6:09 Hola 👋 señor Dave I’m glad you made this video cause one big problem that I noticed when I was working in remodeling was that the drain pan in the attic the pvc pipe got clogged with some debris and the drain pan started collecting the water that can’t drain out and then the pan started dripping onto the ceiling and then water damage and then chaos 😫I had to go in the attic remove all the wet insulation and work around the AC guys then cut out the sheet rock ceiling dry out all the joists and put new insulation and install new Sheetrock tape and bed texture and paint and “ just like nothing ever happened “👀😳I hope your followers will check this to avoid the problem of a huge problem…Gracias!!! for helping us with your knowledge I hope you have a great day and a great weekend…Saludos!!!👋😃👋
This is a very big problem, it's caused by the condensate drain getting clogged. Configuration of the drain system and regular maintenance are crutial.
Thanks so much!! I truly appreciate followers like yourself. Where are you located? I’m always looking for trustworthy hvac contractors in different cities.
@@CC-hv5hk What an incredibly helpful comment!! I don't know what people on RUclips would do if you weren't on here leaving such helpful comments!! It's encounters with people like you that put smiles on faces and make this world a wonderful place! Thanks for being so humble and selfless!! While the previous **might** have been sarcastic, the following is sincere. We've all had a bad day and I assume you were that day. It's all good man. I was just having fun and joking around I'm hopes of lightening the mood. I truly do hope you're having a better day today, and that you're in a better place than you were when you left that message. Take care, and God bless you my brother! He can always help us regardless of what we're going through. All we have to do is put our trust and faith in Him! ✌🏼
I had to call for service about just this thing many years ago (2003) . The technician who came out invited me to watch every step of his process, and made sure that I understood that I could do this preventively in the future. For his hour of time he only charged me $35, which was pretty remarkable, considering he also gave me valuable training that has saved me quite a bit over the years. I was very sad when his company sold off his customer list when he retired. Now the company is one of the "advertises on the evening local news" HVAC companies, and they are in the business of selling new units at every opportunity. FORTUNATELY... I married into a family that has a relative who is co-owner of an HVAC company, and he's both young and honest. Your videos are top notch and very useful!
The deserve repeat business when you need them, good for you. When I change my filter, Monthly, I pour a half a cup bleach down a T that I installed at the outlet of the air handler in my house to give me access to keep my condensate line clear. I don't wait until it's clogged causing problems. It's called preventive maintenance. Shop vac is a good way too without my T solution. Both Easy Peasy.
Older units don’t have an easy access panel to condensation coils or the pan. Taking P-trap cap off using funnel best option on longer runs pouring a warm mixed bleach gallon of water and then running a shop vac at the other end is best. My home 28 years old at the time was clogged very bad. What you just showed in video most never clean ever, it’s a good idea to do yearly.. Along with cleaning dryer vents with shop vac especially if you have long runs. Can use shop vac at exhaust end, and blower or air nozzle from inside dryer side running at the same time . That gets rid of a lot of blockage. People don’t realize if you don’t clean out your dryer vents the lint that gets caught in there (mainly because they screwed it together , and the screws are sticking so far in the vent it catches the lint )is a major cause of fires Over time. A good indication is it’s taking way too long to dry your clothes then it was taken before.
Wow, you video was fantastic and SPOT ON! Tonight my thermostat was blank, started troubleshooting, checked Voltage and found none, found another video that said this COULD be caused by an open circuit from a float sensor. Went down and noticed the pan in my basement under the air handler was FULL of water. My line was not clogged but the pump was full of sludge and not pumping. We've been in the new home for right at 4 years and I never knew what this unit was and that I should be checking it. I took it all apart, cleaned and working like a champ. What a learning lesson tonight and your video really helped educate me on my new quarterly project. Thanks for posting!
Our ac has been shutting off. We called an ac company for a quote for repair. $1900 to clean the line and unit. I saw your video and my husband and I did this. It worked. It’s working normal again 🙌🏼. Thank you 😊
I have two units in the attic and I am a senior citizen. Today I bought a shop vac and there were some fine particles of yellow dust when I checked. Your video has convinced me that by doing this once a year will keep me from climbing ladders. Thank you!
Yes it will but do it about 3 times a year!! Also use algae tabs. I'm the president of my HOA here in SE Florida and I send out emails reminding all of my homeowners about this issue at the end of April.
Like the content, just retired from hvac business of 40 years. Only 1 suggestion I noticed over the years, I would not use vinegar in the condensate for 2 reasons. 1 - it will eat thru the glue joints if used quarterly 2 - it acts as a solvent or etching liquid with copper piping/solder joints. Great information for the general public, I commend you for it.
Vinegar cannot eat the pvc glue, neither can bleach. Hell even muriatic acid won’t touch it. These are silly myths. Condensate lines can remove 4-9 gallons of water per day in the green grass states especially. A pint of bleach a quarter won’t do much
Wow what an honor to be commenting to an HVAC vet! I just started my apprenticeship and ive already learned so much but ik theres still much to grasp. One question, what would be the best alternative to vinegar in a scenario where you would need to flush the pipes?
Thanks for the tip. I do the bleach thing every year both upstairs & downstairs a few ounces of bleach in a gallon of water in both drains. My reminder to do this is every year when I clean my electronic air cleaners I do this, never had a problem with my drains. FLY NAVY!!!
@@poolahpot I guess you are asking for my interpretation rather than asking google (a small number) so here's my take. One ounce is one, a couple is two, a few is three. Are you a lawyer or just planning to go to law school? FLY NAVY!!!
The bleach vapors can wreck havoc on your evap coil. Would not recommended bleach. Any hvac manufacturer would say the same. You’re risking serious damage to the evap coil. This tech should know this. I question his actual real life experience
My A/C techs years ago directed me to never use bleach as you described or even vinegar. They recommend using a shop vacuum at the drain outside and pour hot tap water in the P trap you showed in the video. I am in Central Florida and do that several times a year just to make sure, especially just before the hot season and once again in early August. I suck out nasty white goo after pouring over a gallon of how water through the system. I have done this for years and never have a problem with the drain becoming blocked.
But why not bleach or vinegar???? My tech showed me how to vacuum out the line but also recommended Drain-Solve (very acidic) and that would be obviously stronger than bleach/vinegar. He told me to flush it with hot water and to make sure to do that after vacuuming so the line won't be empty. Did they explain why not to use bleach?
Hi 👋 I've been doing HVAC repairs of residential systems for 20 years in South Florida. This doesn't upset me at all. In fact, I can give you a couple of pointers. It's called bio slime and get a stronger vacuum in terms of horsepower. We need enough suction to clear the existing blockage and get any blobs at the drain pan nipple sucked out. This takes power! 😊
What hp is sufficient? Which one do you like? Also, what are some reasons for a line needing to be cleaned every 2 weeks or so in FL? Keep having techs come out and just suck water, say it’s not clogged, it’s bizarre!
@funwithbrittanyofficial -5 HP or more -Short answer. No winter. More on the web. -Clog, prevention on homes, that produce a vast amount of slime all year.
I'm in Florida and had this issue about 3 years ago. Contractor came out and I saw the method first hand and no more than 3 months later, same issue. My AC is located with the pan about 4 feet above the ground level outside but the original install had the PVC pipe of about 4 feet horizontal before it angled down to the garage floor and then beneath the floor to the outside. Gravity had bowed the horizontal portion at least to the diameter of the pipe. I replaced the pipe just outside of the pan with a 90-degree elbow down, then some clear tubing to two 45's to horizontal. Then a tee with the ability to drain down as well as across to the original pipe near the floor. A valve beneath the tee, when open, causes the condensate to drop down from the tee and travel to a series of 5 gallon buckets in the garage. I get easily (during humid times) 50 gallons over about 2+ to 3 days. If I need to bug out for a few days I close the valve and that diverts the flow to the outside. A rare occasion. 750 gallons a month for plants and I have not had an issue since. Special case though since the pan elevation has to be high enough to allow for the water to drain by gravity into your buckets.
Thank you for saving me lots of dough bro. I cleaned the drain, and boooooom .... no more icing on the evaporator. I check both units inside and outside and clean them at least twice a year but honestly until I saw your video it never occurred to me to clean the drain pipe for two reasons. One, the installer told me at the time of installation he was gluing the fittings to the drain and never should I touch that. Two, I kept seeing water dripping out of the drain outside the house so I assumed everything is normal. Well the water dripping outside is from the overflow drain. The main drain is where the P-trap is located. I took the P-trap apart and lots of sludge came out. I have lots to be thankful for, and you are on my list.
Just make sure u turn off the system, or on the newer ones you will trigger the overload sensors ( by water flowing the sensors) and shut the ac down by putting it in flood mode. I ran into that a few times.
Guys I just fixed mine I did exactly what he told me and it worked I had a bunch of gunk in their Brown yucky stuff. I also added hydrogen peroxide and I kid you not it worked like a charm. It removed all the gunk inside I just used a simple old used toothbrush to remove all the gunk. Thanks my guy. You just saved me $150 bucks...😂😂 RUclips University
Here in the Midwest where we have basements, our AC condensate tube runs to the sump basin and eventually gets pumped outside the house. And my gravity fed tube actually backed up a few years ago causing water to pool on the floor. So it's always a good idea to periodically inspect that tube for proper drainage.
A few years back my AC abruptly stopped working and I immediately called the AC repairman. He promptly showed up, connected a shopvac to my drain line, sucked out the debris, charged me $100 and left (all in ten minutes time). Needless to say, I purchased my own shopvac directly afterwords.
@@USMCAllTheWayWOW!!! Dude just yesterday wanted to charge me 320 to flush mine out😮. My condensate drains directly into my plumbing system that goes to my septic tank. As soon as he left, I bought a fitting and hooked a garden hose to flush it!!!
Great information, a little maintenance on this condensate line can minimize a lot of downtime on your AC unit. They always get plugged up at the worst times!
I use painters tape to seal the hose end to the drain pipe to suction. I also ziptie fine mesh screen over the drain pipe end to prevent insects from entering it.
Many, many thanks for your easy-to-do tips on prevention. I am a 77 year old widow who knows her way around a toolbox but sometimes needs a hand. Not often but enough to be wary, I get the hard sell from a service person on all the additional work I just must have done even when I know better. Whew!! Videos like yours really help to keep me in the know so I can keep a bit more of that S. S. check! Thank you so much.
When I ran my drain line, I used electrical PVC “sweep” elbows so I would be able, if necessary, to push a fish tape or small snake through to clear any clogs. As an alternative, I could use a vacuum to pull a string through, then use the string to pull a foam “mouse” through. So far there hasn’t been any problems with my drain. Proper planning prevents problems.
FYI, new systems have all aluminum evaporator coils. And if you use bleach (which is corrosive) you can damage it. This especially on electric air handlers because instead of pushing air through the evaporator coil on a gas furnace, the air is pulled through the evaporator coil. Which could potentially pull the bleach into the evaporator coil area. Best to use white vinegar only. Also you can disassemble your condensation pump for better cleaning. On this type of pump there's a clip on the side to remove the tray.
I use 1" hot tub bromine tablets and I add them straight to my condensate line via the cleanout. I add about one a year. My pipes are 100% free of mold or slime. I also use them on my toilets using Fluidmaster's flush and sparkle system so it doesn't damage the rubber in the tank. Have never had any problems and the water runs free and clear.
Thank you!!! I woke up to a hot house, I am new to HVAC and watched this video and it worked like a charm. I used my home vac, didnt have a shop vac. Thank you!
Here in Houston, the condenser is in the attic and the main condensation drain line runs into the top of a vent stack. You might hear it dripping in the plumbing inside the wall while it's running but it won't be visible outside. If the main line is obstructed, the overflow pan will start filling. This typically drains out under the eave. If you see water dripping from a pipe under the eave it's time to check for obstructions upstairs.
@@frankiec5570More than likely it's the condenser, not the compressor. Air handlers are often put up in attics. When placed in the attic there should be a main condensate line plus an auxiliary line that drips in an area that is noticeable (over a doorway is a good place because you will see it coming in or out of your house. The convenience of seeing the supplemental line dripping outweighs the aesthetics of a condensate line coming out of soffit). The second line is only there if the first line fails so water will only come out if the main condensate line has a problem. The secondary condensate line won't drip unless the main one has a problem so you don't have to worry about water always coming out. And always have an alarm on the pan that is hooked up to the air handler. The alarm float will turn the air handler off so if both lines are clogged there won't be water damage. I can't tell you how many houses I go in and see the top floor ceiling with a water stain from HVAC systems condensate lines clogging in the attic. One other thing I've seen that causes the secondary condensate line to clog is when people go in the attic and accidentally kick - spill attic insulation into the pan. If the main line gets clogged it drips into the pan. Once the pan fills up enough the attic insulation will float to the entrance of the secondary condensate line and clog it up. That's why an alarm with float is a solid way to protect yourself.
I'm w/you Frankie. The EVAPERATOR is in the attic to provide cooling to the interior; the condensing unit,(which contains the Compressor, condensing coil & other components) is placed outdoors . DJ-TX
Just had the HVAC tuneup 4 months ago and I got a cup of water and some slime out of the drain pipe. Deep sigh... I was very unhappy half a dozen years ago when the A/C stopped working on a 113F day. And I was very happy the next day when I ran across an HVAC guy at my chiro's office and bought a $15 cap from him which fixed my unit.
Only one cup? In Florida if your pipe is clogged it will fill his shop vac with water and 2 cups of slime on a new unit after a year. You have to suck the line out twice a year in Florida and you will fill half a five gallon bucket.
Thank you for a great video. I have 4 units and have started doing some of the cleaning myself. I really appreciate your saying not to put pressure through the lines as I was thinking why not do that instead of being on the receiving end and sucking it out. Definitely won’t do it. Really appreciate!
I use a cheap hand held Harbor Freight transfer pump with hose connected to a rubber wedge to seal to the PVC pipe. You can push air and pull air. Very effective without using high pressure compressed air. Many homes I come across have what I call a "plumbers special" under the sink where the condensate tees into the sink drain before the trap. Many plumbers use a tee fitting where the sink drain tailpipe extends down thru the tee, restricting the flow of AC condensate. The trick is to cut that tailpipe back where both the sink drain and condensate drain have full flow. Then I connect the condensate drain back with a rubber coupling (if it's rigid PVC) for easier future accessibility. Also, using a quarter turn ball valve at the evaporator with a tee right after enables you to clear the drain line without cutting the pipe in the future.
There may be comments covering this, but I would also notify the uninitiated about their secondary line. It's rare that I run across someone who actually knows why that PVC is sticking out over their kitchen window. If they do proper maintenance on their primary drain, they'll never know what it's for. But once they see that dripping...
Too funny. I actually figured this GREAT tip out on my own out of desperation when one of the head units from our Mini-split was leaking. I couldn't figure out how to put the drain tablets into the head unit drain pan (Mitsubishi really keeps everything tight), so I used a small shop vac on the outside drain pipe, just like you showed, and it worked. Is there any secret to Minisplit heat pumps and head units? Do I put the tablets in the outside heat pump/AC unit? Your videos are fantastic, and I genuinely appreciate all you do for homeowners by sharing these tips.
i had a clogged condensate drain with a lot of bends for my drain pipe and the vacuum method only got some of the gunk out. it was still clogged and my drain pan continued to overflow. i got the idea of pouring some chlorine into the pan and it started foaming a lot. after letting it sit for about 15 min, i came back and there was lots of gunk floating in the pan. i continued to wait and the clog eventually cleared itself. i now use those tabs you recommend and hope to never have to deal with a clogged condensate drain again.
Wow! I cannot tell you how many times we've had this issue and the cost involved in a downed AC. What I've done is pushed my hose pipe up the pvc pipe and flushed the pipe on the outside.
Why would you do this? You’re literally spraying water the opposite direction of the drain, and risking flooding the evap coil which would leak out into your blower and electrical components in the FAU, or leak out into your home/attic. Not a good idea to spray water up through the drain.
In the spring 🌻when I clean my indoor unit and outdoor unit I just add environmental tabs in the evaporator pan , clean my traps and check all my electrical connections especially on my disconnect and contactors .
My condensate line drains into my washer drain inside my house so luckily I never have to worry about this, nor a messy puddle next to my outside unit.
When they built my house the hvac guy ran the drain down to the slab and cut it off flush with the outside wall before they stuccoed it. We were in the desert an it was usually dry but one August it was humid, the water backed up an shorted out the blower motor. I was able to measure carefully, chiseled out the stucco and found the pipe first try. A coupler & short piece of pipe plus a small piece of screen to keep the bugs out and all was good.
Just got out the ol' shop vac and did it. Pulled an inch long plug out and she's draining fine. Thanks for your help! Take a Like and a Subscription for sure.
Reminds me of a company where I did facility maintenance. Twice I got a call saying it was raining in the computer room. Both times I ascertained it was the HVAC unit. I grabbed a portable air bottle and blew the line out. I got four hours for twenty minutes of work. They finally got the HVAC guys to regularly clean the drain.
I was a painter in florida hospital 40 yrs i worked weekends in the ER THE same room would get flooded every so often ,tv every thing soaked the air handler the next floor would shut down and dump out water, when they had power bumps
The Little Giant Condensate Pump owners manual does not recommend any kind of cleaning solution. So, I called the factory. The factory rep told me to never use bleach because it would damage the pump and motor seals. The only thing they would agree to was white vinegar and water. That's all I use to clean my pump. My pump, and 15ft. drain tube, is very clean and clear after 12 years. I have changed the CV-10 check valve two times. They can go bad.
4:59 "That's...impressive". In south Florida, it's "was ALL THAT in the pipes??" You can't comprehend how quickly "snot" builds up in HVAC drain lines.
I got a new HVAC system installed approx. five years ago and the contractor specified that I pour a cup of bleach into the condensate drain upon each air filter change, which I do quarterly. Great video! Thanks.
I pour a cup of bleach in mine as well about once a month and then make sure I run it a few minutes later so it mixes with the water. Never a problem in five years.
That's ok, but bleach may cause issues with the PVC pipes and joints. My HVAC installer suggested white vinegar. It's just as acidic, and doesn't contain chlorine, the third letter in PVC. (Chloride)
I could have used you last week. Here in Florida they put the units up in the attic and the condensers outside. 3 wks ago had my air guy check my units and change the filters, everything was fine. Then a week later my ceiling was leaking, seems this guy dislodged something in 1 of the units when changing the filter and caused a backup of the condensation overflowing in the pan and leaking into all the attic and ceiling! Now caused thousands of dollars of damage, he is fired.
Great vid. My basement ac is different but the basics still apply. Here are some differences. The p trap is the worst area 4 me imcluding buildup of dead bugs and wasps, probably comimg in via the furmace vent that doesn't have a screen yet. I pour diluted bleach there into the transparent p trap. Evidently this is a common spot to clog since the installers put in access for a u shaped brush to clean out the trap. Mine drains into the basement drain probably because of.cold winters and high efficiency furnace condensate.
Florida here. Cost like $240 to have someone come out and clean the slim for you, but a tech was nice and just showed me how to do it myself a few years ago.
Out here on the West Coast we just put in an inexpensive condensation collector next to the HVAC unit inside that has a reservoir that collects the condensation and then when it reaches about an inch and a half deep it automatically activates the pump and it blows it out through a copper pipe into the garden. This is inexpensive and works a heck of a lot better than depending upon gravity.
Been in residential construction for over 30 years. Never rely on a mechanical item (pumps) if a simpler way is available. And a 3/4" line should only have an issue a the trap that is easy to clear with brushes made for that or a coat hanger in a pinch. Filling the trap with bleach at the beginning of the cooling season or filling with hot water as mentioned by others. If a condensate pump has to be used it is highly recommended it come with a float plus shut off valve to turn the unit off and alarm the homeowner. And in the Mid-Atlantic area the main unit is in the basement where the condensate line goes to a floor drain. That line needs to be maintained as well.
Beginning of this AC season we noticed a wet spot in the carpeting of our living room near the wall where our AC condensate line drips into the bathroom sink drain. It had come apart INSIDE the wall!! The base of the wall (behind a bookshelf) was damp to the touch and I could hear the drip/drip/drip when the AC was running and it would stop when the AC turned off. Frigging mess! Pulled up carpet and blew a fan for several days to dry it out. AC guy came and rather than have to tear apart the wall beneath the AC, he rerouted the pan drain in the attic over to where the tub stand-pipe was and tied into that. Genius! It seems they built the AC over the top of the drain in the wall, so servicing it from the attic would be nearly impossible without disassembling the whole air distribution end of the unit.
A plumber had to snake mine out last year and he recommended using Pine-Sol to maintain it. Check it every year. I had water all over my garage from the AC closet in a manner of minutes.
Great Vid! I already kinew this but its a reminder to do mine again . So Cal 90 percent of homes drain into a wye branch tail piece at a sink , then we dump secondary over a window. Im in plumbing but facinated with hvac as well. I use warm water and bleach
I’ve found it easier to link a water hose, stick the end in the outside fitting of the condensate line, unkink the hose for about 2 seconds, pull it out and let the suction to the work. So easy anyone can do it and everyone has a hose but not everyone has a shop vac. Just be careful not to use too much water or you’ll overflow the line.
I always use a shop vac connrcted to my a/c discharge pipe and run it for about 10 minutes, once a month. I also add 8 oz of NuLine condensate drain cleaner to the air handler every two months.
THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO, AND ALL YOUR OTHER VIDEOS THEY HELPED TREMENDOUSLY... I just wanted to say if I knew this 2 years ago it would have been so much easier for me, because my unit is in the attic and I have a tight attic but it we had a leak up there and we thought it was the attic fan or something else , anyway I started to have a leak upstairs from the unit in the attic to the upstairs was coming down from the upstairs hallway ceiling and ruining one of the walls so I call someone I know, he got up in the attic and he used a air gun or some type of pressure gun I don't know what it's called in the plumbing industry?? But he told me to go out back to where all the gun comes out through the condescending pipe I guess and once he blew that are gun into the PVC pipe or the pipe in the attic I should have had a mark which pipe it was, but needless to say a bunch of Gunk came out from that pipe out back, the league stopped immediately. So thank you for making this video and all the videos you make keep making the great content.. IF YOU OR ANYBODY READING THE COMMENTS KNOW WHAT THAT AIR OR PRESSURE GUN THAT GOES IN THE PVC PIPE AND GET THE GUNK OUT IF ANYONE KNOWS WHAT THAT'S CALLED PLEASE LET ME KNOW IN THE COMMENTS THANK YOU DIY HVAC GUY APPRECIATE ALL THE VIDEOS...
I couldn't fully clear my condensate line by vacuuming, blowing, flushung etc. Always backed up and shut the system down. Came across a link to pour muriatic acid in the condensate line, let it sit for 30 minutes, then flush it out with hot water, cleared the line perfectly. I was told condensate from your ac is not only water but a mixture of pollution it's discharging called Sima. It's like a film similar to a snake skin that was shed.
I got stationed here in FL 32 years ago and learned a few things along the way. This is a practice I have followed religiously for years. Twice yearly, usually in the fall (Oct/Nov) after the heat, and again in the spring (Mar/Apr) before the heat I pour 1 cup of bleach in the evap coil catch tray of the air handler. Now wait 5 min and chase it with about a quart of very hot water. No go see what came out your drain. It's like washing out a giant booger or blowing your nose while fighting a sinus infection. You know what I am talking about.
I like an electric air cleaner and UV-C lights in the duct work. Change the tubs 1x per yr. Keep the outside coil clean. For the cost of service, it pays to use a good a/c man. And he can add freon if u need it( this is very important- too little and the unit will never shut off!! 😊 the outside unit should be in the shade not the sun!! Just stand in the sun for 10 minutes and see how hot is?? Real hot!! Thats why u hire the a/c man to do the work!
Not me. He can keep recommending bleach into your drain pump. Can’t wait for the calls about pump failure or the evap coil being destroyed. He’s not even aware that the bleach vapors alone are enough to damage the coil. This is why every single manufacturer will say don’t use bleach on or near your system. Just like he recommends everybody installing a 5” Honeywell media cleaner. Those are great, when the system is designed for them. When they aren’t, which is the vast majority, those media cleaners create so much positive static pressure that blower motors and condenser fan motors burn out at an extremely high rate due to the added stress. Not to mention the compressors. Any real tech knows this.
I used 2 shop vacs and I melted the plastic. One sucking and one blowing. Wasn’t working. My best approach that worked was a water hose. In Florida what came out was the same mineral deposits as what you would expect from a water heater. Which confused me. Cause I was like this is condensate not Florida hard water Great video…. For men. This will happen when you’re out of town and your lady calls you freaking out that water is all in the garage and you can’t immediately solve the problem.
I like to block the vent pipe. Usually I use a piece of duct tape. Often the clog is upstream of the vent and the pipe at that point may remain clogged if the vent is open. Many units have a trap. I see the clog occur in the trap very often. The trap is upstream of the vent.
My unit is in my attic. My mother had HVAC friends that helped her when she had water from the HVAC system leak. I never looked at it because she said she had it covered...lol I went up there and it was hilarious. Yes, they didn't glue the PVC. Its low pressure so I get it. I cleaned everything up and it worked great. 6 months later it failed. I went to home depot and bought a new pump and plumbed it with nylon hose with a elbow and a barbed fitting in the eves. When it was 100f a week ago, filled a 5 gallon bucket over night.
In south Texas the condensate runs into the house plumbing. No outside unless the drain pan gets full then it flows out near the front door. So vacuum won’t work here.
Thank you. I was thinking I've never seen that pipe on the exterior of my house. In my attic, it disappears, lol. I'll throw some solution in the T fitting and add a cap as neither of my units have caps.
I live in the south along the coast. The humidity is ridiculous. Heat pumps run on cooling 10 months out of the year. On the two story homes the drain runs over the garage ceiling. I know several people that don't know about this type of maintenance and the ceiling in their garages have collapsed from not maintaining the equipment. This year we've already had hvac company out twice to clean the lines.
In the South, these are notorious for being clogged by dirt dauber wasps. The water will back up and overflow the pan. It can be a disaster for hardwood floors. Algae buildup is a pain too.
I had this issue yesterday, house was hot all day. The drain line was clogged but using just the vinegar trick alone was enough to solve everything. Now my house is freezing! 😊🥶
I did HVAC in an industrial facility (About 8 million sq feet or A/C floor space ,hundreds of units)every year we fought that battle. In machining areas oils and chemicals were troublesome. We were prohibited from using any of common evaporator tabs(air chemical contamination). Condensate pumps failed regularly .
Live in Houston area. Main A/C drain(s) frequently goes to just above the trap of a bathroom sink(s). I use the shop vac there, its often a pain to pull the drain hose off of the plumbing. Outside is the secondary drain(s). If dripping, primary is clogged. Ideally, if the primary drain and secondary drain are clogged, there is a switch on the pan that senses the water filling the pan and tells the A/C not to turn on at all. Secondary note: I have seen where the trap in the bathroom gets clogged with hair and gunk. The A/C drain is working properly and is draining to the sink trap. With the trap clogged the condensate can't get through the trap and backs-up into the sink and eventually the sink overflows from the condensate. Code shouldn't allow this design in my opinion.
So the hvac drain is connected to the plumbing sink drain? I have never heard of that situation. I would think that would not be allowed at all to be honest. The hvac drain is a slow drip vs the sink drain is a large volume of water flushing out. That would be concerning to me as well. If there is no code against that there should be for sure!
In my house, the coils are in the attic and there are some long pvc runs for the drainage. I was able to knock and shake a pipe, and could hear a whoosh as it dislodged a slime blockage. So some vibration can good.
I have DiversiTech CP-22 Pump on my A/C unit (was install everything new including duct work less than 4 years ago and I rarely use the A/C). The pump turns on but it doesn't seem to pump the water out to the outside so I took the pump out and it looks brand new and tested the following scenarios: - Tested outside and obviously the water rushing out - Using the compressor to blow the air through the 1/4" cooper drain coil and the air comes out at the other end so most likely it's not clogged. - Plugging it back w or w/o the one way valve, the pump turns on and I do see the water going through the clear plastic portion (only about 6" then it connects to the copper tube) but it doesn't come out to the outside of the house. I tested a day before and it comes out a little bit at some point. I am guessing the pump is not strong enough to push it through the 7' or 7.5' going up to the attic and 25' in the attic but not sure if it was a partial clogged coil or the pump itself. One would think that the coil is new when they install the whole brand new system including duct and duct registers. How do you recommend to clean the 1/4" cooper drain coil?
Thank you for giving the homeowners the courage to try working on their own hvac units. Most will end up damaging something and call a contractor to fix
I had my ac guy tell me to pour cleaning vinegar down the pipe. Also to use compress air. On my pancake air compressor you can control the pressure so i set it to low.
Bought a home where they’d used compressed air to blow a line out and blew out the vent in the attic, particulate and moisture all over the place, cost me a new blower motor and it randomly blew a fuse that “these never blow, that’s weird” sooo…I’d recommend against it. Blower motors in the units made these days have a computer on board and they run shy of $2k so not the old cheap fix it was at one time.
I'm not a HVAC contractor but i've seen too many plugged up AC drains from relatives and they keep calling the AC repair guy and i told them, pour 1oz of bleach into the drain through the overflow sensor once a month and install a drilled cap at the end of the outside drain pipe, especially if it's larger than 1". I clean the cap once a month from buggers and never had a clog. One guy had 3 dead frogs inside his 2" drain pipe!
a few things, I live on the gulf coast, and used to have frequent backups all along the condensate path. I haven't had a backup since last August. You need a P trap between the condensate pump and the AC. Without the P trap, air gets sucked up the condensate drain, which makes algae much quicker. There are stronger condensate pumps available. I live in a house with 8 foot ceilings, the pump is on the floor, it has to go over the rafters in the ceiling so 8.5 foot climb. The pump was rated for 9.5 feet. I got one that was rated for 12 feet. I think 1/25 HP to 1/18HP. The old pump would run continuously, and the AC would sometimes turn off due to the condensate pump not being able to keep up with the water flow. The new pump runs for 20 seconds every 5 minutes. While I was waiting for the HVAC tech to come and fix it the first time, I was emptying buckets. The 3.5 ton AC makes about 3 gallons an hour. I got a different probiotic that i got from lowes (in their fix and clean your own AC section) that I added last summer that seems to have completely solved the algae issue, no vinegar or bleach, it has been clear for 8 months. I used to blow it out with the air compressor (3/8 inch copper line) every other month.
Few years ago I bought a new house. HVAC was in the crawl space. Couple of days after running A/C I noticed something wasn't right. Went into the crawl space and found HVAC flooded. When they installed the condensate line they didn't bother making sure it was plumbed correctly on the way out through the foundation. Instead of the line gradually sloping down, it was actually pointing up, causing water to flow backwards into the HVAC. Yes, I couldn't believe the stupidity...
Appreciate the video. My AC drainage drips into a hole that goes under a slab foundation. Would dropping these tablets help keeping that line clean? Deal with a back-up every May when we start the use the AC again. I've been told it's because of the build-up of condensation gunk when the AC units is not in use.
If your condensate drain plugs up your filter is bypassing air. Should have a space guard filter installed on your system. Dirt on the coil is dirt and dander and hair that your filter missed.
I had an issue related to this in 1988, the first time I ever lived in a house with A/C. I moved into the home in March 1987, ran the A/C all summer, but didn't really 'know' much about the condensate drain (i.e., I saw some water dripping out but did not know how much to expect). Unbeknownst to me, the drain was clogged. Later in the winter, when I was using the furnace, the condensate line froze, water backed up to the furnace (gas) and the air handler kept shutting off. An HVAC service call cost me a lot of money. The tech immediately knew the water had backed up because the drain was frozen. Thawed it with a hair dryer, poured bleach through the line, the built up gunk came out, etc.
I've always heard that an A/C doesn't create cold, it removes heat thereby leaving cold. However, your graphic at :46 shows the hot air being pulled in, passing over the cold coil and pumping cold air into the room. So it kind of does create cold by virtue of taking the warm air and cooling it.
The refrigerant in the coil absorbs heat and takes it outside where the condenser pulls air through the coil outside, fan on top of the condenser expels the heat out the top of the unit. It’s pretty cool how if it’s 100 degrees outside it can still expel hotter air out the top of the condenser.
On the unit with a condensate pump, a P-trap would still be necessary to stop the back flow of air into the air handler which will stop your water from draining from that pan. The P-trap is designed to help maintain the flow of water out of the condensate pan in the unit because air coming up the drain pipe will prevent the water from exiting because of the negative pressure created by the air handler. The P-trap creates a water barrier that stops that backflow of air. Why do you not have a P-trap on the line to your condensate pump?
One qualification to my original statement is the possibility of the fan preceding the cooling coil. My experience has always been the fan is after the coil so the P-trap would be required in that application but would not be required if air is being pushed through the coil instead of being pulled through the coil. And I'm guessing that is the arrangement on your system.
Every 3 months I hook up the shop vack to the outside drain and suck away. I get very little stuff since I do it often. No problems for 15 years! You can hardly tell anything comes out since I do it often. In tampa area.
6:09 Hola 👋 señor Dave I’m glad you made this video cause one big problem that I noticed when I was working in remodeling was that the drain pan in the attic the pvc pipe got clogged with some debris and the drain pan started collecting the water that can’t drain out and then the pan started dripping onto the ceiling and then water damage and then chaos 😫I had to go in the attic remove all the wet insulation and work around the AC guys then cut out the sheet rock ceiling dry out all the joists and put new insulation and install new Sheetrock tape and bed texture and paint and “ just like nothing ever happened “👀😳I hope your followers will check this to avoid the problem of a huge problem…Gracias!!! for helping us with your knowledge I hope you have a great day and a great weekend…Saludos!!!👋😃👋
This is a very big problem, it's caused by the condensate drain getting clogged. Configuration of the drain system and regular maintenance are crutial.
It is CRUCIAL that you have water safety switches in the pan and on the drain lines. Water damage is a huge mess.
Thank you just appreciate your honesty and making our HVAC more efficiently n helping my budget as a 75 year woman.thxs
Thanks!, you’ve helped me so many times. My only regret is I don’t have an HVAC in town with your honesty.
Thanks so much!! I truly appreciate followers like yourself. Where are you located? I’m always looking for trustworthy hvac contractors in different cities.
@@diyhvacguy Milford,Pennsylvania
Well go to the next town chep o.
@@CC-hv5hk What an incredibly helpful comment!! I don't know what people on RUclips would do if you weren't on here leaving such helpful comments!! It's encounters with people like you that put smiles on faces and make this world a wonderful place! Thanks for being so humble and selfless!!
While the previous **might** have been sarcastic, the following is sincere. We've all had a bad day and I assume you were that day. It's all good man. I was just having fun and joking around I'm hopes of lightening the mood. I truly do hope you're having a better day today, and that you're in a better place than you were when you left that message. Take care, and God bless you my brother! He can always help us regardless of what we're going through. All we have to do is put our trust and faith in Him! ✌🏼
I had to call for service about just this thing many years ago (2003) . The technician who came out invited me to watch every step of his process, and made sure that I understood that I could do this preventively in the future. For his hour of time he only charged me $35, which was pretty remarkable, considering he also gave me valuable training that has saved me quite a bit over the years. I was very sad when his company sold off his customer list when he retired. Now the company is one of the "advertises on the evening local news" HVAC companies, and they are in the business of selling new units at every opportunity. FORTUNATELY... I married into a family that has a relative who is co-owner of an HVAC company, and he's both young and honest. Your videos are top notch and very useful!
The deserve repeat business when you need them, good for you. When I change my filter, Monthly, I pour a half a cup bleach down a T that I installed at the outlet of the air handler in my house to give me access to keep my condensate line clear. I don't wait until it's clogged causing problems. It's called preventive maintenance. Shop vac is a good way too without my T solution. Both Easy Peasy.
Older units don’t have an easy access panel to condensation coils or the pan. Taking P-trap cap off using funnel best option on longer runs pouring a warm mixed bleach gallon of water and then running a shop vac at the other end is best.
My home 28 years old at the time was clogged very bad.
What you just showed in video most never clean ever, it’s a good idea to do yearly..
Along with cleaning dryer vents with shop vac especially if you have long runs. Can use shop vac at exhaust end, and blower or air nozzle from inside dryer side running at the same time . That gets rid of a lot of blockage.
People don’t realize if you don’t clean out your dryer vents the lint that gets caught in there (mainly because they screwed it together , and the screws are sticking so far in the vent it catches the lint )is a major cause of fires Over time. A good indication is it’s taking way too long to dry your clothes then it was taken before.
Wow, you video was fantastic and SPOT ON! Tonight my thermostat was blank, started troubleshooting, checked Voltage and found none, found another video that said this COULD be caused by an open circuit from a float sensor. Went down and noticed the pan in my basement under the air handler was FULL of water. My line was not clogged but the pump was full of sludge and not pumping. We've been in the new home for right at 4 years and I never knew what this unit was and that I should be checking it. I took it all apart, cleaned and working like a champ. What a learning lesson tonight and your video really helped educate me on my new quarterly project. Thanks for posting!
Our ac has been shutting off. We called an ac company for a quote for repair. $1900 to clean the line and unit. I saw your video and my husband and I did this. It worked. It’s working normal again 🙌🏼. Thank you 😊
1,900 freaking dollars , that’s out of there minds!
I have two units in the attic and I am a senior citizen. Today I bought a shop vac and there were some fine particles of yellow dust when I checked. Your video has convinced me that by doing this once a year will keep me from climbing ladders. Thank you!
Yes it will!!
Yes it will but do it about 3 times a year!! Also use algae tabs. I'm the president of my HOA here in SE Florida and I send out emails reminding all of my homeowners about this issue at the end of April.
I live in Phoenix AZ and in August is the worst time of the year for us. Easy home project with the shop vac
@@dgiaccowhere do you put the algae tabs? I’m not even sure where my drain is!
Like the content, just retired from hvac business of 40 years. Only 1 suggestion I noticed over the years, I would not use vinegar in the condensate for 2 reasons. 1 - it will eat thru the glue joints if used quarterly
2 - it acts as a solvent or etching liquid with copper piping/solder joints. Great information for the general public, I commend you for it.
Vinegar cannot eat the pvc glue, neither can bleach. Hell even muriatic acid won’t touch it. These are silly myths. Condensate lines can remove 4-9 gallons of water per day in the green grass states especially. A pint of bleach a quarter won’t do much
Wow what an honor to be commenting to an HVAC vet! I just started my apprenticeship and ive already learned so much but ik theres still much to grasp. One question, what would be the best alternative to vinegar in a scenario where you would need to flush the pipes?
I thought that was bleach that would eat the joints?
Never use bleach or vinegar
Thanks for your advice.
So what would you recommend? Just use plain water?
Thanks for the tip. I do the bleach thing every year both upstairs & downstairs a few ounces of bleach in a gallon of water in both drains. My reminder to do this is every year when I clean my electronic air cleaners I do this, never had a problem with my drains. FLY NAVY!!!
what is a "few"??
@@poolahpot I guess you are asking for my interpretation rather than asking google (a small number) so here's my take. One ounce is one, a couple is two, a few is three. Are you a lawyer or just planning to go to law school? FLY NAVY!!!
I agree with your method, straight bleach can be tough on the pump. By putting 1/2 gallon through the system treats the pump and all of the pipes
Hoo-yah !
The bleach vapors can wreck havoc on your evap coil. Would not recommended bleach. Any hvac manufacturer would say the same. You’re risking serious damage to the evap coil. This tech should know this. I question his actual real life experience
My A/C techs years ago directed me to never use bleach as you described or even vinegar. They recommend using a shop vacuum at the drain outside and pour hot tap water in the P trap you showed in the video. I am in Central Florida and do that several times a year just to make sure, especially just before the hot season and once again in early August. I suck out nasty white goo after pouring over a gallon of how water through the system. I have done this for years and never have a problem with the drain becoming blocked.
Another dude reading my mind, thanks for the advice friend.
But why not bleach or vinegar???? My tech showed me how to vacuum out the line but also recommended Drain-Solve (very acidic) and that would be obviously stronger than bleach/vinegar. He told me to flush it with hot water and to make sure to do that after vacuuming so the line won't be empty. Did they explain why not to use bleach?
Mine is trickling out, I have never cleaned it out in 30 years! Thank you for all your excellent videos. Wish me luck!!!
Hi 👋 I've been doing HVAC repairs of residential systems for 20 years in South Florida. This doesn't upset me at all. In fact, I can give you a couple of pointers. It's called bio slime and get a stronger vacuum in terms of horsepower. We need enough suction to clear the existing blockage and get any blobs at the drain pan nipple sucked out. This takes power! 😊
What hp is sufficient? Which one do you like? Also, what are some reasons for a line needing to be cleaned every 2 weeks or so in FL? Keep having techs come out and just suck water, say it’s not clogged, it’s bizarre!
@funwithbrittanyofficial
-5 HP or more
-Short answer. No winter. More on the web.
-Clog, prevention on homes, that produce a vast amount of slime all year.
Biofilm
Zooglea 😏 what next
I'm in Florida and had this issue about 3 years ago. Contractor came out and I saw the method first hand and no more than 3 months later, same issue. My AC is located with the pan about 4 feet above the ground level outside but the original install had the PVC pipe of about 4 feet horizontal before it angled down to the garage floor and then beneath the floor to the outside. Gravity had bowed the horizontal portion at least to the diameter of the pipe. I replaced the pipe just outside of the pan with a 90-degree elbow down, then some clear tubing to two 45's to horizontal. Then a tee with the ability to drain down as well as across to the original pipe near the floor. A valve beneath the tee, when open, causes the condensate to drop down from the tee and travel to a series of 5 gallon buckets in the garage. I get easily (during humid times) 50 gallons over about 2+ to 3 days. If I need to bug out for a few days I close the valve and that diverts the flow to the outside. A rare occasion. 750 gallons a month for plants and I have not had an issue since. Special case though since the pan elevation has to be high enough to allow for the water to drain by gravity into your buckets.
Thank you for saving me lots of dough bro. I cleaned the drain, and boooooom .... no more icing on the evaporator. I check both units inside and outside and clean them at least twice a year but honestly until I saw your video it never occurred to me to clean the drain pipe for two reasons. One, the installer told me at the time of installation he was gluing the fittings to the drain and never should I touch that. Two, I kept seeing water dripping out of the drain outside the house so I assumed everything is normal. Well the water dripping outside is from the overflow drain. The main drain is where the P-trap is located. I took the P-trap apart and lots of sludge came out. I have lots to be thankful for, and you are on my list.
Just make sure u turn off the system, or on the newer ones you will trigger the overload sensors ( by water flowing the sensors) and shut the ac down by putting it in flood mode. I ran into that a few times.
Yes! Here in FL. My son uses a shop vac to regularly suction out the condensate drain. Fixes it every time!
My dad has a shop vac! Thanks for this!
Suction is not a verb.
@@derekholdt9707 It can be used as both.
@@derekholdt9707”Suction” can be a verb. Look it up.
@@derekholdt9707 your comment does suc and so, we will all (shun) tion you.
Stupid eh? That’s what you get for being correct.
Guys I just fixed mine I did exactly what he told me and it worked I had a bunch of gunk in their Brown yucky stuff. I also added hydrogen peroxide and I kid you not it worked like a charm. It removed all the gunk inside I just used a simple old used toothbrush to remove all the gunk. Thanks my guy. You just saved me $150 bucks...😂😂 RUclips University
probably more like$300.00!
Here in the Midwest where we have basements, our AC condensate tube runs to the sump basin and eventually gets pumped outside the house. And my gravity fed tube actually backed up a few years ago causing water to pool on the floor. So it's always a good idea to periodically inspect that tube for proper drainage.
A few years back my AC abruptly stopped working and I immediately called the AC repairman. He promptly showed up, connected a shopvac to my drain line, sucked out the debris, charged me $100 and left (all in ten minutes time). Needless to say, I purchased my own shopvac directly afterwords.
Wow, $100 is a very fair price.
mine is cloged so im using the washer machine drain instead is that ok ?
@@USMCAllTheWayWOW!!! Dude just yesterday wanted to charge me 320 to flush mine out😮. My condensate drains directly into my plumbing system that goes to my septic tank. As soon as he left, I bought a fitting and hooked a garden hose to flush it!!!
ARS in Nashville charged me $70 to come out. Told it would be $450. I said naw I went out, got a shopvac
@@michaelsanchez6816 Smart move !!
Great information, a little maintenance on this condensate line can minimize a lot of downtime on your AC unit. They always get plugged up at the worst times!
after 28 years as an hvac contractor i cannot thank you enough for encouraging home owners to DIY ..!
You are very welcome
I use painters tape to seal the hose end to the drain pipe to suction. I also ziptie fine mesh screen over the drain pipe end to prevent insects from entering it.
Wish I’d have done the mesh screen.. I watched a black snake go up our drain pipe!!
@@nccountrygal41😮
Inspiring
Many, many thanks for your easy-to-do tips on prevention. I am a 77 year old widow who knows her way around a toolbox but sometimes needs a hand. Not often but enough to be wary, I get the hard sell from a service person on all the additional work I just must have done even when I know better. Whew!! Videos like yours really help to keep me in the know so I can keep a bit more of that S. S. check! Thank you so much.
When I ran my drain line, I used electrical PVC “sweep” elbows so I would be able, if necessary, to push a fish tape or small snake through to clear any clogs. As an alternative, I could use a vacuum to pull a string through, then use the string to pull a foam “mouse” through. So far there hasn’t been any problems with my drain.
Proper planning prevents problems.
FYI, new systems have all aluminum evaporator coils. And if you use bleach (which is corrosive) you can damage it. This especially on electric air handlers because instead of pushing air through the evaporator coil on a gas furnace, the air is pulled through the evaporator coil. Which could potentially pull the bleach into the evaporator coil area. Best to use white vinegar only. Also you can disassemble your condensation pump for better cleaning. On this type of pump there's a clip on the side to remove the tray.
You read my mind. Excellent comment friend, THANKS
They have those bleach tablets as well, that are fine in the plastic pan and don't get into the coil.
Excellent video that most people just plain don't know about. This is the kind of stuff that evrey home owner needs to know. Thank you for sharing
I use 1" hot tub bromine tablets and I add them straight to my condensate line via the cleanout. I add about one a year. My pipes are 100% free of mold or slime. I also use them on my toilets using Fluidmaster's flush and sparkle system so it doesn't damage the rubber in the tank. Have never had any problems and the water runs free and clear.
Outstanding…thank you. I will do this too. Bravo 🎉
Thank you!!! I woke up to a hot house, I am new to HVAC and watched this video and it worked like a charm. I used my home vac, didnt have a shop vac. Thank you!
Here in Houston, the condenser is in the attic and the main condensation drain line runs into the top of a vent stack. You might hear it dripping in the plumbing inside the wall while it's running but it won't be visible outside. If the main line is obstructed, the overflow pan will start filling. This typically drains out under the eave. If you see water dripping from a pipe under the eave it's time to check for obstructions upstairs.
The condenser is in the attic!? Or the coil? I’ve never heard of a condenser being installed in an attic.
@@frankiec5570More than likely it's the condenser, not the compressor. Air handlers are often put up in attics. When placed in the attic there should be a main condensate line plus an auxiliary line that drips in an area that is noticeable (over a doorway is a good place because you will see it coming in or out of your house. The convenience of seeing the supplemental line dripping outweighs the aesthetics of a condensate line coming out of soffit). The second line is only there if the first line fails so water will only come out if the main condensate line has a problem. The secondary condensate line won't drip unless the main one has a problem so you don't have to worry about water always coming out. And always have an alarm on the pan that is hooked up to the air handler. The alarm float will turn the air handler off so if both lines are clogged there won't be water damage. I can't tell you how many houses I go in and see the top floor ceiling with a water stain from HVAC systems condensate lines clogging in the attic.
One other thing I've seen that causes the secondary condensate line to clog is when people go in the attic and accidentally kick - spill attic insulation into the pan. If the main line gets clogged it drips into the pan. Once the pan fills up enough the attic insulation will float to the entrance of the secondary condensate line and clog it up. That's why an alarm with float is a solid way to protect yourself.
I'm w/you Frankie. The EVAPERATOR is in the attic to provide cooling to the interior;
the condensing unit,(which contains the Compressor, condensing coil & other components) is placed outdoors . DJ-TX
Just had the HVAC tuneup 4 months ago and I got a cup of water and some slime out of the drain pipe. Deep sigh...
I was very unhappy half a dozen years ago when the A/C stopped working on a 113F day.
And I was very happy the next day when I ran across an HVAC guy at my chiro's office and bought a $15 cap from him which fixed my unit.
A/C tune up ? All new spark plugs ?
@@markme4 Plugs were fine, it was the points that were shot😊
@@JRNipper Mine had a cracked distributor cap 😆
Only one cup? In Florida if your pipe is clogged it will fill his shop vac with water and 2 cups of slime on a new unit after a year. You have to suck the line out twice a year in Florida and you will fill half a five gallon bucket.
Thank you for a great video. I have 4 units and have started doing some of the cleaning myself. I really appreciate your saying not to put pressure through the lines as I was thinking why not do that instead of being on the receiving end and sucking it out. Definitely won’t do it. Really appreciate!
I use a cheap hand held Harbor Freight transfer pump with hose connected to a rubber wedge to seal to the PVC pipe. You can push air and pull air. Very effective without using high pressure compressed air. Many homes I come across have what I call a "plumbers special" under the sink where the condensate tees into the sink drain before the trap. Many plumbers use a tee fitting where the sink drain tailpipe extends down thru the tee, restricting the flow of AC condensate. The trick is to cut that tailpipe back where both the sink drain and condensate drain have full flow. Then I connect the condensate drain back with a rubber coupling (if it's rigid PVC) for easier future accessibility. Also, using a quarter turn ball valve at the evaporator with a tee right after enables you to clear the drain line without cutting the pipe in the future.
Shop Vac works
His way is easy....I can do it.
Following your instructions with placing bleach in drain worked immediately
There may be comments covering this, but I would also notify the uninitiated about their secondary line. It's rare that I run across someone who actually knows why that PVC is sticking out over their kitchen window. If they do proper maintenance on their primary drain, they'll never know what it's for. But once they see that dripping...
Too funny. I actually figured this GREAT tip out on my own out of desperation when one of the head units from our Mini-split was leaking. I couldn't figure out how to put the drain tablets into the head unit drain pan (Mitsubishi really keeps everything tight), so I used a small shop vac on the outside drain pipe, just like you showed, and it worked. Is there any secret to Minisplit heat pumps and head units? Do I put the tablets in the outside heat pump/AC unit? Your videos are fantastic, and I genuinely appreciate all you do for homeowners by sharing these tips.
i had a clogged condensate drain with a lot of bends for my drain pipe and the vacuum method only got some of the gunk out. it was still clogged and my drain pan continued to overflow.
i got the idea of pouring some chlorine into the pan and it started foaming a lot. after letting it sit for about 15 min, i came back and there was lots of gunk floating in the pan. i continued to wait and the clog eventually cleared itself.
i now use those tabs you recommend and hope to never have to deal with a clogged condensate drain again.
Maybe somebody said it already, but a pool noodle really helps connect the vac to the drain line.
Nice!! Maybe I’ll try that next time!
Wow! I cannot tell you how many times we've had this issue and the cost involved in a downed AC. What I've done is pushed my hose pipe up the pvc pipe and flushed the pipe on the outside.
Why would you do this? You’re literally spraying water the opposite direction of the drain, and risking flooding the evap coil which would leak out into your blower and electrical components in the FAU, or leak out into your home/attic. Not a good idea to spray water up through the drain.
In the spring 🌻when I clean my indoor unit and outdoor unit I just add environmental tabs in the evaporator pan , clean my traps and check all my electrical connections especially on my disconnect and contactors .
My condensate line drains into my washer drain inside my house so luckily I never have to worry about this, nor a messy puddle next to my outside unit.
We're all super thrilled for you Matt, thanks for sharing! (not)
Mine does too and guess what, it got clogged. It was only the section of pipe before it ties in to washer line so it can still happen.
When they built my house the hvac guy ran the drain down to the slab and cut it off flush with the outside wall before they stuccoed it. We were in the desert an it was usually dry but one August it was humid, the water backed up an shorted out the blower motor. I was able to measure carefully, chiseled out the stucco and found the pipe first try. A coupler & short piece of pipe plus a small piece of screen to keep the bugs out and all was good.
Also here in the desert, rarely does anything drip out except during monsoon season.
Just got out the ol' shop vac and did it. Pulled an inch long plug out and she's draining fine. Thanks for your help! Take a Like and a Subscription for sure.
Reminds me of a company where I did facility maintenance. Twice I got a call saying it was raining in the computer room. Both times I ascertained it was the HVAC unit. I grabbed a portable air bottle and blew the line out. I got four hours for twenty minutes of work. They finally got the HVAC guys to regularly clean the drain.
I was a painter in florida hospital 40 yrs i worked weekends in the ER THE same room would get flooded every so often ,tv every thing soaked the air handler the next floor would shut down and dump out water, when they had power bumps
The Little Giant Condensate Pump owners manual does not recommend any kind of cleaning solution. So, I called the factory. The factory rep told me to never use bleach because it would damage the pump and motor seals. The only thing they would agree to was white vinegar and water. That's all I use to clean my pump. My pump, and 15ft. drain tube, is very clean and clear after 12 years. I have changed the CV-10 check valve two times. They can go bad.
4:59 "That's...impressive". In south Florida, it's "was ALL THAT in the pipes??" You can't comprehend how quickly "snot" builds up in HVAC drain lines.
Lol exactly what I was thinking. I get big lumps like elephants snot coming out!
I got a new HVAC system installed approx. five years ago and the contractor specified that I pour a cup of bleach into the condensate drain upon each air filter change, which I do quarterly. Great video! Thanks.
I pour a cup of bleach in mine as well about once a month and then make sure I run it a few minutes later so it mixes with the water. Never a problem in five years.
That's ok, but bleach may cause issues with the PVC pipes and joints. My HVAC installer suggested white vinegar. It's just as acidic, and doesn't contain chlorine, the third letter in PVC. (Chloride)
odd. bleach usually corrodes the coils.
Chlorine fumes can get to the coils and cause corrosion.
Use algae tablets. Not BLEACH OR VINEGAR
Thank you the valuable info. I’ll be checking mine out soon. Thanks again!!
I could have used you last week. Here in Florida they put the units up in the attic and the condensers outside. 3 wks ago had my air guy check my units and change the filters, everything was fine. Then a week later my ceiling was leaking, seems this guy dislodged something in 1 of the units when changing the filter and caused a backup of the condensation overflowing in the pan and leaking into all the attic and ceiling! Now caused thousands of dollars of damage, he is fired.
That sucks, I'd check and see if he's insured and if his policy will cover your damages.
I use a 3/4” pvc stub to vacuum the condensate drain pipe for clearing.
This saved me $90 for a maintenance visit. Buying some filters now. Thanks!
Great vid. My basement ac is different but the basics still apply. Here are some differences. The p trap is the worst area 4 me imcluding buildup of dead bugs and wasps, probably comimg in via the furmace vent that doesn't have a screen yet. I pour diluted bleach there into the transparent p trap. Evidently this is a common spot to clog since the installers put in access for a u shaped brush to clean out the trap. Mine drains into the basement drain probably because of.cold winters and high efficiency furnace condensate.
Florida here. Cost like $240 to have someone come out and clean the slim for you, but a tech was nice and just showed me how to do it myself a few years ago.
Out here on the West Coast we just put in an inexpensive condensation collector next to the HVAC unit inside that has a reservoir that collects the condensation and then when it reaches about an inch and a half deep it automatically activates the pump and it blows it out through a copper pipe into the garden. This is inexpensive and works a heck of a lot better than depending upon gravity.
Ive NEVER hear anyone say gravity isn’t dependable…
Hahaha
Been in residential construction for over 30 years. Never rely on a mechanical item (pumps) if a simpler way is available. And a 3/4" line should only have an issue a the trap that is easy to clear with brushes made for that or a coat hanger in a pinch. Filling the trap with bleach at the beginning of the cooling season or filling with hot water as mentioned by others.
If a condensate pump has to be used it is highly recommended it come with a float plus shut off valve to turn the unit off and alarm the homeowner.
And in the Mid-Atlantic area the main unit is in the basement where the condensate line goes to a floor drain. That line needs to be maintained as well.
Beginning of this AC season we noticed a wet spot in the carpeting of our living room near the wall where our AC condensate line drips into the bathroom sink drain. It had come apart INSIDE the wall!! The base of the wall (behind a bookshelf) was damp to the touch and I could hear the drip/drip/drip when the AC was running and it would stop when the AC turned off. Frigging mess! Pulled up carpet and blew a fan for several days to dry it out. AC guy came and rather than have to tear apart the wall beneath the AC, he rerouted the pan drain in the attic over to where the tub stand-pipe was and tied into that. Genius! It seems they built the AC over the top of the drain in the wall, so servicing it from the attic would be nearly impossible without disassembling the whole air distribution end of the unit.
Thanks for your videos. I have a gurgling package unit and when i wake up tomorrow im gonna see what comes out of the condensate line!!
9:17 Wow We might try that my wife keeps the house clean and smelling good with esencial oil diffuser 😊…see you in the next video 👋😃👋
A plumber had to snake mine out last year and he recommended using Pine-Sol to maintain it. Check it every year. I had water all over my garage from the AC closet in a manner of minutes.
Great Vid! I already kinew this but its a reminder to do mine again . So Cal 90 percent of homes drain into a wye branch tail piece at a sink , then we dump secondary over a window. Im in plumbing but facinated with hvac as well. I use warm water and bleach
Don’t ever use bleach. It will destroy evap coils. Even the vapors will do damage.
Should have mentioned the low voltage cutoff associated with the condensate pumps...sometimes it's just a stuck float.
I have a separate video dedicated to that. But that is a good point!
I’ve found it easier to link a water hose, stick the end in the outside fitting of the condensate line, unkink the hose for about 2 seconds, pull it out and let the suction to the work. So easy anyone can do it and everyone has a hose but not everyone has a shop vac. Just be careful not to use too much water or you’ll overflow the line.
I always use a shop vac connrcted to my a/c discharge pipe and run it for about 10 minutes, once a month. I also add 8 oz of NuLine condensate drain cleaner to the air handler every two months.
I vacuum out the drain about twice a year here in S. FL. Nasty stuff always comes out.
THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO, AND ALL YOUR OTHER VIDEOS THEY HELPED TREMENDOUSLY... I just wanted to say if I knew this 2 years ago it would have been so much easier for me, because my unit is in the attic and I have a tight attic but it we had a leak up there and we thought it was the attic fan or something else , anyway I started to have a leak upstairs from the unit in the attic to the upstairs was coming down from the upstairs hallway ceiling and ruining one of the walls so I call someone I know, he got up in the attic and he used a air gun or some type of pressure gun I don't know what it's called in the plumbing industry?? But he told me to go out back to where all the gun comes out through the condescending pipe I guess and once he blew that are gun into the PVC pipe or the pipe in the attic I should have had a mark which pipe it was, but needless to say a bunch of Gunk came out from that pipe out back, the league stopped immediately. So thank you for making this video and all the videos you make keep making the great content.. IF YOU OR ANYBODY READING THE COMMENTS KNOW WHAT THAT AIR OR PRESSURE GUN THAT GOES IN THE PVC PIPE AND GET THE GUNK OUT IF ANYONE KNOWS WHAT THAT'S CALLED PLEASE LET ME KNOW IN THE COMMENTS THANK YOU DIY HVAC GUY APPRECIATE ALL THE VIDEOS...
I couldn't fully clear my condensate line by vacuuming, blowing, flushung etc. Always backed up and shut the system down. Came across a link to pour muriatic acid in the condensate line, let it sit for 30 minutes, then flush it out with hot water, cleared the line perfectly. I was told condensate from your ac is not only water but a mixture of pollution it's discharging called Sima. It's like a film similar to a snake skin that was shed.
I got stationed here in FL 32 years ago and learned a few things along the way. This is a practice I have followed religiously for years.
Twice yearly, usually in the fall (Oct/Nov) after the heat, and again in the spring (Mar/Apr) before the heat I pour 1 cup of bleach in the evap coil catch tray of the air handler. Now wait 5 min and chase it with about a quart of very hot water. No go see what came out your drain. It's like washing out a giant booger or blowing your nose while fighting a sinus infection. You know what I am talking about.
I like an electric air cleaner and UV-C lights in the duct work. Change the tubs 1x per yr. Keep the outside coil clean. For the cost of service, it pays to use a good a/c man. And he can add freon if u need it( this is very important- too little and the unit will never shut off!! 😊 the outside unit should be in the shade not the sun!! Just stand in the sun for 10 minutes and see how hot is?? Real hot!! Thats why u hire the a/c man to do the work!
Man your right. I cant tell you how many hvac contractors have told me they hate you.
Not me. He can keep recommending bleach into your drain pump. Can’t wait for the calls about pump failure or the evap coil being destroyed. He’s not even aware that the bleach vapors alone are enough to damage the coil. This is why every single manufacturer will say don’t use bleach on or near your system.
Just like he recommends everybody installing a 5” Honeywell media cleaner. Those are great, when the system is designed for them. When they aren’t, which is the vast majority, those media cleaners create so much positive static pressure that blower motors and condenser fan motors burn out at an extremely high rate due to the added stress. Not to mention the compressors. Any real tech knows this.
I used 2 shop vacs and I melted the plastic. One sucking and one blowing. Wasn’t working. My best approach that worked was a water hose. In Florida what came out was the same mineral deposits as what you would expect from a water heater. Which confused me. Cause I was like this is condensate not Florida hard water Great video…. For men. This will happen when you’re out of town and your lady calls you freaking out that water is all in the garage and you can’t immediately solve the problem.
I like to block the vent pipe. Usually I use a piece of duct tape. Often the clog is upstream of the vent and the pipe at that point may remain clogged if the vent is open. Many units have a trap. I see the clog occur in the trap very often. The trap is upstream of the vent.
Great info sir. The a coil tab was something new to me and I like it. Gonna give that try. Great content my friend.
Thanks sir! Thank you for your loyal support 👊🏼
My unit is in my attic. My mother had HVAC friends that helped her when she had water from the HVAC system leak. I never looked at it because she said she had it covered...lol I went up there and it was hilarious. Yes, they didn't glue the PVC. Its low pressure so I get it. I cleaned everything up and it worked great. 6 months later it failed. I went to home depot and bought a new pump and plumbed it with nylon hose with a elbow and a barbed fitting in the eves. When it was 100f a week ago, filled a 5 gallon bucket over night.
In south Texas the condensate runs into the house plumbing. No outside unless the drain pan gets full then it flows out near the front door. So vacuum won’t work here.
Should install a "t" to allow access.
Blow with shop vac from pan or as said above at tee.
Thank you. I was thinking I've never seen that pipe on the exterior of my house. In my attic, it disappears, lol. I'll throw some solution in the T fitting and add a cap as neither of my units have caps.
@@keithlassiter why?
Thanks for another great tip. I use my shop vac to clean the drain on a regular basis.
When 8 was an insurance adjuster, I’d get at least 1 claim a week from clogged ac lines. Many of the leaks started AFTER servicing.
I live in the south along the coast. The humidity is ridiculous. Heat pumps run on cooling 10 months out of the year. On the two story homes the drain runs over the garage ceiling. I know several people that don't know about this type of maintenance and the ceiling in their garages have collapsed from not maintaining the equipment. This year we've already had hvac company out twice to clean the lines.
In the South, these are notorious for being clogged by dirt dauber wasps. The water will back up and overflow the pan. It can be a disaster for hardwood floors. Algae buildup is a pain too.
I had this issue yesterday, house was hot all day. The drain line was clogged but using just the vinegar trick alone was enough to solve everything. Now my house is freezing! 😊🥶
Our A/C runs year round in South Texas but I use the shop vac method as part of regular maintenance.
I did HVAC in an industrial facility (About 8 million sq feet or A/C floor space ,hundreds of units)every year we fought that battle. In machining areas oils and chemicals were troublesome. We were prohibited from using any of common evaporator tabs(air chemical contamination). Condensate pumps failed regularly .
Thanks! Mine runs to my sump pump in the basement.
Same here.
Live in Houston area. Main A/C drain(s) frequently goes to just above the trap of a bathroom sink(s). I use the shop vac there, its often a pain to pull the drain hose off of the plumbing. Outside is the secondary drain(s). If dripping, primary is clogged. Ideally, if the primary drain and secondary drain are clogged, there is a switch on the pan that senses the water filling the pan and tells the A/C not to turn on at all. Secondary note: I have seen where the trap in the bathroom gets clogged with hair and gunk. The A/C drain is working properly and is draining to the sink trap. With the trap clogged the condensate can't get through the trap and backs-up into the sink and eventually the sink overflows from the condensate. Code shouldn't allow this design in my opinion.
So the hvac drain is connected to the plumbing sink drain? I have never heard of that situation. I would think that would not be allowed at all to be honest. The hvac drain is a slow drip vs the sink drain is a large volume of water flushing out. That would be concerning to me as well. If there is no code against that there should be for sure!
I replied to this, did it not "take?" Search "ac drain under sink" and you should see a video the shows the plumbing.
In my house, the coils are in the attic and there are some long pvc runs for the drainage. I was able to knock and shake a pipe, and could hear a whoosh as it dislodged a slime blockage. So some vibration can good.
Great info, going to try those PurCool tablets this spring and summer.
I have DiversiTech CP-22 Pump on my A/C unit (was install everything new including duct work less than 4 years ago and I rarely use the A/C). The pump turns on but it doesn't seem to pump the water out to the outside so I took the pump out and it looks brand new and tested the following scenarios:
- Tested outside and obviously the water rushing out
- Using the compressor to blow the air through the 1/4" cooper drain coil and the air comes out at the other end so most likely it's not clogged.
- Plugging it back w or w/o the one way valve, the pump turns on and I do see the water going through the clear plastic portion (only about 6" then it connects to the copper tube) but it doesn't come out to the outside of the house. I tested a day before and it comes out a little bit at some point.
I am guessing the pump is not strong enough to push it through the 7' or 7.5' going up to the attic and 25' in the attic but not sure if it was a partial clogged coil or the pump itself. One would think that the coil is new when they install the whole brand new system including duct and duct registers. How do you recommend to clean the 1/4" cooper drain coil?
Thank you for giving the homeowners the courage to try working on their own hvac units. Most will end up damaging something and call a contractor to fix
Water does not condensate, it condenses. Great video! Thanks for making it!
I had my ac guy tell me to pour cleaning vinegar down the pipe. Also to use compress air. On my pancake air compressor you can control the pressure so i set it to low.
Bought a home where they’d used compressed air to blow a line out and blew out the vent in the attic, particulate and moisture all over the place, cost me a new blower motor and it randomly blew a fuse that “these never blow, that’s weird” sooo…I’d recommend against it. Blower motors in the units made these days have a computer on board and they run shy of $2k so not the old cheap fix it was at one time.
I'm not a HVAC contractor but i've seen too many plugged up AC drains from relatives and they keep calling the AC repair guy and i told them, pour 1oz of bleach into the drain through the overflow sensor once a month and install a drilled cap at the end of the outside drain pipe, especially if it's larger than 1". I clean the cap once a month from buggers and never had a clog. One guy had 3 dead frogs inside his 2" drain pipe!
Thank you. I'm going to change my air filter right now.
a few things, I live on the gulf coast, and used to have frequent backups all along the condensate path. I haven't had a backup since last August.
You need a P trap between the condensate pump and the AC. Without the P trap, air gets sucked up the condensate drain, which makes algae much quicker.
There are stronger condensate pumps available. I live in a house with 8 foot ceilings, the pump is on the floor, it has to go over the rafters in the ceiling so 8.5 foot climb. The pump was rated for 9.5 feet. I got one that was rated for 12 feet. I think 1/25 HP to 1/18HP. The old pump would run continuously, and the AC would sometimes turn off due to the condensate pump not being able to keep up with the water flow. The new pump runs for 20 seconds every 5 minutes. While I was waiting for the HVAC tech to come and fix it the first time, I was emptying buckets. The 3.5 ton AC makes about 3 gallons an hour.
I got a different probiotic that i got from lowes (in their fix and clean your own AC section) that I added last summer that seems to have completely solved the algae issue, no vinegar or bleach, it has been clear for 8 months. I used to blow it out with the air compressor (3/8 inch copper line) every other month.
Few years ago I bought a new house. HVAC was in the crawl space. Couple of days after running A/C I noticed something wasn't right.
Went into the crawl space and found HVAC flooded. When they installed the condensate line they didn't bother making sure it was plumbed correctly on the way out through the foundation. Instead of the line gradually sloping down, it was actually pointing up, causing water to flow backwards into the HVAC. Yes, I couldn't believe the stupidity...
Wow, it doesn’t surprise me
Appreciate the video. My AC drainage drips into a hole that goes under a slab foundation. Would dropping these tablets help keeping that line clean? Deal with a back-up every May when we start the use the AC again. I've been told it's because of the build-up of condensation gunk when the AC units is not in use.
I was told not to use bleach but vinegar. The bleach fumes may cause corrosion on the coils.
If your condensate drain plugs up your filter is bypassing air. Should have a space guard filter installed on your system. Dirt on the coil is dirt and dander and hair that your filter missed.
I had an issue related to this in 1988, the first time I ever lived in a house with A/C. I moved into the home in March 1987, ran the A/C all summer, but didn't really 'know' much about the condensate drain (i.e., I saw some water dripping out but did not know how much to expect). Unbeknownst to me, the drain was clogged. Later in the winter, when I was using the furnace, the condensate line froze, water backed up to the furnace (gas) and the air handler kept shutting off. An HVAC service call cost me a lot of money. The tech immediately knew the water had backed up because the drain was frozen. Thawed it with a hair dryer, poured bleach through the line, the built up gunk came out, etc.
I've always heard that an A/C doesn't create cold, it removes heat thereby leaving cold. However, your graphic at :46 shows the hot air being pulled in, passing over the cold coil and pumping cold air into the room. So it kind of does create cold by virtue of taking the warm air and cooling it.
The refrigerant in the coil absorbs heat and takes it outside where the condenser pulls air through the coil outside, fan on top of the condenser expels the heat out the top of the unit. It’s pretty cool how if it’s 100 degrees outside it can still expel hotter air out the top of the condenser.
There's no such thing as "cold". Technically it's lack of heat.
On the unit with a condensate pump, a P-trap would still be necessary to stop the back flow of air into the air handler which will stop your water from draining from that pan. The P-trap is designed to help maintain the flow of water out of the condensate pan in the unit because air coming up the drain pipe will prevent the water from exiting because of the negative pressure created by the air handler. The P-trap creates a water barrier that stops that backflow of air. Why do you not have a P-trap on the line to your condensate pump?
One qualification to my original statement is the possibility of the fan preceding the cooling coil. My experience has always been the fan is after the coil so the P-trap would be required in that application but would not be required if air is being pushed through the coil instead of being pulled through the coil. And I'm guessing that is the arrangement on your system.
Thanks for this video! We had to do this today. Ours was full of gunk.
Every 3 months I hook up the shop vack to the outside drain and suck away. I get very little stuff since I do it often. No problems for 15 years! You can hardly tell anything comes out since I do it often. In tampa area.