RV Electrical System Solar and Lithium Battery Upgrade - Start-to-Finish Guide
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- Опубликовано: 4 июн 2024
- This video will show you, start-to-finish, how we upgraded an existing electrical system in a 30A Travel Trailer.
In this DIY 30A RV electrical install, we cover a wide range of topics, so we have included chapters at the bottom of this description if you need to find a specific part of the install.
This comprehensive tutorial will cover installing a 270aH Battle Born GC3, wiring a Victron Lynx Distributor with a BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor and master disconnect switch, replacing the lead acid battery with a battery relocation kit, installing 800W of solar panels connected to a solar charge controller, wiring a Victron MultiPlus 2k and splice kit so we can run 120V outlets without being connected to shore power, and alternator charging using Anderson connectors. Each chapter will also include a segment on programming and testing each component so you can best understand your system.
➤ Shop kits used in this video at the EXPLORIST.life Store: shop.explorist.life
➤ Shop Battle Born Batteries: battlebornbatteries.com/?afmc=...
✅Use code 'explorist' for $50 off per battery.
➤ Binge all our other full installs: • DIY Van, RV & Motorhom...
00:00 Introduction
00:36 OEM System Walkthrough
03:48 Electrical Upgrade Plan
04:16 Lithium Battery Install
04:49 Wiring the Lynx Distributor & Chassis Ground
11:52 Battery Bank Relocation
16:01 MultiPlus and Splice Kit Install
25:42 Solar Install
34:33 Alternator Charging
40:16 Final Thoughts
Here are some additional resources that you may find helpful with planning and installing your DIY Camper:
➤TRUCK CAMPER INSTALL: • How To Upgrade Your Tr...
➤ Binge the Transit Van Build: • The Ultimate Camper Va...
➤ FORD TRANSIT DIY Camper Van Electrical Install: • DIY CAMPER VAN ELECTRI...
➤ DIY Sprinter Camper Van Electrical Install - Full Tutorial: • DIY Sprinter Camper Va...
➤ DIY Camper Solar Wiring Diagrams: www.explorist.life/solarwirin...
➤ How to Perform a Power Audit: • How Much Solar Power D...
➤ Basic Parts & Components of an Electrical System: • Basic Solar Parts Need...
➤ How to Cut Wire: www.explorist.life/how-to-cut...
➤ How to Strip Wire: • How to Strip Wire from...
➤ How to Crimp Wire: • How To Crimp Wire Lugs...
➤ How to Make MC4 Connectors: • How To Make MC4 Connec...
➤ How to Wire Solar Panels in Series-Parallel: • How to Wire Solar Pane...
➤ How to Crimp Wire Ferrules: • How to Crimp Ferrules ...
➤ How to Wire an AC/DC Breaker/Fuse Box: www.explorist.life/how-to-wir... 
Авто/Мото
❗❗ *IF YOU WANT A SYSTEM LIKE THIS:* ❗❗
*Here is the core kit:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-retrofit-2000w-inverter-200-1000ah-battery-bank-dc-dc-charger-wiring-diagram-kit/
*Also available with a 3kVA Inverter:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-upgrade-400-1200ah-battery-bank-multiplus-3k-12-orion-12-12-30-wiring-diagram-kit/
*And then you can add whatever solar you like/need from these options (12V battery bank options):* shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
Or...
*Here is the EXACT setup we showed in this video:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/travel-trailer-electrical-upgrade-270ah-battery-multiplus-2k-12v-800w-solar-orion-12-12-30/
*GET $50 OFF PER BATTLE BORN BATTERY WITH CODE explorist AT CHECKOUT:* battlebornbatteries.com/shop/brands/battle-born-batteries/?afmc=explorist_bb67
I purchased all this before I found your site Sad but that is reality
The reason I want to know about C rates is as I am a DYI person and want you to know build my own batteries Of course cost is a huge factor in this choice
How much do you charge to install this?
can i do a 3000 w inverter instead of a 2000w for this system
I dont think you guys know how much we have been waiting for an RV related video that works for us all! This is great. Thanks!
Hey, @andrewhofmann5453! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Agreed! I have learned so much by watching just a few videos… I feel like such a nerd 😂
Why is solar panel wiring such a "thinner" gauge? Do they eventually need to be "thicker" with the more solar panels in use?
@@1gestebanthe higher the voltage the thinner the wiring you can get by with because you size the wire by amps
I really hope you're on the payroll and get shares of Victron. You guys do an amazing job of explaining everything.
You guys do a top-notch job. So clean so detailed is unbelievable
Hey @tomwilliam5118, Thanks so much! Cheers!
This video is great! I'm almost done retrofitting my daughters 30 amp OEM system and this helped fill in some final pieces. Also, your wiring kits are fantastic. I have sourced most of my upgrade through you with excellent shipping times and accuracy. Great job!
In the process of adding a Victron DC to DC charger in my trailer as well. Thank you for the excellent tutorials, they have been extremely helpful!
After the last software update of my Victron solar charger and shunt the settings did change. Thanks for the screen shot.
These video's and wiring kit packages are just plain Awsome Nat and his crew have taken so much guess work out of the processes and planning.
Excellent video for the 30A trailer folks like me. Appreciate the details...well done. I'm thinking about a game changer prep as I build my system. Thanks!! Take care.
As an installer, I approve this video. Well done. 👍👍
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
I really could've used this a year and a half ago! 😂 Thanks for all the great advice!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
What a great video. Your technical knowledge and explanations are priceless. Also your kits are easy to use for us DIYers.
Hey, @scottd143! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Stephanie has truly turned out to be an A+++ PRODIGY.
Your tutorials has always been helpful, we appreciate your input.
Hey, @ascenttev6022! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
What a great resource. You guys are so clear and concise with your tutorials. Excellent videos. Bravo!
Outstanding. As a retired electrical/Mechanical contractor I understand most of this. The equipment is new to me. Thank you. I’m subscribed.
Great work! Absolutely love the way these videos are put together, thank you!
Thank you very much!
Thanks guys. I really like the way you break it down
Hey @the_searchers, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Hey thank you for putting this video together! It is the most comprehensive video I've seen on going from zero to fully decked out. I have to figure out how I'm going to run power to the Multpass 2 and back to the fuse panel, but one problem at a time!
Love your videos. Not just this one but all of them
Hey, @mausie1967! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Finally someone that explains the thing the right way and the simple way highly intelligent good video
Hey @guttermastersplus5613, Thanks so much! Cheers!
I have an RV trailer that is nearly identical to the one in your video. Thanks for this.
Our pleasure! Thanks for watching!
You made this look so easy! DC-DC charging is on my list eventually and I can't believe how simple you made it out to be!
Thanks! Yeah, it's easy to overthink that charging leg of the system. Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Another outstanding "how to" video. I purchased and followed your detailed diagram for a 3000w system a few years ago and the system is still working great. If I was doing an install today, I would definitely buy all of the necessary install kits from you to make sourcing easier. Keep up the great work.
Hey, @19ken49! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
I could watch this stuff all day. Is it uncommon that I am contemplating a career change, so I can do cool stuff like this all the time? I've done a lithium battery and the 712 with inverter and new converter in my little TT so far, solely from the confidence and complete explanations of each step that you provide. Thank you Nate and Steph!
BTW, I purchased the wiring diagram for this install an it has been super helpful. Well done!
These videos are amazing and make me think I could DIY this (with no electrical experience). I'm going to let a professional do the first install, but I look forward to the day where I will DIY my next camper electrical.
I upgraded my Imagine 17MKE to 300 Ah of lithium, 3000 watt inverter, two solar chargers. Works very well. 370 watts on the roof and 200-400 watts portable. Great video. Glad to see you both in it.
That's an awesome setup.
Good job. You guys are doing a fantastic work.
Thank you so much 😀
A great video. Your explanation really helps me better understand the whole process. Currently have a Sprinter Van I purchased used that has a rather sketchy system and know it’s going to need updating.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for awesome videos and explanations. FYI, using Tabasco Sause, or Taco Bell "Fire Sause" works excellent at cleaning electrical cord prongs, old military trick that works awesome on copper or brass due to low pH.
Fantastic video!!!
Shows me that I can do this. For a follow on video I'd love to see the addition of a generator and transfer switch like you'd have in a Class A.
Very good and cool how you showed what it takes to have a good system. Thanks.
Thanks so much for watching! Cheers!
Most helpful video I've seen. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video - Thank you! 💜💚❤👍
The biggest problem for me is not the install, but the firmware updates. I don't design websites, but I think some major improvements could be made. I remember one site where you had to read down to the very bottom of the page and then click on this one word that was not even marked as access to the update!
Thanks for another nice Sunday morning video!
Mennn, your videos are always very helpful
Thanks...👍👍👍
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
Another great how-to video!!! Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers!
My God. Best video ever on changing to Solar. I wish you would do that same setup to a 48 volt system. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! A 48V system would not be beneficial in this setup. It's too small.
Awesome installation
Thanks! 🙂🙌
A pretty good installation. I did a similar one in my camper, but i used the 2kW Aims inverter/charger. With that system, the AC electrical is limited to 2kW, so I had to wire the inverter loads on a sub-panel, and wire the high-power circuits (AC and HotWater) directly to shore power. But the nice thing about the Victron Multiplus is that you don't need to do that, as the "hybrid inverter" will take extra power and 'mix' it with the battery power, all the way up to 30 amps. If I were to do it again, i'd use the Victron.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Hey @cpwatching5647, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Great information. Thanks Don
Great video
Another awesome detailed video guys! What a great install this is I'm sure the owners are very happy. Do you happen to have a link to the blind bolt kit you used to attached the ground from the lynx dist to the frame?
I used Anderson connectors on my truck for the DC-DC charger I have, its great. So great, that I cut the power cord to my Viair compressor and put an Anderson connector in the middle of that. Now I can power it from the rear bumper or connect the original clamps to battery up front.
Great Idea!
That is awesome! I’ll be doing something similar for my rig.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Love your videos. Would you have an update as to how the Multiplus performed mounted on its side? I would like to get the Mutiplus 2x 120 but I have an older model RV and the height in my bays are under 23 inch in height. I thought of doing a side mount.
Great video! Can't wait to follow your guide for my Grand Design Imagine. Did you reinforce the wall to install all the Victron components? Would the Victron Multiplus 3000 be enough to power the AC and would it have any heat issues in the storage bay? Thank you!
So helpful... excellent video.!
So glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Love your videos. Been waiting for this one. How come you grounded the solar charge controller to the inverter/charger? as oppose to doubling up on the ground stud on the lynx distributor? Can you do this with any inverter? I have used your videos to upgrade my rv's lead acid batteries with 2 100 amp hour battleborn batteries, the lynx distributor, and I am currently adding the victron MPPT Charger controller. I did find your videos after i upgrade my oem WFCO converter/charger for one that has a lithium battery switch and I am keeping my existing Xantrax 2000 Inverter. I am not sure if i can/should ground the solar charge controller to my Xantrax 2000 Inverter or what the alternative would be. Thanks for all these videos! i just let them play all day while I am at work!
I saw the GD and thought yes finely something I could use, as I have a 2500RL center bathroom, it's 29ft and have been pounding my brain how 🤔
I don't want to break the Artic Seal underneath and that one doesn't have the Artic package. Alas I'll figure it out, nice work as always and this gave me a couple helpful ideas 💡
Thanks again for your time...
my GD 22MLE (like in this video) has the Artic Package... it's a 2021
Have you looked at the new flexible solar panels from Bouge RV (CIGS)? Are they practical for RV roof installation and usage?
This was a great video. Probably the most comprehensive, yet snappy videos explaining this whole process. Well done. I have a fifth wheel, but I could adapt this to my situation very easily. Thank you!
😮😊just another GREAT VIDEO by Nate @ExploristLife
Thanks buddy 😊
Hey, @RVingwithG! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Very helpful. Thanks for all these videos yas do guys. ;)
Thanks!
Thanks @EXPLORISTlife for this great video! You've inspired me to tackle my tow behind travel trailer with 30A shore power. I hired what I thought and what many other people in my area thought was a good installer. He installed 2 ea 200watt solar panels, and a victron multiplus compact, 12v/ 2000va/80amp inverter charger and a ruching dollar mppt charge controller onto my trailer. I have 2 100ah lithium 12v batteries, but the about every 3 months the batteries are destroyed and I have to use the warranty to get new ones. I suspect the installer lacked the training to program the inverter or the charge controller correctly. After seeing your videos I'm going to attempt to correct this issue. Quick question, can I fully program the victron with the ve.bus bluetooth or do I need the mk3?
Hi Nate, great info and so well presented - as always! One question, you've mentioned stress testing your installations but I've looked around and can't find any information on how you do that. Any suggestions?
Hey Nate, good install. A few things to consider here:
The anderson connector on the truck could have benefited from a springback protected cover with grommets like the one supplied from trailer vision, likewise the anderson on the RV should have a cable sheath and rubber cover.
The terminals will corrode and fill with water/dust in no time.
For monitoring the the Cerbo GX would have been a great compliment to the system.
Hope it doesn't get too warm down there under load. Anyway keep up the good work mate👍
I used the Trailer Vision to cover up my SB50 connector on the truck and wrapped all wires in a cable sheathing to give it a nice clean look and protect the wires.
I have pretty much the same system on my Grand Design 2670MK, but since I have a 50amp system I went with the MultiPlus II. I did the wiring is a way that I think was a little easier, required less cable so it was less expensive, and has fewer connectors so there are less points of failure. For the shore power, instead of running a cable from the stock shore power line at the fuse box to the MultiPlus, I just disconnected the shore power wire from the fuse box, unscrewed the socket from the outside wall and pulled the whole thing out. I then drilled a hole (I think it was 2") and screwed the connector to the wall next to the storage compartment where the MultiPlus was, the stock wire was more than long enough to reach it directly. So I only needed one Romex 6/4 cable to go back to the fuse box for the 110v line, not two. For the 12v coach battery same idea, instead of running "battery relocation" wires from the new battery to the old battery location, i just rerouted the stock factory wires direct to the new battery. Once you drop the belly pan, pulling the wires from the old location to the new is very simple, and since the battery in the storage compartment is closer to the fuse box than the old one was, the wires are more than long enough. I've always felt that the less wires and connectors needed to get the job done, the better. Other than that, great video.
Neato! There are 100 different ways to do this stuff and I'm glad you found a way that works for your specific application. What you described won't work for most people as the wire lengths are often not long enough to accomplish that, and if somebody has Jack's, slides, or generators, running the factory 12v wiring to the lynx distributor will not deliver enough power to run as that factory wiring is only big enough to run the converter and not necessarily those larger oem items.
But yeah, glad you found what works for your specific application. They way I showed will work for 99% of applications, which is more what I'm interested it.
But other than that, good comment.
You guys are great awesome video. Now I have to dissect what I need out of it. LOL
Excellent video Nate. In a tight pass thru situation like this is it possible to mount and pre wire connections as much as possible and then slide the “equipment board” into the pass thru? Being over 225 lbs I doubt I could fit to mount and wire the equipment. Any draw backs?
Great video. If the RV had an onboard generator, how would you accommodate that with the equipment you have used in the video?
Great videos
Really nice job with the explanation of the whole process. One question you mentioned that the Victron inverter is not sized to handle the A/C. Would installing a Micro-Air easystart on the compressor work for a setup like this?
What an awesome video. I'm just lost with my inverter/charger on my camper.. it's plugged into an outlet? I'm assuming to power to 110v outlets?
Fantastic video broken down into easily explained and understood segments! When you discussed mounting the Multiplus horizontally, you mentioned stress testing they system when you finished the install. What were the results of the stress test and any heat issues with the Multiplus? As with the Imagine you worked on, I have the same issue with the lack of vertical height sufficient to install the Multiplus vertically. Also, did you make any note or measurements regarding the fan volume of the Multiplus while in use? Would it be feasible from a noise and heat standpoint to install the whole set up on the opposite side of the bulkhead underneath the bed?
Enjoyed your videos
Glad you like them!
Great video, I have been waiting for this since you announced a travel trailer upgrade video!
In our old travel trailer we followed your diagram and installed the older Victron MultiPlus Compact 12/2000/80, that we will be reinstalling in our new trailer.
When the power assist function of the inverter is on, will the 10 gauge wire be sufficient to
handle the extra amperage or, will I have to use as previously recommended, the 6 gauge wire?
Thanks for all you do!!
Hey, I really enjoy how you walk through everything !
I have a question though. When you install the DC to DC, to you need to cut off the original process of charging in some way ? I have a friend that probably bypass that step and he got his truck battery that litteraly overheat and broke because of the overload of the lithium. So I'm wondering about that.
Thanks !
Great video! by chance do you have a video that has a solar panel already installed on the roof by the manufacturer? I have a 24' Winnebago Micro Mini with a single solar panel on the roof and says it's prewired for an inverter but I'm not sure where to start and what I would need for a system like this. Thanks!
Nate. Great DIY/PRO videos. My question is, why not use the tined lugs vice regular copper lugs and get away from any corrosion on lugs and bare copper bus bars. Thanks for sharing all your great content.
All of the wire in the camper is un-tinned copper. I suspect that the ceiling and floor will rot away before our un-tinned wires need to be replaced due to corrosion. Tinned lugs are really only needed in marine/salty envrionments.
Great video, i always enjoy your detailed explanations. What am i missing because I am currently using an all in one EG4 3kw invertor, with a EG4 48v battery. Then all i had to do was run the AC output from the EG4 invertor to the RV shore input..done, very simple installation. The solar panels just plug into the EG4 and charge the EG4 battery, and i can charge the house batteries as well. I use my house rv batteries for emergencies. And the EG4 also has an AC input for a generator to charge the batteries quickly. however i am in a permanent location so perhaps that is different.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
This is amazing. I've watched so many videos on Victron's own channel and come away more confused every time.
Question: If the negative side of the Lynx is grounded, then why is the additional ground wire from solar to multi required?
Well done
Thanks! 🙂🙌
What are those video lights you are using for task lights? They look nice, compact and easy to use. Thanks for sharing! Hope you are enjoying those new headlamps.
Very informative video. I am planning to add solar to my 2022 Grand Designs Imagine 2600RB. We want the system to support running the A/C as well. What capacity battery bank and solar array should I be looking at? Thanks.
I have a 2019 sprinter 170 extended with 60K miles and many options including 10 inch display and cameras all around. Following your instructions, I added a 500 watt inverter (only about a 30amp draw) to position 6 in the tray using 2awg wire. Connecting to the X145 term #1 I ran a wire to a 200 amp isolator so that the inverter could only operate when the engine was running. This was for emergency purposes if my rerar 3500 watt inverter connected to 800ah lithium battery bank ever crapped out. After putting everything back the engine started right away. took it for a test drive and everything seemed to work as intended, BUT after driving 70 miles to camp on a friends mountain property ---the chassis battery was below 12 volts and it would not start I fact the entire MB side of the house was blacked out--NO LIGHTS ete Borrowing a charger and a long extension cord I was able to get the battery to 12.9 volts and restarted the van in the morning. It immediately went into fast idle mode (an option I did not select when I purchased the van) and this lasted about 10 minutes before slowing to 800 rpms. Driving it out of the mountains, there was a check engine light and glow plug light as well as a battery warning message --also none of the lane keeping or adaptive speed control would work.
After replacing the battery and charging it overnight, all functions returned. It has been to the dealer twice. At their suggestion, I disconnected the inverter from the tray. BUT it still does not appear that the alternator is charging the battery.. I returned from a 4500 mile trip camping around the Great Lakes last month. The van ran like a champ averaging 20mpg and never having an issue starting. Do you have any idea what could have gone so wrong? The dealer's head Sprinter Tech said since 2019 the alternator and entire electrical system is mighty touchy. He suggested if I would like to again connect into the OEM electrical system to do so at the battery.
👍👌❤️🇨🇦, thanks for all of the info, much appreciated
Thank you so much for watching! Cheers!
I like to connect to distribution panel(s) instead of the original A.C. and D.C. supply locations. Sometimes this is excessively difficult for one or the other, but not usually both A.C. and D.C.. Did you evaluate connection to distribution panel(s) or just decide to simplify to this universal approach?
Great video incredible detail!! but you eliminated a significant amount of storage 🤷🏻based on your trailer style/brand. Is there a smaller controller(s) that would work?
I'm building a custom project with an existing enclosed trailer and planning to install a Multiplus II 24V with my 24V battery bank (using 24V since I will transfer the system later to my off-grid homestead). I want to keep all the existing 12V trailer lights (where each has the negative/ground wire directly attached to the metal frame). Would the grounding to the frame (from Lynx distributor and/or Multiplus) still be the same setup as you're showing in the vid?
What's messing with my mind is having 12V and 24V grounded to same frame. I understand that the "grounds" from each little 12V LED trailer light are simply the negative connections to make them work - so basically the frame completes the "circuit" for the lights... Then attaching a 24V ground to the same frame is what's throwing my understanding off (I've heard of ground loops but don't fully understand them).
I'm still learning but just want to make sure I'm creating a safe setup. :)
Thanks for your videos! I'm learning a lot.
How did you install the grounding stud on the rv frame, did you use a pop rivet or some other tool and part
Wow! What a great video but the info is a little over my head. I’m new to RV’ing. I just bought a small Coleman (Dutchmen) travel trailer. I’m hoping to start with a small project as follows: I’d like to upgrade to a Battle Born house battery and add a Victron Orion 12-12/30 DC2DC charger with Anderson connectors for alternator charging as I drive, as you did here. Here’s my question…will adding the Orion cause complications with the existing OEM charging equipment? i.e. Can I add the Orion without removing and/or replacing the OEM AC/DC charger?
Great video. I'm curious why you didn't choose to use the 2x120 Multiplus II to separate the air conditioner circuit to operate from shore power only? Would have required some additional wiring, certainly, but would have ensured the owner did not have to 'remember' to not use the A/C when operating only off of battery power. Perhaps using just the a/c fan without cooling was a requirement? Or perhaps it was a budgetary decision not to opt for a 3kva inverter. Either way, great installation!
😄👍Good Stuff, Great Tips
Thanks for watching! Cheers!
Hi Nate,
Regarding the Victron Shunts. I see you selected the shunt with the wired meter.
What are your thoughts about the Victron SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor (w/Bluetooth)?
Cheers, Eric
Hi Nate, for the alternator, how do you add a switch turn it on and off as desired rather than always charge from the alternator when the engine is on?
GREAT job/video ... mentioning the approximate price of components and cables/parts could be very useful !!! cheers
Better than that, I shared where to find the EXACT price in the pinned comment.
Great video as usual. Still curious about the heat anticipation and how the stress test went out with the multiplus mounted horizontally.
We had no overheating alarms during our testing.
Nate, great work. One kinda significant point, the solar panel roof anchors were not installed properly. Ideally the surface between the roof and bracket should have been pre-caulked and then anchored (using something like Sikaflex or Lexel), then lap-sealed around all 4 sides and holes. The way it was done here, capillary action will draw water under the back of the plate on the one uncaulked side, and allow a leak or backerboard to rot.
Thanks for watching! The tape we used is specifically designed to form a waterproof gasket. I know this may not be enough for everybody (much like everthing I show on this channel 🤣), and if that's you, feel free to dicor/seal where/however you like.
@@EXPLORISTlife sorry, didn't see the tape, must have missed it. I agree, a Bituthene like product can work well in a "smoothish" surface.
For those that don't have a solid roof on their travel trailer, using channel strut into the crossbars of the roof make a secure mounting bracket for solar panels. If your travel trailer is an ultra lite and didn't come with a ladder attached, it's probably too thin to simply screw into and hold the panels.
This will be another classic video of the Explorist life channel.
In the video on Victron Energy RUclips channel titled Victron VW Van Electrics Install - Episode 3 Mains Electricity at 4:45 min they put a 3D printed protection cap for the Lynx system.
Maybe EL could sell these too in the future for people that are interested?
Ah, nice! Good idea!
Thank you, your builds and videos are top notch. My question is why are the battery disconnects on the positive side? On Battle Born’s website it says “A battery disconnect switch can be installed on the negative or positive leads of a battery and it will effectively disconnect the whole circuit. However, installing the switch on the negative lead adds additional safety.”
In years past when I worked on cars, RV’s and such the disconnect was always on the negative. Maybe you can comment.
I've actually never seen a switch on the negative side in-person on an actual build. I prefer the switch being on the positive side because it will always cut off power without question. A switch on the negative leaves the positive wire powered which in my mind seems dangerous; but I also know it is another fairly widely common approach.
The studs coming off the distributor appear to be aluminum or possibly steel, assuming they aren't nickle coated copper. Assuming they aren't plated copper, is this the suggested way of making this connection?
How do you determine the fuse amperage for each mega fuse in the distribution block
I have a similar trailer and I would like to know what are you doing to cool down the system.
Would this same diagram work with the Victron single phase 30A ( 3000W ) inverter?
So the multi plus two can be mounted side ways?...
Good to know.
For a 13v 3000va 120amp
Whats the watts?
Running 240v 15amp shore power or via batteries?
Seems half says 2400w and others 3000w?
22:10 while I can pull the fuse panel and access the are behind it, running the line from that side of the camper to the front where the inverter is would be, challenging (similar to your need to run underneath); however, the shore power inlet, being on the opposite side of the camper, on the same side as the inverter, and there exists a raceway along that side: can you think of a reason to not simply have the shore power intercept right where it comes in, instead of where it enters the factory panel?