I Should’ve Known BETTER…| HVAC Install
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- Опубликовано: 29 дек 2021
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I'm back at the Murfreesboro Project to connect the refrigerant lines, drain line, low voltage, and high voltage on Trane air handler in the attic. Hope you enjoy the video, LET'S DO SOME WORK!!
#skilledtrades #hvacinstall #remodel 
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I didn’t convert the coil properly, I need to go back and flip the u-bend troughs. Thx Ted Cook for pointing that out to me.
Love your channel, and love Ted Cook’s channel as well. The true heroes of HVAC media, and the trade as a whole!
U-bend through?
Those water diverting brackets surprisingly make a big difference
@@emmanuelalvarez4204 I believe he is referring to the two water diverting brackets he forgot to switch.
Looking at the front side of the coil there is a water diverter fastened to the coils left side tube sheet by three screws. It needs to be removed and reinstalled on the coils right side tube sheet. Make sure it is reinstalled into the upper most hole of the coils right tube sheet and then the other two screws will line up. Now flip the coil around to the back side and remove the diverter bracket located on the right side coil tube sheet. Remove it and reinstall it to the left back side tube sheet of the coil. The second hole of the water diverter needs to line up with the first hole in the coils tube sheet. If the other two screws line up with holes in tube sheet you got it installed correctly. Slide the coil back in place and button her up exactly like Zack showed us in this FINE video. I'm visually assuming this is a 3 or 4 ton. Hope this is helpful sir.
Yeah typically the manufacturer doesn’t require you to disassemble the drain pan from the coil. You just pull the whole thing out and rotate 180 and slide back in. And then you can flip the door panel
I hired a company to put in two air handler heatpumps and started watching youtubes about best practices out of curiosity, I had to fire them halfway through and then couldn’t find a company to take over and fix my systems. Had to buy $1,000 in HVAC tools, lear alot via YT. I’m confident I did a better job than most HVAC companies would do. I encourage “Study, Learn, Do”. No regrets. thos channel taught me good things.
At 68 I'm still working alone. Didn't put much back for retirement. It's a lot harder now. Don't make the same mistake.
Find yourself an apprentice. I just got in the field and having guidance is so helpful. Plus I know you have a lot of knowledge on the past and present forms of hvac. My favorite trade school instructor was Mr H, a 70 something year old guy that has been doing it for over 40 years. He gave us so many great tips just off of his experience alone. Take care my friend.
@European - American When you retire,,,,, you income should double. Take it from someone who didn't!
@European - American create passive income as you grow and make more money buy houses and rent them they will pay themselves and when you don’t work they’ll get you money
@European - American I’m 67 years old and recently retired after 35 plus years in the hvacr trade I was union so I have a nice pension a 401 k and social security as well I highly recommend the union I never sat home 👍🏻
I’m 28 I’m going to sign up some time this week for Hvacr
Seems like starting pay is around 18-22 hr. With a few years experience $25-32$ hr
Should be able to save 10,000-20,000 a year if you have roommates
Nice clean work. I’ve been fired from companies for taking to long on my installs. Don’t feel right over sloppy workmanship. It’s all about the money and craftsmanship is out the window. So i worked for myself for many years doing it my way. Home owners loved the quality of work and received many jobs from customers referrals. Retired now and still receive calls for the work performed and craftsmanship put into the job.
That's the way.
Me too.
Word of mouth referrals are the best method to obtain new customers. Some companies treat their customers as if they can't talk to everyone they know. I have seen word of mouth about a shoddy installer put him out of business. My company never had to even advertise. Our two co-owners set out from the start to treat customers right. These customers then did all the advertising. We always had more work than we could do.
That’s awesome ! One day I can say this myself!
I wish a "day's work" was flipping a coil pan, running some seal tight, mocking up some copper, and fitting up a drain. Good video though, I enjoy trying to learn new things watching others who know more than me.
Making several trips to complete a job = small profit
This channel is all about advertising
exactly, when i was an installer my boss would probably have fired me if I told him that's all i did lmao.
My old old boss went to zoomlock fittings and as a young man I loved them. Now working on my own, with the customers I have, there is nothing stronger than brazing
Bite the bullet and buy the press tool.
@@channelcatchaser9426 I'm good
@@channelcatchaser9426 if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Stay Brite 8.
Boomerdomus - "Don't fix what ain't broke"
Press fittings have their place. Emergency calls that require burn permits that need a fix like yesterday.
I love reading your comments its just a bunch of service guys telling you good job..... but you need to do this or that differently. I have to say in southern WV you're lucky to have anything installed "correct" or "in code." There is always a guy that can do it cheaper and believe me they def do it cheaper lol. Good lookin work boss man.
You do quality work Zack. Keep up the great work. Patience is the key with Hvac
@ QUALITY HVACR. I've been out of the trade for a couple of years now. 40+ year's of service, repair and install. I do industrial stationary work on 900 and 1200 ton chillers, cooling towers and huge AHU's, MAU's and large CRAHS now. The field service was a marriage of hard work, long hours, and road warrior miles. Grateful for that experience to work on residential, commercial and industrial HVAC and refrigeration. I DON'T miss it. 😉 The technology of the new equipment and tools is fascinating. Keep up the clean and impressive work young man. We need pros like you to carry on the tradition of professional and precise work into the future. Newbies? Pay attention, there are a lot of RUclips videos out there to learn from. Ted Cook with Anti DIY is another fantastic resource. God bless you all in the trade. We ROCK!
What’s your best advice to gain or retain knowledge for someone starting out in the field?
@@Lumenjensen777
1st off, have a strong work ethic and be a self starter. 2nd, start learning the basic refrigeration cycle and components. 3rd, check out any YT videos of techs that show how, why and show little tips of the trade. 4th, stay OPEN MIND!
Good luck!
Two words for you regarding those copper fittings…
“Defrost Cycle”
Sudden change of temperature and pressure over time it will make you FAMOUS amongst your customers!
I thought I wanted to be an electrician but I changed to HVAC when I clarified with myself that I don’t want to be an electrician anymore so I applied for an HVAC company and I’m going through orientations and starting in 2 weeks from now
I'm a fan. I like your quality and your thoroughness. 9:35 "atmospheric pressure" is the term you're looking for. The vent, after the P-trap, allows the condensation drain water to see atmospheric pressure, as opposed to the negative pressure created by the blower motor.
It’s crazy the differences between commercial and residential. One of the cleaner residential installs I have seen.
AC & sheet metal since 85, besides the time saved, not having to use an inert gas when brazing or worry about contaminates is nearly priceless, press tool and extra cost of fittings is nothing compared to old way, dragging torch set up attic, line driers/filters, cost of oxy/acetylene refills, labor
I'm jealous. Here in Phoenix, installing this stuff is like building a ship in a bottle.
extremely clean and professional , been on the ac trade for 8 years and i started catching bad habits for speed/and more call efficiency but im retrieving the love for the trade again with your videos . thanks for the content brother
A Jedi become you have. On my draw thru unit drain lines I like to put a 1/4 turn ball valve, then capped tee, then p trap, then another open tee. Allows you to blow thru before or after the trap during service or clogged drain issue. No more future cutting and couplings, making for a clean job. Also, don't forget to prime that trap.
Not a bad idea using a valve before the trap. I’ll have to utilize that
@@austincollier8057 Seems like more of a bottle neck than anything. I go breather before with unglued cap (for later cleaning of P-trap) and a breather after left open. I really don't get why everyone hates replacing P-traps. It's literally one of the easiest things to replace on the dang thing.
You definitely put Quality into HVACR. Everyone who does this kind of work should be required to watch your videos.
I love how fast hooking up the line-set was. Blew my mind.!!
One thing nice about those fittings, you don’t have to worry about wrapping and heating up the TXV
filter dryer has to be brazed in so its pointless
@@antoniodefilippis323 they actually make press filter driers, pricey like the tool and fittings, but available.
@marcuscrane1989 the O rings are notorious for getting cooked in heat pump applications
That 1st take off is gonna have some balancing issues being so close to the first transition also. Should move it down at least 18 inches from an elbow or transition
I agree, although the duct should fully pressurize eventually if sized and endcapped correctly, rule of thumb is within the 1st 3 to 4 feet of air leaving the fan coil, heater, or whatever you have, don't have any takeoffs within that distance. If you have no choice, install a scoop to help. The installation looks clean though, makes a big difference.
@@louhood672 I mean its literally no duct work, just all flexible duct which is terrible for airflow.
you should insulate your drain line traps, they will sweat in attics and other unconditioned spaces
There's a drain pan there for a reason.
@@musicnerd72 one thing you did not consider is rust in the drain pan which can simply be avoided in this case by insulating the drain line
As a semi retired HVAC guy let me commend you on your neat work. The coil conversion error was a simple one and can be easily corrected. Leave it to Theodore to be the negative nancy on your impeccable work.👍👍🇨🇦
Been using that rls for about 3 years now and man let me tell u it’s 1000000% Effective
I really like the electrical installation with the Liquid-Tight flex. Nothing looks worse than the typical Romex hanging all over the place.
Conduit
What’s wrong with a Romex does exactly the same thing plus it’s faster and not code to have carflex on wire unless it’s exposed
@@magma1273 ......I agree, 3/4" EMT
Wow I install these systems daily... and then I come home to watch you do the same thing lol.
When dealing with Trane, I'd order a downflow air handler if I couldn't get the pan and the discharge the way I needed it to be. It'd come already configured with the drain pan and discharge right configured in the way you need it.
You're a really solid HVAC guy. We all make small mistakes... Enjoy watching your videos
very clean, we always insulate our drain lines to prevent drip trails, + safety switch on the pan just in case extra security never hurts. Looks like the plugs not installed on the pan from what i can see.
Awesome content, this is the best it’s been. Keep it up!
Bro brazing is OG......LETS KEEP IT THAT WAY!!!
hello zack merry christmas and happy new year, i hope 2022 will be a year full of new experiences and success.
Been putting dryers neer AH they are first rust out ( outside ) it would be worth the extra cost if they made them 100 % copper ? it's smart to have take apart joints with the drain line . Sometimes the slim is hard to clean out . Nice that the industry is making good secondary drain pan's . Good install with room . Be glad your not banging your head on the joists or having to crawl to work on it!
Looks Great. Always takes pride in his work !
100% Agree!
Nice clean work. You made that fishing of the high voltage through the liquid tight look very easy. We know that took some time and effort, didn’t see you apply any electrical glide in the liquid tight . Again nice work.👍👍🇨🇦
using conduit lube helps when pushing the wire through by yourself.
Sweet looking job,brother! Thanks for the content
Great video and clean install. Thanks for giving those us who are DIY a view into the world where you live. I cant really justify the cost of that RLS system, but it looks like a great option for the pro.
I personally like using metal strips to hang duct. But the way you even space the black nylon is very nice my friend. 👌👌👌
In the future I’d love to see a review of the RLS system…say after 4-5 years of use. Great video.
I'd stir away from it. Not only is it a hefty initial investment. The couplings are lime 20+ EACH which is more for my. Oxy/acetylene tanks lol
Nice job. I was always in an attic that was 500 degrees in the summer. They never broke down during the spring or fall.
Ahahahahahaahahahahahahhahahahaahhahaahhahahahahahaha
I love making my jobs look like yours. I’m the only one at my company who does it and customers do notice
The install looks very nice great job!
Very clean work. Great job.
Nice installation, looks great, keep doing what you’re doing.
You do very nice work my friend! Kudos!
You are real man! Thank You! Great material.
Never seen these press tools used before,very effective and a great time saver .
And extremely expansive ..
Not a fan. I always label press fittings because they scare me.
in school rn at Universal Technical Institute for hvac! Just earned new sub will be looking at your vids bro
I would suggest that you use larger secondary drain pan with a separate drain pipe to the outside of the house.
@@Bryan-Hensley if you ever had a safety switch fail or not be fastened/ adjusted properly you would think differently. It happens. Having a piped secondary drain line ran out above a window for visual indication, is a good idea. Also (and I see this all the time) if you have a pan that isn't fastened or supported properly and level, you will have a problem sooner or later. When it comes to preventing a costly water damage repair, it only makes sense. Just make sure the damn secondary (and primary too) drain line has fall!
@@Bryan-Hensley Ss1 to keep from overflowing, wet switch to sense a few drips in pan if ss1 fails, drain on secondary pan and aquaguard as last failsafe IMO
@@Bryan-Hensley Not sure where your from. But out CA way you are required by code to run a secondary drain line over a window. So if it is being used the customer will see the water dripping on the window and know the pan has water in it. My current employer HATES safety switches because if it is activated it puts you on a very short timeline to get out to the customers house and get the problem addressed as the unit will not operate until it is. Conversely, if you run a secondary drain line over a window the unit will continue to work until you can get out to fix it, all while avoiding having to play musical customers and putting multiple people out for a single issue.
Maryland an Virginia require secondary drain line from pan to run out parallel with the main drive, no more over the windows, and mandatory wet switch in the drain pan
@@brenth3365 interesting, so of the primary is clogged and the secondary is being used you have to look at that secondary? I guess you mark them then?
You do some nice work. Not many have the skill or intuition. Most installers get paid peanuts and are expected to do more than one change out a day.
Those trane units are garbage. Evap will leak within 5 years.
🍻
You forgot to transfer that metal shroud that catches comdensation from the coil end loops, from the left of the coil to the right side. Anytime you swap the pan you have to swap that as well
I was about to say the same thing
Yep. Drip rail...
Called a splash guard, the duct will fill with water in cooling mode without it installed
@@lowe_30 splash guards are usually installed on box coils and sometimes slab coils. Since the evap coil is on the other side of the blower away from the supply plenum, it's unlikely you would have water splashing over into the supply plenum. Sometimes clogged or improperly installed drain lines or traps can cause water to overflow into the cabinet of the air handler and make its way into the supply or return plenums. A good drain switch like an SS2 or SS1 helps prevent that.
@@dgapp76 Trane and American Standard have them on A-Coils, I've been to plenty of calls where the splash guard had layed down and water was in duct work and running into floor or ceiling
A few things I want to point out.
How come your not using a water pump with 3/8
hose straight to the laundry or basement septic ,
and I think using easy-trap going from the coil straight to the pump works much nicer.
And one more thing you need a switch on the top off the furnace for service’s. Thx you
Quality work, you’re giving us tradesmen a good name.
that rls tool looks like a dream
Great, neat install! Thanks for sharing.
I have been a fan of ez traps lately, I feel like they make it user friendly for homeowners. That way they can check the trap whenever they change filter ( if they change filters at all lol).
Alex: you're a real dreamer; we all need dreamers (they come with new ideas) sometimes!
You won't in about 5 years when it gets brittle and cracks. Loved these when they came out 20 years ago but they don't like the Texas heat. Any I see now I remove not worth leaving it
Awesome video. Inspired to have my work this clean
Beautiful install nice and clean
That is a great looking job my friend!....
very quality and clean install!
Nice install. Very professional
Nice looking job Zack 👍
If you use plumbers pipe dope on the PVC fittings going into the coil it will seal properly and you will be able to unscrew in future if need be.
Make sure u have a good sloop to the front cause they will back up we have had problems with those drains cause of the pan the way its made
Those hilmor benders are spot on!! Looks good 👍 also from Cabot AR
dude the attics and crawlspaces you get to work on are so nice compared to the stuff I deal with here in Jersey lol. Love the content!
That the beauty of self employment you get to choose your workspace and pace at which to get it done properly.
What a lovely attic 😂
Great work! A couple things I would do different though. Not that your way is wrong or not code worthy, again great work. 1 there's no need for liquid tight (not to mention it's expensive), I'd use flex conduit. 2 I'd typically build a trap for a negative pressure box. I try to get a 3" difference just to be sure it doesn't prematurely/intermittently drain into the secondary. 3, I would only use a safety switch on the secondary and also make sure it drains into a conspicuous location. 4, I would also (especially since you're not brazing) use the factory rubatex and make it all one piece instead of using that split stuff. Other than that, everything looks great and your work is better than 90% of the stuff out there! Keep up the good work, dude!
Great craftsmanship
Man must be nice to be able to take your time… My boss will put me in time out if I don’t get it done in one day…
that's a good looking job very clean
We had a seminar at Ferguson a little while back trying to sell those quick clamp copper fittings , there is no way in hell I'd ever go for that crap. I could see very isolated circumstances where one would come in handy on a retrofit application where brazing was just not possible due to limited space or dangers of an open flame... But other than that there is no way I would ever use that mess. Clean looking install the only thing that we do extra we also add a drain float on the metal Pan itself, probably ultimately unnecessary but I feel better giving the customer that extra protection.
Man when you cut those bells and press a coupling, and if that coupling leaks your opening a can of worms.
We've had them crimping tools for a few years in the uk and with coiled soft drawn pipe they always leak. Not had any issues with hard drawn pipe yet
Good to know. thanks.
If everybody watching this is such a expert, why are you even watching? Leave the man alone.
If a man is going to instruct, the instructor should provide a quality lesson. Experienced installers have pointed out legitimate concerns which will benefit the lesser experienced. FYI, I read thru all comments to date & found everything I noticed mentioned while finding several comments on items I did not pick out. Truly a beneficial forum.
Nice work and clean
Kind of weird to see a video like this, here in Florida, when you install the system you start the system. Never seen anyone come back in and do this type of work. Even in new construction, on trim out, Everything is done except for the vacuuming of the system and the start up of the system. Hmm. Good work though.
Clean looking job!!!
Looks great bro!
The filter/drier belongs INDOORS per the mfrs that supply them loose, it is in the manual.
The suppliers that put them in the units from the factory are done to make sure that it gets installed. Usually this equipment is low end stuff installed by lowest bidder.
I've been dealing with outdoor driers since early 1990s. I'd say it's okay.
You have to move those drip shield baffles to the other side of the coil on both the front and the back of the coil. They divert the condensate down into the drain pan. Always read the manual
Also press fittings are trash. Carry your damn torch to the attic and braze in the lineset like it should be. I enjoy brazing and will NEVER use that garbage whether it’s zoomleak or rls. Used to like your channel but it’s become one big infomercial
You can’t forget the useless float switch on the p-trap
@@baitcasterdisaster8981 get with the times my guy, that’s exactly what they used to say about pro press fittings for water heaters. If done properly they never leak especially if it’s rated for 700 PSI. The future is here those who fail to adjust will be left behind!
@@Luis-jw2yx perfectly said. Somebody always has to complain about the way people do stuff and parts they use.
@@baitcasterdisaster8981 He said it more than once that he sponsors several items used in HVACR servicing and installation.-
I just started the HVAC field as a helper and I wanted to know some good tips to help the mechanics and myself grow and be more helpful. TIA
Thx for the through explanation.
Amazing looking install so far, I would've most definitely used a larger drain pan, that right supply edge looks to be right at the edge of that pan, maybe slide the air handler to the left inside the pan. Clean work though brother, Love your channel!
Pan is definitely not sized properly, since code requires the pan to be at least three inches longer and at least three inches wider than the equipment above the pan. So splitting the extra, there should be about 1.5 inches (or more) sticking out beyond the equipment.
@@stevebabiak6997 very true but codes vary from state to state, I don't know the codes in TN, I'm in NC and we are as you stated needing 3" all around. My number 1 priority in an attic installation is the condensation overflow prevention.
@@toddhagee6716 - I didn’t see a cut-off switch on the pan to deal with possible overflow …
@@stevebabiak6997 @11:25
I know those are probably viton seals on those fittings but I use plumbing crimp fittings and they don't last very long for domestic water.
Good job Zack.
Man that is one clean install hats off to ya bud. I’m curious why you did not have the heat kit and other things you needed to finish that one up that day and also is the customer not living there because that’s the only way i can see leaving a job unfinished.
I think the ez trap safety switch with the clear trap looks better and you can actually see all the crap that gets caught in there
In Florida we mount the air handler on full length and width Styrofoam blocks (2 high if we have room) to take up more space in the emergency pan, and also insulate the bottom of the air handler if it floods with water. This also makes emptying the emergency pan faster on a service call. Would love to spend a day seeing how it works around different parts of the country.
Florida is pretty much like Texas and other southern States.-
In my area of S. FL. We use either pans with metal rails/built up strut chassis, etc
@@Floridaman8783 I'm sure in different areas are methods suitable for the job. As long as they comply with the codes!
@@bobboscarato1313 All that matters. Neither one technically "has" to be there per se. It's oftentimes a matter of tech/installer preference and whatever the authority having jurisdiction wants. Around here they don't like the Styro and the blocks are hard to find anyway.
But all the various suppliers stock pans with built-in rails. And we put iso pads on the rails.
Lol bro I was just going to say something about the way he's got it supported . It looks like s*$# with the pump ups and foam blocks . Why not just fab a nice 2x4 stand or just use a solid sheet of foam for insulation /support .
You can cap it but drill a big hole on the side of the cap through the pvc pipe. Makes for a clean look
probably keeps pests out of of it too
The 1%... Hell of a nice job man!!!
Beautiful job men👍🏼
Great video brother but I can't help but to think that I would ever give up my torches for a pro-press or even the new shark bites they have I just trust it better rubber breaks down over time lines vibrate and over time they will leak I have seen it but to each their own still love the video and your details!
You are a smart man !!!! I have been doing this trade in super market and residential for 4 decades. You are correct they will not last. !!!!!!!!
Especially with the POE oil. And with the new mixes that keep coming out. Can’t go wrong with braze. Beside more cost effective in my humble 20 yrs in the field
Nice, neat job!
I see a few things that are different codes for me here in NC 1. We have to insulate the drain if in a attic 2. Drain has to be supported with metal hang strap 3. the primer must be seen on connected pvc
In ky. That job wouldn't fly all that flex imo. Looks like hack job just doesn't look good we use round metal in most attics flex only from duck 2 reg. Maybe I missed something
It looks like a sweet install. I just have one question, will raising the line set up in the air cause any issues with oil flow?
CLEAN WORK
For the drains support use some split rings
Looks clean as hell
That wye right off the square to Round is going to get a lot of blow by. Should have used a plenum to create stawić pressure that would help distribute the air more uniformly
Static *