Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
OK! So You are the only "small engine" specialist I now have in my computer that I feel confident in going to for advice and help. I just feel that there's no BS when I watch your channel. You say it the way it is and every time I've done it your way it's been right. So Thank You for sharing your thoughts and knowledge on this channel and I will continue to follow you so I can get it right the first time.
im glad i clicked on this one before messing with the carburetor!! My idle was high and chain was spinning (could cut 3-4 inches into a log in idle) All the other videos kept saying my clutch was going out (no, brand spanking new, never seen gas before) others said the low end carb screw needed to be adjusted. She said to adjust the idle screw, and that was it!! no messing with the carb, nice!!
This is the most professional tutorial for proper carburetor adjustment of a two-stroke engine in a chainsaw ever found on the Internet. Even at my local Husqvarna service center, they wouldn't put that kind of effort into their work. These slackers set the carburetors on customers' chainsaws "by ear".... While setting slow revs by ear (L screw) will not harm the engine, setting high revs by ear (H screw) risks seizing the engine by exceeding the safe speed (e.g. 13000 rpm on most Husqvarna saws), at best they will set the high revs too low (e.g. 11000 or 12000 instead of 13000 rpm) and the saw will be less efficient. Thanks for your work. Greetings from Poland.
I so agree with all of this. The question to ask yourself is when you want to adjust the carb is why... If it ran right last time and all you did was leave it sit, the carb didn't adjust it self so something has to have changed and Chickanic gives the reasons. That being said I every day carry the Poulan carb tool in my small belt tool pouch. 😉
I've always tuned by ear just the way you showed with the tacho, it's important to keep in mind that if you must make an adjustment keep on the rich side as lean mix means high fuel burn temp which equates to melted piston and huge bill.
Most carburetors, turn left to richen doesn't take much. After it hit maximum RPM back off until it starts losing RPM the extra fuel will help from having a lean mixture
How Huge bill ?? a Second hand whipper is gonna be $80 - $120 and if you want to go for something better, say up to $200 how would you ever get a huge bill, even if the piston did melt ? and entire crankcase and piston is like $40 - $50
@@Chickanic I turn screws far more than you do because dirt and coagulated fuel gets stuck in the screws often and can often be cleared by moving screws back and forth and then returning them to where they were. The trick is to mark or write down where they were so that you always have that option, and I don't trust that to memory. Also, clearing dirt cans often be done within the range of the limiter caps, so they often don't need to be removed.
Your advice on finding the “root cause” on why your carb might need adjusted is the best I’ve heard. Like you said most people are trying to tune around an issue. When you buy from a dealer they will tune it for you from new and after it breaks in if needed. Yet another reason to support a local dealer.
Spot on .....Andy ....I find more mistakes are made by people dedicated to results only to suffer from avoidable repercussions . I even advocate that proper vac and pressure testing should always be preformed on equipment before reaching for the nearest adjusting screwdriver.
Sadly / i have found this young lady still dosent pressure or vac test the equipment.....Well lets just say we havent seen the testing tools required rather ......I find this troubling for many reasons that i made evident in a prior comment with regards to a Poulan Chainsaw . But to reiterate if proper vac and pressure testing isnt preformed you can inadvertently cause more damage by forcing a determined result . Note replacing diaphrams / Kits are ideal but keep in mind not all kits include the check valves that often swell or distort that most mech /techs are certainly aware of ........there for .....hints once again the reason of why pressure and vac test equipment is so imperative . I dont mean to seem as if I am a Troll ....And to be honest I think she has amazing talent ....But viewers should be aware that kits and fuel lines are only a small fraction of fuel related issues ....Now with that being said she did advocate making OEM purchases over aftermarket .....And that in its self is very sound advice ....NOW ON TO A MORE POSITIVE NOTE .....I was pleased to know/see she used a tachometer on the Chainsaw I just hope to see a future video of her showing proper vac and pressure testing on not only a chainsaw but the carb and tank vent. Perhaps show leaking seals around crankshafts , impulse lines ,intake boots or insulators .......I mean her talent is there ......My question is simply why havent we seen her use the equipment required to properly vac and pressure test theses chainsaws as they are basic in this line of work ? And respectfully she advocates she works on many two cycle pieces of equipment ......{Strange} ......Seriously just perplexing for lack of a better word .
@@kevinbolin7665 I think you must have missed it, but she did mention checking the cylinder compression with a gauge while going through the case study and demo of the large chainsaw in the video. It's always good to have all the proper tools, and thanks for reminding me of the value of a compression tester. I'll probably have to invest in one in the future for my repair endeavors.
I always set my mixtures by reading the spark plugs. Same as in my old cars. I never knew you were supposed to adjust the idle mix the way you do. I just set in the middle of both drop off points, same as a car, then adjust the idle screw to an rpm that is low enough to just stop the chain from rotating. After I cut wood for a while I will pull the plug and if it is bright and clean, I’m running to lean. If it’s black and sooty, I’m too rich. As far as high goes I find the high point and then back off until the saw starts dieseling. I’ve never used a tach. Luckily I haven’t burned up a saw yet. I’ll buy one and start using your method. Thank you.
I have a line trimmer that from day one that I bought it from the big box store 3 years ago it would not idle, it would not stay running during the time I was using it. I got the adjusting tools and this year I turned the adjusters a couple turns, and it's a different machine. I can't wait to use it now. It has become a joy to use. Well mostly, lol.
I stared using non ethanol fuel in all my small engines about 3 years ago, and have had great luck. I also use an additive every end of season and actually will do a couple cold starts every winter. Great advice! Great video!
I use ethanol free premium, and have no problems at all. of course, my season never really ends, but I'll have gas sitting in the can for months at a time.
Non ethanol fuel has solved virtually all problems with all my small engines. An opened bottle of ethanol fuel will absorb water from ambient air in an hour or even less. It becomes cloudy with water.
I'm 80. All my two-cycle stuff is very old. Like 10 or 20 years. What she says is true about warm up and getting it running after sitting over winter. When I was running a lawn service in Florida, didn't have that problem because you're running your stuff all the time. In Florida gas would go bad all the time it's too hot. So if your stuff wouldn't run you know get some new mix. Up here on North Carolina gas goes bad over winter. Dump it and put in new mix. I never heard of a tachometer for two cycles, I guess I'll have to get one cuz what she says is true, too high of an RPM you'll burn up your engine.
I love the demonstration! I have watched and read way too many how to's and this is by FAR the BEST! Not to mentions you are WAY better looking than a lot of RUclipsr's. Thank you for this video and please keep up the awesome work/videos.
GREAT instructional video!! CLEAR, CONCISE, & DETAILED!! Fwiw, I wasted about an hours worth of time watching 2 other "instructional" video's, that were about as "useful" as a screen door on a submarine!! One, wasted 20 minutes of my time, by "summing up" his "presentation" with; "They're junk (re Poulan Chainsaws), so just throw them in the garbage..." The other "gem" had me watching the guy turning screws (H/L and Idle Screw) but giving ZERO DETAILS re what he was doing!! THANK YOU, Bre, for this OUTSTANDING & INFORMATIVE TUTORIAL!! - - Thanks to your instructions, my ("Piece of Junk") Poulan Pro 42 cc Chainsaw is running GREAT!! Btw, Bre... Arkansas is "On our Radar" as 1 of 4 states we're looking at moving to, in order to escape this "Socialist Paradise", aka Komie-Fornia. Currently, 4 families that we knew here have moved there, and they are all LOVING their FREEDOM back your way!!
Wow, very timely that this should appear in my recommended videos today. I got a new Stihl MS291, and it threw a hissy fit the first time I tried to start it. Started right away- then died after 30 secs, and refused to even try again. Then I flooded it, and discovered I'd neglected to bring any tools with me... So I gave up on it for that day, and used my other one. Next weekend, I pull the plug and clean it off- then give the rope a couple of pulls to clean out the cylinder, and reassembled. The bugger started right up! And quit. Restarted in run with one pull. I had to hold it, and feather the throttle now and then to keep it running, until it warmed up. After that, it became an absolute beast! After cutting all the big rounds I cared to lift into my truck, I let it sit and idle a bit before shutting it off. (If this is brand new, I can't wait to see what it becomes when broken in!) I was wondering if maybe I should nudge the low idle up a bit, so it stays running without help as it warms up, but you've convinced me otherwise. I was VERY happy with how it ran once warmed up a bit, so I think I'll leave it alone! Also, two thumbs way up for manufacturers adding vibration reducing systems to saws. Dad's old McCullochs vibrated so hard, they'd leave your hands all tingly and puffy feeling. Not at all pleasant. They were so hard to start every time firewood cutting time came around, that I learned all kinds of interesting words, and was put off gas saws for decades... This 55cc saw here, doesn't vibrate much at all. You could tell it was running and cutting, but it didn't make you PAY for using it, like those old things did.
I had that aha moment when I finally understood the principles of how this works. It happened while watching your Stihl adjustment video, which is done in slightly different order, but in the end the techniques are more similar than different. For people coming along you want to remember a few principles. You want it on the verge of running rich, since lean combustion leads to the deadly combination of extra heat and inadequate lubrication. Turning the ticker screw CW will open the idle throttle stop to increase idle fuel delivery. Likewise turning either L or H CCW will also give more fuel. You first adjust L to get a peak stoichiometric idle rpm, then you increase L more to bring idle back to desired baseline to produce a safety cushion of extra lubrication and fuel. The L jet opening is at the point of fastest air flow at idle, right beside the throttle butterfly. When L is adjusted correctly, snap throttle gives a brisk rpm response. When the throttle is open, the H jet is positioned upstream at a second point of fastest air flow (lowest Bernoulli pressure). All of these factors are fine print compared to big problems of air flow restriction such as a dirty air filter or clogged spark arrestor. So, fix those first.
I done my major small engine repair business back in the 70's and yes! Personally I'm done been experiencing only one major problem, being nothing but today's gas!
Non ethanol gas has solved all my carb and fuel line problems. Had a new Stihl saw that stalled at idle. Finally tweaked the carb about 1/8 turn and ran fine. Thanks
Thank you for this awesome and very informative video. You are a GREAT teacher! You explain things in a way so it is easy to understand and learn from. This is clearly the BEST chainsaw tuning video out there! I have a FarmerTec Holzfforma MS660 Stihl Clone that has been very difficult to tune. I think I will finally get it dialed in after watching your video. Again, thank you!
Great Video. Your procedure to adjust the 2 cycle carbs was great and well received. I own a farm property with several 2 cycle engines that occasionally require adjustment. This will make life easier. Thanks
I do all my heating with wood. I bought a used CS4600 for $125, 12 years ago and it is my main saw. I have never done anything to it but clean and sharpen it. Still my best saw! Old Echos are the best. I'm always looking for them. Thank you Bre, I just want to say "I love girl"! Hubby, what a Blessed Man you ARE!!! HAHAHAHA May God Bless you BOTH! Daily!!!
Another great video. I love how you explain your troubleshooting and adjustment processes. Thanks for running through the different types of manufacturers and carburetors. Definitely going to purchase an engine tachometer after watching this video (sorry honey, just one more tool....).
This helps. I just rebuilt a well used Stihl MS 361, and the previous owner definitely didn’t know what they were doing because it runs like crap. Ordered a tach, and I’ll adjust this weekend.
We do business with a guy north of Dover. Mountain Enterprises and he does us a great job . Good info and great politics lol. Bought a huge echo string trimmer.and it is a beast. Love to glean info from your great show.
Superb,educational videp. I bought the needle valve screwdriver assortment. I was impressed,they work great! Need a video on fuel line sizes and selection and the tricks of the trade installing and routing the lines.
I really like the in depth explanation of everything. I've always done it by ear and while that has worked for me, I don't do this for a living. If I were doing it for a bunch of other people, I'd want to get the tacho and do it the official way for sure. You did a great job explaining everything. Nicely done.
You have a great channel. Often people try to tune the carb on a poor running machine when it’s actually an air leak. Please do a video on detecting and fixing this problem.
This was one of the best videos. This is one of the biggest issues I have, and know I have a good understanding on how to adjust chainsaws with the tester. Thank you so much. Oh I just started my online Penn forster course for small engine repair and because of your videos you put out I have a good understanding on alot so I know this course will be so much easier to understand and learn and pass. So again thank you so much bre. Your awesome
My dad , rip , he always said , a little knowledge is a dangerous thing . I will try the choke on and off thing, great advice. I always drain my fuel at the end of season or when it wont start...but i know when im over my head, i never mess with fuel mixture. Off to the shop i go
These rules are made by people that are not elected, they are hired. Maybe educated (?), maybe related to the boss. These rules are not laws! How do they get away with it? One EPA inspector made my BIL pay $40,000 PER Quarter, to continue using stuff HE said was a pollutant! Hypocrite!!!!!!!!!!!!! If it was that serious a pollutant, it should have been discontinued, not 'pay to pollute'!! I've many more complaints about EPA, but if I started on them, I'd seem as big an idiot as they ARE!!
Thank you, If I hadn't listened to your thing about Trufuel, changing fuel to improve, fix bogging or no starts, I would probably still be taking apart my carb for the umteenth time without going thru the checks you pointed out. As it turns out, the reg fuel mix I use (Shell 97 octane + 50:1 oil) was bogging my Redmax bush cutter, then I took your suggestion to change the fuel, but changed to Trufuel instead (for comparison cuz it was on sale at HD) and guess what, the bogging issues disappeared, although contrary to your opinion of Trufuel, it was your suggestion to "change out fuels) that got me to doing it.
I just replaced the top end on a WT200 wild Thing blower. I also bought a new carburetor since the thing has been sitting for 5 years. I followed your advice to just plug and play and not adjust the carb. It took a little coaxing but I think it was because it is 19F out and the pre mix was a little cold. I brought it indoors for about 20 minutes. Took it back outside and it started right up. Sooo. “Plug and play” worked great! Thanks Bre. Just a note. I had to buy the top end on EBay because none of the eparts companies had the head. The top end arrived and the carb screw and exhaust bolt holes were NOT threaded. The seller said they come from the factory unthreaded. Carb mounting screws were “bastard” M5 1.25. Nobody sells a M5 1.25 tap. Sooo went to 10-24 SS 1” Allen screws and tapped for that. Muffler screws were 1/4”x20. Easy tap. Air filter media was discontinued but I used my gasket cutter kit to cut the inner and outer diameter of a donut from a block of generic lawn mower air filter foam. No sense getting out the snow blower on these fluffy lake effect snowfalls. A leaf blower will handle it.
Just found your channel, Awesome direct to the point no time lag good photo editing . I am a back yard mechanic. And proud of it, I fix everything almost always. Cars lawnmowers record player. The past few years I have learned a lot from people like yourself willing to share knowledge. And I would like to thank you and everyone else, of course you tube. I don’t know if I could edit and film as well. But often I do something I haven’t seen or found any help for on you tub or the web. But I did get the job done with years of tools an tricks that seasoned mechanics share with me. Since watching your first 2 videos I’ve already picked up a few things. Thanks I do have a question or 2 for you. And it not the gas cap . I have a husqvarna backpack ran great first year. Second year starts right up after 15 min dies. Prime it starts up runs for 15 min then dies again. I am going to give it the complete run down you explained and hope to find a clogged exhaust screen or something. Where to buy carb screens ? Second question or is this the third. How would you rate the John cutter 25 cc arborists model. Hope to have good luck with it. Didn’t want to spend the big bucks but didn’t want to buy the cheapest saw or did I ? Got saw 10” bar a chain and 14” bar and two chains for $200 echo was $384 and stihl was 429 for saw bar and chain. Thanks in advance. I have problem tend to right books 😂
❤❤ new to watching. On 2 cycle carb repairs i didn't see anything about the gas tank pressure valve. Or as i call it. The duck beek. That is usually on tank or in fuel cap. KEEP the videos coming
I set the low idle by watching that the engine was staying off the clutch and the blade wasn't turning. made sure that the engine wasn't surging or idling erratically by adjusting the throttle idle. occasionally blipped the throttle and slightly adjust the high mixture to eliminate the bog. I also kept using the choke idle and feathering the choke valve to really make the carburetor work the fuel pump diaphragm. I had to top up the gas tank once or twice. I had to make a slight adjustment when trying to cut some wood. Seems to be in its sweet spot. I drained the gas tank back into the gas can, started the chainsaw a few times to empty the fuel lines and carburetor. I don't put the saw through any long uses. But I do intend to use it pretty much all year round when a cordless saw isn't quite right for what I'm doing. I'm still waiting for the snow to melt away and I have one property cleanup and possibly a few more jobs lining up. I'm also a 35 year experienced mechanic mostly with V8 4 barrel small block and big block engines as well as with 4 stroke and 2 stroke small engines. But the 2 strokes I have the least amount of time and experience. It was really refreshing to learn from your videos and a fulfilling experience to get a cheap used Poulan chainsaw running good again. Our Canadian prices are way over cost compared to the US. But I only used bottle picking money to buy the chainsaw, a replacement purge bulb and I modified the machine to take a better quality of fuel lines and got away from the Tygon lines!
I so thankful for your 2 cycle oil and I'll never use anything else in my equipment except the Echo 6550001 Red Armor 2-Cycle Engine Oil this is the best oil ever it has fixed so many problems in all of my equipment thanks again for your video on the Stihl problems in your shop about running your equipment full throttle instead of running it a 1/4 to 1/2 way open
Love your stuff!!! Re: water in fuel. Ethanol in fuel is a sponge for water. Here in FL the humidity is all it takes to add a tea spoon of H2O in 6 months. 1st fix = use non-ethanol fuel only. 2nd add a product called Ethanol Defense. If you see the comparison with all competitors you’ll agree. It was made for the marine engine industry and it’s performance is phenomenal. Seriously check it out.I’ve used it for 15 years. I’ve tinkered with small engines for 60. Also; air cooled engines that use ethanol/gas run 60-180 degrees hotter than those using non-ethanol fuel. I met a husqvarna repair guy who showed me a 6ft tall pile of chainsaws with blown heads to prove it.
I was cutting firewood commercially years ago and bought a new Husky 266 pro saw and ran a 28-inch bar. It was the best saw I ever ran. I must have cut 500 Coard of wood with saw and it never let me down. It would cut circles around any other saw in its class. Carb had to be adjusted every time I went out some days I would be at near sea level and other times I would be at 8000 ft. above sea level. I always set the high speed until the saw would just start to four stroke at wide open then adjust to get a clean idle and then recheck high speed again. When I buried that 28" bar in a log she cleaned up and ran like bat out of H. I own a boat and motor repair shop and have been adjusting two stroke carbs for more than fifty years now mostly by ear. My customers use their boat motors here CA. anywhere from sea level to 9000 feet and I have no complaints or come backs. I like and enjoy your videos most stuff I already know but you have taught this old guy a thing or two. Thank you
also, plastic containers CAN NOT contain fuel for long periods, the lighter parts of the fuel evaporate. Even a steel container will struggle because of temp/pressure cycles, and of course that hydrophilic ethanol that shouldn't be there.
You are Truly Amazing and very easy to learn from. I did not know about using a Tachometer to make sure your equipment is not to lean Wich I really never knew you could fry a motor Wich makes sense. I always thought you just ad just a carb so your getting the highest. Haha silly diy homeowner I'm 64 like to fix things on my own if I can learned a lot from you which is may save my equipment. Thank you so much for your Great Awesome Videos. Bless you👌👏👏❤️
Just FYI I've actually had gas go bad in 20 days! An old timer has told me years ago that the gas we get these says has so many additives for vehicles, that the gas goes bad in 30 days. Compare to the gas we had in early seventies. My experience... We had a vehicle we could not afford a part so it sat for roughly 2 YEARS maybe more. We were finally able to repair that part and actually started that vehicle with the gas that was in the gas tank when we stopped driving it! Yeah WOW! I could not believe even then that it would start on that old gas. But it did. Drove it to the gas station filled it up and didn't have problems with it after that.
This was very helpful for me. As a home owner I think the urge to adjust a carb when it isn't necessary is always present. I also appreciate the tool and oil recommendation links in the description. One last thought...If you would've told me 30 years ago that the EPA would be regulating what tools we can buy from a repair shop I would've thought you were crazy.....Yet, here we are. Love the channel! Keep on wrenchin'!
It's even WORSE here in California, where you have C.A.R.B. (The California Air Resources Board) issuing one asinine mandate and regulation after another. I knew of one incredibly outstanding and knowledgeable mechanic who finally "Closed Shop" as he was fed-up with dealing with all of these bureaucrats that made his life miserable, and ALWAYS were hitting him with another type of "Required Fee" and/or mandate.. (I can't even buy (or have shipped to me) a replacement adjustment screw for the carb on my kids' dirt-bikes, thanks to C.A.R.B. )
@@DadBradTo5 That is insane. I can't believe how authoritarian some of these bureaucrats have become. Since they are not elected, they have have unchecked power.
Hi Bre. I stumbled on to your channel and glad I did. You have awesome content presented in a likable, easy to watch fashion. Thanks. You're spot on about fuel life. I've been a mechanic for 44 years and I teach high school and college level auto tech programs. Fuel is viable for about 90 days but... the fuel at your local gas station is about 30 days old when the tanker truck delivers it to them so you're comment that fuel begins to deteriorate after 60 days is very accurate. A good quality fuel stabilizer can buy you some added shelf life but it MUST be added to fresh pump gas. Stabilizers will not resurrect stale gas. Always buy quality fuel from a reputable station and only use the octane rating that the equipment manufacturer recommends (usually 87 octane). Liked, subbed and hit the notification bell.
Jsut wanted to add, I use 91 in all my tools + ATV. Not because the 91 makes it "better" (Although the ATV does require 89 vs 87) but because I can only find non-ethanol in 91 round where I am. I always drop in the Marine Stabil to my the empty 5gal fuel cans before I fill them, it keeps the gas good a long time.
I have been separating ethanol from the gas. A small amount of octane booster could be added but it does pretty good without it. It's unbelievable how much water ethanol can absorb! Great videos!
I thought you were beating up your husband for taking your tools in the intro with a hot camera 😬. Phew 😅. Thank god because I fear for his life. Lol. Thank you for all the info. Because of you I was able to fix many things in my house because you have shown that patience and determination will get things going. 👍🇺🇸
Excellent video, water from condensation is always the first thing to check, replace the gas. For gas storage, I put stabilizer Jacks n all my gas, no matter how quick I may use it because you never know. Not sure why, but I put gas in a push mower before moving from Ontario to Nova Scotia in 2018, started it up yesterday on the third pull lol. Maybe our gas is magical here. Finally, I store all my gas yard stuff in the house over winter.
I thought I bought an OEM carburetor for my Shindaiwa trimmer. It was not OEM and needed adjustment. I wish I saw this video before I did that but it turned out ok. I have been using it for a few years without further adjustment but I definitely agree with buying oem replacement parts and not 3rd party. Thanks for the great video! I am one of those people that have a different brand of everything (and none of them were made by MTD haha)
I have purchased 2 brand new "value" trimmers. Both out of the box would only run with the choke on. As a professional auto mechanic I found a way to make small adjustments to the carb and got it running well. It appeared to me as though both machines were adjusted for Colorado not Houston TX.
I have a craftsman chainsaw I bought 12 years ago, I used it once and it ended up in the back of the basement….I just seen it the other day took it outside, had gas in it from years ago, well I was like will it run…and Yes it did, I cut down a tree…I was amazed..
This may sound like a pain in the butt But after I’m done using my chainsaws and weedeaters, I dump the fuel back in the gas can and I run the engine until it out of gas and I haven’t had problems in years with my equipment
Just watched this and my old kombi trimmer is purring again after a couple tweaks of the carb & a new gasket. I was all set to replace the carb but was lucky to have found this clip You’re in my top books 👍🏼
Great video!!! I've tried to buy an adjustment tool from a local saw shop. More than happy to sell me one, however I wasnt very happy with the price it was over $50.
An easier option, use a cut off wheel, just cut a small slot in the screw/ housing and use a small screw driver to adjust. Cheaper, and probably illegal, perhaps better than owning an illegal tool. Maybe.
Chickanic good stuff I subscribbed. Most people do not get it.. the carburetor just does not go out of adjustment so why would you adjust? Most times underlying condition that makes engine perform poorly. Great diagnosis Compression fuel spark. You are the Woman thanks
Thanks for making this video. I think I'm going to have to watch it a bunch to fully understand it. I didn't know that digital tool was made and me being stupid tried to adjust my chainsaw. It was messed up when I bought it new but didn't want to deal with taking it back (like an idiot). It just didn't run right and died way to much for no reason. Anyway I took it to a guy, paid him $50 2 years ago and he adjusted on it without the digital tool. Couldn't get it running better so took it apart, cleaned it and it ran so much better. Anyway when I got it home it had zero power to cut anything. That all that made me but the carburetor tools you showed minus the digital one and now it won't run.
Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
You are scared 😳f a fine for selling a tool in your shop but an Amazon shop is 👌 😂
Hands down the BEST carb tuning video I have seen since RUclips began. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Be proud, you are awesome. 😊
Been running saws for 30 years, this was the best adjusting carb tutorial I ever saw!!! THANKS!!!!
Wow, thanks!
OK! So You are the only "small engine" specialist I now have in my computer that I feel confident in going to for advice and help. I just feel that there's no BS when I watch your channel. You say it the way it is and every time I've done it your way it's been right. So Thank You for sharing your thoughts and knowledge on this channel and I will continue to follow you so I can get it right the first time.
I would love a full list of every tool you use as a small machines mechanic. Will be a great kit bag for our technicians. 😊
im glad i clicked on this one before messing with the carburetor!! My idle was high and chain was spinning (could cut 3-4 inches into a log in idle) All the other videos kept saying my clutch was going out (no, brand spanking new, never seen gas before) others said the low end carb screw needed to be adjusted. She said to adjust the idle screw, and that was it!! no messing with the carb, nice!!
This is the most professional tutorial for proper carburetor adjustment of a two-stroke engine in a chainsaw ever found on the Internet.
Even at my local Husqvarna service center, they wouldn't put that kind of effort into their work. These slackers set the carburetors on customers' chainsaws "by ear"....
While setting slow revs by ear (L screw) will not harm the engine, setting high revs by ear (H screw) risks seizing the engine by exceeding the safe speed (e.g. 13000 rpm on most Husqvarna saws), at best they will set the high revs too low (e.g. 11000 or 12000 instead of 13000 rpm) and the saw will be less efficient.
Thanks for your work. Greetings from Poland.
Lady, you are something else. Like to watch your videos.
I so agree with all of this. The question to ask yourself is when you want to adjust the carb is why... If it ran right last time and all you did was leave it sit, the carb didn't adjust it self so something has to have changed and Chickanic gives the reasons. That being said I every day carry the Poulan carb tool in my small belt tool pouch. 😉
What’s even better is your Cobra t-shirt!!!
Love it!
She is no joke best video in more detail than anyone could ask for . Is she married wow!
……a competent, well spoken, informed, professional woman, teaching me how to run my equipment better…….I fucking’ love it! Keep it up!!! 🥳
Ha, ha!!! "Honey-hole"! I never heard of that one before! Great channel.
I've always tuned by ear just the way you showed with the tacho, it's important to keep in mind that if you must make an adjustment keep on the rich side as lean mix means high fuel burn temp which equates to melted piston and huge bill.
So we find the highest speed of the L nozzle, then we tighten the T nozzle to 3700 and move the L nozzle back to 2700?
Happened to me. Dead backpack Husq blower…now I need to find parts…
Most carburetors, turn left to richen doesn't take much. After it hit maximum RPM back off until it starts losing RPM the extra fuel will help from having a lean mixture
How Huge bill ??
a Second hand whipper is gonna be $80 - $120
and if you want to go for something better, say up to $200
how would you ever get a huge bill, even if the piston did melt ?
and entire crankcase and piston is like $40 - $50
@@martinkuliza $40 - $50 is a lot of money these days, people don't have ready cash to throw around anymore! If you do then fine 🙂
Hands down the best. The know how knowledge and the way you present that knowledge.
This has to be the best carb adjustment vid I've ever seen and I've watches a few dozen.... THANKS...
Thank you!!
@@Chickanic I turn screws far more than you do because dirt and coagulated fuel gets stuck in the screws often and can often be cleared by moving screws back and forth and then returning them to where they were. The trick is to mark or write down where they were so that you always have that option, and I don't trust that to memory. Also, clearing dirt cans often be done within the range of the limiter caps, so they often don't need to be removed.
@@Chickanic 150 psi good compresion 335xpt ?
@@Sensei948 It is good.
@@Chickanic Is this L nozzle setup procedure also correct for 372 xp 335xpt? If I leave the L nozzle in the highest position, will I damage the saw?
I love watching ALL your videos, your awsome!
Your advice on finding the “root cause” on why your carb might need adjusted is the best I’ve heard. Like you said most people are trying to tune around an issue. When you buy from a dealer they will tune it for you from new and after it breaks in if needed. Yet another reason to support a local dealer.
Spot on .....Andy ....I find more mistakes are made by people dedicated to results only to suffer from avoidable repercussions . I even advocate that proper vac and pressure testing should always be preformed on equipment before reaching for the nearest adjusting screwdriver.
Sadly / i have found this young lady still dosent pressure or vac test the equipment.....Well lets just say we havent seen the testing tools required rather ......I find this troubling for many reasons that i made evident in a prior comment with regards to a Poulan Chainsaw . But to reiterate if proper vac and pressure testing isnt preformed you can inadvertently cause more damage by forcing a determined result . Note replacing diaphrams / Kits are ideal but keep in mind not all kits include the check valves that often swell or distort that most mech /techs are certainly aware of ........there for .....hints once again the reason of why pressure and vac test equipment is so imperative . I dont mean to seem as if I am a Troll ....And to be honest I think she has amazing talent ....But viewers should be aware that kits and fuel lines are only a small fraction of fuel related issues ....Now with that being said she did advocate making OEM purchases over aftermarket .....And that in its self is very sound advice ....NOW ON TO A MORE POSITIVE NOTE .....I was pleased to know/see she used a tachometer on the Chainsaw I just hope to see a future video of her showing proper vac and pressure testing on not only a chainsaw but the carb and tank vent. Perhaps show leaking seals around crankshafts , impulse lines ,intake boots or insulators .......I mean her talent is there ......My question is simply why havent we seen her use the equipment required to properly vac and pressure test theses chainsaws as they are basic in this line of work ? And respectfully she advocates she works on many two cycle pieces of equipment ......{Strange} ......Seriously just perplexing for lack of a better word .
@@kevinbolin7665 I think you must have missed it, but she did mention checking the cylinder compression with a gauge while going through the case study and demo of the large chainsaw in the video. It's always good to have all the proper tools, and thanks for reminding me of the value of a compression tester. I'll probably have to invest in one in the future for my repair endeavors.
Definately you know your wibble washers and wiggling shafts you are amazeing glad I found your site.
Mike said that. Thanks
I really appreciate this channel. I have been a pro carver for 33 years and I am always learning new things on RUclips. Thanks for sharing!
I always set my mixtures by reading the spark plugs. Same as in my old cars. I never knew you were supposed to adjust the idle mix the way you do. I just set in the middle of both drop off points, same as a car, then adjust the idle screw to an rpm that is low enough to just stop the chain from rotating. After I cut wood for a while I will pull the plug and if it is bright and clean, I’m running to lean. If it’s black and sooty, I’m too rich. As far as high goes I find the high point and then back off until the saw starts dieseling. I’ve never used a tach. Luckily I haven’t burned up a saw yet. I’ll buy one and start using your method. Thank you.
Thanks! great explanation of fine tuning a two stroke.
The best demonstration I’ve seen. Thanks!
I have a line trimmer that from day one that I bought it from the big box store 3 years ago it would not idle, it would not stay running during the time I was using it. I got the adjusting tools and this year I turned the adjusters a couple turns, and it's a different machine. I can't wait to use it now. It has become a joy to use. Well mostly, lol.
Thankyou Chicanic for putting these videos up. I learn so much everytime and they have become my number 1 reference point. ❤
I stared using non ethanol fuel in all my small engines about 3 years ago, and have had great luck. I also use an additive every end of season and actually will do a couple cold starts every winter. Great advice! Great video!
I use ethanol free premium, and have no problems at all. of course, my season never really ends, but I'll have gas sitting in the can for months at a time.
You've got way too much time on your hands!
😂😂😂
Non ethanol fuel has solved virtually all problems with all my small engines. An opened bottle of ethanol fuel will absorb water from ambient air in an hour or even less. It becomes cloudy with water.
I'm 80. All my two-cycle stuff is very old. Like 10 or 20 years. What she says is true about warm up and getting it running after sitting over winter. When I was running a lawn service in Florida, didn't have that problem because you're running your stuff all the time. In Florida gas would go bad all the time it's too hot. So if your stuff wouldn't run you know get some new mix. Up here on North Carolina gas goes bad over winter. Dump it and put in new mix. I never heard of a tachometer for two cycles, I guess I'll have to get one cuz what she says is true, too high of an RPM you'll burn up your engine.
It's good to find the few good caring people left in the world. You're alright with me Charles.
I love the demonstration! I have watched and read way too many how to's and this is by FAR the BEST! Not to mentions you are WAY better looking than a lot of RUclipsr's. Thank you for this video and please keep up the awesome work/videos.
GREAT instructional video!! CLEAR, CONCISE, & DETAILED!!
Fwiw, I wasted about an hours worth of time watching 2 other "instructional" video's, that were about as "useful" as a screen door on a submarine!!
One, wasted 20 minutes of my time, by "summing up" his "presentation" with; "They're junk (re Poulan Chainsaws), so just throw them in the garbage..."
The other "gem" had me watching the guy turning screws (H/L and Idle Screw) but giving ZERO DETAILS re what he was doing!!
THANK YOU, Bre, for this OUTSTANDING & INFORMATIVE TUTORIAL!! - - Thanks to your instructions, my ("Piece of Junk") Poulan Pro 42 cc Chainsaw is running GREAT!!
Btw, Bre... Arkansas is "On our Radar" as 1 of 4 states we're looking at moving to, in order to escape this "Socialist Paradise", aka Komie-Fornia. Currently, 4 families that we knew here have moved there, and they are all LOVING their FREEDOM back your way!!
I love watching your videos win I can't sleep because I have nightmares about my old shop ,
Wow, very timely that this should appear in my recommended videos today. I got a new Stihl MS291, and it threw a hissy fit the first time I tried to start it. Started right away- then died after 30 secs, and refused to even try again. Then I flooded it, and discovered I'd neglected to bring any tools with me... So I gave up on it for that day, and used my other one.
Next weekend, I pull the plug and clean it off- then give the rope a couple of pulls to clean out the cylinder, and reassembled. The bugger started right up! And quit. Restarted in run with one pull. I had to hold it, and feather the throttle now and then to keep it running, until it warmed up. After that, it became an absolute beast! After cutting all the big rounds I cared to lift into my truck, I let it sit and idle a bit before shutting it off. (If this is brand new, I can't wait to see what it becomes when broken in!)
I was wondering if maybe I should nudge the low idle up a bit, so it stays running without help as it warms up, but you've convinced me otherwise. I was VERY happy with how it ran once warmed up a bit, so I think I'll leave it alone!
Also, two thumbs way up for manufacturers adding vibration reducing systems to saws. Dad's old McCullochs vibrated so hard, they'd leave your hands all tingly and puffy feeling. Not at all pleasant. They were so hard to start every time firewood cutting time came around, that I learned all kinds of interesting words, and was put off gas saws for decades... This 55cc saw here, doesn't vibrate much at all. You could tell it was running and cutting, but it didn't make you PAY for using it, like those old things did.
I had that aha moment when I finally understood the principles of how this works. It happened while watching your Stihl adjustment video, which is done in slightly different order, but in the end the techniques are more similar than different. For people coming along you want to remember a few principles. You want it on the verge of running rich, since lean combustion leads to the deadly combination of extra heat and inadequate lubrication. Turning the ticker screw CW will open the idle throttle stop to increase idle fuel delivery. Likewise turning either L or H CCW will also give more fuel. You first adjust L to get a peak stoichiometric idle rpm, then you increase L more to bring idle back to desired baseline to produce a safety cushion of extra lubrication and fuel. The L jet opening is at the point of fastest air flow at idle, right beside the throttle butterfly. When L is adjusted correctly, snap throttle gives a brisk rpm response. When the throttle is open, the H jet is positioned upstream at a second point of fastest air flow (lowest Bernoulli pressure). All of these factors are fine print compared to big problems of air flow restriction such as a dirty air filter or clogged spark arrestor. So, fix those first.
VP premixed fuel is awesome. I give it to everyone in my family for Christmas
I have never had a running or starting problem since the day l started using VP. Best blood pressure relief l ever had!
Awesome tachometer. Makes adjustments a whole lot easier
Any idea where we can find a tach for twenty dollars like she said
Yep and there back orders
Hi Chickanic, my name is Tom, from Ireland. Thank you for these excellent videos and explanations.
I done my major small engine repair business back in the 70's and yes! Personally I'm done been experiencing only one major problem, being nothing but today's gas!
Non ethanol gas has solved all my carb and fuel line problems.
Had a new Stihl saw that stalled at idle. Finally tweaked the carb about 1/8 turn and ran fine. Thanks
Thank you for this awesome and very informative video. You are a GREAT teacher! You explain things in a way so it is easy to understand and learn from. This is clearly the BEST chainsaw tuning video out there! I have a FarmerTec Holzfforma MS660 Stihl Clone that has been very difficult to tune. I think I will finally get it dialed in after watching your video. Again, thank you!
Great Video. Your procedure to adjust the 2 cycle carbs was great and well received. I own a farm property with several 2 cycle engines that occasionally require adjustment. This will make life easier. Thanks
I do all my heating with wood. I bought a used CS4600 for $125, 12 years ago and it is my main saw. I have never done anything to it but clean and sharpen it. Still my best saw! Old Echos are the best. I'm always looking for them. Thank you Bre, I just want to say "I love girl"!
Hubby, what a Blessed Man you ARE!!! HAHAHAHA
May God Bless you BOTH! Daily!!!
Your videos are simply awesome. Thanks for all you do. Take care.
You rock! Thanks!
Another great video. I love how you explain your troubleshooting and adjustment processes. Thanks for running through the different types of manufacturers and carburetors. Definitely going to purchase an engine tachometer after watching this video (sorry honey, just one more tool....).
This helps. I just rebuilt a well used Stihl MS 361, and the previous owner definitely didn’t know what they were doing because it runs like crap. Ordered a tach, and I’ll adjust this weekend.
Ma'am, I wish I lived near you. You would get all my small engine jobs. Thank you so much for you're video's. So Incitfull and educational
Great video!! I’ve been messing around with old 2 stroke tools for over 50 years and it was always a guessing game.
Thanks for clarifying ❤
We do business with a guy north of Dover. Mountain Enterprises and he does us a great job . Good info and great politics lol. Bought a huge echo string trimmer.and it is a beast. Love to glean info from your great show.
Superb,educational videp. I bought the needle valve screwdriver assortment. I was impressed,they work great! Need a video on fuel line sizes and selection and the tricks of the trade installing and routing the lines.
All Echo!! At my place. I've tried to tell people about fuel. Most don't get it. Good video.
Your a real trooper starting those saws. Good job on the adjustment.
Good, very knowledgeable person young lady.
Agree with glen before me have seen hundreds of blokes showing me how they do it but not properly thankyou so much for the lesson Dave 😀
You have some of the best explanations and information I have ever come across for small engine equipment. Great work, and a great channel name!
Absolutely love your videos. Saved me so much money working on my toys I have bought.
Another confidence booster video. A big thank you from East Tennessee.
Good to know about not adjusting a new OEM carb. Great video, thanks.
I really like the in depth explanation of everything. I've always done it by ear and while that has worked for me, I don't do this for a living. If I were doing it for a bunch of other people, I'd want to get the tacho and do it the official way for sure.
You did a great job explaining everything. Nicely done.
You have a great channel. Often people try to tune the carb on a poor running machine when it’s actually an air leak. Please do a video on detecting and fixing this problem.
This was one of the best videos. This is one of the biggest issues I have, and know I have a good understanding on how to adjust chainsaws with the tester. Thank you so much. Oh I just started my online Penn forster course for small engine repair and because of your videos you put out I have a good understanding on alot so I know this course will be so much easier to understand and learn and pass. So again thank you so much bre. Your awesome
My dad , rip , he always said , a little knowledge is a dangerous thing .
I will try the choke on and off thing, great advice. I always drain my fuel at the end of season or when it wont start...but i know when im over my head, i never mess with fuel mixture. Off to the shop i go
It's hard to believe the fine you can get for selling a simple adjustment tool . The set you showed is pretty cool 😎. Great video.
These rules are made by people that are not elected, they are hired. Maybe educated (?), maybe related to the boss. These rules are not laws! How do they get away with it? One EPA inspector made my BIL pay $40,000 PER Quarter, to continue using stuff HE said was a pollutant! Hypocrite!!!!!!!!!!!!! If it was that serious a pollutant, it should have been discontinued, not 'pay to pollute'!! I've many more complaints about EPA, but if I started on them, I'd seem as big an idiot as they ARE!!
@@heymakerphd1982 yes I hear ya ,seems like a money grab to me
Thank you, If I hadn't listened to your thing about Trufuel, changing fuel to improve, fix bogging or no starts, I would probably still be taking apart my carb for the umteenth time without going thru the checks you pointed out. As it turns out, the reg fuel mix I use (Shell 97 octane + 50:1 oil) was bogging my Redmax bush cutter, then I took your suggestion to change the fuel, but changed to Trufuel instead (for comparison cuz it was on sale at HD) and guess what, the bogging issues disappeared, although contrary to your opinion of Trufuel, it was your suggestion to "change out fuels) that got me to doing it.
I just replaced the top end on a WT200 wild Thing blower. I also bought a new carburetor since the thing has been sitting for 5 years. I followed your advice to just plug and play and not adjust the carb. It took a little coaxing but I think it was because it is 19F out and the pre mix was a little cold. I brought it indoors for about 20 minutes. Took it back outside and it started right up. Sooo.
“Plug and play” worked great! Thanks Bre. Just a note. I had to buy the top end on EBay because none of the eparts companies had the head. The top end arrived and the carb screw and exhaust bolt holes were NOT threaded. The seller said they come from the factory unthreaded. Carb mounting screws were “bastard” M5 1.25. Nobody sells a M5 1.25 tap. Sooo went to 10-24 SS 1” Allen screws and tapped for that. Muffler screws were 1/4”x20. Easy tap. Air filter media was discontinued but I used my gasket cutter kit to cut the inner and outer diameter of a donut from a block of generic lawn mower air filter foam. No sense getting out the snow blower on these fluffy lake effect snowfalls. A leaf blower will handle it.
Great job showing and telling, I learned something , I did not know . Thanks keep showing telling see ya next time see ya bye.
Just found your channel, Awesome direct to the point no time lag good photo editing . I am a back yard mechanic. And proud of it, I fix everything almost always. Cars lawnmowers record player. The past few years I have learned a lot from people like yourself willing to share knowledge. And I would like to thank you and everyone else, of course you tube. I don’t know if I could edit and film as well. But often I do something I haven’t seen or found any help for on you tub or the web. But I did get the job done with years of tools an tricks that seasoned mechanics share with me. Since watching your first 2 videos I’ve already picked up a few things. Thanks I do have a question or 2 for you. And it not the gas cap . I have a husqvarna backpack ran great first year. Second year starts right up after 15 min dies. Prime it starts up runs for 15 min then dies again. I am going to give it the complete run down you explained and hope to find a clogged exhaust screen or something. Where to buy carb screens ? Second question or is this the third. How would you rate the John cutter 25 cc arborists model. Hope to have good luck with it. Didn’t want to spend the big bucks but didn’t want to buy the cheapest saw or did I ? Got saw 10” bar a chain and 14” bar and two chains for $200 echo was $384 and stihl was 429 for saw bar and chain. Thanks in advance. I have problem tend to right books 😂
❤❤ new to watching. On 2 cycle carb repairs i didn't see anything about the gas tank pressure valve. Or as i call it. The duck beek. That is usually on tank or in fuel cap. KEEP the videos coming
I set the low idle by watching that the engine was staying off the clutch and the blade wasn't turning. made sure that the engine wasn't surging or idling erratically by adjusting the throttle idle. occasionally blipped the throttle and slightly adjust the high mixture to eliminate the bog. I also kept using the choke idle and feathering the choke valve to really make the carburetor work the fuel pump diaphragm. I had to top up the gas tank once or twice. I had to make a slight adjustment when trying to cut some wood. Seems to be in its sweet spot. I drained the gas tank back into the gas can, started the chainsaw a few times to empty the fuel lines and carburetor. I don't put the saw through any long uses. But I do intend to use it pretty much all year round when a cordless saw isn't quite right for what I'm doing. I'm still waiting for the snow to melt away and I have one property cleanup and possibly a few more jobs lining up. I'm also a 35 year experienced mechanic mostly with V8 4 barrel small block and big block engines as well as with 4 stroke and 2 stroke small engines. But the 2 strokes I have the least amount of time and experience. It was really refreshing to learn from your videos and a fulfilling experience to get a cheap used Poulan chainsaw running good again. Our Canadian prices are way over cost compared to the US. But I only used bottle picking money to buy the chainsaw, a replacement purge bulb and I modified the machine to take a better quality of fuel lines and got away from the Tygon lines!
Very good presentation on what to do
an not to do on adjusting carburetor an very nice to watch
Great presentation on how to adjust the carburetor an I what to do an what not to do an you are the best looking to watch
Please tell your Echo sponsor I just bought a new Echo chainsaw because of your channel. Keep up the great work.
Bree, what a FANTASTIC 2 Cycle Carburetor Adjustment Video. Thank you very much for making this video!
Thanks for telling us why you were not replying !
Your teaching is greatly appreciated.
GLAD YOU MENTIONED OLD PETROL (SORRY GAS) I KEPT 4 GALLONS FOR ABOUT 6 MONTHS AND WHEN I TRIED TO USE IT IT EVEN SMELLED FUNNY
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
Love the retro 80s GI Joe shirt!!!!
"Now you know, and knowing is half the battle! " Thanks Pat!
@@Chickanic I got my first GI Joe in 1983, that takes me back.
@@Chickanic "Showing up " is the other half?
Well done!! One of your best videos.
Wow, thanks!
I so thankful for your 2 cycle oil and I'll never use anything else in my equipment except the Echo 6550001 Red Armor 2-Cycle Engine Oil this is the best oil ever it has fixed so many problems in all of my equipment thanks again for your video on the Stihl problems in your shop about running your equipment full throttle instead of running it a 1/4 to 1/2 way open
Thank you for the great video- most detailed carb adjustment video Ive seen!
Where did you say you got your tachometer for adjusting the carburetor high and low RPMs
Found all your lists .Ordered some tools . Saw a guy use a straw to fit over adjusting screws and it worked . DIY ?
Broken Arrow Ok
Love your stuff!!! Re: water in fuel. Ethanol in fuel is a sponge for water. Here in FL the humidity is all it takes to add a tea spoon of H2O in 6 months. 1st fix = use non-ethanol fuel only. 2nd add a product called Ethanol Defense. If you see the comparison with all competitors you’ll agree. It was made for the marine engine industry and it’s performance is phenomenal. Seriously check it out.I’ve used it for 15 years. I’ve tinkered with small engines for 60. Also; air cooled engines that use ethanol/gas run 60-180 degrees hotter than those using non-ethanol fuel. I met a husqvarna repair guy who showed me a 6ft tall pile of chainsaws with blown heads to prove it.
I was cutting firewood commercially years ago and bought a new Husky 266 pro saw and ran a 28-inch bar. It was the best saw I ever ran. I must have cut 500 Coard of wood with saw and it never let me down. It would cut circles around any other saw in its class. Carb had to be adjusted every time I went out some days I would be at near sea level and other times I would be at 8000 ft. above sea level. I always set the high speed until the saw would just start to four stroke at wide open then adjust to get a clean idle and then recheck high speed again. When I buried that 28" bar in a log she cleaned up and ran like bat out of H. I own a boat and motor repair shop and have been adjusting two stroke carbs for more than fifty years now mostly by ear. My customers use their boat motors here CA. anywhere from sea level to 9000 feet and I have no complaints or come backs. I like and enjoy your videos most stuff I already know but you have taught this old guy a thing or two. Thank you
Ok you're a smart lady. Good info.
Thank you I just asked about my poulan and found this video, I'll try. Wish me luck.
Nice to see that fresh air filter in there... don't forget you often can't see how badly that filter is clogged by fine dust or pitch.
also, plastic containers CAN NOT contain fuel for long periods, the lighter parts of the fuel evaporate. Even a steel container will struggle because of temp/pressure cycles, and of course that hydrophilic ethanol that shouldn't be there.
You are Truly Amazing and very easy to learn from. I did not know about using a Tachometer to make sure your equipment is not to lean Wich I really never knew you could fry a motor Wich makes sense. I always thought you just ad just a carb so your getting the highest. Haha silly diy homeowner I'm 64 like to fix things on my own if I can learned a lot from you which is may save my equipment. Thank you so much for your Great Awesome Videos. Bless you👌👏👏❤️
Thank you you make my life more easy thank
Aw! Thanks Samuel!
Just FYI
I've actually had gas go bad in 20 days!
An old timer has told me years ago that the gas we get these says has so many additives for vehicles, that the gas goes bad in 30 days.
Compare to the gas we had in early seventies.
My experience...
We had a vehicle we could not afford a part so it sat for roughly
2 YEARS maybe more.
We were finally able to repair that part and actually started that vehicle with the gas that was in the gas tank when we stopped driving it! Yeah WOW!
I could not believe even then that it would start on that old gas. But it did. Drove it to the gas station filled it up and didn't have problems with it after that.
This was very helpful for me. As a home owner I think the urge to adjust a carb when it isn't necessary is always present. I also appreciate the tool and oil recommendation links in the description. One last thought...If you would've told me 30 years ago that the EPA would be regulating what tools we can buy from a repair shop I would've thought you were crazy.....Yet, here we are. Love the channel! Keep on wrenchin'!
It's even WORSE here in California, where you have C.A.R.B. (The California Air Resources Board) issuing one asinine mandate and regulation after another. I knew of one incredibly outstanding and knowledgeable mechanic who finally "Closed Shop" as he was fed-up with dealing with all of these bureaucrats that made his life miserable, and ALWAYS were hitting him with another type of "Required Fee" and/or mandate.. (I can't even buy (or have shipped to me) a replacement adjustment screw for the carb on my kids' dirt-bikes, thanks to C.A.R.B. )
@@DadBradTo5 That is insane. I can't believe how authoritarian some of these bureaucrats have become. Since they are not elected, they have have unchecked power.
This is all totally unconstitutional.
People need to start getting their own copies and reading it.
Awesome and clear instructions
Hi Bre. I stumbled on to your channel and glad I did. You have awesome content presented in a likable, easy to watch fashion. Thanks.
You're spot on about fuel life. I've been a mechanic for 44 years and I teach high school and college level auto tech programs. Fuel is viable for about 90 days but... the fuel at your local gas station is about 30 days old when the tanker truck delivers it to them so you're comment that fuel begins to deteriorate after 60 days is very accurate. A good quality fuel stabilizer can buy you some added shelf life but it MUST be added to fresh pump gas. Stabilizers will not resurrect stale gas. Always buy quality fuel from a reputable station and only use the octane rating that the equipment manufacturer recommends (usually 87 octane).
Liked, subbed and hit the notification bell.
Jsut wanted to add, I use 91 in all my tools + ATV. Not because the 91 makes it "better" (Although the ATV does require 89 vs 87) but because I can only find non-ethanol in 91 round where I am.
I always drop in the Marine Stabil to my the empty 5gal fuel cans before I fill them, it keeps the gas good a long time.
I have been separating ethanol from the gas. A small amount of octane booster could be added but it does pretty good without it. It's unbelievable how much water ethanol can absorb!
Great videos!
Good tip on the throttle adjustment I was wondering about that nice ! Thank you 💥💯
I thought you were beating up your husband for taking your tools in the intro with a hot camera 😬. Phew 😅. Thank god because I fear for his life. Lol. Thank you for all the info. Because of you I was able to fix many things in my house because you have shown that patience and determination will get things going. 👍🇺🇸
Excellent video, water from condensation is always the first thing to check, replace the gas.
For gas storage, I put stabilizer Jacks n all my gas, no matter how quick I may use it because you never know.
Not sure why, but I put gas in a push mower before moving from Ontario to Nova Scotia in 2018, started it up yesterday on the third pull lol. Maybe our gas is magical here.
Finally, I store all my gas yard stuff in the house over winter.
I thought I bought an OEM carburetor for my Shindaiwa trimmer. It was not OEM and needed adjustment. I wish I saw this video before I did that but it turned out ok. I have been using it for a few years without further adjustment but I definitely agree with buying oem replacement parts and not 3rd party. Thanks for the great video! I am one of those people that have a different brand of everything (and none of them were made by MTD haha)
I have purchased 2 brand new "value" trimmers. Both out of the box would only run with the choke on. As a professional auto mechanic I found a way to make small adjustments to the carb and got it running well. It appeared to me as though both machines were adjusted for Colorado not Houston TX.
Sounded beautiful as is the tech working on it
I have a craftsman chainsaw I bought 12 years ago, I used it once and it ended up in the back of the basement….I just seen it the other day took it outside, had gas in it from years ago, well I was like will it run…and Yes it did, I cut down a tree…I was amazed..
This may sound like a pain in the butt
But after I’m done using my chainsaws and weedeaters, I dump the fuel back in the gas can and I run the engine until it out of gas and I haven’t had problems in years with my equipment
Just watched this and my old kombi trimmer is purring again after a couple tweaks of the carb & a new gasket. I was all set to replace the carb but was lucky to have found this clip
You’re in my top books 👍🏼
Great video!!! I've tried to buy an adjustment tool from a local saw shop. More than happy to sell me one, however I wasnt very happy with the price it was over $50.
Buy online no problem.
An easier option, use a cut off wheel, just cut a small slot in the screw/ housing and use a small screw driver to adjust. Cheaper, and probably illegal, perhaps better than owning an illegal tool. Maybe.
Chickanic good stuff I subscribbed. Most people do not get it.. the carburetor just does not go out of adjustment so why would you adjust? Most times underlying condition that makes engine perform poorly. Great diagnosis Compression fuel spark. You are the Woman thanks
Thanks for making this video. I think I'm going to have to watch it a bunch to fully understand it. I didn't know that digital tool was made and me being stupid tried to adjust my chainsaw. It was messed up when I bought it new but didn't want to deal with taking it back (like an idiot). It just didn't run right and died way to much for no reason.
Anyway I took it to a guy, paid him $50 2 years ago and he adjusted on it without the digital tool. Couldn't get it running better so took it apart, cleaned it and it ran so much better. Anyway when I got it home it had zero power to cut anything. That all that made me but the carburetor tools you showed minus the digital one and now it won't run.