Thanx Trey, my 02 F250 SD 7.3 with 140,950 miles just started to drip a few days ago, glad I found your video. I have been doing all my own maintenance and these videos will help me even more. I just ordered my o-rings, so in a few days I will be re building my drain valve and checking for leaks. Thanx again
Hey man, so just recently my truck has started starting really hard, or taking a long time for the engine to kick over. Batteries are new, alternator is new, wondering if the starter would cause this?
They were a larger 2" O-Ring that possibly came off the bottom of the old aftermarket filter. Removed them and changed the filter out and the drain valve, no more leaks and it runs much better!!! Thanks for the help
Did this repair today and this video and your other one showing the detailed fuel bowl rebuild were VERY helpful. One thing I would add is to make sure you remove the old fuel line sleeves as I found they like to hide inside the fitting (don't ask how I know) it may take some playing around with the line but they will show themselves. Do this while the fuel bowl is out, MUCH easier. My truck is an 02 Excursion and there were a few different sensors and things in the way but once you move them out of the way it really was'nt that bad at all. THANKS!!
Thanks for the video! My '01 F250 ECLB sprung a leak today so I'm hunting down the cause. Initial thought was the valve o-rings but I won't know more until I dig into it. I'll be referencing your videos while going through the process.
Thank you for saving me a tow fee and shop fee, I am going to go through your other video's on the bowl its self. But great video, in a hurry it was worth the information
Very helpful, thanks. Why did you remove the fuel line? Is it necessary in order to remove and service the fuel bowl or where you just going to repair that clip? Thanks
Sometimes from a dead stop, light tuns green, no response from gas pedal. A quick tap of the brake pedal and I'm back in business. Seems like something other than the TPS. Your thoughts?
Love the videos. much appreciated. I just replaced the drain valve, but it is still leaking. I didn't remove the whole bowl. COuld I have just not tightened the bolts enough? Or maybe striped out the bolts like you did? What was your solution for the stripped bolts?
Hey Trey, first, thank you for your AWESOME video's (no politics, religion, just the subject at hand) professional, intelligent and so NEEDED I honestly can't thank you enough. If I were a producer you'd have your own show. My magic ball predicts something like that in your near future. Thanks again. :)
Trey, great video, don't be so hard on yourself! I called my local Ford dealer and they had no idea what o-ring/rebuild kit I was talking about. Do you have a part# (2003 F-350) or can you tell me where to get one? Thanks and keep up the great work!
Thanks for posting this video,was very informative. My 02 is leaking at the drain valve,out the drain valve and somewhere else on top of the engine. So looks like it needs a bowl rebuild too. Can you use teflon tape on the threads or is that a no no? Great video thanks again!
Hi Trey I am changing the fuel filter on my 2001 7.3L and discovered there is 2 O rings down in the bowl below the filter. Are these from the factory? are they important and what purpose do they serve?? Thanks for the great videos
Hey I'm not sure if you've already posted this but just wondering those two metal fuel lines that run into the fuel bowl that you replaced or didn't replace those seals on where does it run too on the bottom side?
Hi Trey, I noticed that your yellow cap just falls off too...what gives with that design...looks like ford put a hole in it for screw. I just took mine off and put it in the glove box until I will need it. Great videos...thanks for the detail.
I dont know what you're talking about the video sucking.. Video was awesome brother.. I'll be tackling this on my powerstroke pretty soon and i need all the info i can get my hands on
Trey great job on videos. Can you help with this, my 2002 excursion 7.3L has a coolant leak it drips on top the exhaust manifold and then the starter can't seem to find the location but also can't identify the coolant from the A/C lines. ANY ideas?
Ok so i finally got the bowl out i hat to remove the turbo and from there forward it was a bit tight but know all im wating on is the diesel orings to arrive and put everything back on. Thax for ur vid very helpful
Just cycle the key on several times. When you turn the key to ON you'll hear the fuel pump. Just wait about 15 seconds, turn it off, then on again. Do this 3 or 4 times.
Trey, I have 2003 Excursion and F350 both with 7.3. Both smell like diesel but my Excursion is leaving a diesel trail. Watched your video about fuel bowl. I have fuel in the valley below bowl. Fuel is really heavy right over starter and transmission lines and trans cover. Is there a fuel line on passenger side at rear of engine that could be leaking. Also if it is from the bowl and filling up valley where does the fuel from the valley escape to?
I have replaced my water/fuel separate 2 times and I'm still leaking quite a bit. But I did not clean off on the fuel bowl where it goes on. Could that be a problem?? And the plug beside the separater vale, I just recently plugged mine in. Should I unplug it or not?
any advice on what to do about my truck not starting? I watched your fuel filter change video and I didnt drain the bowl, nor did I let the fuel pump cycle. Would that suck air into my lines? Im sorta at a loss here I am just now entering the diesel world
Unfortunately this just happened to me on fuel press relief: Due to the extreme weakness of the factory housing where the threaded compression fitting meets the housing body...broken the threads off of the factory housing. Usually when this happens it is necessary to cut off the flare end of the hard line in order to remove the broken piece and compression nut from the line. The hardline then needs to be re-flared but it is now shorter and may be difficult to connect back to a factory housing.
Is there a gasket on the top of fuel bowl? I can see fuel coming from just under black lid or top on the fuel bowl. And how does the black lid come off? Thanks.
Ok firsts of all i im mechanically inclined but absolutely not on diesel engines, and just recently bought a 99 e350 power stroke and i have been noticing diesel fuel in my engine valley that eventually runs down the side of my engine and by looking at all this vids i think its my fuel bowl, how hard is it to remove on a van and any tips since its my first diesel bowl rebuild or do u recommend taking it to a shop?
Roger that, I did not know if it was another reason for that. I hear every superduty make this noise from the ABS pump right before the glow plug light/WTS goes out. This is apparently normal I presume, or are all ABS unit's junk?
Great video! I'm trying to find the source of a major fuel leak in my 01 F350 Turbo 7.3. A small fuel leak started about 3 wks ago Now it's spewing out of what looks like the glow plug relay area. Any ideas what this could be? It looks like the fuel is literally SPRAYING from the relay or under it and spraying towards the driver side. Does it sound like something obvious besides the fuel bowl or drain valve? Is it easy to remove the glow plug relay (or move it out of the way) to inspect further?
Kind of a pain? It's a royal pain! I finally got the new fuel line in, though. It took me forever to get the fitting loose at the head. I have a new appreciation for mechanics. Now I understand why it costs so much to work on these trucks. I'm only 5'4" so I was sitting on top of anything I could under the hood just to reach everything. Anyway, now my check engine light is on. Could it be air in the system?
Also the flat injector/glow plug connector on top of the valve cover kept coming loose. I'm pretty sure I made certain it was connected before putting everything back together though.
You don't have to order that gasoila, you can pick that up at any plumbing supply store. I'm sure Home Depot sells something you can use as well. Remember diesel fuel is the same as home heating oil, they just add a red dye to the home heating oil- see DOT for reasons why. just don't get caught w/it in your tank unless you are tax exempt
I think this is Remove and Replace. I didn't see any 'Repair'! Thanks for showing where everything is, but it's kind of a bugger. Not much room to work, but it went back together easier than I expected. No one tells you how to get the old packing sleeves out of the fittings on the fuel lines. I was finally able to get hold of them by sticking a pick in there and spinning the fittings backwards whilst holding the rubber sleeve with the pick, and backed them out. Kind of tricky. I put the electrical connector on first, and the drain hose. Then the lowest 3 fittings, then started the bolts and had to force the filter housing back to get a wrench on the bolt behind that sending unit, whilst holding the coolant hose out of the way, or else the bolt was too tight to the sending unit. Could have used an extra hand or two. Oh, and break the filter cap loose before you loosen it too, or else you'll have to put it back on and drive it loose with a big punch and hammer, like I did.
thanks for video, but wish you had stressed how tough it is to get to these lines. btw, the bottom large line on driver side cannot start threading the nut due to new rubber washer pushing back. any tips on how to thread the nut back on when the washer is making it too hard to connect the threads ? nevermind, found that didn't remove all of the old washer and that plus the new one was making threading the nut impossible. now that it is back together and not leaking at all, forgetting some of the pain....God looks out for little children and fools
***** Why would it short? I live in New York, its still 30 degrees here on Long Island. Do I need that fuel heater to work? Is there a way to separate the PCM and fuel bowl heater plug so neither will effect the other?
I've got an issue with my 7.3L fuel bowl. A small wire loop connected to a piece of rubber. It appears to have been soldered to three pads but is now loose. What is this part and do you have a rebuild video for the inside?
I'm guessing you're doing this for visual effect and seeing the drain better but you don't have to remove all that. Just the 4 bolts on the drain itself. For accuracy mine is a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3.
Hey trey, i have a 99 7.3 and I would like to figure out what the piece you called the "fuel pressure regulator" is and where i need to go to get it. It is broken. Also, I can NOT get my truck to fire off all it will do is turn over. It ran fine and I went to change the fuel filter and it ran like poo for a while and now will not start at all. I was bleeding air from line and overtightened the nut and broke the threads clean off of the "fuel pressure regulator". Where could i get an FPR piece
At 2:00 we see the 2 bolts that hold the bowl on. Anyone doing this task without watching this video first would never know the Ford engineers (if you can call them engineers - shi#heads seems better) put the 2 bolts there to hold the bowl on. Plus, it's a pain to get to the 2 lines that go the the heads (passenger side of bowl on bottom). I took off what i think is a fuel heater for easier access (it looks like a voltage regulator. there's 2 of them inline. only took off the front one). Haven't put this thing back together yet.... Trey: Thanks for letting us know what the rubber bushings (sleeves) are for: 11:18 to 11:30.
hey bud what about the heater plug thats beside the drain valve did you replace the "O" ring behind that? I have a issue with that right now it is leaking fuel like crazy right behind that plug
Hi, I have a similar problem (I guess) - my truck (2002 F250 diesel) runs fine and suddenly runs like on 4 cylinders for some time, 5-20 minutes and then goes back to normal... I notice some black smoke but only when I floor it... Any help will be much appreciated! Thanks! Q.
Yes, I replaced the drain valve with three news... still leaking from the valve while the valve is in the closed position... what else could cause this... leaking out the drain valve into the drain line
i just rebuilt my fuel bowl and it's back to leaking at the drain valve and now the fuel pressure regulator i got a new drain valve on the way but what can i do about the regulator leaking?
I checked my ICP, is it supposed to have oil in it? I just did an oil change and my levels are right on, and pressure is great. My worry is the ICP and the fact it had some oil in it when I unplugged it. I cleaned it up a bit and plugged it back in. Still taking a while to kick over, its rough and loud for the first 30 seconds or so, then a normal idle and driving.
Or even better if you have a International dealer near you, you could call and see if they have the ICP in stock. They're usually really responsible with their prices on parts
trey Spooner I have a few questions , my truck has a rough time starting in the morning I have new glowplugs and injector o rings , I just replaced the fuel bowl drain valve , once I get the truck started and pull out of my driveway my truck seems to die on me right up the road but once I get it going its fine , could this be fuel pressure problem?
check your control computer module cost 120 bucks and 15 minutes to replace but a deisel shop charge you 1200 bucks! and probably use the one from a parts truck out back like they did for me. bastards.
My 7.3 truck wont idle or accelerate unless I unscrew the fuel filter cap on top of motor and allow diesel to flow out from under the cap onto manifold. Then it idles great and accelerates, however diesel fuel is leaking out while it runs. When I tighten the fuel cap and stops leaking, it wont run. Why is that
bro all i gotta say is you've saved many lives and peoples paychecks with your videos! well done good sire well done!
Thanx Trey, my 02 F250 SD 7.3 with 140,950 miles just started to drip a few days ago, glad I found your video. I have been doing all my own maintenance and these videos will help me even more. I just ordered my o-rings, so in a few days I will be re building my drain valve and checking for leaks. Thanx again
Hey man, so just recently my truck has started starting really hard, or taking a long time for the engine to kick over. Batteries are new, alternator is new, wondering if the starter would cause this?
They were a larger 2" O-Ring that possibly came off the bottom of the old aftermarket filter. Removed them and changed the filter out and the drain valve, no more leaks and it runs much better!!! Thanks for the help
Did this repair today and this video and your other one showing the detailed fuel bowl rebuild were VERY helpful. One thing I would add is to make sure you remove the old fuel line sleeves as I found they like to hide inside the fitting (don't ask how I know) it may take some playing around with the line but they will show themselves. Do this while the fuel bowl is out, MUCH easier. My truck is an 02 Excursion and there were a few different sensors and things in the way but once you move them out of the way it really was'nt that bad at all. THANKS!!
This video didn't suck. It shows all the essentials and nothing boring. Good Job. Liked and subscribed.
Very Helpful. Gives me the courage to try it. I've had the leak for awhile. I'll be watching more of your videos.
Thanks for the informative videos on the 7.3. As a DIY guy who is use to gas these are spot on! Now to search for upgrades for more power. Joel
Thanks for the video! My '01 F250 ECLB sprung a leak today so I'm hunting down the cause. Initial thought was the valve o-rings but I won't know more until I dig into it. I'll be referencing your videos while going through the process.
Hello there Thank you for teaching and taking your time doing it
Question did you get your parts ? If you can let me know Thanks
Thank you for saving me a tow fee and shop fee, I am going to go through your other video's on the bowl its self. But great video, in a hurry it was worth the information
Very helpful, thanks. Why did you remove the fuel line? Is it necessary in order to remove and service the fuel bowl or where you just going to repair that clip? Thanks
Sometimes from a dead stop, light tuns green, no response from gas pedal. A quick tap of the brake pedal and I'm back in business. Seems like something other than the TPS. Your thoughts?
Love the videos. much appreciated. I just replaced the drain valve, but it is still leaking. I didn't remove the whole bowl. COuld I have just not tightened the bolts enough? Or maybe striped out the bolts like you did? What was your solution for the stripped bolts?
Hey Trey, first, thank you for your AWESOME video's (no politics, religion, just the subject at hand) professional, intelligent and so NEEDED I honestly can't thank you enough. If I were a producer you'd have your own show. My magic ball predicts something like that in your near future. Thanks again. :)
Trey, great video, don't be so hard on yourself! I called my local Ford dealer and they had no idea what o-ring/rebuild kit I was talking about. Do you have a part# (2003 F-350) or can you tell me where to get one? Thanks and keep up the great work!
Thank you for your time. This helped me big time. I had no idea how to fix the fuel leak.
Thanks for posting this video,was very informative. My 02 is leaking at the drain valve,out the drain valve and somewhere else on top of the engine. So looks like it needs a bowl rebuild too. Can you use teflon tape on the threads or is that a no no? Great video thanks again!
Hi Trey I am changing the fuel filter on my 2001 7.3L and discovered there is 2 O rings down in the bowl below the filter. Are these from the factory? are they important and what purpose do they serve?? Thanks for the great videos
Hey I'm not sure if you've already posted this but just wondering those two metal fuel lines that run into the fuel bowl that you replaced or didn't replace those seals on where does it run too on the bottom side?
Hi Trey, I noticed that your yellow cap just falls off too...what gives with that design...looks like ford put a hole in it for screw. I just took mine off and put it in the glove box until I will need it.
Great videos...thanks for the detail.
I dont know what you're talking about the video sucking.. Video was awesome brother.. I'll be tackling this on my powerstroke pretty soon and i need all the info i can get my hands on
Trey great job on videos. Can you help with this, my 2002 excursion 7.3L has a coolant leak it drips on top the exhaust manifold and then the starter can't seem to find the location but also can't identify the coolant from the A/C lines. ANY ideas?
Ok so i finally got the bowl out i hat to remove the turbo and from there forward it was a bit tight but know all im wating on is the diesel orings to arrive and put everything back on. Thax for ur vid very helpful
Nice video and good job. I'm about to have to do this on my truck.
Thanks for the video, can you explain how to prime the motor? Thanks
Just cycle the key on several times. When you turn the key to ON you'll hear the fuel pump. Just wait about 15 seconds, turn it off, then on again. Do this 3 or 4 times.
Thanks for this video bro saved my ass I bought the kit and can't wait until I get a chance to install it.
Trey, I have 2003 Excursion and F350 both with 7.3. Both smell like diesel but my Excursion is leaving a diesel trail. Watched your video about fuel bowl. I have fuel in the valley below bowl. Fuel is really heavy right over starter and transmission lines and trans cover. Is there a fuel line on passenger side at rear of engine that could be leaking. Also if it is from the bowl and filling up valley where does the fuel from the valley escape to?
You helped me a lot. Good job explaining what you are doing. 👍
I have replaced my water/fuel separate 2 times and I'm still leaking quite a bit. But I did not clean off on the fuel bowl where it goes on. Could that be a problem?? And the plug beside the separater vale, I just recently plugged mine in. Should I unplug it or not?
Very nice job. Love the detail. Thanks for sharing.
Very helpful. Fixed my leak quickly.
any advice on what to do about my truck not starting? I watched your fuel filter change video and I didnt drain the bowl, nor did I let the fuel pump cycle. Would that suck air into my lines? Im sorta at a loss here I am just now entering the diesel world
Unfortunately this just happened to me on fuel press relief:
Due to the extreme weakness of the factory housing where the threaded compression fitting meets the housing body...broken the threads off of the factory housing. Usually when this happens it is necessary to cut off the flare end of the hard line in order to remove the broken piece and compression nut from the line. The hardline then needs to be re-flared but it is now shorter and may be difficult to connect back to a factory housing.
Is there a gasket on the top of fuel bowl? I can see fuel coming from just under black lid or top on the fuel bowl. And how does the black lid come off? Thanks.
I'm going to be replacing my water/oil separator. After installation what's the proper way to prime/ refill the bowl before starting? Thanks
I appreciate all your vids Trey. I'm learning alot!
Ok firsts of all i im mechanically inclined but absolutely not on diesel engines, and just recently bought a 99 e350 power stroke and i have been noticing diesel fuel in my engine valley that eventually runs down the side of my engine and by looking at all this vids i think its my fuel bowl, how hard is it to remove on a van and any tips since its my first diesel bowl rebuild or do u recommend taking it to a shop?
Awesome, informative video. You saved my a bundle of cash I couldn't afford to part with, thanks
What tool did you use to loosen the line from the passenger side head?
Roger that, I did not know if it was another reason for that. I hear every superduty make this noise from the ABS pump right before the glow plug light/WTS goes out. This is apparently normal I presume, or are all ABS unit's junk?
Great video! I'm trying to find the source of a major fuel leak in my 01 F350 Turbo 7.3. A small fuel leak started about 3 wks ago Now it's spewing out of what looks like the glow plug relay area. Any ideas what this could be? It looks like the fuel is literally SPRAYING from the relay or under it and spraying towards the driver side. Does it sound like something obvious besides the fuel bowl or drain valve? Is it easy to remove the glow plug relay (or move it out of the way) to inspect further?
Thanks for the quick response! Is the line easy to get to? Are you talking about the same line and clip in this video?
Kind of a pain? It's a royal pain! I finally got the new fuel line in, though. It took me forever to get the fitting loose at the head. I have a new appreciation for mechanics. Now I understand why it costs so much to work on these trucks. I'm only 5'4" so I was sitting on top of anything I could under the hood just to reach everything. Anyway, now my check engine light is on. Could it be air in the system?
Also the flat injector/glow plug connector on top of the valve cover kept coming loose. I'm pretty sure I made certain it was connected before putting everything back together though.
***** I checked sensor connections and service engine light went off. Now smell exhaust in cab. Possibly didn't get turbo manifold back on right?
Gina Dyingtoknow The y pipe that attaches to the front of the turbo charger with a v clamp. I apologize.... I'm a total novice. =-O
You don't have to order that gasoila, you can pick that up at any plumbing supply store. I'm sure Home Depot sells something you can use as well. Remember diesel fuel is the same as home heating oil, they just add a red dye to the home heating oil- see DOT for reasons why. just don't get caught w/it in your tank unless you are tax exempt
I think this is Remove and Replace. I didn't see any 'Repair'! Thanks for showing where everything is, but it's kind of a bugger. Not much room to work, but it went back together easier than I expected. No one tells you how to get the old packing sleeves out of the fittings on the fuel lines. I was finally able to get hold of them by sticking a pick in there and spinning the fittings backwards whilst holding the rubber sleeve with the pick, and backed them out. Kind of tricky. I put the electrical connector on first, and the drain hose. Then the lowest 3 fittings, then started the bolts and had to force the filter housing back to get a wrench on the bolt behind that sending unit, whilst holding the coolant hose out of the way, or else the bolt was too tight to the sending unit. Could have used an extra hand or two. Oh, and break the filter cap loose before you loosen it too, or else you'll have to put it back on and drive it loose with a big punch and hammer, like I did.
Trey man, great quality video!!! Hopefully you can do more videos bout your 7.3L. So I can do the same to mine, I have a 2003 F350 7.3L.
thanks for video, but wish you had stressed how tough it is to get to these lines.
btw, the bottom large line on driver side cannot start threading the nut due to new rubber washer pushing back.
any tips on how to thread the nut back on when the washer is making it too hard to connect the threads ?
nevermind, found that didn't remove all of the old washer and that plus the new one was making threading the nut impossible.
now that it is back together and not leaking at all, forgetting some of the pain....God looks out for little children and fools
Why do you leave the heater plug unplugged? Mine is unplugged now. I plugged it back in. Should I unplug it??
***** Why would it short? I live in New York, its still 30 degrees here on Long Island. Do I need that fuel heater to work? Is there a way to separate the PCM and fuel bowl heater plug so neither will effect the other?
***** Where is the fuse located?I appreciate the support
I've got an issue with my 7.3L fuel bowl. A small wire loop connected to a piece of rubber. It appears to have been soldered to three pads but is now loose. What is this part and do you have a rebuild video for the inside?
trey great video...where can i order the rebuild kit?
i have a problem with the oil pump in my ford 7.3 lt. I wonder if you have a video or know if they repair the high pressure pumps.
thanks
At the end as you're saying "no leak" there is a puddle in the engine valley, maybe it was there already, or maybe it occurred while priming....
I'm guessing you're doing this for visual effect and seeing the drain better but you don't have to remove all that. Just the 4 bolts on the drain itself.
For accuracy mine is a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3.
do you have a hpop or woukd you be interested in doing one?
What size is that fuel drain hose and where do you hook it up at? the back of the shut off valve?
Got to love it when you find stuff that's already loose! lol. Love the videos man, you're Patriot on PSA right? I'm 01PSD
i want it do the rebuilt on my 7.3L 97 f250.!
is the same like your video.?
Hey trey, i have a 99 7.3 and I would like to figure out what the piece you called the "fuel pressure regulator" is and where i need to go to get it. It is broken. Also, I can NOT get my truck to fire off all it will do is turn over. It ran fine and I went to change the fuel filter and it ran like poo for a while and now will not start at all. I was bleeding air from line and overtightened the nut and broke the threads clean off of the "fuel pressure regulator". Where could i get an FPR piece
Where do you buy your sleeves and O rings the stealership wants a fortune for half of what is needed?
At 2:00 we see the 2 bolts that hold the bowl on. Anyone doing this task without watching this video first would never know the Ford engineers (if you can call them engineers - shi#heads seems better) put the 2 bolts there to hold the bowl on. Plus, it's a pain to get to the 2 lines that go the the heads (passenger side of bowl on bottom). I took off what i think is a fuel heater for easier access (it looks like a voltage regulator. there's 2 of them inline. only took off the front one). Haven't put this thing back together yet.... Trey: Thanks for letting us know what the rubber bushings (sleeves) are for: 11:18 to 11:30.
good video I'm new one Diesel engines
thanks for your help
hey bud what about the heater plug thats beside the drain valve did you replace the "O" ring behind that? I have a issue with that right now it is leaking fuel like crazy right behind that plug
Screw hole on the bowl was stripped? What did you do for that?
I have to do this in a van. This is going to suck.
Will the fuel drain valve make it leake fuel after you shut it off?
If left open, yes.
ive got diesel sitting in the valley under the fuel bowl and the back of the bowl is all caked in diesel so i imagine its got a bad o ring somewhere
Hi, I have a similar problem (I guess) - my truck (2002 F250 diesel) runs fine and suddenly runs like on 4 cylinders for some time, 5-20 minutes and then goes back to normal...
I notice some black smoke but only when I floor it...
Any help will be much appreciated!
Thanks!
Q.
very very clear the instructions thank you sir
Great video man, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
where are they available to purchase?
whats the first line called and how hard is it to replace the whole line
Hey I have a fuel leak on my 97 F350 7.3 it's running off the tranny but no fuel on the block
Yes, I replaced the drain valve with three news... still leaking from the valve while the valve is in the closed position... what else could cause this... leaking out the drain valve into the drain line
Are you using new orings and screws? The screws strip out very easy in the bowl.
Thank you
i just rebuilt my fuel bowl and it's back to leaking at the drain valve and now the fuel pressure regulator i got a new drain valve on the way but what can i do about the regulator leaking?
I checked my ICP, is it supposed to have oil in it? I just did an oil change and my levels are right on, and pressure is great. My worry is the ICP and the fact it had some oil in it when I unplugged it. I cleaned it up a bit and plugged it back in. Still taking a while to kick over, its rough and loud for the first 30 seconds or so, then a normal idle and driving.
Ok, thats what I was thinking. Thank you. Any suggestions for where to get a decent priced replacement?
Or even better if you have a International dealer near you, you could call and see if they have the ICP in stock. They're usually really responsible with their prices on parts
About how long does this take overall
A couple of hours
Thanks man your videos really help out.
Good video dude !
Why leave the fuel heater plug unplugged?
how do you get the fuel line tight?
how do you release the hard line just below the drain valve. It looks like it has a rubber fitting on a 90 degree bend
what forums are you on for 7.3l powerstroke. i have a 2003 7.3l super duty
Thank you so much for this video!! It's exstremly helpful!!
How do you fix a Ford 350 Powerstroke the fuel and water cable looks like a dipstick how to install a new one
trey Spooner I have a few questions , my truck has a rough time starting in the morning I have new glowplugs and injector o rings , I just replaced the fuel bowl drain valve , once I get the truck started and pull out of my driveway my truck seems to die on me right up the road but once I get it going its fine , could this be fuel pressure problem?
check your control computer module cost 120 bucks and 15 minutes to replace but a deisel shop charge you 1200 bucks! and probably use the one from a parts truck out back like they did for me. bastards.
I have a 91 with a 7.3 dose my truck have one because it keeps losing prime
***** why do you leave the heater unplugged?
Great video
why do you leave your heater coil plug unplugged
Yeah mine kept blowing a fuse. I'm gonna be trying to find my fuel leak tomorrow I guess
My 7.3 truck wont idle or accelerate unless I unscrew the fuel filter cap on top of motor and allow diesel to flow out from under the cap onto manifold. Then it idles great and accelerates, however diesel fuel is leaking out while it runs. When I tighten the fuel cap and stops leaking, it wont run. Why is that
When you unscrew the cap, is the fuel bowl full?
@@TruckStuff1 yes
Yes it fills up
I can open the fuel dump and it will start and run great but as soon as I close it...it dies
took the spring out of regulator and it still does same thing. Perhaps the return tube is blocked
yes
Thanks for the video!!!
thx for your help!!
i need the part numbers of the fuel line sleeves for the fuel bowl. '00 7.3 power stroke.
silicone spray for lube! thumbs up for silicone spray
Can i contact you
treyawake@gmail.com
90% of time the "drain valve" or "petcock" leaks... dont ever open to change the fuel filter
10:56 Deez nuts
It's a van
Um um um um um um
Why is the fuel heat plug smoking?