you have to make sure you run the sensitivity down all the way and if you have a pan switch ss3 in the pan needs to be set very sensitive as well. We also put freeze stats CPS coil lockout.on the units in Florida. This will shut off like a zoning system if it goes to freeze up past 26°. We also install a primary float switch as well SS1. Good job anyways.
Good catch
There's nothing wrong with your blower still running if the condensation has tripped the safety switch. The switch only needs to kill the condenser from pumping coolant.
True, but shutting down the whole system will identify that theres a problem sooner and not blow water around.
IT LOOKS AS THOUGH THIS SWITCH CANNOT BE INSTALLED HORIZONTALLY & WORK PROPERLY DUE TO THE FLOAT POSITION, WHAT'S YOUR OPINION?????
Is wrong installed ,but when you stopped condenser unit not water will be produced and customer has air handler blowing into the house , that isn’t really bad.
👍
Why not break yellow instead of red cause float switch mostly say break Yellow
You certainly can. Some people prefer to do that.
Breaking Y, or yellow, the outdoor unit/compressor call works for AC units and heat pumps, but if you have a condensing furnace creating condensate, you have to look at which W call controls it. If you use one float switch for all condensate, they you'll likely need to break the R to kill signals to both/all sources.
@@jkbrown5496 a lot Trans /American Standard and ICP that have float switch they use yellow . Rheem and Goodman float switch are on Red from all systems seen . I was always told float switch to yellow .I still learning HVAC
Could just break the y signal.
6 inch pump ups would have been a better option than that.
Don't you wish they were all this easy?
😅😂🤣
🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃🍇🏌🏻♀️
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses.
That easy mistake is always made...