This more than helped me with an issue where I could diy. I live in an apartment and my line was clogged, I managed to fix it myself without needing maintenance come in randomly to fix it. Much love
I really liked your video on where condensation can occur. Thank you for showing RectorSeal's Safe-T-Switch SS2 on your system. Adding EZ-Trap EZT-113B would also provide transparent trap providing quick visual if clog exists in the trap (along with brush to clean it), access to add drain pan tablets in your AC Coil, and all in one packaging so you don't have to find all the PVC fittings for any single job.
hey you guys did a great job on this presentation. thnk you. and please if possible relay this message to the little man on the left, he did a fantastic job.
Would be nice to have the link to that valve. Also, is there any danger in blowing it out from the attic versus sucking it out on the other end? I was also puzzled why you have to use nitrogen and not just an air compressor or air tank?
Ours is in our basement and has leaked and got our basement wet over 5 times. They can’t figure it out. The water collects in the bottom of the furnace. The drain is clear and works. The keep blaming something different every time. They had to tear drywall out and replace all the carpets. It’s still not fixed.
Assumption #1: you have an upflow furnace/air handler Assumption #2: your p-trap is dry Assumption #3; the end of the discharge line is open to the air (might be other reasons the p-trap is dry) Result: air is being sucked back up the discharge line with enough strength to overwhelm the evaporator pan's weak little attempt to discharge. Thus, the pan is filling up and overflowing into the furnace. Solution: run the A/C and close the end of the discharge line (prevent air from enterring) until the p-trap fills up.
I think you have no idea what youre talking about. if you dont have a condensate pump than a trap is needed. If you dont have a condensate trap than either the cooled air is blown out (overpressure) OR the water cant run because you are sucking warm air into the system (underpressure).
Why would there be what appears to be condensation on the entire inside unit? Literally from the floor to ceiling. Every square inch of every component. Even forming on the inside of the closet door.
We're having a similar issue. Just bought a brand new central unit, but the condenser is in our attic so it's on its side. There's water dripping from all over the unit, especially outside the drain pan and into the ceiling sheetrock. It's crazy. I don't get how it's supposed to work, but this ain't it. Lol
American Standard unit 16 seer was installed less than 2 yrs ago. Drainage line is clear and filter is replaced monthly. Water drips inside coming from the coils (center and both sides) when the unit shuts off. It does not drip while the unit is running. AC tech told us that while units runs, the fan blows the condensation water into the pan, but once it shuts off, the water drips. He also mentioned that spraying Windex on the coils would help (it didn't) and replacing coils may or may not eliminate the water from dripping. Does anybody have any suggestions how to solve this problem?
At 5:50 Safety switch "you will have to have somebody come out and reset it". Why can't the home owner clear the clog? How does the switch get "Reset"? If there is something in the unit that has to be "Reset" please let us know.
Safety switch is a water protection device. If the primary is clogged, water backs into safety. Causing the system to kill t stat or disabled cooling. When the water clears safety switch, system s restored
@@bkvike Grow up yourself then too? Seems weird to get butt hurt over a joke then push one out yourself. Might need some mental help over there- best wishes!
A professional will also clean out the condensate tray and add a handful of algaecide pellets to it, which will limit any future buildup of algae as they break down in the water.
Hello,have a system similar to this in my house closet. My question is I can see outside light coming in from the top,is this normal? Does there need to be a way for the furnace to air out? Or does this need to be closed up on my roof? Thank you
Why isn't the drain line hooked up to the AC Equipoment with a coupling, so the line can be removed, cleaned & replaced. Hard line installation, makes that impossible...
I have an issue with my Trane air handler, the evaporator drips down into the Plenum instead of dripping down into the drain channel. The evaporator is clean and the channels are clean. I’m actually watched the condensation just rip straight down and I can’t be the only one that’s experienced this. I am not a AC tech but I am an automotive technician so I understand the basics of a home HVAC system. The duct temperature is around 53°. If you have any input that would be great.
You may have to replace the plenum -as I've had to do. If not, the long-term wet environment will cause mold to blow throughout the house, which is a health hazard! From what you describe, the duct itself may be cold and cause water to condense there instead or in addition to the coils above the drain pan. Nowadays, the plenum and duct designs are designed to mitigate cold spots and achieve easier air flow, but if it's an old house with old ducts, that may be the issue, rather than the air handler. Hope this helps! (note: I did not do this work myself, but hired it out ... think it was about $800, but that place was crazy hard to get to.)
Our furnace is linking water underneath. The air conditioner man came out. He told us that we needed a water pump. He told us. Instead of letting water run down the pipe. Like it was doing. He will connect the pipe fm furnace. Run pipe outside the furnace. Run it into the bathroom. So it can be drained into our toilet. I do not lk that idea. Will this mess up my plumping? Thanks
I don't have a drain line outside my home. The pvc runs directly off my furnace to the sump pump near it. So I'm not sure if all I need to do is just clearing this line?
I have a brand new house, new AC/Furnace and the one in the attic is leaking water onto the AC filter daily. I am not sure if it is coming off the copper pipe that has a black insulation on it or if it is leaking from somewhere else inside the Furnace. When we bought the house we were in before this one, we had the same type issue when we moved in brand new and they had forgotten to put some type of valve on the system outside and the pipes would sweat so much it would get on the ceiling in our bedroom below the attic. I just want to make sure they fix what the issue is? Thanks for any advice. By the way I change my ac filters every month even though they are not dirty.
@@joedixon8804 No clogs already addressed that with a blow out and I have a safety shutoff switch. The HVAC Guys came back and replaced the coil and it has stopped leaking! I did read where some of these leak or drip and there is a pan the TRANE manufacturer can send that catches the drips, but it's harder to install than the coil so since it was under warranty they just replaced the coil. So far no leaks or drips.
Hi .. anyone can discuss to me if you have any idea regarding the split duct AC which is running but still there is no enough cooling coming out. We did checked the piping and coil and it is cooling. only the problem is the indoor unit blows not enough cold. we can feel just like fan only. thanks..
@@scooterp7009 It work but the pressure go up and down. I was using 12 oz. cans from Walmart. There is not enough pressure to force 134 into a 410 system. I vacuum all of it out and put only 410a. A fan saw my video and sold me a new tank of 410a.
thank you! I used a shop vac as a blower with a funnel looking type attachment and blew it out. it worked!
Really great job sticking with the script fellas, sounds super natural. Hehe
This more than helped me with an issue where I could diy. I live in an apartment and my line was clogged, I managed to fix it myself without needing maintenance come in randomly to fix it. Much love
I really liked your video on where condensation can occur. Thank you for showing RectorSeal's Safe-T-Switch SS2 on your system. Adding EZ-Trap EZT-113B would also provide transparent trap providing quick visual if clog exists in the trap (along with brush to clean it), access to add drain pan tablets in your AC Coil, and all in one packaging so you don't have to find all the PVC fittings for any single job.
hey you guys did a great job on this presentation. thnk you. and please if possible relay this message to the little man on the left, he did a fantastic job.
Excellent explanation/ presentation.
Excellent, helpful video.
Would be nice to have the link to that valve. Also, is there any danger in blowing it out from the attic versus sucking it out on the other end? I was also puzzled why you have to use nitrogen and not just an air compressor or air tank?
Very informative and helpful!
Great information
Thank you guys this is a lifetime saver ❤😊
Ours is in our basement and has leaked and got our basement wet over 5 times. They can’t figure it out. The water collects in the bottom of the furnace. The drain is clear and works. The keep blaming something different every time. They had to tear drywall out and replace all the carpets. It’s still not fixed.
Assumption #1: you have an upflow furnace/air handler
Assumption #2: your p-trap is dry
Assumption #3; the end of the discharge line is open to the air (might be other reasons the p-trap is dry)
Result: air is being sucked back up the discharge line with enough strength to overwhelm the evaporator pan's weak little attempt to discharge. Thus, the pan is filling up and overflowing into the furnace.
Solution: run the A/C and close the end of the discharge line (prevent air from enterring) until the p-trap fills up.
Could also be a cracked or corroded pan. If that’s leaking , drain won’t work. Then leaks on floor, going everywhere.
Thank you,and very detailed explanation.
great video and super educational and clear explanations... VERY impressive
Thank you. Very helpful.
Thanks a lot, this is very helpful
Great job!
best video on this topic thank you!
The P-trap on the drain line is your biggest weakness all traps eventually clog it is not required and it says in the instructions " do not trap" .
I think you have no idea what youre talking about. if you dont have a condensate pump than a trap is needed. If you dont have a condensate trap than either the cooled air is blown out (overpressure) OR the water cant run because you are sucking warm air into the system (underpressure).
@@niklas3963
Oh my, I think that I have both 😱 plus water on the floor!
Good information 👍
Thanks for the great advic
Low refrigerant charge can cause coul to ice and water dripping from A coil
Why would there be what appears to be condensation on the entire inside unit? Literally from the floor to ceiling. Every square inch of every component. Even forming on the inside of the closet door.
We're having a similar issue. Just bought a brand new central unit, but the condenser is in our attic so it's on its side. There's water dripping from all over the unit, especially outside the drain pan and into the ceiling sheetrock. It's crazy. I don't get how it's supposed to work, but this ain't it. Lol
American Standard unit 16 seer was installed less than 2 yrs ago. Drainage line is clear and filter is replaced monthly. Water drips inside coming from the coils (center and both sides) when the unit shuts off. It does not drip while the unit is running. AC tech told us that while units runs, the fan blows the condensation water into the pan, but once it shuts off, the water drips. He also mentioned that spraying Windex on the coils would help (it didn't) and replacing coils may or may not eliminate the water from dripping. Does anybody have any suggestions how to solve this problem?
Currently going through this myself with no solution so far. 😢
At 5:50 Safety switch "you will have to have somebody come out and reset it". Why can't the home owner clear the clog? How does the switch get "Reset"? If there is something in the unit that has to be "Reset" please let us know.
Safety switch is a water protection device. If the primary is clogged, water backs into safety. Causing the system to kill t stat or disabled cooling. When the water clears safety switch, system s restored
Thanks
Why is a P-trap needed on that drain pipe?
My condensation drip line is behind my stack washer and dryer. It is not accessable. Any tips on how to deal with that?
Dude continually looking at the camera stresses me out.
Grow up, they both did a nice job. Guys named Jimm with 2 m's stress me out.
I just looked & laughed
It's a normal human behavior
@@bkvike Grow up yourself then too? Seems weird to get butt hurt over a joke then push one out yourself. Might need some mental help over there- best wishes!
The men are addressing people who are viewing their video. A normal person would look towards the camera.
Thanks for the video =)
Haha dude in the left really seeking that affirmation after every line, but he stares deep into the potential of the unknown.
Not a professional but shouldn't you blow out the tube in one direction? Do you want to blow the gunk back into the tray where it can reclog?
A professional will also clean out the condensate tray and add a handful of algaecide pellets to it, which will limit any future buildup of algae as they break down in the water.
Hello,have a system similar to this in my house closet. My question is I can see outside light coming in from the top,is this normal? Does there need to be a way for the furnace to air out? Or does this need to be closed up on my roof? Thank you
Why isn't the drain line hooked up to the AC Equipoment with a coupling, so the line can be removed, cleaned & replaced. Hard line installation, makes that impossible...
I have an issue with my Trane air handler, the evaporator drips down into the Plenum instead of dripping down into the drain channel. The evaporator is clean and the channels are clean. I’m actually watched the condensation just rip straight down and I can’t be the only one that’s experienced this. I am not a AC tech but I am an automotive technician so I understand the basics of a home HVAC system. The duct temperature is around 53°. If you have any input that would be great.
You may have to replace the plenum -as I've had to do. If not, the long-term wet environment will cause mold to blow throughout the house, which is a health hazard! From what you describe, the duct itself may be cold and cause water to condense there instead or in addition to the coils above the drain pan. Nowadays, the plenum and duct designs are designed to mitigate cold spots and achieve easier air flow, but if it's an old house with old ducts, that may be the issue, rather than the air handler. Hope this helps! (note: I did not do this work myself, but hired it out ... think it was about $800, but that place was crazy hard to get to.)
Drain pan could be cracked. Trane air handlers are known for that
Our furnace is linking water underneath. The air conditioner man came out. He told us that we needed a water pump. He told us. Instead of letting water run down the pipe. Like it was doing. He will connect the pipe fm furnace. Run pipe outside the furnace. Run it into the bathroom. So it can be drained into our toilet. I do not lk that idea. Will this mess up my plumping? Thanks
I don't have a drain line outside my home. The pvc runs directly off my furnace to the sump pump near it. So I'm not sure if all I need to do is just clearing this line?
This is why you don't watch the professional per say, aways selling themselves. Make it seems like a home owner can do it themselves.
I have a brand new house, new AC/Furnace and the one in the attic is leaking water onto the AC filter daily. I am not sure if it is coming off the copper pipe that has a black insulation on it or if it is leaking from somewhere else inside the Furnace. When we bought the house we were in before this one, we had the same type issue when we moved in brand new and they had forgotten to put some type of valve on the system outside and the pipes would sweat so much it would get on the ceiling in our bedroom below the attic. I just want to make sure they fix what the issue is? Thanks for any advice. By the way I change my ac filters every month even though they are not dirty.
Need to make sure u have a safety switch on secondary. Also check to see if drain is clogged
@@joedixon8804 No clogs already addressed that with a blow out and I have a safety shutoff switch. The HVAC Guys came back and replaced the coil and it has stopped leaking! I did read where some of these leak or drip and there is a pan the TRANE manufacturer can send that catches the drips, but it's harder to install than the coil so since it was under warranty they just replaced the coil. So far no leaks or drips.
I have a lot of water coming out of my house. Coils are not freezing up and clean. Why so much is coming out ?
Shorty is tweaking out lmao
As I remove the cover. He says it could be frozen… there’s a block of ice here !!
Good sh*t guys. Thanks
Why is there a little water coming out my primary drain when I am using the heat and not the ac?
If u have 90 plus furnace, it condensates from flue. Exits thru a collector cup and drains. Won't condensate as heavy as ac would
Hi .. anyone can discuss to me if you have any idea regarding the split duct AC which is running but still there is no enough cooling coming out. We did checked the piping and coil and it is cooling. only the problem is the indoor unit blows not enough cold. we can feel just like fan only. thanks..
Why nitrogen? Compressed air is a lot cheaper.
What will happen to my 410a system if I add r134?
Doesn’t sound like a good idea.
@@scooterp7009 It work but the pressure go up and down. I was using 12 oz. cans from Walmart. There is not enough pressure to force 134 into a 410 system. I vacuum all of it out and put only 410a. A fan saw my video and sold me a new tank of 410a.
Bad for your compressor. Replace condenser
Compressor ran fine for 5 months@@joedixon8804
Show practically
Stop listening tham, better way to buy new air-conditionin every year, nonsense