My line just started spraying about 5pm or so today and after some digging came across your video. I’m 3 hours from Fort Worth heading to San Antonio to see a friend and if it wasn’t for this video I’d be spending a lot more money and time to repair my 99’ F250 which I bought a month ago. Never a dull moment. Very appreciative you made this video as it made diagnosing what fuel line failed and what it takes to repair much easier and save a lot from not having to pay labor costs since I’m comfortable with this kind of work. Thank you
I just changed the gaskets on my fuel bowl, and ordered my return lines tonight. I don't think I am leaking much if any at all, but it's a 99 so I figure I might as well change out the lines while the truck is in its hiatus this over the winter months. I have already changed pretty much every sensor on the truck along with all other elctrical components. It looks like someone ran all new fuel lines on the bottom half of the truck before I purchased it, but the top half of the motor has been a bit neglected. I enjoy working on my powerstroke more than any other car or truck I have worked on. It's a fun truck for sure!!!
Awesome info. I have my cab off doing a bunch of other stuff and saw this line. I'm going to inspect this clamp area closely and see what I need to do.
Mine just started leaking like a week ago sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn’t so i really need to look into it since i know is not the purge valve but might replace it as well great video bubba.
@@CesarHuert1915 if it only leaks sometimes it’s not this line. You don’t have a purge valve on a 7.3, you have fuel bowl drain. It has orings and can leak. I have a video on that
I watched this video on accident this morning looking for a different line i needed to replace. Put mine all back together and not even 30 minites down the road this one blew. Pita to get that back one in.
@AutomedicGarage did quite a bit. Wasn't able get it back together used Dorman (as it was in hand same day) and fought with it to get it on and messed up threads. Gonna see if I can get a oem one. Dorman ones come with a rubber grommet for the tube to prevent this from happening. Imagine never happen again regardless. 250k on it now
@AutomedicGarage seeing some of your other videos most definitely gonna be help in future too I bet. Own a excursion 7.3 and a f350 7.3. Most definitely a clear video to help and show many. Imagine other videos are this clear. Keep up good work
Hope this helped. The fitting in the back of the head is a little bit of a booger but it’s doable with a wrench. Also I leave the bracket off to keep it from running through again in the future. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I just did the same job. However, you do not need to remove the pedestal. It takes a bit to worm the line but it is doable. Still good video.
I did not remove the pedestal. I did however remove the spyder. It takes a couple minutes and gives you way better access and view. Thanks for watching.
I found your video as I had a serious fuel leak coming home last week. 2001 7.3. I simply am having trouble getting the new line run back in! This is kinda ridiculous.
Hey Came across your video. I’m finishing up the same line tomorrow. They should have a flex line for this make much easier to route it. I still might make up a better support hanger.
Good video but I'm dreading that connection on the back of the engine. Doesn't look like human sized hands fit in there. Probably will need to take off the down pipe. Good job on this one. I hate working on all this top end stuff but it's much more manageable after watching someone knowledgeable walk through the process.
I agree on that point. After I see someone else do a job on youtube I always have that feeling in my gut that says "if they can do it then why can't I?" Knowing someone else did the job is pretty much always my motivation to keep going and figure it out on my own.
Question ⁉️. What if its not from any of the fuel lines... I just put a new rebuild engine from Ford i only put in about 15k miles the whole engine came with new fuel lines, fule bowl, hpop , torbo... And i have a small fule leak running down the back. Any ideas 💡
Good read i gotta a converted ambulance possibly this issue or the orings on the water/fuel sperator on the filter element but boy is it a bear to do i gotta pull both seats to remove the doghouse ... Due to all my switches and stuff i been puttin it off but stinking in the cab and rear area everyone leaves smellin like raw diesel lol...
@@AutomedicGarage yep you got that right I just got started yesterday pulling out my seats and got hit by dang hornet out me out fur the rest of the evening lol haven't hit a kick yet today it's pretty warm here in Texas.. but yeah mines got super bad raw fuel smell in my cab and in the back area leaves ya smelling of diesel and lite headed lol
Fortunately and unfortunately the valley catches so much of the diesel that leaks out that depending on how small your leak is, you may not notice anything dripping on the ground for a while.
Your correct but go look the part up with Ford. If you call whatever you want to call it they won’t find it. Even says return line on the package. I’m trying to help people find the part not confuse them. I understand how the fuel system works.
@@AutomedicGarage i got so frustrated after like 5 hours of trying different ways. i just took everything out, I loosened the pipe before as well. I finally have it back on. Had a leak in the exact same spot.
On the problem you had, is there anything a person could do to prevent this from happening? I have a 2000 F250. It isn't leaking from the return line but it's leaking from the filter housing area. This week i learned that when the temps are colder, (like -15°), the leak from the filter area gets way worse.
you need that P clamp in there with the new line or the line will move enough when its running to hit other parts on the engine. a couple layers of electrical tape over the pipe at that contact point will help. had this happen on my 03 E350 and I cut the old line in half and used high pressure rubber hose and clamps and found a larger diameter P clamp to fit it. lasted over 3 yrs until the Van returned to the rust gods.
It does fine without the hold down. I do them all that way with no returns. There is no other parts it comes close to vibrating against. I wouldn’t have recommended it if it was a proven thing for me over the years. Thanks for watching.
I have a 2003 E450 with this issues . Im physically disabled and unfortunately cant bend my arm enough to do something like this. Not sure which state your in , i travel alot with the weather . As a guesstimate what would a shop charge to do this exact job ?
I’ve had this question before but I’ve never had trouble with it. Keep the front nut loose so you can wiggle the line around and don’t use the brace on the line
Did this job today, start at the head and insert the pipe in the fitting on the engine with the o-ring and brass nut pushed up line an inch or two. Then reach in and push the nut down the line with the o-ring and start it by hand. Get up in there and you have just enough room to see the nut and what you are doing. Before running it all the way down start the fuel bowl end. I just moved the down pipe to the side and left the spider in place. I did remove the engine lift bracket, two bolts. I cut a line wrench in half, it was 2.75'' long. Tried a stubby but the line wrench stays on the line better. Once you get in a position where you can see the back nut this job becomes a lot easier.
Are you referring to me saying “CAC hose”? Who cares, charge air cooler pipe, hose, line whatever if you can’t understand what I’m referring to dont try repairing your own truck.
@AutomedicGarage yea on the factory one, I'm in process of removing that clamp and it'll be a little preventive maintenance. Had to replace one before and that shit took all day. That fitting on back on block has no room!
I see the problem in your install technique, you weren't holding your mouth right... Some days you just have to love engineers. Some days you just can't.
I have a f450 I have some type of leak I cant detecte the leak come from somewhere around the passenger side near the back door.....my ? Is is there any line that you have to remove the cab in order to work on on the f450 I have a 08 by the way
Man I have some type of fuild looks like break fuild but not sure its come out after I park once I'm sitting awhile it leaks out what could it be it's not by the engine it's by the back rear passenger side man this is crazy man I put my hand in the frame where the frame rails are and it's all on my hand man no smell but its oily grease type can some one help man I'm lost under the truck is not wet
No brake line on passenger frame rail, brake line runs down drivers side and goes to the T that’s in the middle of the rear end then to each brake. What type of service bed is on your truck?
My line just started spraying about 5pm or so today and after some digging came across your video. I’m 3 hours from Fort Worth heading to San Antonio to see a friend and if it wasn’t for this video I’d be spending a lot more money and time to repair my 99’ F250 which I bought a month ago. Never a dull moment. Very appreciative you made this video as it made diagnosing what fuel line failed and what it takes to repair much easier and save a lot from not having to pay labor costs since I’m comfortable with this kind of work. Thank you
Glad it helped, had to do a on the road fix on Mrs automedics 7.3 excursion the other day myself.
Dallas here i gotta do a leak on my campulance...
Great video! Straight to the point with very little BS. I appreciate your efforts to make this and share.
I just changed the gaskets on my fuel bowl, and ordered my return lines tonight. I don't think I am leaking much if any at all, but it's a 99 so I figure I might as well change out the lines while the truck is in its hiatus this over the winter months. I have already changed pretty much every sensor on the truck along with all other elctrical components. It looks like someone ran all new fuel lines on the bottom half of the truck before I purchased it, but the top half of the motor has been a bit neglected. I enjoy working on my powerstroke more than any other car or truck I have worked on. It's a fun truck for sure!!!
Yes they are fun
Thank you very much for sharing information on how to repair I have the same problem on my van that's how I found your video Thanks again
Glad it helped, thanks for watching.
Dude! What a great instructive video and to film it yourself is remarkable. One of the best how to videos I've seen.
Thanks for watching.
Excellent info and demonstrating! Appreciate it!
Awesome info. I have my cab off doing a bunch of other stuff and saw this line. I'm going to inspect this clamp area closely and see what I need to do.
Glad it helped
Awesome video, thank you for your help.
Mine just started leaking like a week ago sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn’t so i really need to look into it since i know is not the purge valve but might replace it as well great video bubba.
@@CesarHuert1915 if it only leaks sometimes it’s not this line. You don’t have a purge valve on a 7.3, you have fuel bowl drain. It has orings and can leak. I have a video on that
I watched this video on accident this morning looking for a different line i needed to replace. Put mine all back together and not even 30 minites down the road this one blew. Pita to get that back one in.
Well….hope it helped.
@AutomedicGarage did quite a bit. Wasn't able get it back together used Dorman (as it was in hand same day) and fought with it to get it on and messed up threads. Gonna see if I can get a oem one. Dorman ones come with a rubber grommet for the tube to prevent this from happening. Imagine never happen again regardless. 250k on it now
@AutomedicGarage seeing some of your other videos most definitely gonna be help in future too I bet. Own a excursion 7.3 and a f350 7.3. Most definitely a clear video to help and show many. Imagine other videos are this clear. Keep up good work
Just had this happen to me tonight 😅 I’ll be repairing it this weekend
Hope this helped. The fitting in the back of the head is a little bit of a booger but it’s doable with a wrench. Also I leave the bracket off to keep it from running through again in the future. Thanks for watching.
thanks for the info and time, got to do this to my e350... so much less room on a van. lol
@@alexweiss30 vans suck to work on
Great video. I just did the same job. However, you do not need to remove the pedestal. It takes a bit to worm the line but it is doable. Still good video.
I did not remove the pedestal. I did however remove the spyder. It takes a couple minutes and gives you way better access and view. Thanks for watching.
I found your video as I had a serious fuel leak coming home last week. 2001 7.3. I simply am having trouble getting the new line run back in! This is kinda ridiculous.
Be patient it ain’t bad
Hey Came across your video. I’m finishing up the same line tomorrow. They should have a flex line for this make much easier to route it. I still might make up a better support hanger.
Excelent video helpful tanks a lot sr.
@@macariotorres7115 thanks for watching
Just fixed my leaking fuel bowl a month ago and now this same line is leaking now...
Might do the otherside as well while im at it
Great video super helpful 👌
Good video but I'm dreading that connection on the back of the engine. Doesn't look like human sized hands fit in there. Probably will need to take off the down pipe. Good job on this one. I hate working on all this top end stuff but it's much more manageable after watching someone knowledgeable walk through the process.
I hope it helps, thanks for commenting and watching.
How in the world did you get it disconnected from the head in the back? I cannot get a wrench of any kind back there.
I agree on that point. After I see someone else do a job on youtube I always have that feeling in my gut that says "if they can do it then why can't I?" Knowing someone else did the job is pretty much always my motivation to keep going and figure it out on my own.
You can try a crows foot. I've seen many techs use them for that fitting.@@TheMfd420
Question ⁉️.
What if its not from any of the fuel lines...
I just put a new rebuild engine from Ford i only put in about 15k miles the whole engine came with new fuel lines, fule bowl, hpop , torbo...
And i have a small fule leak running down the back.
Any ideas 💡
Good read i gotta a converted ambulance possibly this issue or the orings on the water/fuel sperator on the filter element but boy is it a bear to do i gotta pull both seats to remove the doghouse ... Due to all my switches and stuff i been puttin it off but stinking in the cab and rear area everyone leaves smellin like raw diesel lol...
@@TattedTommysTv vans are no fun to work on unless it’s for pulling a trans or doing up pipes
@@AutomedicGarage yep you got that right I just got started yesterday pulling out my seats and got hit by dang hornet out me out fur the rest of the evening lol haven't hit a kick yet today it's pretty warm here in Texas.. but yeah mines got super bad raw fuel smell in my cab and in the back area leaves ya smelling of diesel and lite headed lol
It might have been already asked, but do you have to drain the fuel bowl?
Literally the exact same leak at the same spot on my 7.3
I'll be checking this out on my 2001 7.3. keep smelling diesel. nothing dripping on the ground though.
Check the fuel filter housing orings also
Fortunately and unfortunately the valley catches so much of the diesel that leaks out that depending on how small your leak is, you may not notice anything dripping on the ground for a while.
Good video but that is a feed line not return as the 7.3 doesn't have one from the factory.
Your correct but go look the part up with Ford. If you call whatever you want to call it they won’t find it. Even says return line on the package. I’m trying to help people find the part not confuse them. I understand how the fuel system works.
Good video man thanks
Thanks bud. Go check out all our other Powerstroke content. Thanks for watching.
Kinda wish you would’ve shown how you got that back fitting loose. I’ve been struggling for awhile now because the down pipe is in the way
Take the down pipe loose, I didn’t have to but that may help.
I had to take the whole turbo out 😅
@@javi8626 I just reach around the back of the head with a wrench and loosen the fitting, it’s a slow go but doable.
@@AutomedicGarage i got so frustrated after like 5 hours of trying different ways. i just took everything out, I loosened the pipe before as well. I finally have it back on. Had a leak in the exact same spot.
@@javi8626 so you took it out and put the same line back in?
Why can I not find one for the drivers side? Is it because it's so easy nobody needs a tutorial video? 🤔 😅
On the problem you had, is there anything a person could do to prevent this from happening? I have a 2000 F250. It isn't leaking from the return line but it's leaking from the filter housing area. This week i learned that when the temps are colder, (like -15°), the leak from the filter area gets way worse.
You can remove the hold down from the line. I never re install it.
you need that P clamp in there with the new line or the line will move enough when its running to hit other parts on the engine. a couple layers of electrical tape over the pipe at that contact point will help. had this happen on my 03 E350 and I cut the old line in half and used high pressure rubber hose and clamps and found a larger diameter P clamp to fit it. lasted over 3 yrs until the Van returned to the rust gods.
It does fine without the hold down. I do them all that way with no returns. There is no other parts it comes close to vibrating against. I wouldn’t have recommended it if it was a proven thing for me over the years. Thanks for watching.
What size p clamp did you use when using the high pressure hose
Where did you order the part from? Full force diesel, riff raff, etc?
Ford. They keep them in stock at my local ford. Think my price is $48
I have a 2003 E450 with this issues . Im physically disabled and unfortunately cant bend my arm enough to do something like this. Not sure which state your in , i travel alot with the weather . As a guesstimate what would a shop charge to do this exact job ?
The fuel line is around $60 I would charge $200 labor
Thank you for your response ✌️ will definitely give you a sub . Great video
@@guyfrom8659 thanks bud
Do you have a part number for the fuel bowl kit?
I do not buy dieselorings.com, fullforcediesel.com, and accuratediesel.com carry them
Did you have to drain the fuel bowl for this?
No, if it’s leaking already it self drains. Thanks for watching.
i cant get the nut on the back side of the head to start do you have any tips on how to get it started?
I’ve had this question before but I’ve never had trouble with it. Keep the front nut loose so you can wiggle the line around and don’t use the brace on the line
Did this job today, start at the head and insert the pipe in the fitting on the engine with the o-ring and brass nut pushed up line an inch or two. Then reach in and push the nut down the line with the o-ring and start it by hand. Get up in there and you have just enough room to see the nut and what you are doing. Before running it all the way down start the fuel bowl end. I just moved the down pipe to the side and left the spider in place. I did remove the engine lift bracket, two bolts. I cut a line wrench in half, it was 2.75'' long. Tried a stubby but the line wrench stays on the line better. Once you get in a position where you can see the back nut this job becomes a lot easier.
I got the same issue what tool did you use to take it off the header
A stubby 9/16 wrench
Were can I buy the seals for the lines that go to the back of the heads
Ford, international, dieselorings.com, accuratediesel.com, prosourcediesel.com
Great to know
Do you rebuild 7.3 s I have two of them that need to be done
Yes
I have a similar problem but mine is a 94 idi
Why call it a hose?
Are you referring to me saying “CAC hose”? Who cares, charge air cooler pipe, hose, line whatever if you can’t understand what I’m referring to dont try repairing your own truck.
Money is kinda tight do you think It would be possible to solder that leak with pipe solder
I would try a compression fitting before that I think, the hose wasn’t that much, maybe $50? I think
@@AutomedicGarage alright I’ll look into it I appreciate it
I paid 25 dollars at the Ford dealership
So what tool did you use use to get back there to loosen the fuel line?
Just a open end wrench
Its a bitch but if its not leaking remove the nut holding that line in place and fuel line will never leak!
That’s why I don’t put it back on.
@AutomedicGarage yea on the factory one, I'm in process of removing that clamp and it'll be a little preventive maintenance. Had to replace one before and that shit took all day. That fitting on back on block has no room!
@@dsimondublin done so many I can do it in under an hour
@AutomedicGarage wow your lucky! Easy removal, all day install!
I see the problem in your install technique, you weren't holding your mouth right...
Some days you just have to love engineers. Some days you just can't.
@@bryanst.martin7134 most days I can’t. Thanks for watching
I have a f450 are there any line in under the car of the truck
I’m not following your question.
I have a f450 I have some type of leak I cant detecte the leak come from somewhere around the passenger side near the back door.....my ? Is is there any line that you have to remove the cab in order to work on on the f450 I have a 08 by the way
Man I have some type of fuild looks like break fuild but not sure its come out after I park once I'm sitting awhile it leaks out what could it be it's not by the engine it's by the back rear passenger side man this is crazy man I put my hand in the frame where the frame rails are and it's all on my hand man no smell but its oily grease type can some one help man I'm lost under the truck is not wet
No brake line on passenger frame rail, brake line runs down drivers side and goes to the T that’s in the middle of the rear end then to each brake. What type of service bed is on your truck?
Its regular bed