Hey Chris! I just found your channel, awesome work. Your tutorial on how to do the refinishing is perfect. Tons of great info that I have been unable to find until now. Subscribed! Question about the panel lines though, how would you cut panel lines back into the model? I am thinking before your poly coating using a razor / exacto knife to go over the panel lines, but keeping them a much finer cut line? Your thought please.
+Flying with Mojo Thanks! The way I would approach the panel lines would be to draw them on with a pencil just before applying the final clear coat. You may even be able to scribe them using a double ended scribe (amzn.to/1OfPek0), but you would only want to scribe through the paint down to the primer (not through the poly). With the pencil, I recommend a mechanical pencil with a soft-ish lead so you don't have to press too hard to transfer the line. If you do want to do panel lines before the polycrylic, I would recommend using a riffler file (amzn.to/1JMSsUi) to cut smaller panel lines back into the filled panel lines. This will give you a much smaller and controlled line. I use these when adding panel lines to fuselage masters for fiberglass molding.
I actually never weighed. I’ve done a bunch of refinishes like this and have found that they all tend to fly better and truer following a refinish like this. So I actually don’t worry about the weight too much.
Yep, you definitely can! Although, the filler used in this vid is no longer made. This is the filler I’ve been using since then. It’s good stuff! www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/shrink-free-spackling
Awesome Video that is very informative. About the DAP spackling that you didn't have any luck with, do you remember how long it was before you started to sand it??? The reason I am asking is that is the stuff I have been using, well it and Shurman Williams Spackle and I have never had a problem? Maybe they changed the formula or something??? Just me thinking out loud. Anyway thanks for a friggin awesome video! 🤙🏼
I’ve switched over to the sherwinn williams shrink free spackle and it’s great! The dap stuff would just ball up under the sand paper no matter how long you let it dry, so it got tossed never to be sought after again. 🤣
@@Thercgeek most of the time I let it sit over night. I need to actually test that. I have made some forward slats for a Carbon Cub S2 and I need to do a little bit of work to smooth them out so I will check and see how long it takes the DAP to dry. I will report back on that
+Darren Pearce Thanks! Microballoons are micro spheres that are used specifically as a thickening agent for epoxy. It gives it more body so it's not as thin which is helpful when you're gluing certain areas where you need the epoxy to more or less stay put as it cures. IT also adds volume which makes the epoxy a little lighter as well. This is the stuff: amzn.to/1WmZmJ1
Hello great video! Will there be any issue with the hinge points being stiffer with sealer primer and paint and putting stress on original servo's? I used Minwax to poly my T-28 and the elevator seem to be very stiff even after I worked it up and down many times.
Thanks! If the poly got into the hinges, it can tighten them up. You’ll want to get some oil in there and that should help loosen them up. If it’s a foam hinge, then will take a few cycles on the surface. It’s good to double check the servos aren’t struggling heavily.
I didnt know of polycrlic sealer varnish, ...until now...so i repaied the airframe wings with, grp micro beads and pva glue, mied, forms a smooth filler, ....filled the airframe and wings, ....then....sanded, then, covered with tissue paper ...glued on with watered pva glue......then sanded, then, ...sanding sealer on, then light sanded, ....then :) ....sprayed with ..acrylic ..rattle can filler yellow primer, sanded smooth, as abase coat, then a rattle can of chrome ...diy...shop paint :) the pva and the sanding sealer helped to protect the foam, and the tissue has helped add protection and strength. .....i decided to add rudder control to the p-38 as well...as out the box..didnt have any, and running two engines, on a single Esc Bec, when the Li po 4s starts to die ...the bec starts too shut off the engines...and both being fed from one esc....one usaly shuts down, ....and being a twin hard to control with out a rudder option...so i added a addtinal mini servo.....with push rod to one tail and a cross rod to the other under neath, ...i got rid of the aileron...servos....and fitted a snake (nylon in ptfe tube...direct...meter long rod, with clevises fitted on the end ..glued on with resin glue and crimped slightly.......got rid of the wing weights ....sigh took alot work, to get the finish ...after the ...model shop..advice...nearly ..deaded it :/ .... Wish i saw your videos here ....before!..ha....nice work RC geek :)..lucky you got a decal printer. on with my corsair build now. And the spit mark xxv re skining ....models take up so much time sigh.....thinking of making my own retract kit...as the ones for sale so so expensive......
+edwin kania Thanks, good eye! It was a kit I was working on for my folks...that I still haven't finished (the kit that is). The airplane was a fun flyer until I smacked it on a landing. It's waiting its turn to get fixed. ;)
When you applied the polycrylic. Did you apply it down in the hinges of the control surfaces ? If so, did you have to work the hinges loose after drying (before or after painting) ? If not, how did you protect the hinges from the spray paint ?
+blkstang9964 This airplane has a foam hinge, so I simply polycrylic'd over all of it and it wasn't an issue. The poly will gum up traditional hinge points, so if the airplane you're working on has those, avoid getting the poly in them. taping them off should work. Otherwise, painting the hinges shouldn't be a problem.
If painting near a hinge point or other hinge with a pin/rivet holding it together, apply Vaseline carefully to the hinge to keep the paint out of it. You can apply it with a very small paintbrush to get it exactly where you want.
Thank you! I haven’t had problems with the filler like that at all. Unfortunately, the hobbylite stuff isn’t made anymore so I’ve been using sherwinn Williams shrink free spackle.
@@Thercgeek cool, I'm currently building a mold for a 40 size p51 cowl, once I'm finished, I may jump back onto the old school Stryker bash! thanks again.
its a bit expencive but apply 3/4 oz glass with a foam roller and finishing epoxy resin you can probably use a bit heavier fiberglass if your going to sand it youl be beter off. as for filling panel lines uou could use epoxy resin and filler. next it gets expencive but the outcome is awesome and worth it. airbrush a mist of house of Kollor (coast airbrush) adhesion promoter then a tack coat of kosmic clrear show car 2 part urethane. or probably just a urethane primer would do. i like the clear coat. then wet sand it. for a metallic finish use orion fine metallic silver also from house of kollor then if you wan you could clear coat that but its not necessary . I did it to a custom job o a umx carbon cub now im afraid to fly it lol. I tried sandable primer froma ratle can and it seemed to eat through the glas but it was just a thin ayer of 3/4 oz. . i also painted orion silver urethane directly over my e flite 1.2 meter p47 and it didnt seem to harm the foam i guess it was protected bu the original stock paint. just a warning... the orion silver will be very bright on a sunny day and cause glare issues. im thinking of leaving my p47 stock. just with it had a version with a girl on the nose instead of a tornado that looks like an angry mr hanky from southpark lol
Thanks! Removing the surfaces can certainly be done. I typically haven’t just in the interest of time. Cleaning up those intersections and adding some skirting or something would definitely improve those junctions around the model.
I didn’t sand between the polycrylic coats. Just a light sanding after the final coat before primer. I did sand between each of the primer coats as that’s what smooths out the surface.
@@Thercgeek Wow, thanks for responding so fast. I really like your craftsmanship and wish I could spend that much time on my planes but usually I am restoring them from rapid deceleration!
You don't have to, no. It all depends on what you're going for. The panel lines on the FLRC spit are better proportioned unlike the cavernous panel lines on the FMS P-51. I filled them in because they were huge and I wanted to smooth out the airplane figuring I could add back panel lines if I wanted to with a pencil or something like that.
The RC Geek Thanks, but what gives it the smooth finish, like which coat removes the foam texture, sorry as this is my first time actually going the extra mile of repainting the whole thing.
Well, the filler fills in all of the panel lines and the large voids. The polycrylic seals up everything else and will help smooth it out (depending on how many coats). IT also stiffens up the airframe too which is nice. The primer prep is where the rest of it gets smoothed out. It takes a couple coats of priming, sanding, and priming to get a good finish.
So im refinishing my e-flite f-15 64mm jet to look like one thats from NASA, and was wondering if I should rip out the elevators and rudders that are glued in for this process. I feel like that may ruin the plane and I'm looking for some guidance. Thanks.
Hi, those flexible soft ish sanding sponges work good too follow airframes..there a oblong. diy store availbe...come in packs of 6 too 8 , they have diffrent grades....also...
Great video! I was wondering if you can skip the entire paint removing process with acetone, and go directly covering the airplane with balsa filler and then sanding all surfaces with 180 paper. Have you tried it this way? You think it would work? Take care.
Thanks! Yes, you can proceed that way and that’s how I’ve been doing refinished more recently. That’s what I did with my latest refinish project here: ruclips.net/video/nQX9aXoNeVI/видео.html
@@Thercgeek I am thinking of using latex paint with my airbrush with your system instead of Tamiya cans. That is what I use with my fiberglass airplanes. You either get it mixed to certain color in HD, or you can mix it yourself from the acrylic paint you buy from Michaels. Both are chep and rewarding solutions. Then I spray the entire plane with water-based clear polycryilic in matte, satin or gloss depending on the plane instead of lacquer. It works :-))
Thanks! I had intended to weigh the airplane before I started and forgot to. :( So, I don't know exactly the difference in the weight. That said, the weight difference isn't huge. Also, these foam warbirds I've found fly better with a little more weight behind them as they'll penetrate through the air better. Otherwise, they can be too floaty having too light of a wing loading.
Thanks for the quick reply. I purchased some of the products that you used and I am going to give it a go on the vertical stabilizer on one of my plane and see how that turns out.
Hey, I do have a question. You used automotive primer, any specific type? I found some self etching around the house, but I don't even know what that means. Any direction would be appreciated.
I used the polycrylic on my new horizon hobbies V900 and it seems to be stiffer and I don't seem to worry about the decals or the paint and it feels great.It might even exceed 120mph.
Hello friend, I loved your work but the translation failed me. How many times did you apply the water-based varnish? (Mainwax) I would really appreciate if you could tell me, since I have 3 EPO planes that I want to fix with the technique that you taught. Greetings and hugs from Mexico.
I’m a beginner/intermediate in the hobby And I’m looking to do this to my Eflite P-47 Razorback, but I like the panel lines on it. I’m just looking to make the foam a little more sturdy since foam warbirds dent so easily. If I use acetone to take the paint off, then use the 6 coats of miniwax before applying primer and paint, would that still give me a good result? Or will the mini wax fill in the panel lines?
I would recommend simply just applying minwax over the stock paint and not worry about any filling. The minwax does stiffen up the airframe and give it a nice shell, but it will still ding if impacted. So just keep that in mind.
Yes sir I’ll be sure to keep that in mind. I’m just looking for something that’ll stiffen it up so it won’t dent from my fingers when I pick it up. Thank you!
I'm considering this same process, but with using Beacon Adhesive Foam Finish for filling in the panel lines instead of the HobbyLite. Do you think that would work also?
I've never used the Beacon foam finish, so I can't really say. From what I can tell it would be more of a replacement for the polycrylic, no? Is it a resin or is it more of a filler? Or more of a combination of the two? I'd say try it on a small surface first like the tails and see how it does and then decide from there based on the results.
Curious why you didn't fiberglass with the polycrylic? Does it add too much weight? I'm certain it would have add more strength. I wanted to fiberglass a P-47 foamie and am looking at techniques.
It’s less work to just use the poly to harden up the airframe. It’s not as hard, but it works. Also, polycrylic isn’t a great medium for glass. You’d want to use an epoxy resin if going that direction. The thing is, even glassing won’t stop the gatoring that you can get with epo in the son, so I reserve that amount of work for more robust models truthfully.
@@Thercgeek I've seen both epoxy and the polycrylic used and I agree that they say the polycrylic is less strong and cures not as hard as the epoxy. I have a plane waiting for Z-poxy and 3/4 oz glass at the moment (balsa plane not packing material plane)
Just ran into this one. I have to agree on the rigidity point but I also know that foam doesn't do well with epoxy. The only way I know it could be done is apply five coats of flat paint to it. Can't remember the type of paint. But the reason is because of the heat generated by the epoxy during the curing process. Then you would have to apply the fiberglass (normally five application of epoxy with two layers of fiberglass) followed by two primer coat then whatever you are going to use to paint it with. That's allot of coats and well, allot of added weight. I generally hate foam but I have been thinking about get back in after 30 years. What am thinking about is two different types of planes. One is gliders and the other, I don't know what you call it. It's a multi-engine cargo looking plane. Mostly its to mess about and use on board cameras for surveying. Not really likely that I will get into that part time but mostly to scout around the general area. Now, the FAA has inserted its nose where it doesn't belong yet again and is making that a bit on the hard side. Came out I think last September. Seems someone is worried about drone attacks on the DC. Not the platform I would use for that if I remotely had that desire; ex military. There are far better ways which I will not discuss. Back on topic. What am looking for is something that will work in this manner. Of course I have been out of RC for 30 years and stopped flying myself 20 years ago. Got anything on this mate? I will comb what you have up in a bit.
Hi just watched these 3 videos an subscribe to your channel. Got a question I'm reworking my p 51D mustang an I've already used the minwax polyurethane on it. So I'm looking to see what kinda paint you could suggest ? Or if I could use the 2X's Rust-Oleum spray paint on it ?......
Thanks for the sub! 😊. Sure, you can use the 2x rustoleum on it. I’ve used all sorts of paint mediums on epo foam with no issues at all. Especially after the poly coats.
@@Thercgeek Ok great thanks, I was really amazed on your work on your P-51 Mustang your video was exactly what I have been searching for on here showing everything that needed to be done. Hardly ever see any videos on these 51's. Thank you for sharing an your information. I can't wait to see how mine turns out.
@@Thercgeek No doubt I'll make a video when completed I had also found another video that was helpful by useing Epoxy an just a little 91% alcohol to lubricate it an brush it on the nose of the fuselage so if it hit the ground it wouldn't break. Think it was called glassing. Then I'ma paint it and detail it.
Right. My understanding is that the hobbylite fillers are no longer available. I’ve moved over to using Sherwin-Williams shrink free spackle. It’s pretty good stuff has a finer/smoother granularity to it.
Eps foams sand pretty well. Epo foam which most foam arfs are these days doesn’t really sand at all and then whiskers. So, you can use a light grit on epo, but avoid breaking through the skin to avoid it whiskering.
hi Rc geek, I am currently converting a durafly seafire to a mk xii spitfire.Ive ordered the 4 bladed prop and spinner off of the flightline mk IX spitfire. As i am making a mkxii it needs clipped wings,would you suggest cutting the end of wing off then sanding a smooth round edge? And as for paint for a ETO scheme spit with the grey ,green and light grey over the dark blue scheme would you recommend sanding all the paint off as i do not have acetone? all help appreciated, Fred
Hi Fred, In terms of the refinish, I’d simply do all of the prep work over the stock paint. Don’t worry about stripping it off. Just lightly sand it and do the prep work from there. For the wing tip, I would recommend cutting it square off and then glueing a light balsawood block at the tip of the correct width and carving and sanding it to shape. Epo foam doesn’t sand very well, so this will be an easier prospect.
I unfortunately forgot to weigh the airplane before I started, but honestly the weight increase isn't huge. These foam warbirds tend to track a little truer with little more wing loading to them.
I just got done refinishing my 1.2 meter p47. i did it somewhat different using thin laminating epoxy a thin layer of laquer primer and a thin layer of metalic silver but when it came time to re balance the aircraft it required over 4 oz to balance it have you had that issue ? it seems a slight bit of weight ovet the tail section translates to a lot of weight in the nose required to re balance. it looks like the p51 has a longer nose
With that airplane, it' not too surprising. The nose is pretty short on a P-47, plus on 3 cells the airplane needs nose weight normally anyhow. On a 4s 3200-3600, it doesn't need any nose weight.
you think itl fly ok with a 3s 2200and 6oz max lead weight in the nose? im trying to loose some extra tail weight. i dont need a smooth finish under the horizontal stab
I flew mine with a 3s 3200 and needed about 3-4 oz lead in the nose. It should be ok. The other option is to get some functional nose weight going and fly with some larger capacity packs.
that sounds good to me.i spent last night and this afternoon sanding off all excecive primer almost back down to foam I want to try tamaya silver. i painted it under the wing and to tel the truth there really isnt that much difference. plus on one note itf you do achieve a realistic polished aluminum finish it will look great sitting on the flight line (im a NAVY guy). but when your flying it under a bright sun it could be hard to see what your doing with glare
Silver is one of the worst colors to see in the air. If you want a nice and realistic silver finish, take a look at the ALCLAD II paints. They're plastic model paints (airbrush only) and create a very convincing finish.
I love the stuff. My dad mentioned another filler that he's been using that he likes a lot which is a little smoother even. I plan to give it a try when I get a chance.
perfection, lnowledge able you lucky too find out and took time to find coverable materials.....such hard work to work on foam aeroplanes. i went to a model shop the owner told me to use certain paints....like idiot i listened, did as he said :( result melted plane :(
just white standard styrofoam...either xps or eps i guess..? ...there are quite a few.....xps eps, ....then epp and epe which are classed as EPOs.....there more flexible and with stand Aeroplane crashes better...i read somewhere.. .mmm epp and epe are blue in colour ...but are soft too touch ...you can sqweeze them and they return to the shape once formed....i think........ which make of foam i have is im unsure ...of the xpx or eps ...solid foam bubble white variety.... just for interest: i found this info on foams. today..if its any help too everyone......there are......mied foams also...which are mixed together ..to give better property's...bit mind boggling..... need to use special styrofoam glues for model aircraft.....cant rember its name sorry...i have run out ....will try to update....for all people who are....starting of new too foamy aircraft kits.......its a hard subject i have found too get straight clear answers too, ....alot of errors in builds can be done....so need to be careful...as facepalm i found out ha...;) styrofoam...white bigger bubbles ...heading for aeroplane model foams... polyurethanes..(flexible foams...used for packaging...the soft foam pads in boxes.) Poluethylene...soft flexible foam again,,..for package (the flat foam pads again... the more people add there info the better for us all :).....take ya time and do your research.........such a nice finish on that p-51 mr chriss....wish i was as good ...:/ ha oh well.
I lightly sanded the final polycrylic coat before applying primer. It doesn't sand great, so it was just to knock down any peaks that may have occured in the process.
Yeah, that's no problem. I'd recommend using the spray poly if you do as well as the appropriate sheen you're looking for too. For military airplanes, flat is usually what you want to go with.
unless i shove a 4s in the nose theres an oppening my guess for airflow . witha liitle modification i could make itwork, plus bring the two servos all the way forward even though there just 9 grams
I've been toying with the idea of fiberglassing an entire plane, cut the fiberglass from the foam fuselage ending up with fiberglass halves. Make necessary bulkheads and reassemble. I wish manufacturers would omit the overstated panel lines and instead come up with a smooth skin over the foam.
The newer airplanes from Freewing and FlightLine RC coming out are better on the panel lines. Not nearly as big. I know a few folks who have glassed over a foam plug to make a fiberglass fuselage from. It definitely works and is relatively quick for a one off model.
expensive old stuff, G.R.P (glass reinforced plastic) cloth, could just use P-40 grp chopped in resin strand mix..i guess.....boat yard Chandler shops are good source for materials with grp.......;) :), they have a good range of resins, microbeads, cloths, stipple brushes small rollers, ..you can modify, a car battery pump, to be a vacuum pump, with a valve fitted to control the amount of vac, ...can vac bag a repair or model making on a mold ..i guess.......just make a suction tube ..on the air entry into the battery car tyre pump.....it will suck all the air in...or am i being silly?
wait, 450mmm P-51?? No, 1400 v2 it looks like? Very informative series thank you, just some notes: I use a local wood filler which is water based and sands very well its better than 'spackle' as you American's call it. Also if you are experienced and careful there's no reason not to use a small sanding machine, on the bigger areas and hand sanding for the refined ares and curves - of importance is I noticed you never stripped the parts and electronic components and a=hardware, this is very unusual for me I've never seen professional refinishing where these parts were left in place, there's a million reason to remove them and only one reason not to. I use 100 and 1200 finishing paper wet to get the smooth finish then polycrylic isn't necessary - just a good primer. By "Backlash" I assume you mean 'slop' in the pushrod lines?
Yup, there’s no one way to do this stuff. The best process is the one that gives you the results you’re looking for. At the time this was labeled as a 1450mm airframe, hence why I stated 1450. Backlash is more of an engineering term but yeah, is essentially the slop that existed from the loose pushrod. The loose pushrod resulted in inconsistent movement and double centering which was no good.
@@Thercgeek And your results speak for themselves...as per my comment on the next video. Very nice finish, Im going to try your way next on my PC-2. Sorry I heard 450 not 1450. I had the Blue Nose Petiell 1400 P-51 V2 from FMS - I loved it
I was pretty happy with the material I used. I’ve been using the shrink free spackle from sherwinn Williams of late and it’s really good too. I’ll look into the latex stuff.
Yes and no. You can rough it up to prep it for paint, but it's hard to sand if you're doing much more than that. So, when applying it it's important to avoid drips and things like that as those don't sand out that well. The whole point of the poly is to seal up the airframe to give you a hardened surface to apply primer over. The prime/sand/prime process is what really smooths out a finish.
not sure whats going on but i took the tail fins down almost to bare foam and therest of the fuselage hasa scant amount of epoxy and primer. unless there was a balast weight in the nose when the plane was stock and the weight flew out when i had my crash then im stumped it looks like 6 oz of weight in the nose cowl will be needed to balance the airplane.
i barely made balance just pushing the 3s all the way forward... when is somebody going to come out with a fiberglass fuselage and wing lol the 5 oz extra weight itl probably fly fine i just weighed the plane with a 3s in it and a lighter 2 bade 11 inch and its around 58 oz I do have a radian thats way over weight and an epoxy and two part clear coated umx carbon cub that is way over and flies fine
yeah, I don't think a little extra weigh is going to hurt. On my FMS T-28, I found that the airplane actually flew better with a little extra weight (I flew the airplane with a 5000 pack).
@@Thercgeek what steps would I take if I am planning to repaint a balsa airframe? I have the hanger 9 P-51D Mustang that was in an accident and I want to repaint it to silver. Going for the Tuskegee Airman scheme. I couldn’t find anyone on RUclips about it and I checked your website and couldn’t find anything relating to balsa
Ah, ok got it. Sounds like a fun project! For something like that, I'd personally end up fiberglassing the airframe and going that route. It's the most permanent finish you can get, but is a bit of work to do. It's my plan to show fiberglassing in the future as I have a number of projects that require it. Just haven't been able to get to those projects yet. I will have more time in the fall though.
I haven’t been fond of any of the DAP stuff in all honesty. I found sherwinn Williams shrink free spackle though which is really nice stuff! That’s what I’ve been using primarily these days.
I took advantage of my situation and heavily glassed the front of the cowl and painted it with white laquer base it looks sweet but i will be lightly sanding that and using a mist of Orion fine silver from house of kolor and painting the front of the cowl red for wild bette with fearless dick on the right side or dark blue or black? if i decide to keep it Kansas tornado. the extra resin and filler will act as weight. i am still thinking f i want to do a mod so I can use the opening in the nose for the battery but i dont think itl be necessary. if you want to see pics go to rc groups p47 1.2 meter im flying ferret.. because it sounds funny
For light weight sandable spackle I really like Sherwin Williams light weight non shrinking spackle. I think you used that on the fF-14?
Yep! That’s my go to now for spackle.
Hey Chris! I just found your channel, awesome work. Your tutorial on how to do the refinishing is perfect. Tons of great info that I have been unable to find until now. Subscribed! Question about the panel lines though, how would you cut panel lines back into the model? I am thinking before your poly coating using a razor / exacto knife to go over the panel lines, but keeping them a much finer cut line? Your thought please.
+Flying with Mojo Thanks! The way I would approach the panel lines would be to draw them on with a pencil just before applying the final clear coat. You may even be able to scribe them using a double ended scribe (amzn.to/1OfPek0), but you would only want to scribe through the paint down to the primer (not through the poly). With the pencil, I recommend a mechanical pencil with a soft-ish lead so you don't have to press too hard to transfer the line. If you do want to do panel lines before the polycrylic, I would recommend using a riffler file (amzn.to/1JMSsUi) to cut smaller panel lines back into the filled panel lines. This will give you a much smaller and controlled line. I use these when adding panel lines to fuselage masters for fiberglass molding.
Very interesting. Did you record the weight of the model before and after the refinishing process? Cheers
I actually never weighed. I’ve done a bunch of refinishes like this and have found that they all tend to fly better and truer following a refinish like this. So I actually don’t worry about the weight too much.
@@Thercgeekreally!? Now is that with keeping the stock motor? I remember trying to airbrush an old park one extra and it never flew right afterwards
I looked up the filler and they have white as well as the balsa colored you used. Awesome video.
Thank so much for watching!
Great video! Could I use the filler to help fill in foam dents on leading edges of wings and stuff from hanger rash?
Yep, you definitely can! Although, the filler used in this vid is no longer made. This is the filler I’ve been using since then. It’s good stuff! www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/shrink-free-spackling
@@Thercgeek awesome! Thank you!
Great information my friend. THX. I'm following your procedure of finishing on my next 2 planes. a Cessna 310 and an Icon A5. Greetz. Yvan
Awesome Video that is very informative. About the DAP spackling that you didn't have any luck with, do you remember how long it was before you started to sand it???
The reason I am asking is that is the stuff I have been using, well it and Shurman Williams Spackle and I have never had a problem?
Maybe they changed the formula or something??? Just me thinking out loud.
Anyway thanks for a friggin awesome video! 🤙🏼
I’ve switched over to the sherwinn williams shrink free spackle and it’s great! The dap stuff would just ball up under the sand paper no matter how long you let it dry, so it got tossed never to be sought after again. 🤣
@@Thercgeek most of the time I let it sit over night. I need to actually test that. I have made some forward slats for a Carbon Cub S2 and I need to do a little bit of work to smooth them out so I will check and see how long it takes the DAP to dry. I will report back on that
Great Video, very informative. You mentioned a modification for the push rods using 5min epoxy and microballoons. What is a microballoon?
+Darren Pearce Thanks! Microballoons are micro spheres that are used specifically as a thickening agent for epoxy. It gives it more body so it's not as thin which is helpful when you're gluing certain areas where you need the epoxy to more or less stay put as it cures. IT also adds volume which makes the epoxy a little lighter as well. This is the stuff: amzn.to/1WmZmJ1
Thanks Chris.
Hey Chris! Whats that orange and white jet hanging up @1:45 ? It looks very familiar
That’s a model called the electrolyte that a friend of mine designed. Fast and clean little micro jet that was impossible to see in the air. 😆
Great video Chris!
+Tony Accurso Thanks Tony! :)
Hello great video! Will there be any issue with the hinge points being stiffer with sealer primer and paint and putting stress on original servo's? I used Minwax to poly my T-28 and the elevator seem to be very stiff even after I worked it up and down many times.
Thanks! If the poly got into the hinges, it can tighten them up. You’ll want to get some oil in there and that should help loosen them up. If it’s a foam hinge, then will take a few cycles on the surface. It’s good to double check the servos aren’t struggling heavily.
I didnt know of polycrlic sealer varnish, ...until now...so i repaied the airframe wings with, grp micro beads and pva glue, mied, forms a smooth filler, ....filled the airframe and wings, ....then....sanded, then, covered with tissue paper ...glued on with watered pva glue......then sanded, then, ...sanding sealer on, then light sanded, ....then :) ....sprayed with ..acrylic ..rattle can filler yellow primer, sanded smooth, as abase coat, then a rattle can of chrome ...diy...shop paint :) the pva and the sanding sealer helped to protect the foam, and the tissue has helped add protection and strength.
.....i decided to add rudder control to the p-38 as well...as out the box..didnt have any, and running two engines, on a single Esc Bec, when the Li po 4s starts to die ...the bec starts too shut off the engines...and both being fed from one esc....one usaly shuts down, ....and being a twin hard to control with out a rudder option...so i added a addtinal mini servo.....with push rod to one tail and a cross rod to the other under neath,
...i got rid of the aileron...servos....and fitted a snake (nylon in ptfe tube...direct...meter long rod, with clevises fitted on the end ..glued on with resin glue and crimped slightly.......got rid of the wing weights ....sigh took alot work, to get the finish ...after the ...model shop..advice...nearly ..deaded it :/ ....
Wish i saw your videos here ....before!..ha....nice work RC geek :)..lucky you got a decal printer. on with my corsair build now.
And the spit mark xxv re skining ....models take up so much time sigh.....thinking of making my own retract kit...as the ones for sale so so expensive......
Nice F-100 in the corner of the garage just to the left of the garage door. I saw it in the last video.
EK~
+edwin kania Thanks, good eye! It was a kit I was working on for my folks...that I still haven't finished (the kit that is). The airplane was a fun flyer until I smacked it on a landing. It's waiting its turn to get fixed. ;)
When you applied the polycrylic. Did you apply it down in the hinges of the control surfaces ? If so, did you have to work the hinges loose after drying (before or after painting) ? If not, how did you protect the hinges from the spray paint ?
+blkstang9964 This airplane has a foam hinge, so I simply polycrylic'd over all of it and it wasn't an issue. The poly will gum up traditional hinge points, so if the airplane you're working on has those, avoid getting the poly in them. taping them off should work. Otherwise, painting the hinges shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks, awesome information in these videos.
+blkstang9964 Thanks, I'm glad you've found them helpful!
If painting near a hinge point or other hinge with a pin/rivet holding it together, apply Vaseline carefully to the hinge to keep the paint out of it. You can apply it with a very small paintbrush to get it exactly where you want.
Nice video. Very informative!
+Simon Wallace Thank you!
Gr8 channel just found it. Do you have any long term issues with the hobbyco filler popping out of repairs and panel lines?
Thank you! I haven’t had problems with the filler like that at all. Unfortunately, the hobbylite stuff isn’t made anymore so I’ve been using sherwinn Williams shrink free spackle.
@@Thercgeek and how does that compare to the hobbylite?
I like it. It’s been the best replacement for it I’ve found.
@@Thercgeek cool, I'm currently building a mold for a 40 size p51 cowl, once I'm finished, I may jump back onto the old school Stryker bash!
thanks again.
its a bit expencive but apply 3/4 oz glass with a foam roller and finishing epoxy resin you can probably use a bit heavier fiberglass if your going to sand it youl be beter off. as for filling panel lines uou could use epoxy resin and filler. next it gets expencive but the outcome is awesome and worth it. airbrush a mist of house of Kollor (coast airbrush) adhesion promoter then a tack coat of kosmic clrear show car 2 part urethane. or probably just a urethane primer would do. i like the clear coat. then wet sand it. for a metallic finish use orion fine metallic silver also from house of kollor then if you wan you could clear coat that but its not necessary . I did it to a custom job o a umx carbon cub now im afraid to fly it lol. I tried sandable primer froma ratle can and it seemed to eat through the glas but it was just a thin ayer of 3/4 oz. . i also painted orion silver urethane directly over my e flite 1.2 meter p47 and it didnt seem to harm the foam i guess it was protected bu the original stock paint.
just a warning... the orion silver will be very bright on a sunny day and cause glare issues. im thinking of leaving my p47 stock. just with it had a version with a girl on the nose instead of a tornado that looks like an angry mr hanky from southpark lol
greta videos, just one question, why didn't you remove the Rudder, airlons ect. would have thought it would have been a better finish. Tom
Thanks! Removing the surfaces can certainly be done. I typically haven’t just in the interest of time. Cleaning up those intersections and adding some skirting or something would definitely improve those junctions around the model.
Thanks for the very well done videos, but I didn’t understand whether you were sanding between coats or not
I didn’t sand between the polycrylic coats. Just a light sanding after the final coat before primer. I did sand between each of the primer coats as that’s what smooths out the surface.
@@Thercgeek Wow, thanks for responding so fast. I really like your craftsmanship and wish I could spend that much time on my planes but usually I am restoring them from rapid deceleration!
Hi Chris! Impressive work, I'm working on my flightline spit and I only want to achieve a smooth paint finish, do I need to apply the filler?
You don't have to, no. It all depends on what you're going for. The panel lines on the FLRC spit are better proportioned unlike the cavernous panel lines on the FMS P-51. I filled them in because they were huge and I wanted to smooth out the airplane figuring I could add back panel lines if I wanted to with a pencil or something like that.
The RC Geek Thanks, but what gives it the smooth finish, like which coat removes the foam texture, sorry as this is my first time actually going the extra mile of repainting the whole thing.
Well, the filler fills in all of the panel lines and the large voids. The polycrylic seals up everything else and will help smooth it out (depending on how many coats). IT also stiffens up the airframe too which is nice. The primer prep is where the rest of it gets smoothed out. It takes a couple coats of priming, sanding, and priming to get a good finish.
So im refinishing my e-flite f-15 64mm jet to look like one thats from NASA, and was wondering if I should rip out the elevators and rudders that are glued in for this process. I feel like that may ruin the plane and I'm looking for some guidance. Thanks.
Nope, just do whatever prep you’re going to do with it all together.
Hi Chris. Does the minwax affect the foam hinges at all ( foam or plastic hinges) ? Cheers 👍
It can gum them up if you get excess into the hinge pins. So, you want to be careful around those areas.
Hi, those flexible soft ish sanding sponges work good too follow airframes..there a oblong. diy store availbe...come in packs of 6 too 8 , they have diffrent grades....also...
Great video! I was wondering if you can skip the entire paint removing process with acetone, and go directly covering the airplane with balsa filler and then sanding all surfaces with 180 paper. Have you tried it this way? You think it would work? Take care.
Thanks! Yes, you can proceed that way and that’s how I’ve been doing refinished more recently. That’s what I did with my latest refinish project here: ruclips.net/video/nQX9aXoNeVI/видео.html
@@Thercgeek I am thinking of using latex paint with my airbrush with your system instead of Tamiya cans. That is what I use with my fiberglass airplanes. You either get it mixed to certain color in HD, or you can mix it yourself from the acrylic paint you buy from Michaels. Both are chep and rewarding solutions. Then I spray the entire plane with water-based clear polycryilic in matte, satin or gloss depending on the plane instead of lacquer. It works :-))
That all sounds like it should work well! I haven’t used latex personally, but I know folks who have. How do you thin it out of curiosity?
@@Thercgeek Windshield cleaner (blue stuff) or dilute alcohol.
Cool
Great video, very informative! How much weight did all of this add to the plane?
Thanks! I had intended to weigh the airplane before I started and forgot to. :( So, I don't know exactly the difference in the weight. That said, the weight difference isn't huge. Also, these foam warbirds I've found fly better with a little more weight behind them as they'll penetrate through the air better. Otherwise, they can be too floaty having too light of a wing loading.
Thanks for the quick reply. I purchased some of the products that you used and I am going to give it a go on the vertical stabilizer on one of my plane and see how that turns out.
Cool! let me know if you have any questions in the process.
Hey, I do have a question. You used automotive primer, any specific type? I found some self etching around the house, but I don't even know what that means. Any direction would be appreciated.
I used the polycrylic on my new horizon hobbies V900 and it seems to be stiffer and I don't seem to worry about the decals or the paint and it feels great.It might even exceed 120mph.
Yeah, the poly does help in stiffening up the airframes. It’s definitely a benefit of using it. 😊
Hello friend, I loved your work but the translation failed me. How many times did you apply the water-based varnish? (Mainwax) I would really appreciate if you could tell me, since I have 3 EPO planes that I want to fix with the technique that you taught. Greetings and hugs from Mexico.
On this project, I used 6 coats of minwax polycrylic.
@@Thercgeek Ok friend I really appreciate your answer and your videos are very interesting. Greetings and good luck.
Great video! subbed!
Thank you!
I’m a beginner/intermediate in the hobby And I’m looking to do this to my Eflite P-47 Razorback, but I like the panel lines on it. I’m just looking to make the foam a little more sturdy since foam warbirds dent so easily. If I use acetone to take the paint off, then use the 6 coats of miniwax before applying primer and paint, would that still give me a good result? Or will the mini wax fill in the panel lines?
I would recommend simply just applying minwax over the stock paint and not worry about any filling. The minwax does stiffen up the airframe and give it a nice shell, but it will still ding if impacted. So just keep that in mind.
Yes sir I’ll be sure to keep that in mind. I’m just looking for something that’ll stiffen it up so it won’t dent from my fingers when I pick it up. Thank you!
I'm considering this same process, but with using Beacon Adhesive Foam Finish for filling in the panel lines instead of the HobbyLite. Do you think that would work also?
I've never used the Beacon foam finish, so I can't really say. From what I can tell it would be more of a replacement for the polycrylic, no? Is it a resin or is it more of a filler? Or more of a combination of the two? I'd say try it on a small surface first like the tails and see how it does and then decide from there based on the results.
Curious why you didn't fiberglass with the polycrylic? Does it add too much weight? I'm certain it would have add more strength. I wanted to fiberglass a P-47 foamie and am looking at techniques.
It’s less work to just use the poly to harden up the airframe. It’s not as hard, but it works. Also, polycrylic isn’t a great medium for glass. You’d want to use an epoxy resin if going that direction. The thing is, even glassing won’t stop the gatoring that you can get with epo in the son, so I reserve that amount of work for more robust models truthfully.
@@Thercgeek I've seen both epoxy and the polycrylic used and I agree that they say the polycrylic is less strong and cures not as hard as the epoxy. I have a plane waiting for Z-poxy and 3/4 oz glass at the moment (balsa plane not packing material plane)
Just ran into this one. I have to agree on the rigidity point but I also know that foam doesn't do well with epoxy. The only way I know it could be done is apply five coats of flat paint to it. Can't remember the type of paint. But the reason is because of the heat generated by the epoxy during the curing process. Then you would have to apply the fiberglass (normally five application of epoxy with two layers of fiberglass) followed by two primer coat then whatever you are going to use to paint it with. That's allot of coats and well, allot of added weight. I generally hate foam but I have been thinking about get back in after 30 years. What am thinking about is two different types of planes. One is gliders and the other, I don't know what you call it. It's a multi-engine cargo looking plane. Mostly its to mess about and use on board cameras for surveying. Not really likely that I will get into that part time but mostly to scout around the general area. Now, the FAA has inserted its nose where it doesn't belong yet again and is making that a bit on the hard side. Came out I think last September. Seems someone is worried about drone attacks on the DC. Not the platform I would use for that if I remotely had that desire; ex military. There are far better ways which I will not discuss.
Back on topic. What am looking for is something that will work in this manner. Of course I have been out of RC for 30 years and stopped flying myself 20 years ago. Got anything on this mate? I will comb what you have up in a bit.
Hi just watched these 3 videos an subscribe to your channel. Got a question I'm reworking my p 51D mustang an I've already used the minwax polyurethane on it. So I'm looking to see what kinda paint you could suggest ? Or if I could use the 2X's Rust-Oleum spray paint on it ?......
Thanks for the sub! 😊. Sure, you can use the 2x rustoleum on it. I’ve used all sorts of paint mediums on epo foam with no issues at all. Especially after the poly coats.
@@Thercgeek Ok great thanks, I was really amazed on your work on your P-51 Mustang your video was exactly what I have been searching for on here showing everything that needed to be done.
Hardly ever see any videos on these 51's. Thank you for sharing an your information. I can't wait to see how mine turns out.
Thanks, I'm glad that you found the tutorial helpful! I'd love to see pics of the finished airplane when it's done. :)
@@Thercgeek No doubt I'll make a video when completed I had also found another video that was helpful by useing Epoxy an just a little 91% alcohol to lubricate it an brush it on the nose of the fuselage so if it hit the ground it wouldn't break. Think it was called glassing. Then I'ma paint it and detail it.
Hobbylite makes a white foam and balsa filler - same product, but matches foam color
Right. My understanding is that the hobbylite fillers are no longer available. I’ve moved over to using Sherwin-Williams shrink free spackle. It’s pretty good stuff has a finer/smoother granularity to it.
Chris , how many jars of filler did you go through on this ?
I think I went through about only one to one and a half. I remember it wasn’t as much as I expected.
Can Styrofoam be sanded? With a very light grit?
Eps foams sand pretty well. Epo foam which most foam arfs are these days doesn’t really sand at all and then whiskers. So, you can use a light grit on epo, but avoid breaking through the skin to avoid it whiskering.
hi Rc geek,
I am currently converting a durafly seafire to a mk xii spitfire.Ive ordered the 4 bladed prop and spinner off of the flightline mk IX spitfire. As i am making a mkxii it needs clipped wings,would you suggest cutting the end of wing off then sanding a smooth round edge? And as for paint for a ETO scheme spit with the grey ,green and light grey over the dark blue scheme would you recommend sanding all the paint off as i do not have acetone?
all help appreciated,
Fred
Hi Fred, In terms of the refinish, I’d simply do all of the prep work over the stock paint. Don’t worry about stripping it off. Just lightly sand it and do the prep work from there. For the wing tip, I would recommend cutting it square off and then glueing a light balsawood block at the tip of the correct width and carving and sanding it to shape. Epo foam doesn’t sand very well, so this will be an easier prospect.
@@Thercgeek thanks i appreciate it
No problem! I’d love to see the final result when it’s done. 😊
@@Thercgeek sure thing!
Hi from the Uk, did this filling/ painting process add much weight?
I unfortunately forgot to weigh the airplane before I started, but honestly the weight increase isn't huge. These foam warbirds tend to track a little truer with little more wing loading to them.
The RC Geek Hi Chris, totally agree with you concerning wing loading......Irons out a lot of the floatiness.
I just got done refinishing my 1.2 meter p47. i did it somewhat different using thin laminating epoxy a thin layer of laquer primer and a thin layer of metalic silver but when it came time to re balance the aircraft it required over 4 oz to balance it have you had that issue ? it seems a slight bit of weight ovet the tail section translates to a lot of weight in the nose required to re balance. it looks like the p51 has a longer nose
With that airplane, it' not too surprising. The nose is pretty short on a P-47, plus on 3 cells the airplane needs nose weight normally anyhow. On a 4s 3200-3600, it doesn't need any nose weight.
you think itl fly ok with a 3s 2200and 6oz max lead weight in the nose? im trying to loose some extra tail weight. i dont need a smooth finish under the horizontal stab
I flew mine with a 3s 3200 and needed about 3-4 oz lead in the nose. It should be ok. The other option is to get some functional nose weight going and fly with some larger capacity packs.
that sounds good to me.i spent last night and this afternoon sanding off all excecive primer almost back down to foam I want to try tamaya silver. i painted it under the wing and to tel the truth there really isnt that much difference. plus on one note itf you do achieve a realistic polished aluminum finish it will look great sitting on the flight line (im a NAVY guy). but when your flying it under a bright sun it could be hard to see what your doing with glare
Silver is one of the worst colors to see in the air. If you want a nice and realistic silver finish, take a look at the ALCLAD II paints. They're plastic model paints (airbrush only) and create a very convincing finish.
Good idea usin basla dust filler, light and does the job :)
I love the stuff. My dad mentioned another filler that he's been using that he likes a lot which is a little smoother even. I plan to give it a try when I get a chance.
good job
+Felipe Garcia Thank you!
Great vid brother !!!
Thanks!
perfection, lnowledge able you lucky too find out and took time to find coverable materials.....such hard work to work on foam aeroplanes.
i went to a model shop the owner told me to use certain paints....like idiot i listened, did as he said :( result melted plane :(
oh no! What type of foam was it and what type of paint?
just white standard styrofoam...either xps or eps i guess..? ...there are quite a few.....xps eps, ....then epp and epe which are classed as EPOs.....there more flexible and with stand Aeroplane crashes better...i read somewhere..
.mmm epp and epe are blue in colour ...but are soft too touch ...you can sqweeze them and they return to the shape once formed....i think........ which make of foam i have is im unsure ...of the xpx or eps ...solid foam bubble white variety....
just for interest: i found this info on foams. today..if its any help too everyone......there are......mied foams also...which are mixed together ..to give better property's...bit mind boggling.....
need to use special styrofoam glues for model aircraft.....cant rember its name sorry...i have run out ....will try to update....for all people who are....starting of new too foamy aircraft kits.......its a hard subject i have found too get straight clear answers too, ....alot of errors in builds can be done....so need to be careful...as facepalm i found out ha...;)
styrofoam...white bigger bubbles ...heading for aeroplane model foams...
polyurethanes..(flexible foams...used for packaging...the soft foam
pads in boxes.)
Poluethylene...soft flexible foam again,,..for package (the flat foam pads again...
the more people add there info the better for us all :).....take ya time and do your research.........such a nice finish on that p-51 mr chriss....wish i was as good ...:/ ha oh well.
did you sand between polycrilic coats?
I lightly sanded the final polycrylic coat before applying primer. It doesn't sand great, so it was just to knock down any peaks that may have occured in the process.
Do you absolutly have to remove the paint before you can start filling?
Nope! Of late, I’ve just been lightly sanding the paint and then applying the refinish over that.
Thank you so much for the quick response. I can't wait to get my Tian Sheng C-17 refinished. Your video is awesome and very helpful. Thanks man!
How does the fms p-51 fly vs eflight?
It’s been a long time since I’ve flown this fms. In all honesty, the 1.2m eflite p51 is one of the best flying mustangs I’ve flown in recent years.
Can you put another coat of the minwax after the painting to?
Yeah, that's no problem. I'd recommend using the spray poly if you do as well as the appropriate sheen you're looking for too. For military airplanes, flat is usually what you want to go with.
Do you put the minwax on the plastic cowl to?
do u have to to fiberglass the foam
Not usually for an epo airframe. I just coated it with polycrylic to seal it and worked over that. Works great!
Thanks hobbico hobbylite worked out real well
it's good stuff!
unless i shove a 4s in the nose theres an oppening my guess for airflow . witha liitle modification i could make itwork, plus bring the two servos all the way forward even though there just 9 grams
I've been toying with the idea of fiberglassing an entire plane, cut the fiberglass from the foam fuselage ending up with fiberglass halves. Make necessary bulkheads and reassemble. I wish manufacturers would omit the overstated panel lines and instead come up with a smooth skin over the foam.
The newer airplanes from Freewing and FlightLine RC coming out are better on the panel lines. Not nearly as big. I know a few folks who have glassed over a foam plug to make a fiberglass fuselage from. It definitely works and is relatively quick for a one off model.
expensive old stuff, G.R.P (glass reinforced plastic) cloth, could just use P-40 grp chopped in resin strand mix..i guess.....boat yard Chandler shops are good source for materials with grp.......;) :), they have a good range of resins, microbeads, cloths, stipple brushes small rollers, ..you can modify, a car battery pump, to be a vacuum pump, with a valve fitted to control the amount of vac, ...can vac bag a repair or model making on a mold ..i guess.......just make a suction tube ..on the air entry into the battery car tyre pump.....it will suck all the air in...or am i being silly?
wait, 450mmm P-51?? No, 1400 v2 it looks like? Very informative series thank you, just some notes: I use a local wood filler which is water based and sands very well its better than 'spackle' as you American's call it. Also if you are experienced and careful there's no reason not to use a small sanding machine, on the bigger areas and hand sanding for the refined ares and curves - of importance is I noticed you never stripped the parts and electronic components and a=hardware, this is very unusual for me I've never seen professional refinishing where these parts were left in place, there's a million reason to remove them and only one reason not to. I use 100 and 1200 finishing paper wet to get the smooth finish then polycrylic isn't necessary - just a good primer. By "Backlash" I assume you mean 'slop' in the pushrod lines?
Yup, there’s no one way to do this stuff. The best process is the one that gives you the results you’re looking for. At the time this was labeled as a 1450mm airframe, hence why I stated 1450. Backlash is more of an engineering term but yeah, is essentially the slop that existed from the loose pushrod. The loose pushrod resulted in inconsistent movement and double centering which was no good.
@@Thercgeek And your results speak for themselves...as per my comment on the next video. Very nice finish, Im going to try your way next on my PC-2. Sorry I heard 450 not 1450. I had the Blue Nose Petiell 1400 P-51 V2 from FMS - I loved it
You should have used the latex spake that is pink and turns white when it dries lowes Home Depot sell it works well comes in a tube
I was pretty happy with the material I used. I’ve been using the shrink free spackle from sherwinn Williams of late and it’s really good too. I’ll look into the latex stuff.
is pollycrylic sandable ?
Yes and no. You can rough it up to prep it for paint, but it's hard to sand if you're doing much more than that. So, when applying it it's important to avoid drips and things like that as those don't sand out that well. The whole point of the poly is to seal up the airframe to give you a hardened surface to apply primer over. The prime/sand/prime process is what really smooths out a finish.
not sure whats going on but i took the tail fins down almost to bare foam and therest of the fuselage hasa scant amount of epoxy and primer. unless there was a balast weight in the nose when the plane was stock and the weight flew out when i had my crash then im stumped it looks like 6 oz of weight in the nose cowl will be needed to balance the airplane.
maby less if i use the stock 4 blade prop right now i have a 2 blade11x8.5 and it looks to small
Yeah, I'm not sure, that doesn't seem quite right. I do recall my FMS T-28 needing nose weight even in the stock paint though.
i barely made balance just pushing the 3s all the way forward... when is somebody going to come out with a fiberglass fuselage and wing lol the 5 oz extra weight itl probably fly fine i just weighed the plane with a 3s in it and a lighter 2 bade 11 inch and its around 58 oz I do have a radian thats way over weight and an epoxy and two part clear coated umx carbon cub that is way over and flies fine
yeah, I don't think a little extra weigh is going to hurt. On my FMS T-28, I found that the airplane actually flew better with a little extra weight (I flew the airplane with a 5000 pack).
Fun to watch. Weird last name... Mr. Geek.
What about balsa?
Balsa for what? As a build material I much prefer it to foam actually. But I’m not understanding your question related to the content of the video.
@@Thercgeek what steps would I take if I am planning to repaint a balsa airframe? I have the hanger 9 P-51D Mustang that was in an accident and I want to repaint it to silver. Going for the Tuskegee Airman scheme. I couldn’t find anyone on RUclips about it and I checked your website and couldn’t find anything relating to balsa
Ah, ok got it. Sounds like a fun project! For something like that, I'd personally end up fiberglassing the airframe and going that route. It's the most permanent finish you can get, but is a bit of work to do. It's my plan to show fiberglassing in the future as I have a number of projects that require it. Just haven't been able to get to those projects yet. I will have more time in the fall though.
where i can buy polyacrylic
It’s available at Home Depot
@@Thercgeek bro i am from Pakistan and there is no home depot
In all fairness, that was not specified in the original question. 😉. What you’re looking for is water based polyurethane. Anything similar should work
Wow - way too intense... is this a 3 month build or a year ?
It was only about 1.5 months or so working on this and the videos concurrently until it was completed.
You bought the wrong DAP stuff, DAP lightweight spackle works great. Its NOT called patch and paint.
I haven’t been fond of any of the DAP stuff in all honesty. I found sherwinn Williams shrink free spackle though which is really nice stuff! That’s what I’ve been using primarily these days.
I took advantage of my situation and heavily glassed the front of the cowl and painted it with white laquer base it looks sweet but i will be lightly sanding that and using a mist of Orion fine silver from house of kolor and painting the front of the cowl red for wild bette with fearless dick on the right side or dark blue or black? if i decide to keep it Kansas tornado. the extra resin and filler will act as weight. i am still thinking f i want to do a mod so I can use the opening in the nose for the battery but i dont think itl be necessary. if you want to see pics go to rc groups p47 1.2 meter im flying ferret.. because it sounds funny
who the hell is WE,,,, I only see you,,,, heheheheh
It’s myself and the mouse in my pocket. 🤣
ok,,, for me it is ,,, ME,, MYSELF,,, and I,,,, heheheheh