Let me tell you something I’ve installed for a living for many years,. This video is Bar-none the very best video I’ve ever seen on an install. You hit every single major point of installation you didn’t take four hours to do videotape -literally what you did & showed -was all spot on. And the phrase you want to remember is for a given load, voltage and current are inversely proportional. The only thing I want to add is that using the correct type of heat shrink should have adhesive in it so that when you heat it up, both ends of the heat shrink, you’re putting a coating that comes out both ends to make it watertight so you get no corrosion at your union. It also adds rigidity and will wiring will vibrate a ton less. That makes the connection last forever. Second if you use tinned connectors on your wire ends, you’ll save yourself some corrosion on those connectors. Usually bare copper can start turning green from moisture, depending upon where you live. Those are just a couple of dumb things to throw out there. It’s just you did such an excellent job up in your install, it’s an easy thing to add and will up your game -is really easy spending a few more bucks on the connectors and maybe some better heat shrink.
Look GREAT!!! You mentioned a future 12v lithium battery, I would be a little hesitant to do it personally, as you probably know, you cant charge them in the cold and they tend to have a lot lower CCA if you need to crank a genset ect. Also this is normally your "breakaway cable" battery for your trailer brakes, and probably also has a +12vdc wire directly to the 7-blade connector which connects to your truck battery (will normally trickle charge from the truck). LifePO4 have a LOT less resistance so it would probably blow the truck fuse when you plugged in. I would personally install a new trailer breakaway kit that comes with a little battery and rewire it to use that instead. It can totally be done of course, I have a Victron Orion 24v-12v/70amp converter that is AMAZING, highly recommend, runs basically everything in an RV. I just wanted to stress the point that these are complicated systems and it is easy to overlook something. I have been learning about this stuff a lot as well, building my second system as we speak, feel free to reach out to me anytime! edit: Just watched more recent video, saw you added dual 24v-12v converters, posted a comment at that video!
NFPA 1192 Standard on Recreational Vehicles is required to be followed by RVIA, as references to this code NFPA 58 Liquified Petroleum Gas and NFPA 70 National Electrical Code are included. There are a number of additional codes, standards, etc that are also referenced.
The RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) requires that all manufacturers displaying the RVIA tag comply with NFPA 1192, which is basically electrical code for RVs.(Individuals aren’t RVIA) And because state and local jurisdictions don’t have a specific code countermanding RV electrical code, then the NFPA Code supersedes anything you may find in NFPA 70 or even a local AHJ. That is, a local Authority Having Jurisdiction can’t make you rewire the internal wiring of your RV as long as it was built to comply with NFPA 1192 in its year of manufacture.
You are a breath of resh air , I have watched 100's of videos on Victron companenets trying to understand what I am going to get built, you dont cause overload of too much information, therefore for a old grey nomad it is easier to take you - thanks. I am not into this subject like others just want to know what I am to put in for a totally off grid, 2000w solar array with a Genset Honda 2000w & options of 240 main power at times in a truck overlander -appreciated
Remember that according to code, the wires that you put the wire nuts on should been placed in a junction box. Additionally, as your RV appears to be a 5th wheel I would recommend that you get a Victron DC to DC charger. You can hook that into the 12 volt power from your truck to the 24 volt battery system to charge your 24 volt battery while your driving on the road.
… which code would that be? NEC doesn’t apply to RV’s and NFPA 70 doesn’t having any legal standing with RV’s. It’s probably a good idea to put it in a junction box but there’s no legal code requiring it. 12v charging and getting rid of the 12v battery all together it next on the list, then another 24v battery, then solar.
@saltytrips there actually are some code sections in NEC 70 that talk about mobile trailers, but there is also the RVIA code/standards. I'll check sections of NEC 70 later today.
@@leewhizhulbert9276 from my understanding they are basically guidelines, and carry no legal obligations for RV’s, could be wrong though. There’s also the NFPA 1194 standard but I believe it only applies to manufactures and camp grounds.
Great install. I put a lot into my solar batteries and inverter system. I did all 24 volt. It's 3200 watts solar and 4000 split phase low frequency sungold inverter and 3000 watt powmr inverter. 4 charge controllers 3 victron and 1 powmr. 2 ac chargers and one DC to DC victron charger. I'm a little over 21 kw of lifepo4 and 14 kw of Nissan leaf batteries at the moment lol. I'd love to have the courage to make videos like you have. Thanks to people like you making the videos I learned enough to build a system over the last couple years that will hopefully keep us from a monthly electric bill and continue to give us this freedom from the grid that we are enjoying so much. I put a 9000 BTU 38 seer mini split on our camper and it's by far the best decision as far as cooling and heating our holiday rambler. Thanks for making the videos and great job
That fuse might be a little small when the batteries are low if you are pulling a hard load . If the fuse is just there to protect the wire the largest fuse possible without being dangerous will create a less of a pinch point and make less of a drop in voltage during a surge. 200 amp fuse might work but it's most definitely a little small. Great video tho for sure
This is *exactly* what I was looking for! Thanks a million! But damn, running that 50A wire from the panel in the front back to the panel, etc. seems like the biggest PITA of the entire job!
That part was actually pretty easy. Glad you enjoyed it, we’ve made several upgrades and improvements since this video, theres a playlist on our channel page to follow the build 👍
I love victron charge controllers. When you get them be sure to oversize the charge controllers so that in winter time and the panels are stronger that you can get the extra charge the bigger controllers will allow. Also the also by oversizing the controllers they will last forever. Some people say its safe to over panel a system but its not good for dependability. A dc to dc victron charger is gonna help you a lot also. If you want super fast 120v charging add a 24 volt 50 amp powermax charger. They are a great addition to the 120v charging. Im a solar inverter battery fanatic and think you are doing great by the way
Great video. Im in the planning stage of upgrading our caravan with all Victron gear which i have had in previous campers. I love your easy going nature and easy to understand instructions. Even here down under i understand it is what YOU needed for you not what we should all be doing! Great work.. Thanks.
Nice system, I was wondering did you delete the original converter battery charger that came with the camper or did you keep it for charging those agm batteries? I have the 290RLS camper.
… kept the 12v system separate for now, I have plants for a separate 12v lithium, I would just run an Orion 24v to 12v but I don’t think it has enough amps for my jacks at full load.
I ordered an MP 24 volt 3000. It seems to make far more sense. More less heat, more efficient, smaller gauge wire, ability to add more solar panel to charge controller and probably safer setup.. 24/12 converter is the only disadvantage.
Being a newbie to this kind of stuff myself , you have saved me so much stress of deciding which system I need and how to do it . Thank you for this awesome information , I understand things much more clearly now .
Great video. Very informative. Quick question though. I’m gonna do the Multiplus 2 24vdc with the same battery you use, in my 2018 Forest River FR3 and will use a cabin on the rear passenger side for equipment and batteries. The original marine batteries are in a cabin right behind the passenger door. I’ll remove those batteries and put some terminal blocks in there for the positive wires and another for the negative wires. How am I gonna get to the lynx shunt that is in the new battery area almost 20ft away? Should I use a Smart Shunt instead and put it where the old batteries were in the front cabin on the neg terminal block? I don’t think I can use a Lynx Shunt because of its location with the Multiplus in the new rear bin. I also have to use an Orion 24-12vdc converter and run that under the rig to the old battery area to get 12vdc to the rig’s 12 volt appliances. Any help or ideas are appreciated!
You want to keep the shunt as close to the battery as possible, sounds like you already have it planned out. When you make your run to the 12v block make sure you’re using appropriate wire size. 👍
Thanks! One more quick question. I purchased the same exact battery you used and was hoping to get all the settings for the multiplus when you connected it to your Mac. Any way to get the rest of the settings? I saw that you set it for 40 amps but that was all you showed in the video. I haven’t looked through all the comments yet but if you could post all the settings that would be awesome!!!
I have a Montana and I was thinking about doing the same layout as yours. Do you think you can place a second 24v battery in front. I cant tell from the video. Thank you for the quick response.
… funny you should ask that, i just partnered up with Li Time and the sent me a second 24v 200ah battery. I’ll be doing an install video soon. Its like a 1/2 inch shy of fitting with the 12v AGM batteries in there. Im going to be removing them and installing two Orion 24/12 70 in parallel to run all 12v systems. Im sure the Montana has a bit more room than the Cougar.
I have a question, when you plug in your 7 pin to your tow vehicle woldnt that cause a problem since the tow vehicle battery is 12? Thank you for your time and consideration.
Thanks for the video! Trying to check some of your numbers to make sure I understand things right. You mention at 24v for 3000w inverter you're pushing 187 amps? Shouldn't that be 3000w / 24v = 125 amps. Technically I think it's more like 25.6v which would give you just over 117 amps. Is that correct? Considering a 24v setup similar to this for my sailboat :) Just making sure I'm not missing anything.
You’re supposed to fuse at 1.25 x max load. Which should be 157 amps. I probably wasn’t wearing my glasses and thought the 5 was an 8 🤷♂️🤦♂️. I’m surprised i didn’t catch that.
@@saltytripsGot it. Now I'm tracking. Thanks for the clarification! Very nice setup you have there. I've been using Ampere Time / Li Time batteries for a while myself and have had no problems with them.
@@LakeSailor321 heres a link to a playlist of our upgrade and up dates to the system. ruclips.net/p/PLXL0DAEhCeew8ymmeXnQZbforpQDwK_e3&si=9HaBmbeWJT7RcbAC
Yes, it can add up but we wouldn’t be without it, we’ve expanded since this video, theres a playlist on our channel page if you care to follow the progress
I will still be installing a 12 volt system in my 1967 GM tdh-4519 city transit bus. The reason I wanted to comment is that you should have a fuse in-between the battery and the main switch, also that switch is redundant because the lynx shunt has one built in and controlled by the Cerbo GX and Bluetooth connect on your phone
Still have the stock 12v system and battery in place, next upgrade I will be adding another 24v batter and get rid of the 12v batter to be replaced with two Orion 24/12-70 in parallel, stay tuned.
Good vid... Question: If you have the 12V system grounded to the frame and also the 24V grounded to the frame, does that not create some kind of weird ground loops or anything? I have a trailer with 12V factory lights (each light is grounded to frame) but I am installing basically the same 24V setup you have. Does the Multiplus have a separate ground that goes to the frame? I saw someone else ground the Multiplus to an Orion 24/12 converter, but I have to research further on that.
I’m assuming your talking about the 120v to 12v converter to run the 12v accessories and charger the 12v battery. I have plans to get rid of the 12v batter all together and run 2 parallel Orion 24/12-70 to run the 12v systems off the 24v battery.
@@saltytrips I was like holy cow Victron is finally making a 240 volt North American U.S.A. inverter!!!! Then I looked up the schematic and my excitement died lol. Happy and sad all within 2 minutes. I get what you did now by looking at the electrical internals. Cool project and thanks for the quick response. Cheers
I actually only put a 150A fuse on the inverter, but have 200A fuses like you for the batteries. Given the inverter I don't think has reverse polarity protection etc (I could be wrong) I felt given my fuzzy brain it would be safer to go 50A lower. The most it's ever drawn even at 2400W it about 120A.
The rule of thumb is you should fuse at about 125% of max load. So if running at 100% max, if it was fused at 100% load then over time heat may make it blow on accident.
Hey Chris. I just watched a few more of your videos. They are incredibly informative! Thanks so much for the content, it saved me a ton of work and having to dig through manuals. I have one more question. I bought exactly the same battery (Li Time 24v 200ah) and was hoping that you wouldn’t mind posting the multiplus 2 settings you used when you hooked up your Mac? I saw you drop the charge current to 40 amps but you didn’t show any other settings. There will likely be others that purchase the same exact equipment since you recommended it and having the settings would be very awesome!!! Hello to a fellow Floridian by the way! The day I got the multiplus and related stuff it absolutely poured in Jax, we got stuck in the mud then we also found that the tire place that put our new tires on didn’t tighten the valve stems all the way and we ended up with two flat tires on the outside of our dualies! Go figure. It was a rough day 😂
Ugh rough day, thats RV life sometimes, I replied to your other comment but i’ll leave the setting here too. We recommend you set the bulk/absorption voltage as 28.8±0.4V. The float voltage should be 27.6V
Hey Chris. I bought the same crimper you have but it’s weird. If I use the 2/0 die set in the tool with a 2/0 cable and 2/0 lug, I can still pull the cable out of the lug pretty easily after crimping to the max. No matter how hard I crimp it ( the die bottoms out against the other die and never really finishes the crimp) and I can still pull the cable out! If I use the 1/0 die set with the 2/0 cable and 2/0 lug, I can crimp it perfectly. Do you have the same issue with your crimper? It’s almost like the 2/0 die set is just a little too big for 2/0 lugs and doesn’t crimp them completely.
@@richpetrelli2783 I’ve noticed quite a few people have had the same issue with several crimpers. If it’s not snug enough I do the same thing and go down one size too. Seems to be an issue for a lot of people.
Here are all the settings from Li Time support for 1 the 24v 230ah battery: Absorption Voltage: 28.8V Float Voltage: 27.6V Equalization Voltage: 28V Re-Bulk Voltage offset:0.10V Absorption Duration: (Adaptive/Fixed) Adaptive Maximum Absorption Time: 8h Tail Current: 4.6A（0.02*capacity） Equalization Current Percentage:10% Automatic Equalization: (Disabled / Equalize every ____ Days) Disabled Equalization stop mode: (Fixed Time / Automatic on Voltage) Fixed Time Maximum Equalization Duration:4h Temperature Compensation (mV/°C):-16.2 Low-Temperature Cutoff (optional): Disabled
This was very helpful Thank you. The only issue I had was I didn't realize all the extra cable that didn't come with the units. and i only have 1 100-amp hour batteries.
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Really helpful... though it's a shame they don't make something all in one box. The charger/solar charger/inverter etc. so all you do is connect the battery and solar.
@@lliaolsen728 a lot of companies do make them but the fact that Victron doesn’t is the best part because its expandable. You not stuck with what you started with, check out the rest of the victron build, we’ve gotten a lot bigger. ruclips.net/p/PLXL0DAEhCeew8ymmeXnQZbforpQDwK_e3&si=H6ajkJDFtkSqiM9U
so.. the only reason I saw was that you could have 1 battery you could barely move vs 4 batteries... that's not much of a reason. if that 1 battery has issues, that's a big expense, vs being able to swap out 1 of 4 batteries that develops an issue. plus, with 1 battery down, you still have 75% capacity vs 0% capacity when your one and only battery dies. you saw people want 24 volt systems but didn't go into the WHY of it.. slightly bigger wires? is that the big trouble people have with 12 volt systems after having their system for a while? that doesn't make any sense.
Less Amps, less heat, less wire, less batteries…. Eventually we will have four of these batteries as I upgrade to solar. 4 of these batteries is much easier and take up less space and weigh less than 16 12v. Even two of these batteries are way better than having 8 separate 12v. Not even close.
@@saltytrips and if you're still running 12v appliances, there's going to be a 5-10%+ efficiency loss, so you're losing capacity there. and then 24v appliances are going to be another expense, and tend to be more $, on average, than common 12v versions of the same things. it seems like a huge expense to change an existing system (something you say people want to do) to simply run smaller wires, where you already have wires that work perfectly well. what are the actual benefits? because replacing a whole electrical system just for smaller wires, with 10% conversion power loss to get back down to 12V to run lights etc.. just doesn't seem like a daily bonus. is it just that you like the system? that's fine.. but there's a difference between that and "you should spend $$$ because it's better because..." maybe I just misunderstood the point of the video. glad you like the new setup. :-)
@@CrudelyMade we didn’t get a 24v system to run 12v power, it’s for 110v inverter. I feel like you missed the whole video. I never said you have to change your system or that you should change your system. I just said this is what we did and why, I have no idea why you think it’s a personal attack on your 12v system. Our fridge is 110v or AC’s are 110v and all the outlets are 110v, which I explained and the only things 12v are a few lights and the jacks. It’s working more than fantastic for us. You do you buddy 👍, thanks for watching!
@@saltytripsGreat Job!!!!! I have the 24v multi plus older version..... It has a 4 amp trickle charge for starting battery you can feed your lithium or gel with it and forget about the 24-12v idea.... Not sure if multi 2 has this feature? I would suggest that every time you turn on system if sitting along time with the power disconnect that you use a 10-25 watt resistor to keep inrush to your inverter from arching and putting a load on input capacitors.... Some batteries have that feature but I didn't see that on the Li... All the reason to go 24 vs 12v are good easier to install thinner wires less current... And much more efficient to step up from 24v to 120v plus better match for solar panels if using 300-400 watts solar panel vs 200w 12v panels.... People don't understand until they get serious and do research on how and why to do things and then they have new opinions... Another cool thing you can do is in the future use 48v server rack as prices fall to feed charge controller at nite to act as a solar panel works great... That way you can have battery in different location to balance weight and run larger 24v cable to offset losses.... That way no need to upgrade system as 48v becomes the new standard..... Tesla just announced that they are scraping the 12v and going 48 due to more efficient. I think they filed patent to set standard.... So you did the right thing.... By the way there is a hack to turn off your buss bar LEDs on RUclips
Let me tell you something I’ve installed for a living for many years,. This video is Bar-none the very best video I’ve ever seen on an install. You hit every single major point of installation you didn’t take four hours to do videotape -literally what you did & showed -was all spot on. And the phrase you want to remember is for a given load, voltage and current are inversely proportional. The only thing I want to add is that using the correct type of heat shrink should have adhesive in it so that when you heat it up, both ends of the heat shrink, you’re putting a coating that comes out both ends to make it watertight so you get no corrosion at your union. It also adds rigidity and will wiring will vibrate a ton less. That makes the connection last forever. Second if you use tinned connectors on your wire ends, you’ll save yourself some corrosion on those connectors. Usually bare copper can start turning green from moisture, depending upon where you live. Those are just a couple of dumb things to throw out there. It’s just you did such an excellent job up in your install, it’s an easy thing to add and will up your game -is really easy spending a few more bucks on the connectors and maybe some better heat shrink.
Really appreciate the kudos 🙏🏻
Look GREAT!!! You mentioned a future 12v lithium battery, I would be a little hesitant to do it personally, as you probably know, you cant charge them in the cold and they tend to have a lot lower CCA if you need to crank a genset ect. Also this is normally your "breakaway cable" battery for your trailer brakes, and probably also has a +12vdc wire directly to the 7-blade connector which connects to your truck battery (will normally trickle charge from the truck). LifePO4 have a LOT less resistance so it would probably blow the truck fuse when you plugged in. I would personally install a new trailer breakaway kit that comes with a little battery and rewire it to use that instead. It can totally be done of course, I have a Victron Orion 24v-12v/70amp converter that is AMAZING, highly recommend, runs basically everything in an RV. I just wanted to stress the point that these are complicated systems and it is easy to overlook something.
I have been learning about this stuff a lot as well, building my second system as we speak, feel free to reach out to me anytime!
edit: Just watched more recent video, saw you added dual 24v-12v converters, posted a comment at that video!
NFPA 1192 Standard on Recreational Vehicles is required to be followed by RVIA, as references to this code NFPA 58 Liquified Petroleum Gas and NFPA 70 National Electrical Code are included. There are a number of additional codes, standards, etc that are also referenced.
The RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) requires that all manufacturers displaying the RVIA tag comply with NFPA 1192, which is basically electrical code for RVs.(Individuals aren’t RVIA) And because state and local jurisdictions don’t have a specific code countermanding RV electrical code, then the NFPA Code supersedes anything you may find in NFPA 70 or even a local AHJ. That is, a local Authority Having Jurisdiction can’t make you rewire the internal wiring of your RV as long as it was built to comply with NFPA 1192 in its year of manufacture.
Sorry about the spelling , always in a rush , fat fingers & key boards for small fingers doesnt help
You are a breath of resh air , I have watched 100's of videos on Victron companenets trying to understand what I am going to get built, you dont cause overload of too much information, therefore for a old grey nomad it is easier to take you - thanks. I am not into this subject like others just want to know what I am to put in for a totally off grid, 2000w solar array with a Genset Honda 2000w & options of 240 main power at times in a truck overlander -appreciated
… glad i could help, we have a playlist for all the victron power mods on our main channel page 👍
Remember that according to code, the wires that you put the wire nuts on should been placed in a junction box. Additionally, as your RV appears to be a 5th wheel I would recommend that you get a Victron DC to DC charger. You can hook that into the 12 volt power from your truck to the 24 volt battery system to charge your 24 volt battery while your driving on the road.
… which code would that be? NEC doesn’t apply to RV’s and NFPA 70 doesn’t having any legal standing with RV’s. It’s probably a good idea to put it in a junction box but there’s no legal code requiring it. 12v charging and getting rid of the 12v battery all together it next on the list, then another 24v battery, then solar.
@saltytrips there actually are some code sections in NEC 70 that talk about mobile trailers, but there is also the RVIA code/standards. I'll check sections of NEC 70 later today.
@@leewhizhulbert9276 from my understanding they are basically guidelines, and carry no legal obligations for RV’s, could be wrong though. There’s also the NFPA 1194 standard but I believe it only applies to manufactures and camp grounds.
Great install. I put a lot into my solar batteries and inverter system. I did all 24 volt. It's 3200 watts solar and 4000 split phase low frequency sungold inverter and 3000 watt powmr inverter. 4 charge controllers 3 victron and 1 powmr. 2 ac chargers and one DC to DC victron charger. I'm a little over 21 kw of lifepo4 and 14 kw of Nissan leaf batteries at the moment lol. I'd love to have the courage to make videos like you have. Thanks to people like you making the videos I learned enough to build a system over the last couple years that will hopefully keep us from a monthly electric bill and continue to give us this freedom from the grid that we are enjoying so much. I put a 9000 BTU 38 seer mini split on our camper and it's by far the best decision as far as cooling and heating our holiday rambler. Thanks for making the videos and great job
That fuse might be a little small when the batteries are low if you are pulling a hard load . If the fuse is just there to protect the wire the largest fuse possible without being dangerous will create a less of a pinch point and make less of a drop in voltage during a surge. 200 amp fuse might work but it's most definitely a little small. Great video tho for sure
This is *exactly* what I was looking for! Thanks a million! But damn, running that 50A wire from the panel in the front back to the panel, etc. seems like the biggest PITA of the entire job!
That part was actually pretty easy. Glad you enjoyed it, we’ve made several upgrades and improvements since this video, theres a playlist on our channel page to follow the build 👍
I love victron charge controllers. When you get them be sure to oversize the charge controllers so that in winter time and the panels are stronger that you can get the extra charge the bigger controllers will allow. Also the also by oversizing the controllers they will last forever. Some people say its safe to over panel a system but its not good for dependability. A dc to dc victron charger is gonna help you a lot also. If you want super fast 120v charging add a 24 volt 50 amp powermax charger. They are a great addition to the 120v charging. Im a solar inverter battery fanatic and think you are doing great by the way
Thanks for the input 👍
Great video. Im in the planning stage of upgrading our caravan with all Victron gear which i have had in previous campers. I love your easy going nature and easy to understand instructions. Even here down under i understand it is what YOU needed for you not what we should all be doing! Great work.. Thanks.
.. thanks 👊💥, good luck with your caravan project 👍
How did you extend the USB and the HDMI for the Gerbo? Where did you get it? Thank you again. Great rat video .
Here’s links
HDMI extension- amzn.to/3rtyZf7
USB extension- amzn.to/458IjmD
Thanks for the kudos, let me know if you have any more questions 👍
Nice system, I was wondering did you delete the original converter battery charger that came with the camper or did you keep it for charging those agm batteries? I have the 290RLS camper.
… kept the 12v system separate for now, I have plants for a separate 12v lithium, I would just run an Orion 24v to 12v but I don’t think it has enough amps for my jacks at full load.
I ordered an MP 24 volt 3000. It seems to make far more sense. More less heat, more efficient, smaller gauge wire, ability to add more solar panel to charge controller and probably safer setup.. 24/12 converter is the only disadvantage.
I saw the 24/12 converter as an asset, allowed me to gain 120lbs of payload back ruclips.net/video/EV0HWocQqRE/видео.htmlsi=3ROKFUhco5am-QYB
Being a newbie to this kind of stuff myself , you have saved me so much stress of deciding which system I need and how to do it . Thank you for this awesome information , I understand things much more clearly now .
Glad to help, we have a playlist on our channel page of all our victron upgrades 👍
Great video. Very informative. Quick question though. I’m gonna do the Multiplus 2 24vdc with the same battery you use, in my 2018 Forest River FR3 and will use a cabin on the rear passenger side for equipment and batteries. The original marine batteries are in a cabin right behind the passenger door. I’ll remove those batteries and put some terminal blocks in there for the positive wires and another for the negative wires. How am I gonna get to the lynx shunt that is in the new battery area almost 20ft away? Should I use a Smart Shunt instead and put it where the old batteries were in the front cabin on the neg terminal block? I don’t think I can use a Lynx Shunt because of its location with the Multiplus in the new rear bin. I also have to use an Orion 24-12vdc converter and run that under the rig to the old battery area to get 12vdc to the rig’s 12 volt appliances. Any help or ideas are appreciated!
You want to keep the shunt as close to the battery as possible, sounds like you already have it planned out. When you make your run to the 12v block make sure you’re using appropriate wire size. 👍
Thanks! One more quick question. I purchased the same exact battery you used and was hoping to get all the settings for the multiplus when you connected it to your Mac. Any way to get the rest of the settings? I saw that you set it for 40 amps but that was all you showed in the video. I haven’t looked through all the comments yet but if you could post all the settings that would be awesome!!!
@@richpetrelli2783 bulk/absorption voltage as 28.8±0.4V.
The float voltage should be 27.6V
Recommended charge rate 40a
I have a Montana and I was thinking about doing the same layout as yours. Do you think you can place a second 24v battery in front. I cant tell from the video. Thank you for the quick response.
… funny you should ask that, i just partnered up with Li Time and the sent me a second 24v 200ah battery. I’ll be doing an install video soon. Its like a 1/2 inch shy of fitting with the 12v AGM batteries in there. Im going to be removing them and installing two Orion 24/12 70 in parallel to run all 12v systems. Im sure the Montana has a bit more room than the Cougar.
The Orion will be about the same price as the additional batteries for 12v. Good choice and excellent video!
Nice!...Thank you for taking the time to provide basically a step by step installation.
… glad to help 👍, much more to come!
I have a question, when you plug in your 7 pin to your tow vehicle woldnt that cause a problem since the tow vehicle battery is 12? Thank you for your time and consideration.
No, they are two separate systems.
Very nice installation.
Thanks , more to come
Love my victron stuff. Have out at remote property
Right on! We have much more to do!
Thanks for the video! Trying to check some of your numbers to make sure I understand things right. You mention at 24v for 3000w inverter you're pushing 187 amps? Shouldn't that be 3000w / 24v = 125 amps. Technically I think it's more like 25.6v which would give you just over 117 amps. Is that correct? Considering a 24v setup similar to this for my sailboat :) Just making sure I'm not missing anything.
You’re supposed to fuse at 1.25 x max load. Which should be 157 amps. I probably wasn’t wearing my glasses and thought the 5 was an 8 🤷♂️🤦♂️. I’m surprised i didn’t catch that.
@@saltytripsGot it. Now I'm tracking. Thanks for the clarification! Very nice setup you have there. I've been using Ampere Time / Li Time batteries for a while myself and have had no problems with them.
@@LakeSailor321 heres a link to a playlist of our upgrade and up dates to the system. ruclips.net/p/PLXL0DAEhCeew8ymmeXnQZbforpQDwK_e3&si=9HaBmbeWJT7RcbAC
List adds up to 4K plus wire n tools! Plus second battery plus panels = chaching $
Yes, it can add up but we wouldn’t be without it, we’ve expanded since this video, theres a playlist on our channel page if you care to follow the progress
I will still be installing a 12 volt system in my 1967 GM tdh-4519 city transit bus. The reason I wanted to comment is that you should have a fuse in-between the battery and the main switch, also that switch is redundant because the lynx shunt has one built in and controlled by the Cerbo GX and Bluetooth connect on your phone
@@jamesmason7124 wrong on both
How are you powering your 12V circuits? Typically it requires a 24v to 12V converter such as the Victron Orion converter
Still have the stock 12v system and battery in place, next upgrade I will be adding another 24v batter and get rid of the 12v batter to be replaced with two Orion 24/12-70 in parallel, stay tuned.
You don't save a lot of weight or space by using 24 volt batteries. But you can use thinner wires that are cheaper and easier to run in tight spaces.
@@Jayda08 and less mppt controllers
LESS HEAT!!!! Half the current...That heat and wear and tear on the wires/connections is where the danger lies..
Good vid... Question: If you have the 12V system grounded to the frame and also the 24V grounded to the frame, does that not create some kind of weird ground loops or anything? I have a trailer with 12V factory lights (each light is grounded to frame) but I am installing basically the same 24V setup you have.
Does the Multiplus have a separate ground that goes to the frame? I saw someone else ground the Multiplus to an Orion 24/12 converter, but I have to research further on that.
Yes they all ground to frame, its has no negative effect, no pun intended 😁
ruclips.net/video/EV0HWocQqRE/видео.htmlsi=IcxQxQfjrDs6YCEO
Been wanting to do this upgrade. Noticed you didn't say anything about a converter on the rig, does yours not have one?
I’m assuming your talking about the 120v to 12v converter to run the 12v accessories and charger the 12v battery. I have plans to get rid of the 12v batter all together and run 2 parallel Orion 24/12-70 to run the 12v systems off the 24v battery.
Fantastic video.
🙏🏻🙏🏻
Is AC in 240v split phase? How is it you have a L1 and a L2? I needed an auto transformer to generate the L2.
All 50amp RV’s have two hot legs split phase. They almost never have any 240v appliances.
@@saltytrips I was like holy cow Victron is finally making a 240 volt North American U.S.A. inverter!!!! Then I looked up the schematic and my excitement died lol. Happy and sad all within 2 minutes. I get what you did now by looking at the electrical internals. Cool project and thanks for the quick response. Cheers
so why did you go with 24v i missed it..
Running 24v don’t you want to use a 24v to 12v converter and eliminate the 12v battery?
Sorry I see you have another video with 24-12v.
@@randyclarkson4808 just about to send the link 👍
How long could you potentially run the A/C with the one battery with your setup?
1 battery - ruclips.net/video/BLCZoHLC578/видео.htmlsi=nuZ2NsJ36-nlXSV2
2 batteries- ruclips.net/video/66CeQvapzqE/видео.htmlsi=CgMC_2et0_r2UyqU
I actually only put a 150A fuse on the inverter, but have 200A fuses like you for the batteries. Given the inverter I don't think has reverse polarity protection etc (I could be wrong) I felt given my fuzzy brain it would be safer to go 50A lower. The most it's ever drawn even at 2400W it about 120A.
The rule of thumb is you should fuse at about 125% of max load. So if running at 100% max, if it was fused at 100% load then over time heat may make it blow on accident.
You’re such a fast worker they should call you the flash
🤣👏👏👏
Hey Chris. I just watched a few more of your videos. They are incredibly informative! Thanks so much for the content, it saved me a ton of work and having to dig through manuals. I have one more question. I bought exactly the same battery (Li Time 24v 200ah) and was hoping that you wouldn’t mind posting the multiplus 2 settings you used when you hooked up your Mac? I saw you drop the charge current to 40 amps but you didn’t show any other settings. There will likely be others that purchase the same exact equipment since you recommended it and having the settings would be very awesome!!!
Hello to a fellow Floridian by the way! The day I got the multiplus and related stuff it absolutely poured in Jax, we got stuck in the mud then we also found that the tire place that put our new tires on didn’t tighten the valve stems all the way and we ended up with two flat tires on the outside of our dualies! Go figure. It was a rough day 😂
Ugh rough day, thats RV life sometimes, I replied to your other comment but i’ll leave the setting here too.
We recommend you set the bulk/absorption voltage as 28.8±0.4V.
The float voltage should be 27.6V
Hey Chris. I bought the same crimper you have but it’s weird. If I use the 2/0 die set in the tool with a 2/0 cable and 2/0 lug, I can still pull the cable out of the lug pretty easily after crimping to the max. No matter how hard I crimp it ( the die bottoms out against the other die and never really finishes the crimp) and I can still pull the cable out! If I use the 1/0 die set with the 2/0 cable and 2/0 lug, I can crimp it perfectly. Do you have the same issue with your crimper? It’s almost like the 2/0 die set is just a little too big for 2/0 lugs and doesn’t crimp them completely.
@@richpetrelli2783 I’ve noticed quite a few people have had the same issue with several crimpers. If it’s not snug enough I do the same thing and go down one size too. Seems to be an issue for a lot of people.
Here are all the settings from Li Time support for 1 the 24v 230ah battery:
Absorption Voltage: 28.8V
Float Voltage: 27.6V
Equalization Voltage: 28V
Re-Bulk Voltage offset:0.10V
Absorption Duration: (Adaptive/Fixed) Adaptive
Maximum Absorption Time: 8h
Tail Current: 4.6A（0.02*capacity）
Equalization Current Percentage:10%
Automatic Equalization: (Disabled / Equalize every ____ Days) Disabled
Equalization stop mode: (Fixed Time / Automatic on Voltage) Fixed Time
Maximum Equalization Duration:4h
Temperature Compensation (mV/°C):-16.2
Low-Temperature Cutoff (optional): Disabled
Chris, where did you put the chassis ground cable? On the lynx shunt negative or on the lynx distributor neg terminal?
This was very helpful Thank you. The only issue I had was I didn't realize all the extra cable that didn't come with the units. and i only have 1 100-amp hour batteries.
Glad it was helpful, definitely would need more battery to run two inverters.
I will be looking forward to that video . Thank you.
Which video?
you should go back and change the wire nuts out for crimps or lever nuts. wire nuts can come lose
Not with a serious amount of electrical tape applied. They’re not going anywhere. May eventually install an inline EMS.
This was great. One step at a time is what we have to do too so thanks for being real!
We have much more up grades in our playlist on our channel page 👍
Why not 48Volts? For answer: Victron has proper documentation to AC and DC wiring. I would stick to that.
@@strobi0001 they don’t make a 48v 2x120
That's an issue. I have 48V 230.
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Just a heads up , 10,000 KWH is 10 million. I think you meant ,10 kWh and 5 kWh. 1 KWH is 1 x1000watts = 1000 watts for one hour 👍
@@sv-cuda That’s odd, where in this video did I ever mention KWH?
Really helpful... though it's a shame they don't make something all in one box. The charger/solar charger/inverter etc. so all you do is connect the battery and solar.
@@lliaolsen728 a lot of companies do make them but the fact that Victron doesn’t is the best part because its expandable. You not stuck with what you started with, check out the rest of the victron build, we’ve gotten a lot bigger. ruclips.net/p/PLXL0DAEhCeew8ymmeXnQZbforpQDwK_e3&si=H6ajkJDFtkSqiM9U
I am putting 12 volt in my fith wheel camper
👍
The tiny little wife didnt get to say anything. LOL
Why would she? She didn’t install anything, internet is full of some real strange ones 🤦♂️🤷♂️.
so.. the only reason I saw was that you could have 1 battery you could barely move vs 4 batteries... that's not much of a reason. if that 1 battery has issues, that's a big expense, vs being able to swap out 1 of 4 batteries that develops an issue. plus, with 1 battery down, you still have 75% capacity vs 0% capacity when your one and only battery dies. you saw people want 24 volt systems but didn't go into the WHY of it.. slightly bigger wires? is that the big trouble people have with 12 volt systems after having their system for a while? that doesn't make any sense.
Less Amps, less heat, less wire, less batteries…. Eventually we will have four of these batteries as I upgrade to solar. 4 of these batteries is much easier and take up less space and weigh less than 16 12v. Even two of these batteries are way better than having 8 separate 12v. Not even close.
@@saltytrips and if you're still running 12v appliances, there's going to be a 5-10%+ efficiency loss, so you're losing capacity there. and then 24v appliances are going to be another expense, and tend to be more $, on average, than common 12v versions of the same things. it seems like a huge expense to change an existing system (something you say people want to do) to simply run smaller wires, where you already have wires that work perfectly well.
what are the actual benefits? because replacing a whole electrical system just for smaller wires, with 10% conversion power loss to get back down to 12V to run lights etc.. just doesn't seem like a daily bonus.
is it just that you like the system? that's fine.. but there's a difference between that and "you should spend $$$ because it's better because..."
maybe I just misunderstood the point of the video. glad you like the new setup. :-)
@@CrudelyMade we didn’t get a 24v system to run 12v power, it’s for 110v inverter. I feel like you missed the whole video. I never said you have to change your system or that you should change your system. I just said this is what we did and why, I have no idea why you think it’s a personal attack on your 12v system. Our fridge is 110v or AC’s are 110v and all the outlets are 110v, which I explained and the only things 12v are a few lights and the jacks. It’s working more than fantastic for us. You do you buddy 👍, thanks for watching!
@@saltytripsGreat Job!!!!! I have the 24v multi plus older version..... It has a 4 amp trickle charge for starting battery you can feed your lithium or gel with it and forget about the 24-12v idea.... Not sure if multi 2 has this feature? I would suggest that every time you turn on system if sitting along time with the power disconnect that you use a 10-25 watt resistor to keep inrush to your inverter from arching and putting a load on input capacitors.... Some batteries have that feature but I didn't see that on the Li... All the reason to go 24 vs 12v are good easier to install thinner wires less current... And much more efficient to step up from 24v to 120v plus better match for solar panels if using 300-400 watts solar panel vs 200w 12v panels.... People don't understand until they get serious and do research on how and why to do things and then they have new opinions... Another cool thing you can do is in the future use 48v server rack as prices fall to feed charge controller at nite to act as a solar panel works great... That way you can have battery in different location to balance weight and run larger 24v cable to offset losses.... That way no need to upgrade system as 48v becomes the new standard..... Tesla just announced that they are scraping the 12v and going 48 due to more efficient. I think they filed patent to set standard.... So you did the right thing.... By the way there is a hack to turn off your buss bar LEDs on RUclips
@@michaeld4502 … I’ll definitely have to look into that 12v battery charging 🤔, great input 👍