Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
Saw arrived yesterday ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and today I cut about 3/4 cord of wood with it. Make sure you get an extension chord that is at least 12 gauge wire, minimum. This is my first electric in about 10 years, and things sure have improved. The self-sharpener works great, and it just kept cutting through some pretty decent logs. Wear your eye protection, and ear protection. Excellent saw.
I took one of those Stihl chainsaws out of my neighbor's trash. Used a brake hone on the cylinder & threw in a new piston & rings...Is it perfect??? No, but that was 4 years ago & I am still using it to cut firewood during the season... So worth the $50 bucks I put into it.
Another trick that needs verification. The cheap homeowner versions of these motors looks to be identical except the piston, which has rings on the 300hr version vs the 50hr homeowner version with them. So in theory you could buy the cheap motor, and swap the piston for far less than the cost of the commercial unit. Maybe she can verify. There could be different coatings on the cylinder for instance.
Re doing a cycle is not for everyone but it still worth to even have a mechanic do it. I have had a saw one for two hours after dyi cycle my best repair.
WRONG! You hit 37K subscribers because YOU are awesome. If you didn't provide relevant and useful information from an honest perspective, we wouldn't be here. THANKS!!!!!
@@Chickanic That scope tool is sweet! I could have my wife perform my much needed, over due prostate exam! It's the type of thing I don't want my dr performing, maybe if he bought me dinner first.
Wow- this video popped up on my feed today, 6-18-22, and I already knew she was past 100k subs, but to go from 37k less than 7 months back-WOW! You are doing something incredibly right! Keep it coming!
I bought a WB-028 new in 1980. It was a great running saw, always started on the second or third pull. I kept it clean, never used the wrong mix, had 11 chains and two bars. Sharpened my own chains, cut a lot of wood. Before I retired, I took it completely apart, replaced all the rubber parts and hoses, clutch, etc. Never let anyone borrow it. Sold it in 2016, sometimes I wish I had it back. Don’t abuse or neglect equipment.
I've got an 024 from that era that works just fine, and I asked the local Stihl dealer if I should replace it with something newer. He said, "No! That's a good saw. Keep it." We've now bought other Stihl equipment from him.
I have a McCulloch PRO MAC 610 which I purchased in 1984, still runs great, with very little maintenance, its a great saw. Always worked on it myself, have cut many a cord of wood, to many to count, and its still going, but my wood cutting day are over, 75 years old now and gave it up, love your videos.
Diagnosis engine was majorly overheated ,,carbon tells me it has lots of hours ,this sort of scarring is caused by A ran way too hot , B someone inserted straight gas in tank ,C running very lean and D overrevving caused by severely dull chain which led to overheating I just came across your channel and immediately liked what i saw ,,very informative and well explained ,,I clicked LIKE AND Subscribed i should say i am a 47 yyr old guy with 30+ years experience with small engines ,,i still remember working on lawnmowers with points ignitions
@@kenbrown2808 very true but i learned years ago never judge a book by it's cover cause i have several saws that look just the same and any one of them will start in 3 pulls and run all day ,,I've had my Husqvarna 45 since 1995 and it's on it's 3rd bar , it's been ran over with a truck once ,and just plain looks like junk ,,but i'll match it against any cheap saw from menards any day of the week
@@wildcoyote34 my dad still uses his 024 super. he's also got one from the previous generation, but it's on our saw shop's "fix it when we find a part" rack, because they haven't made parts for it for decades. (the run/stop switch has failed)
@@kenbrown2808 that sucks , i actually like those old saws ,,i have a whole collection of Homelite saws the biggest of them a MONSTER ,, super 1050 , i got it with a 42 inch bar and a 54 inch bar the thing has like 8 horsepower ,,,not a saw you want to swing around much cause it weighs north of 60 pounds with the big bar
@@wildcoyote34 I specifically bought the power head with the best power to weight ratio, and use a 32 inch bar with a semi skip chain, so I can cut stuff on the ground without bending over, but still don't kill it doing full depth cuts.
I'm in the tree business...when new ppl get in the biz, one of the first questions they ask is if I use stihl/husky/red max 2 stroke mix or if I just save a bunch of money and use was-mart tech-whatever 2 stroke bc the stihl dealer just wants to make a bunch of money selling 2 stroke mix. 'Many a saw has been slowly burnt up by using cheap 2 stroke oil', I tells 'em. 'Don't do it!'
Very well done. I just found your channel, you showed the real deal right here. Ya gotta look at the cylinder, either use the scope, or pull the muffler. You have done very well here, great video, simple, easy for anyone to follow, and great editing. Never loan your chainsaw, they come back broke, or not at all. Thank you.
I like the simple test of supporting the weight of the saw by the recoil, especially if I’ve stumbled across a real bargain and I don’t have tools with me.
I'd much rather have her as a good friend. Wives tend to be problematic and expensive to maintain and are a bitch to get rid of when they stop working correctly. The after-market value really sucks.
First question I ask is "Can I take the muffler off?" If the seller takes the conversation to a different point, I'll just listen to him politely and then thank him for his time. That chainsaw was worth 100 bucks tho.
Always remove the muffler, 99% of the time, a piston will scuff on the exhaust side.(I've only seen one scuff on the carb side) It only takes about 5 minutes to remove and replace a muffler.
Extremely helpful! I have an old wood chipper that was running very poorly after sitting idle for several years. Took it to a small engine shop and they said no compression, not worth trying to fix. Then a very knowledgeable friend said the rings might just be stuck. I'm going to get an endoscope, take a look and see what's really going on. Great advice.
Worked on saws for years. That one has been lean likely due to improper fuel mix or cheap oil. It was way lean when she ran it. Put a jug kit on it and it will be like new. Takes about 30 min to swap cylinder/piston assembly. Use a true 50:1 mix with only Stihl oil. 2.6oz/ gal or 5.2oz for 2 gal. Don’t mix more than you can use in a month or so and let the saw warm up before revving or loading. I’ve had my FS76 trimmer for 20+ years. 2 pull start and runs perfect. Happy cutting
Pro arborist here. "Cheap" oil would not do anything like that to a cylinder. The saw was likely run with straight gas/no oil mix. Mixed gas lasts much longer than a month, especially if the mix contains a stabilizer. No need to warm the saw up before cutting. Stihl oil is a waste of money. I have saws 20 and 30 years old, always run with "cheap' oil, and they still have original ring, cylinder and power.
James, You're right. I am a professional landscaper/lawn care operation. Used to do tree work. If we waited to warm up equipment before we used it, we'd never get anything done...
@@POOKIE5592 You can treat your chainsaw like the space shuttle if you have time to waste, but those of us who use saws at work don't do unnecessary procedures. A chainsaw is a simple engine with only a few moving parts. Automobiles have complex engines with dozens of oil channels that need to be warmed and filled before stressing the engine. Chainsaws can be put right to work immediately after starting, as soon as the engine is revving smoothly. The only indications in any manual are to not redline for more than a few seconds, and to warm the saw up briefly if the air temperature is far below freezing, which is only to get consistent burn inside the cylinder. I regularly redline my saws after a cold start to see if they are running smoothly, and then dive right into the wood. They have lasted 20+ years.
Grab it by the starter handle and lift it off the ground. If the cord doesn't unwind you can be more certain compression is reasonable. Always pull the muffler if it's being sold as a runner.
Excellent video!!! You know, Dony-boy also preaches that gospal, take that muffler off, and take a look. If the seller won't let you do that, don't buy it. Excellent PSA, it was very much needed! Your amazing Chickanic, we appreciate you!
I understand that the guy spent 100.00 on the saw and it has a scored cylinder and piston, but I would still keep it and go to eBay or Amazon and purchase a new cylinder and piston combo with a new cylinder gasket. In about two hours and an additional 30.00 to 50.00 dollars he would have a like new saw again. I found a Stihl MS 210 at a GoodWill Store and paid 7.99 for it, got home and purchased some parts from eBay for around 80.00 bucks and it looks and runs just like a new saw. So he should put a little effort into it and for 200.00 less than a new one he would have a really nice slightly used new saw.
Well, homieshenna. If you would read what I wrote and try to understand it you would realize I said if the person who had her work on the saw had put 30.00 to 50.00 bucks on a new cylinder and piston, and a cylinder and piston combo for that saw is less than 50.00, he would have a great saw for 200.00 less than the cost of buying a new saw. Hope this helps you to understand!
Yeah there are so many parts supplier out there that if you willing to do a little homework and find the numbers you can get the same part online for way less the then dealer. A lot of them have the manufacture part number listed with their part. I needed a carb for a stihl weed eater. Dealer wanted $100 for it. I spend 20 minutes looking up the part and got the carb for $10. Same carb only thing is it didn't say stihl on it. All the makers are buying their parts from other places you just to take the time to find them.
New top end in parts is cheaper then plastic handle and trigger assembly. Inspect the aftermarket heads the can have some pretty mean burs on the ports but nothing some light honing can't fix.
Someone was skimping on the 2 stroke oil. Maybe forgot it all together. Muffler is usually caked with black shar/goo if too much oil is mixed in. This exhaust port looked pretty clean.
Oh don't you worry. When I go to buy something I take scopes, gauges, scan tools, tools in general, locked and loaded 9mm, loaded .44, AR, AK, 12 gauge with 00 buck, combat knife, machete, battle axe, pick handle with spikes in the end, and my "sunny disposition". The kilt and my old desert boots help with the projected image too. I never seem to get a bad deal, but it always seems the police are around.
After racing 2 stroke motorcycles for many years, I know that look well. Especially when I picked up my 4 strokes fuel can instead of my 2 strokes. My bike was flying for a lap and a half. 😢
I once grabbed the wrong fuel can and made several cuts before realizing I had just run my BRAND NEW saw on diesel! I called my saw shop and told them what I had done only to learn there was no harm but good thing it was not gas. The saw ran sluggish and wouldn't have started had it not been all warmed up. (BTW - I only made a few cuts before realizing my error.)
Well all it needs is..... All ya have to do is.... From the people I have met that want things done practically free. It is nice knowing how to do the work on your own then you can say that!
Thanks! I just had an endoscopy at my local hospital to check a duodenal ulcer, it cost me almost $1000! I think I could swallow one of those cameras and do it myself in future - a bit of throat spray to take the edge off, and save me a fortune! Plus I have a camera to poke around in cylinders to boot! Thanks again.
donyboy73 has a video of almost the same thing. Saw ran well till it warmed up. Conditions were similar, great compression. But in addition to the scoring, that piston had a big hole worn in it about half way down the side! Crazy that it even ran.
I am impressed just watching you pull the cord. I get guys all the time that can't get this or that started because they can't pull the cord correctly. Side note I am adding the scope to my tool box. 🙂
yeah...l sold a mculloch saw to a fat guy with asthma....he could barely pull it over....brought it back twice coz his fat ass couldnt start it.....l started it in front of him.l gave him his money back, and sold it to someone who knows what the hell they doin....smh
I figured when I saw the title of this video, that the piston and jug was probably scored to pieces before I watched it. My buddy had his newer Husqvarna top half rebuilt twice in a short amount time due to this. He even used their oil and mixed to their spec. This is why a I always add more oil in the mix instead of factory specs. They want to sell saws. My mix for everything is 32:1...not 50:1. My $0.02.
A good aftermarket kit will cost more than the $100 you paid for the saw. Plus labor for someone else to install it makes it not worth it. Now if you want want to do your own labor and use a super cheap china special kit at $100 you still over paid for the saw. You can buy a new complete ready to go china super deal saw for $100.
@@killer2600 ,I was talking about a scenerio where I did it myself.For an MS 290,I can get a good Nikasil lined cylinder,piston kit for $60 shipped.I've done a few .For a customer getting the work done,and with OEM parts,not such a good deal.
Oh man, so so many people out there selling junk and ripping people off. I learned a long time ago to not buy used saws. Of course I've still made a bad purchase or two but not on used saws lol. It's sad, amazing and also kinda funny, I see vehicles on Marketplace all the time...."great truck, all it needs is an engine" "perfect condition..except it needs brakes, tires, water pump, trans is slipping a little" 😆 As the old saying goes and is more relevant now than ever..."Buyer Beware!" Great video as usual!!!
I saw you have a hone on your wish list and thought I'd share with you a tip, that will help you out in a pinch. Take a phillips screwdriver and put the tip in a drill. Then wrap a rag around the handle, keeping it as wrinkle free as you can. The take a sheet of emery paper or something similar, fold it in half length wise. Wrap it as wrinkle free as you can around the rag. You want it all to be fairly snug when you push it into the cylinder. You can choose what ever grit paper you need for the situation, which is nice. The rest I think you can figure out. I've done it many times on friends mowers and other small engines, when I would check out their machine and find they'd ran it with little or no oil and didn't have the money for a new one. It gets gets them by for a while.
speaking of love. This is the stuff I love since buying over fifty used chainsaws and finding so many conditions of wont start wont idle and wont pull chain through butter . Let alone timber.*- You Rock Chickanic
She is good, there are somethings you can do, if you are are buying any 2 cycle products use this easy check to know if it is seized, grab pull cord let unit go with other hand if the unit slowly or not at all drops it is not seized, the one thing she did wrong never start anything cold and go full throttle rightaway you can cold seize the engine, i owned a dealer ship for 38 years
First, I'm not a mechanic. I googled chainsaw compression and as it happened Stihl U.S.A. was the first entry. Stihl's page states the minimum compression should be 110 psi, so 130 psi doesn't sound too far off... (I really have no idea.) But shouldn't a badly scored cylinder wall contribute more to low compression? Hey; what do I know? Hand me a crescent wrench and I'll use it to crack walnuts... probably a better idea for me than to actually try to work on something with it. Like your channel though.
Reply by @Chickanic Once it warms up it will abruptly go from 130 lbs to 75.. This one was just hanging on by a thread. Brand new saws come 120-140 lbs of compression. If it is under 100 lbs it is too worn out to work on. Thanks for watching!
I think it likely that the compression dropped significantly after the sawed had time to warm up. The cylinder will heat up and increase slightly in size at it does. The rings in the piston are likely seized on the exhaust side and thus can't make the seal to get the needed compression at operating temperature. This, of course, in addition to the scoring that will also cause compression loss.
Wow, that sucks!!!! Sometimes another man's trash is.....another man's trash! Not sure what the cost would be to replace the piston and head, but bet it's way more than the saw's worth. Thanks for sharing with us, and God bless. Rev. D.
We logged for decades. We ran Pioneer forever until they went out of business. We bought a couple Stihl but they didn't last very long. We ended up using Husqvarna and Johnsonred.
Here is a golden rule for you..... If you buy a used saw always consider major rebuild value vs replacement value. We run 30 to 40 saws continuously with our crews.....if the cost of repair is more than 50% of a new replacement, the saw is written off and used as a parts saw. Apply that to your customer. $100 initial cost....add price of rebuild (always price both OEM and aftermarket for best value) is it under or over 50% of new? If under, he didn't get screwed, if over, he now has a parts saw for $100 he can either use for parts or part out and recover investment.......... it's all a matter of perspective. When you get a lemon, what do you make?
I bought a Stihl 056 Super Electronic many years ago. It was a super saw with no problem until it would run for only 10 minutes and stop. In this case it was the electronic coil. Guess what, can no longer get a coil for that saw. I found that others that bought that same model have the same problem. It cost too much to covert the saw to a point/condenser system that might just as well buy a new saw. I have an 041 Farm Boss I bought 39 years ago and it is still running strong. I have recently bought some OME part for the saw like chain sprocket, clutch, bar and chain.
The question is what caused this damage? My thinking is that someone did mix the gas and oil correctly. I've had seven Stihls over the years. I bought my first one, a 030 in 1969. I have three now. I've found if you take care of them, they keep running.
I'm sure if you did a leak down test, the thing would have +30% leakage. Leakage percentage is more important than the raw compression value. Not something someone can do shopping around used units but worth saying. Definitely glad the small inspection cameras was recommended, probably the best pre-purchase inspection tool for anything used with an engine as long as the person using it is well trained on what to look for.
just had the same exact thing happen to my Stihl... running old gas will get the cylinder way too hot and it will score like nobody's business... take- home point: don't run old gas, don't run regular (higher octane burns cooler) and keep after the air filter. thanks for the vid! (this will cost me about three hundred dollars to fix, but a new saw is double that or more, so i chalk it up to expensive education.)
Yeah just bought a ms200t off ebay with supposedly good compression. Bad move. Totally scored and melted piston. Been run with no oil dealer said. No remorse from seller or ebay. Up for new everything now. Totally burnt. Never again. Where do you get hd endoscope from. Love your videos. Jono
Had a MS290 that I bought new, ran it for 5-6 years, cut 7-8 cords of oak every year till I let someone borrow it, and they burned it up, wouldn't even start when I got it back! Bought a new jug and piston, and a little induction tachometer, had the saw running in about an hour, used the tach to set up the carb just right. that was 5 years ago and it's been cutting 7-8 cords every year since, I think I fixed it for about $80 bucks. I'd buy a running 290 any day for a $100 bucks!
Thanks for the great videos! Please give more info on why the equipment has issues. In this case what likely caused the scoring in the cylinder and why the scoring stops the saw during use.
Biggest reason for piston scoring even w/proper oil/gas ratio is just what chicks ice has done in this video is to start cold and run at full rpm without a 60 second idle warm up !
This comment is not really specifically for Chickanic but more so just for those interested in saws, mechanics and such Those (wb)ms290s/029 can get power upgrade cheaply if someone is willing to go non oem and put some work 1-2 hours (if you are someone with a little mechanical knowledge and motivation). the ms390/ engine fits those (both are "clam-shell"/homeowner style engines, and the bodies of the saws are identical. The ms 290 is a 56cc that can get bumped up to a 64cc saw with a non-noticeable difference in weight. 3.8hp to 4.3hp gain... I did this on mine and just kept the old engine as back up, ( have manual impact driver or impact drill for the engine mount bolts and all bolts on this saw are t27 from what I can recall)
For Stihl and other non box store 2 stroke stuff they hold there value so well that it's worth just buying new. I bought the same ms290 new and it was under $400. I cut firewood for primary heat and it looks alot better than that saw by far.
Straight gassed, or ran a tick lean and overheated, there is a crazy thing about so of the newer saws that you can't adjust the mixture screws, and by adding to much oil that seems like it would be good insurance, it actually makes the gas into a thicker volume and doesn't flow as well through the carburator and makes a lean situation that burns down some of the best saws, crazy, stay strong guys
Great video. My saw has the same symptoms with 130 psi and piston doesn’t look that bad through the exhaust port. What should the compression be for Stihl MS311? A piston and cylinder is $150. I mistakenly ran mine too lean.
I think that it's quite likely that the crankseals are shot or some other air leak somewhere. That has caused it to run lean and scored the piston/cylinder (heat etc). I've just rebuilt my MS310, very similar to MS290 just a bit bigger, about 20 years old with this very issue. So based on time it could also help with an idea of the seals condition. Luckily I got mine early and no damage was done. It would run OK however after it warmed up it just would not hold idle well. I was always trying to fiddle with the Carby adjustments but it would just be erratic irregardless of what I did. This is for a saw that has incredibly held tune near on rock solid it's whole life. I know it's only a mid range saw but this thing eats through some very large Australian Ironbark trees with ease. It's all about a reliable saw and a properly sharpened chain. I hope to get another 20 years out of my Stihl if I live long enough!
…I restore old motorcycles…first thing I do is check the cylinders….just because an engine is seized doesn’t necessarily mean “bad”…I’m working on an ‘85 Honda now….seized engine, when I got it turning I started it…no problem….took the top end apart…the cylinders looked new…so, for $1,000, a few parts/gaskets and some sweat equity I got a nice ride…always check the cylinders/pistons before purchase….good video!
If it was that cheap 100.00 hundred dollars, the seller knew what was wrong, don’t know how some people can sleep at night, buyer should have looked further into like you said Chickanic
Tear it down, hoan the cylinder, replace rings, whatcha think? Of course labor would kick it well over 200$. But a couple rings and hoan would make it a good DIY project.
I took the plunge on 2 stroke yesterday after being inspired. I had an auction throw in poulan pro bvm200 blower that I did the carb on. Ran, but not well. Psi = 75. Did your recommendations and looked good, so i took the jug off. I think the jug was loose and leaking. Psi = 100 now. It ran all afternoon today on leaf duty. Thank you
@@DB-zp9un Googling the problem let to to conclude the same thing. I was test fitting the jug and it fixed the problem. I wish I had locklited to bolts, but I want to do that as a final step once I have it right. I have 2 options at this point, wait till it happens again & locktiight then, or just go ahead and tear it back apart and lockitte in now. I may as well do it now, before the problem damages something else. I now believe it WILL happen again vs it might happen again.
@@haneyoakie14 When someone brings one of those units into the shop, first thing I do NOW (after I found this out years ago lol) is just grab the air filter housing and wiggle it... Honestly, I've never torn one down the repair it, I just tell the customer what's going on and that it may or may not fix it.. I tighten them up, and haven't had one yet that didnt fix it.
OK, I am one that got screwed on buying used saw, MS360 Pro. It ran great for several limb cutoffs of a downed tree. Then quit. I decided to add a skill to my tool belt and learn how to rebuild a chainsaw. The old cylinder, rings, and piston where terribly scored. The rings on the exhaust side where worn down even with the piston. Compression was 70 psi. Installed new piston, rings, and cylinder. Compression is not any better at 72 psi. No leaks: did pressure test at the spark plug and carburetor ports, holds steady at 7 psi. Holds steady at 7 mercy vacuum tests at both ports. Did soapy water bubble test on both seals, on cylinder base, and best I could everywhere else. What am I missing? Why the low compression?
Good info here. Obviously, from all your comments everyone is learning and enjoys your program. I'd like to ask anyone out there if they know of a Homelite 290 or 340, which is also made by Solo, model 647 and 654, to sell me? I have three or four of these saws in various states of disrepair. Learned how to work on these back in the late 80s as a rental mechanic. Somehow, I enjoy putting a whole bunch of pieces together and making a running saw. Just a hobby. Junk, blown-up, seized, whatever. I need a couple more of these saws in any condition please.
I have seen 1 other issue, on a saw I owned, I bought used as a teenager, I worked it hard a few years, then it developed a problem, it still worked great if took it easy, but hard use, it might cut off, but if didnt, when you set it down, the gas was boiling hard, smoke was coming out gas cap vent, yes, gas vapor from boiling gas. cylinder looked good, but I traded it in on a brand new reproduction Blue model of the Homelite Super XL, but I didnt use it much, still have that 1, but bought a couple others, that I worked hard, & finally stopped selling firewood. but yeah worn out rings. for side note, I always did, & still buy engine oil by the gallon, & mix it myself in a ratio rite cup, 30+ years doing it this way, & besides a few issues on modern 2 strokes, like clogging muffler screens. or quicker carb adjusting issues, no other problems. weed eaters. leaf blowers, lawn mowers, boat motors, chain saws, always mixed it myself
The last used piece of ICE lawn and garden equipment was a 15 year old tiller with a 5 horse Briggs engine. Changed the coil to pointless and it has started on the first or second pull ever since. BTW, I bought it in 1994.
Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
Saw arrived yesterday ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and today I cut about 3/4 cord of wood with it. Make sure you get an extension chord that is at least 12 gauge wire, minimum. This is my first electric in about 10 years, and things sure have improved. The self-sharpener works great, and it just kept cutting through some pretty decent logs. Wear your eye protection, and ear protection. Excellent saw.
I took one of those Stihl chainsaws out of my neighbor's trash. Used a brake hone on the cylinder & threw in a new piston & rings...Is it perfect??? No, but that was 4 years ago & I am still using it to cut firewood during the season... So worth the $50 bucks I put into it.
HL Supply is a good place to get a piston & cylinder kit . I purchased a kit for less then $ 30 .Depends on the model .
Hi,
I love fixing trashed junk also,
If you use Muriatic acid on the cyl, it eats the scored aluminum but won’t touch the bore liner. 👌
Another trick that needs verification. The cheap homeowner versions of these motors looks to be identical except the piston, which has rings on the 300hr version vs the 50hr homeowner version with them. So in theory you could buy the cheap motor, and swap the piston for far less than the cost of the commercial unit.
Maybe she can verify. There could be different coatings on the cylinder for instance.
Heh heh, one man's trash is a clever man's treasure
Re doing a cycle is not for everyone but it still worth to even have a mechanic do it. I have had a saw one for two hours after dyi cycle my best repair.
WRONG! You hit 37K subscribers because YOU are awesome. If you didn't provide relevant and useful information from an honest perspective, we wouldn't be here. THANKS!!!!!
Aww! Thank you so much for the support!!
You beat me to it bulletproof.
@@Chickanic
That scope tool is sweet!
I could have my wife perform my much needed, over due prostate exam!
It's the type of thing I don't want my dr performing, maybe if he bought me dinner first.
@@Chickanic 372 xp oe rpm ma 13500 ?
Stole my thunder too.
That's amazing it had that much compression with such a destroyed piston and cylinder. I never would have guessed.
Carbon can be a good sealer.
Wow- this video popped up on my feed today, 6-18-22, and I already knew she was past 100k subs, but to go from 37k less than 7 months back-WOW! You are doing something incredibly right! Keep it coming!
I bought a WB-028 new in 1980. It was a great running saw, always started on the second or third pull. I kept it clean, never used the wrong mix, had 11 chains and two bars. Sharpened my own chains, cut a lot of wood. Before I retired, I took it completely apart, replaced all the rubber parts and hoses, clutch, etc. Never let anyone borrow it. Sold it in 2016, sometimes I wish I had it back. Don’t abuse or neglect equipment.
I would let someone use my better half before my saws.
I've got an 024 from that era that works just fine, and I asked the local Stihl dealer if I should replace it with something newer. He said, "No! That's a good saw. Keep it." We've now bought other Stihl equipment from him.
@@raylamp4505 Exactly. Nobody borrows my saw.
@Internally Combustible might be able to work something out. Lol.
@@raylamp4505 I keep an old Poulan Pro around in case someone asks to borrow a saw. That should stop them from ever asking to borrow anything again. 😃
I have a McCulloch PRO MAC 610 which I purchased in 1984, still runs great, with very little maintenance, its a great saw. Always worked on it myself, have cut many a cord of wood, to many to count, and its still going, but my wood cutting day are over, 75 years old now and gave it up, love your videos.
Diagnosis engine was majorly overheated ,,carbon tells me it has lots of hours ,this sort of scarring is caused by A ran way too hot , B someone inserted straight gas in tank ,C running very lean and D overrevving caused by severely dull chain which led to overheating
I just came across your channel and immediately liked what i saw ,,very informative and well explained ,,I clicked LIKE AND Subscribed
i should say i am a 47 yyr old guy with 30+ years experience with small engines ,,i still remember working on lawnmowers with points ignitions
just the look of the plastics and bar tells me it was rode hard and put away wet.
@@kenbrown2808 very true but i learned years ago never judge a book by it's cover cause i have several saws that look just the same and any one of them will start in 3 pulls and run all day ,,I've had my Husqvarna 45 since 1995 and it's on it's 3rd bar , it's been ran over with a truck once ,and just plain looks like junk ,,but i'll match it against any cheap saw from menards any day of the week
@@wildcoyote34 my dad still uses his 024 super. he's also got one from the previous generation, but it's on our saw shop's "fix it when we find a part" rack, because they haven't made parts for it for decades. (the run/stop switch has failed)
@@kenbrown2808 that sucks , i actually like those old saws ,,i have a whole collection of Homelite saws the biggest of them a MONSTER ,, super 1050 , i got it with a 42 inch bar and a 54 inch bar the thing has like 8 horsepower ,,,not a saw you want to swing around much cause it weighs north of 60 pounds with the big bar
@@wildcoyote34 I specifically bought the power head with the best power to weight ratio, and use a 32 inch bar with a semi skip chain, so I can cut stuff on the ground without bending over, but still don't kill it doing full depth cuts.
Smart lady. Thanks for not having a bunch of crappy music in the background while you were talking.
I'm in the tree business...when new ppl get in the biz, one of the first questions they ask is if I use stihl/husky/red max 2 stroke mix or if I just save a bunch of money and use was-mart tech-whatever 2 stroke bc the stihl dealer just wants to make a bunch of money selling 2 stroke mix. 'Many a saw has been slowly burnt up by using cheap 2 stroke oil', I tells 'em. 'Don't do it!'
Very well done. I just found your channel, you showed the real deal right here. Ya gotta look at the cylinder, either use the scope, or pull the muffler. You have done very well here, great video, simple, easy for anyone to follow, and great editing. Never loan your chainsaw, they come back broke, or not at all.
Thank you.
I like the simple test of supporting the weight of the saw by the recoil, especially if I’ve stumbled across a real bargain and I don’t have tools with me.
You and Ron are the reason why you 37K followers. Good and honest people, 37000 people can’t be wrong
Thanks Al!
Good candidate for an aftermarket cylinder head and rebuild kit.
If only we all had a wife like this lady!!
I'd much rather have her as a good friend. Wives tend to be problematic and expensive to maintain and are a bitch to get rid of when they stop working correctly. The after-market value really sucks.
Can she cook and sew and make flowers grow? (Now where have I heard that before?)
I love your no nonsense troubleshooting videos. Very clear and concise information. Much appreciated.
First question I ask is "Can I take the muffler off?"
If the seller takes the conversation to a different point, I'll just listen to him politely and then thank him for his time.
That chainsaw was worth 100 bucks tho.
Sure was worth 100
Always remove the muffler, 99% of the time, a piston will scuff on the exhaust side.(I've only seen one scuff on the carb side) It only takes about 5 minutes to remove and replace a muffler.
Extremely helpful! I have an old wood chipper that was running very poorly after sitting idle for several years. Took it to a small engine shop and they said no compression, not worth trying to fix. Then a very knowledgeable friend said the rings might just be stuck.
I'm going to get an endoscope, take a look and see what's really going on.
Great advice.
Pour a bunch of oil in there and let it sit for a while. SLOWLY turn the motor over once in a while and see if it comes unstuck.
Worked on saws for years. That one has been lean likely due to improper fuel mix or cheap oil. It was way lean when she ran it. Put a jug kit on it and it will be like new. Takes about 30 min to swap cylinder/piston assembly. Use a true 50:1 mix with only Stihl oil. 2.6oz/ gal or 5.2oz for 2 gal. Don’t mix more than you can use in a month or so and let the saw warm up before revving or loading. I’ve had my FS76 trimmer for 20+ years. 2 pull start and runs perfect. Happy cutting
Mark T Yeah, but "jug kits" are expensive.
Pro arborist here. "Cheap" oil would not do anything like that to a cylinder. The saw was likely run with straight gas/no oil mix. Mixed gas lasts much longer than a month, especially if the mix contains a stabilizer. No need to warm the saw up before cutting. Stihl oil is a waste of money. I have saws 20 and 30 years old, always run with "cheap' oil, and they still have original ring, cylinder and power.
@@jamese9283 No need to warm the saw up? Ya think redlining a cold engine is a good idea?
James,
You're right. I am a professional landscaper/lawn care operation. Used to do tree work. If we waited to warm up equipment before we used it, we'd never get anything done...
@@POOKIE5592 You can treat your chainsaw like the space shuttle if you have time to waste, but those of us who use saws at work don't do unnecessary procedures. A chainsaw is a simple engine with only a few moving parts. Automobiles have complex engines with dozens of oil channels that need to be warmed and filled before stressing the engine. Chainsaws can be put right to work immediately after starting, as soon as the engine is revving smoothly. The only indications in any manual are to not redline for more than a few seconds, and to warm the saw up briefly if the air temperature is far below freezing, which is only to get consistent burn inside the cylinder. I regularly redline my saws after a cold start to see if they are running smoothly, and then dive right into the wood. They have lasted 20+ years.
Grab it by the starter handle and lift it off the ground. If the cord doesn't unwind you can be more certain compression is reasonable. Always pull the muffler if it's being sold as a runner.
Excellent video!!! You know, Dony-boy also preaches that gospal, take that muffler off, and take a look. If the seller won't let you do that, don't buy it. Excellent PSA, it was very much needed! Your amazing Chickanic, we appreciate you!
Cutest chik in small engine repair
I understand that the guy spent 100.00 on the saw and it has a scored cylinder and piston, but I would still keep it and go to eBay or Amazon and purchase a new cylinder and piston combo with a new cylinder gasket. In about two hours and an additional 30.00 to 50.00 dollars he would have a like new saw again. I found a Stihl MS 210 at a GoodWill Store and paid 7.99 for it, got home and purchased some parts from eBay for around 80.00 bucks and it looks and runs just like a new saw. So he should
put a little effort into it and for 200.00 less than a new one he would have a really nice slightly used new saw.
30 to 50 dollars went to 80 dollars and then 200 dollars.
Well, homieshenna. If you would read what I wrote and try to understand it you would realize I said if the person who had her work on the saw had put 30.00 to 50.00 bucks on a new cylinder and piston, and a cylinder and piston combo for that saw is less than 50.00, he would have a great saw for 200.00 less than the cost of buying a new saw. Hope this helps you to understand!
Yeah there are so many parts supplier out there that if you willing to do a little homework and find the numbers you can get the same part online for way less the then dealer. A lot of them have the manufacture part number listed with their part. I needed a carb for a stihl weed eater. Dealer wanted $100 for it. I spend 20 minutes looking up the part and got the carb for $10. Same carb only thing is it didn't say stihl on it. All the makers are buying their parts from other places you just to take the time to find them.
New top end in parts is cheaper then plastic handle and trigger assembly. Inspect the aftermarket heads the can have some pretty mean burs on the ports but nothing some light honing can't fix.
The 390 top end fits. They do awesome with a bit of timing, base gasket delete and muffler mod
Someone was skimping on the 2 stroke oil. Maybe forgot it all together. Muffler is usually caked with black shar/goo if too much oil is mixed in. This exhaust port looked pretty clean.
I have learned so much about small motors and equipment to diagnose the motor.
Love Your Videos.
Great Job!!!!!!!
Oh don't you worry. When I go to buy something I take scopes, gauges, scan tools, tools in general, locked and loaded 9mm, loaded .44, AR, AK, 12 gauge with 00 buck, combat knife, machete, battle axe, pick handle with spikes in the end, and my "sunny disposition". The kilt and my old desert boots help with the projected image too. I never seem to get a bad deal, but it always seems the police are around.
LOL!!
Lol! Nice to see a person with a similar sense of humor! Even if it is a 6th sense kinda sense....
and a year later you have 202,000 subscribers . great growth.
U should make a video on what to do when purchasing used equipment. All the steps u would take to see if it’s worth buying.
After racing 2 stroke motorcycles for many years, I know that look well.
Especially when I picked up my 4 strokes fuel can instead of my 2 strokes.
My bike was flying for a lap and a half.
😢
I once grabbed the wrong fuel can and made several cuts before realizing I had just run my BRAND NEW saw on diesel! I called my saw shop and told them what I had done only to learn there was no harm but good thing it was not gas. The saw ran sluggish and wouldn't have started had it not been all warmed up. (BTW - I only made a few cuts before realizing my error.)
Well all it needs is..... All ya have to do is.... From the people I have met that want things done practically free. It is nice knowing how to do the work on your own then you can say that!
Paintnamer I've heard that too.
I like to ask,well, if that's all you have to do then why don't you do it?
Thanks! I just had an endoscopy at my local hospital to check a duodenal ulcer, it cost me almost $1000! I think I could swallow one of those cameras and do it myself in future - a bit of throat spray to take the edge off, and save me a fortune! Plus I have a camera to poke around in cylinders to boot! Thanks again.
Stihl is the best chain saw ever.. Mine is 27 years old and still starts on first pull.
donyboy73 has a video of almost the same thing. Saw ran well till it warmed up. Conditions were similar, great compression. But in addition to the scoring, that piston had a big hole worn in it about half way down the side! Crazy that it even ran.
I am impressed just watching you pull the cord. I get guys all the time that can't get this or that started because they can't pull the cord correctly. Side note I am adding the scope to my tool box. 🙂
yeah...l sold a mculloch saw to a fat guy with asthma....he could barely pull it over....brought it back twice coz his fat ass couldnt start it.....l started it in front of him.l gave him his money back, and sold it to someone who knows what the hell they doin....smh
@@woodlanegardenequipmentrep9149 you said exactly what I was being too polite to say! LOL
I figured when I saw the title of this video, that the piston and jug was probably scored to pieces before I watched it. My buddy had his newer Husqvarna top half rebuilt twice in a short amount time due to this. He even used their oil and mixed to their spec. This is why a I always add more oil in the mix instead of factory specs. They want to sell saws. My mix for everything is 32:1...not 50:1. My $0.02.
Well done Chickfantastic
37000 Congratulations.
That is awesome.
I would have bought it for $100,and just thrown in a new cylinder and piston :) Great advice to anyone buying a used saw!
That's what I was thinking. What would a cylinder and piston cost installed, off the top of your head?
A good aftermarket kit will cost more than the $100 you paid for the saw. Plus labor for someone else to install it makes it not worth it. Now if you want want to do your own labor and use a super cheap china special kit at $100 you still over paid for the saw. You can buy a new complete ready to go china super deal saw for $100.
@@killer2600 ,I was talking about a scenerio where I did it myself.For an MS 290,I can get a good Nikasil lined cylinder,piston kit for $60 shipped.I've done a few .For a customer getting the work done,and with OEM parts,not such a good deal.
@@ryanbruner8928 To you and Killer, what would a new Stihl comparable to this cost? 6, maybe 7 hundred?
@@John-gj1jr 44 bucks with free shipping
I'm not the biggest fan of the 290, but now he's got the perfect candidate to learn on! Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose with cheap equipment.
i lost roughly 600 bucs my stihl died onits second tree
Oh man, so so many people out there selling junk and ripping people off. I learned a long time ago to not buy used saws. Of course I've still made a bad purchase or two but not on used saws lol. It's sad, amazing and also kinda funny, I see vehicles on Marketplace all the time...."great truck, all it needs is an engine" "perfect condition..except it needs brakes, tires, water pump, trans is slipping a little" 😆 As the old saying goes and is more relevant now than ever..."Buyer Beware!" Great video as usual!!!
with all the cylinder and piston scoring I am surprised it registered such a good compression number
It is because it is a STIHL!!!
I saw you have a hone on your wish list and thought I'd share with you a tip, that will help you out in a pinch. Take a phillips screwdriver and put the tip in a drill. Then wrap a rag around the handle, keeping it as wrinkle free as you can. The take a sheet of emery paper or something similar, fold it in half length wise. Wrap it as wrinkle free as you can around the rag. You want it all to be fairly snug when you push it into the cylinder. You can choose what ever grit paper you need for the situation, which is nice. The rest I think you can figure out. I've done it many times on friends mowers and other small engines, when I would check out their machine and find they'd ran it with little or no oil and didn't have the money for a new one. It gets gets them by for a while.
I always pull the muffler to inspect the piston for scoring. Probably ran straight gas without oil mixed.
speaking of love. This is the stuff I love since buying over fifty used chainsaws and finding so many conditions of wont start wont idle and wont pull chain through butter . Let alone timber.*- You Rock Chickanic
She is good, there are somethings you can do, if you are are buying any 2 cycle products use this easy check to know if it is seized, grab pull cord let unit go with other hand if the unit slowly or not at all drops it is not seized, the one thing she did wrong never start anything cold and go full throttle rightaway you can cold seize the engine, i owned a dealer ship for 38 years
First, I'm not a mechanic. I googled chainsaw compression and as it happened Stihl U.S.A. was the first entry. Stihl's page states the minimum compression should be 110 psi, so 130 psi doesn't sound too far off... (I really have no idea.)
But shouldn't a badly scored cylinder wall contribute more to low compression?
Hey; what do I know? Hand me a crescent wrench and I'll use it to crack walnuts... probably a better idea for me than to actually try to work on something with it.
Like your channel though.
Reply by @Chickanic
Once it warms up it will abruptly go from 130 lbs to 75.. This one was just hanging on by a thread.
Brand new saws come 120-140 lbs of compression. If it is under 100 lbs it is too worn out to work on. Thanks for watching!
I think it likely that the compression dropped significantly after the sawed had time to warm up. The cylinder will heat up and increase slightly in size at it does. The rings in the piston are likely seized on the exhaust side and thus can't make the seal to get the needed compression at operating temperature. This, of course, in addition to the scoring that will also cause compression loss.
Wow, that sucks!!!! Sometimes another man's trash is.....another man's trash! Not sure what the cost would be to replace the piston and head, but bet it's way more than the saw's worth. Thanks for sharing with us, and God bless. Rev. D.
You can get a complete rebuild kit on eBay for about $50.00(piston,new cylinder,etc…)much cheaper than a new Stihl chain saw, & worth a whole lot more
Defo running lean. New pot and piston, then use proper mixture. Love your channel. 👍🇬🇧
I watch and find new tools I “need”. Lol. Thanks, I learned something today. Super cool!
Your wife is gonna run you off with a stick Iffin’ you keep buying tools!
@@oldmanfred8676 I fund tools with lawnmower flip dollars. Otherwise, I would get in trouble.
@@haneyoakie14,
You never heard of OUR MONEY is MY MONEY, from your sweetie pie? Of course her money is her money!
@@oldmanfred8676 yep. Ain’t Love Grand?
@@haneyoakie14,
Laughing😊. you know it Brother!
Thanks to all the manufacturers not creating lifelong machines, so that we have the pleasure to watch your exciting channel 👍👍
We logged for decades. We ran Pioneer forever until they went out of business. We bought a couple Stihl but they didn't last very long. We ended up using Husqvarna and Johnsonred.
I need my own sweet Chickanic, one who can fix and start a big stihl and to share thy fruits of thy labors. Just a dream isn't it !
Gotta say something now--I've learned at least two things I didn't know before. Already subscribed....these videos are outstanding!
Very helpful, I'll keep this in mind when I by equipment..
Great advice, thanks
Thanks for the info about the crosshatching, vertical wear lines, etc., in the cylinder. New to me, and I'm sure others.
Here is a golden rule for you.....
If you buy a used saw always consider major rebuild value vs replacement value.
We run 30 to 40 saws continuously with our crews.....if the cost of repair is more than 50% of a new replacement, the saw is written off and used as a parts saw.
Apply that to your customer. $100 initial cost....add price of rebuild (always price both OEM and aftermarket for best value) is it under or over 50% of new? If under, he didn't get screwed, if over, he now has a parts saw for $100 he can either use for parts or part out and recover investment.......... it's all a matter of perspective. When you get a lemon, what do you make?
You are so good at what you do!!!
I would love to see a piston & ring replacement. Haven't seen any piston or cylinder jobs since the early 70's on big block V8's and small block Chevy
I bought a Stihl 056 Super Electronic many years ago. It was a super saw with no problem until it would run for only 10 minutes and stop. In this case it was the electronic coil. Guess what, can no longer get a coil for that saw. I found that others that bought that same model have the same problem. It cost too much to covert the saw to a point/condenser system that might just as well buy a new saw. I have an 041 Farm Boss I bought 39 years ago and it is still running strong. I have recently bought some OME part for the saw like chain sprocket, clutch, bar and chain.
Great info, Thanks !
The question is what caused this damage? My thinking is that someone did mix the gas and oil correctly. I've had seven Stihls over the years. I bought my first one, a 030 in 1969. I have three now. I've found if you take care of them, they keep running.
Great advice!
Great video. Thanks
I'm sure if you did a leak down test, the thing would have +30% leakage. Leakage percentage is more important than the raw compression value.
Not something someone can do shopping around used units but worth saying.
Definitely glad the small inspection cameras was recommended, probably the best pre-purchase inspection tool for anything used with an engine as long as the person using it is well trained on what to look for.
I bought one of those scopes when I seen you use it in the first video . That little scope is off the charts cool . It has come in handy a lot !!
You can get a after market kit ( piston and cylinder) and turn it into a MS 390.
Exactly
Congrats on hitting 37K 👍
just had the same exact thing happen to my Stihl... running old gas will get the cylinder way too hot and it will score like nobody's business... take- home point: don't run old gas, don't run regular (higher octane burns cooler) and keep after the air filter. thanks for the vid! (this will cost me about three hundred dollars to fix, but a new saw is double that or more, so i chalk it up to expensive education.)
Yeah just bought a ms200t off ebay with supposedly good compression. Bad move. Totally scored and melted piston. Been run with no oil dealer said. No remorse from seller or ebay. Up for new everything now. Totally burnt. Never again. Where do you get hd endoscope from.
Love your videos.
Jono
I think your tutorial,s are great keep up the fantastic videos.
It's rebuildable. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me. It is appreciated.
Had a MS290 that I bought new, ran it for 5-6 years, cut 7-8 cords of oak every year till I let someone borrow it, and they burned it up, wouldn't even start when I got it back! Bought a new jug and piston, and a little induction tachometer, had the saw running in about an hour, used the tach to set up the carb just right. that was 5 years ago and it's been cutting 7-8 cords every year since, I think I fixed it for about $80 bucks. I'd buy a running 290 any day for a $100 bucks!
Wow - That thing had to be run without oil. Never see one grooved that bad . Surprised it ran that well and had that much compression !
What happens when you put too big of bar on it.
Thanks for the great videos! Please give more info on why the equipment has issues. In this case what likely caused the scoring in the cylinder and why the scoring stops the saw during use.
Biggest reason for piston scoring even w/proper oil/gas ratio is just what chicks ice has done in this video is to start cold and run at full rpm without a 60 second idle warm up !
This comment is not really specifically for Chickanic but more so just for those interested in saws, mechanics and such
Those (wb)ms290s/029 can get power upgrade cheaply if someone is willing to go non oem and put some work 1-2 hours (if you are someone with a little mechanical knowledge and motivation). the ms390/ engine fits those (both are "clam-shell"/homeowner style engines, and the bodies of the saws are identical. The ms 290 is a 56cc that can get bumped up to a 64cc saw with a non-noticeable difference in weight. 3.8hp to 4.3hp gain... I did this on mine and just kept the old engine as back up, ( have manual impact driver or impact drill for the engine mount bolts and all bolts on this saw are t27 from what I can recall)
Congratulations on the 37,000 subscribers! I’m wearing my Chickanic T-Shirt.
Awesome! Thank you!
For Stihl and other non box store 2 stroke stuff they hold there value so well that it's worth just buying new. I bought the same ms290 new and it was under $400. I cut firewood for primary heat and it looks alot better than that saw by far.
Straight gassed, or ran a tick lean and overheated, there is a crazy thing about so of the newer saws that you can't adjust the mixture screws, and by adding to much oil that seems like it would be good insurance, it actually makes the gas into a thicker volume and doesn't flow as well through the carburator and makes a lean situation that burns down some of the best saws, crazy, stay strong guys
Great video. My saw has the same symptoms with 130 psi and piston doesn’t look that bad through the exhaust port. What should the compression be for Stihl MS311? A piston and cylinder is $150. I mistakenly ran mine too lean.
Did that to A chain saw many years ago, garbed the wrong fuel tin going out the door, it was a 4 stroke for the lawn mower.
I think that it's quite likely that the crankseals are shot or some other air leak somewhere. That has caused it to run lean and scored the piston/cylinder (heat etc). I've just rebuilt my MS310, very similar to MS290 just a bit bigger, about 20 years old with this very issue. So based on time it could also help with an idea of the seals condition. Luckily I got mine early and no damage was done. It would run OK however after it warmed up it just would not hold idle well. I was always trying to fiddle with the Carby adjustments but it would just be erratic irregardless of what I did. This is for a saw that has incredibly held tune near on rock solid it's whole life. I know it's only a mid range saw but this thing eats through some very large Australian Ironbark trees with ease. It's all about a reliable saw and a properly sharpened chain. I hope to get another 20 years out of my Stihl if I live long enough!
I’m learning a lot from your videos on small engines! Keep up the good work! 👍🏼
Thank you!
@@Chickanic hey, what caused these damages on the cylinder?
…I restore old motorcycles…first thing I do is check the cylinders….just because an engine is seized doesn’t necessarily mean “bad”…I’m working on an ‘85 Honda now….seized engine, when I got it turning I started it…no problem….took the top end apart…the cylinders looked new…so, for $1,000, a few parts/gaskets and some sweat equity I got a nice ride…always check the cylinders/pistons before purchase….good video!
If it was that cheap 100.00 hundred dollars, the seller knew what was wrong, don’t know how some people can sleep at night, buyer should have looked further into like you said Chickanic
Thanks for sharung your knowledge with us
Tear it down, hoan the cylinder, replace rings, whatcha think?
Of course labor would kick it well over 200$. But a couple rings and hoan would make it a good DIY project.
Not likely, parts of the piston were embedded in the cylinder wall
Great video and learned much from your past video's!God bless!
I took the plunge on 2 stroke yesterday after being inspired. I had an auction throw in poulan pro bvm200 blower that I did the carb on. Ran, but not well. Psi = 75. Did your recommendations and looked good, so i took the jug off. I think the jug was loose and leaking. Psi = 100 now. It ran all afternoon today on leaf duty. Thank you
The ones that only have 2 cylinder screws? Yea, that happens a LOT on that style..
@@DB-zp9un Googling the problem let to to conclude the same thing. I was test fitting the jug and it fixed the problem. I wish I had locklited to bolts, but I want to do that as a final step once I have it right. I have 2 options at this point, wait till it happens again & locktiight then, or just go ahead and tear it back apart and lockitte in now. I may as well do it now, before the problem damages something else. I now believe it WILL happen again vs it might happen again.
@@haneyoakie14 When someone brings one of those units into the shop, first thing I do NOW (after I found this out years ago lol) is just grab the air filter housing and wiggle it... Honestly, I've never torn one down the repair it, I just tell the customer what's going on and that it may or may not fix it.. I tighten them up, and haven't had one yet that didnt fix it.
@@DB-zp9un those screws are hard to reach with tools I have. I need to get some screwdriver type Allan wrenchs.
OK, I am one that got screwed on buying used saw, MS360 Pro. It ran great for several limb cutoffs of a downed tree. Then quit. I decided to add a skill to my tool belt and learn how to rebuild a chainsaw. The old cylinder, rings, and piston where terribly scored. The rings on the exhaust side where worn down even with the piston. Compression was 70 psi. Installed new piston, rings, and cylinder. Compression is not any better at 72 psi. No leaks: did pressure test at the spark plug and carburetor ports, holds steady at 7 psi. Holds steady at 7 mercy vacuum tests at both ports. Did soapy water bubble test on both seals, on cylinder base, and best I could everywhere else. What am I missing? Why the low compression?
I had a 028 best saw I ever had ,should have never let it go.
Good info here. Obviously, from all your comments everyone is learning and enjoys your program. I'd like to ask anyone out there if they know of a Homelite 290 or 340, which is also made by Solo, model 647 and 654, to sell me? I have three or four of these saws in various states of disrepair. Learned how to work on these back in the late 80s as a rental mechanic. Somehow, I enjoy putting a whole bunch of pieces together and making a running saw. Just a hobby. Junk, blown-up, seized, whatever. I need a couple more of these saws in any condition please.
Always learn something new from your channel. Helpful video.
Thanks
I have had similar issues with machines that have coming into my garage (my hobby small engine shop). Totally makes sense,.
Hello, Would have been interesting to compare the inside of a used chainsaw but that works well! Thanks for the video
Very helpful for more than one reason. COOL!
I have seen 1 other issue, on a saw I owned, I bought used as a teenager, I worked it hard a few years, then it developed a problem, it still worked great if took it easy, but hard use, it might cut off, but if didnt, when you set it down, the gas was boiling hard, smoke was coming out gas cap vent, yes, gas vapor from boiling gas.
cylinder looked good, but I traded it in on a brand new reproduction Blue model of the Homelite Super XL, but I didnt use it much, still have that 1, but bought a couple others, that I worked hard, & finally stopped selling firewood. but yeah worn out rings.
for side note, I always did, & still buy engine oil by the gallon, & mix it myself in a ratio rite cup, 30+ years doing it this way, & besides a few issues on modern 2 strokes, like clogging muffler screens. or quicker carb adjusting issues, no other problems. weed eaters. leaf blowers, lawn mowers, boat motors, chain saws, always mixed it myself
The last used piece of ICE lawn and garden equipment was a 15 year old tiller with a 5 horse Briggs engine. Changed the coil to pointless and it has started on the first or second pull ever since. BTW, I bought it in 1994.
Congratulations on 37,000 subscribers 😀
Greats tips for inspecting a used piece of equipment.