How to use Monokote Covering and types of tools needed Part 1
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2021
- In this video I show you how I cover a RC Model airplane fuselage with Top Flite Monokote iron on plastic covering. Also I show you a few common tools needed to get the job done! I also cover Cover Grip Adhesive on fuel soaked wood and monokote over monokote applications. I also explain why we start covering the bottom of our models first with monokote. Overall this video is great for the new comer to Monokote covering material and or new to the world of RC airplane building and finishing. So sit back relax and enjoy this informative video in the world of Radio Control Airplane building.
Merch Store
www.bayonasrcworld.com 
Развлечения
Just watching you to brush up on my covering skills and then you said Guam, I spent three yrs. Up on NAS in the mid 80s..Loved it.
Awesome!
Brilliant video. Thanks for sharing. Im going to make my first attempt at covering a plane and this video of yours will help me immensely. Im flying 38 years and ive never covered a plane before. Last night i decided to take off the covering of my 14 year old World Models Super Frontier Senior, its a copy of a Sig Kadet Senior. Its a very relaxing plane to fly and i power mine with a Saito 72 fourstroke. The covering was falling off, Toughlon it is called. So im hoping to recover it with Oracover. I would have preferred Monocote but it is now very difficult to get as Top flite has stopped making it and i live in Ireland. Many thanks again for your help. You have explained everything really well. If i make half as good a job as you then i will be happy. Kind regards.
Thank you very much. Also I have more covering videos here in my channel.
I just recently received a rc airplane from a close friend with cancer. I would always kid him about how I was going to fly it one day. I was over to his home and was fixing a isue with his bathroom. While I was working he had his wife put it in my car. I ask him about it and he simply said make it fly again. I am new to this sort of hobby and have watched hrs of videos on basically replacing everything but the wood and 2 stroke nitro engine. Determined tomake it fly. I want to thank you for a straightforward not alot of useless talk video. This is going to be a great start at age 48 to a new hobby. Would include a pic of the plane but can't figure out how to send it in comments.
Awesome! Welcome to the world of RC and flight. You could post photos or and see daily updates and or other post that I make aside from the youtube ready content through the Bayona's RC World Facebook group. Click on the link and I will be glad to help you out even further should you have other questions. facebook.com/groups/1102320606822541/?ref=share
If you read this 2 years later, drop us an update. I'd live to hear if you made her fly again!
Yes this model have taken to the skies days after this video was made. I have a few videos on the Bayona's RC World Facebook group
This is one of the best tutorials I have ever seen on applying MonoKote. Thanks! Your information has been so very helpful!
Thank you for the kind words and most of all I am glad that my video could help you out. Thank you for watching.
woah, wish I knew the soldering iron trick back in the day. Great tips on how to apply monokote!
Right on brother! Yeah I have been using my soldering iron like this for a few decades now. Actually I was using a wood burning iron in the past and the 60watt soldering iron. However they took forever to heat up! After finding this Ryobi soldering station it has been a game changer for sure. Faster heat up and shuts down if not in use compared to the cheaper ones. Plus this station is either powered up by a power cord or 18v battery so it makes it awesome for being portable.
Good job … I like to fly instead of all that time to build ….ARF for me now on 😀
Nothing wrong about that!
Bro. The content in this video are like that plane. GOLD!
Glad you liked it!! I am glad that the video was useful for someone out there.
Thanks for your very instructive videos, back in RC covering business after many years I had to refresh my mind and learn from experienced person : perfectly well explained and demonstrated : THANKS from a French RC glider builder (last build in process is Intro F5j, next step is covering a 3 m wingspan...)
Awesome my friend! Glad that the video could refresh the mind. Thank you for watching.
Nice to see someone still using Monokote. I just purchased some old stock 26' rolls to recover my 46% Ultimate. Probably going to take me all winter! I will definitely be incorporating some of your tips for the recover. Great vids! Subscribed!
Thank you very much! Yes been using Monokote for the past 40 years in the hobby and just stuck with it. I prefer Monokote over the other covering materials from personal experience and years of using them. Thanks again for watching my video and subscribing to the channel.
I have thank you.
@@BayonasRCWorld 40 years? What? I’m 39 and I was like happy yet surprised to see someone much younger than me doing such incredible work. Lol. I guess you look young for your age.
@@gtm624 much appreciated it! Two more years and I hit 50
Excellent video, thanks for the tips!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent!!! 100 thumbs up👍👍👍👍
Much appreciated!
Great intro! 👍👍🤙👍🤙
Thank you excellent videos very educational for me!!
Glad you enjoyed the content and found it educational. I want to show that it is achievable.
The best example is the Chippy you have as background.
Very beautiful ,
Thanks for liking my friend! stay connected ,Hey, enjoy the day for this morning, I do not walk to where you are. like 12 🔔
Thank you very much!
Thx. Got some for my balsa but didn’t have a clue about putting it on
Awesome! Hope this helped somewhat in the world of many videos. Thanks for watching! If you have any questions I would be glad to help.
so creative! thank you for sharing your intelligence with us:))
Thank you for the comment 😊🙏
Thanks alot for these covering videos. These are the best learning vid on here. I finally know how to cover a wing and plane the right way. No more wingin' it, pun intended.
Thank you for the kind words. I am glad that the videos was able to give you a better look at how it is done. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask me. I am glad to help.
@@BayonasRCWorld actually, I do have a question. How smooth do you have to get the ribs and and the rest of the wing. You can really get carried away with sanding to a point that you can even change the shape of the ribs. Thanks
Yes! One thing for sure is when sanding ribs do not alter the shape. If you have plans always refer to the plans during sanding if you can. I normally do a light sanding to the ribs with 320 or 400 grit paper just to sand the area smooth. When sanding sheeting I normally first start with 220 then 320 and 400 sand and knock down any ridges or sheeting seams. Most should have been done prior to sheeting. Then start sanding going to finer grit. You should have a smooth finish and surface. Dust off with air compressor and tack cloth then start covering.
As far as when to stop sanding is something that you have to figure out by feel, sight, and if you are making the sheeting too thin you must stop. Just take it slow and always verify your sanding work. This has always been the issue of some. Not knowing when to stop sanding.
What temp do you have on your heating iron? I think I burned my monokote cause I see white marks. And what do you use on your iron. it doesnt look like the compatible iron sock.
I am glad I spotted your video I like your technique. I am ordering the iron with the small head which will make it easier to post in small places. Plus the different ways Monokote on Monokote.. thank you for showing different ways to attach Monokote.. I noticed when you used the glue there was some residue on the outside edges of the gray window,when you were squeezing the bubbles out.. does it wipe off easily?.. Thanks Again great video I am a new subscriber.
Yes it cleans of easy with water or alcohol. I show the windex method in full on my Dynaflite Super Decathlon Covering video applying Sunburst
Also thank you for subscribing I truly appreciate you.
I bought some of this cover grip stuff. it smells a lot like regular old white school glue from elmers. I bet it's the same thing but 8 times more expensive.
To be honest I thought the same, I even considered it to resemble more like Modge-podge Matt version. Never tried testing those theories just yet.
Just to add, there are two reasons to cover from the bottom up. The first, as you commented, is to keep fuel from getting under the covering at the seams. So, the electric guys say, "well, I don't have to worry about that." so, here's the second reason. When people look at your plane, they are usually looking down at it. With the seams facing down, they seem to disappear. If they face up they are easily seen and detract from the appearance.
Yes very true and a third which I forgot to mention is for aerodynamic reasons as well. Keeping all the seams down and with the flow of air over the surface. This way the air does not lift the edges causing lifting and possible structure damage should the covering peel back and cause flutter.
Regarding the oily residue that forms on the fuselage and wing from the fuel exhaust, would it be practical to install some kind of an extended tube onto the muffler outlet to direct the exhaust towards the rear and further away from the wing and fuselage, or would this just add to the drag and change the aerodynamic flight properties?
@@antoniomontana9430 Look at Dubro RC, they have exhaust extenders that fit over the muffler outlet and direct exhaust away from the plane. There will still be some that blows onto the plane, but quite a bit less than you are probably experiencing.
@@antoniomontana9430 yes Dubro does carry exhaust deflectors at different sizes depending on your muffler type.
It's the same when you wallpaper a room you do the furthest point away from the door first... so that the shadow line is not seen
I see you were covering an Avistar I have a used wing and a new fuselage you've inspired me to recover the whole plane even though it's a new fuselage. However the canopy on that plane is so fragile. Do you have any ideas on how to construct a new one as the one I have is all cracked up? Based on your videos I ordered some cover grip also!
Yeah my Avistar is over 7 years old and the plastic canopy so far has held up throughout the years. However I did plan on making replacement canopy out of lite ply and balsa. Or even making a plug and vacuum forming it.
I have same iron. What are your settings (Celsius or Fahrenheit) the iron has both,
for tacking, shrinking and monocote over monocote. Also did you ever add heat to the winded piece?
If you ever have the opportunity to show more compound curves like wing tips or curved fuselage, I’d like to see that. Liked seeing the compound curve at the front.
Always outstanding work!
For the windex application I did go over with the iron later which I realized I had left that part out during the editing process. As far as the iron temperature's I had never set my temps to exact numbers. I always just test on actual pieces during covering. I had never relied on the dial on the iron or thermometer for my heat settings and I have been doing this for 40 years with perfect results. If you have a pocket thermometer then you can give it a test on different temps on your covering material. Monokote requires more heat that Ultracoate! I will do more videos on different compound curves for sure. at the moment I still have the wing and tail section to cover. More to come for sure my friend.
Love your videos. 78 and getting back into hobby. I build and fly control line planes and am trying monokote for first time. Your video has been very helpful. Could you possibly do a vid covering scalloped edges and covering tips where lines come out of tips. Is it best to cover first or assemble first. Reason for question is with 1/8 inch stabs etc , if you trim mono under surface to expose wood you either cut out too much or dont have enough surface to get good glueing surface. Any help would be appreciated.
Depending on the model will determine if I will cover the Stab and Fin before securing it onto the fuselage. Some kits require the use of filler or blocks shaped between fuse, fin and stab where covering will not be feasible prior to installing. As far as covering scalloped edges you can cover any edge with strips of covering first then after apply the bottom and top covering after with a 1/8" to 1/16" overlap.
A good friend was close to finishing a Sea Fury. But sickness in family he is getting out for a while and I picked up the plane. I’m brand new in this part and will be covering the fuselage and tail sections. Your videos have been great. One question, I want to keep his theme which is a a blue on top section of the fuselage and a gray on the bottom. How to cut/keep a straight line down the length of the fuselage on a side? In particular this is a round fuselage.
Sorry to hear about your friend. As far as a straight line I would just use masking tape and if you have a long aluminum straight edge ruler like a 36" or longer you will be able to make a continuous straight line using the tape while using the ruler as a guide. You can use the tape as a underlying layer under the blue iron down the blue up to the tape edge and use the tape edge as a guide to cut the covering. Just don't cut into the bottom covering under the blue. So many ways this can be done. Just gotta find one that you feel comfortable doing.
Also use a new blade when cutting.
What do you recommend for surface prepping the wood prior to covering? I've heard some say to lightly sand then wipe it down with a degreasing agent followed by a light shop vacuuming, but I'm weary of using any chemicals on balsa so as not to cause it to swell or deform.
Sand using progressively finer grit sandpaper then if you have a compressor blow the entire part of any balsa dust or vacuum the structure. Do not use any chemicals or liquids no need. If you are really concerned then get some tack cloth from your local automobile paint dealer.
Nice video. Question? When using the Windex method of Monokote over Monokote, do you apply heat with the covering iron after Windex dries out? Thanks
You don't have to but if you want just use low heat and just make sure all has dried out otherwise you will have bubbles. The Ammonia in the windex softens the monokote adhesive making the covering stick well to eachother. Just squeeze out all the windex with a spreader for a bubble free finish and let dry. Easy peasy Lemmon squeezy!
I just subscribed to your channel you should be able to get your RUclips plaque now! 1000+ subscribers good job! My name is Shawn Sweat Sr I’m a fellow hobby enthusiasts and enjoy watching your RUclips videos. I’m also a Airwolf fan. I would love to see a build of the airwolf bell 222 . Any way glad to meet you and keep up the good work
Thank you for taking the time to subscribe to my channel. I am just enjoying my hobby of 40 years and just love sharing and giving back to the one hobby that kept me grounded and out of trouble during my younger years. Without this hobby I have no idea where I would be today. I am and have always been a Airwolf fan since I first saw the TV show back in the 80's. I built the Bell Jet Ranger 206 RC version to model after Dominic Santini's helicopter in the show. Unfortunately I have yet to build the Lady! I have assembled the Roban Superscale 800 size Airwolf which you can see here on my channel as well. You can see it in my playlist of RC helicopters. Thanks again for the sub and nice meeting you as well.
Is there a a paintable shrink covering out there? I recall seeing a YouTbe video on it but don't remember what brand name it was sold under. You could basically spray paint it with a rattle can or airbrush.
Solartex or Sig Koverall a fabric covering that can be painted.
very nice work. what temprature you use on monokote ?
I don't actually read my temps. I go based on what the heat is doing to the monokote. I actually have the dial all the way to max temp. Then I test that heat on a scrap piece of covering if it melts the covering then I turn it down some. Throughout the covering process depending on what is I am covering, compound curve, wing tip, 90 deg, flat surface, open bay etc..I will either turn up or lower the heat.
great job on the videos!!! where are you located??
The Pacific Island of Guam
Your vids are very helpful. But I'm having problems with the monokote. Idsadssdassd used the neon orange monokote and when I iron the monokote I get these white streaks. The streaks look like the grain in wood. Do you know why this may be happening. Is there any brand covering that are better than others. Which brand do u use? thanks
Neon colors are alittle more sensitive to heat so reduce your heat because what it is doing is separating the color from the plastic. Also when you are out at the field try and keep your plane in a shaded area otherwise the sun will fade your neon colors.
@@BayonasRCWorld Very interesting that you said that about the neon because it hasent happened on any other colors i used except this neon orange. It was driving me crazy not knowing why it kept happening cause i kept ruining pieces. I'll try it with minimal heat. thanks for the help
@@genes6703 let me know how it goes
Hi, I’ve got quick question. After I put the balsa wing together, some of the seems of the sheeting on the wing have a mm separation. Will the seems that aren’t perfect show thru when I cover it. Or do I have to use a wood filler on all the seems to get everything perfectly smooth. Thanks
All imperfections will show up when covered with monokote. Gaps will need to be filled and seams will need to be smooth as you can get it.
Ok so I still struggle with trapped air bubbles when covering a solid balsa or ply surface like a tail or stab or even parts of the fuse. I seal all edges before shrinking with heat gun. Get bubbles every time. Do you leave a gap in an edge before shrinking? I typically have to poke holes in the bubbled area which helps but there has to be a better way than I'm doing it.
On a sheeted surface like a fuselage or wing, stab etc always iron down from the middle out towards any open end ensuring full contact of the iron to the covering at all times moving either a small circular motion or back and forth. You do not want to seal the edges and use your heat gun to shrink the covering over any solid area or sheeted area because air bubbles will form.
The only time you can seal the edges and then shrink the covering drum tight is if you are covering open structures like a unsheeted stab, fin, elevator, ail or even wing.
WILL MONOCOAT COVER PLISTIC FRAM WORK THANK U RON
Depending on the plastic thickness. If the plastic is thin then it might melt during monokote application. It can be done if using low heat. I have covered over plastic cowls, wingtips etc. However in my earlier days I had also melted some plastic.
what about painting foam planes. do you know what kind of airbrush paint will work? I want to try airbrushing a design on my new plane
For foam I use Createx Airbrush paints or Wicked Airbrush paints. However this was on Flite Test foam board and FMS foamy.
@@BayonasRCWorld ok cool, I have a bunch of createx from painting rc cars. Gonna give it a shot. Thanks
Can you please post a link to where I can purchase the trimming tool you use in the early parts of the video?
www.ebay.com/itm/Top-Flite-Monokote-Smart-Cut-Trimming-Tool-TOPR2400-Brand-New-In-Package-/224746637982?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
@@BayonasRCWorld Awesome...thanks a million!
Back in the mid 1980s when I was a teenager, I was gifted a Great Planes PT40 trainer which I messed up royally both building and covering it. I was an impatient kid and didn't have the maturity nor understanding in what proper tools I needed to get a professional looking model built and covered. My dad ended up shelling out a few hundred bucks to a professional old school aero modeler we met at an AMA Flying Field to fully rebuild the kit and cover it professionally with monokote. Now that I'm in my late 40s, more patient with attention to detail (parenting requirements), I'm thinking of getting back into the hobby as I'm quite confident that I can bang out these model builds and coverings like a pro thanks to RUclips and channels like yours. Too bad we didn't have the world wide web and RUclips back in the 80s when I was a kid. We basically had to learn these skills by trial and error and that in itself got very expensive after a while.
@@antoniomontana9430 yes exactly! How tines has changed but as far as basics in balsa building remains the same overall. Even myself starting this hobby back in 1982 at only 8 years old building rubber powered balsa stick and tissue covered models to this very day 39 years later has been a fun journey for sure. Yeah back then we only had magazines to look into and books if you were lucky to purchase them, yet alone understand the materials and putting it all into motion. We'll glad you are getting back at it and for sure you will be successful. Best of luck my friend!
Do you have a video on using winded to apply monokote on monokote?
Windex
@@kemsmith3420 at the end of this video I show the different methods to apply monokote over monokote which includes windex.
@@BayonasRCWorld windex looks like the way to go, your thoughts?
When done correctly will produce excellent results. For me personally I prefer low heat and slowly moving the sealing iron in small circular motions preventing any air bubbles when applying monokote over monokote.
Can not get your link to .com to work. Love your videos and want a tee shirt.
On my channel banner you will also see at the bottom right the link tabs to my Facebook group and my Merch store.
Or type www.bayonasrcworld.com
is there a ( huge ) trade off at wallnut scale ( 20 inchish ) to use mono in stead of tissue ? realy like your teaching style keep doing wut you do i have subscibed and am hungery for more Technik !
I was gonna ask what is that you have wrapped around your iron, is that a
piece of a cotton T shirt?
Yes a old cotton shirt. I do this when I either run out of actual sealing iron sock or forgot to order. Either way a t-shirt works great
Thanks a lot, I appreciate it. Gonna do the same thing now. I was getting some scuffs, now I will do the cotton T shirt wrap. @@BayonasRCWorld
You didn’t show how you iron down the flat sides. That is how to get the monocote to adhere to the wood. At what temperature? Otherwise a good demo.
I have other monokote videos that should cover that if not then I definitely will cover that on my next monokoting job
I know this is a old video but can you paint on monocoat?
Yes you can. You just have to prep the surface, sand to remove any glossy shine, clean and then primer/paint amd seal with a top coat.
@@BayonasRCWorld thank you..
What type glue works,??
All depends what you are trying to assemble or glue together. CA glues have been the main adhesive for decades Thin, medium and thick viscosity are available. Or if CA is not what you like then Titebond wood glue is another tried and true adhesive that we use. These adhesives are used for balsa wood model construction, lite ply etc.. however if you are gluing a major stress area like dihedral brace, horizontal stab and vertical fin to fuselage then we use 30 min epoxy for such areas to include the firewall or engine/motor bay. I hope this answers your question.
Where do you even buy an iron these days? Do they cost $50?
Boy that is a good question for today market. Ebay is the only place that has sealing irons for sale "Used". For some reason these sellers are out of their minds selling $99 for a used iron. These sealing iron were no more than $30.00 new sold in hobby shops and online suppliers during its heyday. You probably could find irons at local hobby shops or a Hobby Town near you if any.
@@BayonasRCWorld thanks... I came to a similar conclusion... What a crazy world we live in now... Maybe even a modern travel iron might make sense again like in the 70's! Perhaps a cottage industry opportunity...
Windex*
Oh yeah! I knew what you were trying to say my friend.
You can set your sealing iron to 275 deg F or 135 deg C for starters if you have a thermometer. Hope this helps if you are trying to go this route! Also remember if using a sock, cloth etc on the iron the temps will also need to be alittle higher.
you can't even obtain the irons anymore.
You can still find them to be honest. Here is one place out of many.
www.hobbytown.com/sealing-irons-heat-guns-tools-maintenance-boats/c6431
@@BayonasRCWorld 🤣. Funny story. I placed an order for one because it said a local hobbytown has one in stock. I stopped in there after work and they said they havent had a iron in stock since 2021. The owner who was there working was kind of freaked out its missing but shows in stock. Horizon hobby discontinued them. Another reason a monopoly like them is bad for the hobby. I found an iron locally at a wood craft store. They have some online but they're $70. I got mine on sale for $56.
That's just crazy!
Windex method IS the best
I have done the windex method on my Dynaflite Super Decathlon Covering work.
Excellent video, thanks for the tips!
Thank you for watching and glad the video helped