Cutting takeoffs and proper attachment to trunklines (Mechanical Training # 104)
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- Опубликовано: 28 май 2024
- Test questions below!
Common tools used are linked in the description below;
Video Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:18 Tools used
0:50 How to use a Malco hole cutter
4:23 Assembly line process
6:19 The do's and don'ts of takeoff placement
9:48 Cutting takeoffs with snips
15:25 Installation of takeoff on insulated duct
18:11 Flex duct connection notes
19:17 Working with flex duct and measuring tricks
22:38 Flex connection to a boot
27:12 Flex connection to trunkline
29:02 AGL Mechaincal Tips Exclusive Tip
29:58 Flex connection to trunkline
33:45 More on Panduit straps
35:28 Proper mastic application
36:05 Closing
Tools used;
Wiss Scissors
amzn.to/3HKBKP5
Bostitch Staple Gun
amzn.to/3V8xCLN
Malco Hole Cutter
amzn.to/3FzAUBP
Red snips (Midwest offset were used in video)
amzn.to/3V99mZI
Duct tape used
amzn.to/3PD7441
Mastic tape used
amzn.to/3HHVAdx
Impact drill
Speed drill
Razor knife
Sharpie
Dykes
Duct tape used
amzn.to/3PD7441
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Cutting takeoffs and proper attachment to trunklines (Mechanical Training # 104)
1. When setting your hole cuter size you should;
A. set it for the exact size hole you are cutting
B. set it about a ¼” larger than the size you want to cut so that you have room for error when setting your takeoff
C. adjust the speed setting on your hole cutter
D. all of the above
2. When using your hole cutter you should;
A: cut in a clockwise rotation
B. slightly angle your hole cutter so that it cuts faster
C. pull back on the hole cutter towards the end of the cut so that the material doesn’t collapse.
D. all of the above
3. Whenever possible before starting takeoffs you should;
A. route all of your supply runs to the trunkline
B. mark your takeoff and then strap your run to the takeoff
C. mastic the trunkline
D. all of the above
4. When cutting takeoffs you should;
A. start and finish installing each takeoff individually
B. if possible mark all takeoffs at once, then cut all takeoffs at once, then install all takeoffs at once
C. carry all your tools with you while cutting takeoffs
D. all of the above
5. When installing takeoffs in a crawlspace the runs should be;
A. perfectly level
B. cut takeoffs towards the top of the trunkline and add an elbow to keep the runs high
C. cut the takeoff at a slight angle and angle then run upwards to allow more room for crawling
D. cut the takeoff towards the bottom of the trunkline to allow room to crawl over
6. When marking takeoffs avoid placing takeoffs;
A. closer than 12” of the endcap
B. on a transition
C. on an elbow
D. all of the above
7. When marking takoffs, takeoffs should be;
A. at least 6” apart if not more
B. staggered from each other and not directly across
C. on the correct size duct outlined on the plans
D. all of the above
8. After setting a takeoff you should inspect and confirm that
A. there is no material obstructing the opening
B. that the radius of the takeoff aligns well with the duct
C. there is a good seal around the takeoff, mastic tape if necessary
D. all of the above
9. When working with flex duct it is important to
A. stretch the flex out after opening the box
B. keep your ends tucked when working with flex
C. immediately strap flex that it is hanging off a boot or fitting
D. all of the above
10. When planning runs out each run should have
A. a strap every 8’
B. downward slope for proper air flow
C. at least 4-6 feet of flex with two 90 degree turns to avoid excessive noise and airflow
D. all of the above
11. Before hanging boots they should;
A. always have flex attached
B. have mastic applied if application allows
C. have boot clips or plaster flanges if needed
D. all of the above
12. Flex runs should be routed and strapped to the trunkline prior to cutting takeoffs. When doing this it is important to consider;
A. planning the most efficient route to the takeoff while considering attic access
B. strapping every 4’ and avoiding any sagging
C. strapping properly to avoid a kink at the boot
D. all of the above
13. When determining where to cut flex for trunkline attachment it is important to
A. cut flex about 6”-8” longer to allow for connection loss, adjust if cut too long
B. cut flex exact length to takeoff
C. allow plenty of extra flex so that there is plenty for a connection even if the run ends up being too long
D. cut flex short and add splice later
14. When making a flex connection to the trunkline you should
A. tuck the end of your flex duct so that the insulation is doubled up
B. gently tighten the flex with a double piece of duct tape
C. use double pieces of duct tape about 5” long, rounding them while sticking them in place
D. all of the above
15. When applying mastic to a takeoff you should
A. only mastic tape seems
B. solid mastic a clean circle around the takeoff
C. mastic before you tape
D. all of the above
You can always tell when you're being taught by someone with tons of experience. Great job dude!
Jack Reacher does HVAC too? I'm impressed😂
My 1st thought as well.
Mine too! 😂
I can't imagine a better teacher.
I have to applaud the teaching capacity, patience, and forthright giving the knowledge that this fellow is capable of. Your methodology should be taught to other teachers. So many are flawed. Thank you for your time sir. You’re one in 1 million. 👍🏻🤓
I teach for a living and he is a natural born teacher. His companies website says they have 100 years of experience, so I’m guessing he came from a family of excellent teachers. But I’m sending this to a number of my HVAC oversight on projects I’ve volunteered for because it is so helpful. Please keep putting out more. I will watch them all!!!
@@courtneywilliams9530. Company’s
My baby brother just recently got promoted to foreman at a hvac company and wants to bring me in. He told me to try to learn as much as possible about the trade by watching RUclips videos. He said that your videos are the most informative ones and that I should follow and subscribe. He also told me to lose some body weight. When you mentioned working in crawling spaces and uncomfortable positions, I understood. Thank you
Highly recommend starting your own hvac company. You'll make millions.
I'm a DIYer and started a register reposition out of frustration. Was really uncomfortable until I watched this video. I am now so ready to finish this job😀.
I watched like toooooo many videos of nonsense before I found you!!! and the only problem was because your title makes your videos hard to find !!!! 😭😭😭 ( for a beginner not knowing those are the terms to use)
Amazing tutorial , you are an amazing teacher!! I wish I found you 16 videos ago 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Andrew, that was fantastic ! I'm a professional handyman and this is probably the best video I've ever seen for conciseness, camera quality, knowledge, and voice presentation . Great job ! PJ
Best video on professional instruction installation I have ever seen. Thanks sir.
When this piece ended, I thought, "Wow! That was the best..."
🫡
Please keep making content! These videos put This Old House to shame. I just paid for a system design for my house with no preexisting duct and I'll be DIYing and this is the best advice for ducting i've stumbled across.
Man you are professional with no doubts.
damn there's no chance ill find someone in miami, fl that will do a job with this level of detail
Really great tutorial. I learned a lot. Thank you!
God help me if I ever need to crawl up in an attic and do any of this - but if I do, I'm ready! Nicely done!
I watched many videos and got bored AF. But for some reason yours got my attention and I watched the whole video. I’m trying to add a run to my garage so I’m sure this is what I need to learn.
Great video. Thanks for the lesson!
I have been in hvac for 30 years but installing ductwork is not my thing. Thanks for the information and detailed explanation
I use zip ties and duct aluminum tape exclusively
I'm hooked. OG methods shown here!
Took on the job of installing my own furnace/heat duct. Lots to learn, thx for all the in depth info!
Thank you for taking the time to teach us this very much appreciated
Amazing video,very clear and at point teaching. Love your video and too bad you are not servicing Florida. We need to connect almost all returns from rooms to the main line. Builder did run the flex tubs but didn’t connect them to the Trunkline and that cause us a great trouble with AC uneven in rooms having 6-7 degrees difference from main hallway in the middle of the house where the main return it’s hook up and the rooms around the hallway. Now after leaving 10 years in the house we discover the returns are not hookup to the trunkline. I would love to give you the job but you are in different state. But honestly your video couldn’t be more clear and having mechanical knowledge and education,I think we my husband we can do it.
Thank you for your video and I already subscribed . I enjoy watching you valuable classes! 🥂
2 years as an apprentice summed up in a 36 minute video. Great work. Keep them coming.
Andrew, I wasnt familiar with your channel before watching this video. Just wanted to say that I love your communication style. So deliberate, detailed, well reasoned...no fluff all useful knowledge. That was 36 minutes of learning. A very satisfying experience. Thank you!
you gotta add a tip jar or something to your links --- this is such well done and high quality content
Thank you! Going to be installing my own ducting to save some money. This video really helps.
F&B refrigeration guy looking to upgrade my 1940s cottage to central HVAC.
Gracias.
Pro! Pride in workmanship! Whatam I doing here. He had me hooked. Thanks.
point is, no excuses for not knowing your job. well done.
I have done it wrong and now I know thanks to you friend!
Electrician here, I can say I have never worked around any ductwork this guy has installed. The amount of times I have had to fix flex attachment points with only the large zip ties holding and zero tape. Weather, they are off when I get there or fall off from the easiest little touch. Having a conscious might make a little more work or take a little more time at the time, but what used to be called taking pride in one's work makes less work for all involved. Think down the line, after we all leave the jobs, service and maintenance involve human bodies with access being the most important part of those two inevitable facts of what we do in the trades.
Those guys must NOT be using a pan duet gun to tighten the zips. The zip will stay on a lot longer than the tape.
I do hvac and when I run duct I use both zip and tape. Imo opinion to use one without the other is lazy. I've been back on jobs and seen the mess after a few years have passed .
Thanks… You just saved me $4000. Awesome
sir I want to thank you for an outstanding presentation ! you have saved me thousands of dollars , you are very practical in your profession you have one good gift , and this one is needed in the HVAC community as a homeowner I will take out my 30-year-old duck board that has invaded my home . again thank you so much for your presentation ): God bless you and your family .
I thought your cutting method for a takeoff hole was quite novel and effective. Given then chance, I'm gonna try that myself in my own DIY work. Thanks for the very helpful video.
From a fluid mechanics point of view, adjacent takeoffs (or takeoffs on opposite sides of the trunk in the same area) are more efficient than having two side by side on the same side of the trunk (particularly when they are close together). Adjacent ones will evenly distribute the airflow to both takeoffs and create two opposing vortices in the trunk which creates a negative pressure in front of takeoffs leading to a forward turbulent flow in the trunk line which has better sheer properties and can actually improve performance over longer runs. Having them on the same side one after another will create two vortices with the same direction on the same side, this can cause two big issues. First, if they are too close, you will have flow separation and potentially flow reversal immediately after the second takeoff. Second, if they are too close the vortex around the first takeoff can create a turbulent flow over the outlet to the second one creating a drop in pressure in the second line.
Fantastic video. Very well explained with no fluff.
Keep ‘‘em coming bro- you’re helping people !
Excellent presentation. Thank you.
Excellent Video! Thank you!
Excellent video. Very detailed. Easy to understand. 👍
Thank you Sir. Just started in the Trade!! Thanks a Million!!
Great content Andrew! Keep showcasing your craftsmanship! It inspires guys like me to improve our skill set and quality of work.
I love the malco hole cutter
Excellent Video! We'll explained. I've seen many duct tutorials and you are one of the best.
thank you for your excellent lesson on Flex duct work. I am currently replacing my old flex duct. I now see what I could have done better. Thank goodness, I have only just started. Hopefully, the fold back method will make things much easier. Thanks again for your video.
Excellent video and information! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great information dude. Thanks for the video!
awesome lesson, I can't wait to see the workmanship I have in my attic. I'm going to finish a room upstairs and wanted to see how everything needs to be. That was a great how to and explanation on how it all works. thank you, Sir.
Thank you for teaching 👍👍👍
excellent explanation
Phenomenal! Great video Thank You Andy!
Andrew sorry
Gold! Thank you 🙏🏼
TWIMC
here in socal in commercial for flex tails, we use panduits with a strap gun and some people sink 3-4 screws into the zip tie. After using the strap tool, I've never had one snap or fall off with or without screws. As long as the strapping tool was used on a fitting with a rib, without a rib it'll forsure pull off but get it tight with the strap gun and fasten some screws through the zip ties, like 3 or 4 minimum even spaced out, then call it good. And the use of tape is unnecessary and air leakage will be minimal which imo makes the process easier, quicker, and prevents frustrations from working with tape.
I'd also like to add that i think people snap the zip ties using the strapping tool and snap the zip ties which leads to frustration, causing them to hand tighten them or use linesman. Which is easily pulled off, however some screws into the zip ties can help without the strapping gun.
However I believe this is due to mishandling of materials. If film tape, zip ties, or even the pookie get left in the sun it can degrade such materials significantly.
Thank you showing how to insulate fittings, i spent hours google searching how to and such info was not available. Cant wait to wrap a 90 and it look tits
Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
deserves a subscription 🤝🏼💪🏼
Just watched all 36 minutes and loved it. You have taught me a lot about running and installing ductwork. Am about to tackle my house here in Florida. Original ductwork is 39 years old and I’m losing air and house stays dusty all the time. My house is only 1200 sq ft
and replaced my unit from 1 1/2 ton to 2 1/2 ton just 10 months ago. The original ductwork is all flex , main truck line is 10” with 4” going to all the registers. Any tips or advice or other of your videos of yours you can tell me. Thanks again for taking the time to share your knowledge in this matter of HVAC ductwork.
Hi Mark. I'm in FL too with similar situation. Did you get this done? How did it go?
Thanks bro...lots of info
When we do takeoff on insulated trunks we use the end of starter to cut thru by rotating back& fourth,like when you demonstrated dropping marker. Fantastic tutitor glad I' ve found your channel,subbed 1st. video before done. Great content no nonsense instructions! Keep them coming,love phrase quality is your reputation!! Permission to borrow sir? Thank you
You can use that phrase all you want. I'm glad you like the channel.
The guides state it is better to have opposite take offs at the same place for efficiency, as staggered close together reduces aire flow, static pressure.
Great video loved it, just wondering how to choose right duct size, I am planning DIY duct for my parents house. Please have video on this subject
Fantastic teaching and incredible work. My only concern was that you kept mentioning duct tape, but I’ve always heard duct tape is no good in this application (oddly enough).
What type of tape do you use?
What type of tape is he using?
Didn’t know such tradesmen still existed. Must be the last one.
I have always done at least two wraps of duct tape and 3 screws. Do you find a need for screws? Awesome videos. I watched the first one a while back. Glad to see you back at it.
Well that's a great teaching sermon right there my friend the problem is you have to find the suppliers that will stock these parts I love those start collars not all suppliers have them
Branching is the best best method, it self-balances air pressure and velocity.gradually reduce the size from the plenum with wyes and always use angled take-off’s (unless you’re working on a tight area such as a basement)
Also,make sure to use dedicated Panduit gun (semi or automatic) and keep duct stretched and turns smooth!
As a side note,we always use manual adjustable dampers, (where access is possible) it pays off when customers call-back complaining about un-even airflow (trust me,they always find a problem in one of the rooms)!
And last but not least… if you’re running over 25 feet duct,upsize diameter 2” for friction,remember air is a fluid and follows the rule of “Path of least resistance”!
I keep learning and improving my methods every day and following others good practices I’ve seen when I get a chance(on service calls) and applying what I’ve learned over the years… I must say without bragging that the results are extremely satisfying!
This video it’s a good introduction for the apprentice on “How to” do the work,but in practice wouldn’t perform at it’s best!
Good enough it’s neither good nor enough!
Don’t get me wrong,this is a good video,but it would be a great video if it further explained the above mentioned facts!
Why don’t you explain what your “branching” method is and show these “angled” takeoffs you would use on round pipe trunk line.
If it’s snaplock pipe, use your duct knife and it pops a hole super easy
You look like Jack Reacher /Alan Ritchson
man - wish I'd found this sooner... I am on the tail end of redoing my upstairs (attic) ductwork. Not knowing how to handle rigid duct I opted to just do everything with flex. I basically made 2 straight headers down each side of the attic and tapped off to boots using wyes. I screwed the flex wire to the wyes with zip screws and sealed with mastic tape.... the inside air seals are durable but the jacket seals are not super great. I used canned foam to foam insulate the wyes but it makes the connection to the flex insulation odd. I think my way out to a decent quality is duct tape between the vapor barriers and foam. I am also considering zapping them with a coating of spray foam (2 part, not 1 part cans) as additional exterior sealant. If the duct taping goes well then I may just be able to mastic the whole joint instead.
I leaned a lot on the attempt and I've also learned a lot from your great channel. If I redo my ducts in the future (if the ones I just did have an issue or maybe when I go to change out my new HVAC units in 12-15 years) then I will definitely go with rigid metal headers, hopefully I can just find pre-insulated spiral sections... I don't understand why those aren't more of a "thing".... pre insulated spiral with an array of pre insulated fittings... suspend, screw, foam seal together.
Anyway... thanks Andrew!
Pookie on the inner liner first, then panduit strap on the inner liner
why pookie the inside ?What's the point on that?
I like cutting the take offs before I wrap it If I can…. just curious what you thought about that. Also why You don’t use the skrim tape for the duct wrap
By code in Kentucky we have to use metal tape and zip tides instead of mastic. I argue my point that zip tides are worthless but can't argue with the inspector
Ok liked and subscribed first of all, second, I'm a commercial HVAC lead in Indiana and I have never seen anyone duct sealing the outside of insulation. Is that required in your area? we also never use the yellow formaldehyde insulation usually r-4 1/2 inch formaldehyde free, the white kind. Unfortunately, Panduit straps are commonplace here but I also tape the inner flex and then the outer after Panduits. Though after hearing your tear out experience with sweating I may stop panduit strapping the outer jacket. I am very curious to get your thoughts on some things as I am always trying to grow and learn. We typically wrap out pipes before installation, and then double back and duct seal all metal seems, then the next day we come through and piece out the missing insulation. We do not use staples as a matter of fact I have never seen staples be used here. Almost everyone uses Nashua FSK tape for holding the insulation together and some companies only use 3M Venture Tape UL181 which both does not adhere very well, and looks bad so I try not to ever use it. Also wanted to give you some video ideas since it seems that the channel is new. I would love to see you wrap a reducer and an end cap and some other fittings. thanks.
Yeah, I actually need to see a reducer wrapped as well
The heat in the attic will eventually harden the duct tape. I have some in my attic and it needs to be replaced. So I would use metal tape or something else.
Thats awesome! What is your method of insulating boots?
We have been working on a video on insulating misc fittings which includes straight boots, 90 degree boots and endshot boots. We are hoping to get this video uploaded this week. Stay tuned!
No mention of dampers. Do you normally not use them?
Hi Andrew. Great video. Great tips. Great techniques. One question: What is the duct tape you are using? Many thanks.
In this video I used Nashua 365 a.co/d/fAO8lsM This is a really sticky tape though so if it is really hot out 90°+, you might want to use shurtape (I dont have the model at this time).
@@aglmechanicaltips Wow.!! Thank you for the speedy reply. I will give the Nashua 365 a try. Many thanks.!!
Great video, is this some special duct tape for hvac ducts? Thanks
Yes, the tools and materials used are linked in the video description
Thanks for the great tips 👍 I am in Canada and we use rigid uninsulated ducts, which are (mostly) in conditioned space. But it is very informative especially as the flex ducts (as the manufacturers say) are gaining popularity here as well. Could you advise what kind of duct tape you are using and what will happen if you dont mastic over the tape at the take off? Do you use flexducts for 2 storey houses as well? We have difficulty moving air from the basement to the second floor with rigid ducts. I am wondering how it would be with the flexducts. Thanks 🙏
I was using Nashua 365 duct tape but I will changeout the tape used based on the season and outdoor temperature (super sticky duct tape is hard to work with on hot days). Mastic provides air sealing when applied directly to sheet metal seams. When applying mastic over duct tape on insulation seams it just provides another level of durability to the tape and prevents the tape from coming up. If you didn't mastic it, it would probably be alright but if it's available I would apply it.
Couple notes on flex ducts; In my region, we don't have basements and normally wouldn't "chase" duct up to another level due to the length of run and a couple other factors. Long lengths like that should probably be ran in hard pipe but flex can be used if you do a static loss calculation on the flex and upside the flex to a larger size to account for the static loss. Example: a 6" hard duct that is 20' long might be equivalent to a 8" flex duct that is 20' long (I didn't calculate this, I'm just giving you an example). Hope this helps.
@@aglmechanicaltips Thank you very much for such detailed answer. 🙏
Do you ever have condensation forming on the uninsulated ducts?
@@hairlesscactus in normal situation - no. In my experience I had issue only once, when the guy closed basement registers and it was very humid there and airflow was slow, so that ducts where very cold. Sometimes plenums sweat a little bit. Other than that no issues. And we have 70% humidity in the summer.
@@thecurious6721 thank you for the reply!!
Do I need to paint the tape seams with duct seal on the supply and return ducts in a crawlspace if the crawlspace is encapsulated and has a dehumidifier installed?
Yes, unless the space the duct is in is the space you are conditioning I would seal it as much as possible. Any leakage into the crawlspace is lost efficiency. I use a product called "mastic tape" on my ductwork seams instead of duct tape then mastic (just saves time). I also seal the exterior seems but that is a code that exists in my region and might not apply to you.
Gteat video. What is the R value of the flex you used in the video?
R-8
I have to take out a air return. It had some rust and I bought a new one, but I can’t get the original one off. There’s some kind of a weird tool that doesn’t work for a screw of any kind I recognize. How can I get it out?
Can you teach us to connect a downdraft for an evaporative unit 3000 c.f.I . House 2:29 is 40 length x 35. It has three room left house plus 10x10 bathroom and right side living ding and kitchen.
Do we use aluminum duct work or that flex stuff.
Please teach us. Need your advise
Great video. No FSK tape?
No, we are required by code to coat our duct tape seams with mastic in my area. Duct tape works a bit better for contours in this application in my opinion. I do use FSK for small tears and rips simply because I can hide the tear altogether and it looks better than a blob of mastic in one small area.
@@aglmechanicaltips Gotcha, thanks for the response.
do you have to use a round take off on a round pipe? or can you bend the flange of a flat take off to fit? (none of the supply stores in my area have round takeoffs)
I've always been able to find round takeoffs, that's odd that your suppliers only have flat. I don't think flat would look good because it would bend the pipe it is attached to.
@@aglmechanicaltips one of the downsides of living in Hawaii - had to change my plan twice. Was going to do duct board, but can only find 1” duct board r4… so I found a place with round metal duct, but now no local place (even Home Depot) has round take offs! I can get em shipped but then they’re like $70 each … and I got 10 branches
Hey man. At 30:00 let's say I have a damper in that collar with a threaded rod and wingnut sticking out. What 's the best way to get that flex over that without rips, etc?
I understand the struggle here. I bend the damper handle out 90° from the takeoff. Make a VERY small slit in the insulation jacket and press the handle through the insulation and insulation jacket. I then stab through a piece of duct tape with the handle to prevent the slit I made in the insulation jacket from spreading. I then bend the handle back down. So in the end you have a clean piece of duct tape flat against the insulation with the handle sticking though it. I hope I explained this right, kind of difficult... Also, depending on the flex brand you might not have to make the slit and can actually pierce it with the damper handle itself.
@@aglmechanicaltips you are the man. Thanks for the info. Top notch channel.
Your knowledge is amazing/impressive! I am working on a small 2 bedroom 1 bath home 880sq ft. The plan is to install a 2 ton unit with a square to round plenum that will include a 12" trunk 5-6' long. The trunk will have 6 takeoff saddles, (2) 8" for kitchen/dining and living room. (2) 7" for the 2 bedrooms and (2) 5" for the utility room and bathroom. From trunk to register boots there will be flex duct used 3' to 6' long max. I am wondering if this will provide sufficient air flow? The ducts will be in the unconditioned space with the intention of producing a compact system. Attic space is limited, the highest point is 24" Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Without me going to paper with what you outlined I believe this will work fine. I would run a 14" return minimum to lower the system static pressure but 12" supply should be fine.
@@aglmechanicaltips Thanks Andrew! I watch your videos over and over, you have made it soo much easier for me to insulate. I hope you were in south florida, I would hire you, down here quality and workman ship is soo poor. Its all duct board and flex. I am looking for a quality install that I can only achieve by doing it myself.
@@aglmechanicaltips After writing my question. I have decided to make it mostly sheet metal, except for the area that the ducts cross the attic opening, there I will run short piece of flex, so if I ever need to go in the attic, I can remove the flex for easy access.
@@aglmechanicaltips I am installing a 9" jump duct from room to room and in the bedroom I am placing a 14x14 return grille on the wall where the air handler is on the other side. For the rest of the house, I will be using a louvered door.
Return will work great like that. Is there a reason you are using hard pipe for the branch lines? Sheet metal is technically better durability wise but if flex is strapped properly there is absolutely nothing wrong with it and your system will be much quieter at the vents as flex does much better acoustically. So hard pipe or flex but if it was my house I would flex those runs all day long especially with how short they are...
Safety glasses???
How do I measure insulation for my duct work, it's about 6' round, I want to make sure the insulation fit?
I did a video on wrapping round pipe. See link on my channel but these are the pipe pattern sizes. Note that depending on the brand etc. these pattern sizes can be off a little bit. Always dry fit pattern sizes and adjust as needed;
Pipe Pattern Sizes (ONLY APPLIES TO 3” INSULATION);
(Note: Pattern sizes can change based on manufacturer and other factors)
ALL SIZES ALREADY INCLUDE 2” LIP!
4” = 16" + 2" Lip
6” = 23" + 2" Lip
8” = 30" + 2" Lip
10” = 38" + 2" Lip
12” = 44" + 2" Lip
14” = 52” + 2" Lip
16” = 57" + 2" Lip
18” = 65" + 2" Lip
Thanks for putting your heart into what you do. I appreciate your sharing of knowledge!
The only issue I see with double wrapping the tuck so much is you have a lot of excess inner liner bunched up
What scissors are you using?
amzn.to/3HKBKP5
Hvac 101 jack reacher style
Was that 4’ or 6’ flex?
6' is ideal
@@aglmechanicaltips ok thanks for the reply
What tape do you use?
Mastic tape used
amzn.to/3HHVAdx
Duct tape used
amzn.to/3PD7441
@@aglmechanicaltips when do you use each tape? Is the mastic tape used on the connection between the flex inner core and the metal takeoff and also the flex inner core to metal boot?
Is the non-mastic tape only for the insulation?
Great series of videos btw. I've learned a lot!
Very informative video.
I subscribed so as not to become a bitch/ripping duck tape at same time.
Haha….that broke the class tension at the end.
Curious if you have a video on installing the vent boxes.
I’ll scour your videos to see…..loved the tutorial.
Do you have a cheaper recommendation on the tape to use?
$55.00 is a lot of money for a small job.
Big swol
Imo the best way to start the hole is by driving ur duct knife through it. Just saying
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I like a lot of your work sir but there is so much misinformation in this video. No take off 24” from a capped end or any reduction. All takeoffs should be 24” or more apart. It is better to have 2 takeoffs across from each other than to have then closer than 24” apart!!!!! All of this information is so readily available from ASHRAE, Dept. of Entergy, and so many more recognized sources! The old way of doing things may work for you but you are cost your customers so much more each year on utilities! When you could be saving them money on those utilities because the system is designed and installed to be efficient. Save them cost for repairs because the system is struggling. The system will last much longer when designed correctly. There are so many more resins!
Can you tell me what tape you used and if it would be good in a Fl attic?
There is a link to the duct tape used in the video description. I'm in Charleston, SC and it works great here, should work great in Florida.
If it’s snaplock pipe, use your duct knife and it pops a hole super easy