How To Silver Solder (Braze) a Copper Pipe (A/C Line Repair) | GOT2LEARN
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2018
- This video will explain to you in details how to silver solder (BRAZE) copper the CORRECT way so you can do it yourself and not have to pay an expensive plumber and save TONS OF $$$$!
Torch kit: amzn.to/32Q1LYF
Pencil reamer: amzn.to/2tBuhKW
All-in-one deburring tool: amzn.to/3B9dLUv
DISCLAIMER: Got2Learn is NOT responsible for any damage done to a property of which the plumbing wasn't done by a professional, I do not recommend doing your own plumbing if you are unsure about what you are doing, always hire a LICENSED contractor when doing any type of plumbing so you can be covered by insurances if something does happen, these videos are for entertainment purposes only!
Years ago I switched to a double tip head for brazing tubing and never went back. It makes quick work of the job, helping to eliminate potential issues associated with having the flame on the joint too long, especially at compressor joints. The head is not very big and works nicely brazing in tight spots.
yes I use a double tipped head as well and it works so much better
I always liked to turn off the acetylene first to get that satisfying SNAP when the flame goes out.
This is the most comprehensive channel on hand brazing I've ever found.
Thank you so much!!!!
This guy nails is every time!
Great practical explanation and demonstration. Very straight forward and easy to follow. Thx!
Thank you very much, don't forget to share :)
I Saw Most HVAC Techs don't clean the joints before Brazing. But it will always better to clean the joints
Great video man, I’ve been learning more about how to Braze at my job and this helped answer a lot of questions I had!
Awesome, good to hear that ;)
Not to bad my man. I’m typically pretty critical about people on RUclips pointing out bad info people give on these type of informative videos because I’m a sprinkler fitter/pipefitter by trade. But this video pretty much covers it start to finish. Only thing you left out is that you can braze with a b-tank. You just need the bigger tip. We call them turbo torches. That’s what we use. But all in all man that was pretty damn good. Hats off.
Wow, thanks buddy, great comment ;)
I did this for the very first time when I installed AC system in my house that I built in 1992 - system still works just fine - has R12 refrigerant - haven't silver soldered since...🇺🇲
I aced my brazing/soldering practical assessment because of this channel.
I wish there was a video about reading diagrams and about measuring and making allowances for fittings mj clamps etc
That's cool to hear, thanks buddy ;)
What a fantastic video . Extremely informative, thorough but still very fun to watch....you are the master👍
Best comment yet ;) thanks for being so supportive, have a great day!
Got2Learn : well, I just speak the truth and give credit where credit is due! ... great day to you to and thanks for the reply.
;) please share if you can, it goes a long way ;)
Excellent brazing video, very informative. The best I've seen so far.
My pleasure man, glad you liked it, don't forget to subscribe and share, it helps a lot :)
I've always wanted to see how to do some brazing, excellent video and I think it covered quite a bit too.
Thanks man, you pretty much have everything you need now ;)
What a great copper brazing video!!! Good job bro, it is really helpful...
Thx a lot Ahmed, really appreciate it buddy!!!!
Wow.....explained like real pro.
Videos from you should be part of education curriculum.
My pleasure man, glad you liked it, don't forget to subscribe and share, it helps a lot :)
Hey good job! That was one of the best videos I've seen very informative.
Thanks a lot man, please share if you can ;)
fatcat007 0
Great video.It's a real pleasure to see you work.
Thank you so much Nelson!
6:20 strikes gold.
Thank you
Thanks!!!
Ok, I haven't watched this video yet, but I've yet to see one of your videos that I wouldn't recommend to others on "how to do it well". Thanks for what you do.
Great to hear! I'd love if you can share with your friends and family, it would help keep this channel running healthy, thx again!!
Estupendo TUTORIAL de enseñanza...thank friend!
surprised to see so many fitters applauding this video. Good info but the technique was pretty poor. The heat should be used to draw the filler around the joint as well as into it. The heat and dab moves are for welding not brazing... COME AT ME!
25 yr HVAC/R service tech
Dabs welding brazzing dragging
If you really need light equipment to solder you can use a map pro gas with two turbo torch, I used in 1/2 OD copper tube with %5 of silver, works good but the heat spread a lot and if you have some sensitive devices (sight glass, shut off valve or some pieces with seals) can be a problem, if this is your case practice with a wet raft before doing the final soldering.
Very nice 👍.Very professional. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure buddy ;)
Wonderful information, very well done!
Glad you enjoyed it
Make sure to wear safety glasses 🥽 when brazing the heat from the torch can burn your eyes and cause damage or even blindness
I like using acytelyne and a A-2 torch tip with a hose with handle, regulator with adjustable valve and gauge, and the tank of coarse has square key and shut off.
Very informative and easy to listen to thank you.
Thanks!!!
You have a done a clean perfect job, thank you!
Thanks a lot Eames!!
@@Got2Learn you're welcome
Thank you very much
-from Japan
I used a bigger turbo torch given by lead man today.I doubt it will work with 2” but actually works.
excellent explanation I now understand the word Braze and how to do it
Thank you so much!!!
This guy is a great teacher!
My pleasure man, glad you liked it, don't forget to subscribe and share, it helps a lot :)
I subscribed in the middle of watching lol. Great vid. great content. Thanks bro!
Reminds me of oxy-acetylene welding week, good times. When the puddle blows up in your face. I was so scared of getting a backfire and a flashback. But the equipment I found is relatively fool proof and safe
;)
Great video. Step by step, giving great explanations for everything.
Much appreciated!
Very helpful, thanks for the video!
My pleasure buddy, please share if you don't mind ;)...where you from in Canada?
@@Got2Learn Ontario, about 30-45min North of TO.
Sweet!
Need to work on my LG residential refrigerator. Pipes are smaller (may be 1/4" or 5/16"). Can I use a regular propane cylinder and torch instead of the Oxy-Acetylene equipment? Also do I need to use brazing rods or a solder? Thanks
Nice video, should recommend people take welding class, because of other inherent dangers associated with this type of torch set. Lots of guys out there looking to do skilled trade work, without proper training.
Absolutely!
Dont forget the drop test to check for leaks in the oxy-acy lines before you fire up. Safety before anything.
HELPFUL AND INFORMATIVE . TY
Thank you very much!!!
Very informative, thank you,
My pleasure man, glad you liked it, don't forget to subscribe and share, it helps a lot :)
Excellent instructions, by the book
👌👌👌
Really good video, thanks mate
🍻🍻🍻
Very helpful. Thank you...
You should do a video on brazing copper-bronze or copper to steel.
Great video. Thanks
😊😊😊
What about flowing nitrogen through the pipe while brazing? A lot of HVAC installation videos use nitrogen while brazing but they don't show exactly the path the nitrogen gas takes through the HVAC piping. For example while installing a new condenser on a split air conditioner. Can you explain this setup in a reply? Thanks.
Yes, they basically just you nitrogen to purge the lines while the braze, the pipe doesn't crust up as much inside and it prevent any regulators down the line from getting blocked
Very informative and helpful video. Thanks.
Thanks for the great comment buddy, really appreciate it, i'd love if you can share it that would be awesome :)
And It is used for underground joints ... at least in Canada
It is in code.
Good stuff bro.
Thx @dennis boyer, really appreciate your comment, if you can share it that would be very nice of you ;)
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. I'm installing a mini split A/C and while routing the copper tubes, the low pressure line (1/2 diameter) kinked. This means that I'll have to cut off the kinked sections and rejoin the tube with a fitting. Is soldering the tubes enough, or should I braze it as you described in your video? Thanks
Must braze for mini-splits! 👌👌👌
@@Got2Learn Thank you very much for the quick reply. Your videos are excellent.
@@DAGenao thank you too for the nice compliment 😇
replace pipe use somewhere else mini splits are all flare fittings
not worth the hassle to have to purge line properly while brazing
then to have to leak check it
swap pipe connect 4 flare fittings and all good
@@shawnbutler3447 my diy mini split does not have flaired dittings but it is a24,000 tu
Hey man! Awesome video! How many minutes of brazing can you get out of those small tanks? Thanks!
Thanks man, a lot of time...less than with full-blown tanks but they still last long. If you you are oxy-cutting, it's a different story ;)
So is a carburizing flame the same as a reducing flame?
Great video! Are there any other channels like your own that you recommend?
Thanks, I don't know of any others, sorry!
thank you
Good video. Just something to consider: Those random numbers flashing above the text in some segments seem completely arbitrary and don't jive with a skills/training/learning video vibe enough that I had to pause and write this.
Excellent!
🤗🤗🤗
Very good!
Thanks!
Nice video dude...I like the way you explain! Got a question for you...when the copper pipe is cherry red
and ready to melt the rod...are you saying to keep the flame torch on the copper pipe & not the rod
at that point..and to use the rod to melt around the copper pipe? I ask this as my brazing is a little
rusty and sometimes I'm not getting a smooth braze & not a good finish!
Also should the flame from the torch always be slightly above the solder rod when brazing
once the joint is ready to melt...such as a green flame?
I never heat the rod itself, the heat from the joint must melt it just like when soldering. I just heat the joint close to cherry red and follow the flame with the rod. Once that's done, I cap it ever so slightly to give it that extra strength :)
@@Got2Learn Thanks for responding bro & your feedback but when you say you once it's cherry red and you follow the flame...what do you mean by that? I don't get you dude? Reason I'm saying that is the flame is already being heated over & covering the pipe! So how do you follow the flame?
Also what do you mean by you cap it ever so slightly regarding the joint?
Btw...I'm from London UK....Peace out y'all.. HVAC krew!
You need to make sure you are heating the pipe and applying the rod at the same time, so to do that, you need to heat offset of where you are applying your rod, for example: You heat at 12 o clock and you apply rod at 9 o clock while turning in a clockwise motion, the rod needs to follow the flame not the opposite, hope this is clear. This also makes sure that you aren't heating the actual rod, a mistake that a lot of people make!
@@Got2Learn Nice 1 bro... most appreciated dude!
Good on you mate...
Thanks 👍
I have a copper natural gas line in my house (gas provider allows it) and I'm adding a branch for a gas stove using csst (pro-flex). I'm having a hell of a time figuring out how to transition and also what filler material to use. The filler has to contain less than .05% phosphorus. Any input?
I'll let a gas expert answer you on this one, we will both learn from it 🙏
I'm an ole plumber in Texas and years ago we were not allowed to use any Copper on natural gas lines because something about the Gas companies added another additive in the the natural gas..Saying it corrodes Copper.
The sulfur in the natural gas is whats bad for the copper lines. It will deteriorate it over time. Copper can be used for propane but I would only do that outside of the house for the high pressure side off the tank to the regulator like most company's do. Pretty sure they use type k copper.
I watched a lot of your video and I learned a lot from them. And I just wondering, could you tell me what kind of torch I can use for solder from copper 1/2 inch to 1 inch? Please! It would help me a lot to get the right tool for the right job, I would like to get some more advices from you, If you don't mind. Thank you for reading this and you have a good day!
Sure, this head right here: www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS8000-Intensity-Trigger-Start/dp/B0019CQL60?ac_md=2-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkMjUgYW5kICQ1MA%3D%3D-ac_d_pm&cv_ct_cx=plumbing+torch&dchild=1&keywords=plumbing+torch&pd_rd_i=B0019CQL60&pd_rd_r=55b4d663-3537-4a4b-9a8b-853e232708d5&pd_rd_w=jGyJp&pd_rd_wg=dyiwM&pf_rd_p=ed561ba8-5ea6-49a4-9ab5-37ca86c823dd&pf_rd_r=0SP047RFKDXN4DJAG0J7&psc=1&qid=1612979640&sr=1-2-22d05c05-1231-4126-b7c4-3e7a9c0027d0&linkCode=sl1&tag=gottolearnsho-20&linkId=1d7de896e5163c699e0c3f70d5de0811&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
Thank you. I have this head already. I mean the one have the pencil flammable. I can use that head in the tight spot and not burning anything
amzn.to/2U3OTaa
Thank you so much
@@HieuTran-xx2sb 🙏
I need to do brazing qualification as per sec 9 for copper half inch and 1 inch pipe. Shall i use nitrogen gas for purging pls advise
Most probably yes, what are you brazing on?
I'm using 1/2" copper L pipe for my air compressor lines. If I braze the joints do I need to use a flux of some sort? I've got a roll of Oatey Silver Solder I was going to use... Or am I better off just using a regular Solder and Flux?
If you are brazing, just get silfos rods, they have flux built into them ;)
Regular solder & flux work well for 1/2" L pipe used for an air compressor run...... brazing is overkill, especially for the thinner L pipe......
does your kit came with the flash back arrester? i am looking to buy the same kit but not sure.
great video by the way...thanks alot
Yes, mine came with the arrestors on the torch ;) thanks btw!
Should have a flash-back arrestor between the regulator and the hose.
Right on the torch is useless
You can also use a mapp and oxygen setup which burns hot enough too.
Yeah, that's also another vial option ;)
We have kids in our class that want to finish off this joint!!!! Especially having to watch this video. But all in all good stuff.
Awesome vide and great explanation.
Nice
Thank you!!
A good video man However the visual demonstration didn't really show the difference between a neutral flame and A oxidizing flame
The difference between both is very minimal: ruclips.net/user/clipUgkxgG4UY2MCFO8M2-RwKnAtm-VSRs3swLRA
@@Got2Learn right on ty, will there also be an audible difference? Neutral should be quiet/peaceful than the other?
the inner flame will be longer, a bit less higher pitch too.
I was tought by the oxy-ace 5 psi and oxygen at 10 psi standard.
Yup!!
@@Got2Learn Thanks for taking the time to create this video! I just finished my brazing course. Now I'll be learning electricity for the next 2 weeks. Hopefully my brain doesnt turn into spaghetti
Hehe, have fun buddy ;)
I usually use 5 and 10 with rose bud and 8 and 25 for cutting I’ve never seen anyone use 5 and 5
one thing i never understood is how the rod starts melting so fast simply by scratching it on the surface,i mean dont it take time before the tip of the rod reaches its melting temp since the length of the rod acts like a heat sink ? or do the composition makes it retain heat much faster?
The surface becomes so hot it just has no choice to melt ;)
@@Got2Learn seems like there is tremendous and fast heat transfer to the tip to be able to work so fast specially when its silver and cooper composition which by themselves need upwards of 1000degC to melt
You got that right, the pipe and fitting needs to be read hot for it to melt ;)
@@Got2Learn on copper soldering or brazing would you say a neutral flame is better then carburising?
I always go for the neutral flame, I explain why in the video, check it out ;)
Was it just the shot or is your extinguisher due for a re-charge? Good stuff.
It's still good forva bit, but yeah I gotta recharge it ;)
We always adjust our torch so no black smoke comes out of it right at the beginning aswell and always close acetylene first so the oxygen can blow out the rest and you dont get black smoke. You say you use the same pressures? We always have around 0,8 bar acetylene and around 2 bar oxygene as a rule here, differs from country to country :-)
😌
@@Got2Learn Oh and the picture of the oxidation flame, you taught me something there, noone in my career has ever explained to me why we want the correct flame xD so thanks!
🙏🙏🙏
I was always taught turn acetylene off first. A before O or up you go was the saying.
I have a small crack in the liquid line at the bend just above the compressor. tight spot, wondering if I should use 15% or higher and also a jewelers torch so I can avoid over heating / damaging the compressor? Did this happen because the 3 compressor anchor bolts were tightened down too much causing too much vibration on the liquid line.
It happened because who knows. The bolts are supposed to be tight, so the compressor won't vibrate so bad and so it stays put.
You want to use the normal brazing rod, only use a different type of rod, if you need the rod to braze different things (i.e. copper to steel, aluminium to copper, diff applications)
Idk what a Jewelers torch is, but as long as it gets hot enough to melt the brazing rod, that's what you need, as explained in the video. For simplicity sake, use a turbo torch or oxy acetylene torch.
Also, it sounds like you have no idea what you're doing, I hope you know what type of refrigerant is in the system, because if it's propane or something flammable, you're toast. The label isn't always correct. There might be some back pressure from the remaining refrigerant in the compressor, even after the refrigerant has been recovered, making it near impossible to braze.
Whenever you put the new line, give yourself wiggle room, so it doesn't crack again.
Hope it goes well, don't do it u less you know what you're doing, because you're going to have a bad time
@@urjnlegend "sounds like I have no idea what I'm doing" If I had no idea what I was doing, I would not know what questions to ask... I own a recovery machine and a vacuum pump - lines are dry - no refrigerant - no propane... dry. "Normal brazing rod" most HVAC guys I talked to use silfos #15 brazing sticks for this type of repair.
@@earthstewardude that is what we use. There is a product called thermo trap. You can get it a Grainger or similar supply house. You apply it on the copper where you don't want the heat to go. Use a regular acetylene/oxygen torch kit but keep the flame short. The liquid line should be easy to seal just don't get it too hot.
I was told 5/10. Does 5/5 create same amount of heat? Are you useing 5/5 due having equal pressures so not to have a flashback?
Yes, 50/50.
5/5 is WRONG. 5/10 is the correct method.
Always use nitro for brazing. Very critical for ductless splits.
I'm sorry but is this the right way to do it? Pretty sure the silver should flow through and should be visible in the line where both pipes come together inside.
? It's the correct way.
That was helpful, you know your shit...
may i know what is the complete name of brazing rods
Silfos 15
Well done - thanks.
Thank you too!
around 7:30 explains how to use the filler material
im leaving this comment because thats the main thing i get confused about so i want to be able to get back there easily.
💪
This is amusic video
What is your torch model?
Harris, but I dunno what the model is, not at home right now.
Why is brazing for more strength if solder joint is not going to fail before pipe will. Soldered copper pipe holds up to 725psi
Yeah but chuck in movement of any kind and pop goes the weasel.
Wait you said already that the oxygen side was all the way open then you said after you light it go ahead and open up the oxygen side and I'm trying to figure out how to use one of these things not blow myself up and nobody even has clear instructions on here. What do I set my tanks to and what is the step-by-step process?. Why would I open the tanks to 5 PSI then close them both all the way back and then light it and then open up the oxygen all the way but you already said that the acetylene's open all the way too like it doesn't make sense
Good video however you should try all that laying on your back inside a counter refrigerator.
This is more to show the technique, but yeah under a counter is a pain for sure!
nice fillet
Thanks!!!
Your a pro 👌🏻👏🏻😍
Hehe ;)
Can you please provide the link to buy these
You only liked the comment, but didn't provide link/URL :(
Which link are you looking for, sorry daisy.
@@Got2Learn to buy this brazing torch
This is pretty much the same kit I have (mine was discontinued) but ESAB is a very well known brand: amzn.to/32Q1LYF
@@Got2Learn thank you so much. I will buy this kit. You r great. Thanks again
I thought brazing was because you were using brass to weld with. I found that easier than welding but harder than soldering...but strong and could adhere to other things than the others. Live and learn!
Braising is also used when connecting dissimilar metals, like brass to copper, stainless steel to copper etc. so you are not wrong. In HVAC/R we work with a bunch or brass, stainless steel and copper and have had to learn how to control the heat in such a way it doesn’t destroy those pieces or the components inside.
I need this in Spanish to teach my men
Omg if this guy saw all of my brazes he would do flips, my brazes be tight but messy
You need to check out Stay-brite 8
Your videos are good, but I wish there was a way you could remove the music. Very distracting and doesn't have any benefit.
🙏🙏
My a/c stopped working in my house. I inspected my unit and found that there is a small copper line coming out the side of my condenser that was rubbing against another line. It rubbed a small pin hole in the line and all my Freon leaked out.
I called a company and they gave me a estimate of almost $1000 to fix it. I can't afford that.. Can I braze that pin hole myself? Only thing is I don't have a acetylene torch. I only have a propane torch.. Would that work to heat a silver rod enough just to cover a tiny hole?
Once I get hole fixed then ill figure out how to recharge the system lol
It's worth a try! Try using 2 torches at once if 1 isn't enough, you need 840°c of heat to melt the silfos rods ;)
@@Got2Learn ok.. That's a good idea.. Thank you!
Np!!!
You probably already tried at this point, as its been a month since you posted. However, maybe try MAPP Gas. Much hotter than propane, not much more expensive. May require different propane torch. I got my kit at Menards, one tank MAPP gas, and a torch for $25.
We in finland at our school (poke) braze our pipes we dont solder at all. Im 17 im going to be plumber
And in our oxy acetylene tanks the flasback arrestors are after the tank on the regulators
Nvrmind
9:02 not to be a Debbie downer but these joints would never pass a med gas cert test. In a med gas test you would need to get a 100% cup fill and pass a stress test. You would have to heat the whole joint from front to back a little more.
Don you think MAPP gas would be hot enough to braze?
MAPP gas would only work on very small lines, anything above 3/8" would not no be able to get hot enough.
Mapp gas. We braze up to 5/8 easily..
And 3/4 at a max generally.
Does help to have a heat shield
A before O or up u will go...
Excellent. Showed magnifying glass when he was referring to a mirror, but I'm not perfect yet either.
It was a mirror lol