I work for Ford and do a lot of heavy line jobs like this, and there's very little to complain about. There were a couple of small things, but its pretty close to having a dealer do it. The red rtv you used is fine. I believe Ford recommends a different brand. Its high temp rtv. In the future, when you are trying to remove old gasket material, you can get spray on remover that you just let sit for 10 to 15 minutes, and wipe it off with a rag. It works a lot better than you might think. I didn't use if for years because I thought it wouldn't be any good, but now I use it every time. It smells like oranges. That's how you know its the right stuff.
I am finding this series of videos really interesting. Takes me back to when I rebuilt a mk 1 1500 cc Ford Cortina engine. My only error was to forget to lubricate the crankshaft oil seal which was damaged due to friction when I first started the engine and subsequently leaked.
With the timing cover, that small o ring gasket with the little rubber bit comming off at and angle, you should have used the updated seal and siliconed off the part where the gasket goes up. It’s a ford procedure. And also you should of used the primer first wait for it to dry then apply the sealant
It's probably too late for you to see this, but with that dirt and rust in the water jacket, my dad has taught me to use caustic drain cleaner. Does a brilliant job.
Defo one of your best videos so far! Awesome work and great job getting into all the details. You deserve way more subscribers, and if you keep on doing your thing I'm sure you will get to that point! Great stuff ;)
Absolutely loving this series of videos, the presentation and explanation. Look forward to watching further updates on the EcoBoost rebuild and your plans for the Mk7.5
I’ve done 2 timing belts now I’m a diesel mechanic and this was new to me I found with a scary problem on my first belt change that everything on the crank had to dry and as you said 300 NM and 90 degrees not a fan
I have had better lawnmowers , in this case it’s my wife’s lawn mower/ kiddycarrier, and it will not get too much of a hard life ( but the belt in the hot oil will still suffer .
I find this so interesting, and making me more confident to possibly do an engine rebuild for my 1.6 ST in the future, love that car. Keep it up! (missed ya at Ford Fair ): )
With mechanical lock-down tensioners, I always adjust and lock down tensioner with rotating load on timing belt. This way, tensioned side of belt has slack taken out of it. This was pretty standard protocol on older engines.
Brilliant video , I didn't notice if you changed the oil pump belt , The main issue with this engine is the rubber particles off both belts blocking the oil pump
Just subscribed, love your content I really appreciate the amount of effort you are putting into this engine build. If I had you rebuilding one of my engines I would be well confident and relaxed because I can see how professional you are working on this project. You can clearly see in your attitude the high amount of sufficiency and self confidence well done to you! Keep making content 🙌🏻 Gaz from Newport south wales 👍🏻
I have a 7 year old 1 Litre ecoboost with 33K , when should I sell it to avoid all this or it failing with oil starvation due to belt deterioration ? ( I know I should never have bought it , it’s not even fuel efficient . )
I would have replaced that rear crank seal anyway regardless if I had picked at rubber seal or not. Kuga diesel 2 litre uses a similar arrangement, slightly different in the case that the rear crank bearing cap has 2 stick like rubber seals in it. It also is sealing against the sump/crankcase assembly and leaks with high millage.
Yep, every time I run ours I expect to hear/ see the signs of the oil being blocked by belt debris ( and it’s only 33K , but 7 years old ) If there was a chain retrofit , I might get that done ( but probably just sell it and save me the grief, it’s a pile of crap .
when torquing head stud you said you were having issues with the angle guage,could i do one bolt torqued to spec and use the angle gauge then use my torque wrench to see what that final torque is on that one stud and then use that torque number on the rest of the bolts so i dont need to use angle guage again? since it was being difficult on certain bolts would this method be more precise?
Hi When you tightened the bolt you removed the the pin in the pulley but did you remove the pin that screws in the back of the block to the crank And also how did you get the print out information Lads car needs done 😬 Cheers
I can't thank you enough for this series! It is helping me so much with my project with the same engine. Do you know whether they have discontinued that crank pulley friction washer? I'm pretty sure one didn't come off when I removed stuff, and I can't seem to find one on any parts site anywhere!
Hello mate thank you for the video and I we'd like to ask you about the belt for timing there is two of them one is16mm and the author one is 18mm what is the difference? please
No he doesn't at this point in the build. Because he will put the oil pan on afterwards, the RTV sealant on the oil pan face will seal the lower edge of the rear oil seal plate.
hello super video you are the best can you please tell me the tightening torque of the damper pulley screw the one you tighten with the large torque wrench the tightening steps thank you very much
Nice job mate can you help me P2307 Ignition coil C, primary circuit - circuit high P2308 Ignition coil B primary circuit - circuit high I fitted all new spark plugs and 2 new coils car is still the same misfiring bad do u think it might be bad camshaft sensor fault u can start the car a rev it lightly let the pedal go engine cuts out thanks
At the minute 20:00. What about those two ronda tools that you instaled. I have the same set but i dont find a logic way to set them UP. Does any body know how to use them? Is there any video to consult?
Great Work! Binch watch the playlist of this rebuild, awesome! I'm Like you ... just go for it! even if you really don't know how! to the "purists" ... how did you get to become one? You have to practice, to be a better mechanic! Looking forward to the next video!
Its not that difficult. The one thing Ford does well is produce very thorough procedures. If you had to do this job, get the workshop manual from Ford, and follow the procedure step by step. They tell you every single thing you need to do, to the letter. Nothing is left out. If you do everything they tell you, the job should come out exactly the same as a dealership would do it. Or get an entry level job at Ford. They're desperate for help. If you apply yourself and show promise, I guarantee that you can get a short block job like the one in this video sometime within your first year. You may have to split the labor with someone like me who does them all the time, but it will be your job and the other tech will be there to make sure you don't make any big mistakes and do damage. After the first one, you probably will be left to do the next one your self, and keep all the labor.
Hi great video just one question it says in the Haynes manual that the timing belt cover has torque angle bolts which are to be replaced with new ones Like you would with stretch head bolts did you replace yours or do you even need too?
You're supposed to replace them. All torque to yield bolts are one time use. That said, I see people re-use them all the time. If its your car, and all the money to fix it is coming out of your pocket, sometime decisions are made to not follow the manual to the letter. But if a dealer does the job, you get new bolts. It comes with the job.
Watching it because I expect ours to fail, so I will sell that , or to get ahead of a failure see how much a garage will have IF I paid to get this done .
I may have missed it, what year is this 1.0 ? My 2018 is starting to consume or leak coolant (no leak visible). Im afraid it's the head gasket, from those grooves in between the cylinders.
2014 bud. Might be worth getting a compression test and/or cylinder leakage test done. As far as I know Ford revised some of the issues surrounding the overheating issues. Mine only went because the crash broke part of the cooling system and I assume the car was driven without coolant
@@MendItModIt heck yeah! I've got mine tore apart like a dad gum shade tree mechanic. Your video has been crucial to my efforts in replacing my head gasket. Thank you!
Hey friend.. please please help me .. I neee to know where can i get all the kit for repair... All gaskets and belts.. i am un méxico But can get all the parts un Texas Us.
If you are just talking about the TTY part, you can use a protractor and mark the bolt heads and the head. As long as you turn the bolt the proper amount, that's all that matters. Its nice to have a torque wrench that does angles, but with a little patience, you can still get the job done.
The manual says to remove the pin after 75Nm, that bolt gets torqued to over 300Nm, if the pulley spins at that kinda of torque that tiny pin isn’t going to stop it 😂
@@MendItModIt That makes sense, i would be worried it will spin. :/ if thats what the manual says then ill remove it. Great info btw. I am doing a head gasket and new belts ect... I havnt found a video as good as yours and ive looked at every single video on youtube on this. What a pain to work on these things... I just followed you on Insta. Keep up the great content!
@@BriggsGuy54 Haynes manual says 25Nm, then 75Nm, then remove the pin, 300Nm then 90°. At least from memory that’s what it says but highly recommend getting the Haynes manual. The friction washer is meant to help stop the pulley spinning. I’d also make sure the mating surfaces on the crank and pulley are clean and free of oil. Good luck dude
Failed. Tried to tighten the crank pulley bolt (brand new) to 300 N*m and then to extra 90 degrees - 300 N*m part went well, but 90 degree part broke the pin's hole aluminum casting on the side cover and the pulley shifted about 20 degrees. Now thinking what I can do... Need to hold the pulley in the correct position somehow, and re-tighten the bolt again... Any Ideas?
You are supposed to remove that pin after the the first two stages (25Nm and 75Nm from memory) then do the 300Nm. Even so the crank pulley shouldn’t move once it’s up to 300Nm 😵💫 did you fit the friction washer? And did you make sure the end of the crank and the back of the pulley were completely clean?
@@LiterallyJesusChrist I think the oil itself does play a part, but hydrocarbons build up in the oil as a result of combustion which degrade the belt. I would only ever use the manufacturer recommended oil on these engines but I would say not changing it regularly enough is probably the main culprit.
@@LiterallyJesusChrist Use of the proper oil and regular oil changes essential to these engines, low sap oil, i change the oil at around 9k, never had any issues on an 8 year old 1.0 Ecoboost.
I have a problem with my C max. I had the wrong oil in my car and the timing belt was worn off. I have replaced the timing belt but my engine runs rough. Computer shows: Cylinder 3 misfiring P030092 code. can you please help me
I’d try swapping the spark plug from that cylinder to another, clear the code and see if the misfire follows the plug. If not try the same thing with the coil. If not that maybe try the same with the injector.
Will you give us a full breakdown of the cost of everything you had to buy to do this job. It would be nice to compare a garage price (circa £1000) to what you spent to do it (let's assume you didn't remove the engine,so no engine lift or engine stand).
The diagram to right at 18.09 or so is not correct in that direction of view. The two bolt holes shown adjacent to arrow location B do not exist on the 1.0 Ecoboost engine. Likewise no sealant is required along the engine block face at B because it doesn't mate with anything! The face shown is actually on the sump when already assembled to the block.
It says in the description above it “and a 4mm run of sealant along the sump (B)” so it is correct if the sump is already bolted on. That face is the top edge of the sump. Granted the image could be clearer but it is right. The holes will be for the sump too 👍🏻
I hope your engine is still ok. I'm currently re-assembling mine. Replaced the cylinder head because it had an internal crack, letting coolant through to the exhaust manifold!. Replacing the cambelt again as it had already started to deteriorate after less than one year/less than 5k miles. Worst engine I've ever worked on. You've made some great videos, I'm sure they will help many people.
@@raycrook4525 oh no! I was worried that had happened to mine when I got white smoke on start up but luckily it was just water sitting in the exhaust and burnt off pretty quick. That’s mad the belt started to go that quickly, you clearly know what you’re doing so I’m guessing you used the correct grade of oil for the wet belt? It shouldn’t deteriorate that quickly if the correct oil is used though 😨 what brand was the new belt? Thank you mate 🙏🏻
@@MendItModIt I used a Dayco belt (supposedly same as made for Ford) and Petronas Syntium 5000FR 5W20 (WSS-M2C948-B). I had assumed it was the head gasket, did all the work to replace it, only to find that it was cracked. I rigged up my own water pressure test at home to confirm it and used the same test to check the replacement head is ok.
I work for Ford and do a lot of heavy line jobs like this, and there's very little to complain about. There were a couple of small things, but its pretty close to having a dealer do it. The red rtv you used is fine. I believe Ford recommends a different brand. Its high temp rtv. In the future, when you are trying to remove old gasket material, you can get spray on remover that you just let sit for 10 to 15 minutes, and wipe it off with a rag. It works a lot better than you might think. I didn't use if for years because I thought it wouldn't be any good, but now I use it every time. It smells like oranges. That's how you know its the right stuff.
What a fantastic series of videos mate, really well explained and just so good to watch, credit to you for taking it on, it genuinely looks brand new!
I am finding this series of videos really interesting. Takes me back to when I rebuilt a mk 1 1500 cc Ford Cortina engine. My only error was to forget to lubricate the crankshaft oil seal which was damaged due to friction when I first started the engine and subsequently leaked.
With the timing cover, that small o ring gasket with the little rubber bit comming off at and angle, you should have used the updated seal and siliconed off the part where the gasket goes up. It’s a ford procedure. And also you should of used the primer first wait for it to dry then apply the sealant
This is appropriate as yesterday the news said Ford is discontinuing the Fiesta after 48 years. good video well put together
It's probably too late for you to see this, but with that dirt and rust in the water jacket, my dad has taught me to use caustic drain cleaner. Does a brilliant job.
Always good info for next time, thank you 🙏🏻
Defo one of your best videos so far! Awesome work and great job getting into all the details. You deserve way more subscribers, and if you keep on doing your thing I'm sure you will get to that point! Great stuff ;)
Such a fascinating piece of work sir. What a great job you did on this rebuild.
Absolutely loving this series of videos, the presentation and explanation. Look forward to watching further updates on the EcoBoost rebuild and your plans for the Mk7.5
Happy days matey glad your getting further with it and doing well buddy
I’ve done 2 timing belts now I’m a diesel mechanic and this was new to me I found with a scary problem on my first belt change that everything on the crank had to dry and as you said 300 NM and 90 degrees not a fan
That's a cute lawn mower!
I have had better lawnmowers , in this case it’s my wife’s lawn mower/ kiddycarrier, and it will not get too much of a hard life ( but the belt in the hot oil will still suffer .
You are the world champion. The movie is wonderful. Greetings .
Thoroughly enjoyed your vids. Was a joy to watch can't wait to see the car finished.
I find this so interesting, and making me more confident to possibly do an engine rebuild for my 1.6 ST in the future, love that car. Keep it up! (missed ya at Ford Fair ): )
With mechanical lock-down tensioners, I always adjust and lock down tensioner with rotating load on timing belt. This way, tensioned side of belt has slack taken out of it. This was pretty standard protocol on older engines.
Well done Mike deffo got my fingers crossed for you buddy
Brilliant video ,
I didn't notice if you changed the oil pump belt ,
The main issue with this engine is the rubber particles off both belts blocking the oil pump
Yeah I changed the belt and checked the pickup was clear. Might have been in a previous video, I can’t remember 😂
Great work Mike! Really detailed videos and it’s great how this is a DIY car channel!
That's great! Thanks for the education bossman.
Just subscribed, love your content I really appreciate the amount of effort you are putting into this engine build. If I had you rebuilding one of my engines I would be well confident and relaxed because I can see how professional you are working on this project. You can clearly see in your attitude the high amount of sufficiency and self confidence well done to you! Keep making content 🙌🏻 Gaz from Newport south wales 👍🏻
Unreal set of videos mate, very informative
Can use tipex on bolts heads instead of a gauge
That wat I do 👍
Almost there! Can’t wait until the next video 😁
Did you check the valve clearances ?
great work, video clear and precise love it.
Bravo meserie forța spor la treaba
I have a 7 year old 1 Litre ecoboost with 33K , when should I sell it to avoid all this or it failing with oil starvation due to belt deterioration ?
( I know I should never have bought it , it’s not even fuel efficient . )
I would have replaced that rear crank seal anyway regardless if I had picked at rubber seal or not. Kuga diesel 2 litre uses a similar arrangement, slightly different in the case that the rear crank bearing cap has 2 stick like rubber seals in it. It also is sealing against the sump/crankcase assembly and leaks with high millage.
Been waiting for this video. Best video so far 👍
The workshop manual should say whether to lubricate the bolts or not. It's easy to strip lubricated threads if they're designed to be torqued dry.
Hylomer is a fantastic spray to coat the head gasket ,
Machine shop advised you to sand down carbon AFTER checking flatness? Incorrect. The carbon deposits will cause premature leaking.
great video waiting for part 6
First I though the flywheel lock will break, how come did it survive and held?
Hey man,
Really enjoyed the series. Engine looks good. Kinda jealous my EcoBoost engine isn’t that clean 😂
That engine look like pick up on the rings have you pop piston out to check
Great job as usual
As far a gasket sealants
"The Right Stuff " by permatex, is probably one of the best at $35 tube
Great work!
Have 1.0 ecoboost have block issues
Someone should make a timing chain retrofit kit.
Yep, every time I run ours I expect to hear/ see the signs of the oil being blocked by belt debris ( and it’s only 33K , but 7 years old )
If there was a chain retrofit , I might get that done ( but probably just sell it and save me the grief, it’s a pile of crap .
when torquing head stud you said you were having issues with the angle guage,could i do one bolt torqued to spec and use the angle gauge then use my torque wrench to see what that final torque is on that one stud and then use that torque number on the rest of the bolts so i dont need to use angle guage again? since it was being difficult on certain bolts would this method be more precise?
Hi
When you tightened the bolt you removed the the pin in the pulley but did you remove the pin that screws in the back of the block to the crank
And also how did you get the print out information
Lads car needs done 😬
Cheers
I can't thank you enough for this series! It is helping me so much with my project with the same engine. Do you know whether they have discontinued that crank pulley friction washer? I'm pretty sure one didn't come off when I removed stuff, and I can't seem to find one on any parts site anywhere!
The washer isn’t fitted from factory, it’s just used when reinstalling the crank pulley. Try a Ford main dealer, they should still make them
Good stuff.
Hello mate thank you for the video and I we'd like to ask you about the belt for timing there is two of them one is16mm and the author one is 18mm what is the difference? please
Should there not have been sealant along the bottom edge of that crank seal plate? There’s nothing sealing between the sump flange and seal housing?
No he doesn't at this point in the build. Because he will put the oil pan on afterwards, the RTV sealant on the oil pan face will seal the lower edge of the rear oil seal plate.
One good way and sure job of making sure your head mating surfaces are flat is to use a stone
Dayco is a good brand
hello super video you are the best can you please tell me the tightening torque of the damper pulley screw the one you tighten with the large torque wrench the tightening steps thank you very much
Have you got the part number for that seal that goes inside the timing cover please?
Like the video i am.. installing TIMING on
Did you also use a primer recommended by Ford before applying this silicone?
Not aware of one no
Ace job looking good, as you seem to find out the OEM for the Ford parts you dont happen to know who makes the knock sensor ?
I believe they use Nippon Denso.
U r doing it right
Hi !can you tell me about the timing phacer when replace the camshaft torque specs. In the bl
Nice job mate can you help me
P2307 Ignition coil C, primary circuit - circuit high
P2308 Ignition coil B primary circuit - circuit high
I fitted all new spark plugs and 2 new coils car is still the same misfiring bad do u think it might be bad camshaft sensor fault u can start the car a rev it lightly let the pedal go engine cuts out thanks
What about the balance shaft position?
need the camshaft pulley bolt torque settings..? please
Do you have a photo with istruction For the timing? Thanks
Good
At the minute 20:00. What about those two ronda tools that you instaled. I have the same set but i dont find a logic way to set them UP. Does any body know how to use them? Is there any video to consult?
Does the Haynes manual give torque setting for main bearings and conrods?
It will do yeah, it had pretty much everything you could need, well worth getting
Haynes Ford Focus, available, would you know please?, Thanks
Great Work! Binch watch the playlist of this rebuild, awesome! I'm Like you ... just go for it! even if you really don't know how! to the "purists" ... how did you get to become one? You have to practice, to be a better mechanic!
Looking forward to the next video!
Its not that difficult. The one thing Ford does well is produce very thorough procedures. If you had to do this job, get the workshop manual from Ford, and follow the procedure step by step. They tell you every single thing you need to do, to the letter. Nothing is left out. If you do everything they tell you, the job should come out exactly the same as a dealership would do it.
Or get an entry level job at Ford. They're desperate for help. If you apply yourself and show promise, I guarantee that you can get a short block job like the one in this video sometime within your first year. You may have to split the labor with someone like me who does them all the time, but it will be your job and the other tech will be there to make sure you don't make any big mistakes and do damage. After the first one, you probably will be left to do the next one your self, and keep all the labor.
Hi great video just one question it says in the Haynes manual that the timing belt cover has torque angle bolts which are to be replaced with new ones
Like you would with stretch head bolts did you replace yours or do you even need too?
You're supposed to replace them. All torque to yield bolts are one time use. That said, I see people re-use them all the time. If its your car, and all the money to fix it is coming out of your pocket, sometime decisions are made to not follow the manual to the letter. But if a dealer does the job, you get new bolts. It comes with the job.
Watching it because I expect ours to fail, so I will sell that , or to get ahead of a failure see how much a garage will have IF I paid to get this done .
I may have missed it, what year is this 1.0 ? My 2018 is starting to consume or leak coolant (no leak visible). Im afraid it's the head gasket, from those grooves in between the cylinders.
2014 bud. Might be worth getting a compression test and/or cylinder leakage test done. As far as I know Ford revised some of the issues surrounding the overheating issues. Mine only went because the crash broke part of the cooling system and I assume the car was driven without coolant
@@MendItModIt Appreciate the advise!
i loose the time, do u have a photo or diagram how it goes?
Did you have any issues with the crank bolt or pulley slipping?
I didn’t, the friction washer is supposed to stop that from happening and it did the trick
@@MendItModIt heck yeah! I've got mine tore apart like a dad gum shade tree mechanic. Your video has been crucial to my efforts in replacing my head gasket.
Thank you!
請問一下 凸輪調節輪 外面的記號點要對準哪裡？
Hey friend.. please please help me .. I neee to know where can i get all the kit for repair... All gaskets and belts.. i am un méxico But can get all the parts un Texas Us.
Good work
Hi, great work man. When is part 6 coming?
Permeatex is good stuff.
Did it not spring back when u removed the timing tools
Did what not spring back sorry?
Great series of videos, just a question though, what is the size of the tool used for the cylinder head bolts?
If you are just talking about the TTY part, you can use a protractor and mark the bolt heads and the head. As long as you turn the bolt the proper amount, that's all that matters. Its nice to have a torque wrench that does angles, but with a little patience, you can still get the job done.
Can you explain at the 19:55 timing variable please
I wouldnt renove that alignment tool on the crank pulley, if the pulley spins when youre torqing it up it wont run...
The manual says to remove the pin after 75Nm, that bolt gets torqued to over 300Nm, if the pulley spins at that kinda of torque that tiny pin isn’t going to stop it 😂
@@MendItModIt That makes sense, i would be worried it will spin. :/ if thats what the manual says then ill remove it.
Great info btw. I am doing a head gasket and new belts ect... I havnt found a video as good as yours and ive looked at every single video on youtube on this. What a pain to work on these things...
I just followed you on Insta. Keep up the great content!
@@BriggsGuy54 Haynes manual says 25Nm, then 75Nm, then remove the pin, 300Nm then 90°. At least from memory that’s what it says but highly recommend getting the Haynes manual. The friction washer is meant to help stop the pulley spinning. I’d also make sure the mating surfaces on the crank and pulley are clean and free of oil. Good luck dude
Are you a mechanic ? Find it crazy how some people know how to re build an engine by themselves
Failed. Tried to tighten the crank pulley bolt (brand new) to 300 N*m and then to extra 90 degrees - 300 N*m part went well, but 90 degree part broke the pin's hole aluminum casting on the side cover and the pulley shifted about 20 degrees. Now thinking what I can do... Need to hold the pulley in the correct position somehow, and re-tighten the bolt again... Any Ideas?
You are supposed to remove that pin after the the first two stages (25Nm and 75Nm from memory) then do the 300Nm. Even so the crank pulley shouldn’t move once it’s up to 300Nm 😵💫 did you fit the friction washer? And did you make sure the end of the crank and the back of the pulley were completely clean?
I hope that timing belt doesn't suffer the same short lifespan the OEM were known for in the 1.0 Ecoboost.
It won’t bro, I’ll change the oil as per the manufacturer’s guidelines and it’ll last ad long as it’s supposed to 👍🏻
@@MendItModIt Is wrong oil viscosity the reason so many of them are failing so early?
@@LiterallyJesusChrist I think the oil itself does play a part, but hydrocarbons build up in the oil as a result of combustion which degrade the belt. I would only ever use the manufacturer recommended oil on these engines but I would say not changing it regularly enough is probably the main culprit.
@@LiterallyJesusChrist Use of the proper oil and regular oil changes essential to these engines, low sap oil, i change the oil at around 9k, never had any issues on an 8 year old 1.0 Ecoboost.
On Those end caps u should not use that much sealant, it will risk going in those oil chanels and clogging them.
Anaerobic sealant is better.
I have a problem with my C max. I had the wrong oil in my car and the timing belt was worn off. I have replaced the timing belt but my engine runs rough. Computer shows: Cylinder 3 misfiring P030092 code. can you please help me
I’d try swapping the spark plug from that cylinder to another, clear the code and see if the misfire follows the plug. If not try the same thing with the coil. If not that maybe try the same with the injector.
Leaving the engine in the car would have been the best way to remove the bolt too. 🙂
Need 2 buy TIMING tool kit
Are you saying you need a link to the one I used?
300Nm and then 90 deg ???
VeRy EaSy ToO dO
brawo aus deutschland
Did you put cam belt on back to front? Writing should face you
No mention of orientation in the manual so it mustn’t matter on these engines 👍🏻
👏👏👏
Will you give us a full breakdown of the cost of everything you had to buy to do this job.
It would be nice to compare a garage price (circa £1000) to what you spent to do it (let's assume you didn't remove the engine,so no engine lift or engine stand).
Actual garage cost including the lower belt that drives the oil pump is £1400+
🎉
Sweeeeeet
I'm attempting wish me luck
He’s put the wrong seal on the water pump outlet.
There’s is a tsb about that seal rotting out due to oil and dirt contamination
A link to the updated seal would be helpful if you’ve got one pal 👍🏻
@@MendItModIt Ford tsb 15 1070 and there is a modified cover 2300737.
The garage I work in do that repair every few weeks.
The diagram to right at 18.09 or so is not correct in that direction of view. The two bolt holes shown adjacent to arrow location B do not exist on the 1.0 Ecoboost engine. Likewise no sealant is required along the engine block face at B because it doesn't mate with anything! The face shown is actually on the sump when already assembled to the block.
It says in the description above it “and a 4mm run of sealant along the sump (B)” so it is correct if the sump is already bolted on. That face is the top edge of the sump. Granted the image could be clearer but it is right. The holes will be for the sump too 👍🏻
I hope your engine is still ok. I'm currently re-assembling mine. Replaced the cylinder head because it had an internal crack, letting coolant through to the exhaust manifold!. Replacing the cambelt again as it had already started to deteriorate after less than one year/less than 5k miles. Worst engine I've ever worked on. You've made some great videos, I'm sure they will help many people.
@@raycrook4525 oh no! I was worried that had happened to mine when I got white smoke on start up but luckily it was just water sitting in the exhaust and burnt off pretty quick. That’s mad the belt started to go that quickly, you clearly know what you’re doing so I’m guessing you used the correct grade of oil for the wet belt? It shouldn’t deteriorate that quickly if the correct oil is used though 😨 what brand was the new belt? Thank you mate 🙏🏻
@@MendItModIt I used a Dayco belt (supposedly same as made for Ford) and Petronas Syntium 5000FR 5W20 (WSS-M2C948-B). I had assumed it was the head gasket, did all the work to replace it, only to find that it was cracked. I rigged up my own water pressure test at home to confirm it and used the same test to check the replacement head is ok.
Was wondering if they ever fired the engineer who invented this engine, absolutely disgusting idea of a wet belt
Thus very poor how can you do timing in fast forward how can we see it
I’m not sure what you mean