Guys, I wasn’t following the manual correctly and I didn’t loosen off the water pump pulley before removing the alternator and belt. I’ve tried the 2 spanner trick but I’ve got one bolt left still tight. How did you remove that last one? Thanks
I can’t even begin to tell you how helpful this video was! Was able to get my timing job sorted in a day thanks to you guys! 🤘🏻 I was NOT prepared for how much strength it was gonna take to tighten the crank bolt though! You guys made that extra 90 look easy. Time for a bigger breaker bar 😂
No option to remove starter motor from underneath? Ive done loads if these timing belts in Focus and Fiesta but none of them have been turbo, ive always managed to get starter out from underneath to lock the flywheel. Good video btw. 😊
How to stop it from moving? You leave all the locking tools in while you do that mate. So the cam shaft locks, the crank locking bolt and the fly wheel locking tool all stay in place. This stops the crank rotating while you torque the crank shaft pulley bolt.
Low KM engine that didn’t even need a timing belt, car was flood damaged and water line came up to crank seal and damaged it causing it to leak. No point in wasting money on a water pump when it was such a low KM engine 60,000km (37,000 miles)
Car ran fine. I won the sprint series with it. Tracked it for 18 months after doing the belt.and have since sold the car but it's still working fine This video was uploaded on my other channel but I decided to only run one channel, I made this video in 2022 so the upload date here is a bit off
Thx for the vid. Regarding the axle shaft bracket, that one bolt by the CV joint is tough. I see you guys managed to slide the axle outboard a few inches. Did you have to loosen the suspension at all? I'm stuck trying to get that bolt out. Ford says "may have to rotate the axle" which just isn't working.
Ok, just took another stab at it and figured it out. :) The bolt behind the CV doesn't need to be removed, just loosened because the bracket is SLOTTED. At first I was upset at those Ford engineers, but this worked out pretty well in the end. I wish there was a notation about that in the shop manual.
I had to get it from a Ford repairer mate and I could only get it because it was my brothers shop. I would think you would be able to find it online if you searched hard though mate
@@Simonstockton82 I was going to mention, did you put the crank locking pin back in after rotating the crank 1& 3/4 times, so that you were checking the timing of the cams against TDC again. That's what the manual says to do to verify timing but l didn't see it in the video.
My first point of investigation would be coils and plugs as they are the easiest to get to, after that I would check the timing again but I’m leaning towards the timing not being set properly mate
@robertmoore1132 fair point, check the CPS connections and all other electrical connections. Did you rotate the crank after without the locking tools to make sure belt didn’t slip?
Guys, I wasn’t following the manual correctly and I didn’t loosen off the water pump pulley before removing the alternator and belt. I’ve tried the 2 spanner trick but I’ve got one bolt left still tight. How did you remove that last one? Thanks
I can’t even begin to tell you how helpful this video was! Was able to get my timing job sorted in a day thanks to you guys! 🤘🏻
I was NOT prepared for how much strength it was gonna take to tighten the crank bolt though! You guys made that extra 90 look easy. Time for a bigger breaker bar 😂
Thank you so much mate I love getting comments like this, makes it all worth while!
No option to remove starter motor from underneath? Ive done loads if these timing belts in Focus and Fiesta but none of them have been turbo, ive always managed to get starter out from underneath to lock the flywheel. Good video btw. 😊
Maybe but it's super super tight. It's just easier to remove the intake
I'm wondering when you tighten the crank shaft pulley bolt how to stop the crank shaft.
How to stop it from moving? You leave all the locking tools in while you do that mate.
So the cam shaft locks, the crank locking bolt and the fly wheel locking tool all stay in place. This stops the crank rotating while you torque the crank shaft pulley bolt.
Why did you not fit a water pump why it was striped down just seems a bit silly to me 😮
Low KM engine that didn’t even need a timing belt, car was flood damaged and water line came up to crank seal and damaged it causing it to leak.
No point in wasting money on a water pump when it was such a low KM engine 60,000km (37,000 miles)
So how has this job held up over the last year?
Car ran fine. I won the sprint series with it. Tracked it for 18 months after doing the belt.and have since sold the car but it's still working fine
This video was uploaded on my other channel but I decided to only run one channel, I made this video in 2022 so the upload date here is a bit off
Thx for the vid. Regarding the axle shaft bracket, that one bolt by the CV joint is tough. I see you guys managed to slide the axle outboard a few inches. Did you have to loosen the suspension at all? I'm stuck trying to get that bolt out. Ford says "may have to rotate the axle" which just isn't working.
Ok, just took another stab at it and figured it out. :) The bolt behind the CV doesn't need to be removed, just loosened because the bracket is SLOTTED. At first I was upset at those Ford engineers, but this worked out pretty well in the end. I wish there was a notation about that in the shop manual.
All good my man
All that work and you didn't do the water pump... 😳
60’000km engine only just broken in. Only changed the belt cause I had to remove it to change the crank shaft oil seal after flood damage
@@Simonstockton82 still worth doing as they have a plastic turbine.. not a good design at all IMO
Do you have a copy of the full workshop manual? Been trying to find one for ages
No mate it’s too big I only downloaded the bits just needed
Where can i find it?
I had to get it from a Ford repairer mate and I could only get it because it was my brothers shop. I would think you would be able to find it online if you searched hard though mate
How long would you say the job would take you?
4-7 hours depending on experience
@@Simonstockton82 I was going to mention, did you put the crank locking pin back in after rotating the crank 1& 3/4 times, so that you were checking the timing of the cams against TDC again. That's what the manual says to do to verify timing but l didn't see it in the video.
I followed this step by step and now have a miss fire on 1 and 4 - any suggestions ?
My first point of investigation would be coils and plugs as they are the easiest to get to, after that I would check the timing again but I’m leaning towards the timing not being set properly mate
@Simonstockton82 mechanical or eletrical ? I leaning to electrical as with the crank locked at TDC the timing tool fitted perfectly !
@robertmoore1132 fair point, check the CPS connections and all other electrical connections.
Did you rotate the crank after without the locking tools to make sure belt didn’t slip?
@Simonstockton82 yes, I roated about 4 times and a seccond person roated twice, after which the timing tools re inserted without issue
Well I would deffo say it’s something electrical mate. Just go back over everything you touched.