The strut channel stuff is good advice, but solar panels are so cheap nowadays, I don't think it's worth putting angle brackets unless you're 1) going really far north, or 2) have already bought enough panels to completely max out your roof. If your roof isn't maxed out in space yet, the money is better spent on more panels. You can also get used panels off of Marketplace or Santan solar, or buy directly from a place like a1solar. You don't need RV specific panels, residential panels are engineered to withstand 140+ mph winds, so they're plenty tough.
I am a retired California licensed commercial/industrial electrician and used the galvanized shallow strut channel outside for 30 years to mount and support equipment. The Galvanizing of the channel keeps the strut from rusting. The only time you need to spray the channel with galvanizing spray paint is when you cut and file any burrs from your cut. This will keep the cut metal from rusting. You get no value in powder coating your channel. Chris.
You are correct, Chris. However, powder coating significantly reduces galvanic corrosion. He's attaching aluminum to steel - and adding water (rain and snow). Would have been better (and cheaper) to completely eliminate the aluminum angle and replace it with unistrut and galvanized steel pivot brackets. No need for powder coating. No corrosion.
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
@ZonaJim: Are the spacers touching roof, strut channel on top? Was thinking about that for water flow underneath strut to create space for water flow rather than impediment?
@@SteveJonesPerezCom I took a 12" x 24" sheet of UHMW plastic that I purchased on Amazon. I cut it on my table saw to 1" x 1-1/2" blocks, and drilled a hole in the center of each block. I then put a piece of butyl tape on one side of each block. I spaced the blocks about every two feet. The butyl tape was between the roof and the UHMW block. Then I put the strut rail on top and then ran a screw (with washer) through the strut rail and UHMW to secure it to the roof. I finished up by sealing around the block with Dicor, including the screw.
I installed 20 feet of channel last summer but I did not install spacers and now wish I did so debris can hopefully flow under the strut. I looked up UHMW and the cost was prohibited so I looked up rubber washers and could not really tell what kind of rubber they were selling and did not want neoprene. So I looked under my kitchen counter and found a 12x18 1/2" thick Poly Chopping Board which is some type of synthetic white plastic and it should do the trick with the help of my band saw. So I will copy you and do the same. Oh and by the way I replace my roof last summer with 3/4" plywood so mounting is not a issue.
Glad I found this. Was looking for a solid mounting solution that still allowed me to easily clean/maintain the roof of our RV. I think I found a winning solution here. Nice work.
Thanks! Yep, the cost for the aluminum strut channel is similar to the cost of the galvanized+powder coating. I don't think I would go with stainless. I would need to do a better cost analysis next time I do an install to decide between aluminum and galvanized+powder coat. There are some additional advantages of powder coat though.
@@travelnewtrails8232 You may want to check the cost comparison between steel and aluminum. Granger shows that aluminum is less then steel. Slotted Standard 1-5/8 in x 13/16 in Strut Channel, Aluminum, 14 ga., 10 ft $31.25 ea Slotted Standard 1-5/8 in x 13/16 in Strut Channel, Pre-Galvanized Steel, 14 ga., 10 ft $35.75 ea
I would go aluminum, especially if anodized. Steel will eventually start to rust where fasteners bite, at cuts, and likely underneath where moisture is trapped. I like being able to pivot the panels easily for cleaning. Angling toward sun isn't likely to net benefit, would need auto sun tracking to see improvements. I personally think a low profile mounting is way to go, and better to go larger panels to simplify mounting overall.
Well thought out.. Many great advantages of mounting this way. I especially like that you can remove and upgrade for personal use and for selling the unit. I am. all over this technique.
This is the best idea I have seen regarding panel mounts on an RV roof. Could you elaborate a little bit on how you secured the strut channel to the roof? What kind of bolts/anchors did you use? What was the spacing between the bolts? Do you have any issues with water drainage with the strut channels blocking the flow to the side of the camper?
Thanks for the comment Bruce and the good questions! I just screwed the channel to the roof using the same bolts that came with the solar panel angle mounts. The screws are fairly heavy electro-galvanized grabber bolts and they attach very securely in to the roof deck and roof trusses. I got a roof plan from the RV manufacturer so I knew where the roof trusses were and then I spaced the bolts about every other roof truss. I put a blob of DAP down first, screwed through the DAP and then put another blob on top of the bolt head to ensure it sealed well. I have not had any problem with drainage. The water just drains to the back of the coach and then to the gutters.
@@travelnewtrails8232 Thank you for this video and post! This is a great improvement on my idea of using Eternabond to attach U- or C-channels to the roof (for more surface area), then screwing solar panel mounts to the channel for security. Using strut channels is even more screwless and more flexible. What do you think of using Eternabond instead of screwing the strut channels to the roof? Also, I just ordered 200W 24V panels from Newpowa for double the wattage from the same MPPT controller and AWG wire. It matters when using expensive solar charge controllers like Victron!
@@travelnewtrails8232 i was worrying that with vibration and flex the channel would rub against the roof, thinking to use neoprene or something to use as a barrier or some method to raise the channel - i have a curved roof anyway so i may have to go that direction, any ideas for a good raised roof mount?
Hi Bruce. Check out my followup videos. ( ruclips.net/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/видео.html ) I go into more detail and answer a lot of questions asked in the comments.
Damn, your a genius. Just ordered my first solar system and I could not think of a way to install with the ability to tilt, you did figured this out. I am so grateful.
I thought about doing an "installation" video but it was to much of a pain to try to do the install and video at the same time and I wasn't getting a heck of a lot of help from my teenager. ;-) The strut channel was screwed to the roof through the holes that are in the bottom of the channel. I aligned them to make sure I screwed into the roof trusses. Before driving a screw I would put a large blob of LAP sealant down and then drive the screw through it. Then I would come back and put another large blob of LAP on top of the screw head to seal everything well. The wiring to the roof was done at the factory. All Grand Design trailers Reflection on up are coming pre-wired to the roof starting with model year 2020.
I watched the video and was sold to the idea. Then I read the comments and thought that those who raised the water drainage concern made an excellent point. I was mulling this over in my head and had this potential improvement that I am putting out here for review and criticism: what about putting a certain number of flat stainless washers between the track and roof? Benefits: 1) leaves room for the water to drain under the track; 2) washer count can be adjusted to account for minor roof curvature. What do you all think.
@@bee3po122 I have my panels being delivered today, and will be mounting them wither this weekend or the one following. I will post pictures. Meanwhile, I decided to make blocks of 3/4"X3" by 3" out of PVC boards (since I have leftovers). These provide more surface and stability to put the track on, and will not rust or rot. I plan to use 1 1/2" stainless steel screws to go through strut, block, decking and into the aluminum trusses that my RV roof is set on, Planner to locate trusses, pre-drill hole and dry mount, then remove everything, put Dicor under the blocks, on the track where it touches the blocks, and in the drill hole, and finally over the stainless screws at the very end.
I though about floating the channel off of the roof but decided against it for a few reasons. One is that with the strut channel against the roof all of the forces that are being applied to it will be evenly distributed along the roof along the entire length of the strut channel segments. If they are floated off of the roof then those forces will be directed onto the roof only on the risers. I'm not convinced that a RV roof was designed to support these directed forces so I took the route that I did. Regarding drainage, I have not seen any problems with that at all and I have been in some downpours. The water ends up just draining either forward or rearward and then to the side and ends up still coming off the draining spouts that are attached to the rig at the factory. With snow and ice it is the same. As it melts the water flows the same.
@@travelnewtrails8232 Great points made. I haven't mounted anything yet, so I will mull over your comments. One thing is for sure, I want to do my best to hit the risers, rather than just randomly screw the strut in the roof sheating (which is itself attached to the roof trusses... but has the whole rubber roof acting as a wrapper to eliminate any lifting forces on the sheating...also the struts are perforated throughout. It a tough choice...but I appreciate your feedback relative to the concern about water accumulation.
good video, there were a few idea gems in there. The main concept of the struts supporting a tilting L support for the solar panels is brilliant. solves most curved roof problems and does it efficiently and elegantly with added versatility and clearance for airflow under the panels.
Yep. The strut channel stays attached to the roof but anything attached to it (i.e. panels) can come off without leaving any damage to the roof. Fully modular design. :-)
I did something similar, but instead of using those struts I used roof ladder racks which bolt into the sides of the trailer -- the thing I like about that is it doesn't require me to bolt things to the roof itself, which decreases the chance of water damage. It also puts the panel a bit further above the roof (if you want it to) which allows more airflow, which allows better cooling which can let the panels last longer. You do need to make sure the wind load on the panels isn't below average, but most can handle it fine (an engineer friend of mine ran the numbers and I'd be fine up to something like 130mph, as though I can pull it that fast anyway.... =])
A WORD OF WARNING!! The concept is great, but Ron's comment about placing the attaching screws at the roof trusses bears more emphasis. The roofing decks of most RV's are pretty thin and flexible. Strut channels are not. If you locate any attaching screws between the trusses, as soon as you place any weight nearby they will likely strip out. If you are not as fortunate as Ron and cannot locate a diagram showing the location of your roof trusses, be sure to set the strut channels in place on your roof AND BEFORE DRIVING ANY SCREWS move along the strut channel to identify any areas where your weight causes the roof to flex away from the strut channel. Be sure NOT to drive any attaching screws in those areas. The outer rails are likely to have little or no areas of significant flexing given the outside frame of the roof, but the inner rails most likely will have several areas in which attaching screws will not hold.
In which case, wouldn't it be best to meet the center as two cross struts which bolt together for added structure yet use the outer strut screws for secure mounting?
Most definitely!!! Another thing to think about is the stress place on the channel and then onto its attachment points. Screws in thin plywood are much more easily ripped out due to the forces applied via wind and drag. Some people in the comments have suggested putting "risers" between the strut channel and the roof to allow for better water drainage. I'm not so sure that is a good idea structurally. Having the strut channel flush against the roof allows for any forces applied to it to be evenly distributed and transferred to the roof along the full length of the strut channel segments rather then just the individual attachment points. RV roofs are not designed to have lots of stuff attached to them. Distributing the load is probably a good idea.
Absolutely! Just came off the roof of a custom 1 off tiny camper & can visually see where the cross bracing in the roof is, but unsure what material was used! Installing 4x100w Renogy panels once I'm sure this will work in my specific situation. Appreciate everyone's input on this post
One of my sons owns a garage door company and I've been studying their opening systems to figure out how to build a Solar Panel raising system by using the cross shaft that the garage springs mount to the house headers via bearing mounted brackets. Thinking of using the angle brackets that actully are used on openers when attached to the doors and bellcranks. I think the pulleys can be converted to push pull that bracket, and with that bracket attached to the solar array it can lift them on one side like you are doing with the manual prop up arms. And with those shaft bearings they can handle a lot of torque and loading. Plus multiple pulleys/ bell cranks and brackets you could use one arm between two panels + on the ends and get a very strong wind resistance lifting system. And the turning/ rotating/ lifting mechanism could be as easy as using a 12 volt electric winch with or without the cable to raise and lower. My thoughts are to eliminate the winch drum and cable and attach the winch motor directly to the end of the cross tube and put stop switches in the full down and full up positions. This would mean you could easily use a winch motor electric remote control to raise and lower the solar panels from the ground. Basically a low budget "Jack Shaft Opener". And all 12 volt! I have a lot more ideas that expand on that design that would also make the panels capable of sun tracking by mounting the panels to ao=nother cross shaft at the panel centers and some small accuators to do the angle changes from there. Good Video, and I will definitly be borrow some of your builds ideas after I get my Bus back on the road. ((Priority) New Upgraded Transmission going in)
Your idea is fantastic! I think there's some needed planning mounting the channel. I understand why you didn't elaborate what hardware to mount the channel due to different applications. Thanks for sharing your idea!
Hi Andrew! Definitely! The modularity and ease of attaching make it awesome. With the cost of the solar/inverter/battery after market installs you have to make things portable to your next rig(s) to get the most out of your investment.
I'm really liking your idea there and thinking of doing something similar, though I think I would install a 3/8" spacer between roof and strutt, connection points. That would allow the roof to flex when necessary "stepping between roof joists" and alleviate damming or collection of water on the roof next to strut, preventing corrosion or fatiguing screws into joists. Just wondered if you considered that approach. Very nice video and aproach.
I used 6" strips of LLPT double sided tape to mount the channels. I left 2 " gap before laying another 6" piece to allow water to flow. I initially used the panel feet with the channels but when I upgraded with wider panels I just placed the mounting feet on each end of the panels rather than the sides and clamped them in the channels without issue. I sold the camper last summer after 5 years without issue. Another benefit of using double sided tape was no flex wear on the roof from the channels which happened to a friend of mine that screwed the channels into the roof.
@@rangervapes571 Thought about using tape as well, but decided against it, the reason being is it would only be attached to the membrane of the roof. With proper installation of mounts, there is zero chance of moisture intrusion. Although just like any moisture barrier it must be routinely inspected and repaired as necessary. The problem folks have with leaking is poorly installed roof membrane and or sealant application from the manufacturer, and lack of maintenance from the owner. Best of luck to you with your installation, spring is around the corner, enjoy.
Love the unistrut idea... we've been using unistrut to mount solar panels in other places as well, but also using aluminum unistrut since it is way lighter.
Thanks! Aluminum strut is lighter but it is more expensive (though after I powder coated I’m not so sure). The weight isn’t really an issue I don’t think however I will be taking a second look at the aluminum strut when I do this again.
Very Nice presentation. Thank you! I just finished mounting (2) 250W panels but without the tilt brackets at this time. I had to use the strut channels as my RV roof from Heartland had 48" spacing between the aluminum rafters. The roof has 1/4 plywood and styrofoam everywhere else and would not hold the panels property. I used the Z brackets you mentioned directly to the struts, (3) 6' sections. I ended up using 3 strut channels to mount side by side vs the length of the RV as items like the fridge vents TV were in the way. The curve of the roof was not an issue as the panels just lean left and right by about a 1/2". Heartland does not supply any information to the customer as to locations or layout of the roof. They only have a brochure that shows how the roof was made. I had to use a Walabot Plus to locate the rafters. I have a 30' TT Northwind. I wish I found your video earlier as it was a 3 month hair pulling experience to get this engineered out as I did not want to damage the membrane but needed the support to hold two large 61"x31" Sunpower SPR-X20-250-BLK panels. The thought of the panels ripping off at 60 MPH causing possible catastrophic damage to others on the road let alone my TT would kill me.
@Yasso Karim so far they are awesome They hold up to 70mph passing speed on the highway, (tires on RV rated at 65 but I cheat for passing very briefly) and I am able to get 88% or 440W under full sun / peak sun here in Phoenix AZ at 78° F. Yes they are re claimed used to me from a company called Santan Solar at $55.00 each. Their size allows room on the roof to walk around to clean the panels.
I absolutely love this system. A major game changer for intstalling pv on an rv roof. You had me laughing about the powder coating. It's always great to include the wife in the decisions, all the decisions. LOL. But brother, galvanized, unpainted struts will outlast several human lifetimes being in any weather 24/7.
Except for one thing, Jack. Dissimilar metals can cause some real corrosion issues over time. Unistrut is steel. Yes, it's galvanized. That's great. But having aluminum angle in direct contact with the strut steel will cause corrosion. Water and accumulated snow will speed up the corrosion. That is, unless you powder-coat either the unistrut and/or the aluminum. So... his wife is a genius. LOL
easy fix. use galvanized angles. also power coated. but i would like to here how this has held up to years, and cyclone winds, snow,etc.
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One issue he avoids with the powder coating is the stans and streaks that come from when water interacts with metal as they leach off that original coating.. I have seen several campers that have this at the summer camp park lots that make fairly new units look old like leaf tannin staining.. He did say it was close to overkill but his choice so you do you..
This is great! This is almost exactly the sort of set up i was trying to design in my head in a theoretical manner due to not having yet bought a trailer ! But you are spot on target for the same factors I'm aiming for, the adaptability ( rather than using the term flexible cause its not) of the struts & the cooler air flow system & accessibility & ease of squeegee access thanks to being able to tilt them, meaning up, angle them, down, use my full size picnic table to stand on & professional extension handled tools, move the table once after washing & drying , finish up. Take a rest , back up, reset angle, back down! I'm somewhat handicapped & need a set up that allows me to supervise whomever I'll be paying to do this so it needs a very simple system ! Lol & I'll be including a clip on soapy h2o deflector so it wont filthify ( not a word? Idc! Its what i mean!) the trailer in the process of the cleaning . I intend to be generous with the coiled stretchy cables i intend to use to allow the panels to be lifted without putting strain & use simple releasable connectors so if the panels need to be off the trailer for sun to be able to hit directly, it should be easy to do! I hope!
Thank you for showing how to put these in and which part to use to attach the solar panels to the roof. I'm going to attach the super struts to a suv's roof rack and I was trying to figure out how to connect it all - looking at the choices in the hardware store was a bit overwhelming so your video helps with the brackets too as I ordered a set of those too - I was thinking of attaching them evenly with the struts, using the brackets but loose the ability to move the panels as easily so it's good to know I can attach the panels without the brackets if I want to.
Thank you very much for 2 great videos. Absolutely awesome. I did go in and read comments regarding how you attached the rails to your roof as you really never covered this subject. I have seen where a person was just using a double sided tape. That made me nervous. But I found the answer, thank you again.
I would love to know this answer too. Did you screw the uni-strut? If you are only using double sided tape, you are really only attaching to the roof membrane.
Just found this video! Excellent idea, and explanation, thank you for sharing. Epoxy appliance paint holds up well outdoors. You might think about using rivet nuts on your angle pieces that hold up the panel when tilted instead of the wing nuts and washers. It is less parts to lose and it would make for faster set up/tear down.
Wanted to thank you for sharing this because I am just now getting ready to install two 200 watt panels on top of our Coachman Orion RV. I just need to find a source for all of the hardware (strut channel and angle mount brackets) then I'll go to work with the installation; thinking Lowe's or Home Depot will have what I need. Everything about your installation is perfect to include having a way to tilt the panels towards the sun once you are at your camp site or even at home.
That’s what I used on my Ford Transit Van. Very easy to install on the van. The cross braces can be moved anywhere on the rails which makes it easy to install any size panels. The Unistrut/Superstrut rails cost about $20 each at Home Depot or Lowe’s. They are 10 feet long. Many different fittings are available. Mine have been on the roof for over three years with no sign of rust or corrosion. I have 10ft rails running down both sides. I used four cross rails that are about 5 ½ ft long. To adjust the height to clear the roof just use “L” brackets on the main rails. No holes need to be drilled on a Transit Van since the bolt holes are pre-installed. Just remove the rubber caps. The nuts and bolts for assembly come in three sizes, ¼, ⅜ or ½ inch. I used ⅜ but that is really overkill. I used ¼ “ on my cargo trailer and I think that is big enough.
what gauge strut did you use? how beefy is the strut going across the van, can you put a deck up there to sit on? Wondering if they would hold that weight?
I plan on installing more panels soon on my Lance 1685. The original owner had a factory installed 100 watt panel using typical brackets spaced about 8" apart. Obviously they weren't intending to hit cross members. I'll probably do the same but will be getting more detail on roof construction first so at least I know what i've done. Having watched multiple videos regarding panel install I really appreciate the effort put into this important subject from all. So, thank you for adding your design and construction information.
I have posted some follow up videos that might answer more of your questions. ( ruclips.net/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/видео.html )
@@travelnewtrails8232 I'll check them out tonight-thanks.
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For improved aerodynamics thus fuel savings and maybe even some noise reduction might I suggest a wind deflector wing at the front edge of the camper..
GREAT video!!!! Just came across your video today. Picking up a new Winnebago Micro Minnie 2108 this week and was agonizing on how to mount my solar panels to the roof. Thanks for making my day!!!!!!
Very interesting video. Good job! In case you haven't noticed, the mountain views from your house are REDICULOUS!!! Nice hat, by the way! Tony has one just like it. We're looking forward to future videos. Say hi to the fam, especially "The Boy". Happy camping & safe travels! Tony & Monica's Plan B, Michigan
This video was really helpful, thank you! I have a 2017 rockwood mini lite 1905s. I understand there are only cross members around the AC opening. Should I be trying to mount at least one side of the strut channel close enough to the roof edge that I catch some of the metal framing? I assume it's hopefully okay on the inner strut channel to just screw down to the laminated roof materials. I love the strut channel method you're showcasing here, I just was not sure about the method for attaching the channel, since the roof does not really have any cross members. Any help on this is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
I just found your video and WOW, what an awesome way to mount anything to the roof of a trailer! I will be doing this to my 8x16 toyhauler this next spring. I see adding a rack for kayaks and solar panels. I will be making my panels tiltable too. Thanks for sharing, R
Awesome setup, would love to do this with a single frame connecting all the panels and about 3 linear actuators to tilt them automatically. Would have to come up with some some sort of locking system if i don't want to get up there and unlock the frame every time. To the drawing board. Thank for the inspiration.
I though the same thing at first. Then after I got everything installed to the strut channel I saw that due to the compound curvature of the roof I wasn't able to lift the panels together because they would bind. If you could create a "rack" from the strut channel that would even out all of the curves it would probably work. That would probably require floating the channel off the roof which add extra height and weight to the system and would direct all forces applied to the system to only the points where it attached to the roof rather than spreading the forces evenly across the roof along the entire length of the strut channel segments. Part of the challenge is that RV roof probably aren't been designed with the idea that stuff will be mounted to the top of them.
Very interesting way of mounting solar panels. However, I am worried about how to secure the strut channel to the roof of our Class A. Our RV has almost no wood in the roof, except a 1/4" luaun plywood, which wouldn't hold a screw. The rest is various foam layers designed for insulation. There is an alluminum super structure built in, but how could I find the cross bars hidden in the roof? Now, I have heard about a special double-sided tape which I could imagine to put under the strut channel. What do you think about this?
Yeah, I should have probably covered that better. I do show it in the video but not as well as I could have. The basics are that I used the heavy duty screw bolts that came with the panel mounts to attach the strut channel to the roof. I obtained a roof plan for my rig from my RV dealer to inform me where to drive the screws (though it is not hard to figure out where they are if you can't get a roof plan). I drove the screws through the slots in the bottom of the strut channel. Before driving the screws I put down a large blob of LAP sealant then drove the screw through the sealant and then put another large blob of LAP sealant on top of the screw head to seal everything really well. I hope this helps. Knowing this when you go back as re-watch the video it might be clearer.
Check out my followup videos ( ruclips.net/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/видео.html ). They have more details and answer a lot of the questions asked in the comments.
WE all have own ideas What is best, and I would agree that This way is a good one …. BUT, “L” channel could do the same thing 😮 at HALF the weight and cost 💲
We used Super Struts with kone nuts, and #14 Stainless steel screws and 1 1/2 washers thru the strut rails into the rafters. Also put Silkaflex at the washers.
❤’d your message…. Thank for sharing…. I just bought a 2021 Jayco Eagle 40 foot travel trailer 332CBOK. I just bought 348 V batteries rack style melt and plan on doing 120V dual inverters for 50 amp off grid performance. where did you get your tilt brackets?
This is a brilliant idea. By being able to adjust the position of the panels, its possible to avoid shade. However, the wire would have to be in some kind of weather resistant flexible conduit.
Good job! I was thinking about these shallow unistrut rails. I have seen similar setup before, but didn't pay close attention his the lifting is done. I see there are two L shape profiles. Rails are the way to go. Drilling dozens of holes in roof is sloppy and asking for troubles ;)
Thank you for asking that. I can’t believe he didn’t mention that in this video. Not sure if that was intentional or he just likes to hear himself talk a lot. So frustrating.
Good Morning. I have my Channel and two solar panels. The channel is 10ft an the Solar panel is 64in. that is 4in longer than half the channel. So I was thing two cut the panel in half so only 2 in over on each end. I was going to use double back tape to the channel and also use the # RN-2520-05 Rubber nuts threaded inserts 1/4 - 20 Thread . What are your thoughts on this verses 4in over hand on the ends on a one pace channel. Thank you again for your help. Jack
Thank you for the information. I want to do my install the same way. Hopefully I can get the roof layout for my rv. Question 1. Do you need to use any caulking of any sort when screwing the struts down? I have never screwed anything to my roof before.
Hello, Great Idea !! I found the unistrut that I'm going to use but your links are not valid anymore, So I'm Wondering Where Did the Angle Brackets with slots and holes Come from and What is it Called ?? Can't Find anything that Resembles your brackets. Anyone Else That's Familiar with those brackets with the slots and holes it would be appreciated !! Thanks Greg
I went with the aluminum strut channels with the powder coating for the extra layer of rust protection, I wasn't biting on the extended warranty though
I would suggest adding a couple brass washer under the bottom of the strut channel at channels mounting point, then the water could flow underneath the channels.
Actually water drainage is not a problem. Water just flows forward or aft and then to the sides and off. Adding "risers" under the strut channel could potentially cause structural issues. Having the channel flush against the roof allows for all of the forces applied to the channel to be equally distributed and transferred to the roof along the full length of the strut channel segments rather than only on the "risers". It also lessens the stress on the individual screws that attach the channel to the roof. Remember that RV roofs are not really designed to have stuff attached to them, especially at focused points.
Hi Don. Thanks! I started out recording everything but it was a beast to try to edit. I couldn't get the flow and timeline to work out so I just did this instead.
that is a fantastic idea, using the taller struts will allow me to run the wiring in the strut channel. Maybe I missed it... but how did you attach the strut to the roof!!!
Great video with a lot of good information I am fixing to start building a cargo trailer. I am just waiting on the delivery now so I will definitely be using this idea for my panels and I will look forward to looking at your other videos
Actually no, there doesn't seem to be any issues with drainage. The water seems to drain froward and aft and then to the sides, still flowing off the roof in the spouts that are attached. I have been in some real downpours as well and the drainage seemed fine. Putting spacers/risers under the channel might be less desirable structurally speaking because when the channel is flush with the roof any forces applied to the strut channel will be evenly distributed across the roof along the entire length of the channel segments rather than only on the risers where it is attached to the roof. I'm not sure RV roofs are designed with the idea of hard attachment points to take that stress not to mention the screws used to attach the strut channel to the roof.
You have good information. I have a box van that I am converting into a RV. My solar panels are attached to unistrut that I bolted on top of a ladder rack. As you pointed out, most solar panels that I see are mounted too close to the roof. My Grape Solar panels recommended a minimum of four inches clearance between the back face and the roof. I chose the hot dipped galvanized finish, it offers better weather protection than the gold zinc coated unistrut but is less expensive than stainless steel unistrut. If my unistrut was in direct contact with my roof, I probably would have done the same thing you did by coating zinc unistrut. Pregalvanized is not galvanized.
Dam you gave me the key to my Casita roof top solar build. I will need to have the una strut raised abut 17 inches. off the location where the support locations on a fiberglass rv that has been refereed to as an egg.
Great idea. My big question is how exactly did you attach the struts to the roof so they will not blow off during driving? How well (speeds) have they held up? Can you do a video for this??
The strut channel is screwed into the roof into the roof trusses every 2nd or 3rd truss. It is attached VERY securely. Driving freeway speeds it not an issue and neither are high winds. I have been in high winds a few times (across Kansas, between Las Vegan and Mesquite NV, etc) and they are attached as securely now as the day I installed them. I briefly cover how they were attached in the video but to give a more detailed review, I first got a roof plan for my rig from my dealer so I would know where the roof trusses were. If you can't het a roof plan it is not difficult to discover their locations though. I screwed the channel to the roof into the roof trusses by first putting a generous blob of LAP sealant down, screwing though it and then putting another generous blob on to to make sure it was sealed.
Thank you!!!! We're in the middle of our cargo trailer build and have been trying to figure out how to get the solar panels to tilt. Perfect plan!! I'm grateful for the information. Saving the video for our build 😊
Nice build, did you consider 80/20 T-Slot aluminum? With the slot bolts would just slide within the channel, the aluminum won't rust and would not need to be power coated. Just a thought......
80/20 Is my go-to material for this kind of thing. Extremely durable, lightweight, and a seemingly endless number of accessories available including wire/cable management.
Interesting idea however I think the strut channel is a little more straight forward to work with for this application though. You don't have to drill any holes to attach it to the roof like you would with 80/20 because you just screw/bolt through the existing holes. The strut channel cone nuts are easier to place and move when you already have stuff attached to the channel because they can be placed without needing to slide them in from the end (which could be blocked if you already have stuff attached). They make strut channel in aluminum as well so that addresses the weight issue however it is almost 2x as expensive as the steel. After powder coat the aluminum and the steel come out to about the same price. On my next install I am leaning toward the aluminum strut channel if I can source it quickly/cheaply enough.
We used unistrut at work before i retired. Thanks for sharing your system. I need to know closer the parts you used to mount the panels to the strut. Thanks again it's a lot more versatile than what I had planned.
HI Don. I used the screw bolts that came with the angle brackets to attach the channel to the roof along with Dicor to make sure everything is sealed. See my 2 followup videos where I go into more detail and answer common questions I got in the comments of this video.
Super video! I have been going round and round debating my install because I have so many challenges and must maximise the limited space I have. I will be living 100% off-grid, through winter, in a 4 season rig tested to 0 degrees. No grid power option. The channel was the epiphany! I can get 8 250w Sunpower panels on now, but still want to work out 4 more. Once the 8 are on, this channel idea gives me the flexibility to play with scissor-deployment, or slides, or something from on top or beneath the already mounted ones. Thanks for this! Really simplifies things and is getting me moving forward. I have limited time to build this. I'll have 3kw collection and 13kw storage. Better be enough! :-)
Hi Glenn. There are two rows of strut channel per row of panels. The tilt mount attach to the strut on both ends. The tilt mounts can actually tilt either way (inboard or outboard). Here is the link to the tilt mounts: tinyurl.com/ya56r88w . Notice how each end has a knob (with a wing nut on the opposite side) and the vertical piece can be moved to any set of hols to change the angle of the panel.
Hi Glenn. I have posted some followup views that might answer your question ( ruclips.net/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/видео.html ). Check them out.
I love the system for installation you have, But, That panel mount is for up to a 120 Watt Panel I learned. It fits my 200W panels but has two different lengths of angle rails 22" and 28". When installing the 200W panel you can't get your mitts on the knobs when the panels are lowered and mounted end to end.
I know this is a three year old video, but I sure appreciate finding it! Thanks for posting.
The strut channel stuff is good advice, but solar panels are so cheap nowadays, I don't think it's worth putting angle brackets unless you're 1) going really far north, or 2) have already bought enough panels to completely max out your roof. If your roof isn't maxed out in space yet, the money is better spent on more panels. You can also get used panels off of Marketplace or Santan solar, or buy directly from a place like a1solar. You don't need RV specific panels, residential panels are engineered to withstand 140+ mph winds, so they're plenty tough.
I am a retired California licensed commercial/industrial electrician and used the galvanized shallow strut channel outside for 30 years to mount and support equipment. The Galvanizing of the channel keeps the strut from rusting. The only time you need to spray the channel with galvanizing spray paint is when you cut and file any burrs from your cut. This will keep the cut metal from rusting. You get no value in powder coating your channel.
Chris.
You are correct, Chris. However, powder coating significantly reduces galvanic corrosion. He's attaching aluminum to steel - and adding water (rain and snow). Would have been better (and cheaper) to completely eliminate the aluminum angle and replace it with unistrut and galvanized steel pivot brackets. No need for powder coating. No corrosion.
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
The “larger device” such as a “power station” are just expensive, fancy names and packaging of a battery.
Wow you’re the guy that came up with this idea.
I just finished my install today. I placed 3/8" UHMW spacers under the rails It worked perfectly.
@ZonaJim: Are the spacers touching roof, strut channel on top? Was thinking about that for water flow underneath strut to create space for water flow rather than impediment?
@@SteveJonesPerezCom I took a 12" x 24" sheet of UHMW plastic that I purchased on Amazon. I cut it on my table saw to 1" x 1-1/2" blocks, and drilled a hole in the center of each block.
I then put a piece of butyl tape on one side of each block. I spaced the blocks about every two feet. The butyl tape was between the roof and the UHMW block. Then I put the strut rail on top and then ran a screw (with washer) through the strut rail and UHMW to secure it to the roof. I finished up by sealing around the block with Dicor, including the screw.
I installed 20 feet of channel last summer but I did not install spacers and now wish I did so debris can hopefully flow under the strut. I looked up UHMW and the cost was prohibited so I looked up rubber washers and could not really tell what kind of rubber they were selling and did not want neoprene. So I looked under my kitchen counter and found a 12x18 1/2" thick Poly Chopping Board which is some type of synthetic white plastic and it should do the trick with the help of my band saw. So I will copy you and do the same. Oh and by the way I replace my roof last summer with 3/4" plywood so mounting is not a issue.
Thank you...I am an electrician so I use struts all the time. Your use for that application is brilliant 👏
Hi Samuel! Thanks for the comment and the complement.
Glad I found this. Was looking for a solid mounting solution that still allowed me to easily clean/maintain the roof of our RV. I think I found a winning solution here. Nice work.
I am SOOOO thankful you finally got off the powder coating!
The struts are also available in aluminum (50% more cost) or stainless steel (6 times more cost). Thanks for the video.
Thanks!
Yep, the cost for the aluminum strut channel is similar to the cost of the galvanized+powder coating. I don't think I would go with stainless. I would need to do a better cost analysis next time I do an install to decide between aluminum and galvanized+powder coat. There are some additional advantages of powder coat though.
@@travelnewtrails8232 You may want to check the cost comparison between steel and aluminum. Granger shows that aluminum is less then steel.
Slotted Standard 1-5/8 in x 13/16 in Strut Channel, Aluminum, 14 ga., 10 ft $31.25 ea
Slotted Standard 1-5/8 in x 13/16 in Strut Channel, Pre-Galvanized Steel, 14 ga., 10 ft $35.75 ea
@@jimthode I'll check it out. Thanks.
I would go aluminum, especially if anodized. Steel will eventually start to rust where fasteners bite, at cuts, and likely underneath where moisture is trapped.
I like being able to pivot the panels easily for cleaning. Angling toward sun isn't likely to net benefit, would need auto sun tracking to see improvements.
I personally think a low profile mounting is way to go, and better to go larger panels to simplify mounting overall.
@@travelnewtrails8232 -- Not really. Powder Coating always seems to start breaking off over time. I personally would go with aluminum.
Well thought out.. Many great advantages of mounting this way. I especially like that you can remove and upgrade for personal use and for selling the unit. I am. all over this technique.
This is the best idea I have seen regarding panel mounts on an RV roof. Could you elaborate a little bit on how you secured the strut channel to the roof? What kind of bolts/anchors did you use? What was the spacing between the bolts? Do you have any issues with water drainage with the strut channels blocking the flow to the side of the camper?
Thanks for the comment Bruce and the good questions!
I just screwed the channel to the roof using the same bolts that came with the solar panel angle mounts. The screws are fairly heavy electro-galvanized grabber bolts and they attach very securely in to the roof deck and roof trusses. I got a roof plan from the RV manufacturer so I knew where the roof trusses were and then I spaced the bolts about every other roof truss. I put a blob of DAP down first, screwed through the DAP and then put another blob on top of the bolt head to ensure it sealed well. I have not had any problem with drainage. The water just drains to the back of the coach and then to the gutters.
@@travelnewtrails8232 Thank you for this video and post! This is a great improvement on my idea of using Eternabond to attach U- or C-channels to the roof (for more surface area), then screwing solar panel mounts to the channel for security. Using strut channels is even more screwless and more flexible.
What do you think of using Eternabond instead of screwing the strut channels to the roof?
Also, I just ordered 200W 24V panels from Newpowa for double the wattage from the same MPPT controller and AWG wire. It matters when using expensive solar charge controllers like Victron!
@@travelnewtrails8232 i was worrying that with vibration and flex the channel would rub against the roof, thinking to use neoprene or something to use as a barrier or some method to raise the channel - i have a curved roof anyway so i may have to go that direction, any ideas for a good raised roof mount?
Hi Bruce. Check out my followup videos. ( ruclips.net/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/видео.html ) I go into more detail and answer a lot of questions asked in the comments.
Any leaks yet ?
Damn, your a genius. Just ordered my first solar system and I could not think of a way to install with the ability to tilt, you did figured this out. I am so grateful.
Great DIY design! Found this video just before mounting my panels the conventional way. Will definitely be using your method. Thanks so much!
You could add a small section of flashing to the end of the panels towards the front to prevent air from trying to lift the panels while driving.
i think if you force the air upward you would get more lift than with the air going over and under the panels.
Lift is good......Less friction on the road......better on gas......HAHA
Nice. Showing how channels were attached and sealed would be great. Showing how roof penetration for wiring was handled and sealed would be supreme.
I thought about doing an "installation" video but it was to much of a pain to try to do the install and video at the same time and I wasn't getting a heck of a lot of help from my teenager. ;-)
The strut channel was screwed to the roof through the holes that are in the bottom of the channel. I aligned them to make sure I screwed into the roof trusses. Before driving a screw I would put a large blob of LAP sealant down and then drive the screw through it. Then I would come back and put another large blob of LAP on top of the screw head to seal everything well.
The wiring to the roof was done at the factory. All Grand Design trailers Reflection on up are coming pre-wired to the roof starting with model year 2020.
I watched the video and was sold to the idea. Then I read the comments and thought that those who raised the water drainage concern made an excellent point. I was mulling this over in my head and had this potential improvement that I am putting out here for review and criticism: what about putting a certain number of flat stainless washers between the track and roof? Benefits: 1) leaves room for the water to drain under the track; 2) washer count can be adjusted to account for minor roof curvature. What do you all think.
Would love to see some discussion of this idea!
@@bee3po122 I have my panels being delivered today, and will be mounting them wither this weekend or the one following. I will post pictures. Meanwhile, I decided to make blocks of 3/4"X3" by 3" out of PVC boards (since I have leftovers). These provide more surface and stability to put the track on, and will not rust or rot. I plan to use 1 1/2" stainless steel screws to go through strut, block, decking and into the aluminum trusses that my RV roof is set on, Planner to locate trusses, pre-drill hole and dry mount, then remove everything, put Dicor under the blocks, on the track where it touches the blocks, and in the drill hole, and finally over the stainless screws at the very end.
I though about floating the channel off of the roof but decided against it for a few reasons. One is that with the strut channel against the roof all of the forces that are being applied to it will be evenly distributed along the roof along the entire length of the strut channel segments. If they are floated off of the roof then those forces will be directed onto the roof only on the risers. I'm not convinced that a RV roof was designed to support these directed forces so I took the route that I did.
Regarding drainage, I have not seen any problems with that at all and I have been in some downpours. The water ends up just draining either forward or rearward and then to the side and ends up still coming off the draining spouts that are attached to the rig at the factory. With snow and ice it is the same. As it melts the water flows the same.
@@travelnewtrails8232 Great points made. I haven't mounted anything yet, so I will mull over your comments. One thing is for sure, I want to do my best to hit the risers, rather than just randomly screw the strut in the roof sheating (which is itself attached to the roof trusses... but has the whole rubber roof acting as a wrapper to eliminate any lifting forces on the sheating...also the struts are perforated throughout. It a tough choice...but I appreciate your feedback relative to the concern about water accumulation.
Cut blocks out of a HDPE 1/4” thick cutting board to raise the strut channel.
good video, there were a few idea gems in there. The main concept of the struts supporting a tilting L support for the solar panels is brilliant. solves most curved roof problems and does it efficiently and elegantly with added versatility and clearance for airflow under the panels.
Awesome idea. Can pull your panels and leave no holes behind!!
Yep. The strut channel stays attached to the roof but anything attached to it (i.e. panels) can come off without leaving any damage to the roof. Fully modular design. :-)
I did something similar, but instead of using those struts I used roof ladder racks which bolt into the sides of the trailer -- the thing I like about that is it doesn't require me to bolt things to the roof itself, which decreases the chance of water damage. It also puts the panel a bit further above the roof (if you want it to) which allows more airflow, which allows better cooling which can let the panels last longer. You do need to make sure the wind load on the panels isn't below average, but most can handle it fine (an engineer friend of mine ran the numbers and I'd be fine up to something like 130mph, as though I can pull it that fast anyway.... =])
I was thinking about something like that! great to hear that it works!
Did I miss where you discussed what you used to secure your channel to the roof? Glue, bolts, self-tapping screws?
A WORD OF WARNING!! The concept is great, but Ron's comment about placing the attaching screws at the roof trusses bears more emphasis. The roofing decks of most RV's are pretty thin and flexible. Strut channels are not. If you locate any attaching screws between the trusses, as soon as you place any weight nearby they will likely strip out. If you are not as fortunate as Ron and cannot locate a diagram showing the location of your roof trusses, be sure to set the strut channels in place on your roof AND BEFORE DRIVING ANY SCREWS move along the strut channel to identify any areas where your weight causes the roof to flex away from the strut channel. Be sure NOT to drive any attaching screws in those areas. The outer rails are likely to have little or no areas of significant flexing given the outside frame of the roof, but the inner rails most likely will have several areas in which attaching screws will not hold.
In which case, wouldn't it be best to meet the center as two cross struts which bolt together for added structure yet use the outer strut screws for secure mounting?
I don't see alot of people talking about well nuts. If you look at renogy installation manual you will be able to find a mention of well nuts.
Most definitely!!!
Another thing to think about is the stress place on the channel and then onto its attachment points. Screws in thin plywood are much more easily ripped out due to the forces applied via wind and drag. Some people in the comments have suggested putting "risers" between the strut channel and the roof to allow for better water drainage. I'm not so sure that is a good idea structurally. Having the strut channel flush against the roof allows for any forces applied to it to be evenly distributed and transferred to the roof along the full length of the strut channel segments rather then just the individual attachment points. RV roofs are not designed to have lots of stuff attached to them. Distributing the load is probably a good idea.
Absolutely! Just came off the roof of a custom 1 off tiny camper & can visually see where the cross bracing in the roof is, but unsure what material was used! Installing 4x100w Renogy panels once I'm sure this will work in my specific situation. Appreciate everyone's input on this post
@@travelnewtrails8232 this clown talks worse than a woman! 20 mins and never gets to the point!
One of my sons owns a garage door company and I've been studying their opening systems to figure out how to build a Solar Panel raising system by using the cross shaft that the garage springs mount to the house headers via bearing mounted brackets. Thinking of using the angle brackets that actully are used on openers when attached to the doors and bellcranks. I think the pulleys can be converted to push pull that bracket, and with that bracket attached to the solar array it can lift them on one side like you are doing with the manual prop up arms. And with those shaft bearings they can handle a lot of torque and loading. Plus multiple pulleys/ bell cranks and brackets you could use one arm between two panels + on the ends and get a very strong wind resistance lifting system. And the turning/ rotating/ lifting mechanism could be as easy as using a 12 volt electric winch with or without the cable to raise and lower.
My thoughts are to eliminate the winch drum and cable and attach the winch motor directly to the end of the cross tube and put stop switches in the full down and full up positions. This would mean you could easily use a winch motor electric remote control to raise and lower the solar panels from the ground. Basically a low budget "Jack Shaft Opener". And all 12 volt!
I have a lot more ideas that expand on that design that would also make the panels capable of sun tracking by mounting the panels to ao=nother cross shaft at the panel centers and some small accuators to do the angle changes from there.
Good Video, and I will definitly be borrow some of your builds ideas after I get my Bus back on the road. ((Priority) New Upgraded Transmission going in)
Good thinking.
great idea, i will put this in my bag of tricks. but it would have been nice to see you mount the channel to the roof.
Your idea is fantastic! I think there's some needed planning mounting the channel. I understand why you didn't elaborate what hardware to mount the channel due to different applications. Thanks for sharing your idea!
Great setup. The easiest attachment setup I've seen so far...and most cost effective.
Hi Andrew!
Definitely! The modularity and ease of attaching make it awesome. With the cost of the solar/inverter/battery after market installs you have to make things portable to your next rig(s) to get the most out of your investment.
"STRUT Channel" is also called "UNISTRUT".
What adhesive was used for the strut mount?
I'm really liking your idea there and thinking of doing something similar, though I think I would install a 3/8" spacer between roof and strutt, connection points. That would allow the roof to flex when necessary "stepping between roof joists" and alleviate damming or collection of water on the roof next to strut, preventing corrosion or fatiguing screws into joists. Just wondered if you considered that approach. Very nice video and aproach.
I used 6" strips of LLPT double sided tape to mount the channels. I left 2 " gap before laying another 6" piece to allow water to flow. I initially used the panel feet with the channels but when I upgraded with wider panels I just placed the mounting feet on each end of the panels rather than the sides and clamped them in the channels without issue. I sold the camper last summer after 5 years without issue. Another benefit of using double sided tape was no flex wear on the roof from the channels which happened to a friend of mine that screwed the channels into the roof.
@@rangervapes571 Thought about using tape as well, but decided against it, the reason being is it would only be attached to the membrane of the roof. With proper installation of mounts, there is zero chance of moisture intrusion. Although just like any moisture barrier it must be routinely inspected and repaired as necessary. The problem folks have with leaking is poorly installed roof membrane and or sealant application from the manufacturer, and lack of maintenance from the owner. Best of luck to you with your installation, spring is around the corner, enjoy.
Excellent points
Love the unistrut idea... we've been using unistrut to mount solar panels in other places as well, but also using aluminum unistrut since it is way lighter.
Thanks! Aluminum strut is lighter but it is more expensive (though after I powder coated I’m not so sure). The weight isn’t really an issue I don’t think however I will be taking a second look at the aluminum strut when I do this again.
The weight difference is minimal. Why spent the money? Powder coating is totally unnecessary.
How do you folks mount strut channel to the roof? Tapes, adhesives, screws?
How did you actually attach the strut channel to the roof? Lag bolts? Molly bolts?
Very Nice presentation. Thank you! I just finished mounting (2) 250W panels but without the tilt brackets at this time. I had to use the strut channels as my RV roof from Heartland had 48" spacing between the aluminum rafters. The roof has 1/4 plywood and styrofoam everywhere else and would not hold the panels property. I used the Z brackets you mentioned directly to the struts, (3) 6' sections. I ended up using 3 strut channels to mount side by side vs the length of the RV as items like the fridge vents TV were in the way. The curve of the roof was not an issue as the panels just lean left and right by about a 1/2". Heartland does not supply any information to the customer as to locations or layout of the roof. They only have a brochure that shows how the roof was made. I had to use a Walabot Plus to locate the rafters. I have a 30' TT Northwind. I wish I found your video earlier as it was a 3 month hair pulling experience to get this engineered out as I did not want to damage the membrane but needed the support to hold two large 61"x31" Sunpower SPR-X20-250-BLK panels. The thought of the panels ripping off at 60 MPH causing possible catastrophic damage to others on the road let alone my TT would kill me.
Thanks Andy! I’m glad you found the video useful. Good luck with your system.
Andy how do you like the Sunpower panels?
@Yasso Karim so far they are awesome
They hold up to 70mph passing speed on the highway, (tires on RV rated at 65 but I cheat for passing very briefly) and I am able to get 88% or 440W under full sun / peak sun here in Phoenix AZ at 78° F. Yes they are re claimed used to me from a company called Santan Solar at $55.00 each. Their size allows room on the roof to walk around to clean the panels.
I absolutely love this system. A major game changer for intstalling pv on an rv roof. You had me laughing about the powder coating. It's always great to include the wife in the decisions, all the decisions. LOL. But brother, galvanized, unpainted struts will outlast several human lifetimes being in any weather 24/7.
Except for one thing, Jack. Dissimilar metals can cause some real corrosion issues over time. Unistrut is steel. Yes, it's galvanized. That's great. But having aluminum angle in direct contact with the strut steel will cause corrosion. Water and accumulated snow will speed up the corrosion. That is, unless you powder-coat either the unistrut and/or the aluminum. So... his wife is a genius. LOL
easy fix.
use galvanized angles. also power coated.
but i would like to here how this has held up to years, and cyclone winds, snow,etc.
One issue he avoids with the powder coating is the stans and streaks that come from when water interacts with metal as they leach off that original coating.. I have seen several campers that have this at the summer camp park lots that make fairly new units look old like leaf tannin staining.. He did say it was close to overkill but his choice so you do you..
The Best idea I have seen yet for attaching solar to the roof. Great job buddy!!!!
This is great! This is almost exactly the sort of set up i was trying to design in my head in a theoretical manner due to not having yet bought a trailer ! But you are spot on target for the same factors I'm aiming for, the adaptability ( rather than using the term flexible cause its not) of the struts & the cooler air flow system & accessibility & ease of squeegee access thanks to being able to tilt them, meaning up, angle them, down, use my full size picnic table to stand on & professional extension handled tools, move the table once after washing & drying , finish up. Take a rest , back up, reset angle, back down! I'm somewhat handicapped & need a set up that allows me to supervise whomever I'll be paying to do this so it needs a very simple system ! Lol & I'll be including a clip on soapy h2o deflector so it wont filthify ( not a word? Idc! Its what i mean!) the trailer in the process of the cleaning . I intend to be generous with the coiled stretchy cables i intend to use to allow the panels to be lifted without putting strain & use simple releasable connectors so if the panels need to be off the trailer for sun to be able to hit directly, it should be easy to do! I hope!
Great idea... Preparing to do a solar project for my truck camper....glad I found this! Thank you!
Thank you for showing how to put these in and which part to use to attach the solar panels to the roof. I'm going to attach the super struts to a suv's roof rack and I was trying to figure out how to connect it all - looking at the choices in the hardware store was a bit overwhelming so your video helps with the brackets too as I ordered a set of those too - I was thinking of attaching them evenly with the struts, using the brackets but loose the ability to move the panels as easily so it's good to know I can attach the panels without the brackets if I want to.
Awesome! Glad it was helpful. Good luck with your system.
SUGGESTION: Cover those exposed wires on your roof with a UV protected shielding; so that they last longer.
suggestion for material?
Great video. Thank you from Colorado.
Good Point. That PV rated wire will only last a couple 100 years in the sun...
Do you have a video of how are you attach the strut channels?
Excellent method. How are panels secured to prevent theft? Padlocks no longer prevent.
I use plastic zip ties to the roof rack. I drilled holes through the aluminum frame of the solar panels. I can tie them on with parachute shroud too.
Maybe I missed it but, how did he attach the strut channel top the roof? My fear is those panels coming off while going down the road.
Thank you very much for 2 great videos. Absolutely awesome.
I did go in and read comments regarding how you attached the rails to your roof as you really never covered this subject. I have seen where a person was just using a double sided tape. That made me nervous.
But I found the answer, thank you again.
I would love to know this answer too. Did you screw the uni-strut? If you are only using double sided tape, you are really only attaching to the roof membrane.
Just found this video! Excellent idea, and explanation, thank you for sharing. Epoxy appliance paint holds up well outdoors. You might think about using rivet nuts on your angle pieces that hold up the panel when tilted instead of the wing nuts and washers. It is less parts to lose and it would make for faster set up/tear down.
Beautiful mountains in the background. Thanks for video Ron.
Wanted to thank you for sharing this because I am just now getting ready to install two 200 watt panels on top of our Coachman Orion RV. I just need to find a source for all of the hardware (strut channel and angle mount brackets) then I'll go to work with the installation; thinking Lowe's or Home Depot will have what I need. Everything about your installation is perfect to include having a way to tilt the panels towards the sun once you are at your camp site or even at home.
Disregard the request for where to buy the strut - found it below the video. Just ordered the the off-grid solar panel mounts a minute ago.
That’s what I used on my Ford Transit Van. Very easy to install on the van. The cross braces can be moved anywhere on the rails which makes it easy to install any size panels. The Unistrut/Superstrut rails cost about $20 each at Home Depot or Lowe’s. They are 10 feet long. Many different fittings are available. Mine have been on the roof for over three years with no sign of rust or corrosion. I have 10ft rails running down both sides. I used four cross rails that are about 5 ½ ft long. To adjust the height to clear the roof just use “L” brackets on the main rails. No holes need to be drilled on a Transit Van since the bolt holes are pre-installed. Just remove the rubber caps. The nuts and bolts for assembly come in three sizes, ¼, ⅜ or ½ inch. I used ⅜ but that is really overkill. I used ¼ “ on my cargo trailer and I think that is big enough.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing how you did it.
what gauge strut did you use? how beefy is the strut going across the van, can you put a deck up there to sit on? Wondering if they would hold that weight?
Thanks for that info, I’ll check for bolt holes on my transit 350!
I plan on installing more panels soon on my Lance 1685. The original owner had a factory installed 100 watt panel using typical brackets spaced about 8" apart. Obviously they weren't intending to hit cross members. I'll probably do the same but will be getting more detail on roof construction first so at least I know what i've done. Having watched multiple videos regarding panel install I really appreciate the effort put into this important subject from all. So, thank you for adding your design and construction information.
Thanks and I'm glad you found the video helpful.
I have posted some follow up videos that might answer more of your questions. ( ruclips.net/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/видео.html )
@@travelnewtrails8232 I'll check them out tonight-thanks.
For improved aerodynamics thus fuel savings and maybe even some noise reduction might I suggest a wind deflector wing at the front edge of the camper..
GREAT video!!!! Just came across your video today. Picking up a new Winnebago Micro Minnie 2108 this week and was agonizing on how to mount my solar panels to the roof. Thanks for making my day!!!!!!
Glad I could help!
Very interesting video. Good job! In case you haven't noticed, the mountain views from your house are REDICULOUS!!! Nice hat, by the way! Tony has one just like it. We're looking forward to future videos. Say hi to the fam, especially "The Boy". Happy camping & safe travels! Tony & Monica's Plan B, Michigan
Yes, we do notice our view, though probably not as often as we should. It’s nice to be reminded of how good we have it from time to time. ;-)
This video was really helpful, thank you! I have a 2017 rockwood mini lite 1905s. I understand there are only cross members around the AC opening. Should I be trying to mount at least one side of the strut channel close enough to the roof edge that I catch some of the metal framing? I assume it's hopefully okay on the inner strut channel to just screw down to the laminated roof materials. I love the strut channel method you're showcasing here, I just was not sure about the method for attaching the channel, since the roof does not really have any cross members. Any help on this is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
I just found your video and WOW, what an awesome way to mount anything to the roof of a trailer! I will be doing this to my 8x16 toyhauler this next spring. I see adding a rack for kayaks and solar panels. I will be making my panels tiltable too. Thanks for sharing, R
Good advice, thanks for the video. I like the ability to angle the panels.
Awesome setup, would love to do this with a single frame connecting all the panels and about 3 linear actuators to tilt them automatically. Would have to come up with some some sort of locking system if i don't want to get up there and unlock the frame every time. To the drawing board. Thank for the inspiration.
I though the same thing at first. Then after I got everything installed to the strut channel I saw that due to the compound curvature of the roof I wasn't able to lift the panels together because they would bind. If you could create a "rack" from the strut channel that would even out all of the curves it would probably work. That would probably require floating the channel off the roof which add extra height and weight to the system and would direct all forces applied to the system to only the points where it attached to the roof rather than spreading the forces evenly across the roof along the entire length of the strut channel segments. Part of the challenge is that RV roof probably aren't been designed with the idea that stuff will be mounted to the top of them.
Very interesting way of mounting solar panels. However, I am worried about how to secure the strut channel to the roof of our Class A. Our RV has almost no wood in the roof, except a 1/4" luaun plywood, which wouldn't hold a screw. The rest is various foam layers designed for insulation. There is an alluminum super structure built in, but how could I find the cross bars hidden in the roof? Now, I have heard about a special double-sided tape which I could imagine to put under the strut channel. What do you think about this?
Most valuable video I’ve found on attaching solar. Thanks for this video.
Glad it was helpful!
I would like to see how you attached the strut channels
Me too
Yeah, I should have probably covered that better. I do show it in the video but not as well as I could have. The basics are that I used the heavy duty screw bolts that came with the panel mounts to attach the strut channel to the roof. I obtained a roof plan for my rig from my RV dealer to inform me where to drive the screws (though it is not hard to figure out where they are if you can't get a roof plan). I drove the screws through the slots in the bottom of the strut channel. Before driving the screws I put down a large blob of LAP sealant then drove the screw through the sealant and then put another large blob of LAP sealant on top of the screw head to seal everything really well.
I hope this helps. Knowing this when you go back as re-watch the video it might be clearer.
Check out my followup videos ( ruclips.net/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/видео.html ). They have more details and answer a lot of the questions asked in the comments.
WE all have own ideas What is best, and I would agree that This way is a good one …. BUT,
“L” channel could do the same thing 😮 at HALF the weight and cost 💲
I was curious about your roof penetrations: how many did you do and how did you seal it so that you won’t have leaks?
butyl tape and/or Dicor self leveling lap sealant.
Interesting approach. What type of lag bolts/hardware did you use to fasten the strut to your roof??
I wanted to know that as well.
We used Super Struts with kone nuts, and #14 Stainless steel screws and 1 1/2 washers thru the strut rails into the rafters. Also put Silkaflex at the washers.
Agree. I didn't see the answer.
Nicely done
Ha ha ha lag bolts Ha Ha Ha
❤’d your message…. Thank for sharing…. I just bought a 2021 Jayco Eagle 40 foot travel trailer 332CBOK. I just bought 348 V batteries rack style melt and plan on doing 120V dual inverters for 50 amp off grid performance. where did you get your tilt brackets?
This is a brilliant idea. By being able to adjust the position of the panels, its possible to avoid shade.
However, the wire would have to be in some kind of weather resistant flexible conduit.
The wire is rated for external use. Also it is run under the panels where ever possible to minimize its exposure to the sun.
Good job! I was thinking about these shallow unistrut rails. I have seen similar setup before, but didn't pay close attention his the lifting is done. I see there are two L shape profiles. Rails are the way to go. Drilling dozens of holes in roof is sloppy and asking for troubles ;)
Great video thanks do you where l bay this materials ?
How did you mount those strut channels to the roof? note: My antivirus software will not allow me to go to your links, just saying.
I have posted some followup videos that answer your questions. ( ruclips.net/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/видео.html )
@@travelnewtrails8232 OK thanks.
Thank you for asking that. I can’t believe he didn’t mention that in this video. Not sure if that was intentional or he just likes to hear himself talk a lot. So frustrating.
@@barryholiday8998 You're welcome.
@@barryholiday8998 yes he does
What kind of bolt did you use to fasten the unistrut to the RV roof portion? cool set up. I'm looking to do something similar.
Good Morning. I have my Channel and two solar panels. The channel is 10ft an the Solar panel is 64in. that is 4in longer than half the channel. So I was thing two cut the panel in half so only 2 in over on each end. I was going to use double back tape to the channel and also use the # RN-2520-05 Rubber nuts threaded inserts 1/4 - 20 Thread . What are your thoughts on this verses 4in over hand on the ends on a one pace channel. Thank you again for your help. Jack
Thank you for the information. I want to do my install the same way. Hopefully I can get the roof layout for my rv. Question 1. Do you need to use any caulking of any sort when screwing the struts down? I have never screwed anything to my roof before.
Hello, Great Idea !! I found the unistrut that I'm going to use but your links are not valid anymore, So I'm Wondering Where Did the Angle Brackets with slots and holes Come from and What is it Called ??
Can't Find anything that Resembles your brackets. Anyone Else That's Familiar with those brackets with the slots and holes it would be appreciated !!
Thanks Greg
I went with the aluminum strut channels with the powder coating for the extra layer of rust protection, I wasn't biting on the extended warranty though
Watch botah your videos on mounting panels. Question is , Can you tilt both ways?
this is wonderful. you solved the tilt issue. thank you!
Great video! But what about water run off to follow the roof angle to each side?
I would suggest adding a couple brass washer under the bottom of the strut channel at channels mounting point, then the water could flow underneath the channels.
Actually water drainage is not a problem. Water just flows forward or aft and then to the sides and off.
Adding "risers" under the strut channel could potentially cause structural issues. Having the channel flush against the roof allows for all of the forces applied to the channel to be equally distributed and transferred to the roof along the full length of the strut channel segments rather than only on the "risers". It also lessens the stress on the individual screws that attach the channel to the roof. Remember that RV roofs are not really designed to have stuff attached to them, especially at focused points.
I've come to this late but HOW DID YOU ATTACH THE STRUT CHANNELS TO THE ROOF??? Screws or what?
I like it but those links you posted are dead.... Where can you get those tilt brackets?
Do you have a video on how you installed your solar from start to finish? Great video!
Hi Don. Thanks!
I started out recording everything but it was a beast to try to edit. I couldn't get the flow and timeline to work out so I just did this instead.
@@travelnewtrails8232 you’re thinking too hard just put it up f$&k the editing.
Do you have pictures or video of how you attached the Unistrut to the roof?
I think it’s a great idea!! Thanks for making the video!!
Great info. I may have missed it, but could you tell me how you attached the superstrut to your roof?
bolted into roof truss
that is a fantastic idea, using the taller struts will allow me to run the wiring in the strut channel.
Maybe I missed it... but how did you attach the strut to the roof!!!
question could you use some kind of spacer that would keep Unistrut to keep from holding water?
What size diameter & length bolts did you use for mounting the angle brackets to the nylon unistrut nuts?
Great video with a lot of good information I am fixing to start building a cargo trailer. I am just waiting on the delivery now so I will definitely be using this idea for my panels and I will look forward to looking at your other videos
Real easy to install on a cargo trailer.
Thanks! Good luck on your install.
i know this is a old video but i just wanted to know how you installed the strut channel to the roof did you use eterabond tape
is there a problem with water run off/ puddling on the strut Chanel? I like the idea
Use a wide spacer (a few stacked stainless washers maybe) under the strut at each fastener to lift it off the surface is what i would do
Actually no, there doesn't seem to be any issues with drainage. The water seems to drain froward and aft and then to the sides, still flowing off the roof in the spouts that are attached. I have been in some real downpours as well and the drainage seemed fine.
Putting spacers/risers under the channel might be less desirable structurally speaking because when the channel is flush with the roof any forces applied to the strut channel will be evenly distributed across the roof along the entire length of the channel segments rather than only on the risers where it is attached to the roof. I'm not sure RV roofs are designed with the idea of hard attachment points to take that stress not to mention the screws used to attach the strut channel to the roof.
You have good information. I have a box van that I am converting into a RV. My solar panels are attached to unistrut that I bolted on top of a ladder rack. As you pointed out, most solar panels that I see are mounted too close to the roof. My Grape Solar panels recommended a minimum of four inches clearance between the back face and the roof. I chose the hot dipped galvanized finish, it offers better weather protection than the gold zinc coated unistrut but is less expensive than stainless steel unistrut. If my unistrut was in direct contact with my roof, I probably would have done the same thing you did by coating zinc unistrut. Pregalvanized is not galvanized.
Dam you gave me the key to my Casita roof top solar build. I will need to have the una strut raised abut 17 inches. off the location where the support locations on a fiberglass rv that has been refereed to as an egg.
Great idea. My big question is how exactly did you attach the struts to the roof so they will not blow off during driving? How well (speeds) have they held up?
Can you do a video for this??
The strut channel is screwed into the roof into the roof trusses every 2nd or 3rd truss. It is attached VERY securely. Driving freeway speeds it not an issue and neither are high winds. I have been in high winds a few times (across Kansas, between Las Vegan and Mesquite NV, etc) and they are attached as securely now as the day I installed them.
I briefly cover how they were attached in the video but to give a more detailed review, I first got a roof plan for my rig from my dealer so I would know where the roof trusses were. If you can't het a roof plan it is not difficult to discover their locations though. I screwed the channel to the roof into the roof trusses by first putting a generous blob of LAP sealant down, screwing though it and then putting another generous blob on to to make sure it was sealed.
Thank you!!!! We're in the middle of our cargo trailer build and have been trying to figure out how to get the solar panels to tilt. Perfect plan!! I'm grateful for the information. Saving the video for our build 😊
Awesome! Good luck with your build.
Nice build, did you consider 80/20 T-Slot aluminum? With the slot bolts would just slide within the channel, the aluminum won't rust and would not need to be power coated. Just a thought......
80/20 Is my go-to material for this kind of thing. Extremely durable, lightweight, and a seemingly endless number of accessories available including wire/cable management.
Interesting idea however I think the strut channel is a little more straight forward to work with for this application though. You don't have to drill any holes to attach it to the roof like you would with 80/20 because you just screw/bolt through the existing holes. The strut channel cone nuts are easier to place and move when you already have stuff attached to the channel because they can be placed without needing to slide them in from the end (which could be blocked if you already have stuff attached). They make strut channel in aluminum as well so that addresses the weight issue however it is almost 2x as expensive as the steel. After powder coat the aluminum and the steel come out to about the same price. On my next install I am leaning toward the aluminum strut channel if I can source it quickly/cheaply enough.
No questions about install but I love the view of the beautiful mountains from your driveway where are you at thanks
Love you idea. this is the greatest thing going for me on my installation , can't wait to start I will be watching your videos over and over thanks
Thanks and good luck!
How did you attach the strut channels to your roof? Did you drill holes?
We used unistrut at work before i retired. Thanks for sharing your system. I need to know closer the parts you used to mount the panels to the strut. Thanks again it's a lot more versatile than what I had planned.
I included links to all of the components I used in the video description.
How do you install the strut channels on the the roof to begin with before mount the angle brackets? Thanks again!
HI Don. I used the screw bolts that came with the angle brackets to attach the channel to the roof along with Dicor to make sure everything is sealed. See my 2 followup videos where I go into more detail and answer common questions I got in the comments of this video.
Hi, I’m thinking of putting a solar panel on my camper. Does the panel creates a lot of drag and noise while driving in the highway? Thanks!
Super video! I have been going round and round debating my install because I have so many challenges and must maximise the limited space I have. I will be living 100% off-grid, through winter, in a 4 season rig tested to 0 degrees. No grid power option. The channel was the epiphany! I can get 8 250w Sunpower panels on now, but still want to work out 4 more. Once the 8 are on, this channel idea gives me the flexibility to play with scissor-deployment, or slides, or something from on top or beneath the already mounted ones. Thanks for this! Really simplifies things and is getting me moving forward. I have limited time to build this. I'll have 3kw collection and 13kw storage. Better be enough! :-)
Hi William. Thanks for the comment. Sounds like you have a fun project ahead of you. Glad I was able to provide some inspiration. good luck!
Please go into detail on the hinged side of your install. Type of hinge and I couldn't tell if you used uni strut on that side.
Hi Glenn.
There are two rows of strut channel per row of panels. The tilt mount attach to the strut on both ends. The tilt mounts can actually tilt either way (inboard or outboard). Here is the link to the tilt mounts: tinyurl.com/ya56r88w . Notice how each end has a knob (with a wing nut on the opposite side) and the vertical piece can be moved to any set of hols to change the angle of the panel.
Hi Glenn. I have posted some followup views that might answer your question ( ruclips.net/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/видео.html ). Check them out.
I love the system for installation you have, But, That panel mount is for up to a 120 Watt Panel I learned. It fits my 200W panels but has two different lengths of angle rails 22" and 28". When installing the 200W panel you can't get your mitts on the knobs when the panels are lowered and mounted end to end.
Wow! Brillant !
I totally agree this is the BEST way to install solar.
Hi Tucker! Thanks for the comment and I'm glad you liked it.