I was a Tech for 30 years and saw dozens of stripped out oil pan drain plugs and oil filters so tight they wouldn't come off . These are the reason I change my own oil at age 60 .
I've been working at Walmart as an Auto Care Tech for going on 14 years, and I've seen more than 1 overtightened drain plug and oil filter as well. Hand tight on the filter with oil on the gasket will make the next filter removal much easier, just make sure to check and ensure the old gasket isn't stuck up on the oil filter mounting plate on the engine. Wiping off the mounting plate prior to mounting the filter will ensure it's gasket free and clean. With the drain plugs, there are factory torque specs. The GM truck's for the most part, are all 18 ft lbs, even the modern 6.6L diesel engines. Fords vary from 17 to 20 lbs, and Chryslers vary from 20 to 25 lbs. The Fort 6.7L diesel is 32 lbs and the 6.7 Dodge diesel is 37 lbs.
Another tip from a mechanic. When you take off the fill cap place it up against the hood latch so if you forget about the cap after you've put all the oil in the engine, you won't be able to close the hood
or do what I do, I just put a clean rag on my drivers seat and put the cap there. Also, I make sure the engine is good and warm when I go to change the oil. Looked like it was here as it flowed out pretty quick. But in colder weather, people often don't warm up their engines first.
As a DIY guy, I have a few additional tips. * Warm the engine up first. It doesn't have to be running temperature (scalding hazzard), but it will still flow out better if it's a little hot. * Most (all?) Japanese engines have a horizontal filter. That's no problem and doesn't cause any issues. It's not doing your oil changes regularly that causes problems, If you have a vertical oil filter, prefill it by all means if it makes you feel better. * Take both the sump plug and filter out and let it drain. You saw how much oil was retained in the filter receiver? you want as little of that dribbling back into your sump as possible. * When you jack the car up look which way the sump plug goes. Jacking it one way will usually help the sump drain. The other way will make it retain more oil than it does otherwise... and yes, the design of most sumps will guarantee the retention of some dirty oil. * A DIY job isn't under shop time constraints. Let it drain for half an hour... or whatever. Go and have lunch. The more dirty oil you get out, the less dirt there is in the engine. * Take the 15,000 km between services as a suggestion. A fairly bad one, no matter what oil you use. Oil is relatively cheap, engines not so much. There's plenty of independent mechanics (like Scotty Kilmer) that suggest that short service intervals are good for your engine and will make it last much longer with greatly reduced wear. * Always make sure the filter gasket has not stayed on the receiver when you take the old one off. It's possible for this to get left behind and result in double gasketing, which will lead to a leak and require you to re-do the job, when you eventually figure out what happened. * The correct torque on a filter is to do it up so the gasket just meets the sealing surface, then turn it another 2/3. I've never had a leak doing this, and I've never needed a tool to get the old filter off either. * Lastly, always replace the washer on your sump plug, and yes it should have one. Some manufacturers use a single fibre washer while others use a single copper washer. Keep a supply on hand for oil changes. The copper washers are better, however if the pan is dinged up and won't seal, a fibre wash might save you.
I had been reusing the drain plug washer, no problem so far. Prefilling may not be necessary unless the car had been sitting not running for more than a year and you decided to make an oil change before restarting the engine. if your car starts right away then it is a non issue, but some cars takes a little longer to start such as old carbureted cars. Uncle Tony's garage mentioned if the car had been sitting for more than a year, avoid long starting struggle, the engine needs to start right away to prevent damage from lack of oil in certain components by pre-filling the carburetor with fuel and verifying the ignition components.
@@diegosilang4823 Eventually the washer will get messed up. They are only a few cents, or a bag of them for cheap. Fibre washers seal by crushing, copper washers seal by deforming. I have been known to reuse the washer because I forgot to buy some, or forgot the correct size... that's just poor planning on my part. I always wince when those guys start engines that have been sitting for decades, usually before they've even done an oil change. I'd definitely do it differently, and cheap dollar store oil is probably far better than the tar that is probably in those engines. Splash lube and an old ticker pump will lube the engine just fine even just turning it over, as long as they are working with actual oil.
@@Chris_the_Muso _TOTALLY!_ All those Barn Find episodes where they expect decades old Bendix gears to just crank machinery that hasn't moved at all for ever. They stick booster packs on old batteries and wonder why it isn't race-ready. _SHOCKING!_
@@diegosilang4823 Obviously you two forgot to explain, Why it Is Very Important, to Pre-Fill an oil filter, or if the filter is Horizontal, than you can solve this problem by cranking the engine with disconnecting the jets, or crank sensor. Because, if you installl an empty filter , than at the starting the air in the oil filter is pushed further into the oilways and than into the bearings, and so at this time before the new oil comes in, and before the pressure builds up, the bearings are running "on air", which means, that between the surfaces comes the air instead of the lubricant, and we alll know, that air is NoT lubricating Anything, but only drying everything. So, at that crucial time, the bearings are heavily exposed to the seizing, Especially, if a car was standing for a longer time . And, there the pre-lubricating comes at it's shine : either by at least pre-cranking until the pressure light turns off, or by pre-fueling an vertical oil filter ( if there is not possibility of vertical installing an oil filter) or even better : doing Both of these Very Beneficial measures, for keeeping your crankshaft bearings running excellently for Many years, or Many Decades with No problems . Now go, and repair alll your mistakes done so far on aaallll wehicles which you blind uneducated deadsouls touched !!! ! !!! Peace with you until than.
One additional thing: When removing the old filter, you MUST verify the rubber gasket came off too. (make sure it's not still on the car) Otherwise, when you install the new filter, you'll have two gaskets that are double stacked....very bad.
*_VERY_* bad!!! This happened to my dad once on a large truck ("18 wheeler" large) & held fine for a bit before blowing the middle of the gaskets out ~20-30 minutes from "home base." A newer driver turned this unfortunate mistake into a complete engine overhaul. This an obvious failure, with oil & smoke spewing from the engine. Should have stopped immediately & waited for the wrecker/mechanic but the !&@$?&# idiot keep driving. My dad gets there & the entire side the truck & trailer were black with oil & the engine was seized up tight. Driver: "It was too cold outside to stop & wait for a wrecker/mechanic." Which he was forced to do anyway. He would have needed to wait all of 30 minutes for my dad to reach him. Guy was fired right then & there on the side of the road. Had to stand out in the cold waiting for the cab that was called by the owner to arrive.
I was doing an oil change for about the 3rd time in my life and I didn't realize that the old gasket getting stuck on the car was a thing.... The moment I turn on the car, all hear is the oil gushing out. Took a look at the new oil filter and surprise surprise double gasket!
I have this happen when working as a mechanic at a dealership what a mess. I noticed what looked like a quick spray of something when a Continental 520 cubed 6 horizontal cylinder engine started out on the parking ramp. I sent a student over to investigate, and it was engine oil. Sent a student running to Dispatch to stop the takeoff of this aircraft, but because of no oil spray visible during the taxi, Dispatch was a little hesitant I through my 30 some years teaching around and insisted there be no takeoff. The end result was, there was two oil filter gaskets, the old and the new one. With no oil pressure, engine not operating the two gaskets were not in perfect alignment, but with engine oil pressure build at startup the two gaskets would align and seal. no telling what volume would have leaked out on takeoff with even higher oil pressure. Sobering lesson for the mechanic and all of us on carful maintenance.
Amateur tip: I wrap a gallon size ziplock bag around the filter as I unscrew it - it catches all the oil. I used this trick on my 2001 Burban, 2007 Acadia and 2007 Mustang. I just used this trick on my first oil change of my 1989 Toyota Supra Turbo - the filter is in an a awkward and tight place - and it worked like a charm. Love your channel BTW - very informative and inspiring.
I just punch a hole in the bottom of the filter with the drain pan underneath. Go do something else for 15-20 minutes then come back and remove the filter. No mess.
When you take off the filter, when the oil starts to pour out, just let it pour. There is no need to try to get it off while it is pouring out and getting the oil poured down your arm. Wait fir the oil to stop pouring then remove the filter. Then when putting back the filter, it is very important to follow the tightening instructions which usually is in the filter. 3/4 to a full turn after the gasket meets the surface. Do not over tighten because when you do your next oil change you can possibly take off the bolt that the filter screws onto. And it could be a pain to take off. Plus always check the old filter for the gasket. Make sure it is on the old filter and not still stuck to the motor. If it is and you double gasket, it will leak out almost all that 6 quarts, when you start it. And it will leak out fast. You really should address these things. They are very important
My dad used to puncture the bottom of the filter with a nail and let the oil drain out first. I'm too lazy to do that so I just get it off but I also won't do it on a hot engine.
A couple things I would do differently. I wouldn’t put all 6 quarts in. I go about half a quart shy, and adjust the level based on the reading on the dipstick. I don’t know if you skipped it, but if you jacked your vehicle up and it is not level, you want to lower it back down and make sure it is level when checking the oil level. You should also give your oil time to drain. Remove the drain plug first, then take about 30 minutes to go over all your other checks, don’t put it back in till you’ve replaced the filter. You can often get an additional half to 3/4 of a quart of the old oil out by giving it more time.
@@WFSmith Most shops are changing oil while it's at or near operating temperature. Personally, I won't change oil in a car with a cold engine. With the engine at operating temperature, it generally takes about 5 minutes to drain the oil. You'll never get all of the oil out, regardless of how long you wait. Where will always be some amount of oil trapped in the engine. This is actually by design.
This drains from the pump, which increases dry run time after cranking. Also, there’s another quart trapped in depressions in the engine. Stop wasting your time and harming the engine
4:25. To avoid taking a shower in engine oil, unscrew the filter until oil starts to come out. Remove your hand and let it drip into the pan until very little drip remains. Then unscrew the whole filter.
That and take a paper towel or shop towel and fold it twice to quarter it. Use that centered under the filter when you screw it and it will catch most of the residual oil. And the paper towel gives you better grip on the slippery filter.
Two things amongst many I learned growing up with a mechanic for a dad. 1) that no matter what, you are always holding the flashlight wrong.... 2) how to change my oil
I used to love being the “go-fer” for my dad when I was little. You’re absolutely right about 1 and 2!! I learned fast what tools were, esp when the tool box was over 100 ft from the garage and down stairs to the cellar. I’m 65 now, a retired engineer executive, and LOVE working with my hands, DIY!!!
My dad always got irritated when I watched him growing up. He would say, "Go inside and help your mother." I'm afraid to work on my own vehicle. I don't want to mess something up on my only vehicle that I need to get to and from work.
@@dperr338 RUclips videos are useful when you're trying to know something that you ignore or know nothing about it, sometimes at the auto parts you get some good advice if you ask them, obviously, you're at your own risk but that does not mean you can't learn a thing or two
Don't put the drain plug back in until AFTER you have removed the old filter. On some cars, more dirty oil comes out of the drain plug hole after the filter is loosened!
Not practical in most cases. Every car I've ever owned has the drain plug and the filter far enough apart that I would have to have two separate drain pans. Not worth the extra hassle.
On some vw cars there is a button in the oil filter housing you must depress several times to expel dirty used oil captured in the oil filter housing whilst draining.
@@nodak81 don't drop the oil and the filter at the same time ( as shown here) then you can move the catchment bowl from oil drain to filter area without spilling oil on the floor!
For those who didn't notice, he had put small magnets on his old oil filter. Those are meant to hold down the iron particles which would've otherwise circulated within the engine.
I noticed those too. Been looking for some sort of oil filter magnetic ring to go on it, but small high magnetic chocolate chips seem to work too I guess?
@chris jones is there an actual scientific study on the effective of this? I actually put a large speaker magnet on my filter on a 91 firebird and the engine was toast at 90K.
6:05. If you look closely at the container, they usually show that you should hold it the other way, with the spout at the top. This allows air to get into the container as you pour and it practically eliminates that glug glug glug you get when the air is having difficulty getting into the container.
Most of these "Do-It-Yourself" oil change videos hold the container, as you pointed out here, incorrectly. If they can't even pour the oil correctly (when the container actually shows the correct way), how can you trust anything that they say? Also, in this case he replaced the oil plug before removing the old oil filter. This is also wrong.
That’s the correct way to do an oil change. I totally agree with you on doing it yourself. I’ve had all kind of bad experiences with dealers overfilling my engine or not putting enough oil in it. Unfortunately most new cars give you no choice but to let them do the job. Keep up the good work my friend.
One tip is: to remove the filter, if you don't have the tool, you can use sandpaper in your hand, and that will help a lot. If it's too tight and doesn't come out, you can go through it with a screwdriver and turn it (it's the last option). Recommendation: always be fixed there are no leaks, especially by the filter. And never make the mistake of putting oil without having put the screw or the filter, because it usually happens a lot.
Just an important heads up... Always point the floor jack straight out away from the vehicle (at a right angle). Lower your jack just to the stand and lock the jack in place as a back up, because like the guy in this video you may be using a jackstand that has been recalled, due to poorly machined components. You can't get caught slipping if you're always evading & gripping!
In the early eighties they. Jiffy lube tighten the drain bolt so tight I had to buy a new oil pan and drain bolt . . I would never ever have a shop change my oil . Any shop
Funny thing is, oil is oil. The vehicle can't tell what brand you're putting in it, it's only caring about the weight and capacity. As long as you're putting in the correct weight and capacity, your vehicle will be just fine. Oh and of course change it on the regular like you're supposed to.
I did that and a full tune up too: spark plugs, air filter, cabin air filter and upper oxygen sensor. The tune up was less $80, pretty good deal! Oil changes are super easy, took me like 20 minutes max.
I usually do my own oil changes but occasionally I will let a 'shop' do it, like if I'm getting new tires. The last time I did that, I noticed after doing the next oil change myself, that the tire shop never replaced the oil filter. I put a piece of tape on the oil filter that I last installed and the tape was still there when I did the next oil change. It was there twice as long as it should have been. I feel better knowing that I'm using a high quality oil and filter when I do it myself. No exceptions.
Good video at a very general level. For those who are novices, it would be worth adding a comment about the possible need to change the sum plug copper washer, especially if it is a crush type, also, note the possibility that the old rubber seal on the old oil filter may stay stuck on the mount - if this happens then the new filter will not fit properly and oil will go everywhere (this has happened to me), and finally, I couldn't believe you would drive the truck without checking the oil level first??
@@TheOzthewiz Are those damn engines designed to burn oil? I work at an oil change shop and those engines are always low when they come in for a change, some of the most gunked up to.
@@OldSlabSides Chevrolet decided to use 'low friction' piston rings to improve gas mileage at the expense of low oil mileage. Chevy owners were told to check oil level at EVERY gas fill up. So, if I owned an EQUINOX, I would carry a gallon of oil in the vehicle at ALL TIMES!!!!
Great video! Small tip: removing the filter often lets a little oil escape back into the oil-sump, so I suggest reinstalling your drain plug after you removed the filter, when everything is open and drained out
I agree, so many people replacing the oil filter after draining the oil is just wrong.. I always replace oil filter first and then drain the oil. Removing the oil filter breaks the fluid lock(prime) in oil pump and that oil goes down to the oil pan. And I always refill the oil filter with oil too to prevent the engine from pumping dry for a few seconds.
you will never get all the old oil out worrying about a tablespoon of used oil is not worth it. my impala has 265,000 still going . i am using straight 40 wt in it after 200,000.
In the interest of time efficiency, take out the oil plug, then while the oil is draining take off the filter and replace. More productive use of time than playing with yourself in the interim.
Another thing to do is to let the engine warm up slightly to get all the cooties into suspension, then drain it. And if you are going to fill the filter before installing it, best to pour the oil into the outer ring of holes so the new oil will go through the filter medium before reaching the engine bearings. If you pour the oil into the center hole and there is some dirt introduced that will go into the engine without being filtered. Good video, Hoss!
Here's a good reason why it's best to change your own oil! First of all, I'm 63 now and have always changed my own oil. I live in Az where it gets extremely hot in the summertime. I received a flyer in the mail from a Honda dealership for a free oil change and vehicle inspection. Since it was about 110 degrees out I figured I'd save myself from a very sweaty oil change in the garage and actually go to the dealership for a free one while I sat in their waiting area drinking their iced coffee in 78 degrees. What could go wrong?? After about a 1.5 hr wait the service man comes and gets me and says all ready and gives me the inspection results. Nothing really stood out in the list other than needed a new drive belt which i knew anyway and always do myself. I get home and of course I open the hood to check the oil color ro make sure it looks good and it's filled to the correct level. I couldn't believe what I saw. The oil was very dark and very obvious that the oil change had not been done! By the way, I'm an aircraft mechanic for a major airline, 32 years, and I think I can tell if an oil change has been done or not! I was furious! All that time going to the dealership and waiting and all for nothing! I decided to drain some of the dirty oil into a little plastic container ro have as evidence. I put some clean oil into another like container so I'd have the dirty and clean oils side by side in little containers so I could go back to the dealership to prove my case. I arranged a meeting with the head honcho and went in and told him I was treated like an idiot and done wrong by their dealership. Told him I'm a 30 yr jet mechanic for the world's largest airline and they pulled the oil trick on the wrong guy! Lol. I can laugh at it now looking back on it all! Anyway, he set me up with the service dept manager who wanted to drain the oil in my Honda to see for himself. He came to the same conclusion obviously and apologized repeatedly. I told him I want you to make it right or I'm going to the media and I'll let over 80,000 employees at my airline know about your maintenance practices here at your wonderful dealership. I had a list of things I wanted done complementary by them. The guy was very nice and cooperative and he really did take care of me as I asked for a lot of items to be done free of charge. New serpentine belt, new spark plugs, trans fluid change, brake fluid flush, valve adjustment, OIL CHANGE, cooling system flush, new air cleaners, and tires rotated and an alignment. When I got home I obviously proceeded to check everything that I could ro make sure it had all been done. I was happy to see the engine compartment looked like new! They had even washed that and I even had new high end windshield wipers installed! Moral of the story is that I'll be doing all my oil changes and everything I can do myself as long as I can continue to crawl under my vehicles. Definitely won't take the bait for a free oil change no matter how hot it is outside! I'm sure I'm not the only one they have done that to, no doubt! More reasons to do your own oil changes and beware of ripoff dealerships!
I had a similar deal years ago with a Goodyear Tire/Service shop. Took my Isuzu Trooper in for differential oil service using one of their discount coupons that was sent in a mail flyer. Dropped the Trooper off and in about an hour got a call from them telling me I needed new shocks. The shocks on my Trooper were literally 1 week old as I had installed them myself. The service manager blubbered an apology…”we saw some oil on the shocks” which I called bullshit on. This was back in the 80’s before the bully pulpit power of the internet. I should have threatened to turn them into California’s Bureau of Automotive repair…but I was young and unworldly. Try that on me again now! I’m 66 and change my own oil…I even put a remanufactured engine in my 2003 Subaru two weeks ago in my driveway all by myself. Yee ha!
I also was scammed by Honda dealership in San Jose , Ca . A few years back I too received a coupon for $ 10.99 oil change and free check up on my 2000 CRV . Waited an hour and 20 minutes and received a maintenance report stating a bad oil pan gasket and two missing bolts !They said the dealership would take care of it for $400 bucks whaaat ?? Well I said no thank you and went home after I paid $10.99 . Upon my own inspection I jacked up my CRV found the oil pan pretty clean with two missing bolts . Now exactly 5000 miles earlier I changed this oil myself , just like I have done many times on my own and family cars, I new that the bolts were not missing then and not loose either. So what to do ? I had no evidence to accuse them of removing them and claiming they must have fallen out . So everyone should beware when you get free or cheap oil and inspection offers you can also be scammed 💰😡and it is better to not be lazy and chance a cheap deal when you know how to do it yourself like I learned.
Same here Ethan. A quick lube type place stripped out the oil pan bolt and installed a “piggy back” plug that leaked a bunch. When I discovered the issue and took it back to them, they denied they did it, even though I only changed my oil at that place the last 5 oil changes! Crooks. I’ve done it myself ever since and saved a lot of money.
@@BigPuffyNipples He found one torn. That was the noise I complained about when I took the car to the shop. Over the next 4 hours he came back and told me that he found each of the other 3 torn. I call bullshit on that. If you are a mechanic, don't invite such bullshit calls.
I don't know if I missed it, but it is best to warm up the vehicle (and the oil in it) for a few minutes before turning off and starting the job. Oil will flow out more easily when warm and any thicker "sludge" will drain more thoroughly. Just make sure you haven't got it too hot by putting a hand on the filter first! I also leave it with the drain plug out and the filter off for 20mins or so, before putting the plug and new filter back - you'll get even more of the thicker deposits out this way (you're not paying for someone's time). Obviously the other comments re the plug washer and the filter gasket are critical too. Make sure the vehicle is on level ground when determining the final oil level by dip stick.
I've been changing my oil for years. Saves a little money, I know it was done right, but mostly prevents someone else from overtightening the filter. Had it happen every time I had the oil changed by someone else. On a side note: I just noticed your jack stands. If they were bought at Harbor Freight you might want to check to see if they were recalled for collapsing with a vehicle on them.
@@Nikkk6969all of these products are made in the same Chinese factories so there’s very little difference in things like jack stands. The problem with the HF stands was their tooling needed to be updated because the teeth were rounded. Their new jack stands are top notch and have a locking pin.
Good presentation. I can tell you've done this job many times before. I'd like to ad a couple more tips for novices at this job. 1.Make SURE you only use the proper weight and service schedule oil. Don't guess. If you engine is specified for Dexos oil, use ONLY Dexos labeled oil. 2.Flatten out a cardboard box and place it under the drain pan. Have enough cardboard extending beyond the pan, at least a foot in every direction but more is better. Dirty black oil is difficult to get completely off your driveway. Always have a rag handy under there. 3. ALWAYS wear safety glasses when working under a vehicle no matter what you are doing. The tiniest spec of crud in your eye can be quite painful and it is everywhere under a vehicle. 4.Drain plug: Only use the right size combination wrench (1 open end and 1 box end) to remove/install the plug (a socket wrench is OK also if it is the right size, short ratchet only). DO NOT use an adjustable wrench, vise grips or pliers. I would caution novice mechanics to be very careful installing the drain plug. Do not over torque. Snug and a tug should be plenty of torque. Cross threading the plug is a very common mistake doing this job. That's why they sell oversize, self tapping plugs at auto parts stores that may or may not leak. Avoid this conundrum. 5.Also, I wouldn't use the long neck funnel except when filling trans oil. A short funnel drains thru faster. The oil bottles are designed so that if you pour the oil out with the opening of the bottle with the opening higher than the rest of the bottle (counter intuitive I know), you don't get that glug, glug, slosh. This is the design intent of the bottle. You can pour it out faster and have more control of the oil flow. 6. NEVER use the oil filter wrench to install the filter. Hand tight ONLY. 7.After you have all but about the last half of a quart in the motor, start the engine for about 30-45 seconds then shut off. Wait about 10 minutes for all the oil to drain down from upper areas inside the engine to the oil pan. Check the oil and top off carefully. NEVER over fill an engine with oil beyond the intended capacity. It can cause oil seal leaks and on some engines oil consumption/smoking. If it calls for 5 quarts and you just dump in 5 quarts, you can overfill the oil because all the old oil may not have drained out or the new oil filter may have a slightly different capacity than the one you took off. Better to be slightly short of full than to over fill. 8. Wipe away any spilled oil off of engine and any other component it my have spilled on. Make sure oil fill cap is installed correctly and tight, same for dipstick. Thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water. Sorry this is longer that I expected but in 50 years of working on cars I have made or fixed every one of these mistakes at least once. Work smarter, not harder.
Thank you. The suggestion about checking the refilled oil after the fourth quart (on a nominal five-quart system) is good. Especially impressive is your caution about skin contact with new or especially used oil. Used motor oil contains known carcinogens.
@@bobgreene2892 Contact dermatitis will show up long before any cancer. Imagine the skin peeling off your hands and itching all day long as if you had athletes foot on your hands. Nitrile gloves are a good choice but thorough hand washing immediately after should suffice. Oil changes seem like a pretty easy job but only if you pay attention to several little details will you avoid the many minor catastrophes that can happen.
@@x-man5056 1. Are nitrile gloves gasoline-resistant? My own experience while wearing a nitrile-type glove is the glove quickly falls apart. 2. Although I tried to follow your counsel on cautiously adding the final quart of oil, the dipstick's markings were not easily read. After checking the oil for proper appearance, I gradually emptied all but 1/4 quart of a 5 quart jug into the crankcase (after having started the engine briefly to check for leaks).. Problem-- on the next dipstick check, the oil was over the FULL line (ie. to the first "L" in FULL, which I estimate to be 1./4 quart). At first, I tried to ignore the small over-fill, concluding I could burn the excess off quickly on this 235,000 mile 3.8L engine (though it is not an oil burner). But I have decided to drain the crankcase by an estimated 1/4 quart, until the oil rests exactly on the FULL mark (in a cold engine). In case this happens again, are there kits which allow the excess clean oil to be sucked up and out of the engine through the oil filler port? That would seem ideal, since the oil level can be checked easily as I proceed. (Yes, I tried snaking a long vinyl tube into the oil filler port, but it was blocked about halfway down.) 3. The dipstick had four intervals, to make the translation to quarts of oil volume easier. But a 1/4 interval on the dipstick does not represent 1/4 quart, as I discovered when I adjusted the oil level. Why did GM do this for the Buick 3.8L engine dipstick? (Buick engineers arranged the oil drain plug and filter superbly for easy access, so they know what they are doing. But the dipstick reading remains a problem.) 4. Finding a non-synthetic oil for a high-mileage engine is difficult for the Castrol brand. In your experience, would adding synthetic oil to an engine which previously had used conventional cause oil burning or leaks?
@@bobgreene2892 1. Yes, Nitrle gloves are gas resistant. You may have been using very thin gloves. Use 5-7mil Nitrile gloves for automotive maintenance, 7 mil preferred.. Regardless, you should not be immersing your hands in gas. Do not use gas for a solvent. 2.Oil dipstick marking may not be accurate on any vehicle. Also, marks on oil containers may not be accurate. If you were at 1/4 quart low on the dipstick, you should have put in a little less than a 1/4 quart, waited a few minutes for the oil to run down to the bottom of the crank case, recheck the oil level. Add more oil judiciously as necessary. When you are at or near the full mark stop. If you go over the full mark slightly, you should be fine, but avoid repeating this. If you over fill by a pint or more, remove the excess oil, particularly on later model, 4 cylinder engines or small crankcase 6 cyl. They have smaller crankcases and are therefore less tolerant of being over filled. 3.Yes there are vacuum devises that can remove oil through the dipstick tube but you shouldn't need one. You can get a large hypodermic syringe and some clear tubing for this purpose if you need to. 4. For conventional oil, there are many name brands that work equally well as long as you change them regularly. As long as the oil has the correct service rating it will be fine. I use Valvoline High Mileage oil in my econo box. There is generally no issue of concern adding synthetic oil to conventional oil for topping off the crankcase.
@@x-man5056 Thank you for that! 1. Soon, I plan to loosen the oil filter on this 3.8L 1998 Buick LeSabre, and cautiously let it dribble excess oil into a drain pan, below. Since the oil level observed depends on engine temperature, with residual oil in a warm engine lingering in the filter and upper engine oil passages, is oil level ordinarily checked when the engine is warm or cold? A cold engine condition seems more accurate. BTW, I have not run the engine very far, except for in-city driving a short distance, and under 40mph. 2. Appreciation for tip on handling gasoline-- I'll buy thicker nitrile gloves, immediately. Could you elaborate on the concern with using gas as a solvent-- say for cleaning paint brushes (aside from the ventilation and flammability hazard)? 3. With oil changes, an extended or high-mileage oil supposedly "rejuvenates" rubber and other seals. While that claim may be exaggerated, there are products made specifically for seal preservation-- the product "AT-205", among them. Do they merit consideration, even at extra cost over regular, seal-protecting oil additives? 4. Changing oil regularly seems even more important than the type/formulation of oil used. Micro-grit, acids and other contaminants quickly transform oil into a destructive milling machine, increasing rate of engine wear. Prevention (on a budget) means buying a cheaper oil and filter, but changing every 3,000 miles or so.
I learned how to change oil when I was 10 years old. Cause growing up my parents couldn't afford to pay someone to change it. As well as doin tune ups and fuel filter and any other repairs we could do with basic hand tools. Glad I learned how at a young age. I've always done my own repairs and oil changes all of my life.
You did a great job simplifying the job. I suggest you add several important factors. While under your vehicle, this is an excellent opportunities to look around for possible problems not noticeable from above! Second, and very important, after filling the engine, run the engine for approximately 5 mins, while looking under the vehicle for possible oil leaks. They do occur even to the best!
Two things you should have done, first Check the oil level of the dip stick to see if your engine is somehow consuming oil, if the oil is low by a couple of quarts before you drain the oil, see if the engine is leaking oil, look for spots of oil on the drive way, or if the engine is eating oil. you may need to change oil a little more frequently. because of slightly worn engine rings, also look at the condition of the oil. see if it is more dirtier than normal, also check the engine oil level after the engine has run for a few minutes to make sure that the oil level is on the money.
@ابو غالي الزهراني Lol, no He's joking. They so make 10 and 20 Thousand mile oils now but I'd never go that far between changes 5,000 tops, I don't care what the oil manufacturers says.
I was at a major repair shop hanging out at the garage door waiting for my truck. I watched them take an empty 50 gal. barrel away and replace it with a new one. I could see the label said it was 5w-30 conventional oil. They simply put a magnet label that said 5w-30 synthetic oil over the real label. Change your own oil.
Great video. You covered filling the new filter with fresh oil, very important. I also do a few things that was taught to me many years ago. 1)Remove the oil fill cap while draining the old oil. Helps with draining the old oil. 2) Let the old oil drain (drip) out for at least an hour. 3) Replace the drain plug gasket and make sure the old gasket off the old oil filter didn't stick on the engine. 4) If the fill cap is on the valve cover, fill slowly. Baffles, rocker arms, etc. can cause oil to spill out onto the engine. 5) Most modern engines take an odd amount of oil, i.e. 6.2 quarts, 5.5 quarts etc. Add the lowest even number of quarts, i.e. 5 quarts in an engine that holds 5.5, or 6 quarts in an engine that holds 6.2, etc. Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Shut off and check oil level after 15-20 minutes. Gradually add oil and check dipstick to the correct level. 6)Recycle the old oil. Places like Autozone will take old oil and used filters. If it sounds like I'm a little OCD about my vehicles, it's because I am. :-)
@Isaiah Juan The chances are slim but if there is something in the oil container from the factory it could cause problems. I made that response because people post what they think is the best for their cars so if you think pre-filling the oil filter is better than not pre-filling than pouring oil into the perimeter holes is also better. I have never pre-filled an oil filter. It is also a better choice to have an engine oil funnel with a screen, now any impurities will be caught in the mesh and not enter the engine. It doesn't`t take much clog a passage with today's small engines.
Prefilling oil filter is not recommended anymore; I checked with a filter manufacturer. Thing is, that way you can introduce impurities e.g. that aluminum foil from the bottle into the "filtered" part of the oil system and this will go directly into the engine. The oil pump will push the oil through the new filter within 1 second, so really no need to prefill anything.
@@maxkrug2000 Using your theory then impurities can be poured into the top of the engine when refilling oil at any time. I don't pre fill my filters but I do use a funnel with a mesh screen every time. I have filtered impurities, plastics, etc. while doing oil changes.
In some cases, it also might be a very good idea to wear safety glasses while draining your old oil. For both the filter and drain pan with the drain plug. Also, let your engine cool as much as possible before changing your oil. If not, that oil can be HOT as F sometimes lol. I am speaking from experience because I used to work at Valvoline Oil change.
This is very true. After 2 oil changes at a local quick lube that starts with a W, the tech says "there's alot of sludge under the cap." He showed me the cap and yellow sludge. Since then I always change the oil myself. Convenience isn't always worth it. Never had sludge build up problems again. Couldn't even say if they actually changed the oil at all. Now I know for sure I got 5 clean quarts and a new filter all of my liking.
It's from short tripping your car, they didn't do anything wrong, moisture in the crankcase doesn't burn off because the engine doesn't have enough time to heat up to temperature.
DIG IT!!! Being A Female... I ALWAYS Wonder...If My Oil Changes...Or ANYTHING...Is Done RIGHT...By The Hands Of These Mechanics...Who Love To Lie And Take Corners -Eh. Changing The Oil...Appears To Be A Very Simple-Enough Task. I Would Not Mind Doing It -Myself, But...I Don't Have The Mobility To Do It @66 Yrs. Old. However, My Age Is Not The Problem...My Mobility Capabilities -ARE. Good Video...TFS!!! 🙂
i always made sure i stuck with the exact manufacturers oil filters and not a diffrent brand. like my mustang called for motorcraft oil filter and THATS the only brand i used. my thought was that if i start using a different brand , then it might not fit exactly right and could end up with problems down the road. i thought "better safe than sorry"
Never trust a quick lube shop either you change your own engine oil or take it to the dealership, you'll pay more at the dealership, at least the job is done right, if you have a good running vehicle don't short change the maintenance you'll regret it later.
The major flaw in this video is suggesting you can get 15k oil and be good for that long when in fact that is a terrible idea, largely because you have to change the filter much sooner than that.
@@garygermain2333 believe it or not drove 120 miles that next day,it leaked next day as wifey took it down the road only to see a line of oil yes she came back and said somethings wrong
i just did my first oil change, which was not that messy as i suspected as i used R. Kirkwood's tip about zip lock bag which definately reduced my mess to quite a lower level. thank you so much for such an informative yet easy to understand video.
2 suggestions, you can avoid the oil mess while removing the filter if you let it drip out before removing it completely. You can avoid an oil mess while filling if you turn the bottle the other way. Thanks for sharing!
Ive also seen people get a hammer and punch/screwdriver and poke a hole in the bottom to drain the filter. Either way, bad design, and I much prefer my tundras diagonal filter. Vertical top mounts are even worse though.
I agree 100% with this guy , do your own oil change . How many F150 EcoBoost owners lost their skid plates or the dealer forgot to put it back properly .
What about them refilling with mineral oil when synthetic is required or not changing your filter because well they don't have the correct filter for your car or cracking your oil pan, or underfilling or overfilling. So as you can see lots of reasons to avoid quick lube shops including the stealership.
One of the most simple maintenance tasks you can do on your car but probably the most vital. I always change my own oil and you're right...it is very rewarding
I normally have my oil change done at OIL CHANGERS. This is an open pit stop. You stay in your car and you can see them open pour in the correct type and brand of oil. I also bring my own filter, and ask them to give me the old filter.
Yup and even if you bring your own new oil they’ll still put their own cheap crap in it and turn around and sell the oil you brought in on eBay. Why I always would make them give me the empty bottles afterwards
@@Lawless187indika The oil pan is usually on the passenger side just under the right front wheel. The drain plug should be at the lowest point toward the rear of the car. The bolt is probably 14,15 mm or 9/16in. size, but you may want to look that up.
@@marcosramirez5084 I agree. Service stations and quick lube spots have their place. My only point is a lot of those guys are inexperienced, know next to nothing about doing a proper oil change, and they don’t care about your car. On top of that, for the money you give them for a bottom shelf oil and filter, you can do a full synthetic oil change with a quality filter and have money left over for lunch.
It's definitely good to do but I put in the exact amount needed per manufacturer spec and checked for leaks underneath. The dip stick will only show true reading after the engine has been run then off for about 15-20 mins to give the oil a chance to accumulate back into the pan...
Arne Maeschaelck yep I’ve seen a few peoples oil filters leak and one guys actually fall off from not being tightened correctly. I really thing he should’ve said something in the video about that and checking the level
1ROAD Manufacturer book always said first warm up vehicle and drain then put the amount of oil showing for the engine and always check dipstick and other thing is no book tells to fill the oil filter before the procedure. I think you can’t be most better than a Japan engineer.
Always check the dipstick before starting to be sure the oil level is registered. Pouring in 5 quarts without realizing the drain plus isn’t in happens. Run it until warm, let it sit 5 minutes, then check the level and top off as needed. Don’t assume the level just after filling is final.
hahaha first time i drove my car without watching and dropped of the ramp only one side luckily it didnt do a lot of damages and i changed both engine and transmission oil now i feel comfortable to do it again @@davidvogel6359
Chip Staggs (just discussion) imo, 1) no because the contaminants already settled at the bottom and will come out as it drains. If you warm it up you are recycling all of those contaminants. 2) you’re more at risk of getting burned if you accidentally touch the exhaust with like an elbow.
Pro tip, unscrew the oil filter first before drain plug. Or at least before you put the drain plug back in, extra oil often drains to the pan when you remove the filter
Yeah, not a pro tip. Not all oil filters are installed vertically, or in an accessable spot. The one's that aren't, will get oil everywhere while you're just letting it sit there and drain.
I am always shocked by my friends that never change their own oil. Even on my Harley Davidson I do it myself. The places that do oil changes don't hire MIT grads to change oil. Remember that. These kids can't even pull their pants up and you are trusting them with changing your oil. It takes 30 minutes at the most and you get the personal satisfaction that it was done right.
Problem is, modern cars have service reminders that go off on every start, and you need the right OBD2 tool to set the service flag. As in, potentially 200$ for an OBD2 tool.
@@centralintelligenceagency9003 I can't speak to every car, but I have owned mainly Toyotas and Fords. You can manually reset them and it only takes a minute. That is once you remember how to do it. It doesn't take an OBD2 tool, it just required you to manipulate some information screens on your car's dash.
I much prefer the term “depreciating asset”. Investment implies and suggests a possible profit will result from the expenditure. If you were fortunate or clever enough to resell the vehicle for a sum greater than the purchase price it would indeed be accurate to classify the transaction as an investment. Sadly, I’ve yet to pull that maneuver off.
Poor or not depends on what you use it for. An expensive vehicle sitting in garage and not being used much = poor A vehicle as per needs and decent prized which is used a lot and does a lot of work while still holding decent value = returns
@@mikecastellon3022 Not unless you utilize the vehicle to generate money like if you leased it out to somebody else, or you became a Lyft or Uber driver... etc. Then the vehicle is an investment. You might be losing money on the depreciation but if it's bringing in much more money than it's losing, then it's an investment, don't you think?
Hello Jimmy, thx you for sharing your knowledge. I can add to the procedure that before replacing the drain plug, you should go ahead with the oil filter & after replacing the new oil filter, replace the oil drain plug, in that way it will be more efficiently draining as much as you can the old oil. In my case, once I finnish my driving, the day before, I will begin draining the engine while still warm & the day after began the replacement of the new oil & filter. Thx again from Puerto Rico.
FRS JAKE gotcha. Is it already drained once removed? Just curious. The thing I said before was a tip I received from a friend. My filter is underneath and is in an awkward spot. I used to make a mess but then started using and awe and a plastic cup an no more mess
You should discuss the small magnets you have installed on the old filter. I know why they are there. But, others may not. Also it's a great time to look around at tie ends and grease fittings. Inspect shocks and ball joints ect. Some times problems are obvious. And you can save lots of money by finding a worn parts and tend to them before they completely fail. Preventing you from being stuck on the side of the road waiting of a tow truck.
you dont add them to the drain plug, you have to buy a new plug with the magnet attached. They are a waste of money. 100% of the oil goes thru the filter when it goes thru the oil pump. Engines are mostly made of aluminum. If you have flakes of steel coming off your crank shaft, pistons, rings... they will get captured by the oil filter before they can get into any place where they can do any harm.
Exactly how I feel about it! Ever since I started doing some of own service and oil changes, my vehicles run much better and I have peace of mind that the work was done properly and with the best quality fluids and parts. Dirty sometimes but worth it!
One thing he should have mentioned when jacking up your vehicle. Never rely on just your jack to hold the vehicle up. Use jack stands. Your seal on your jack can blow causing vehicle to drop.
Someone in my area passed away a while back. Working under the car, jack gave up, no one was home. I say for oil change, just use Ramps. Less headache.
Great video. However, the oil bottles are designed to be poured with the spout on the high side to allow for the free flow of air into the bottle as you pour. This avoids the "glug glug" you get at 6:10.
Thank you for confirming what I've been saying. I change oil with, brand, weight, amount and filter that I choose; tighten bolt safely, clean; inspect; check and take used oil to shop for recycling FASTER than just dropping off, let alone picking up, paying and arguing about my 'suggested repairs!'
You also know that the oil you prefer or want is going in there, not a cheap substitute for which you would be charged top dollar. Gotta say that I would also be putting the filter wrench on to give it a quater/half turn after replacement.
oh yes, sounds like a joke, but oem garages tend to just suck the oil out (leaving the mud in the pan) and don't even change the filter. What kind of ethic is this?
I use to hate taking my car in and they overtighten my oil filter and drain plug, snug on the filter and 22 inch pounds on the plug. I use a torque wrench, I have it because they wanted us to use it when I use to work a shop.
Love changing the oil on my Mercedes. I have a vacuum extractor that simply connects to the dipstick tube. Sucks it all out without spilling a drop. It’s how the engineers designed it to be done. Tests show it pulls more oil out that using the drain plug. Oil filter is up top of the engine, so that is easy peasey too. It’s fun! I look forward to doing it.
Good video. Still haven't done my own oil, but really should. I would think the last step should be checking the dip stick and confirming the level is correct. Going by the owners manual ensures you're not under filling it, but if some of the old oil didn't drain for some reason, I assume it's possible to overfill.
@@kenwittlief255 You must work at one of those quick lube places. Have you ever measured how much oil comes out once it starts to drip? It can often be half to 3/4 of a quart. After you remove the drain plug, find something else to do for about 30 minutes, a lot more oil will come out. Checking the oil level is much less a waste of time than draining or vacuuming out oil because you overfilled it.
Agreed, not just that they sometimes use power tools on the drain plug and over tighten eventually stripping the hole or under tighten causing leaks and I never know what they hell they putting in my car, even if I brought my own oil. Mechanics are legal criminals.
Very well-done vid, with many good points, you never really know what "bulk" oil quick lube shops, dealerships or even your local mechanic are using. Often cheap oil filters are being used as well. An added bonus you save yourself from the up-sell process when you do it yourself 👍🏽
Charged me $64 for "up to 5 quarts"... the best oil you can get is about $24 for 5 quarts and they used oil that was a little cheaper. The 2 best are: Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum and Pennzoil High Mileage Platinum. They used regular Pennzoil Platinum. They also used a $5 Pennzoil oil filter. The best oil filter is Wix XP. around $13. (depending on vehicle). So for $37, I can have the best oil and the best filter or for $64 I can have someone else use lower grade oil and a cheap filter. I don't mind paying for someone else to do the work, but when they use inferior parts and charge twice as much, that's when i have a problem.
I haven’t read all of the comments so this may have been touched on. I have been changing my own oil since I first owned a car in the late 60’s. I was always told to warm the engine to allow the oil to have the sediment that may have settled to be in suspension in the warm, hot oil so it drains with the oil, not remaining in the cold engine. Just be aware of the temperature of the oil so you don’t get burned. Also, after starting the motor after the change check for leaks from the filter and drain plug! I always checked, and was glad I did since one time my filter wasn’t installed correctly. I did check and see oil dripping as soon as I started the motor so no harm done except for a small oil spill. One thing I did learn from this video, and appreciate the tip, is to allow the oil to soak into the filter material, then top it off. I always filled the filter, but then immediately installed it.
I already know how to change my oil but, your video is so good that I just want to watch how to change the oil and learn again. Thanks for the great video!
Old oil filter: Just unscrew it till you see the first sign of oil. Leave it there to let oil fall down (move your hand out the way). Every few seconds unscrew some more. Then take it off. Don't just keep unscrewing it and smother your hand in oil.
Umm, if you don’t want to mess with an old oil filled filter, just puncture it with a Phillips screwdriver or similar object to drain the contents, then remove.
Agree with you Will. I do it exactly the way you describe it every time. Used oil is a carcinogen. You don't want used oil running down your arm. Not to mention if it runs all the way down to your armpit, it's a huge mess to clean up.
Instead of an auto parts drain bucket, I used a cheap plastic cat little box from Wal Mart. It's a little bigger, which helps catch oil from the drain and the filter.
One tip when changing engine oil, put the front of the vehicle on ramps, not only for safety reasons but also because it tilts the oil sump backwards towards the sump drain plug, which allows for all the oil to come out, whereas jacking up the car on one side makes the oil in the sump move away from the sump drain plug leaving a small amount of dirty oil remaining in the sump !
@@brucemiller9400 Number 3 cylinder burns some oil. Not enough to smoke, but I can smell it. Have to clean or replace spark plug every few months. I'm thinking bad valve guide seal...
I've been changing my oil for decades for multiple reasons. I own 5 vehicles so maintenance costs can climb. I can use a higher grade oil and filter than the oil change places use. My ramps are set up so I can do the job as fast as 15-20 minutes in some cars. My local car parts store takes the old oil so its convenient. I also do tune-ups, brakes and all minor jobs as a 65 yo DIY'er
Great Video.. One helpful tip on the oil filter removal is to puncture the bottom of the filter with a screwdriver so the oil can drain into the oil pan and no all over your hand...
Lol I have 1998 Toyota Camry the filter is on top all I have to do is drive my car for 10 minutes drain the oil and wait about 35 minutes and use my special oil filter removal cap and I have no oil spills the key is waiting at least 30 minutes one of the many reasons I love this freaking Toyota Camry. Easiest car to work on amazing.
@@blakeholder1017 . I know what you're saying , the reason I wait around 30 to 35 minutes is because my Toyota Camry has the oil filter on top and even with the engine being warm if I try to remove the oil filter let's say after 20 minutes of draining the oil, there will still be oil by the oil filter area and it can get very messy, believe me I've done this many times and I hated the mess when removing the oil filter, I actually found out by accident one day when I forgot to remove the oil filter after 10 minutes and I went out to remove it about a half hour later and surprise no mess when I removed the oil filter I was so happy, it works all the time I hated my Camry for that,now I love it the filter is so easy to remove with the special cap wrench that I bought at Walmart for 5 dollars a half inch ratchet with a long extension and out comes the oil filter, I just planned ahead, I go inside the house and do some stuff for about 30 or 35 minutes and then go outside and finish the job ,heck I'm working for myself I can take my time, of course if the oil filter was on the bottom I would just remove it after 5 minutes, nothing anyone can do to avoid a little oil spill. Lol
@@max41050 That makes a lot of sense especially if you were having that issue. I suppose that is one of the only issues with having your oil filter on top? Also that's awesome that you work for yourself!
I know for sure the the correct oil is being used. I know for sure my drain plug is not being overtorqued with an impact wrench. I know for sure my oil filter is not being under tightened or over tightened. I know for sure my old filter gasket is not stuck to the car. I know for sure the new one is being oiled. I know for sure my engine is never being accidentally started with no oil.
Another couple tips. I always run the engine for a bit and check for leaks. While it's running, I take a photo of the mileage and the oil & filter containers. Then I email myself those photos along with any other notes like the drain plug size and whether or not I changed the air filter. I often look up my email while shopping for the new oil and filter. Plus the email dates the oil change. It's kind of handy since I have 3 vehicles to take care of. Kind of nerdy but it works well.
I agree, especially if your vehicle is still under warranty. I always change my oil at 5k mile intervals, so there is very little chance of forgetting at what mileage it has on the last change. I also keep track of all parts and maintenance on a simple excel spread sheet, but I tend toward overkill. At least that's what the kids say.
I live in the Northeast and aside from you showing an oil change I cant believe how clean the under carriage is for a "03 vehicle. Usually after about two years a "new" car will show signs of surface rust on all the under side and the wheel wells about 5 to 7 years thanks to winter salt on the roads...
Yeah. I told my son for his first car, he needed to learn to change his own oil and for many reasons. Like he said in the video, it’s rewarding. I personally learned at age 16. So anyway my son listened to his friends to get his oil changed elsewhere. Most issues with that is you don’t know what kind of oil they use, how much is added, if the filter is changed and if it’s just done correctly. After my son had his oil changed, he drove his truck home. After about 4 days of driving, it started smoking, shaking and knocking. We checked the oil on the dipstick and it was 2.5 quarts overfilled. So we called the same shop and they said there’s no way it’s overfilled because they use a computer to fill it and there’s nothing they can do. Really?
Wow. Not only the mechanic in that place doesn’t know what he’s doing, but also the guy answering the phone doesn’t know what he’s talking about. These “computerized” garages may have an oil dispenser nozzle that lets the computer know how much oil was dispensed. This is good for the shop for tracking oil inventory, and preventing the staff stealing from the owner. (By-cash oil changes that didn’t get registered into the cashier ledgers) But such system does not limit the mechanic’s ability of dispensing 4qt, 6qt, 7qt, or 10qt. Maybe, just maybe, there is a software lock that limits a maximum of some 12qt per vehicle. But to say their computer decides exactly how much oil to dispense for each individual vehicle... is BS.
Why on earth would one use a computer for such a simple, mundane and straight forward task of checking the oil level in any equipment that requires lub oil? absolute BS and profoundly stupid.
Not to mention the guerrilla torque on your drain plug bolt and the oil filter so tight its welded to the engine frame. The poor guy who does the next oil change needs special tools to get them off without damaging anything.
It's good to be aware that oil from the inner part of the filter goes directly to the main bearings. Any contamination at this point can destroy a bearing and this is why some people (including manufacturers) are against pre-filling filters.
Dirt can just as easily fall in an empty filter as your screwing it on 🙄. If you ever owned a Ford 300 inline 6 cylinder with the oil filter on its side you’d understand why pre-filled. Ford dealers replaced the filter free 2 days after oil change as some filters would empty in an hour and engine would rattle with no oil pressure for 5 seconds EVERY time it started 😩
Thanks Jimmy Tip. Use a medium ziplock freezer bag pushed up over the filter after you loosten it a bit. Push the bag all the way up and slowly unscrew. The oil runs down into the bag. Works great on my 5.7 hemi where the filter is buried and drains on everything without the bag.
I realize this is 4 years old, but I have to take issue with a few things. 1. You didn't mention to set park brake, or chuck the rear tires. 2. To prevent an accidental oil spill on the ground or floor, I always place cardboard, or cloth or an old tarp under the engine. 3. DON'T take the oil pressure to mean it's filled correctly, it's not going to show if you're a quart low or high. Run the engine for a few minutes, shut off, let it sit another few minutes, then check the oil dip stick for correct fill by pulling it out, wipe off, dip back in all the way, then check again. Final note, check to make sure the OLD filter gasket is on the old filter when you take it off, if not, check for the gasket where the filter was, it may have gotten stuck there, you don't want to double gasket the filer. Picky? yeah, but it's done right!
I never screw my oil filter on “as tight as I can”. Screw the filter on until it makes contact and then only turn it about one 1/4 to 1/2 turn from there. Any tighter and you will have a mother of a time getting the old filter off (I never have to use a wrench to get my filters off, btw).I’ve been doing this for over 40 years and I learned this from mechanics I ran with back in the day. I will agree that doing your own oil change is a smart thing to do.
@@squidusn71 I've poured a quart of ATF in before starting the oil change and run it for 10 minutes. My dad told me forever ago that the high detergents in ATF cleans out the accumulated crud! I think I'll do it next change.
When you remove the filter wipe the flange off with a rag. If the gasket is stuck to it, you will find it. A clean flange makes a better seal for the new filter.
With fifty years of servicing engines myself , I've probably saved the price of a few new cars in labour and over-priced parts . I also don't get any Shop BS either !
In my 64 years of life I have had someone else change my oil twice. I get a satisfaction from doing it and a feeling of confidence that it was done right. Was the filter put on too tight or too loose? Was the drain bolt put on correctly? Was the correct oil installed? Was it even done at all? I'll keep changing my own oil and filter until I can physically do it any more!
@@woohunter1 I had the oil changed in Fairbanks, AK. Everytime I change oil it always takes 5 quarts! EVERY TIME! I get the Jeep back and the guy hands me a half quart that wouldn't fit. I ran out and checked the filter and oil level. New filter and oil is new and full. WTF.
Paul Smith I don’t blame you for changing your own oil one bit, that’s one reason why. I make sure I drain every last drop before I put the plug back in, I use good quality oil and filters. I’m very particular about all my stuff, worked to hard for it to be mistreated by someone that doesn’t care.
I took my car to a tire shop to replace one tire. The "mech" tried his hardest to put a 14" tire on my 15" wheel. I think the shop was trying to get rid of that last one tire. I didnt know much about cars then and if did, I would've gladly drove away from that place with one flat LOL.
Nice and clear. I always change my own oil and filter. Then I know it's been done and with quality products and not just any old rubbish the garage has on hand.
Tip: Leave the drain plug off and flush the system with some new oil. You might be surprised at how long it takes before clear oil starts draining out. Tip: Let it all cool before you start draining oil. Tip: Some vehicles may require them to be on level ground when adding fluids. Just down-jack when you're ready to fill. it's easier to reach Tip: No filter wrench? Use duct tape to get a better grip. Tip: Lube all the o-rings/gaskets. Tip: Clean the area around the filler cap before removing it to prevent dirt from entering system. Tip: Recheck everything after a period of driving time. Tip: Don't dump the old oil down the sewer... Filthy animals
Change the filter first and you can let it drop into the pan, much easier. Been changing oil for decades and just figured this out a year ago. Also hold the pan close to the drain bolt to eliminate spills when the oil first comes out.
I drain pan first then hand tight plug while changing filter. When done with the filter, remove plug again quite a bit more old oil drains out. I let it drain for a few more minutes before plugging it up to refill fresh…
I was always taking my car to The Shop for Oil Change every 5k and Pay for Good Quality High Price. and 4 week ago I did make a Oil Changed for my Car at Home And I realy surprise that Oil Filter look very bad. Thich Much very Dark Back old drity. Look like The Shop Never Change Oil Filtet for my Car for long time that could Destroy the Engine. and I decided to do my own Oil Chang at home. Now the sound of my Car engine is quite and running very good. Thanks for this Great Video.
I'm 62 years old and still enjoy crawling under my cars to change the oil. I use ramps btw. Much safer than jacks
I need to invest in some ramps.
Ramps are the tits
@@garethbaus5471 some plastic ones are well worth it
Ramps are the only way to go. Make the job so much easier
Yeah luckily I have a aspen on big rims so I just slide under with no jacking up,but I do still jack the front a little to give it extra drainage.
I was a Tech for 30 years and saw dozens of stripped out oil pan drain plugs and oil filters so tight they wouldn't come off . These are the reason I change my own oil at age 60 .
The lube guys were using a impact wrench
And they scratch your paint leaning on your car to change your filter and refill oil.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
I've been working at Walmart as an Auto Care Tech for going on 14 years, and I've seen more than 1 overtightened drain plug and oil filter as well. Hand tight on the filter with oil on the gasket will make the next filter removal much easier, just make sure to check and ensure the old gasket isn't stuck up on the oil filter mounting plate on the engine. Wiping off the mounting plate prior to mounting the filter will ensure it's gasket free and clean.
With the drain plugs, there are factory torque specs. The GM truck's for the most part, are all 18 ft lbs, even the modern 6.6L diesel engines. Fords vary from 17 to 20 lbs, and Chryslers vary from 20 to 25 lbs. The Fort 6.7L diesel is 32 lbs and the 6.7 Dodge diesel is 37 lbs.
@@zedzed5276 Some spray paint all over the oil pan. Must be to make up for the scratches.
Another tip from a mechanic. When you take off the fill cap place it up against the hood latch so if you forget about the cap after you've put all the oil in the engine, you won't be able to close the hood
I once drove around for months with my filker cap sitting next to the battery 😒
I'm a lubetech and I agree and disagree with this. Sometimes the hood latch hole is too wide and I've dropped a few caps through that hole.
If you that numpty you shouldn't be working on cars..
or do what I do, I just put a clean rag on my drivers seat and put the cap there. Also, I make sure the engine is good and warm when I go to change the oil. Looked like it was here as it flowed out pretty quick. But in colder weather, people often don't warm up their engines first.
I did that with my radiator cap and still managed to close the hood 😅
As a DIY guy, I have a few additional tips.
* Warm the engine up first. It doesn't have to be running temperature (scalding hazzard), but it will still flow out better if it's a little hot.
* Most (all?) Japanese engines have a horizontal filter. That's no problem and doesn't cause any issues. It's not doing your oil changes regularly that causes problems, If you have a vertical oil filter, prefill it by all means if it makes you feel better.
* Take both the sump plug and filter out and let it drain. You saw how much oil was retained in the filter receiver? you want as little of that dribbling back into your sump as possible.
* When you jack the car up look which way the sump plug goes. Jacking it one way will usually help the sump drain. The other way will make it retain more oil than it does otherwise... and yes, the design of most sumps will guarantee the retention of some dirty oil.
* A DIY job isn't under shop time constraints. Let it drain for half an hour... or whatever. Go and have lunch. The more dirty oil you get out, the less dirt there is in the engine.
* Take the 15,000 km between services as a suggestion. A fairly bad one, no matter what oil you use. Oil is relatively cheap, engines not so much. There's plenty of independent mechanics (like Scotty Kilmer) that suggest that short service intervals are good for your engine and will make it last much longer with greatly reduced wear.
* Always make sure the filter gasket has not stayed on the receiver when you take the old one off. It's possible for this to get left behind and result in double gasketing, which will lead to a leak and require you to re-do the job, when you eventually figure out what happened.
* The correct torque on a filter is to do it up so the gasket just meets the sealing surface, then turn it another 2/3. I've never had a leak doing this, and I've never needed a tool to get the old filter off either.
* Lastly, always replace the washer on your sump plug, and yes it should have one. Some manufacturers use a single fibre washer while others use a single copper washer. Keep a supply on hand for oil changes. The copper washers are better, however if the pan is dinged up and won't seal, a fibre wash might save you.
I had been reusing the drain plug washer, no problem so far. Prefilling may not be necessary unless the car had been sitting not running for more than a year and you decided to make an oil change before restarting the engine. if your car starts right away then it is a non issue, but some cars takes a little longer to start such as old carbureted cars. Uncle Tony's garage mentioned if the car had been sitting for more than a year, avoid long starting struggle, the engine needs to start right away to prevent damage from lack of oil in certain components by pre-filling the carburetor with fuel and verifying the ignition components.
@@diegosilang4823 Eventually the washer will get messed up. They are only a few cents, or a bag of them for cheap. Fibre washers seal by crushing, copper washers seal by deforming. I have been known to reuse the washer because I forgot to buy some, or forgot the correct size... that's just poor planning on my part.
I always wince when those guys start engines that have been sitting for decades, usually before they've even done an oil change. I'd definitely do it differently, and cheap dollar store oil is probably far better than the tar that is probably in those engines. Splash lube and an old ticker pump will lube the engine just fine even just turning it over, as long as they are working with actual oil.
@@Chris_the_Muso _TOTALLY!_ All those Barn Find episodes where they expect decades old Bendix gears to just crank machinery that hasn't moved at all for ever. They stick booster packs on old batteries and wonder why it isn't race-ready. _SHOCKING!_
@@diegosilang4823 Obviously you two forgot to explain, Why it Is Very Important, to Pre-Fill an oil filter, or if the filter is Horizontal, than you can solve this problem by cranking the engine with disconnecting the jets, or crank sensor. Because, if you installl an empty filter , than at the starting the air in the oil filter is pushed further into the oilways and than into the bearings, and so at this time before the new oil comes in, and before the pressure builds up, the bearings are running "on air", which means, that between the surfaces comes the air instead of the lubricant, and we alll know, that air is NoT lubricating Anything, but only drying everything. So, at that crucial time, the bearings are heavily exposed to the seizing, Especially, if a car was standing for a longer time . And, there the pre-lubricating comes at it's shine : either by at least pre-cranking until the pressure light turns off, or by pre-fueling an vertical oil filter ( if there is not possibility of vertical installing an oil filter) or even better : doing Both of these Very Beneficial measures, for keeeping your crankshaft bearings running excellently for Many years, or Many Decades with No problems . Now go, and repair alll your mistakes done so far on aaallll wehicles which you blind uneducated deadsouls touched !!! ! !!! Peace with you until than.
Horizontal oil filters are not unique to Japanese engines.
One additional thing: When removing the old filter, you MUST verify the rubber gasket came off too. (make sure it's not still on the car) Otherwise, when you install the new filter, you'll have two gaskets that are double stacked....very bad.
*_VERY_* bad!!! This happened to my dad once on a large truck ("18 wheeler" large) & held fine for a bit before blowing the middle of the gaskets out ~20-30 minutes from "home base."
A newer driver turned this unfortunate mistake into a complete engine overhaul. This an obvious failure, with oil & smoke spewing from the engine. Should have stopped immediately & waited for the wrecker/mechanic but the !&@$?&# idiot keep driving. My dad gets there & the entire side the truck & trailer were black with oil & the engine was seized up tight.
Driver: "It was too cold outside to stop & wait for a wrecker/mechanic." Which he was forced to do anyway. He would have needed to wait all of 30 minutes for my dad to reach him. Guy was fired right then & there on the side of the road. Had to stand out in the cold waiting for the cab that was called by the owner to arrive.
I was doing an oil change for about the 3rd time in my life and I didn't realize that the old gasket getting stuck on the car was a thing.... The moment I turn on the car, all hear is the oil gushing out. Took a look at the new oil filter and surprise surprise double gasket!
I have this happen when working as a mechanic at a dealership what a mess. I noticed what looked like a quick spray of something when a Continental 520 cubed 6 horizontal cylinder engine started out on the parking ramp. I sent a student over to investigate, and it was engine oil. Sent a student running to Dispatch to stop the takeoff of this aircraft, but because of no oil spray visible during the taxi, Dispatch was a little hesitant I through my 30 some years teaching around and insisted there be no takeoff. The end result was, there was two oil filter gaskets, the old and the new one. With no oil pressure, engine not operating the two gaskets were not in perfect alignment, but with engine oil pressure build at startup the two gaskets would align and seal. no telling what volume would have leaked out on takeoff with even higher oil pressure. Sobering lesson for the mechanic and all of us on carful maintenance.
Scotty Kilmer advice jajjaja couple weeks ago...
I did that once on my parent’s new driveway with my ‘73 Plymouth Duster when I was nineteen. Never made that mistake again.
Amateur tip: I wrap a gallon size ziplock bag around the filter as I unscrew it - it catches all the oil. I used this trick on my 2001 Burban, 2007 Acadia and 2007 Mustang. I just used this trick on my first oil change of my 1989 Toyota Supra Turbo - the filter is in an a awkward and tight place - and it worked like a charm.
Love your channel BTW - very informative and inspiring.
R. Kirkwood
That’s a brilliant idea...thanks!
I just punch a hole in the bottom of the filter with the drain pan underneath.
Go do something else for 15-20 minutes then come back and remove the filter.
No mess.
@@colehara thats assuming your filter is not seized to the engine block. Other wise your in for a huge problem
@@NoBSManagement
If the filter is seized to the block it still has to come off.
What's the difference???
@@colehara well for someone who doesnt kbiw what theyre doing it would be major problem dont ya think?
When you take off the filter, when the oil starts to pour out, just let it pour. There is no need to try to get it off while it is pouring out and getting the oil poured down your arm. Wait fir the oil to stop pouring then remove the filter.
Then when putting back the filter, it is very important to follow the tightening instructions which usually is in the filter. 3/4 to a full turn after the gasket meets the surface. Do not over tighten because when you do your next oil change you can possibly take off the bolt that the filter screws onto. And it could be a pain to take off.
Plus always check the old filter for the gasket. Make sure it is on the old filter and not still stuck to the motor. If it is and you double gasket, it will leak out almost all that 6 quarts, when you start it. And it will leak out fast.
You really should address these things. They are very important
obviously he loves the smell and for him its like moisturizing his skin.
@@crayfishtv lmao
Excellent tip
My dad used to puncture the bottom of the filter with a nail and let the oil drain out first. I'm too lazy to do that so I just get it off but I also won't do it on a hot engine.
Just tighten with hand to the point where you'd have to strain, check for leaks after starting. It's not rocket science
A couple things I would do differently. I wouldn’t put all 6 quarts in. I go about half a quart shy, and adjust the level based on the reading on the dipstick. I don’t know if you skipped it, but if you jacked your vehicle up and it is not level, you want to lower it back down and make sure it is level when checking the oil level. You should also give your oil time to drain. Remove the drain plug first, then take about 30 minutes to go over all your other checks, don’t put it back in till you’ve replaced the filter. You can often get an additional half to 3/4 of a quart of the old oil out by giving it more time.
Your right I do exactly this way Most shops won't take the time to let all the oil drain out
thanks!
@@WFSmith Most shops are changing oil while it's at or near operating temperature. Personally, I won't change oil in a car with a cold engine. With the engine at operating temperature, it generally takes about 5 minutes to drain the oil. You'll never get all of the oil out, regardless of how long you wait. Where will always be some amount of oil trapped in the engine. This is actually by design.
Great tips
This drains from the pump, which increases dry run time after cranking. Also, there’s another quart trapped in depressions in the engine. Stop wasting your time and harming the engine
4:25. To avoid taking a shower in engine oil, unscrew the filter until oil starts to come out. Remove your hand and let it drip into the pan until very little drip remains. Then unscrew the whole filter.
Never thought of this one, very nice tip. I’ll be sure to do it like this next time.
Take a. Screwdriver and poke a hole in it, also use bread wrapper instead of gloves
That and take a paper towel or shop towel and fold it twice to quarter it. Use that centered under the filter when you screw it and it will catch most of the residual oil. And the paper towel gives you better grip on the slippery filter.
Yep
Good Idea,this comment should be pinned.
Two things amongst many I learned growing up with a mechanic for a dad. 1) that no matter what, you are always holding the flashlight wrong.... 2) how to change my oil
3...better learn the difference between needle-nose and lineman's pliers.
I used to love being the “go-fer” for my dad when I was little. You’re absolutely right about 1 and 2!! I learned fast what tools were, esp when the tool box was over 100 ft from the garage and down stairs to the cellar. I’m 65 now, a retired engineer executive, and LOVE working with my hands, DIY!!!
My dad always got irritated when I watched him growing up. He would say, "Go inside and help your mother." I'm afraid to work on my own vehicle. I don't want to mess something up on my only vehicle that I need to get to and from work.
@@dperr338 RUclips videos are useful when you're trying to know something that you ignore or know nothing about it, sometimes at the auto parts you get some good advice if you ask them, obviously, you're at your own risk but that does not mean you can't learn a thing or two
i don't think any dad was wrong on the flashlight i tell my kid the same thing
Don't put the drain plug back in until AFTER you have removed the old filter. On some cars, more dirty oil comes out of the drain plug hole after the filter is loosened!
Absolutely!
Not practical in most cases. Every car I've ever owned has the drain plug and the filter far enough apart that I would have to have two separate drain pans. Not worth the extra hassle.
@@nodak81 Remove drain plug again after you let filter drain and add new filter, but before you add any oil.
On some vw cars there is a button in the oil filter housing you must depress several times to expel dirty used oil captured in the oil filter housing whilst draining.
@@nodak81 don't drop the oil and the filter at the same time ( as shown here) then you can move the catchment bowl from oil drain to filter area without spilling oil on the floor!
For those who didn't notice, he had put small magnets on his old oil filter. Those are meant to hold down the iron particles which would've otherwise circulated within the engine.
Oh, cool! I was wondering what those were.
But filter already had magnets inside
I noticed those too. Been looking for some sort of oil filter magnetic ring to go on it, but small high magnetic chocolate chips seem to work too I guess?
wouldn't the filter trap those anyway?
@chris jones is there an actual scientific study on the effective of this? I actually put a large speaker magnet on my filter on a 91 firebird and the engine was toast at 90K.
6:05. If you look closely at the container, they usually show that you should hold it the other way, with the spout at the top. This allows air to get into the container as you pour and it practically eliminates that glug glug glug you get when the air is having difficulty getting into the container.
Glug 😂😂
True though
Most of these "Do-It-Yourself" oil change videos hold the container, as you pointed out here, incorrectly. If they can't even pour the oil correctly (when the container actually shows the correct way), how can you trust anything that they say? Also, in this case he replaced the oil plug before removing the old oil filter. This is also wrong.
Rookie mistake
Why does it matter which way it's held when pourring into a funnel? It doesn't make a mess unless you are pouring without a funnel.
Try it both ways and you'll see.@@trsskater
That’s the correct way to do an oil change. I totally agree with you on doing it yourself. I’ve had all kind of bad experiences with dealers overfilling my engine or not putting enough oil in it. Unfortunately most new cars give you no choice but to let them do the job. Keep up the good work my friend.
One tip is: to remove the filter, if you don't have the tool, you can use sandpaper in your hand, and that will help a lot. If it's too tight and doesn't come out, you can go through it with a screwdriver and turn it (it's the last option). Recommendation: always be fixed there are no leaks, especially by the filter. And never make the mistake of putting oil without having put the screw or the filter, because it usually happens a lot.
I found out that using a 2 liter plastic soda bottle cut off the top and fit it over the loose filter and you shouldnt have any spills.
Just an important heads up... Always point the floor jack straight out away from the vehicle (at a right angle). Lower your jack just to the stand and lock the jack in place as a back up, because like the guy in this video you may be using a jackstand that has been recalled, due to poorly machined components.
You can't get caught slipping if you're always evading & gripping!
I didn't notice if anyone mentioned using wheel chocks. Sometimes it's a good idea.
I remember HF sending out a recall notice on the Pgh jacks.
Jiffy Lube destroyed my car during an oil change. Now, I always do it myself.
it isnt hard to do, that is what their business is about, its not rocket science jiffylube
In the early eighties they. Jiffy lube tighten the drain bolt so tight I had to buy a new oil pan and drain bolt . . I would never ever have a shop change my oil . Any shop
Oil change and HVAC techs are the worst...
I've heard so many stories like yours about J Lube
Since I use synthetic oil I don’t trust shops they probably put their cheap shop oil and charge you for synthetic
RIGHT
Or they use the cheapest synthetic possible.
Agreed
Same here. Royal purple only! Not saying its the best but its my favorite and i think it is lol.
Funny thing is, oil is oil. The vehicle can't tell what brand you're putting in it, it's only caring about the weight and capacity. As long as you're putting in the correct weight and capacity, your vehicle will be just fine. Oh and of course change it on the regular like you're supposed to.
I did that and a full tune up too: spark plugs, air filter, cabin air filter and upper oxygen sensor. The tune up was less $80, pretty good deal! Oil changes are super easy, took me like 20 minutes max.
Yes oil changes are easy to do but you still need to grease all your grease fittings and check your differential fluids
I usually do my own oil changes but occasionally I will let a 'shop' do it, like if I'm getting new tires. The last time I did that, I noticed after doing the next oil change myself, that the tire shop never replaced the oil filter. I put a piece of tape on the oil filter that I last installed and the tape was still there when I did the next oil change. It was there twice as long as it should have been. I feel better knowing that I'm using a high quality oil and filter when I do it myself. No exceptions.
I recommend using a paint marker or paint stick to mark the drain plug and filter. Some, like me, will replace your tape.....
Lazy ass @@aaronthomas6155
So why didn’t you look sooner that’s on you
Good video at a very general level. For those who are novices, it would be worth adding a comment about the possible need to change the sum plug copper washer, especially if it is a crush type, also, note the possibility that the old rubber seal on the old oil filter may stay stuck on the mount - if this happens then the new filter will not fit properly and oil will go everywhere (this has happened to me), and finally, I couldn't believe you would drive the truck without checking the oil level first??
Should also torque the drain plug down. Mine was off by like 2 ft lbs once and it leaked.
It's a good idea to always check the oil level before a change in order to alert you to possible oil burning or leakage to look into further.
Well, you will see how much comes out, so knowing how much is supposed to be there points to issues if not enough comes out.
Waiting until you need an oil change is a VERY BAD idea, especially if you own a late model Chevy 2.4L Equinox!
@@TheOzthewiz Are those damn engines designed to burn oil? I work at an oil change shop and those engines are always low when they come in for a change, some of the most gunked up to.
@@OldSlabSides Chevrolet decided to use 'low friction' piston rings to improve gas mileage at the expense of low oil mileage. Chevy owners were told to check oil level at EVERY gas fill up. So, if I owned an EQUINOX, I would carry a gallon of oil in the vehicle at ALL TIMES!!!!
@@TheOzthewiz Most manuals advise that no matter what car you drive.
Great video!
Small tip: removing the filter often lets a little oil escape back into the oil-sump, so I suggest reinstalling your drain plug after you removed the filter, when everything is open and drained out
I agree, so many people replacing the oil filter after draining the oil is just wrong.. I always replace oil filter first and then drain the oil. Removing the oil filter breaks the fluid lock(prime) in oil pump and that oil goes down to the oil pan. And I always refill the oil filter with oil too to prevent the engine from pumping dry for a few seconds.
Thank you I was going to mention that .
you will never get all the old oil out worrying about a tablespoon of used oil is not worth it. my impala has 265,000 still going . i am using straight 40 wt in it after 200,000.
It doesn't make a difference. lol
In the interest of time efficiency, take out the oil plug, then while the oil is draining take off the filter and replace. More productive use of time than playing with yourself in the interim.
Another thing to do is to let the engine warm up slightly to get all the cooties into suspension, then drain it. And if you are going to fill the filter before installing it, best to pour the oil into the outer ring of holes so the new oil will go through the filter medium before reaching the engine bearings. If you pour the oil into the center hole and there is some dirt introduced that will go into the engine without being filtered. Good video, Hoss!
Dumb advice. Meanwhile all modern engines oil fill through valve covers. You are dumbing all that filthy new oil over your cams.
Here's a good reason why it's best to change your own oil! First of all, I'm 63 now and have always changed my own oil. I live in Az where it gets extremely hot in the summertime. I received a flyer in the mail from a Honda dealership for a free oil change and vehicle inspection. Since it was about 110 degrees out I figured I'd save myself from a very sweaty oil change in the garage and actually go to the dealership for a free one while I sat in their waiting area drinking their iced coffee in 78 degrees. What could go wrong?? After about a 1.5 hr wait the service man comes and gets me and says all ready and gives me the inspection results. Nothing really stood out in the list other than needed a new drive belt which i knew anyway and always do myself. I get home and of course I open the hood to check the oil color ro make sure it looks good and it's filled to the correct level. I couldn't believe what I saw. The oil was very dark and very obvious that the oil change had not been done! By the way, I'm an aircraft mechanic for a major airline, 32 years, and I think I can tell if an oil change has been done or not! I was furious! All that time going to the dealership and waiting and all for nothing! I decided to drain some of the dirty oil into a little plastic container ro have as evidence. I put some clean oil into another like container so I'd have the dirty and clean oils side by side in little containers so I could go back to the dealership to prove my case. I arranged a meeting with the head honcho and went in and told him I was treated like an idiot and done wrong by their dealership.
Told him I'm a 30 yr jet mechanic for the world's largest airline and they pulled the oil trick on the wrong guy! Lol. I can laugh at it now looking back on it all!
Anyway, he set me up with the service dept manager who wanted to drain the oil in my Honda to see for himself. He came to the same conclusion obviously and apologized repeatedly. I told him I want you to make it right or I'm going to the media and I'll let over 80,000 employees at my airline know about your maintenance practices here at your wonderful dealership. I had a list of things I wanted done complementary by them. The guy was very nice and cooperative and he really did take care of me as I asked for a lot of items to be done free of charge. New serpentine belt, new spark plugs, trans fluid change, brake fluid flush, valve adjustment, OIL CHANGE, cooling system flush, new air cleaners, and tires rotated and an alignment. When I got home I obviously proceeded to check everything that I could ro make sure it had all been done. I was happy to see the engine compartment looked like new!
They had even washed that and I even had new high end windshield wipers installed! Moral of the story is that I'll be doing all my oil changes and everything I can do myself as long as I can continue to crawl under my vehicles. Definitely won't take the bait for a free oil change no matter how hot it is outside! I'm sure I'm not the only one they have done that to, no doubt! More reasons to do your own oil changes and beware of ripoff dealerships!
I had a similar deal years ago with a Goodyear Tire/Service shop. Took my Isuzu Trooper in for differential oil service using one of their discount coupons that was sent in a mail flyer. Dropped the Trooper off and in about an hour got a call from them telling me I needed new shocks. The shocks on my Trooper were literally 1 week old as I had installed them myself. The service manager blubbered an apology…”we saw some oil on the shocks” which I called bullshit on. This was back in the 80’s before the bully pulpit power of the internet. I should have threatened to turn them into California’s Bureau of Automotive repair…but I was young and unworldly. Try that on me again now! I’m 66 and change my own oil…I even put a remanufactured engine in my 2003 Subaru two weeks ago in my driveway all by myself. Yee ha!
What airline do you work for?
@@97rayder I work for American Airlines.
I also was scammed by Honda dealership in San Jose , Ca . A few years back I too received a coupon for $ 10.99 oil change and free check up on my 2000 CRV . Waited an hour and 20 minutes and received a maintenance report stating a bad oil pan gasket and two missing bolts !They said the dealership would take care of it for $400 bucks whaaat ?? Well I said no thank you and went home after I paid $10.99 . Upon my own inspection I jacked up my CRV found the oil pan pretty clean with two missing bolts . Now exactly 5000 miles earlier I changed this oil myself , just like I have done many times on my own and family cars, I new that the bolts were not missing then and not loose either. So what to do ? I had no evidence to accuse them of removing them and claiming they must have fallen out . So everyone should beware when you get free or cheap oil and inspection offers you can also be scammed 💰😡and it is better to not be lazy and chance a cheap deal when you know how to do it yourself like I learned.
When I was in college, I’ve had mechanics straight up not change my oil and charge me for it. I’ve never trusted mechanics since.
Same here Ethan. A quick lube type place stripped out the oil pan bolt and installed a “piggy back” plug that leaked a bunch. When I discovered the issue and took it back to them, they denied they did it, even though I only changed my oil at that place the last 5 oil changes! Crooks. I’ve done it myself ever since and saved a lot of money.
I wasn't in college, but I had a mechanic cut open all 4 of my CV boots and sell me replacements. Nor do I trust mechanics since.
Same happened to me to. Bad when you paid for service but instead got ripped off.
@@jeromebarry1741 how do you know he cut them?
@@BigPuffyNipples He found one torn. That was the noise I complained about when I took the car to the shop. Over the next 4 hours he came back and told me that he found each of the other 3 torn. I call bullshit on that. If you are a mechanic, don't invite such bullshit calls.
Always check your oil level prior to starting, and after starting it and shutting off engine.
I don't know if I missed it, but it is best to warm up the vehicle (and the oil in it) for a few minutes before turning off and starting the job. Oil will flow out more easily when warm and any thicker "sludge" will drain more thoroughly. Just make sure you haven't got it too hot by putting a hand on the filter first! I also leave it with the drain plug out and the filter off for 20mins or so, before putting the plug and new filter back - you'll get even more of the thicker deposits out this way (you're not paying for someone's time). Obviously the other comments re the plug washer and the filter gasket are critical too. Make sure the vehicle is on level ground when determining the final oil level by dip stick.
the oil has already drained from warm from the last time you drove it
If there is any sludge you really don't want to run that engine.
Yes I got burnt on the exhaust pipe as I have to reach past it to get to the filter
I've been changing my oil for years. Saves a little money, I know it was done right, but mostly prevents someone else from overtightening the filter. Had it happen every time I had the oil changed by someone else.
On a side note: I just noticed your jack stands. If they were bought at Harbor Freight you might want to check to see if they were recalled for collapsing with a vehicle on them.
Saved me exactly £1660 over the past 5 years for me.
First time I changed the oil is cause I couldn't afford the oil change ,never ever went to a shop after.
You shouldn’t be trust anything from Harbor freight with your life anyways
@@Nikkk6969all of these products are made in the same Chinese factories so there’s very little difference in things like jack stands. The problem with the HF stands was their tooling needed to be updated because the teeth were rounded. Their new jack stands are top notch and have a locking pin.
Good presentation. I can tell you've done this job many times before. I'd like to ad a couple more tips for novices at this job.
1.Make SURE you only use the proper weight and service schedule oil. Don't guess. If you engine is specified for Dexos oil, use ONLY Dexos labeled oil.
2.Flatten out a cardboard box and place it under the drain pan. Have enough cardboard extending beyond the pan, at least a foot in every direction but more is better. Dirty black oil is difficult to get completely off your driveway. Always have a rag handy under there.
3. ALWAYS wear safety glasses when working under a vehicle no matter what you are doing. The tiniest spec of crud in your eye can be quite painful and it is everywhere under a vehicle.
4.Drain plug: Only use the right size combination wrench (1 open end and 1 box end) to remove/install the plug (a socket wrench is OK also if it is the right size, short ratchet only). DO NOT use an adjustable wrench, vise grips or pliers. I would caution novice mechanics to be very careful installing the drain plug. Do not over torque. Snug and a tug should be plenty of torque. Cross threading the plug is a very common mistake doing this job. That's why they sell oversize, self tapping plugs at auto parts stores that may or may not leak. Avoid this conundrum.
5.Also, I wouldn't use the long neck funnel except when filling trans oil. A short funnel drains thru faster. The oil bottles are designed so that if you pour the oil out with the opening of the bottle with the opening higher than the rest of the bottle (counter intuitive I know), you don't get that glug, glug, slosh. This is the design intent of the bottle. You can pour it out faster and have more control of the oil flow.
6. NEVER use the oil filter wrench to install the filter. Hand tight ONLY.
7.After you have all but about the last half of a quart in the motor, start the engine for about 30-45 seconds then shut off. Wait about 10 minutes for all the oil to drain down from upper areas inside the engine to the oil pan. Check the oil and top off carefully. NEVER over fill an engine with oil beyond the intended capacity. It can cause oil seal leaks and on some engines oil consumption/smoking. If it calls for 5 quarts and you just dump in 5 quarts, you can overfill the oil because all the old oil may not have drained out or the new oil filter may have a slightly different capacity than the one you took off. Better to be slightly short of full than to over fill.
8. Wipe away any spilled oil off of engine and any other component it my have spilled on. Make sure oil fill cap is installed correctly and tight, same for dipstick. Thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water.
Sorry this is longer that I expected but in 50 years of working on cars I have made or fixed every one of these mistakes at least once. Work smarter, not harder.
Thank you. The suggestion about checking the refilled oil after the fourth quart (on a nominal five-quart system) is good. Especially impressive is your caution about skin contact with new or especially used oil. Used motor oil contains known carcinogens.
@@bobgreene2892 Contact dermatitis will show up long before any cancer. Imagine the skin peeling off your hands and itching all day long as if you had athletes foot on your hands.
Nitrile gloves are a good choice but thorough hand washing immediately after should suffice.
Oil changes seem like a pretty easy job but only if you pay attention to several little details will you avoid the many minor catastrophes that can happen.
@@x-man5056 1. Are nitrile gloves gasoline-resistant? My own experience while wearing a nitrile-type glove is the glove quickly falls apart.
2. Although I tried to follow your counsel on cautiously adding the final quart of oil, the dipstick's markings were not easily read. After checking the oil for proper appearance, I gradually emptied all but 1/4 quart of a 5 quart jug into the crankcase (after having started the engine briefly to check for leaks).. Problem-- on the next dipstick check, the oil was over the FULL line (ie. to the first "L" in FULL, which I estimate to be 1./4 quart).
At first, I tried to ignore the small over-fill, concluding I could burn the excess off quickly on this 235,000 mile 3.8L engine (though it is not an oil burner). But I have decided to drain the crankcase by an estimated 1/4 quart, until the oil rests exactly on the FULL mark (in a cold engine). In case this happens again, are there kits which allow the excess clean oil to be sucked up and out of the engine through the oil filler port? That would seem ideal, since the oil level can be checked easily as I proceed. (Yes, I tried snaking a long vinyl tube into the oil filler port, but it was blocked about halfway down.)
3. The dipstick had four intervals, to make the translation to quarts of oil volume easier. But a 1/4 interval on the dipstick does not represent 1/4 quart, as I discovered when I adjusted the oil level. Why did GM do this for the Buick 3.8L engine dipstick? (Buick engineers arranged the oil drain plug and filter superbly for easy access, so they know what they are doing. But the dipstick reading remains a problem.)
4. Finding a non-synthetic oil for a high-mileage engine is difficult for the Castrol brand. In your experience, would adding synthetic oil to an engine which previously had used conventional cause oil burning or leaks?
@@bobgreene2892 1. Yes, Nitrle gloves are gas resistant. You may have been using very thin gloves. Use 5-7mil Nitrile gloves for automotive maintenance, 7 mil preferred.. Regardless, you should not be immersing your hands in gas. Do not use gas for a solvent.
2.Oil dipstick marking may not be accurate on any vehicle. Also, marks on oil containers may not be accurate. If you were at 1/4 quart low on the dipstick, you should have put in a little less than a 1/4 quart, waited a few minutes for the oil to run down to the bottom of the crank case, recheck the oil level. Add more oil judiciously as necessary. When you are at or near the full mark stop. If you go over the full mark slightly, you should be fine, but avoid repeating this. If you over fill by a pint or more, remove the excess oil, particularly on later model, 4 cylinder engines or small crankcase 6 cyl. They have smaller crankcases and are therefore less tolerant of being over filled.
3.Yes there are vacuum devises that can remove oil through the dipstick tube but you shouldn't need one. You can get a large hypodermic syringe and some clear tubing for this purpose if you need to.
4. For conventional oil, there are many name brands that work equally well as long as you change them regularly. As long as the oil has the correct service rating it will be fine. I use Valvoline High Mileage oil in my econo box. There is generally no issue of concern adding synthetic oil to conventional oil for topping off the crankcase.
@@x-man5056 Thank you for that!
1. Soon, I plan to loosen the oil filter on this 3.8L 1998 Buick LeSabre, and cautiously let it dribble excess oil into a drain pan, below. Since the oil level observed depends on engine temperature, with residual oil in a warm engine lingering in the filter and upper engine oil passages, is oil level ordinarily checked when the engine is warm or cold? A cold engine condition seems more accurate. BTW, I have not run the engine very far, except for in-city driving a short distance, and under 40mph.
2. Appreciation for tip on handling gasoline-- I'll buy thicker nitrile gloves, immediately. Could you elaborate on the concern with using gas as a solvent-- say for cleaning paint brushes (aside from the ventilation and flammability hazard)?
3. With oil changes, an extended or high-mileage oil supposedly "rejuvenates" rubber and other seals. While that claim may be exaggerated, there are products made specifically for seal preservation-- the product "AT-205", among them. Do they merit consideration, even at extra cost over regular, seal-protecting oil additives?
4. Changing oil regularly seems even more important than the type/formulation of oil used. Micro-grit, acids and other contaminants quickly transform oil into a destructive milling machine, increasing rate of engine wear. Prevention (on a budget) means buying a cheaper oil and filter, but changing every 3,000 miles or so.
I learned how to change oil when I was 10 years old. Cause growing up my parents couldn't afford to pay someone to change it. As well as doin tune ups and fuel filter and any other repairs we could do with basic hand tools. Glad I learned how at a young age. I've always done my own repairs and oil changes all of my life.
You did a great job simplifying the job. I suggest you add several important factors.
While under your vehicle, this is an excellent opportunities to look around for possible problems not noticeable from above!
Second, and very important, after filling the engine, run the engine for approximately 5 mins, while looking under the vehicle for possible oil leaks. They do occur even to the best!
Two things you should have done, first Check the oil level of the dip stick to see if your engine is somehow consuming oil, if the oil is low by a couple of quarts before you drain the oil, see if the engine is leaking oil, look for spots of oil on the drive way, or if the engine is eating oil. you may need to change oil a little more frequently. because of slightly worn engine rings, also look at the condition of the oil. see if it is more dirtier than normal, also check the engine oil level after the engine has run for a few minutes to make sure that the oil level is on the money.
Don’t listen to this guy you only need oil change after 100K miles
It's a GM so it's definitely burning oil
@@jeffcarlos5780 Is there any oil that travels 100,000 miles? 🤥
@@ابوغاليالزهراني-ل4ع just add water and when it gets low
@ابو غالي الزهراني Lol, no He's joking. They so make 10 and 20 Thousand mile oils now but I'd never go that far between changes 5,000 tops, I don't care what the oil manufacturers says.
I was at a major repair shop hanging out at the garage door waiting for my truck.
I watched them take an empty 50 gal. barrel away and replace it with a new one. I could see the label said it was 5w-30 conventional oil.
They simply put a magnet label that said 5w-30 synthetic oil over the real label.
Change your own oil.
Great video. You covered filling the new filter with fresh oil, very important. I also do a few things that was taught to me many years ago. 1)Remove the oil fill cap while draining the old oil. Helps with draining the old oil. 2) Let the old oil drain (drip) out for at least an hour. 3) Replace the drain plug gasket and make sure the old gasket off the old oil filter didn't stick on the engine. 4) If the fill cap is on the valve cover, fill slowly. Baffles, rocker arms, etc. can cause oil to spill out onto the engine. 5) Most modern engines take an odd amount of oil, i.e. 6.2 quarts, 5.5 quarts etc. Add the lowest even number of quarts, i.e. 5 quarts in an engine that holds 5.5, or 6 quarts in an engine that holds 6.2, etc. Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Shut off and check oil level after 15-20 minutes. Gradually add oil and check dipstick to the correct level. 6)Recycle the old oil. Places like Autozone will take old oil and used filters. If it sounds like I'm a little OCD about my vehicles, it's because I am. :-)
And do not forget to use safety glasses or goggles to prevent any accidents from happening.
And he should be pouring the oil into the filter through the perimeter holes and not the center, that way the oil is actually filtered.
@Isaiah Juan The chances are slim but if there is something in the oil container from the factory it could cause problems. I made that response because people post what they think is the best for their cars so if you think pre-filling the oil filter is better than not pre-filling than pouring oil into the perimeter holes is also better. I have never pre-filled an oil filter. It is also a better choice to have an engine oil funnel with a screen, now any impurities will be caught in the mesh and not enter the engine. It doesn't`t take much clog a passage with today's small engines.
Prefilling oil filter is not recommended anymore; I checked with a filter manufacturer. Thing is, that way you can introduce impurities e.g. that aluminum foil from the bottle into the "filtered" part of the oil system and this will go directly into the engine. The oil pump will push the oil through the new filter within 1 second, so really no need to prefill anything.
@@maxkrug2000 Using your theory then impurities can be poured into the top of the engine when refilling oil at any time. I don't pre fill my filters but I do use a funnel with a mesh screen every time. I have filtered impurities, plastics, etc. while doing oil changes.
In some cases, it also might be a very good idea to wear safety glasses while draining your old oil. For both the filter and drain pan with the drain plug. Also, let your engine cool as much as possible before changing your oil. If not, that oil can be HOT as F sometimes lol. I am speaking from experience because I used to work at Valvoline Oil change.
This is very true. After 2 oil changes at a local quick lube that starts with a W, the tech says "there's alot of sludge under the cap." He showed me the cap and yellow sludge. Since then I always change the oil myself. Convenience isn't always worth it. Never had sludge build up problems again. Couldn't even say if they actually changed the oil at all. Now I know for sure I got 5 clean quarts and a new filter all of my liking.
That’s just moisture from doing small trips.
It's from short tripping your car, they didn't do anything wrong, moisture in the crankcase doesn't burn off because the engine doesn't have enough time to heat up to temperature.
DIG IT!!!
Being A Female... I ALWAYS Wonder...If My Oil Changes...Or ANYTHING...Is Done RIGHT...By The Hands Of These Mechanics...Who Love To Lie And Take Corners -Eh.
Changing The Oil...Appears To Be A Very Simple-Enough Task. I Would Not Mind Doing It -Myself, But...I Don't Have The Mobility To Do It @66 Yrs. Old. However, My Age Is Not The Problem...My Mobility Capabilities -ARE.
Good Video...TFS!!!
🙂
i always made sure i stuck with the exact manufacturers oil filters and not a diffrent brand. like my mustang called for motorcraft oil filter and THATS the only brand i used. my thought was that if i start using a different brand , then it might not fit exactly right and could end up with problems down the road. i thought "better safe than sorry"
Never trust a quick lube shop either you change your own engine oil or take it to the dealership, you'll pay more at the dealership, at least the job is done right, if you have a good running vehicle don't short change the maintenance you'll regret it later.
If you want the job done right, do it yourself 👍
That's right buddy
At least you know what's going into your engine.👍
Totally Agree
And if you want to see your wallet as health as possible, do it yourself as well.
I have never had issues with any of our customers engines still going strong ..I think yall just have shady mechanics lol
Great job,I do my own as well at 71 years old then it is done right and clean.
Bravo. Great job done right.
I wouldn't leave the oil in for that long. Maybe a year if I don't drive much, but 71 might be a tad over manufacturer recommendations...😉
The major flaw in this video is suggesting you can get 15k oil and be good for that long when in fact that is a terrible idea, largely because you have to change the filter much sooner than that.
incorrect
That's why I use the Mobil 1 oil filter.
Just a thought---after removing the old filter, look to see if the gasket is still on it.
Yes indeed! Happened once in40 years I can happen make sure rubber ring is still on old filter.
@@davemedure3061 yes and if there's two gaskets installed with the new oil filter as soon as you start the motor up there will be a huge oil leak!
@@garygermain2333 believe it or not drove 120 miles that next day,it leaked next day as wifey took it down the road only to see a line of oil yes she came back and said somethings wrong
And make sure you wipe down the oil filter mounting point and the surrounding area ... that's when i look for the old gasket.
So far that's never happened to me! I've heard stories
i just did my first oil change, which was not that messy as i suspected as i used R. Kirkwood's tip about zip lock bag which definately reduced my mess to quite a lower level. thank you so much for such an informative yet easy to understand video.
But a five quart jug, not separate quarts, will save you money too.
Most store will give you the 5 gal price for 5 qt automatic like O'Reilly
Trã Rozay usually those boxes have a different price than the single bottles tho. Per quart it’s cheaper to get the jug than the box.
@@johnmoore1495 if the 5 has a sale the qt wiill ring the same.
@Scotty Scotty That's why you buy a five quart jug and one quart, 5+1=6. Lol
@@davidk1579 😂
2 suggestions, you can avoid the oil mess while removing the filter if you let it drip out before removing it completely. You can avoid an oil mess while filling if you turn the bottle the other way. Thanks for sharing!
Ive also seen people get a hammer and punch/screwdriver and poke a hole in the bottom to drain the filter. Either way, bad design, and I much prefer my tundras diagonal filter. Vertical top mounts are even worse though.
I like to wrap a gallon zip lock bag around the filter then just unscrew it.
@@Matthew-tv7gzgood idea
do you mean unscrewing it and then holding in place so it drips into the oil filter or letting the oil in general drain into the pan completely?
@@TeakKey7 yep use a punch drain the filter from the bottom super clean job.
I agree 100% with this guy , do your own oil change . How many F150 EcoBoost owners lost their skid plates or the dealer forgot to put it back properly .
What about them refilling with mineral oil when synthetic is required or not changing your filter because well they don't have the correct filter for your car or cracking your oil pan, or underfilling or overfilling. So as you can see lots of reasons to avoid quick lube shops including the stealership.
@@noelaguirre7104
I got overfilling of engine oil from Honda dealer. Let me now hesitate to bring back to them for regular maintenance.
Mine has been off for years now, it was a foam/fabric cover and just got annoying. Plus it dampens that sweet turbo sound.
@@k0p7185 they were in a hurry and filled to capacity without adequate drain time.
@@greg7902 Turbos are above it on Ecoboost so what you are saying is purely false. I have had 3 Ecoboosts.
I always do my own work because I know it'll be done correctly. Do my own brakes and tire rotation too.
Your tires don't rotate while driving ?🤣 How do you do a proper rotation with directional tires at home ?
@@DL101ca I have non-directional on my rear-drive 4x4 so I move the rear to the same side front then move the front to the rear then alternate sides.
One of the most simple maintenance tasks you can do on your car but probably the most vital.
I always change my own oil and you're right...it is very rewarding
Not just rewarding but Redemptive! "Out with the bad, in with the good"!
Not during wintertime. Very annoying in the snow.
The best reason WHY is that many shops tell you they are putting synthetic in, but use cheap oil instead.
I normally have my oil change done at OIL CHANGERS. This is an open pit stop. You stay in your car and you can see them open pour in the correct type and brand of oil. I also bring my own filter, and ask them to give me the old filter.
Yup and even if you bring your own new oil they’ll still put their own cheap crap in it and turn around and sell the oil you brought in on eBay. Why I always would make them give me the empty bottles afterwards
That's what I always suspected so I never trusted them. Besides, changing my car's oil myself I know everything is done right. I do my own brakes, too
"I change my own oil whenever humanly possible"
Me too. At least five times a day.
Why do I have to watch all the ads before the video? I shut you off....
Your arms must be really tired.
Could you tell me where the drain plug is located?...............
@@Lawless187indika The oil pan is usually on the passenger side just under the right front wheel. The drain plug should be at the lowest point toward the rear of the car. The bolt is probably 14,15 mm or 9/16in. size, but you may want to look that up.
@@Lawless187indika RIght next to the turn signal fluid.
I just changed my own oil for the first time yesterday after having a bad customer service experience at the local quick change shop. Never going back
Lube shops Suck.. Dealer only or do it yourself.
@@PRO4XKEV
Dealers suck too. They still hire entry level people to do oil changes.
Welcome to the cult! lol.
@@NJLev hey you gotta start somewhere to become a master technician 🤷🏾♂️
@@marcosramirez5084
I agree. Service stations and quick lube spots have their place. My only point is a lot of those guys are inexperienced, know next to nothing about doing a proper oil change, and they don’t care about your car. On top of that, for the money you give them for a bottom shelf oil and filter, you can do a full synthetic oil change with a quality filter and have money left over for lunch.
should of checked the dip stick to make sure the oil was at the proper level
It's definitely good to do but I put in the exact amount needed per manufacturer spec and checked for leaks underneath. The dip stick will only show true reading after the engine has been run then off for about 15-20 mins to give the oil a chance to accumulate back into the pan...
and check is the filter and drain plug were tightened enough
Arne Maeschaelck yep I’ve seen a few peoples oil filters leak and one guys actually fall off from not being tightened correctly. I really thing he should’ve said something in the video about that and checking the level
No need to check the proper level from the dips tick, its enough already when he check to turn on the engine.
1ROAD Manufacturer book always said first warm up vehicle and drain then put the amount of oil showing for the engine and always check dipstick and other thing is no book tells to fill the oil filter before the procedure. I think you can’t be most better than a Japan engineer.
Always check the dipstick before starting to be sure the oil level is registered. Pouring in 5 quarts without realizing the drain plus isn’t in happens. Run it until warm, let it sit 5 minutes, then check the level and top off as needed. Don’t assume the level just after filling is final.
I did exactly that. all went on the driveway.
hahaha first time i drove my car without watching and dropped of the ramp only one side luckily it didnt do a lot of damages and i changed both engine and transmission oil now i feel comfortable to do it again @@davidvogel6359
I created oil change checklists for my vehicles to reduce time and eliminate mistakes, something aircraft pilots often employ.
Warm up the engine before draining. This insures that any contaminants are suspended in the used oil.
Chip Staggs (just discussion) imo,
1) no because the contaminants already settled at the bottom and will come out as it drains. If you warm it up you are recycling all of those contaminants.
2) you’re more at risk of getting burned if you accidentally touch the exhaust with like an elbow.
And torque down drainplug and dont forget a new copper washer
@@mule666 Chevy's don't use a crush washer
@@mule666 I like the copper washer too. Just don't over-torque it. Today's oil pans are very pricey!
@@Ano_Ba_Girl Oil runs better when it's warm🤔 =drains faster.
I always change with high synthetic oil my self. Never took to shop for change and this way I know what I am feeding my car engine.
high synthetic, thats special
Pro tip, unscrew the oil filter first before drain plug. Or at least before you put the drain plug back in, extra oil often drains to the pan when you remove the filter
Yeah, not a pro tip. Not all oil filters are installed vertically, or in an accessable spot. The one's that aren't, will get oil everywhere while you're just letting it sit there and drain.
Change the filter first then it can just drop into the pan. Much easier than trying not to drop a burning hot filter into a pan of burning hot oil
That truck looks mad clean considering all those years it has on, very good owner
I am always shocked by my friends that never change their own oil. Even on my Harley Davidson I do it myself. The places that do oil changes don't hire MIT grads to change oil. Remember that. These kids can't even pull their pants up and you are trusting them with changing your oil. It takes 30 minutes at the most and you get the personal satisfaction that it was done right.
Problem is, modern cars have service reminders that go off on every start, and you need the right OBD2 tool to set the service flag. As in, potentially 200$ for an OBD2 tool.
@@centralintelligenceagency9003 I can't speak to every car, but I have owned mainly Toyotas and Fords. You can manually reset them and it only takes a minute. That is once you remember how to do it. It doesn't take an OBD2 tool, it just required you to manipulate some information screens on your car's dash.
I bet you are a conspiracy freak auto shops are going to take over the world , relax go fishing
@@terryogletree2128 Or unlike you, have an IQ over 50.
@@terryogletree2128 they are....
"A vehicle is and investment, a poor investment but an investment nonetheless". Couldnt agree more.
I much prefer the term “depreciating asset”. Investment implies and suggests a possible profit will result from the expenditure. If you were fortunate or clever enough to resell the vehicle for a sum greater than the purchase price it would indeed be accurate to classify the transaction as an investment. Sadly, I’ve yet to pull that maneuver off.
Poor or not depends on what you use it for.
An expensive vehicle sitting in garage and not being used much = poor
A vehicle as per needs and decent prized which is used a lot and does a lot of work while still holding decent value = returns
@@mikecastellon3022 Not unless you utilize the vehicle to generate money like if you leased it out to somebody else, or you became a Lyft or Uber driver... etc. Then the vehicle is an investment. You might be losing money on the depreciation but if it's bringing in much more money than it's losing, then it's an investment, don't you think?
👍🏿
I would use the word "inexpensive" instead of "poor".
"Poor" often means "bad".
Ya gotta love RUclips, especially for the DIYer! The comments and tips that follow are great!
Hello Jimmy, thx you for sharing your knowledge. I can add to the procedure that before replacing the drain plug, you should go ahead with the oil filter & after replacing the new oil filter, replace the oil drain plug, in that way it will be more efficiently draining as much as you can the old oil. In my case, once I finnish my driving, the day before, I will begin draining the engine while still warm & the day after began the replacement of the new oil & filter. Thx again from Puerto Rico.
Just let the filter drain a bit once you break it loose folks don’t get your whole arm covered
FRS JAKE or take an awe and punch a hole in the bottom of it and let it drain that way you can take it off with out worrying about spilling oil
@@quoolvic1892 my filter is right side up so nothing helps me, doesn't seem to spill bad
FRS JAKE gotcha. Is it already drained once removed? Just curious. The thing I said before was a tip I received from a friend. My filter is underneath and is in an awkward spot. I used to make a mess but then started using and awe and a plastic cup an no more mess
@@quoolvic1892 yeah I drain from pan, come up loosen it and usually there's very little left on the oil filter housing.
@@quoolvic1892 that's an awl maybe a center punch?
You should discuss the small magnets you have installed on the old filter. I know why they are there. But, others may not. Also it's a great time to look around at tie ends and grease fittings. Inspect shocks and ball joints ect. Some times problems are obvious. And you can save lots of money by finding a worn parts and tend to them before they completely fail. Preventing you from being stuck on the side of the road waiting of a tow truck.
I don’t know why they are there. That’s why I’m in the comments, trying to figure out why
@@501blues I’m guessing that it keep iron particles from getting recirculated. But I’ll prob do a search.
you dont add them to the drain plug, you have to buy a new plug with the magnet attached.
They are a waste of money. 100% of the oil goes thru the filter when it goes thru the oil pump. Engines are mostly made of aluminum. If you have flakes of steel coming off your crank shaft, pistons, rings... they will get captured by the oil filter before they can get into any place where they can do any harm.
Exactly how I feel about it! Ever since I started doing some of own service and oil changes, my vehicles run much better and I have peace of mind that the work was done properly and with the best quality fluids and parts. Dirty sometimes but worth it!
Changing your fluids doesn’t make the vehicle run any better it’s all in your mind
@@CharlesLease-ei1eelol
One thing he should have mentioned when jacking up your vehicle. Never rely on just your jack to hold the vehicle up. Use jack stands. Your seal on your jack can blow causing vehicle to drop.
100%
Someone in my area passed away a while back. Working under the car, jack gave up, no one was home. I say for oil change, just use Ramps. Less headache.
Great video. However, the oil bottles are designed to be poured with the spout on the high side to allow for the free flow of air into the bottle as you pour. This avoids the "glug glug" you get at 6:10.
Never knew that
Thanks!
Also gives you better control of tilt and fluid flow
Turning the bottles sideways also works well.
just turn the bottle sideways either way and no glug. known for years
Thank you for confirming what I've been saying. I change oil with, brand, weight, amount and filter that I choose; tighten bolt safely, clean; inspect; check and take used oil to shop for recycling FASTER than just dropping off, let alone picking up, paying and arguing about my 'suggested repairs!'
Always do it yourself.....this way you know it's done correctly!!!!!!...
and you won't throw money in the wind for sucha simple process
You also know that the oil you prefer or want is going in there, not a cheap substitute for which you would be charged top dollar. Gotta say that I would also be putting the filter wrench on to give it a quater/half turn after replacement.
@@Ramjet257 don't forget to tighten that CHEAP drain plug....or at least crossthread it!!
oh yes, sounds like a joke, but oem garages tend to just suck the oil out (leaving the mud in the pan) and don't even change the filter. What kind of ethic is this?
I use to hate taking my car in and they overtighten my oil filter and drain plug, snug on the filter and 22 inch pounds on the plug. I use a torque wrench, I have it because they wanted us to use it when I use to work a shop.
Love changing the oil on my Mercedes. I have a vacuum extractor that simply connects to the dipstick tube. Sucks it all out without spilling a drop. It’s how the engineers designed it to be done. Tests show it pulls more oil out that using the drain plug. Oil filter is up top of the engine, so that is easy peasey too. It’s fun! I look forward to doing it.
Well good for you!
Right. I'm the only guy who has ever changed the coolant, plugs, wires, AND oil on my Jaguar.
Good video. Still haven't done my own oil, but really should. I would think the last step should be checking the dip stick and confirming the level is correct. Going by the owners manual ensures you're not under filling it, but if some of the old oil didn't drain for some reason, I assume it's possible to overfill.
yeah... no.... waste of time
and the oil will read high until you start the engine and fill the oil filter
@@kenwittlief255 You must work at one of those quick lube places. Have you ever measured how much oil comes out once it starts to drip? It can often be half to 3/4 of a quart. After you remove the drain plug, find something else to do for about 30 minutes, a lot more oil will come out. Checking the oil level is much less a waste of time than draining or vacuuming out oil because you overfilled it.
I change my own oil because I trust no one to do it.
So do I!
Me too, I’ve seen so many cars overfilled when changed at a workshop..
I agree w you ! And you can let oil drain all the way out to drip drip then close tight the drain nut then add oil
Agreed, not just that they sometimes use power tools on the drain plug and over tighten eventually stripping the hole or under tighten causing leaks and I never know what they hell they putting in my car, even if I brought my own oil. Mechanics are legal criminals.
Yep 💯
Very well-done vid, with many good points, you never really know what "bulk" oil quick lube shops, dealerships or even your local mechanic are using. Often cheap oil filters are being used as well. An added bonus you save yourself from the up-sell process when you do it yourself 👍🏽
Charged me $64 for "up to 5 quarts"... the best oil you can get is about $24 for 5 quarts and they used oil that was a little cheaper.
The 2 best are: Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum and Pennzoil High Mileage Platinum.
They used regular Pennzoil Platinum.
They also used a $5 Pennzoil oil filter.
The best oil filter is Wix XP. around $13. (depending on vehicle).
So for $37, I can have the best oil and the best filter or for $64 I can have someone else use lower grade oil and a cheap filter.
I don't mind paying for someone else to do the work, but when they use inferior parts and charge twice as much, that's when i have a problem.
I haven’t read all of the comments so this may have been touched on. I have been changing my own oil since I first owned a car in the late 60’s.
I was always told to warm the engine to allow the oil to have the sediment that may have settled to be in suspension in the warm, hot oil so it drains with the oil, not remaining in the cold engine. Just be aware of the temperature of the oil so you don’t get burned.
Also, after starting the motor after the change check for leaks from the filter and drain plug! I always checked, and was glad I did since one time my filter wasn’t installed correctly. I did check and see oil dripping as soon as I started the motor so no harm done except for a small oil spill.
One thing I did learn from this video, and appreciate the tip, is to allow the oil to soak into the filter material, then top it off. I always filled the filter, but then immediately installed it.
You make some great points! Triple check your work just to be safe and any job you do will turn out ok.
I already know how to change my oil but, your video is so good that I just want to watch how to change the oil and learn again. Thanks for the great video!
Old oil filter: Just unscrew it till you see the first sign of oil. Leave it there to let oil fall down (move your hand out the way). Every few seconds unscrew some more. Then take it off. Don't just keep unscrewing it and smother your hand in oil.
Colonel Kurtz If you call that little, we don’t want to imagine what your definition of messy is then.
Umm, if you don’t want to mess with an old oil filled filter, just puncture it with a Phillips screwdriver or similar object to drain the contents, then remove.
Agree with you Will. I do it exactly the way you describe it every time. Used oil is a carcinogen. You don't want used oil running down your arm. Not to mention if it runs all the way down to your armpit, it's a huge mess to clean up.
@@GrnXnham armpit is better than straight into mouth and then into intestines, though
Instead of an auto parts drain bucket, I used a cheap plastic cat little box from Wal Mart. It's a little bigger, which helps catch oil from the drain and the filter.
One tip when changing engine oil, put the front of the vehicle on ramps, not only for safety reasons but also because it tilts the oil sump backwards towards the sump drain plug, which allows for all the oil to come out, whereas jacking up the car on one side makes the oil in the sump move away from the sump drain plug leaving a small amount of dirty oil remaining in the sump !
Just lower the jack while it is draining..
That’s one clean Suburban for being 17 years old. Love seeing older cars being taken care of this well.
I have 95 Silverado. Bought it new. Changed the oil every 3000 miles. 347,000 miles later and engine still runs good.
@@hanc37 Wow, that is 115 oil changes
@@brucemiller9400 Number 3 cylinder burns some oil. Not enough to smoke, but I can smell it. Have to clean or replace spark plug every few months. I'm thinking bad valve guide seal...
I've been changing my oil for decades for multiple reasons. I own 5 vehicles so maintenance costs can climb. I can use a higher grade oil and filter than the oil change places use. My ramps are set up so I can do the job as fast as 15-20 minutes in some cars. My local car parts store takes the old oil so its convenient. I also do tune-ups, brakes and all minor jobs as a 65 yo DIY'er
It takes me more than 20 minutes to drink the 12 pack before I start.
Great Video.. One helpful tip on the oil filter removal is to puncture the bottom of the filter with a screwdriver so the oil can drain into the oil pan and no all over your hand...
Lol I have 1998 Toyota Camry the filter is on top all I have to do is drive my car for 10 minutes drain the oil and wait about 35 minutes and use my special oil filter removal cap and I have no oil spills the key is waiting at least 30 minutes one of the many reasons I love this freaking Toyota Camry. Easiest car to work on amazing.
@@max41050 that is a lot easier but why do you wait that long? It doesn't take anywhere near half an hour for warm oil to stop draining.
@@blakeholder1017 . I know what you're saying , the reason I wait around 30 to 35 minutes is because my Toyota Camry has the oil filter on top and even with the engine being warm if I try to remove the oil filter let's say after 20 minutes of draining the oil, there will still be oil by the oil filter area and it can get very messy, believe me I've done this many times and I hated the mess when removing the oil filter, I actually found out by accident one day when I forgot to remove the oil filter after 10 minutes and I went out to remove it about a half hour later and surprise no mess when I removed the oil filter I was so happy, it works all the time I hated my Camry for that,now I love it the filter is so easy to remove with the special cap wrench that I bought at Walmart for 5 dollars a half inch ratchet with a long extension and out comes the oil filter, I just planned ahead, I go inside the house and do some stuff for about 30 or 35 minutes and then go outside and finish the job ,heck I'm working for myself I can take my time, of course if the oil filter was on the bottom I would just remove it after 5 minutes, nothing anyone can do to avoid a little oil spill. Lol
@@max41050 That makes a lot of sense especially if you were having that issue. I suppose that is one of the only issues with having your oil filter on top? Also that's awesome that you work for yourself!
Bro. that is the way the old dinosaurs used to get the filters off. Lmao!
I know for sure the the correct oil is being used.
I know for sure my drain plug is not being overtorqued with an impact wrench.
I know for sure my oil filter is not being under tightened or over tightened.
I know for sure my old filter gasket is not stuck to the car.
I know for sure the new one is being oiled.
I know for sure my engine is never being accidentally started with no oil.
Another couple tips. I always run the engine for a bit and check for leaks. While it's running, I take a photo of the mileage and the oil & filter containers. Then I email myself those photos along with any other notes like the drain plug size and whether or not I changed the air filter. I often look up my email while shopping for the new oil and filter. Plus the email dates the oil change. It's kind of handy since I have 3 vehicles to take care of. Kind of nerdy but it works well.
I agree, especially if your vehicle is still under warranty. I always change my oil at 5k mile intervals, so there is very little chance of forgetting at what mileage it has on the last change. I also keep track of all parts and maintenance on a simple excel spread sheet, but I tend toward overkill. At least that's what the kids say.
I live in the Northeast and aside from you showing an oil change I cant believe how clean the under carriage is for a "03 vehicle. Usually after about two years a "new" car will show signs of surface rust on all the under side and the wheel wells about 5 to 7 years thanks to winter salt on the roads...
Yeah. I told my son for his first car, he needed to learn to change his own oil and for many reasons. Like he said in the video, it’s rewarding. I personally learned at age 16. So anyway my son listened to his friends to get his oil changed elsewhere. Most issues with that is you don’t know what kind of oil they use, how much is added, if the filter is changed and if it’s just done correctly.
After my son had his oil changed, he drove his truck home. After about 4 days of driving, it started smoking, shaking and knocking. We checked the oil on the dipstick and it was 2.5 quarts overfilled. So we called the same shop and they said there’s no way it’s overfilled because they use a computer to fill it and there’s nothing they can do. Really?
Wow. Not only the mechanic in that place doesn’t know what he’s doing, but also the guy answering the phone doesn’t know what he’s talking about.
These “computerized” garages may have an oil dispenser nozzle that lets the computer know how much oil was dispensed.
This is good for the shop for tracking oil inventory, and preventing the staff stealing from the owner. (By-cash oil changes that didn’t get registered into the cashier ledgers)
But such system does not limit the mechanic’s ability of dispensing 4qt, 6qt, 7qt, or 10qt.
Maybe, just maybe, there is a software lock that limits a maximum of some 12qt per vehicle.
But to say their computer decides exactly how much oil to dispense for each individual vehicle... is BS.
Why on earth would one use a computer for such a simple, mundane and straight forward task of checking the oil level in any equipment that requires lub oil? absolute BS and profoundly stupid.
Lucky it didn’t seize holy crap
@@Thecelestial1 ummm what
Not to mention the guerrilla torque on your drain plug bolt and the oil filter so tight its welded to the engine frame. The poor guy who does the next oil change needs special tools to get them off without damaging anything.
Loving them safety flip flops the sign of a professional 😀
It's good to be aware that oil from the inner part of the filter goes directly to the main bearings. Any contamination at this point can destroy a bearing and this is why some people (including manufacturers) are against pre-filling filters.
Dirt can just as easily fall in an empty filter as your screwing it on 🙄. If you ever owned a Ford 300 inline 6 cylinder with the oil filter on its side you’d understand why pre-filled. Ford dealers replaced the filter free 2 days after oil change as some filters would empty in an hour and engine would rattle with no oil pressure for 5 seconds EVERY time it started 😩
My 2014 Toyota hilux filter is upside-down so it can't be prefilled.
@@moe2470 best filters are the upside down,easy to change :)
It's brand new oil.. 🙄
Doesn't matter.
I been doing my oil for years but i still enjoy the video its very clearly explanatory well done!
what do you do with the old oil ?
Thanks Jimmy Tip. Use a medium ziplock freezer bag pushed up over the filter after you loosten it a bit. Push the bag all the way up and slowly unscrew. The oil runs down into the bag. Works great on my 5.7 hemi where the filter is buried and drains on everything without the bag.
That's a great tip!!
Jake Mason Are you such a girly man that you cant get a little used oil on your nails? You guys kill me
@@dodgeramsport01 Guess he never heard of Vaseline
I realize this is 4 years old, but I have to take issue with a few things. 1. You didn't mention to set park brake, or chuck the rear tires. 2. To prevent an accidental oil spill on the ground or floor, I always place cardboard, or cloth or an old tarp under the engine. 3. DON'T take the oil pressure to mean it's filled correctly, it's not going to show if you're a quart low or high. Run the engine for a few minutes, shut off, let it sit another few minutes, then check the oil dip stick for correct fill by pulling it out, wipe off, dip back in all the way, then check again. Final note, check to make sure the OLD filter gasket is on the old filter when you take it off, if not, check for the gasket where the filter was, it may have gotten stuck there, you don't want to double gasket the filer. Picky? yeah, but it's done right!
I never screw my oil filter on “as tight as I can”. Screw the filter on until it makes contact and then only turn it about one 1/4 to 1/2 turn from there. Any tighter and you will have a mother of a time getting the old filter off (I never have to use a wrench to get my filters off, btw).I’ve been doing this for over 40 years and I learned this from mechanics I ran with back in the day. I will agree that doing your own oil change is a smart thing to do.
Yea no need to overthight oil filters!
yeah i learned that the hard way...my last oil change, i spent about an hour trying to get my old filter off by hand.
Or buy a car that doesn't need a filter to be tightened.
He did however say as tight as you can by hand......hand tightened is all it needs to be.
bFORCe2003 As tight as you can- even by hand, is WAY TOO TIGHT. Barely half a turn after contact is all that is needed. It’ll tighten up on its own.
I’m also 62 and do all my own oil changes, Have been doing it since I was 16😁.
I would definitely give it to the shop to take care of it ( messy job) if I had extra money, but I don't have. Low incomer.
Me also, I always change my own oil and I am now 60.
Me too 😁 in Fact I have never paid for an Oil Change and Sometimes my Nephews and some others pay me to do it because is Just a Matter of Minutes
The only different thing I do is after I take the drain bolt out I go do something else until it stops draining completely.
I do that also but I pour a little bit of new oil to "get the rest" out lol.
@@squidusn71 I've poured a quart of ATF in before starting the oil change and run it for 10 minutes. My dad told me forever ago that the high detergents in ATF cleans out the accumulated crud! I think I'll do it next change.
Yep, go get a coffee. But don't do what I did once and forget to put the sump plug back in!!!
Gary Mills 😱
@@garymills6702 Yep, that's bad. Did it once on an off highway truck and found the ground covered with nearly 30 gallons of oil........
I learned... Best way to do with this video very simple and easy... How to change Engine oil... Myself... Thank You...
When you remove the filter wipe the flange off with a rag. If the gasket is stuck to it, you will find it.
A clean flange makes a better seal for the new filter.
With fifty years of servicing engines myself , I've probably saved the price of a few new cars in labour and over-priced parts . I also don't get any Shop BS either !
In my 64 years of life I have had someone else change my oil twice. I get a satisfaction from doing it and a feeling of confidence that it was done right. Was the filter put on too tight or too loose? Was the drain bolt put on correctly? Was the correct oil installed? Was it even done at all? I'll keep changing my own oil and filter until I can physically do it any more!
I hear you, I change mine too, not to save money......but to save my car.
@@woohunter1 I had the oil changed in Fairbanks, AK. Everytime I change oil it always takes 5 quarts! EVERY TIME! I get the Jeep back and the guy hands me a half quart that wouldn't fit. I ran out and checked the filter and oil level. New filter and oil is new and full. WTF.
Paul Smith I don’t blame you for changing your own oil one bit, that’s one reason why. I make sure I drain every last drop before I put the plug back in, I use good quality oil and filters. I’m very particular about all my stuff, worked to hard for it to be mistreated by someone that doesn’t care.
Yeah I agree, but I'll have an EV before I get to that point...I would prefer to never have to change oil again..
I took my car to a tire shop to replace one tire. The "mech" tried his hardest to put a 14" tire on my 15" wheel. I think the shop was trying to get rid of that last one tire. I didnt know much about cars then and if did, I would've gladly drove away from that place with one flat LOL.
Nice and clear. I always change my own oil and filter. Then I know it's been done and with quality products and not just any old rubbish the garage has on hand.
Tip: Leave the drain plug off and flush the system with some new oil. You might be surprised at how long it takes before clear oil starts draining out.
Tip: Let it all cool before you start draining oil.
Tip: Some vehicles may require them to be on level ground when adding fluids. Just down-jack when you're ready to fill. it's easier to reach
Tip: No filter wrench? Use duct tape to get a better grip.
Tip: Lube all the o-rings/gaskets.
Tip: Clean the area around the filler cap before removing it to prevent dirt from entering system.
Tip: Recheck everything after a period of driving time.
Tip: Don't dump the old oil down the sewer... Filthy animals
thanks, handy advice
Tip2: When the oil is warm, it is thinner, so it will come out better
I save the drain oil to oil door hinges, etc.
you are wasting oil and money LOL
@@tommak6516 you shouldnt be doing that LMAO
Change the filter first and you can let it drop into the pan, much easier. Been changing oil for decades and just figured this out a year ago. Also hold the pan close to the drain bolt to eliminate spills when the oil first comes out.
You just enlightened me WoW. Thanks
I drain pan first then hand tight plug while changing filter. When done with the filter, remove plug again quite a bit more old oil drains out. I let it drain for a few more minutes before plugging it up to refill fresh…
That’s gotta be the cleanest underbody suburban I’ve ever seen
that was being kept in the garage... for video purposes only :))
I was always taking my car to The Shop for Oil Change every 5k and Pay for Good Quality High Price. and 4 week ago I did make a Oil Changed for my Car at Home And I realy surprise that Oil Filter look very bad. Thich Much very Dark Back old drity. Look like The Shop Never Change Oil Filtet for my Car for long time that could Destroy the Engine. and I decided to do my own Oil Chang at home. Now the sound of my Car engine is quite and running very good. Thanks for this Great Video.