Great video! Just wanted to make a small correction. It's 10,000 watt hours, or 10 kilowatt hours. 10,000 kilowatt hours is the same as 10 megawatt hours - you could power quite a large neighborhood with that...
@@saltytrips this reply is not intended as a mean spirited reply as I have been seeing in your last video. Not sure why so many were upset with your project? Several in our camp friends have $12-$15k systems. It wasn’t needed for me though. 7 years ago I started studying solar power for our tt. I was getting paralysis by analysis. So I just jumped in real small with parts I picked up and pieced together. It was a good learning experience. I have since added 2 more panels and a small inverter. I felt lithium batteries would drop in time and the accountant in me wouldn’t buy into the voodoo math some were advocating. A year ago added 2 -100 amp LiPO batteries @ $550 vs the $2 -$3k they use to be. Added a small Champion generator for the few times we need 110v or battery charging. So I’m all in for ~ $1200. We are boondockers but require small power here in the PNW. We’re out 1 x a month 4-5 days and a yearly snowbird trip to Az.with a couple of 2 week adventures in the summer. At any rate I do like your system and the products you’re using. More power to you.
Great, I like the 24 to 12 option to carry on using existing 12v systems/loads. The DC to DC converter being 70 Amps, it should be able to charge the start batteries as well... on my boat i.e.
Did you ever show the front jacks working on the your new set up? That's the whole reason I clicked on this video was to see these Orion 24/12 converters lifting the front of your 5th wheel. If so, let me know at what time in the video - I'm really am interested.
@@saltytrips There should be a breakaway cable from the trailer to the truck. When you pull that cable out of the holder, it applies 12vdc+ to the brakes. Normally a trailer has a battery of some kind so that if the trailer disconnect from the tow vehicle, they breakaway cable will pull out of the house, and the trailer brakes will be fully applied from the trailer's battery.
@@TsaWind correct that hasn’t changed. The power wires simply moved from the 12v battery to the 24v-12v converter. Power simply comes from the converter from the 24v battery instead of a 12 v battery.
I’d adjust the Orions individually first to get the voltage to within a few millivolts. If there is a large enough disparity I see the possibility that one could continuously sink current from the other one causing unnecessary heating and waste. Unless there’s some Bluetooth slave/master feature I’m unaware of. Best to play it safe -> $$$$ worth of hardware but no multimeter is setting yourself up for some expensive face palm action. Good luck with the build progression.
Been running fine for months, and if you ever tried to adjust these, there is no “within a millivolt” the dial is to obtuse. As you will see in this video ruclips.net/video/6jU0-fm6YnY/видео.htmlsi=VbseBGFAmDTAAgRZ
Brother make sure to add a 300 amp fuse between the shutoff and the battery ( max 9" away from pos terminal on your battery) .make sure you use a " 300 amp blue sea class T fuse block" happy travels
How did you get power to the 24v to 12v converter I don’t see a fuse in there to the power side of the bus bar? my mistake I should wait till the end of the video until I make a comment. Excellent job.I’ve been thinking of doing a 48 V system but I don’t have enough room on the roof for the amount of solar panels I would need. So now I’m wondering if I could go 24 V. Because I’d rather not use 12 V. Thanks for all the info and all your excellent videos.😁
Hey there, love the videos! I am also in the middle of wiring parallel 24/12-70A Orions as well, however, I am seriously struggling with fitting two lugs on the short studs on the Orions, how did you manage to install two lugs per terminal stud and still use the flat washer, lock washer, and nut, any suggestions? I tried to take apart the Orion to see if I could add a longer stud, but they are connected to the PCBs, so no luck there. I am using 6AWG and the thickness of my lugs are only 0.060". If I don't use the flat washer, then the thumb nut's threads are only able to get 3/4 of a turn, which doesn't seem like enough.
I have been waiting for this video for a while. I have to questions. You said you got this idea from another youtuber. What youtuber was it? Second question. What fuse did you use for the lynx distributor. Thank you for yur time.
Irene Iron and 80 amp fuse (each 12v with a max operation of 85amps, so with parallel would be 170 amps max, and your fusing at the 24v which uses half the amps so 75-80 amp fuse should be perfect)
I’m not sure i understand what you’re asking, can you expand? If you don’t have an isolation switch then you have to turn off power to everything if you want to work on the 12v system. With the isolation switch you can turn off power to 12v systems and leave the 120v and inverter on. Is that what you were asking?
Isolated means there are two terminals each side and the negative terminals of the input are independent (isolated / not connected) to the output. So there is no direct DC path for current to flow from one side to the other. Non isolated share a common negative terminal and thus have 3 terminals like the one in this video. (In/common-neg/out). Although some do come with four terminals but the common/negatives are internally connected. If you want a common ground use the type shown in this video.
@@supersize75k5 the Orion 24/12 can be used as a “charger”, but no need for a 12v battery. With two Orions they are redundant and adding a 12v battery would just add more weight to the trailer and create triple redundancy which is a bit over kill.
AS far as the wire from the Lynx to the 24/12 converter, I see you chose 1/0 cable, but does it have to be that thick if using less total amperage? I'll be using around 30 amps on one 24/12 converter but I'm trying to figure out wire size for that. I think I can do 6 AWG wire (from my Lynx to my Orion 24/12 converter) but still figuring it out. Any ideas anyone? Thanks
Do you know if there is a Multiplus that can put out 240V only from a battery bank (without being plugged into shore power)? The only thing I need to be 240V is my electric tankless water heater - kind of a bummer. (I don't have room for small tank heater or propane heater)
@@saltytrips Ah, close... I'm looking for a 24V version. I think there's a similar European version that runs at 50Hz but can be changed to 60Hz in settings.
Thank you. I'm going to mirror your system with just a few differences.. I have two 12 volt batteries such I'm going to hook them up in series and only going to put 1250 watts of solar on the roof. Love your videos
I have 200lbs of lithium batteries in my RV. Make certain you put 1/4 inch concrete backer board around in the cabinet to buy you time to escape, should the lithium ignite. I have an entire firewall between my batteries and the living space.
You didn't test the jacks with the 2 onions?? Wasn't that the whole purpose of the video? Did it not work and that's why you didn't show it? What about starting a generator with the orions??
The whole point is to get rid and of the lead acid batteries and power my 12v systems. They will provide up to 140 amps at 12 volt continuously. No issues. Haven’t run the jacks yet because theres been a delay in our next move.
"I have 10,000 kilo watt hours"...um nope. You have 400 ah @ 24v or 9600wh or 9.6kwh. 10,000 kwh = 10,000,000wh or 10 mega watt hour. That is about 10% of the power needed to run the large hadron collider at CERN or a little over 20% of the power needed to run Fermilab or about the power needed by 200-400 homes. Are you charging the RV's batteries off the vehicle while being towed? If so what are you using to charge the 24v batteries off the car's alt?
Yes i miss spoke and addressed it in the description of the video. You don’t get watts by 200ah x 24v, because max charge is 27.5v so you average between 24v and 27.5v then multiply that by 200ah which is just over 5100wh.
@@saltytrips Fair point, most people just use 12, 24,26 and 48 for simplicity. But you aren't wrong. Its a bit more and that might even matter in some situations. Some cars for example have trouble charging an AGM battery. Because their alternators are regulated to a lower voltage. Toyota I'm looking at you disapprovingly. You can "fix" it by tricking the alternator into putting out more volts.
Great video series. I'm watching with interest as i plan our system for our motorhome. To determine the current draw of various components, I would recommend you purchase a clamp-on ammeter. You can replace that voltmeter that just wrapped out on you. To measure the current when you run the jack clamp the meter around the positive 12V and you will know exactly how much current you draw. You can do the same for any DC component. You can even measure the L1 or L2 out of the inverter to measure the fridge, ACs, or anything else.
I miss spoke, 10,000 wh not, 10,000 kwh., get a little excited sometimes 🤷♂️
Great video! Just wanted to make a small correction. It's 10,000 watt hours, or 10 kilowatt hours. 10,000 kilowatt hours is the same as 10 megawatt hours - you could power quite a large neighborhood with that...
Correct, didn’t even realize i was saying that, can’t believe i didnt catch that in editing 🤦♂️. Can’t see the forest for the trees 🤷♂️😂
As Tim the Tool man would say; "More Power!" Thats a lot of power on tap.
Thinking about getting one more 😁
@@saltytrips this reply is not intended as a mean spirited reply as I have been seeing in your last video. Not sure why so many were upset with your project? Several in our camp friends have $12-$15k systems. It wasn’t needed for me though. 7 years ago I started studying solar power for our tt. I was getting paralysis by analysis. So I just jumped in real small with parts I picked up and pieced together. It was a good learning experience. I have since added 2 more panels and a small inverter. I felt lithium batteries would drop in time and the accountant in me wouldn’t buy into the voodoo math some were advocating. A year ago added 2 -100 amp LiPO batteries @ $550 vs the $2 -$3k they use to be. Added a small Champion generator for the few times we need 110v or battery charging. So I’m all in for ~ $1200. We are boondockers but require small power here in the PNW. We’re out 1 x a month 4-5 days and a yearly snowbird trip to Az.with a couple of 2 week adventures in the summer. At any rate I do like your system and the products you’re using. More power to you.
Great, I like the 24 to 12 option to carry on using existing 12v systems/loads. The DC to DC converter being 70 Amps, it should be able to charge the start batteries as well... on my boat i.e.
Did you ever show the front jacks working on the your new set up? That's the whole reason I clicked on this video was to see these Orion 24/12 converters lifting the front of your 5th wheel. If so, let me know at what time in the video - I'm really am interested.
… next time we move, hopefully soon
I tested my rig and landing gear which is hydraulic pulls 80 to 90 amps.@@saltytrips
Amazing System! Very nice progress. How did this relate to your "breakaway" brake cable, and the truck 7-blade connection?
It’s not attached to that.
@@saltytrips There should be a breakaway cable from the trailer to the truck. When you pull that cable out of the holder, it applies 12vdc+ to the brakes. Normally a trailer has a battery of some kind so that if the trailer disconnect from the tow vehicle, they breakaway cable will pull out of the house, and the trailer brakes will be fully applied from the trailer's battery.
@@TsaWind correct that hasn’t changed. The power wires simply moved from the 12v battery to the 24v-12v converter. Power simply comes from the converter from the 24v battery instead of a 12 v battery.
I’d adjust the Orions individually first to get the voltage to within a few millivolts.
If there is a large enough disparity I see the possibility that one could continuously sink current from the other one causing unnecessary heating and waste. Unless there’s some Bluetooth slave/master feature I’m unaware of.
Best to play it safe -> $$$$ worth of hardware but no multimeter is setting yourself up for some expensive face palm action.
Good luck with the build progression.
Been running fine for months, and if you ever tried to adjust these, there is no “within a millivolt” the dial is to obtuse. As you will see in this video ruclips.net/video/6jU0-fm6YnY/видео.htmlsi=VbseBGFAmDTAAgRZ
Great video it’s worth the extra cost
I noticed there was a kit of lugs and heat shrink on your work table would you have a link to that
Thanks again
I wind up moving the converters and dropping down to 2 awg wire, here are the links.
Wire - amzn.to/45dcJFX
Lugs- amzn.to/45fH8n0
Brother make sure to add a 300 amp fuse between the shutoff and the battery ( max 9" away from pos terminal on your battery) .make sure you use a " 300 amp blue sea class T fuse block" happy travels
We have a 300a fuse at the battery and another 300a catastrophic fuse on the Lynx Shunt. A third fuse would be overkill.
@@saltytrips I didn't see the one at the battery, that's why I mentioned it
Great video! It was very informative!
Thanks, glad to help 👍
How did you get power to the 24v to 12v converter I don’t see a fuse in there to the power side of the bus bar? my mistake I should wait till the end of the video until I make a comment. Excellent job.I’ve been thinking of doing a 48 V system but I don’t have enough room on the roof for the amount of solar panels I would need. So now I’m wondering if I could go 24 V. Because I’d rather not use 12 V. Thanks for all the info and all your excellent videos.😁
24v will definitely save you money on charge controller if you plan to run over 1200 watts
Hey there, love the videos! I am also in the middle of wiring parallel 24/12-70A Orions as well, however, I am seriously struggling with fitting two lugs on the short studs on the Orions, how did you manage to install two lugs per terminal stud and still use the flat washer, lock washer, and nut, any suggestions? I tried to take apart the Orion to see if I could add a longer stud, but they are connected to the PCBs, so no luck there. I am using 6AWG and the thickness of my lugs are only 0.060". If I don't use the flat washer, then the thumb nut's threads are only able to get 3/4 of a turn, which doesn't seem like enough.
@@bradleyelliott4348 sorry to hear your struggling, I had no issues at all. Send pic to saltytripsrv@gmail.com
I have been waiting for this video for a while. I have to questions. You said you got this idea from another youtuber. What youtuber was it? Second question. What fuse did you use for the lynx distributor. Thank you for yur time.
Irene Iron and 80 amp fuse (each 12v with a max operation of 85amps, so with parallel would be 170 amps max, and your fusing at the 24v which uses half the amps so 75-80 amp fuse should be perfect)
Thank you for getting back to me. How is it working so far? I know you said you will do a video but I am just curious.
@@sidcenteno874 so far so good, haven’t moved the RV yet so no real heavy loads but make sure you have that notification bell 🔔 on for updates 👍
Great video! Thanks for sharing. How many hours can you run your ac off of both batteries?
ruclips.net/video/66CeQvapzqE/видео.htmlsi=tmhbPJ_LiOrq-_E8
Here’s more upgrades since then too. ruclips.net/video/HmhbyLoQnng/видео.htmlsi=PPEeO5Slx5_Z6UwM
GREAT VIDEO!!! Just wondering what the difference is between the dc to dc ISOLATED vs Non isolated?
I’m not sure i understand what you’re asking, can you expand? If you don’t have an isolation switch then you have to turn off power to everything if you want to work on the 12v system. With the isolation switch you can turn off power to 12v systems and leave the 120v and inverter on. Is that what you were asking?
One is grounded to frame n one isn’t from my search today.,,,? Don’t hold me to it.😊
Isolated means there are two terminals each side and the negative terminals of the input are independent (isolated / not connected) to the output. So there is no direct DC path for current to flow from one side to the other.
Non isolated share a common negative terminal and thus have 3 terminals like the one in this video. (In/common-neg/out).
Although some do come with four terminals but the common/negatives are internally connected.
If you want a common ground use the type shown in this video.
10 thousand killowatt hours = 10 megawatt hours. Oh well. Good video. Thanks
I mentioned this on the description area and pinned comment 🤦♂️
would it accomplish the same thing if you had a charger from 24 V to 12 V and just had a 12 V battery additionally?
@@supersize75k5 the Orion 24/12 can be used as a “charger”, but no need for a 12v battery. With two Orions they are redundant and adding a 12v battery would just add more weight to the trailer and create triple redundancy which is a bit over kill.
@ thank you for the response. I mistakenly ordered a 48 to 12 V converter for my project. at 20 amps it seems it's very undersized
AS far as the wire from the Lynx to the 24/12 converter, I see you chose 1/0 cable, but does it have to be that thick if using less total amperage? I'll be using around 30 amps on one 24/12 converter but I'm trying to figure out wire size for that. I think I can do 6 AWG wire (from my Lynx to my Orion 24/12 converter) but still figuring it out.
Any ideas anyone? Thanks
I used 1/0 because I had extra, 6awg is rated for up to 50 amps 👍
Question, what do you do with the factory 12v DC converter? Can it stay in the system to be a 12v source as well?
We turned off the breaker, it’s unnecessary and would be a waste of inverter wattage off grid.
Pretty impressed with this conversion. What is the total cost? I had to suscribe to your channel because I am impressed!!!!
I haven’t added it up yet, but once its complete ill do a cost break down of the build 👍
Do you know if there is a Multiplus that can put out 240V only from a battery bank (without being plugged into shore power)?
The only thing I need to be 240V is my electric tankless water heater - kind of a bummer. (I don't have room for small tank heater or propane heater)
Here -> amzn.to/48qvFBg
@@saltytrips Ah, close... I'm looking for a 24V version.
I think there's a similar European version that runs at 50Hz but can be changed to 60Hz in settings.
Are you thinking 230v European? Or 240v American split phase?
I’d look at the phoenix lineup depending on your country’s power hz and volts
What did you do with factory installed 12v disconnect switch on going to 24v? Did you remove it or connect somewhere else?
Nothing, all 12v systems stayed exactly the same but instead of connecting to batteries they connect to the Orions.
What size fuse did you us on your Orion 24/12v 70a converters ?
80a , on the 24v input side its half the amps of the 12v output side.
Thank you. I'm going to mirror your system with just a few differences.. I have two 12 volt batteries such I'm going to hook them up in series and only going to put 1250 watts of solar on the roof. Love your videos
I have 200lbs of lithium batteries in my RV. Make certain you put 1/4 inch concrete backer board around in the cabinet to buy you time to escape, should the lithium ignite. I have an entire firewall between my batteries and the living space.
Seen a house 3 days ago burn.I haven’t watched vid so .I was thinking b-omb box in front of my rv to contain fusion.
You didn't test the jacks with the 2 onions?? Wasn't that the whole purpose of the video? Did it not work and that's why you didn't show it? What about starting a generator with the orions??
The whole point is to get rid and of the lead acid batteries and power my 12v systems. They will provide up to 140 amps at 12 volt continuously. No issues. Haven’t run the jacks yet because theres been a delay in our next move.
"I have 10,000 kilo watt hours"...um nope. You have 400 ah @ 24v or 9600wh or 9.6kwh. 10,000 kwh = 10,000,000wh or 10 mega watt hour. That is about 10% of the power needed to run the large hadron collider at CERN or a little over 20% of the power needed to run Fermilab or about the power needed by 200-400 homes.
Are you charging the RV's batteries off the vehicle while being towed? If so what are you using to charge the 24v batteries off the car's alt?
Yes i miss spoke and addressed it in the description of the video. You don’t get watts by 200ah x 24v, because max charge is 27.5v so you average between 24v and 27.5v then multiply that by 200ah which is just over 5100wh.
Man just when I thought I had this math stuff down 😅 5120wh I think is what redoo says.
@@2hotscottpro yes , that about right 👍
@@saltytrips Fair point, most people just use 12, 24,26 and 48 for simplicity. But you aren't wrong. Its a bit more and that might even matter in some situations. Some cars for example have trouble charging an AGM battery. Because their alternators are regulated to a lower voltage. Toyota I'm looking at you disapprovingly. You can "fix" it by tricking the alternator into putting out more volts.
Great video series. I'm watching with interest as i plan our system for our motorhome.
To determine the current draw of various components, I would recommend you purchase a clamp-on ammeter. You can replace that voltmeter that just wrapped out on you.
To measure the current when you run the jack clamp the meter around the positive 12V and you will know exactly how much current you draw.
You can do the same for any DC component. You can even measure the L1 or L2 out of the inverter to measure the fridge, ACs, or anything else.
I have a few queries, can we speak via email?