Thanks for posting! I am glad to move out of the 8% and into the 92%. I realized mine has not been cleaned out in several years, miracle that anything is flowing at the moment. I look forward to checking your other postings.
Main issue with this tip is most pipes have been glued together, and can't simply be pulled apart. If you feel comfortable you could buy the parts to recreate your existing glued pipes and then use this trick.
HVAC guy here you can do that on 1% through the t for vinager but in most you can’t cause there no reason why your drain is without glue anyway shop vac from outside plus water from inside is and will always be the way easier to imagine if is in the attic
The most important thing that was missing is make sure that you have a shut off valve on the garden hose. Cause if the drain is plugged, it’s probably going to blow the hose connector right off the pcv. Then by the time you come back in the house it’s flooded. You have to hold pressure with your hand cause it’s going to want to kick back. Guaranteed
My drain line runs through my ceiling. If I flush it using this method, I worry about the pipe breaking in the middle of my ceiling.😰 There’s an Aussie tool that fits on the end of the drain pipe outside of homes and allows you to pull a vacuum using a shop vac. My problem: I can’t find the end of my drain pipe ANYWHERE.🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️ My husband and I have looked everywhere, and we can’t figure out where the builder hid it. If we try this hose method, we’ll probably find it, but at what cost??😳
Another tip is to add a clear piece of tubing in the vertical section of the drain pipe. You can easily inspect the tubing visually to see if any water has pooled indicating a blockage.
I use vinyl tubing and it fits so tight it won’t leak without glue. All this stuff about not gluing pvc fittings is a crock. I’ve seen them leak when people forget to glue one. The only ones I don’t glue is the access tube at the top. It’s better to vacuum from outside when you can because it sucks the fittings tighter instead of blowing them apart.
Mine are all glued.. I just stuck a WET rag down the inspection (top of pipe)opening past the pipe that comes from the unit with a larger diameter drinking straw along with it. Past the pipe coming from yhe unit. Blow into the straw ant you can feel when the blockage is clear when your blowing. It's just gunk in there, and it came out easy. Remove rag & straw. And then I pour a cup of WHITE VINEGAR down the pipe once a month. Article on you-tube said bleach is TOO STRONG & WILL MELT GLUED JOINTS(????).. Not sure about that, but the installation crew said bleach when it was installed 9-10 years ago. Who knows?? Your thermostat will automatically come back on if you haven't turned it off like the guy said... That's it was easy▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎
I actually replumbed my condensate drain, I added a pvc ball valve so water could not backup into the air handler, I added a garden hose fitting and cap and I got a three way elbow so I could put another cap, this three way elbow is wide enough to drop in a little chlorine tablet (Walmart has them in the bleach isle) which dissolves right away with the water coming from the unit. The bleach kills all the mold, bacteria, biofilm, etc that clogs drains. One chlorine tab once a month and flush with the garden hose once a year and you will not have any issues.
Lots of people talking about how hard it is to do this if your pipes are glued, common people, part of being a homeowner means learning how to take care of your stuff. You should be able to work on some pvc pipes. Keep a toolbox with pvc cutter, glue, primer, and some fittings. It’s not hard!
I added a couple of things onto my drain to make life easier. 1st I glued most pvc connections. 2nd I added a "T" with a hose fitting and cap. 3rd between the air handler and and "T" I added a ball valve. The connections between ball valve and air handler are pressed together. I can close the ball valve and push water or air through the drain line with no issues at all. I can then disassemble and clean parts between air handler and ball valve easily! *** If you do this be sure you have extra pvc pipe so in the future you can relocated your drain for new air handler. ***
We just have been having this problem where the AC drain was backing up into the ac/heating duct in the floor,We thought the new shower we put in was leaking, after spending 700 buck for someone to use some high tech equipment we discovered it was the condensate line we had that cleaned and no water in ducts.Thanks for this tip.
Good idea, I had a clogged drain line downstream, probably under house, and the garden hose was the only thing to create enough pressure to clear the clog, lots of white slime came out at the end outside. A vacuum wouldn't work, and it was not possible to snake through multiple tight turns where the clog, plus it would be nightmare if the snake broke the pipe. So water hose is great idea. Just make sure there is no way for it to backup into the furnace. I installed a permanent ball valve, and then after that downstream a water hose connection, so now I just need to turn the valve (so water doesnt back up into the furnace) connect the hose and turn it on. No need for taking anything apart. That wouldn't solve a clog in the 2 feet of pipe from furnace to ball valve, so put a simple T connector there, since a brush could easily reach that area. Also big warning, I made a huge 4K mistake of poking too hard into the drain hole where it meets the furnace, not realizing how delicate the evaporator coil inside was. There are several 1/4" aluminum tubes near the drain hole, and there flimsy, so if you break one of those, your toast, cant be repaired at least safely, and they have to replace the entire evaporator coil. So just be careful about anything going into the furnace. I had no idea, treat it like glass.
This was too freakin' easy. Thanks! In my case, the only access was a capped section of pipe that fed into a tee (one side AC, other side drainage). I didn't want to attach the hose adapter to this tee because it'd've meant I was pushing water into the AC unit too. Instead, I cut the tee out and replaced it with an unglued 90. This gave me undivided access to flush the drain line. And, man, was it satisfying to watch that stream of water flush out to the outside.
My AC unit is in the garage (I live in Florida) right next to the utility sink. I do the same thing, but without the connector. Works great! I use a short piece of garden hose with a female end on one side to connect to the utility sink faucet, and no connector on the other end, just a cut off hose. The "trap" portion of the drain has an un-glued extension (like the one in your video). I pull out the extension and just stick the hose into the drain line, turn on the faucet and let it run for a few minutes while I change the filter. I do this every month, year 'round. My unit is a heat pump and is also my heat source (when I need heat) so it is in use year 'round.
@@craigkennedy9968 I think it's a little more common than "1 in a million". Just a little.🤦🏼♂ Especially in Florida, where many (if not most) AC fan units are located in garages. And many (if not most) garages have a water source to connect to. Either a utility sink faucet or washer connections.
This is great. My AC is almost exactly configured that way. - One item I thought you were going to suggest when you were saying "one more Thing" was to attempt to vacuum out any H2O from the AC system via the drain that was exposed.
During an Annual Service, I was told that you want to make sure that you leave water in the line and not vacuum it out completely. You can vacuum out the line, but was told to put water back in the line so that it sort of works like a syphon. Your thoughts?
the pipe that supplies your shower head is a similar enough size that an adapter can be used to convert it to a garden hose size and then you can run it from there instead of having to bring a hose all the way up from outside
if you think that is difficult, wait till you try this bad advise, blow apart some fittings and flood your home. then comes the cleanup, the drain repair, the drywall repair, the painters, the floor guy .... thats when this really becomes a DIY job
Thank you for the tips. My city allows fireworks on the 4th and New years. For three years now, my neighbor has ignored my displeasure with , warnings not to continue to launch aerial fireworks and disagreement of the uses in the street at the end of our driveways. We are a residential community. I've made efforts. I guess the pictures and city council is next. This week I had another conversation with the neighbor. I outlined just a few of my concerns and described some of the issues again in more detail. His response to date tells me he will continue to do as he wishes and without concern for our comfort or property. This year I have thought to make their event unpleasant for them. Your information brings me needed extinguishing knowledge. Thank you, again. Maybe I'll sit outside with hoses, outside lights on. I've called the local police; the officer was nice but explained they can't be everywhere at once. Our city post on our website; basically not much they can do but caution firework users. I plan to go to city council for next year. I'm trying to avoid property damages and vehicle damages. It is the aerial launchers that have created real damages. Ideas are welcome if they are positive and technique oriented.
@@a1tank400 Most A/C info online says that bleach doesn't dissolve clogs nearly as well as white vinegar and if the drain is plumbed so that what you add also goes into the drain pan, bleach is more caustic to the coils than vinegar is. My A/C guy recommended 1/2 cup of white vinegar once a month.
The main thing I didn't see in this video was that if the drain was plugged, as soon as that pipe was pulled loose, all the water in the drip pan would have poured out, assuming that the plug was after the separation point. Usually, it will be.
You can connect your hose to the water heater drain valve at the bottom of the water heater next to your AC, and run hot water through the pipes. This will allow you to hold onto the pipes and turn the water on or off fast.
The hot water does kill the bacteria and algae in the pipe for sure. But I bet you that 1 out of 3 water heaters will start that damn drip, drip, drip, And I wouldn’t tell people to mess with the burning hot water or the heater they probably aren’t qualified to safely do that. But it does work really well. I tell people to put hot water , then bleach, let it sit for 20-30 minutes, then hot water again. Out of a cup
Would the water heater tank generate enough pressure to open the clog? Asking casue the heater would be sitting right next to the AC drain pipe with no elevation difference to get enough pressure. Have you done this?
I use a solution of vinegar and baking soda let that foam up a bit run three gallons of water down lines and then run my shop vac and suck the lines clear. Prevention is key to avoid clogged lines! Do this every other month or if going on vacation the day before that way no issues while away!!!
I’ve been doing this on mine for the last few years and yes the pvc piping should not be glued so as to access it periodically for maintenance. There’s no need for the pvc to be glued and if it is just cut out a section and replumb it but don’t use the glue
That's one way to do it. There is also available a kit that has a shut-off valve on it to prevent blow-back into the drip pan. This way you don't have to take everything apart. I also use the little tabs to prevent scum/slime buildup. This system has worked great for me for years now.
@@mvm932 I think he it talking about a cleaning agent tab that you drop into the line to help dissolve any buildup. SimpleAir SACF Drain Line tabs, 6 Count
Nobody I know who does hvac is gonna just stick the pvc fittings together with NO glue and primer. You’re gonna be sadly mistaken when you go to pull your pipes apart and they don’t come apart. You can add that fitting at the top of a pvc tee and use this trick but it may be a small project to do not 10 minutes.
It is common for the first two fittings near the unit to not be glued. This allows cleaning of the pan drain. I agree that I’ve never seen the pipes this accessible and all unglued!
These drains are not under any pressure, so gluing them together isn’t necessary. But more importantly, if you glue ‘em up, you can’t disconnect them for cleaning.
@shaunb.5401 Sounds like you jhust popped the top of ther PVC off and put the hose in without cutting off the supply so the water wouldnt run back to the unit.
Will need to check inside once you open the water so you avoid water running everywhere if the pipe get disconected or the water return back, just a tip.
most PVC cement will dry out over time and become unsealed. thats what makes this bad advise so bad ... when people pressurize their drain line with 35 pounds of water from a hose pipe and blow apart those fittings, flooding their homes
Something about bringing a garden hose into your house. 😂 Hi, I've been doing HVAC in South Florida for 20 years. Never once brought a garden hose into someone's home. Please just get a strong vacuum in terms of horsepower. Just suck from outside for some time. You also aren't getting the bio slime out of the drainpan nipple with this method! 😊
Just blow compressed air through the pipe, done. Drill small hole in pipe, blow air into pipe. When none, place a screw into the hole. Done...a can of air will work. The ones you use to dust keyboards etc...use whole can once per season. You can hear the air exiting into the condensation pump reservoir.
I'm in Florida. Ours is so clogged it is thick like rubber.No sucking it out! Also our pipes do not come apart, they are glued , and there is a T where the float switch comes out so if we put hose there the flow goes to the pan instead of outside pipe. Plumbers should design installation with a shut off valve to pan and his hose connection below the valve. Need to capped that hose connection when not in use somehow.
I did that technique many years ago until one time, a PVC fitting, just like the ones in this video, was not glued. It was in the wall and blew out causing a considerable amount of water damage. I also had to cut a hole in the wall to put it back together(with glue) and patch/paint. BEWARE
You need to clean MORE than the drain you need to clean the entire evaporator coils as well! yeah there's a REASON why that primary drain is clogged, okay? So plan on getting in there to find out why that pan is chock full of condensate to begin with. In fact to prevent this every year around April you should check the evaporator portion of your system (that's the part that has the main squirrel cage fan pumping out the ductwork air) its NOT the compressor side.
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful. However, after I declog the pipes, there’s still a little bit of water leaking under the HVAC UNIT leaking
I had to use compressed air because my air handler is in the hallway of the second floor (can't get a hose up there, but can get air from the air compressor in the garage). What do you use to keep it clean through out the year, Draino, bleach? I was using bleach, but it didn't work out all that great and dragging that air line through the house, along with cleaning up the mess was a pain in the rear end. You should have seen all the gunk that the compressed air forced out, it looked like a dozen cats all barfed in one spot outside.
How did you connect the compressor to the drain line, and also without it going the furnace? You could do it with a bucket of water like this guy did but need a $220 tool ruclips.net/video/bLshRVFnnh4/видео.html. I had the same gunk its called bacteria zooglia. Apparently evaporator coils used to be made of copper, now they're made of aluminum, copper has antibacterial properties whereas aluminum does not. So the water from the aluminum coil is more susceptible to create this gunk. Drano won't fix it either. Im trying to figure it out, it's a biofilm, so something that would attack that. I even heard of people putting a penny in the drain pan to create the chemical reaction necessary to prevent this white slime from developing the first place. apparently its a new phenomenon with the advent of aluminum evaporator coils
@@travis7277I live in Florida. Every 5-6 weeks I run warm water down the line and then run a cup of vinegar. Recommended by an AC tech. Best advice I’ve been given. My AC runs perfect.
You don't. the issue is the evaporator coils themselves they get gunked up with algae and shit. So prepare for a very messy job but before you do the thing with coil cleaner ascertain that there's no condensate in the pan itself. Because if there is that means that more than likely the primary drain is clogged. Most places also have a secondary pan that drains to above an entry door or window. See any drips there and you know the primary is clogged.
I MADE AN ADAPTER I HOOK MY SHOP VAC TO END OF DRAIN OUTSIDE IT CLEANS OUT ALL THE CURD YOU NEED TO DO THIS YEARLY IF YOUR UNIT IN THE ATTIC OR ONE DAY YOU'LL HAVE A WET CEILING
I’ve yet to see someone in a real world situation where the AC unit is in the attic. Most of the ones I’ve seen do there thing where the equipment they’re working on is in a nice cool environment.
Lotta residences in FL have the evaporator in the attic because they take up space elsewhere whereby that space may be needed. This is especially prevalent in smaller single family residences that may not have a garage. These are always split systems whereby the evaporator and condenser units are separate.
Many ac units are in the attic in southern Louisiana and Mississippi. No basements here because the water table is just a foot or so below the surface.
Compressed air is so much simpler. And all those pipes are almost always glued together. If you have to cut the PVC go to the hardware store, get a screw together union, and install it so the next time it’s much faster and simpler. It’s worth the $5.
I'm going to try this. I've got water coming out of the condensation PVC pipe in my garage instead of water flowing into the flower bed from the PVC condensation pipe outside.
That's trouble. Means the primary drain is clogged which means the primary pan is fulla condensate. Evaporator coils are gunked up real bad with algae & shit. Coil cleaner time.
I would first use a vacuum to see if I could unbreak the clog. There is always a possibility that the drainpipe is cracked due to freezing temperatures, or a connection in the drain line is loose. Putting in water under pressure could cause a leak or separation inside the wall, which makes a repair much more expensive.
I was a/c tech for long time. Retired now. This is ok to clean just drain line but If pan is clogged at air handler you will have to take air handler panels out and wet dry vac the pan. Also some clogs can be very hard won’t be cleared with that hose method and water pressure and require using about 150 psi with nitrogen tank. Using hose after to get it all clean after hitting with pressure might be good idea if it even reaches. Not best method imo but something may work for just a home owner not a tech.
Thats a cool little trick man! I use a small handheld wetvac with a smaller tip, have for years. If its bad I start by spraying some diluted coil cleaner down into the pan outlet, Always good to see different ways though, subbed!
Once your drain is clean/clear and working put in a small amount of diluted bleach water in once every three months and keep the drain pipes clean all year
Bleach is corrosive and creates vapors that rust out air handler That is why is is not recommended. A few drops of dish soap every few months works for me
Ouch! Our unit did not come with a shut off float switch. Many villas in out area have hat damage from ac condensation pipes overflowing and causing damage. I installed a backup switch for $15.
A float switch is about $22 now a days. You need to report these guys. I’ve installed hundreds, if not thousands of them. Very rarely do they go bad. Sorry for the info but maybe it can help someone else out
You should always fill up your p.EE trap with a little bit of water.So the a c unit doesn't have to fight for an hour to reprive itself really important
Thanks. I’m in the process of course tonight. I checked the overflow and it was full. Removed 2 cups water, ran drain brush as deep as it would go. I put a bleach in it. Checked at 11/00 pm and removed 6 cups water. Added drano and will Chex in the morning. My question is did you say water needs to be in the pipe? It was going to overflow both times. I’m lost.
Mine drains outside. Every other month I take my shop vac, squeeze the end of the suction hose over outside drain fitting, turn the vac on for 2-3 minutes, suck out the water and any gunk. Never have a issue anymore. Way too easy.
50 year HVAC tech here, I would not recommend you try this or any other RUclips preventative maintenance hack. I have kids to feed and a mortgage, so I need to come out for $550.00 to do this for you... Thanks in advance!
My husband was a HVAC tech for over 35 years and I never see him use a garden hose. Also If you get a quote of $550.00 hang up your phone and call the next company that is highway robbery. Unfortunately I lost my husband almost 2 years ago so I now take care of my own drain line myself.
I still think the best method is to use a wet vacuum. Don't get me wrong, the garden hose method works, but the wet vacuum is king on this won. All you need is a power outlet. That's why most houses built in the 2000s have outlets in the attic. Plus, you clean up all the mess afterward.
Here’s an easier solution. Take a bicycle tire pump. At the end of rubber hose on pump you have the part that you attach to the tire to pump it up, cut that piece off. Now you just have a rubber hose dangling from bike pump. Take rubber hose and shove it into the drain of hvac unit. Take bike pump and start pumping.
@@jean-phil I wasn’t talking about a $90 tire pump. I was talking about the old school style you find at yard sales for $2. But go ahead and ruin your overpriced bike pump.
I had a clog in the condensate line thst could not be cleared, kept on backing up triggering the float seitch. Condensate is not pure water, its called serum which builds up on the wall of the line. I used muriatic acid in the line for 30 minutes then flushed it out with hot water. I couldn't believe the build up in the line. I was told muriatic acid would not harm pvc, its been a year without any issues. I usually flush the lines twice a year, i uave no idea why this back up happened. Im in south Fla.
Has the unit always drained outside? If not then it is definitely blocked in the wall where it goes into the pee-trap. The average a/c unit is producing about a gallon of water per hour. It kinda sounds like the tech didn’t want to be in the heat of the attic and I can certainly understand that in August But in the early morning or in the fall, it should be addressed. I’m at work right now and would like to discuss it further. If you would like to give me a way to call you directly, I’d be happy to help you resolve it. It should be running to a vent stack. Either by a bathroom, kitchen, or laundry room. Whichever is closest generally
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for posting! I am glad to move out of the 8% and into the 92%. I realized mine has not been cleaned out in several years, miracle that anything is flowing at the moment. I look forward to checking your other postings.
Main issue with this tip is most pipes have been glued together, and can't simply be pulled apart. If you feel comfortable you could buy the parts to recreate your existing glued pipes and then use this trick.
Yep, this makes this tip useless. Came here to say this.
HVAC guy here you can do that on 1% through the t for vinager but in most you can’t cause there no reason why your drain is without glue anyway shop vac from outside plus water from inside is and will always be the way easier to imagine if is in the attic
@@nelsonmontalvo7581 I have heard shop vacuum outside, but what do you mean "plus water inside"?
@@vipermageex5861let some water 💧 run thru it then do the shop vac
So true. The tip he's giving is easier said than done. Good advice though
The most important thing that was missing is make sure that you have a shut off valve on the garden hose. Cause if the drain is plugged, it’s probably going to blow the hose connector right off the pcv. Then by the time you come back in the house it’s flooded. You have to hold pressure with your hand cause it’s going to want to kick back. Guaranteed
Your right about that these u tube channels are good about leaving important information out. Glad i have plenty of common sense 👍
Excellent point!
i was thinking the same thing when i was watching. With my luck thats exactly what would happen. Especially with PVC.
@@dini1046I was thinking maybe turn it on slowly, but by bit so not to rush and risk it blowing off
My drain line runs through my ceiling. If I flush it using this method, I worry about the pipe breaking in the middle of my ceiling.😰 There’s an Aussie tool that fits on the end of the drain pipe outside of homes and allows you to pull a vacuum using a shop vac. My problem: I can’t find the end of my drain pipe ANYWHERE.🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️ My husband and I have looked everywhere, and we can’t figure out where the builder hid it. If we try this hose method, we’ll probably find it, but at what cost??😳
Another tip is to add a clear piece of tubing in the vertical section of the drain pipe. You can easily inspect the tubing visually to see if any water has pooled indicating a blockage.
Great tip
I use vinyl tubing and it fits so tight it won’t leak without glue. All this stuff about not gluing pvc fittings is a crock. I’ve seen them leak when people forget to glue one. The only ones I don’t glue is the access tube at the top.
It’s better to vacuum from outside when you can because it sucks the fittings tighter instead of blowing them apart.
Won't be able to see through it in a matter of months.
mine has a clear P trap so easy to monitor
Mine are all glued.. I just stuck a WET rag down the inspection (top of pipe)opening past the pipe that comes from the unit with a larger diameter drinking straw along with it. Past the pipe coming from yhe unit. Blow into the straw ant you can feel when the blockage is clear when your blowing. It's just gunk in there, and it came out easy. Remove rag & straw. And then I pour a cup of WHITE VINEGAR down the pipe once a month. Article on you-tube said bleach is TOO STRONG & WILL MELT GLUED JOINTS(????).. Not sure about that, but the installation crew said bleach when it was installed 9-10 years ago. Who knows?? Your thermostat will automatically come back on if you haven't turned it off like the guy said...
That's it was easy▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎
I actually replumbed my condensate drain, I added a pvc ball valve so water could not backup into the air handler, I added a garden hose fitting and cap and I got a three way elbow so I could put another cap, this three way elbow is wide enough to drop in a little chlorine tablet (Walmart has them in the bleach isle) which dissolves right away with the water coming from the unit. The bleach kills all the mold, bacteria, biofilm, etc that clogs drains. One chlorine tab once a month and flush with the garden hose once a year and you will not have any issues.
Lots of people talking about how hard it is to do this if your pipes are glued, common people, part of being a homeowner means learning how to take care of your stuff.
You should be able to work on some pvc pipes. Keep a toolbox with pvc cutter, glue, primer, and some fittings.
It’s not hard!
I am buying the hose connectors tomorrow at Lowe's. Clearing this drain line will save a $200 service call. Thanks
OMG. this worked like a champ. I cancelled 75 dollars of pressurizing tools from Amazon. Very easy fix. Thank you so much.🤩
Glad it helped
I added a couple of things onto my drain to make life easier. 1st I glued most pvc connections. 2nd I added a "T" with a hose fitting and cap. 3rd between the air handler and and "T" I added a ball valve. The connections between ball valve and air handler are pressed together. I can close the ball valve and push water or air through the drain line with no issues at all. I can then disassemble and clean parts between air handler and ball valve easily! *** If you do this be sure you have extra pvc pipe so in the future you can relocated your drain for new air handler. ***
That is the setup that I wish I had. In the main time, keep adding vinegar. 😂
That's a very common Florida condenser situation. That includes the snap-together PVC drain and the threaded water tank connections.
We just have been having this problem where the AC drain was backing up into the ac/heating duct in the floor,We thought the new shower we put in was leaking, after spending 700 buck for someone to use some high tech equipment we discovered it was the condensate line we had that cleaned and no water in ducts.Thanks for this tip.
Good idea, I had a clogged drain line downstream, probably under house, and the garden hose was the only thing to create enough pressure to clear the clog, lots of white slime came out at the end outside. A vacuum wouldn't work, and it was not possible to snake through multiple tight turns where the clog, plus it would be nightmare if the snake broke the pipe. So water hose is great idea. Just make sure there is no way for it to backup into the furnace. I installed a permanent ball valve, and then after that downstream a water hose connection, so now I just need to turn the valve (so water doesnt back up into the furnace) connect the hose and turn it on. No need for taking anything apart. That wouldn't solve a clog in the 2 feet of pipe from furnace to ball valve, so put a simple T connector there, since a brush could easily reach that area. Also big warning, I made a huge 4K mistake of poking too hard into the drain hole where it meets the furnace, not realizing how delicate the evaporator coil inside was. There are several 1/4" aluminum tubes near the drain hole, and there flimsy, so if you break one of those, your toast, cant be repaired at least safely, and they have to replace the entire evaporator coil. So just be careful about anything going into the furnace. I had no idea, treat it like glass.
Great video! After flushing the pipes, add some vinegar to kill bacteria and submerge the ones removed into vinegar too. Thanks!
Bleach works very well too.
This was too freakin' easy. Thanks! In my case, the only access was a capped section of pipe that fed into a tee (one side AC, other side drainage). I didn't want to attach the hose adapter to this tee because it'd've meant I was pushing water into the AC unit too. Instead, I cut the tee out and replaced it with an unglued 90. This gave me undivided access to flush the drain line. And, man, was it satisfying to watch that stream of water flush out to the outside.
it is the best feeling, its strange yet satisfying
Its not that easy all the fittings are glued or should be.
My AC unit is in the garage (I live in Florida) right next to the utility sink. I do the same thing, but without the connector. Works great!
I use a short piece of garden hose with a female end on one side to connect to the utility sink faucet, and no connector on the other end, just a cut off hose. The "trap" portion of the drain has an un-glued extension (like the one in your video). I pull out the extension and just stick the hose into the drain line, turn on the faucet and let it run for a few minutes while I change the filter.
I do this every month, year 'round. My unit is a heat pump and is also my heat source (when I need heat) so it is in use year 'round.
your situation is the one in a million that can safely do this , for most everyone else ... they will blow apart fittings and flood their home
@@craigkennedy9968 I think it's a little more common than "1 in a million". Just a little.🤦🏼♂
Especially in Florida, where many (if not most) AC fan units are located in garages. And many (if not most) garages have a water source to connect to. Either a utility sink faucet or washer connections.
Loved the part @ 4:46, when you "put a wrench on it" & "get it nice 'n snug". Loved that footage with the wrench! Wildly helpful! 😡🏃♂🏃♂🏃♂🏃♂🍋
Glad you enjoyed it
This is great. My AC is almost exactly configured that way. - One item I thought you were going to suggest when you were saying "one more Thing" was to attempt to vacuum out any H2O from the AC system via the drain that was exposed.
During an Annual Service, I was told that you want to make sure that you leave water in the line and not vacuum it out completely. You can vacuum out the line, but was told to put water back in the line so that it sort of works like a syphon. Your thoughts?
No to mention in the South USA sometimes the HVAC is in the attic. Getting garden hose up there is difficult.
Okay then it is not for you
the pipe that supplies your shower head is a similar enough size that an adapter can be used to convert it to a garden hose size and then you can run it from there instead of having to bring a hose all the way up from outside
if you think that is difficult, wait till you try this bad advise, blow apart some fittings and flood your home. then comes the cleanup, the drain repair, the drywall repair, the painters, the floor guy .... thats when this really becomes a DIY job
Thank you for the tips. My city allows fireworks on the 4th and New years. For three years now, my neighbor has ignored my displeasure with , warnings not to continue to launch aerial fireworks and disagreement of the uses in the street at the end of our driveways. We are a residential community. I've made efforts. I guess the pictures and city council is next. This week I had another conversation with the neighbor. I outlined just a few of my concerns and described some of the issues again in more detail. His response to date tells me he will continue to do as he wishes and without concern for our comfort or property. This year I have thought to make their event unpleasant for them. Your information brings me needed extinguishing knowledge. Thank you, again. Maybe I'll sit outside with hoses, outside lights on. I've called the local police; the officer was nice but explained they can't be everywhere at once. Our city post on our website; basically not much they can do but caution firework users. I plan to go to city council for next year. I'm trying to avoid property damages and vehicle damages. It is the aerial launchers that have created real damages. Ideas are welcome if they are positive and technique oriented.
Just spent $100 to a/c guys for this and two days with no a/c in arizona 110○ no more . Thanks for the tips 🙏🏾
glad i could help
Good vid. I add a cup of white vinegar once a month, keeps it clear and clean.
How about adding bleach?
@@a1tank400 Most A/C info online says that bleach doesn't dissolve clogs nearly as well as white vinegar and if the drain is plumbed so that what you add also goes into the drain pan, bleach is more caustic to the coils than vinegar is. My A/C guy recommended 1/2 cup of white vinegar once a month.
Yes! A cup of white vinegar, followed by a few cups of hot water is what I use once a month and it keeps the AC drain line clean.
The main thing I didn't see in this video was that if the drain was plugged, as soon as that pipe was pulled loose, all the water in the drip pan would have poured out, assuming that the plug was after the separation point. Usually, it will be.
You can connect your hose to the water heater drain valve at the bottom of the water heater next to your AC, and run hot water through the pipes. This will allow you to hold onto the pipes and turn the water on or off fast.
The hot water does kill the bacteria and algae in the pipe for sure. But I bet you that 1 out of 3 water heaters will start that damn drip, drip, drip, And I wouldn’t tell people to mess with the burning hot water or the heater they probably aren’t qualified to safely do that. But it does work really well. I tell people to put hot water , then bleach, let it sit for 20-30 minutes, then hot water again. Out of a cup
Would the water heater tank generate enough pressure to open the clog? Asking casue the heater would be sitting right next to the AC drain pipe with no elevation difference to get enough pressure. Have you done this?
@@zahidkm Yes and hot water will clean better than cold water.
Smart
I use a solution of vinegar and baking soda let that foam up a bit run three gallons of water down lines and then run my shop vac and suck the lines clear. Prevention is key to avoid clogged lines! Do this every other month or if going on vacation the day before that way no issues while away!!!
This is legit good advice.
thanks
This only works of you have a water hose near your indoor unit. Around here the inside unit is in the attic or in the basement.
I’ve been doing this on mine for the last few years and yes the pvc piping should not be glued so as to access it periodically for maintenance. There’s no need for the pvc to be glued and if it is just cut out a section and replumb it but don’t use the glue
I just hook a wet vac to the outside pipe and let it run for a few minutes. Sucks all the gunk out of the pipe including the pan.
My units are in the attic so good idea to go in the attic and pour some bleach in the drain line after that.
@@crand20033 I have heard to use white vinegar instead as bleach/chlorine can damage the PVC drain line.
@@andrewpolasek5524 Won't hurt the drain line, but the chlorine fumes can corrode the coils in the air handler.
What if you dont get anything from vacuuming out the drain line?
@@user-vr8mv1ci6dif it’s not flowing you might need a bigger vacuum.
That's one way to do it. There is also available a kit that has a shut-off valve on it to prevent blow-back into the drip pan. This way you don't have to take everything apart. I also use the little tabs to prevent scum/slime buildup. This system has worked great for me for years now.
What do you mean little tabs? Thanks.
Can you please send link for the kit you mention and what tabs did you mean ?
@@DAT-TEXAS-DUDEsee my reply
@@mvm932 I think he it talking about a cleaning agent tab that you drop into the line to help dissolve any buildup. SimpleAir SACF Drain Line tabs, 6 Count
Nobody I know who does hvac is gonna just stick the pvc fittings together with NO glue and primer. You’re gonna be sadly mistaken when you go to pull your pipes apart and they don’t come apart. You can add that fitting at the top of a pvc tee and use this trick but it may be a small project to do not 10 minutes.
It is common for the first two fittings near the unit to not be glued. This allows cleaning of the pan drain. I agree that I’ve never seen the pipes this accessible and all unglued!
These drains are not under any pressure, so gluing them together isn’t necessary. But more importantly, if you glue ‘em up, you can’t disconnect them for cleaning.
@shaunb.5401 Sounds like you jhust popped the top of ther PVC off and put the hose in without cutting off the supply so the water wouldnt run back to the unit.
Will need to check inside once you open the water so you avoid water running everywhere if the pipe get disconected or the water return back, just a tip.
It's a drain, it doesn't need glue!
I researched this extensively - it's actually 91.5% - you're rounding up for the views, my man...
thanks for the research, as long as it helped
Great idea but I'm pretty sure everyone's PVC are glued together.
No certified AC technician will ever glue the AC drain pvc pipe.
Not likely. They don't need to be glued since they aren't under pressure, and having to unclog drains on the AC unit is pretty common.
most PVC cement will dry out over time and become unsealed. thats what makes this bad advise so bad ... when people pressurize their drain line with 35 pounds of water from a hose pipe and blow apart those fittings, flooding their homes
Wow this is the best and shortest video I've seen. You make it look so easy and I am going to do it today. THANK YOU!
you are welcome
Something about bringing a garden hose into your house. 😂 Hi, I've been doing HVAC in South Florida for 20 years. Never once brought a garden hose into someone's home. Please just get a strong vacuum in terms of horsepower. Just suck from outside for some time. You also aren't getting the bio slime out of the drainpan nipple with this method! 😊
I use a shopvac on the outside pipe and vacuum the pipes. That removes the residue from the entire pipeline. Do this once every 2 to 3 months
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Just blow compressed air through the pipe, done. Drill small hole in pipe, blow air into pipe. When none, place a screw into the hole. Done...a can of air will work. The ones you use to dust keyboards etc...use whole can once per season. You can hear the air exiting into the condensation pump reservoir.
Why wouldn't this just blow air and gunk back into the inside unit? you need something to prevent the air from going backward.
Run a cup of bleach or vinegar with a quart of water through float housing monthly during A/C season to keep algae from building up.
Rain frogs and lizards like to get into the condensate drain outside, too.
that could be a real pain if the evaporator is in the attic where its about 9 zillion degrees.
I put a shutoff and a schrader valve on mine. Shutoff the pipe to the air handler, then hit it with 90PSI and watch the slime fly across the yard.
I'm in Florida. Ours is so clogged it is thick like rubber.No sucking it out! Also our pipes do not come apart, they are glued , and there is a T where the float switch comes out so if we put hose there the flow goes to the pan instead of outside pipe. Plumbers should design installation with a shut off valve to pan and his hose connection below the valve. Need to capped that hose connection when not in use somehow.
I have slip on hose connectors and I always use a bike foot pump to force air through and it works in seconds.
I love videos like this simple and plain.
Thanks.
I did that technique many years ago until one time, a PVC fitting, just like the ones in this video, was not glued. It was in the wall and blew out causing a considerable amount of water damage. I also had to cut a hole in the wall to put it back together(with glue) and patch/paint. BEWARE
Hey I’ve been told ( and doing it the past few years) that pouring a lil bleach down the line keeps it clear
My overflow pan drain is the only line that drains outside of my house. The condensation drains into my home drainage.
I use a hose all the time, connected to HWH or laundry sink, 2 ACs
Simple and easy. Many thanks!
You need to clean MORE than the drain you need to clean the entire evaporator coils as well! yeah there's a REASON why that primary drain is clogged, okay? So plan on getting in there to find out why that pan is chock full of condensate to begin with. In fact to prevent this every year around April you should check the evaporator portion of your system (that's the part that has the main squirrel cage fan pumping out the ductwork air) its NOT the compressor side.
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful. However, after I declog the pipes, there’s still a little bit of water leaking under the HVAC UNIT leaking
I had to use compressed air because my air handler is in the hallway of the second floor (can't get a hose up there, but can get air from the air compressor in the garage). What do you use to keep it clean through out the year, Draino, bleach? I was using bleach, but it didn't work out all that great and dragging that air line through the house, along with cleaning up the mess was a pain in the rear end. You should have seen all the gunk that the compressed air forced out, it looked like a dozen cats all barfed in one spot outside.
How did you connect the compressor to the drain line, and also without it going the furnace? You could do it with a bucket of water like this guy did but need a $220 tool ruclips.net/video/bLshRVFnnh4/видео.html. I had the same gunk its called bacteria zooglia. Apparently evaporator coils used to be made of copper, now they're made of aluminum, copper has antibacterial properties whereas aluminum does not. So the water from the aluminum coil is more susceptible to create this gunk. Drano won't fix it either. Im trying to figure it out, it's a biofilm, so something that would attack that. I even heard of people putting a penny in the drain pan to create the chemical reaction necessary to prevent this white slime from developing the first place. apparently its a new phenomenon with the advent of aluminum evaporator coils
@@travis7277I live in Florida. Every 5-6 weeks I run warm water down the line and then run a cup of vinegar. Recommended by an AC tech. Best advice I’ve been given. My AC runs perfect.
You don't. the issue is the evaporator coils themselves they get gunked up with algae and shit. So prepare for a very messy job but before you do the thing with coil cleaner ascertain that there's no condensate in the pan itself. Because if there is that means that more than likely the primary drain is clogged. Most places also have a secondary pan that drains to above an entry door or window. See any drips there and you know the primary is clogged.
@@travis7277 Bacterial Zoogloea - ruclips.net/video/5VOffWjmWkk/видео.html
Bumboclaat, dis look easy but very effective. Give thanks mi G.
@3:05 a lizard was shot out of the drain in the water
Good and clear explanation of what to do. Thank you sir!!!
I MADE AN ADAPTER I HOOK MY SHOP VAC TO END OF DRAIN OUTSIDE IT CLEANS OUT ALL THE CURD YOU NEED TO DO THIS YEARLY IF YOUR UNIT IN THE ATTIC OR ONE DAY YOU'LL HAVE A WET CEILING
great job, never knew the flush attachment exists, thank you
you are welcome
I’ve yet to see someone in a real world situation where the AC unit is in the attic. Most of the ones I’ve seen do there thing where the equipment they’re working on is in a nice cool environment.
Lotta residences in FL have the evaporator in the attic because they take up space elsewhere whereby that space may be needed. This is especially prevalent in smaller single family residences that may not have a garage. These are always split systems whereby the evaporator and condenser units are separate.
Many ac units are in the attic in southern Louisiana and Mississippi. No basements here because the water table is just a foot or so below the surface.
Compressed air is so much simpler. And all those pipes are almost always glued together.
If you have to cut the PVC go to the hardware store, get a screw together union, and install it so the next time it’s much faster and simpler. It’s worth the $5.
Thanks for your help. Had some issues with my ac before
Wish I'd seen this last Friday.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge…I like what I see and most likely that is what I am going to do…
I'm going to try this. I've got water coming out of the condensation PVC pipe in my garage instead of water flowing into the flower bed from the PVC condensation pipe outside.
Did it work?
That's trouble. Means the primary drain is clogged which means the primary pan is fulla condensate. Evaporator coils are gunked up real bad with algae & shit. Coil cleaner time.
Great thanks got that problem with my ac unit now I know how to fix it
I'm pretty sure you had a lizard stuck in that drain pipe. @ 3:00 minute mark you can see the lizard run out on the ground.
Wow, i slowed it down and definitely a Lizard came out. Nice catch
Yes sir ! You have a good eye , I put the video on slow motion and saw the lizard 🦎 flush out
lol. would not be the first time. i am surprised it was only one
I would first use a vacuum to see if I could unbreak the clog. There is always a possibility that the drainpipe is cracked due to freezing temperatures, or a connection in the drain line is loose. Putting in water under pressure could cause a leak or separation inside the wall, which makes a repair much more expensive.
I was a/c tech for long time. Retired now. This is ok to clean just drain line but If pan is clogged at air handler you will have to take air handler panels out and wet dry vac the pan. Also some clogs can be very hard won’t be cleared with that hose method and water pressure and require using about 150 psi with nitrogen tank. Using hose after to get it all clean after hitting with pressure might be good idea if it even reaches. Not best method imo but something may work for just a home owner not a tech.
@3:03 a lizard comes out of the pipe and runs over to the leaves. I watched it a few times in slow motion. Very funny.
damn lizards lol
Thats a cool little trick man!
I use a small handheld wetvac with a smaller tip, have for years. If its bad I start by spraying some diluted coil cleaner down into the pan outlet, Always good to see different ways though, subbed!
Outstanding Tip ! Worked perfectly for me!
I did something similar with a shop vac, switching it up to force air through the pipes.
Once your drain is clean/clear and working put in a small amount of diluted bleach water in once every three months and keep the drain pipes clean all year
Bleach is corrosive and creates vapors that rust out air handler
That is why is is not recommended. A few drops of dish soap every few months works for me
I just spent $1100 yesterday and had a bad "AC float switch" that THEY SAID was $400!!!!! Wish I found this video earlier!
Sorry to hear.
Ouch! Our unit did not come with a shut off float switch. Many villas in out area have hat damage from ac condensation pipes overflowing and causing damage. I installed a backup switch for $15.
A float switch is about $22 now a days. You need to report these guys. I’ve installed hundreds, if not thousands of them. Very rarely do they go bad. Sorry for the info but maybe it can help someone else out
Thanks for the information bud..
You should always fill up your p.EE trap with a little bit of water.So the a c unit doesn't have to fight for an hour to reprive itself really important
Thanks Brother....man, was a quick fix and saved me money!!!!
welcome
Hello. Thank you for the information about the air conditioner
Thanks always thinking about pipes on the outside
Fabulous video!
It worked for me. Thank you so much!
Thanks. I learned something new. Right now I have a leak in my apartment sized AC. Is there something different I need to do? Really great video.
Excellent tips! 👍
Thanks. I’m in the process of course tonight. I checked the overflow and it was full. Removed 2 cups water, ran drain brush as deep as it would go. I put a bleach in it. Checked at 11/00 pm and removed 6 cups water. Added drano and will Chex in the morning. My question is did you say water needs to be in the pipe? It was going to overflow both times. I’m lost.
water should be in the pipe but it should be flowing
I have a valve to isolate downstream from AH, and use an air compressor nipple attached to the pipe. turn on compressor...all clean
Good ol DEAn DEAner-ing it
Mine drains outside. Every other month I take my shop vac, squeeze the end of the suction hose over outside drain fitting, turn the vac on for 2-3 minutes, suck out the water and any gunk. Never have a issue anymore. Way too easy.
Thank you my friend! You are great!
50 year HVAC tech here, I would not recommend you try this or any other RUclips preventative maintenance hack. I have kids to feed and a mortgage, so I need to come out for $550.00 to do this for you... Thanks in advance!
lol, you should say how this doesn’t work and how you’re willing to come to your house, for a nominal fee, to get this done properly
$550.00? I thought you might say what every AC guy says ( YOU NEED A NEW SYSTEM BUDDY THAT WILL BE 10 Grand)
My husband was a HVAC tech for over 35 years and I never see him use a garden hose. Also If you get a quote of $550.00 hang up your phone and call the next company that is highway robbery. Unfortunately I lost my husband almost 2 years ago so I now take care of my own drain line myself.
I’ll do it for only $500.
My condolences to you. 🙏 that our Heavenly Father give you strength & blessings to you & your entire family.
I still think the best method is to use a wet vacuum. Don't get me wrong, the garden hose method works, but the wet vacuum is king on this won. All you need is a power outlet. That's why most houses built in the 2000s have outlets in the attic. Plus, you clean up all the mess afterward.
was using pressure air but this way is much better.
Thanks for yr video if yr unit has a filter it also should be cleaned out to help the unit to perform better
Not a bad idea, but I'd rather take my wet/dry vac outside and suck the clog out. Avoids any chance of creating a mess inside.
Here’s an easier solution. Take a bicycle tire pump. At the end of rubber hose on pump you have the part that you attach to the tire to pump it up, cut that piece off. Now you just have a rubber hose dangling from bike pump. Take rubber hose and shove it into the drain of hvac unit. Take bike pump and start pumping.
hmm let me think .. let's scrap my 90$ topeak bike tire pump or buy a stanley shopvac for 60$ which can be used for so many things
@@jean-phil I wasn’t talking about a $90 tire pump. I was talking about the old school style you find at yard sales for $2. But go ahead and ruin your overpriced bike pump.
Will inserting a shop vac hose into the T to blow out the drain also blow air into the AC unit? If so is that a problem?
I vacuum the line once a month it takes a big 5-10 minutes. I also a white vinegar in the line inside the house..... never had a problem yet
you are the perfect client. This is what i tell everyone to do. you sir will have your AC forever
The float is removable take it out and clean it. It usually just twist and and come out.
I had a clog in the condensate line thst could not be cleared, kept on backing up triggering the float seitch. Condensate is not pure water, its called serum which builds up on the wall of the line. I used muriatic acid in the line for 30 minutes then flushed it out with hot water. I couldn't believe the build up in the line. I was told muriatic acid would not harm pvc, its been a year without any issues. I usually flush the lines twice a year, i uave no idea why this back up happened. Im in south Fla.
hvac wanted to charge me $100 to do this . i took my hose and cleared mine that wasnt even dirty for free. i clean it yearly
Great advice, thanks a bunch!
Glad it was helpful!
Has the unit always drained outside? If not then it is definitely blocked in the wall where it goes into the pee-trap. The average a/c unit is producing about a gallon of water per hour. It kinda sounds like the tech didn’t want to be in the heat of the attic and I can certainly understand that in August But in the early morning or in the fall, it should be addressed. I’m at work right now and would like to discuss it further. If you would like to give me a way to call you directly, I’d be happy to help you resolve it. It should be running to a vent stack. Either by a bathroom, kitchen, or laundry room. Whichever is closest generally
How come your pvc pipes/connectors were not glued together, and could be disassembled quickly?
somtimes they are but in those cases i cut the pvc and just put it back together with a coupling
@@DeaninItYourself That will work. Thanks much.
This is a great way to possibly blow your line apart, if you’re line runs between floors and walls you’re going to have a mess if they come apart.
maybe, but i think not
@@DeaninItYourself happens in older houses all the time.
I use a portable air can and a "blow gun" with an extended nozzle. Just pack some rags around the nozzle and give it a squeeze. Takes seconds