C10 Swap 2wd to 4x4 Conversion Modifiying Frame

In this video I will be modifying the 1967 Chevy C10 truck frame from 2wd to 4x4 drive. I show you what you have to modify the front of frame to fit the shackle for the front leaf spring. I show you some tips and tricks to make templates and cut out patches for your frame.
In this series I am swapping my 1967 Chevy C10 short bed truck from 2wd to 4wd using a 1982 3/4 ton Chevy squarebody chassis. I show you how I transfer the axles over to the shortened 1967 frame.

[@davidcraft4909]

I have just decided that I am going to convert my 72 C10 to a 4x4. I used to drag race it years ago, but about 2 years ago I got into off-roading. I have a samurai and I have never had as much fun with any other vehicle in my life. I used to drag race my C10 and that was pretty cool, but not as fun as going down trails with a group of people, and not as expensive. I will be following this build.

[@showmetrucks7113]

Yeah it seems more fun to take it off road

[@d.l.b3452]

Just found you . Incredible build I’m hooked.🇬🇧🧐🥇

[@showmetrucks7113]

Thanks for watching

[@deankay4434]

Old Tech Tip; Patterns for patch plates or even gaskets can be make quickly and accurately by 2 ways. Tape in place, then rub finger or hand over template paper and make sure to mark directions on back where mark is. Second, tap gently with hammer to imprint or even cut thru paper to create pattern. Us older guys alway kept Universal Gasket material and tapped it with a hammer to finish close enough to finish with scissors to make a gasket. Gaskets where made and supplied to manufactures in the 60’s into the 70’s by companies that made linoleum as it was falling of in sales during this period, but made from paper, woven cloth and much more, but created with linseed oil. (Word of Caution) Linseed and other oils when drying create heat during this “Exothermic” event that naturally occurs, so place in water and air or metal lid containers to prevent fire! It is strange to say I would slide gaskets out of a kit and see the words like “Armstrong” printed on angle & repetition across an intake gasket, but it made sense. Oh well, some info to file away! A cheap alternative to paper is at home improvement stores in the flooring section. It is “Red Rosin” paper. Used under hardwood floors, thicker than construction paper & 3 feet wide by 100 feet cost $9.50 - $12 dollars. I fab sheet metal and works a upholstery patterns for car/truck seats, mine is hanging off the ceiling in the garage. Thinking out loud. Retired Auto Tech.

[@showmetrucks7113]

Thanks for the info

[@davidcrumrine1165]

With the straight vertical cuts, welds and patches your frame will crack. All welds on a frame should be at an angle or kinda stair stepped. With them being straight vertically it makes the frame strong in one section and it won't flex at that point. Over time it will crack. Making all cuts and patches like this / allows the frame to flex over a wider area and not in one spot vertically.

[@showmetrucks7113]

Thanks for the input I actually switched to a different frame recently which is going to get more of a z cut

[@thejunkshop5022]

Where you cut the frame you could of went at a zig zag to help strengthen kind of like a puzzle piece instead of a butt weld but if your bracing it should be fine as well

[@showmetrucks7113]

Yeah I’ve seen that done also I just figured the 1/4” c channel brace I am going to use will be enough support

[@johnthompson6656]

Probably would help to bevel that big patch at more of an angle to help get torch in close.

[@showmetrucks7113]

The problem is the tungsten holder hitting the cab support

[@johnthompson6656]

@@showmetrucks7113 you might look into a short back cap and cutting down the tungstens.