The E-Book and Paperback at our Website: www.acservicetech.com/the-book The Paperback at Amazon: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support the Channel- www.patreon.com/acservicetech Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Nitrogen Regulator- amzn.to/2bXdR5f Uniweld NitroVue Flow Regulator- amzn.to/2GnsaAo Uniweld Nitrogen Flow Meter amzn.to/2brvoBg Air Acetylene Torch setup- amzn.to/2aQalsb 15% Silver Brazing Rods- amzn.to/2gVLyLc Uniweld Cap-N-Hook and #2 Tip Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2STp3Fe Ameriflame Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup #1 Tip- amzn.to/2SRm3JF #2 Tip for Oxy Acetylene Torch- amzn.to/2SPDaeD Cap-N-Hook Tip for Oxy Acetylene Setup- amzn.to/2MbhpUk Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector - amzn.to/2ckWACn 25 Valve Cores - amzn.to/2L37UJU 25 ¼” Brass Port Caps with rubber O-rings - amzn.to/2GIOdD2 Brass Valve Core Tool which holds 3 valve cores - amzn.to/2GFEbm2 Valve Core Torque Wrench - amzn.to/2GHiLoD Locking Cap Universal Lock/Unlock Tool - amzn.to/2GGAoVp Locking caps - amzn.to/2GFXZ8A Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh Yellow Jacket Sealright 90 Coupler- amzn.to/2LsU1V7 Yellow Jacket 1pk Compact Ball Valve- amzn.to/2uXdF18 Yellow Jacket 3pk Compact Ball Valve- amzn.to/2AiKfQe Thumb Screw Valve Core Depressor with Backseat- amzn.to/2mR0sCL UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI Yellow Jacket Gauge set & hoses amzn.to/2vLVkV9 Yellow Jacket 4 Port Manifold w Hoses amzn.to/2BkuGIq Digital Refrigerant Scale amzn.to/2b9oXYl Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh Accutrak VPE Ultrasonic Leak Detector amzn.to/2nFYKVe Accutrak VPE-GN Ultrasonic Leak Detector amzn.to/2Zy4IZP FieldpieceSMAN360 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2BdoaD4 FieldpieceSMAN460 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2nB4Fe6 Ultrasonic Leak Detector with Headphones- amzn.to/2B2cRO3 Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose amzn.to/2KUisW8 QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose amzn.to/2MMtVcg JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8 Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYlVyc Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" hose amzn.to/2umtcod CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1nM3O Supco Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1JRiA RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf Air Acetylene Torch setup amzn.to/2aQalsb 15% Silver Brazing Rods amzn.to/2gVLyLc Nitrogen Regulator amzn.to/2bXdR5f Nitrogen Flow Meter amzn.to/2brvoBg Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
I really like that you showed a brazing situation that was tricky (with the wind) -- lots of videos show brazing inside a building where environmental factos don't cause complications -- having videos that show complicated situations and how to approach them are the most valuable IMHO.
id set up a wall of sorts to block the majority of the wind then. shoot theres a item for when its raining where u magnatize an umbrella onto a condenser unit
I've been using this tip for years. When you get used to it, it's really hard to go back to a regular tip. Takes a little practice, but when you get it, it changes the game for sure.
what takes practice about it? the timing on heating up and not burning a few holes? I just want to know if they have some downsides to them, via design or overheating the copper. The flame looks really hot in this video. with the traditional tip ive always just heated from the bottom and places the silver on top, and let the heat do the work.
I have use it couple of times ...got out of a hard to get area one time. Later use it on another job and was frustrated. Have been practicing and have ha consistent results in practice
Great video Greg! Always spot on and proper. These videos will help many techs for years to come. I like how you explained every step in detail without any extra fluff. Great work!
Now your working smarter and not harder. Good job!!!! So many techs work to hard brazing with just Accetelye. Many dont realize how much easier it is using oxygen/accetelye set up. Using this rig and cold rags will prevent burning up TXV, solenoid valves, and so on. Good explanation of process also.
It is a bit too hot for plumbing work but it is something that you can test and play around with. They are pretty inexpensive to do some testing with, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel i will..i have a Question for you..can i put zone Thermostat for each floor from one unit(furnace or ac)i get this Question from Lot of customers And I couldn't find out the right answer Or video Explaining how it should be. I really appreciate you time And you answer.
I braze everyday I don't like any of the hook tips or the doubles. Just use a #2 tip 1 hole. You have more control of the heat as you are continually moving it along the copper. Also I prefer more on the neutral side of a reducing Flame. You need to learn not only side to side movements but in and out also. There are more than one way to do it but if you want the inside and outside of the copper to look nice use a number 2 tip wait about 10 seconds before putting water on it. If you wait longer than 30 seconds ot cool it tho the outside will start to oxidize.
I tried doing this after long camping weekend that involved lots of drinking. Even after a full Sunday of no drinking anything but water, on Monday I couldn’t hold the torch or rod steady to save my life. So, pro tip: don’t drink a lot leading up to a job like this. You’re not gonna have a good time.
When I brazed the lines and filter I would pull the pins then on the suction line start back about 5 inches from the valve and let the heat move up then hit it with the rod, same on the dryer and liquid line. Never damaged the valve or burned the paint on the dryer.. I used the turbo torch I thin the number 5 tip some times the 10 with larger lines..
How u doing sir.....amazing tutorial video here really appreciated...I need your help here recently I brought this very uniweld brazing tip The problem is this 1 doesn't fit my regular victor brazing torch Any suggestions from you will be very helpful
Hello, will you have the possibility to manage or change the temperature degrees in PDF? to Centigrade degrees? In MEXICO we use Degrees Celsius, our mind is for Degrees Celsius, the manometers and the metric tables. I am interested in your manual but in Celsius degrees
I have a factory that manufactures heat pump water heaters. Would you advise providing this cap n hook torch tip to my production guys? Will it help in being faster on the job and a better joint as well? As you would know, every step in manufacturing processes that minimises leaking joints will certainly help improve productivity.
Matthew, check out the comments about the book in this video or any of the newer videos. Also we have written some articles in the comment section of the channel so you can read reviews there. Also there are a few reviews so far on amazon. The full outline and some sample pages are at acservicetech.com/the-book thanks
This may seem like a dumb question....I bought one of these tips but every time I’m brazing at the condensing unit with a wet rag wrapped around the service valves, the torch ALWAYS pops and goes out. The only thing I can think of is I’m leaving the rag too wet and the steam is making it go out??? It’s super annoying because when I practiced on scrap copper with no wet rag on it, it works perfectly. Any ideas?
HI~~ I imported a welding torch MTF-5 HOOK 5-FLAME TIP last week. The connecting hose does not fit in south Korea. Where and what products should I buy? Please provide the internet site and product name. thank you ^_^
Sorry, it was 97 degrees and high humidity, so I was just thinking that I wanted to get the video done to complete the job, thanks for letting me know!
Where do you recommend the as the best place for the filter-drier installation? Air handler, or condenser unit? It seems like many of them are installed at the condenser unit.
Rookie Here: Does the copper need to be cleaned (sandpaper or brush) like that of copper when used for soldering for water? And do you use that hook tip all the time? Seems like a great way to heat all around the joint and control the flame from doing harm on other components. Thanks!
What should the gauge read when you get a new N2 bottle? I paid 10 bucks for one like yours, it had 2000 psi on it. I thought that was low, don't these handle 3000 psi? Thanks for your video.
When you are replacing a whole split system do you braze in the evaporator coil or the outside unit first? Does it matter, ie is one way easier or quicker?
I’ve never even seen a nitrogen flow meter like that. I’ll have to try it one. Nor have I ever used a Captain Hook tip. But I’m willing to try. Are the pressure settings on the tanks just for the Captain Hook tip or do you use for the same setting for a #1 or a #2 tip? I use a 8/20 setup.
You can use a higher pressure setup with the cap n hook setup but it is just something where you have to run it and do some trials with some junk tubing to test before brazing at susceptible components such as a txv or service valves, thanks DM!
indoors, everything is fitted together, you'd leave the nitrogen right where it is and go braze on the inside. you're maintaining the slight positive pressure with nitrogen so there's no oxygen at the coil and filter drier.
Blmonkey, thanks for answering ejcsds's question, yes just run enough to get rid of the air in the tubing without increasing the pressure in the tube otherwise pressurization will create a pinhole leak through your braze at the joint. We run the nitrogen at 3 cfh and a flow meter is needed to accomplish this, thanks!
@@paulconnolly2969 It should be in the description section but it is also listed at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech and you will see the picture for it, thanks!
The oxidation inside is bad due to contamination falling off and getting into metering devices and sensors? Or more just a contamination of refrigerant?
The oxidation seems to be reacting with rust inhibitors that are in the oil in the system from the factory. We are hearing of more and more strainers being clogged than ever before and it isn't with just loose pieces. Also the oxidation clogs the prefilter in the filter drier. Also the oxidation mixes with the oil and doesn't allow as much lubrication to the compressor since it is present throughout the oil. Of course it will depend on how many joints were brazed in the system and how much air was in the tubing while brazing but the lesson is that it really doesn't take much time to flow the nitrogen so why not? thanks TurboFlush!
@@acservicetechchannel Thank you, Was wondering what the effects would be.. most would just say,.. its just one joint, don't bother. I work with Thermoking units, and although the people working are certified.. have many wrong practices.
Generally speaking, 5psi is plenty for acetylene. Acetylene is also fairly unstable above 15psi or thereabouts. Low pressures also have the added benefit of being easier to adjust your flame. The oxygen pressure would be much higher if it were a cutting torch. Running an acetylene torch at 15psi is a good recipe for a backfire.
Thanks for answering Canyons question Andy and Charles, you both hit said what I would want to say! Set the pressures where they are comfortable for you. roughly 5 and 10 unless you want the flame to be hotter but it is safest and easiest to adjust at 5 and 10 but some run their oxygen a little higher, thanks!
begining of video says AC unit is full? as in Freon? how does it stay in there if you have removed the Shrader valves and have removed the removal tool to hook up the Nitrogen?
The condenser is factory charged with refrigerant. The two service valves have positions that will keep the refrigerant in the condenser but allow flow through the service access ports. His video on service valves is good material
Should have used the duel tip torch ....lol Always use a mirror and check the underside of your braze on the lineset . Save you time and nitrogen when pressure testing . Also why no use thermo paste or cool gel ??
Windy days are a bummer especially with 7/8” cooper . I appreciate your torch set-up. I use a turbo torch and enjoy it as well. Do you have any personal pros and/cons to using only a B tank?
@@nyxxolo5798 if you're burning a hole through the copper pipe then either the pipe is too thin (go with mapp gas in that situation) or you are holding the flame in one spot for long
AC Service Tech LLC I see some people use it but the acid concern make complete senses. I’m not an HVAC person but have the need to install a system now and then and looking for an option other than oxy acetylene brazing. BTW your videos are top notch. Thanks
That cap&hook looks sweet and I want to buy one. Is that your product? Seem like it has almost 400 reviews at $40 a pop. Good profit for simple little gadget.
Good video ! Alot of good basic information here. My Comments are: Good video ! But, 1) i Took a Welding class Many , Many Years ago and Was Taught --- For a Regular Welding tip #0-#3 Tip. 5 Psig - Acetylene. 20 Psig - Oxygen. I Like The Way the Flame is at 5 acet & 20psig oxy. The captain Hook tip - is Crazy interesting , but i think i will pass. Looks Good maybe for Residential only. Wayy to Hard to Control All that Heat Also would NEVER Fit any place i have to braze. inside evaps etc , Welding in capillary tubing etc. Give me a #1 & #2 Tip - and i Can Braze anything up to 1 1/8" Fast. 2) Flowing nitrogen - Flow just enough to fill the pipe & exit with a Light puff. you can't set a set amount. its differs with pipe size. The Key is Just enough to fill the pipe and Keep the air out. Ever so slight positive pressure is the key. Otherwise it can create a Hole in one of your welds if Flow is too much. You Have to be very careful with nitrogen pressure while welding. But All in all a Good video !
Things change over time and my Harris manual says for brazing "#3 tip- acetylene 3psig, oxygen 3psig. #5 tip- acetylene 5psig, oxygen 5psig. A neutral flame should be 50/50 oxy-acetylene and you will never need anything near 20psig oxygen for brazing. If you are cutting metal, yes, 20psig definately as the oxygen actually does the cutting, and can do so once started, even if the acetylene is shut off.
Got your book in nice stuff so far wish the book was made from better paper had alot of wrinkles on the top and bottom tho man expected a little better quality in material like the papers to be more thicker
Wild Man, Can you take any pictures and send them to my email at info@acservicetech.com ? This is the first time anyone has mentioned anything bad about the quality or any wrinkles. I would be very curious to see. This is the better quality paper and is glossy so that is odd, thanks!
Those service valves could be soldered in, brazed with a acetylene torch, or brazed with a reg oxy acet torch tip but I just wanted to show this tip in this one, thanks Andrew!
Rick and Andrew, we are still only getting the copper hot enoguh for the braze rod to melt. We are not overheating it otherwise the braze rod would run out of the joint. Same with air acet brazing, we are only getting it hot enough to melt the rod. The manufacturers are doing the same thing when they braze. We run nitrogen through to not allow oxidation inside the tubing. Check this video out on an experiment for running nitrogen while brazing, thanks for your comments! ruclips.net/video/ZjpnP9uhxyk/видео.html
Uniweld recommends the following pressures for the three different models of the Captain's Hook: MTF-5 (as shown in the video) Oxy 8psig | Acet 5psig MTF-9 Oxy 10psig | Acet 7psig MTF-17 Oxy 18psig | Acet 12psig in many cases I deviate from recommended pressures to get a reducing (or carbonizing) flame out of the nozzles. A neutral flame is usually too hot so you can burn through the copper. Question to all of you, what pressures are you all using for silver braze (silfos15) on copper? Are you all adjusting it for a reducing (or carbonizing) flame or is the neutral flame possible without making holes in the copper?
I feel like your refrigerant lines can be a bit cleaner. We run the liquid and suction lines closer together before we make the copper to brass connections. Besides that, your walk through for beginner was very concise.
Great, I was needed this video. Tell please about phosgene problem when you make the repair on the existing system. Tell please about green flame when you brazing. I'm a little bit scary about it. What is the proper safety technique????????? Thank you!!!!
So this was a new installation so we didn't have to worry much about it. The phosgene is a breakdown of the refrigerant that is trapped in the oil and it is created when it is heated. The only safe methods are to keep your face back and wear scba to avoid it completely. You can try a fan to blow it away from you biut you really need to avoid breathing it in at all. This is also why we need to get in and get out quickly when brazing along with not overheating joints. Holding your breath until you can get to a safe location is difficult while brazing but is what many do unless they wear scuba. The green flame as do to having the tips of the flame a little too close to the tube I could have adjusted the oxygen up a little more to try to avoid that biut also it is the mix of the acet and oxygen being off a bit because of the heavy wind. It was like a wind tunnel where I was brazing at and I did what I could with the audio. It was pretty bad with background noise between that and all the bugs that day in that location not to mention it was 97 degrees and crazy humidity! Thanks Tapch MC! The best thing to do is to look up the word phosgene in google and read as much as you can. It is probably the worst thing we deal with that is present besides the refrigerant itself, thanks!
Another thing to keep in mind is by using a nitrogen purge that helps, but most of the time you are supposed to cut out, not braze out. Course most don't because we need that copper there!
Certainly it can be used for that but I would recommend doing some trials with some junk tubing to test before brazing at susceptible components such as a txv or service valves, thanks Matt!
I have an off-topic question a potential customer has a 750 square foot manufactured home two bedrooms 1 bath. It does not have a central HVAC. The attic is only big enough for a zero clearance electric unit. Do you think running an electric unit it's going to cost my clients a fortune? Thank you, by the way could you recommend a package? A mini split won't do it by the way.
750 square feet ?? a mini split all day . Must be a tiny home ? Or run a ton 1 1\2 ton unit .but a mini split would be the best and most efficient way . You ruffly need 18,000 btu www.sogoodtobuy.com/blog/sizing-guide-for-a-mini-split-air-conditioner/
The E-Book and Paperback at our Website: www.acservicetech.com/the-book
The Paperback at Amazon: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support the Channel- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Nitrogen Regulator- amzn.to/2bXdR5f
Uniweld NitroVue Flow Regulator- amzn.to/2GnsaAo
Uniweld Nitrogen Flow Meter amzn.to/2brvoBg
Air Acetylene Torch setup- amzn.to/2aQalsb
15% Silver Brazing Rods- amzn.to/2gVLyLc
Uniweld Cap-N-Hook and #2 Tip Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2STp3Fe
Ameriflame Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup #1 Tip- amzn.to/2SRm3JF
#2 Tip for Oxy Acetylene Torch- amzn.to/2SPDaeD
Cap-N-Hook Tip for Oxy Acetylene Setup- amzn.to/2MbhpUk
Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL
RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector - amzn.to/2ckWACn
25 Valve Cores - amzn.to/2L37UJU
25 ¼” Brass Port Caps with rubber O-rings - amzn.to/2GIOdD2
Brass Valve Core Tool which holds 3 valve cores - amzn.to/2GFEbm2
Valve Core Torque Wrench - amzn.to/2GHiLoD
Locking Cap Universal Lock/Unlock Tool - amzn.to/2GGAoVp
Locking caps - amzn.to/2GFXZ8A
Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh
Yellow Jacket Sealright 90 Coupler- amzn.to/2LsU1V7
Yellow Jacket 1pk Compact Ball Valve- amzn.to/2uXdF18
Yellow Jacket 3pk Compact Ball Valve- amzn.to/2AiKfQe
Thumb Screw Valve Core Depressor with Backseat- amzn.to/2mR0sCL
UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq
Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI
Yellow Jacket Gauge set & hoses amzn.to/2vLVkV9
Yellow Jacket 4 Port Manifold w Hoses amzn.to/2BkuGIq
Digital Refrigerant Scale amzn.to/2b9oXYl
Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh
Accutrak VPE Ultrasonic Leak Detector amzn.to/2nFYKVe
Accutrak VPE-GN Ultrasonic Leak Detector amzn.to/2Zy4IZP
FieldpieceSMAN360 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2BdoaD4
FieldpieceSMAN460 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2nB4Fe6
Ultrasonic Leak Detector with Headphones- amzn.to/2B2cRO3
Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose amzn.to/2KUisW8
QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose amzn.to/2MMtVcg
JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8
Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYlVyc
Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYg6Ro
Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL
Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" hose amzn.to/2umtcod
CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1nM3O
Supco Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1JRiA
RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ
Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn
Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3
Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs
Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw
Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ
UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf
Air Acetylene Torch setup amzn.to/2aQalsb
15% Silver Brazing Rods amzn.to/2gVLyLc
Nitrogen Regulator amzn.to/2bXdR5f
Nitrogen Flow Meter amzn.to/2brvoBg
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
I really like that you showed a brazing situation that was tricky (with the wind) -- lots of videos show brazing inside a building where environmental factos don't cause complications -- having videos that show complicated situations and how to approach them are the most valuable IMHO.
id set up a wall of sorts to block the majority of the wind then. shoot theres a item for when its raining where u magnatize an umbrella onto a condenser unit
I've been using this tip for years. When you get used to it, it's really hard to go back to a regular tip. Takes a little practice, but when you get it, it changes the game for sure.
what takes practice about it? the timing on heating up and not burning a few holes? I just want to know if they have some downsides to them, via design or overheating the copper. The flame looks really hot in this video. with the traditional tip ive always just heated from the bottom and places the silver on top, and let the heat do the work.
I have use it couple of times ...got out of a hard to get area one time. Later use it on another job and was frustrated. Have been practicing and have ha consistent results in practice
What settings you use
Does it hurt being so good at teaching? 16 years in this field and I'm still learning a lot from your videos. ❤😊
Great video Greg! Always spot on and proper. These videos will help many techs for years to come. I like how you explained every step in detail without any extra fluff. Great work!
Craig*
Thank you very much Lester!
Now your working smarter and not harder. Good job!!!! So many techs work to hard brazing with just Accetelye. Many dont realize how much easier it is using oxygen/accetelye set up. Using this rig and cold rags will prevent burning up TXV, solenoid valves, and so on. Good explanation of process also.
Thanks Fly Eagles Fly!
Just acetylene? Waat? So yellow flame and black soot no heat, crazy?!
Goss makes a tip for just air acetylene too. Just sayin.
You have the best vidies on youtube for a young apprentice like me
Cool never used a Captain Hook tip. Will try for sure.👍👍👍👍
Never seen one.
Work well for plumbing?
It is a bit too hot for plumbing work but it is something that you can test and play around with. They are pretty inexpensive to do some testing with, thanks!
Thanks AC services Tech LLC I just ordered the services books set 3 of them... Great information I do really like your videos!
Excellent explanation, thanks for your time in making this videos.
Thanks Luis!
I like your way of explanation on all of your videos i hope you book will be good as your videos .i just ordered me one..great job always.
Thank you very much and please let me know what you think of the book after reading it!
@@acservicetechchannel i will..i have a Question for you..can i put zone Thermostat for each floor from one unit(furnace or ac)i get this Question from Lot of customers And I couldn't find out the right answer Or video Explaining how it should be. I really appreciate you time And you answer.
Thank you again for another great lesson, I will definitely be using the hook tip from now on.
Glad to hep Paul!
Nice video with lots of details.
I have studied the book its great also.
Thank you for your support!
That thing has been a life savor!
Awesome to hear!
In March 2020, I installed a new coil and condensing unit using StayBrite 8 soft solder. No nitrogen purge needed and no leaks.
Oxidation and moisture will still happen if you do not use nitrogen...
I have the hook in my quiver of tips. Works great in tight spaces where a longer flame could burn the structure or your nose hairs 😄
Sweet, thanks Tom!
Seriously youre videos are one of the best on youtube because you actually mention stuff that other videos fail to do! Can i come work with you? Lol
Thanks a lot Edgar!
Great video. Captain Hook tip is new to me. Will check out
Sounds good!
Very cool torch.
WELL DONE SIR.
GOOD WORK.
FROM RODOS ISLAND - GREECE.
FRIGOTECNICA
MARINE REFRIGERATION AND AIR CONDITIONING SERVICE - REPAIR.
Captain hook is one tip I wish I had but I thought the open part should be on the top like when soldering copper plumbing.
I braze everyday I don't like any of the hook tips or the doubles. Just use a #2 tip 1 hole. You have more control of the heat as you are continually moving it along the copper. Also I prefer more on the neutral side of a reducing Flame. You need to learn not only side to side movements but in and out also. There are more than one way to do it but if you want the inside and outside of the copper to look nice use a number 2 tip wait about 10 seconds before putting water on it. If you wait longer than 30 seconds ot cool it tho the outside will start to oxidize.
All good tips and everyone has their preferred method. I use this tip, #2, and air acet, thanks!
I tried doing this after long camping weekend that involved lots of drinking. Even after a full Sunday of no drinking anything but water, on Monday I couldn’t hold the torch or rod steady to save my life. So, pro tip: don’t drink a lot leading up to a job like this. You’re not gonna have a good time.
islam is right about alcohol lmao
That hook tip is awesome I need to get one of those.
They are fairly inexpensive to try, thanks!
The hook can use with acetylene only or need use with acetylene and oxygen?
@@josedaza544 Goss makes the tip you are looking for. Look up their vid here on youtube.
When I brazed the lines and filter I would pull the pins then on the suction line start back about 5 inches from the valve and let the heat move up then hit it with the rod, same on the dryer and liquid line. Never damaged the valve or burned the paint on the dryer.. I used the turbo torch I thin the number 5 tip some times the 10 with larger lines..
How u doing sir.....amazing tutorial video here really appreciated...I need your help here recently I brought this very uniweld brazing tip The problem is this 1 doesn't fit my regular victor brazing torch Any suggestions from you will be very helpful
Thank you for this video. About to hook up my new Capn hook tip.
Have you look into induction heating braze? wouldn't it be cleaner?
How do you handle nitrogen flow when replacing a failed compressor located inside the coil?
Your a legend and I love your book and videos. But wouldn't heating the line from the bottom be better since heat rises? Just a thought.
Sir, That captain hook tip can it work on other torch sets other that uniweld? Is there an adapter sold. Or is this tip proprietary equipment.
Hello, will you have the possibility to manage or change the temperature degrees in PDF? to Centigrade degrees? In MEXICO we use Degrees Celsius, our mind is for Degrees Celsius, the manometers and the metric tables. I am interested in your manual but in Celsius degrees
There’s your opening in the market, all metric, no inches mercury or tons , or ancient US technology
I have a factory that manufactures heat pump water heaters. Would you advise providing this cap n hook torch tip to my production guys? Will it help in being faster on the job and a better joint as well? As you would know, every step in manufacturing processes that minimises leaking joints will certainly help improve productivity.
Can you show brazing on air handler with nitrogen flow. There are no videos on it anywhere.
Here is a video on that- ruclips.net/video/7G1tj7KgdBk/видео.html
For 60 some bucks for the book, it better be far better than the free and 10-15 dollar stuff i've read and gone through.
Matthew, check out the comments about the book in this video or any of the newer videos. Also we have written some articles in the comment section of the channel so you can read reviews there. Also there are a few reviews so far on amazon. The full outline and some sample pages are at acservicetech.com/the-book thanks
I bought the books and highly recommend them
This may seem like a dumb question....I bought one of these tips but every time I’m brazing at the condensing unit with a wet rag wrapped around the service valves, the torch ALWAYS pops and goes out. The only thing I can think of is I’m leaving the rag too wet and the steam is making it go out??? It’s super annoying because when I practiced on scrap copper with no wet rag on it, it works perfectly. Any ideas?
CFH- Cubic feet per HOUR
I was trained using nitrogen on ice machines but when I went to appartment maintenance they didn't have the time or equipment.
HI~~
I imported a welding torch MTF-5 HOOK 5-FLAME TIP last week.
The connecting hose does not fit in south Korea. Where and what products should I buy?
Please provide the internet site and product name.
thank you ^_^
I wonder why you did not show the bottom part of the tube after brazing with a mirror? Not for your sake for ours.
Sorry, it was 97 degrees and high humidity, so I was just thinking that I wanted to get the video done to complete the job, thanks for letting me know!
Where do you recommend the as the best place for the filter-drier installation? Air handler, or condenser unit? It seems like many of them are installed at the condenser unit.
Air handler is best but lazy techs do it at condenser
Rookie Here: Does the copper need to be cleaned (sandpaper or brush) like that of copper when used for soldering for water? And do you use that hook tip all the time? Seems like a great way to heat all around the joint and control the flame from doing harm on other components. Thanks!
I was wondering about the flux as well
It should be cleaned all the time. But I have met some people that don't clean...
A cleaned ( sandpaper or scotchbrite rub)copper pipe is definitely good to have on a braze joint, although not as essential as in soldering.
It makes it easier to braze and looks better
What should the gauge read when you get a new N2 bottle? I paid 10 bucks for one like yours, it had 2000 psi on it. I thought that was low, don't these handle 3000 psi? Thanks for your video.
When you are replacing a whole split system do you braze in the evaporator coil or the outside unit first? Does it matter, ie is one way easier or quicker?
thank you for sharing!!!!!
Thanks jimbolla77!
Hook tip comes in handy. Looks like you never put solder on the bottom tubing. Pretty sure the solder got sucked in due to the hook tip.
I’ve never even seen a nitrogen flow meter like that. I’ll have to try it one. Nor have I ever used a Captain Hook tip. But I’m willing to try. Are the pressure settings on the tanks just for the Captain Hook tip or do you use for the same setting for a #1 or a #2 tip? I use a 8/20 setup.
You can use a higher pressure setup with the cap n hook setup but it is just something where you have to run it and do some trials with some junk tubing to test before brazing at susceptible components such as a txv or service valves, thanks DM!
So when you brazed in the coil and filter, did you just flow nitrogen on one side?
indoors, everything is fitted together, you'd leave the nitrogen right where it is and go braze on the inside. you're maintaining the slight positive pressure with nitrogen so there's no oxygen at the coil and filter drier.
@@thebluelunarmonkey Thanks
Blmonkey, thanks for answering ejcsds's question, yes just run enough to get rid of the air in the tubing without increasing the pressure in the tube otherwise pressurization will create a pinhole leak through your braze at the joint. We run the nitrogen at 3 cfh and a flow meter is needed to accomplish this, thanks!
I don’t see the link for flowmeter?
@@paulconnolly2969 It should be in the description section but it is also listed at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech and you will see the picture for it, thanks!
Cap n hook MTF 5 connector size ?
How much give psi working time।
Did it work on the bottom of the joint? I find that part can be difficult to braze together if you don't heat it up and suck it throigh properly
The oxidation inside is bad due to contamination falling off and getting into metering devices and sensors?
Or more just a contamination of refrigerant?
The oxidation seems to be reacting with rust inhibitors that are in the oil in the system from the factory. We are hearing of more and more strainers being clogged than ever before and it isn't with just loose pieces. Also the oxidation clogs the prefilter in the filter drier. Also the oxidation mixes with the oil and doesn't allow as much lubrication to the compressor since it is present throughout the oil. Of course it will depend on how many joints were brazed in the system and how much air was in the tubing while brazing but the lesson is that it really doesn't take much time to flow the nitrogen so why not? thanks TurboFlush!
@@acservicetechchannel
Thank you,
Was wondering what the effects would be.. most would just say,.. its just one joint, don't bother.
I work with Thermoking units, and although the people working are certified.. have many wrong practices.
@@turboflush Got ya, sorry to hear that, it doesn't take that long to do for sure, thanks!
Is using a cap and hook much easier to heat the copper tubing compared to a single torch tip?
Yep, heat all at once for easy removal or for all at once solder application with no need to move around.
I need to get gas certified since most ppl seem to not be as good as this as they should be ...
What’s the idea behind putting the acetylene pressure at 5 psi and the oxygen at 10 psi? Why are those the ideal pressures?
Pipe size, tips size and some have their own preference. I use 5-6 psi and 10-12psi all depends on the job and finding what works for me
Generally speaking, 5psi is plenty for acetylene. Acetylene is also fairly unstable above 15psi or thereabouts. Low pressures also have the added benefit of being easier to adjust your flame. The oxygen pressure would be much higher if it were a cutting torch. Running an acetylene torch at 15psi is a good recipe for a backfire.
Thanks for answering Canyons question Andy and Charles, you both hit said what I would want to say! Set the pressures where they are comfortable for you. roughly 5 and 10 unless you want the flame to be hotter but it is safest and easiest to adjust at 5 and 10 but some run their oxygen a little higher, thanks!
begining of video says AC unit is full? as in Freon? how does it stay in there if you have removed the Shrader valves and have removed the removal tool to hook up the Nitrogen?
The condenser is factory charged with refrigerant. The two service valves have positions that will keep the refrigerant in the condenser but allow flow through the service access ports. His video on service valves is good material
Should have used the duel tip torch ....lol
Always use a mirror and check the underside of your braze on the lineset . Save you time and nitrogen when pressure testing .
Also why no use thermo paste or cool gel ??
Wet rag seems to be sufficient for service valves but i use the thermopaste on sensitive objects like the reversing valve, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel plus the rag is cheeper.
Hi where can i buyo that hook
R E Michel Forest Park Ga
Windy days are a bummer especially with 7/8” cooper . I appreciate your torch set-up. I use a turbo torch and enjoy it as well. Do you have any personal pros and/cons to using only a B tank?
Pro: only one tank to worry about a refill
Con:not as hot as oxygen/acetylene
@@johnbrown1960 Another pro and con cant burn a hole through the copper
@@nyxxolo5798 if you're burning a hole through the copper pipe then either the pipe is too thin (go with mapp gas in that situation) or you are holding the flame in one spot for long
Do you oppose Stay Brite 8 solder for refrigeration line connections? Thanks
No, Stay Brite will hold the R-410A pressure but the only issue is just addign the flux which is acidic into the system. I try to avoid acid, thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC I see some people use it but the acid concern make complete senses. I’m not an HVAC person but have the need to install a system now and then and looking for an option other than oxy acetylene brazing. BTW your videos are top notch. Thanks
That cap&hook looks sweet and I want to buy one. Is that your product? Seem like it has almost 400 reviews at $40 a pop. Good profit for simple little gadget.
That is a Uniweld tip
Good video ! Alot of good basic information here.
My Comments are: Good video ! But,
1) i Took a Welding class Many , Many Years ago and Was Taught --- For a Regular Welding tip #0-#3 Tip. 5 Psig - Acetylene. 20 Psig - Oxygen.
I Like The Way the Flame is at 5 acet & 20psig oxy.
The captain Hook tip - is Crazy interesting , but i think i will pass. Looks Good maybe for Residential only.
Wayy to Hard to Control All that Heat Also would NEVER Fit any place i have to braze. inside evaps etc , Welding in capillary tubing etc. Give me a #1 & #2 Tip - and i Can Braze anything up to 1 1/8" Fast.
2) Flowing nitrogen - Flow just enough to fill the pipe & exit with a Light puff. you can't set a set amount. its differs with pipe size. The Key is Just enough to fill the pipe and Keep the air out. Ever so slight positive pressure is the key. Otherwise it can create a Hole in one of your welds if Flow is too much.
You Have to be very careful with nitrogen pressure while welding.
But All in all a Good video !
Thanks OC refrigeration!
Things change over time and my Harris manual says for brazing "#3 tip- acetylene 3psig, oxygen 3psig. #5 tip- acetylene 5psig, oxygen 5psig. A neutral flame should be 50/50 oxy-acetylene and you will never need anything near 20psig oxygen for brazing. If you are cutting metal, yes, 20psig definately as the oxygen actually does the cutting, and can do so once started, even if the acetylene is shut off.
Got your book in nice stuff so far wish the book was made from better paper had alot of wrinkles on the top and bottom tho man expected a little better quality in material like the papers to be more thicker
Wild Man, Can you take any pictures and send them to my email at info@acservicetech.com ? This is the first time anyone has mentioned anything bad about the quality or any wrinkles. I would be very curious to see. This is the better quality paper and is glossy so that is odd, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel will do but not tryna knock it the content and the way you break down things is excellent
عمل ممتاز شكرا لك
that torch tip seems very overkill when it is a simple 5/8 and 3/8 weld on a resi unit.
Those service valves could be soldered in, brazed with a acetylene torch, or brazed with a reg oxy acet torch tip but I just wanted to show this tip in this one, thanks Andrew!
Rick and Andrew, we are still only getting the copper hot enoguh for the braze rod to melt. We are not overheating it otherwise the braze rod would run out of the joint. Same with air acet brazing, we are only getting it hot enough to melt the rod. The manufacturers are doing the same thing when they braze. We run nitrogen through to not allow oxidation inside the tubing. Check this video out on an experiment for running nitrogen while brazing, thanks for your comments! ruclips.net/video/ZjpnP9uhxyk/видео.html
Uniweld recommends the following pressures for the three different models of the Captain's Hook:
MTF-5 (as shown in the video) Oxy 8psig | Acet 5psig
MTF-9 Oxy 10psig | Acet 7psig
MTF-17 Oxy 18psig | Acet 12psig
in many cases I deviate from recommended pressures to get a reducing (or carbonizing) flame out of the nozzles.
A neutral flame is usually too hot so you can burn through the copper.
Question to all of you, what pressures are you all using for silver braze (silfos15) on copper?
Are you all adjusting it for a reducing (or carbonizing) flame or is the neutral flame possible without making holes in the copper?
Thought it was a carburizing flame
@@rojobandito318 Sorry for the spelling error I meant 'carburizing flame' the term 'carbonizing' does not exist in the trade
open your nitrogen bottle 100% for safety, the relief is on there.
I feel like your refrigerant lines can be a bit cleaner. We run the liquid and suction lines closer together before we make the copper to brass connections. Besides that, your walk through for beginner was very concise.
I thought those lines were the discharge and suction. If That's the liquid line, wheres the suction line?
Discharge line is the suction line, but that's in heat mode and in cool mode respectively.
Great, I was needed this video. Tell please about phosgene problem when you make the repair on the existing system. Tell please about green flame when you brazing. I'm a little bit scary about it. What is the proper safety technique????????? Thank you!!!!
So this was a new installation so we didn't have to worry much about it. The phosgene is a breakdown of the refrigerant that is trapped in the oil and it is created when it is heated. The only safe methods are to keep your face back and wear scba to avoid it completely. You can try a fan to blow it away from you biut you really need to avoid breathing it in at all. This is also why we need to get in and get out quickly when brazing along with not overheating joints. Holding your breath until you can get to a safe location is difficult while brazing but is what many do unless they wear scuba. The green flame as do to having the tips of the flame a little too close to the tube I could have adjusted the oxygen up a little more to try to avoid that biut also it is the mix of the acet and oxygen being off a bit because of the heavy wind. It was like a wind tunnel where I was brazing at and I did what I could with the audio. It was pretty bad with background noise between that and all the bugs that day in that location not to mention it was 97 degrees and crazy humidity! Thanks Tapch MC! The best thing to do is to look up the word phosgene in google and read as much as you can. It is probably the worst thing we deal with that is present besides the refrigerant itself, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Thank you Craig for the complete full answer!
Glad to help Tapch MC and thank you again for your support on Patreon!
Another thing to keep in mind is by using a nitrogen purge that helps, but most of the time you are supposed to cut out, not braze out. Course most don't because we need that copper there!
I think the thumbs down are from other hvac RUclipsr = jealously
I said the same thing, Craig does it the right way and some just do not get it.
Thank you very much John and Andy! There is always some who like to give the thumbs down, its ok, thanks!
I've never seen a cap and hook set up. How do you feel using this set up for swapping out a compressor?
Certainly it can be used for that but I would recommend doing some trials with some junk tubing to test before brazing at susceptible components such as a txv or service valves, thanks Matt!
what about the gloves that you wear?? are they insulated?
These ones are not that thick but do provide protection, thanks!
I hate this tip makes it impossible to braze under the joint . The dual tip one comes in second to the regular tip .
Thanks for letting me know!
5:22 - Brazing
I have an off-topic question a potential customer has a 750 square foot manufactured home two bedrooms 1 bath. It does not have a central HVAC. The attic is only big enough for a zero clearance electric unit. Do you think running an electric unit it's going to cost my clients a fortune? Thank you, by the way could you recommend a package? A mini split won't do it by the way.
750 square feet ?? a mini split all day . Must be a tiny home ? Or run a ton 1 1\2 ton unit .but a mini split would be the best and most efficient way .
You ruffly need 18,000 btu
www.sogoodtobuy.com/blog/sizing-guide-for-a-mini-split-air-conditioner/
Also if it doesnt have duct work a trunk line or any registers then there's that cost to factor .plus all the work involved .
Brah, when am I going to see a correct video....😭🤣